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About Google Book Search Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web at|http: //books .google .com/I H* 1 s 4 \ J'w ••< Political Divisions lAJlUUuli ... ... «■• ... '•.. ..I X ttrAttuQ ... •.• ... .•• ... >•■ X SliUgX XXlBBaf .•• ..• .•• .<. ... ..I JVftHOglMM ••• ... »•• •■• ... •■< tJshTorf&n Aksil Kdch& Ktirla Kaduihahr Kakn&ks Turf&n Lob Mar&lb4Bhi Dol&n Sirikol Kirghiz of Al&t&gh and P&mir Pokhplilnk of Mtizt^gh Population Climate and Seasons Salubrity Natural Productions AniTYlftl Vegetable Mineral Industrial productions ... Agriculture ' J ' • . .» • * 4 • • • * • ■ * J*':.. • • # *- - ■> " - • V • • •» - • < « 11,^ « ■* « • V • • • 23 i6. 24 »5. t6. ib. 26 t6. t6. 26 29 30 31 32 34 36 38 41 42 43 44 45 46 49 61 64 ib. 66 67 61 62 63 66 69 ib. 74 76 76 ib. [ u ] MannfBctureB neis and CastomB ... Marriage Birth ... Circumcision EdncatJon Games and Amusemetite Etiquette Occupation! Women Dresa and OmuneDto Deatii Funeral Pood Habitations tAucpiage ... ,», rmuent of the country under the Cliinese rnment of Slabghar under the Amir King ... and Policy ^.. nistration of Government niatration of joatjce ihmeut« iouB InstitationB ... .,. •..■.•; .-. :■:;■■.: : CHAPTEB III. .ryofKfahgi»('l»?'Dt.Iteilfew':.V ... ... ... 106 CHAPTER IV. itive of expedition to Chi^kn] and the Tian Shin Bange by Lieutenants-Colonel Gordon 214 CHAPTER V. itive of expedition to ManUbfehl by Ca^tun Biddnlph CHAPTEB VI. >r the Fimfr to Walcin by Lieutenant-Cobnel Gordon CHAPTER VII. atire of gct^raphioal eiptoratiomi made by Captain Trotter, R.E., and his Auistant* [ iii ] •f Page. Geographical Appendix — Section A. Latitudee ... ... ... ... ... ... 295 R Longitudes ... ... ... ... ... ... 327 \j» xieiguXs ... ... ... ... ... •(, Ov V n D. Alphabetical list of latitudes, longitudes and heights ... ... ... 361 „ E. Magnetic observations ... ... ... ... ... 369 „ F. Meteorological observations ... ... ... ... ... 373 ff \i» JKOUteS ... ... ... ... ... ... ..« 4lJI/ CHAPTEB VIII. Geological notes by the late Dr. StoUczka ... ... ... ... ... 460 CHAPTEB IX. Commerce by Capt. Chapman ••• ... ... ... ... ... 474 « CHAPTEB X. On Photography by Captain Chapman ... ... ... ... ... 491 CHAPTEB XL Memorandum on Sheep carrying by Captain Biddulph ... ... ... ... 492 CHAPTEB XIL Memorandum on Money, weights, and measures by Dr. Bellew ... ... ... 494 CHAPTEB XIIL The Calendar ... ... ... ... ... ... .•• 612 • CHAPTEB XIV. Becordof Meteorological Observations by Dr. Bellew ... ... ... ... 613 CHAPTEB XV. Vocabulary by Dr. Bellew and Captain Biddulph ... ... ... ... 634 LIST OF NEGATIVES, TAKEN BY CAPTAIN E. F. CHAPMAN, ON THE EXPEDITION TO YABEUND, 1873-74. CAPTAIN CHAPMAN'S SERIES. No. 1 Lama Tnru, Buddhist Mon&steiy and Chortens. 2 Leh, the Capital of Ladak, View of the Bazar and Palace. 3 The IndoB Valley from Leh, Eln. 11,500 feet, View from Joint CommiBsioner's Garden. 4 The Ex. Bsja of Ladak and family. 5 The Nubra Valley from Panamik, looking S. E. Buddhist Chortens in the foreground. 6 Buddhist temple at Panamik, Gods of the Buddhists. 1 Chakna Dnrge. 2 Sangias Shukia Tuba. 3 Pakpa Chingre Zik. 4 Dekhna Earpo, goddess. 7 Crossing the Sasser Pass, Break&st above Tooti Aylak, elevation 16,300 feet. 8 Camp at Shahidulla Khwqja, the frontier outpost of Tarkund Territory towards Kashmir, 22nd October 1873. 9 Men of the Pakpoo tribe living in the Valleys bordering that of the Tisnaf river. 10 Group of Natives of Kargullik, November 1873. 11 Street Hawkers in the square of the Mess Boom of the British Embassy in Yarkund, November 1873. 12 Street Hawkers, Tarkund. 13 Ditto ditto. 14 Ditto ditto. 15 Flour Cleaner and Oil Sellers. 16 Verandah of interior Court yard of the Urda of the Dadkhwah of Tarkund, shewing the HaU of Audience. 17 Guard of Artillery Sirbaz, and group of officers assembled in the Court yard of the Urda of the Dadkhwah of Yarkund. 18 Soldiers from Aksu. 19 Soldiers from Eashghar. 20 Players on Longhom and Mir-i-Shub. 21 Tarkundis. 22 The Pamir Mountains from Yangi Hissar and the Tagharma Peak. 23 Kirghiz Felt (Akoe) occupied by officers of the mission at Yangi Hissar. 24 Soap, Tape, Oil and Sweetmeat Sellers of Yarkund. 25 Coppersmiths manufacturing water vessels. 26 Bootmaker, Bread seller and Cotton deaner. 27 The Fortune-teller. 28 Derwishes, professional beggars. 29 The Forge. 30 Cotton Spinning. 31 Opium Smokers. 32 Andijani and Child by a Yarkund Woman. ( 2 ) No. 33 Cradle Scene, Tangi Hissar. 34 Children and Toy, Tangi Hissar. 35 Presents made to the Amir of Kasfaghar in the name of Her Migesty the Queen, and of His Excellency the Viceroy. 36 Yuz-bashi, Paujabashi, and Dah-bashi, at attention. 37 Oves Polii Lyre homed Antelope, frozen specimens. 38 Present of game and fruit in Eashghar. 39 Female Patients attending the Embassy Hospital, January 1874. 40 Bhokara and Khokandi Merchants. 41 Shrine of Sultan Satuk Bogra Khan at Artush, North of Eiashgar. 42 Ditto ditto ditto. 43 Karawal (Frontier outpost), at Tangi Tar in the Thian Shan 60 miles N. of Kashgar. 44 Group at Kalti Aylak in the Artush District. 46 Moosa Ehwoja, Son of the Hakim of Artush, with hawks. \ REPORT OF A MISSION TO YARKUND IN 1873, (7NDBB COMMAND OF SIR T. D. FORSYTH, K.C.S.I., C.B., BENGAL CIYIIi SEKVICK. CHAPTER L When His Excellency the Viceroy and Grovemor-General in Council was pleased to appoint me to condnct a mission to Yarkand for the purpose of concluding a commercial Treaty with His Highness the Amir of Yarkand and Kashghar^ I was instructed to endeavour to obtain the fullest and most precise information on every subject^ connected with the condition^ resources^ history^ geography^ and trade of Yarkand and the neighbouring countries. In eariying out these instructions^ I have had the advantage of the valuable aid of the staff of officers appointed to accompany me. The History of Eastern Turkestan contained in the following pages has been carefully compiled by Dr. W. H. Bellew, C.S.I., from many Persian and Turki manuscripts^ which were procured in the country^ and the description of tiie people^ their manners and customs^ and of the country generally^ is the result of enquiries made by him and all the other members of the Mission. Captain Trotter^ R.E.^ has given a preliminary report^ containing the general results of his explorations and observations which will be read with interest^ but we may expect at some later period the publication of a much fuller work^ when his calculations and observations have been carefully worked out. In the chapter on geography^ Lieutenant-Colonel Gordon^ C.S.I.^ and Captains Chapman and Biddulph are also associated with Captain Trotter^ and Lieutenant-Colonel Gordon^s account of his visit to Chakmak and Wakhan^ and Captain Biddulph's account of his visit to the Passes on the,Hindii-kush, will be found specially interesting. The statistics of trade and all other information now put forward regarding the commerce and manufactures ^f the country have been carefully collected by Captain Chapman. Science has much to regret in the untimely loss of our much lamented friend^ Dr. F. Stoliczka^ but what notes and memoranda he left in a completed form will be found embodied here^ and arrangements are in progress for giving to the world the result of his labor in the collection of natural history and other specimens. I wish prominently to record my acknowledgment to Colonel Yule^ C.B.^ who^ with generous kindness^ supplied me with all the information he possessed regarding the countries we were about to visits and who^ from time to time^ sent me most valuable suggestions as to the enquiries we should make. As the success of an expedition such as this^ depended greatly on the preliminary arrange- ments^ and the provision made for all contingencies, it may not be uninteresting to go into the subject in some detail. The staff of officers and subordinates placed at my disposal consisted of ^ Lieutenant-Colonel T. E. Gordon, C.S.I., B.S.C., second in command. Dr. Bellew, C.S.I., Sui^on-Major. Captain Chapman, R.A., Secretary to the Yarkand Mission. Captain Trotter, B.E. Captain Biddulph, 19th Hussars, A.D.C. to His Excellency the Viceroy. Dr. Stoliczka, Ph. Dr. Ressaidar Mahomed Afzul Khan, Xlth Bengal Lancers. Ibrahim Khan, Inspector, Punjab Police. Tara Sing, Treasurer, and in charge of mule train. Faiz Buksh, Moonshee. Asmat Ali, Native Doctor and Assistant to Dr. Bellew. a i ( 2 ) Corporal Bhind^ Her Majesty's 92nd Gordon Highlanders^ Camp Sergeant and Clerk. Jemadar Siffat Khan^ in charge of escort furnished by the Corps of Guides which consisted of — 10 Sowars^ 1 Naick^ and 10 Sepoys. Lieutenant-Colonel Gordon as second in command had superior charge of all camp arrange- ments^ and issued the necessary orders for daily routine^ the entire control of the escort and ammunition was in his hands. He also commanded sundry separate expeditions. Dr. Bellew had charge of all medical arrangements and was President of the staff mess. Captain Chapman was appointed Secretary to the Mission^ and had charge of the mule equipment^ camp equipage^ treasure chesty and postal arrangements. Captain Biddulph had charge of the Toshakhana when he was with the head-quarters of the Mission^ it being placed under Captain Chapman's care at other times. He commanded the advance party to ShahiduUa^ and was employed on a separate expedition to Maralbashi^ and accompanied Lieutenant-Colonel Gordon to Wakhan. _ * Captain Trotter and Dr. Stoliczka had charge of their special departments. Of the native Government employes selected to serve^ Bessaidar Mahomed Afzul Khan^ 11th Bengal Lancers^ was appointed Attache in charge of the native portion of the camp^ Ibrahim Khan^ Inspector of Police^ was another Attachi^ and was employed on special duty. Abdool Subhan^ Assistant Surveyor^ attached to the Survey Department^ assisted Captain Trotter^ and conducted separately an exploration of Shignan^ returning by Badakshan and Cabul. Colonel Walker^ B.E.^ Superintendent G. T. S.^ further placed at my disposal seven of the Survey Pundits. Experience having shown the necessity for rendering the expedition independent in the matter of carriage^ one hundred mules of a very fair stamp were purchased^ through the agency of Tara Sing^ at a moderate price. These were equipped with saddles nearly resembling those of the Otago pattern used in Abyssinia^ which were made in the Government workshops at Cawnpoor^ mule trunks of a special pattern being supplied with them. The saddles and trunks were productions that would be considered highly creditable to any manu- factory^ and proved most serviceable. As some delay occurred in the return of Syud Takub Khan^ the Yarkand Envoy^ from Constantinople^ it was thought advisable to send an advance party to examine carefully the routes between Leh and ShahiduUa. Accordingly on the 15th July 1878^ Captains Biddulph and Trotter and Dr. Stoliczka left Murree and journeyed to ShahiduUa. The head-quarters party left on 19th July^ but halted for some time at Srinuggur till I joined them^ when we all proceeded to Leh which we reached on the 20th September. Here^ in addition to what is usually known as warm clothings each follower received fur socks^ leggings^ boots^ and a chogah lined with sheep-skin^ a warm cap covering the ears^ and thick gloves^ besides a good felt and blankets. Meat and tea formed part of the daily ration^ and the whole were comfort- ably sheltered in tents. The road as far as Leh is too well trodden to require any description here. The route taken by the advance party by the Charghchemo Valley is suflSciently well detailed in the Geographical chapter^ and I need only here remark that the inclemency of the season was such as to prevent anything like an extensive exploration^ and in fact its effects were speedily visible on our lamented companion Dr. Stoliczka. However^ though the hardships undergone by this advance party deserve passing mention^ there is not much loss to geographical science to record^ for the route taken by them had been fully examined and reported on^ first by that intrepid but unfortunate traveller Mr. Hayward^ and afterwards by Dr. Cayley, and by the first expedition to Yarkand in 1870. Captain Trotter and Dr. Stoliczka rejoined our camp at Aktagh on the 18th October^ whilst Captain Biddulph pursued his enquiries down the Karakash Biver and met us at ShahiduUa on the 18th October. ( 3 ) If space permitted^ it might be interesting to give a detailed account of a journey to Shahidolla from Leh over the highest passes in the world. Suffice it however to say that the journey of 240 miles was accomplished in 15 marches, with no other accident than the loss of eight baggage animals^ and this with 800 souls and 400 animals in camp. The Glacier Pass of the Sasser^ and the icy region of the Shy ok Valley and the Karakorum Pass were fortunately crossed without snow^ which however attacked us on the northern side^ and accom- panied with an eager nipping air added much to the discomfort inseparable from travelling sustained for many days at an elevation varying from 15,000 to 18,000 feet. Some idea of the cold may be formed from the fact that our minimum thermometer recorded a temperature of 15° below zero inside a tent^ whilst in Captain Biddulph's camp it descended to 26° below zero in the open air. At ShahiduUa we were met by Yuzbashi Mahomed Zareef Khan, a Captain of the Amir's army^ who had been deputed with some soldiers to await our arrival, and who gave us a hearty welcome. Here too we were joined by Ibrahim Khan, whom I had sent ahead to Yarkand to report our approach. After a halt of four days at ShahiduUa, during which time Captain Trotter and his subordinates explored the surrounding country, and Drs. Stoliczka and Bellew paid a visit to the jade mines at Balakchi, Lieutenant-Colonel Gordon moved on with the chief part of the camp tx> Sanju, the nearest village in the Yarkand plain, and Syud Yakub Khan joining us two days after we followed over the Grim Pass. This Pass was not crossed without great difficulty owing to a fresh fall of snow. The ascent for the last 100 feet to the summit was up a wall of ice. The Kirghiz who had met us at ShahiduUa, their farthest point, rendered great assistance in roughing the ice with pickaxes, laying down felts, and dragging the animals up. It was impossible for men or beasts to keep a firm footing on the icy zigzags, and many were precipitated over the snowy sides some hundreds of feet below. The loss amounted to eight mules and three ponies, none of the horses belonging to the Cavalry escort being in the nimiber of casualties. When we reached Sanju on the 30th October, we found the country just beginning to put on its wintry appearance. The yeUow look of the leaves and the frosty ground reminded us of European lands. Here we were met by a special messenger bearing a letter of welcome from the Atalik Ghazi. Another letter came at the same time to Syud Yakub Khan, congratulating him on the success of his mission to Constantinople. I mention this to notice the manner in which such letters are received. The recipient taking it in both hands raises the letter to his fore» head, and stands with his face in the direction whence it was sent, while he reads it most respc^uUy. He then presses the seal upon both eyes, and having folded it up, places it in his turban. This is a literal fulfilment of the Persian saying, " on my head and eyes'' and seems to have been a custom in Eastern Turkestan from a very early time.*^ After a halt of two days at Sanju we resumed our march towards Yarkand on the 2nd November crossing low ranges, long flats, and stony desert here and there at long intervals intersected with streams from the mountains, on the sides of which and wherever water- courses could be carried signs of cultivations were abundant. On the 5th November we reached Kargalik, the first place of importance we had seen, and were struck by the signs of prosperity and civilization exhibited to us at every turn. An eating-house^ with its clean table and forms and piles of China plates and bowls, at once took us back across the seas to the recollectioif of many a country restaurant in France. We were conducted through the bazaar to quarters built expressly for our accom- modation ; much to our gratification we found them far superior to anything we expected to find in the country, and our surprise at the neatness of the carpentry and clean regularity of the walls was surpassed by the comfort of the apartments and their good though somewhat scanty furniture. Thick felts and handsome carpets from Khoten covered the floors, and high backed chairs but no tables were provided. Fire-places, like our own, warmed the rooms without filling them with smoke, roof ventilators completing our requirements. The quarters for * In BemoBEt's History of Ehoten this is alluded to as a ciutom in the 6ih oentory. Qoand qaelqu'nn reooit ana Icttre, il la met d'abord sur sa tdte aTaot de la d^aeheter, p. 17. t k t ( i ) onrselves were enclosed within walls and ranged on two opposite sides. A third eide was covered iti by a raised verandah through which were doore leading to a spacions kitchen and outnoffices. In another quadrangle was an open court and covered etables, with mangers for one hundred horses. Altogether the arrangements were very good, and as we found in our subsequent travels similar accommodation at nearly all the chief halting places, this detailed description will answer for all. I maj here also notice the system of hospitality which is such a marked feature in Eastern Turkestan. It is said that in England we never can transact business satisfactorily without dining over it, but here in the East it seems as if good Kving and perpetually enter- taining one's guests were the chief end of life. The dastarkhwan (literally table cloth) generally a gandy chintz-lined coverlet is spread at each village of any size, under some clump of trees or, if in winter, in a house, where a good blazing fire offers a warm welcome, and the guests are invited to dismount; cups of hot tea are handed round, and then a number of trays varying from 20 or 30 to 100 laden with fruit, delicious bread, and sweets and cooked meats are brought in. No matter what be the hour of the day, or how frequently similar halts may have been made previously, it is a point of honor for the local magnate to lead the travel- lers to this feast, and it is equally a point of honor for the traveller to show his politeness even at the risk of ruining his digestion, by drinking numberless cups of tea and dipping bis hands into the steaming dish. One part of their customs struck us with surprise and unfeigned pleasure ; be the host Turk or British, he and bis guests eat alike from the same dish and band food to the surrounding attendants, who are troubled with no scruples of caste to interfere with their hearty appetite. It is the duty of the guest first to break bread and present a portion to bis host. We halted one day at Kargalik, and on the 7th November marched to Posgam 25 miles, most o£ the way across a highly cultivated and populous plain through which fiows the River Tisnaf. This we crossed at about the fourteenth mile, and a little further on came to Yakebamba Bazaar, a considerable village, where as the name implies a market is held every Sunday mostly for the barter of farm produce. Here we alighted for a dastarkhwan at a newly built rest-house, on the same general plan as that at Kargalik, but smaUer. Here too the Turkisb officers,' who had come from Constantinople in the suite of the Atalik's Envoy, made their appearance in military uniform and somewhat puzzled the cunous villagers as to their identity, for their Turkisb is almost as difficult of comprehension to the people here as is tbeir own vernacular in the form we not unfrequently offered it to them. From this place to Posgam and from that on to Yarkand the road lies over a thickly populated country, highly cultivated and freely irrigated by numberless small canals drawn off from the Zarafasban or Yarkand River. We crossed this river at a few miles from Posgam. It was even then a large stream, and in summer is only passable by boat. Beyond the river, at about ten miles from Posgam, we alighted at Zilchak, where some tents and a dastarkhwan had been prepared tor us. Whilst here the Yussawal Bashi or Chamberlain with a party of the Governor's body-guard* arrived with messages of welcome from the Dadkhwab. The dastarkhwan disposed of, we brushed the dust off our uniforms and set out towards Yarkand, five miles distant, in two parties clos^y following each other — the returning Envoy with his Turkish suite and the British Envoy with his staff of officers. As we approached the city, we were met by successive troops of citizens and merchants, who saluted us in a very friendly way, and, joining our cavalcade, soon swelled it to upwards of three hundred horsemen. And so we went on to the city, observing here and there ttat the road had been levelled, holes filled in, pools and puddles covered with earth, and " eyewash" generally put on pretty thick. * The Kuard consulted of 30 men, and their mode of salntation wu somewhat wngalar. Thej came fonrard in batohea of five, and knelt on one knee. Thia appeare to be the tme Eastern Tnrld &Bhion, ibr M. Bemosat in hia Hiatorj of Khot«n aajs— " Quand ila ae recoDtrent ila a'agenotulleut, c^t a dire qa'ila mettent an genon en , ...V —Lama Yuni, Buddhist Monastery and Chortens. 3,— Leh, the Capital of Ladak, View of the Bazar and Palace. ( 5 ) I The crowds lining the road near the city gate were generally very well and warmly clad and behaved with remarkable quietness. The variety of race types was a very marked feature in the general appearance of the multitude^ and next to thij the almost universal preva- lence of goitre. We passed into the city through its main bazaars, and out again^ then across an open space of about a couple of furlongs to a detached fort, the Yangishahr or New Town. Here we were saluted at the gate by the guard and presently found ourselves in the quarters prepared for us. They were the same as those occupied by me on the occasion of my former visits but the accommodation had been increased by the erection of five or six new quarters within the same area. All the rooms were nicely furnished and everything was done to make us comfortable, not to forget the dastarkhwan^ which here grew to ninety-two dishes and trays. The day following we paid a visit to the Dadakhwah, the Governor of this city and district. His palace adjoined our own quarters, and was approached through three courtyards, each with its own guard of matchlockmen, great burly figures, all boots and bundle, for such was the appearance of their forms gathered in about the middle as their flowing ^obes of stark bright patterns were by the loose folds of a waistband. The Dadkhwah^ Mahammad Yunus Jan^ on our approaching his audience chamber, a spacious hall with a gaudily painted roof, the decorations bearing the impress of Khokundi art, came out into the verandah to meet us, and after the usual introduction conducted us up the length of the hall to the cushions ranged at its upper end. After the interchange of the customary compliments and ceremonies, the presents were brought in, admired and examined. The court officials then brought in fruits and sweets, and tea was served round. A brief con- versation then closed the interview and we returned to our quarters. From my former experience of our relations with the people of Yarkand, I was curious and rather anxious to see how we should be treated. Hitherto it had not been the custom to allow foreigners to move about with unrestricted freedom. Messrs. Shaw and Hay ward had been kept close prisoners to their quarters during the whole period of their sojourn in the country, and when the former expedition of 1870 entered the city of Yarkand an attempt was made to prevent the English officers from going out. The most disquieting rumours and sinister . prophesies had been promulgated regarding the reception which awaited this mission, and though we had been able to trace them to their source, still it was just possible that there was some foundation of truth. It was with no small anxiety then that I watched the slightest action of our hosts, and I found it advisable to issue the strictest orders to prevent any sort of offence being given by our followers. We had come provided with every kind of scientific apparatus, but it was more than pro- bable that theodolites, photographic cameras, &c., might be looked on as only instruments of the black art. I therefore enjoined on one and all the utmost caution, and decided that until we reached the royal presence, and had an opportunity of explaining the harmless nature of our scientific instruments, they should not be used. I also gave orders, which were strictly enforced during our whole stay in the country, for a roll-call of all followers to be held twice a day, and none were allowed to be out of camp after half-past 7 p.m., nor were any permitted to go into the bazaars without permission from Ressaidar Afzul Khan, whose duty it was to see that the men were decently dressed and behaved themselves properly. To these precautions and to the sense of being kept under tight discipline, I attribute in a great measure the remarkable freedom from trouble which we enjoyed. The total number of followers was 120, and I am happy to be able to record that, during a period of seven months we were in Xashghar terri- tory, not more than twenty-two punishments were inflicted. Our first appearance in the streets of Yarkand excited the lively curiosity of the inhabit- ants, and the scene was particularly interesting. Entering the city by the Altun or golden gate, we turned to the right and passed down the butcher's street, where, suspended in front of the shops, such as may be seen in a butcher's stall at home, we saw good beef, mutton, yak's and horse flesh, the head or tail of the animal being left attached to the carcase to indicate the kind of meat. ( 6 ) Thence^ passing on through street of shops^ we came to an open chonk or square^ where a crowd of people was collected round two Durweshes^ who sang with not too melodious voice some song which afforded much amusement. From the earliest times all travellers who have Tisited these countries have been impressed with the gay meny character of the people and, though the present ruler has enjoined a more severe demeanour^ there is still much of the old love of gaiety left. We then proceeded through a covered hazaar where all kinds of wares were displayed — here and there China cups and articles of jade^ English and Russian chintzes^ broadcloth horn India^ &c. Taking another turn to the right we found ourselves in what is called the Sh&m or evening bazaar where^ as its name indicates^ crowds of men and women collect every eveniqg round booths and stalls at which boots^ caps^ dresses^ and other articles of daily use are exposed in large quantities for sale. Everywhere the people treated us quite as of themselves^ though of course they collected round us in good humoured curiosity to examine closely the first Europeans they had ever seen. On no single occasion throughout our whole stay in the country did we ever meet with the slightest rudeness or incivility ; no scowling looks nor angry taunts were levelled at us ; on the contrary^ wherever we went we always found people pleased to meet and converse with us. The cloth merchants live in the chief bazaar which is larger and altogether of a superior description^ being covered over as in Cairo or Stambul and the shops presenting a very similar appearance to shops in those cities. Immediately beyond this is the bakers' street^ where every shop is for bread or food of some kind. There was a restaurant which particularly attracted our notice from its extreme cleanliness and the neatness of all its arrangements. In front was the cooking tslh^, with a fire below^ over which a large cauldron was placed ; the steam from this passed through a series of sieves in each one of which was meat or vegetables or other food^ which was thus cooked to a nicety by steam. By the side were the vegetables cut into shreds ready for cookings whilst a man was busy preparing flour for pastry. Inside we saw forms and tables at which the customers sat. I have been in similar restaurants in Stambul, but have seen nothing so clean and tempting as is to be found in Yarkand or Kashghar. In the streets we saw wheel-barrows with trays, on which pates, rolls of bread, fruit and cooked vegetables were hawked about, exactly as apples and pies are sold from carts in the streets of London. The bread rolls are made of the finest white flour and are pleasant to the taste as to the eye. There was an air of comfort even among the lower classes, and a something decidedly more in common with our ideas than is encountered elsewhere in the East. To see the poorer people going to a shop and buying loaves of bread and meat pies, was pleasanter than seeing each individual seated separately on the ground cooking an indigestible-looking chupattee in selfish solitude as in India. One curious sight witnessed by some of our party deserves mention here. At intervals the Kazi of the city goes round the shops inspecting weights or measures. On this occasion he detected a butcher using short weight. The culprit was at once seized, his neck and legs bound together^ and repeated blows were laid on his back with a thick broad leather strap ; on another occasion a man detected infusing false measures had the measure tied round his neck and he was flogged through the chief bazaars and streets. There is no Penal Code in Yarkand but, if it be allowable to offer a suggestion on- such matters, I think Indian society would rejoice if the Yarkand method of summarily punishing such rascals could find an appropriate section in the Indian Penal Code. I have here given my first impressions of a ride through the city^ but there is much more of interest which will be detailed hereafter in another part of this report. Various rumours were spread abroad about the ultimate destination of the mission ; one day we heard we should have to go to Aksu; again it was said that the ruler of the country was coming to see us at Yarkand on his way to Khoten ; then it was that we were to be hurried off to Kashghar. Finally the truth came out that His Highness the Atalik Ghazi having deter- mined to, receive us with all due honor, had caused an entirely new suite of buildings to be erected for our accommodation^ and as they would not be ready for some days^ the &ct of it } ( 7 ) being the month of fast^ the Bamazan^ afforded a reasonable excuse for asking us to delay our onward progress. We therefore spent a very pleasant three weeks in visiting Yarkand and the vicinity. Just outside the city on the east are extensive marshes^ where ducks^ geese and snipe abound and afford ample occupation to the sportsman and the naturalist. Some of our party went out for a two days excursion to shoot pheasants^ and returned with the veritable burgoot^ golden eagle^ or bear coot as called by Atkinsou whose stories about the bird^ nay its very existence^ have been seemingly called in question. This bird is said by Atkinson to kill bears. We were told it would kill deer, wolves, and even large game, and, being impatient to try its powers, we took several burgoots with us to the Yarkaod j heels to fly them at the large geese and herons which abound there. To our surprise and disappointment the eagles would tamely alight from the falconer's arm on to the ground and take no notice of the game. Subsequent experience taught us that the story of these birds attacking large four-footed game was perfectly true, and I shall hereafter recoil how I saw a large wild boar brought to bay entirely by the attack of a burgoot. On the 22nd November we were awoke at early dawn by hearing six guns fired in honor of the £ed, and music and dancing were kept up for some hours. Syud Yakub Khan then came to take leave of us, having been summoned by the Atalik to Kashghar. We were to follow on the 28th, and it was arranged that we should send on our heavy baggage at once by carts, we our- selves following with a light camp. Carts were supplied for this purpose. These are good substantial vehicles, on two wheels six feet in diameter, and drawn by four or six horses ; one horse only is in the shafts, the leaders being harnessed abreast and driven with reins by a man sitting on the front of the cart. We were much struck by the business-like way in which the carts were loaded, every box being weighed, and the number written down, and only a certain load — ten hundredweight, allowed to be put on the cart. The animals used were the ordinary Yarkand ponies, very strong and willing, who would pull through the heaviest ground in a steady determined way, performing stages of 20 and 25 miles without apparent &tigue. When one thinks of one's experience with Indian hackeries and even d&k gharries, the inevi- table feeling comes over one's mind that even Indian civilization has sometUng to learn from the wrongly called barbarous Yarkand. We afterwards found that these carts are used as omnibuses for the transport of passengers from time to time, and from our embassy quarters at Yangi Shahr we used to see such an omnibus go to and from the city of Kashghar several times a day. There are also travelling carts running regularly between Yarkand and Kashghar, making five stages in which seats are obtained at a fixed rate. During our stay at Yarkand our relations with the Dadkhwah were of the happiest kind. By degrees he became accustomed to the idea of photography, and allowed Captains Chapman and Trotter to take likeness of his soldiers, and even admitted the camera into the court-yard of his palace, taking good care however to preserve even the skirt of his garment from falling within the range of the photographer's lens. Captain Trotter put up a sun-dial in his court- yard, and Dr. Bellew grained the hearts of the Dadkhwah and his people by his skillful operations on blind and sick patients. The day before our departure the Dadkhwah invited us to an early dinner, when the number of the respective dishes sorely tasked the appetites of the hungriest or most polite. Sergeant Bhind won no small applause by his performance on the Highland bagpipes, but I observed that the worthy Governor of Yarkand did not bestow as much attention on the Highland costume as I expected he would do. On asking the reason, I was told that he did not like to take notice of his appearance, as evidentiy in his hurry to attend the Sergeant had forgotten to put on his trowsers I Winter had quite set in when on the morning of the 28th November the British Mission left Yarkand for Kashghar. At the first 'sang' or five mik-post we crossed a wooden bridge, and rode for an hour through a well inhabited and wooded country till we came to the edge of the Karakum, literally black sandy desert. Here we were invited to alight and warm ourselves by a conf ortable fire in a peasant's house, and after the usual hospitality we took leave of tiie Dadkwah's high officials and rode across a desolate tract of sandy hillocks and \ ( 8 ) marshy plain till we reached the flonrishing village of Kok Robat (Blue Post-house). Here we put up iu the royal oorda^ or rest-house. Next morning we pursued our way prepared as we thought to face the cold^ but we had not gone above a mile into the desert plain before a keenly cutting wind proved that the ordinary winter costume of Englishmen was not suited to a Yarkand cUmate. A few days before^ when wandering about the Yarkand bazaar^ we were offered for sale fur leggings^ socks, and caps, which were not sufficiently tempting to induce us to purchase, whereupon the disappointed tradesman said, in a warning voice ; you will want these and more before very long. Now we had to repent the little heed we gave to his words. For three hours we had to endure. the most cutting cold. As we approached Ak Robat (White Post-house) which is a hc»stelerie in the desert much similar to one of the rest-houses in the Egyptian desert, we were met by Khal Mohamad, the Military Governor of Yangi Hissar, with 20. horsemen who had ridden out two days^ journey to escort us in with honor. Khal Mohamad is a remarkably smart looking and as we afterwards found a very intelligent and distinguished officer, and the neat martial appearance of his men and the precision with which they wheeled round and trotted ahead of us excited the approval of my military companions. The uniform of these men consisted of green velvet caps with fur inside, yellow leather coats lined with fur and trowsers of the same, neatly embroidered. The officer had a curious patch of the fur on his back in the form of a heart. This is supposed to be a distinguishing mark to his followers when he leads in battle. On alighting at Ak Robat we found, as usual, a well carpeted room with a good fire to welcome us, and spon afterwards Khal Mohamad and his followers having doffed their uniform came in, bearing smoking dishes for breakfast, and waited on us. We were now in a land of surprises, but nothing perhaps was more striking than the versatility of the soldiers of the Amir's army. When not employed on actual military duty, they turn their hand to cooking, carpentry, or any work that may require to be done, and when they march they are encumbered by no heavy baggage train. Each man carries his blanket or choga tied behind his saddle, or, when boxes or saddle bags are necessary or cooking utensils have to be carried, they are slung across the saddle, on the top of which the soldier mounts and makes a march of 30 or 40 miles a day. From Ak Robat we rode on over the desert tract, here and there meeting signs of habita- tion, till we came to the village of Kizil, where we put up for the night in the royal caravan- serai. As we entered the village we saw tiie furnaces for smelting iron which Mr. Shaw des- cribes in his book. Dr. Stoliczka visited them ; he found the ore much impregnated with lime which acts as a flux and renders possible the peculiarly simple prt)cess described by Mr. Shaw. Our next day^s march was through cultivation, past the village of Toplok, and over the River Shahnoz which we crossed by a good wooden bridge built by the Atalik. Mills were worked by this stream, and here and elsewhere we saw water-power used for husking rice and other purposes. After crossing a low sandstone and conglomerate ridge, we entered the town of Yangi Hissar. The gardens and private houses here are surrounded by mud walls with crenellated tops, giving the appearance of fortifications. Parsing through the main street of the bazaar, which resembles those in Yarkand, we came by the fort, which is in a plain about 300 yards from the town, and is built in the form of a rectangle, and presents a somewhat imposing appearance. Leaving this fort to the right we were taken to a large walled garden, in which a com- fortable set of quarters had been prepared for us, while Elirghiz tents were pitched inside the enclosure. The walls of the largest rooms had been neatly painted, good carpets and silk mus- nuds were on the floor, and tables and stools, covered with red baize and supposed to suit our English tastes, had been specially made for us. We halted two days at Yangi Hissar, the Atalik having sent a special messenger to say that he feared we must be tired with our long march, and he therefore wished us to take rest. This was a polite form of letting us know that the arrangements for our proper reception at the capital had not been quite completed. At Yangi Hissar we found ourselves close to the lofty range of mountains in which the Tagharma, Chish Tagh, and other towering peaks looked conspicuously grand and made us long 3- — The Indus Valley from Leh, Eln. 11,30a [t.. View from Joint Commissioner's Garden. 4.— The Ex. Raja of Ladalrand family. J ( 9 ) for the time to come when the Pamir should be explored. It is dangerous to advance ideas r^^arding geographical problems without going fully into all' the details of proofs which I must reserve for some other occasion, but I think I can give reasons for supposing that the Tagharma Peak and its surrounding country is alluded to in a passage in Ezekiel^ Chapter £7-14 — ''They of the House of Togarmah*^ traded in thy fairs with horses and horsemen and mules /' also Chapter S8-6 — " The House of Togarmah of the north quarters, and all his bands/' We left Yangi Hissar on the 3rd December and halted for the mid-day dastarkhwan at a yery picturesque kind of shooting lodge in the village of Soghlak, on the banks of a stream which was at that season dry. We passed the night at the village of Yepchan in the ooida or royal resting place. Next morning was to see the British Mission enter the capital of Eastern Turkestan. It was a cold brisk day, and all the streams were frozen with a thin coating. The atmosphere, so often clouded by a thick impalpable dusty mist, was fortunately beautifully clear and we had a magnificent view of the giant peaks on the Alai to our left, whilst before us extended the long and comparatively speaking low range of the Tian Shan which separates Ehokand and Russia from the Atalik's dominions. At Karasu, about 5 miles from our destination, we halted to have breakfast and to put on our uniforms, after which we remounted and crossing a small bridge were met by Mirza Ahmed Kush-begi, one of the highest o£Scials in the Atalik's Court who had come out with an escort of cavalry to bring us in. Mirza Ahmed is a man of some note in Central Asian history and took part in the wars vnth Russia which ended so disastrously for the Khokand army. He was mounted on a fine bay horse of Andijani breed, with a saddle and bridle of remarkably neat and somewhat European pattern. As we rode along over the undulating slopes, the fort of Yangi-Shahr, the residence of the Atalik, came in view, and further on in the faa distance we could discern the long low walls of the City of Eashghar, a place till then unvisited, and in fact I believe unseen, by any Englishman. As we approached Yangi-Shahr, we passed several separate enclosures which were the residences of some of the Atalik's officers, answering in a way to our barracks. At the entrance to one we saw two 9-pounder guns drawn up, in front of which a soldier vnth an Enfield rifle stood sentry. Passing by the north-east comer of the fort we came in sight of the royal gateway, on the right of which and distant about 80 yards is the new Elchi Khana or embassy quarters, recently erected for our reception. Crowds of spectators here thronged the road and scanned with eager looks this novel apparition. It is a mark of politeness in these countries to dismount in the street and not to ride inside a gateway ; so, following the example of Mirza Ahmed, we left our horses outside and entered a spacious gateway, inside which on three sides were raised platforms with a fire-place to accommodate the guard. Through this we passed into a spacious quadrangle round aU sides of which a broad verandah ran. On two sides doors opened into good sized rooms; a passage at the opposite side led into the inner quadrangle, on three sides of which sets of rooms for the accommodation of the members of the embassy had been neatly fitted up. The floors were well carpeted vnth rugs from Elhoten. English velvet or broadcloth lined the walls up to the wainscoat, above which were neatly built recesses for shelves. The ceiling was papered with English or Russian paper, and the outer vnndows, for they were double, had neat frames vdth paper doing duty for glass, — an article as yet but little known to the present race, though as I afterwards found in my exploration of a buried city, glass was known and used by the inhabitants of the land 1,000 years ago. The fire-places were large and well built with gypsum plaster and had the inestimable merit of giving out a good heat without emitting smoke at the same time. * Togarmah was grancbon of Japhet. ( 10 ) The kitchen arrangements and accommodation for servants^ the stables for 50 horses^ and the enclosure for our baggage animals^ were all in keeping and excellent^ and I fear the compa- rison we drew between the method and ingenuity of these so-called barbarian people and of their more civilized neighbours across the Himalayas was not in favour of India. Whilst we were settling ourselves in our new quarters^ Ihrar Khan Tora^ the same person who came to India as Envoy from the Atalik in 1871-72^ called to enquire after our health and to request that we would at once present ourselves before his master. Fortunately our baggage animals^ which being always lightly loaded were accustomed to keep pretty well up with us^ soon arrived and we were speedily ready to obey the summons. Mounting on horses^ we rode across the moat and inside the large gateway^ and after passing a small quadrangle found ourselves in an open space^ on one side of which was a large mosque and other buildings^ and in the left front the Atalik's palace. According to etiquette we dismounted at about 40 paces from the gateway and walked slowly along with Ihrar Ehan^ the Yasawal-bashi or head chamberlain with white wand in hand going ahead. In the outer gateway soldiers were seated on a dais, with tlieir fire-arms laid on the ground before them, their arms folded and their eyes cast on the ground. We then crossed obliquely an empty court-yard and, passing through a second gateway filled with soldiers, crossed another court on all sides o^ which soldiers in gay costumes were ranged seated. fVom this court we passed into the penetralia, a small court, in which not a soul was visible and everywhere a deathlike stillness prevailed. At the further end of this court was a long hall with several window doors. Ihraj* Khan then led us in single file, with measured tread, to some steps at the side of the hall, and, entering almost on tip-toe, looked in and returning beckoned with his hand to me to advance alone. As I approached the door he made a sign for me to enter, and immediately withdrew. I found myself standing at the threshold of a very common looking room, per- fectly bare of all ornament and with not a very good carpet on the floor : looking about, I saw enter at a doorway on the opposite side, a tall stout man, plainly dressed. He beckoned with his hand and I advanced thinking that it must be a chamberlain who was to conduct me to ' the presence.' Instinctively however I made a bow as I advanced and soon found myself taken by both hands and saluted with the usual form of politeness, and I knew that I was standing before the far-famed ruler of Eastern Turkestan. After a few words of welcome the Atf^ led me across the room and seated me near him by the side of a window. At this moment a salute of 15 guns was fired. His Highness asked in an eager tone after the health of Her Majesty and of the Viceroy, and soon s^rwards called in a low voice to Ihrar Khan to bring in the other officers. They came in one by one, and each was shakei^ by the hand and made to sit down by my side. Then there was a long and somewhat trying pause, during which the Atalik eyed each one of us with intent scrutiny; I had been told that etiquette forbade the guest to speak much on the first interview, and that it was a point of good manners to sit perfectly still, with downcast eyes. When it is remembered that the oriental posture requires the visitor to sit upon his heels, with feet well flattened under him, the excrutiating agony of having to keep perfectly unmoved in this position for perhaps half an hour will be appreciated. After this silent ordeal had been undergone for some time, at a sign from the Atalik 16 soldiers came in with the dastarkhwan, and the Atalik breaking a loaf of bread shared it with us. After the cloth was removed, we, remembering our lesson in manners, rose up and stroking our beards said ' Allah o Akbar,' soon after which the Atalik said ' Khush-amadeed' ' you are welcome.' This was the signal for us to be released from our agonising position, and we shook hands and departed. During the interview Ihrar Khan stood by the door at the further end of the room, it not being etiquette for any one to be near enough to hear any thing that passes between the ruler and his guest. According to the etiquette of the country, after having thus paid our respects to the ruler, it was considered proper for us to remain quiet in our own quarters for a few days. Some of our followers however went to the city of Kashghar to make purchases, and found themselves the object of eager curiosity, while crowds thronged round calling them ' English.' The fact is that So very little intercourse has taken place between India and the people of Kashghar that they knew scarcely anything of us. ( 11 ) On the day following our first interview^ His Highness went out to pay his devotions at the shrine of a celebrated Saint Hozrat Aiik, and^ a day or two later^ returned with the new dignity of Amir and title of Khan which had been brought to him by Syud Yakub Khan frpm Constantinople. Henceforth then the Atalik Ghazi^ Yakub Beg^ was to be known as the Amir Mohamad Yakub Khan of Kashghar^ ooins were struck and prayers recited in the name of Sultan Abdul Aziz Khan^ and on the name of the coin the words Zurb-i-Mahrusa-i-Kashghar ' Mint of the protected coimtry of Kashghar/ were struck. The 11th December having been fixed for the formal reception of the British Mission^ Ihrar Khan came over from the palace with one hundred men to carry the presents^ and himself to conduct us to the presence chamber. Her Majesty^s letter^ enclosed in a magnificent casket of pale yellow quartz clamped with gilt bands and handles and bossed with onyx stones^ was carried by Sergeant Rhind^ who was followed by the Havildar of the Guide Escort bearing His Excellency the Yiceroy^s letter in a richly enamelled casket^ officers and escort followed in procession on horseback. On dismounting and approaching the gateway^ all the Amir^s guard stood up. The ceremony of approaching the Amir was the same as on the former occasion. His pleasure at receiving this mark of Her Majesty's favor was visible in his brightened countenance, and, as the letters were delivered, he frequently repeated Alhumdulilla, ' Ood be !>raised/ adding " you have conferred a great favor on me. I am honored by the receipt of a etter from the Queen. I am highly gratified.'^ The presents were then passed before him in review and conveyed into an inner apartment. The usual dastarkhwan was spread before us^ and in course of conversation the Amir remarked — " Your Queen is a great sovereign. Her government is a powerful and beneficent one. Her friendship is to be desired as it always proves a source of advantage to those who possess it. The Queen is as the eon. in whose genial rays such poor people as I flourish. I particularly desire the friendship of the English. It is essential to me. Your rule is just. The road is open to every one^ and from here to London any one can come and go with perfect freedom.^' The Amir then desired us to consider his country as our home^ and to do just what we Eked without any hesitation ; all his officers had been warned, he said, to show every attention to the royal guests. On my expressing a desire to see his troops, he said^ you have only to name the day and you can see whatever you like. On the 13th December we paid our first visit to the City of Kashghar. The distance is about five miles through a cultivated and populous tract all the way. At first the road passes amongst a number of detached and semi-fortified enclosures used as barracks for the Amir^s troops and their families. They are neat quadrangular structures, with crenellated walls and defensible gateways^ and are capable of accommodating from fifty to sixly families each. Between them are corn-fields and parade-grounds intersected by irrigation canals and dotted in all directions by butts for musketry practice. Beyond these the road drops in the wide bed of the Kizil Su, or '^ Bed River^^^ and is here carried across a long stretch of water-logged land by a wide causeway built of faggots laid with earth and planted with willow trees. It conducts to the bridge across the river, a rough wooden structure supported on two piers between the banks and protected by railings on each side. Beyond the bridge the road lies over higher ground to the city, about a mile distant, and leaves some ancient ruins a little way off to the right. They attract attention from the height and massive structure of the fortifications of the old citadel, the outlines of which are still Tery fairly represented in the existing remains. Aski Shahr^ or ^' Ancient city^^ (the ruins, amidst which are gardens and orchards and huts) — ^in contradistinction to Kuhna Shahr, or " Old City'' (the present town of Kashghar), and Yangi Shahr, or " New City'' (the residence of the Amir and his Court) — was a flourish- ing seat of trade with China in the time of Wang Khan, the predecessor in these parts of Cbengiz Khan. It was noted for the strength of its fortifications and for many centuries successfully resisted the attacks of successive conquerors. At this time the ramparts are about ( 12 ) thirty feet high^ and twelve paces wide at top ; the bastions^ which were built up of successive layers of mud cement, project some forty paces from the rampart walls and still show the marks of connection with them by means of covered passages or gsJleries one above the other. At least such was our solution of the meaning of the regular lines of rafter sockets (decayed wood was found in situ in one of them) that at intervals of six or seven feet run horizontally round these bastions. To Iskandar Mirza^ a grandson of the Amir Timur, is assigned the credit of having reduced this famous stronghold by diverting the Eizil Su against its walls. A main branch of the river certainly does flow where the east face of the city walls ought to stand, and so far accounts for their disappearance, and gives support to a tradition connected therewith. It is to the effect that the defenders, on seeing the means resorted to by the enemy for their reduction, gave up all for lost, and at once sought means of escape from the vengeance their obstinate resistance had provoked. By a counterstratagem on the part of their Chiefs, they were enabled under cover of darkness to escape to the cities in the direction of the Mar^lbishi and T^klamak^n unobserved by the enemy, who too late discovered that the sounds of activity proceeding from within the walls were produced by the only living creatures left there — a number of camels with rattle-drums fixed on their necks, scampering wildly through the deserted streets — ^the unvntting agents of their own protracted terror, the people's hurri^ escape, and the enemy's destructive rage. And so the celebrated K^shghar of the time of Wang Khan was reduced to ruins. From the bridge we passed through a thin suburb to the city, which is considerably smaller than that of Yarkand. It is enclosed within high walls strengthened by buttress bastions at short intervals, and surrounded by a deep ditch. The entrance on the south side is through three gateways, one within the other and at different angles, into the main bazar. The centre gate has folding doors plated with iron, and is kept by a guard of fifty soldiers, whom we found seated on each side of the roadway with prong-rest rifles set before them. Our progress through the bazaar was slow owing to the dense crowd of market people thronging the thoroughfare, and the circumstance afforded us a good opportunity for judging of the con- dition of the general community and observing the different types of nationality. Compared with similar scenes in Yarkand, one is struck by the remarkably robust and healthy look of the people and the almost entire absence of goitre which is there nearly imiversal : and next, by the large proportion of pure Chinese &ces amongst the general crowd of Uzbaks, Tajiks, and Tunganis : whilst here too, as there, the generally excellent clothing, the good-will, the order and the activity characterizing the crowd did not fail to attract our notice. Arrived at the Dadkhwah's residence, we passed through a succession of courts similar to those of the Governor's residence at Yarkand and the Amir's palace here — each with its guard of soldiers clad in the national ciopa and loose silk robe splashed boldly broadly and bluntly with all the colours of the brightest rainbow and seated along the walls with downcast heads and solemn looks, amidst silence perfect. The Dadkhwah met us in the verandah of his audience-hall and after salutation conducted us to the seats prepared expressly for us at the upper part of the room. These were high-backed arm-chairs, cushioned and covered with scarlet cloth or purple plush. All were ranged round two sides of a large square table covered with the rainbow pattern silks before alluded to. Our host took his seat on a divan near us, welcomed us warmly to Kashghar, and begged we would pardon any omissions on his part, as he had never had the pleasure of meeting any of our people before and was consequently ignorant of our customs, and assured us it was his desire to please and do us honour. Alish Beg is an active little man, of very pleasing manners, and bright intelligent features of a strongly Tartar cast. His hospitality was so profuse that our united efforts made small impression on the array of five score and five dishes and trays and bowls of stews, pilaos, pastry, sweets and fruits, &c., set before us. The fact did not escape the notice of our host and drew from him the remark that we would probably address ourselves more freely to the feast before us if relieved of the ceremonial restraints of his presence, and he consequently ( 13 ) withdrew on the plea of some pressing business to transact^ begging us the while to consider his house and grounds as our own. With this liberty we passed an agreeable afternoon in the garden attached to the Resi- dency^ though its trees were leafless^ its tanks frozen^ and kiosks deserted. In the full foliage of summer it must be a deUghtful retreat. In this garden we found a heap of copper ore recently brought in from some hills to the north of the city. A sample of it was subsequently submitted for Dr. Stoliczka^s opinion^ and was found by him on analysis to be a copper pyrites capable of yielding twenty-five per cent, of the pure metal. Towards sunset we took leave of our host^ highly gratified at the cordial reception and hospitable entertainment he had provided for us^ and galloped back to our quarters^ passing on the road an active tide of traffic to and fro between the old and new cities. Most were on horseback^ or mounted on donkies, and very few on foot^ whilst no small number found accom- modation in the " omnibus " carts that ply daily on this road. These are covered waggons, drawn by four horses, one between the shafts and three abreast in front : they carry from twelve to sixteen passengers huddled together any fashion : they make three or four journeys a day, and the charge is thirteen j9«/, or about two pence English, each way. On the 18th instant, we attended a review of the Khatai or Chinese troops in the service of the Amir. There are, we were told, some three thousand odd of these representatives of the recently ruling race now in the Amir^s army. They are of course all forcible converts to Islam, have been deprived of their " pigtails,'' amongst several other privileges, and are kept separate from the other troops in a fortified barrack of their own. Their arms, organization, and discipline too are quite distinct, and maintained in their own Chinese fashion under a Chief called Kho-dalai. At the review we found twenty-eight companies, of fifty men each, on the ground. They were disposed in two divisions opposite to each other, and at the head of each company were carried two standards of triangular shape and bright colour, one at the head of each file of twenty-five men. Their only weapon is a large, heavy smooth-bore, set in a wooden socket, and very much like an ordinary duck-guD. It is called i^/u, is carried on the shoulders of two men, the foremost acting as a rest or support, and is served by three others, viz,, one to carry ammunition and load, a second who carries a long ramrod tipped with a bunch of horse hair to clean the gun and complete loading, and the third as supernumerary and stop-gap in case of casualty. There are ten of these t^(fu guns with each company. In front of each division, as they stood facing each other drawn up in contiguous columns of companies, were posted a half company each of spearmen, with their heads bound with handkerchiefs, the ends fluttering in the wind, of archers helmeted after the &shion of the stage, and of " tigers,'' men clad throughout in yellow, streaked with broad bars of black, and topped above with a pair of neat ears. These last carried large circular shields gaudily painted with dragons and other hideous monsters on one side and concealing on the other a gunbarrel set in a socket of wood, and serving also as a handle whereby to carry the shield. All these three classes wore 'short side-swords. Midway between the two divisions stood the band, composed of a big drum carried in a framework sedan by two porters, and attended on each side by lesser drums, with players of flageolet, bugle, and C3nnbals. With the band stood the commandant, the Kho-dalai, attended by a number of fuglemen, one of whom carried a large flag and the rest small ones. Such was the appearance and disposition of the Khatai force as we found it on reaching the parade groimd. At a signal from the Kho-dalai, the head fugleman waved his flag and all the little flags ran out to their proper places and waved likewise. And presently, without any sound being uttered, the kaleidoscope began to work. Companies, following their standards, crossed, recrossed, and interlaced and finally resolved themselves into a long straight line. An- other wave of the flags, and the javelin-men, archers and " tigers " bounded to the front, gesti- culating, capering and cutting antics in an absurdly grotesque manner, ending with the line of ''tigers" dispersing the enemy^s cavalry by crouching under cover of their shields, and suddenly starting up with a yell and flourish of their dragons. The enemy's horse is supposed to have d ( 14 ) re-formed and again come to the ckarge^ and the ^^ tigers " ran together in small groups of five or six within a circle of their shields : suddenly the shields part asunder with a volley^ arms and legs and darting dragons flash before one's sight, and the whole line of skirmishers dis- appears behind the main line^ from which the tyfu men now come into action. A rapid and well-maintained fire runs up and down the line for a few minutes^ and then the " tigers/' &c., again appear in the front, playing their swords upon stragglers and wounded of the repulsed enemy, and stopping now and again to scare away some rallying horseman with a crouch and a bounds or with a roll and a shout. In this style a variety of manoeuvres were performed, such as forming line, changing front, volley and independent firing, skirmishings fee, whUst a retreat was covered by rockets and fuse torpedoes. The expenditure of powder was unstinted, and the tout ensemble of the spectacle highly dramatic. On the conclusion of the review, we were entertained by the Kho-dalai at a very recherche Chinese dejeuner in a marquee on the ground. Whilst thus engaged, the athletes and mountebanks of the regiment went through some of their performances for our amusement. The exercises with the sword, battle-axe, and javelin were very cleverly performed and with extreme rapidity, though their merit was not apparent, since they seemed dangerous only to the performer. The single stick, cudgelling, kicking and tumbling were laughable, as much by reason of the dumpy forms and squab features of the actors, as by their activity and merry gestures. The performances ended with a burlesque acted by the " tigers.'' A champion engages one of them. He is put to flight and takes refuge behind the barricades of his comrades' shields. The victor pursues and boldly rushes up the sloping bank of shields. A puff of smoke, a rolling body, and a corpse, theatrically stiff, borne away by. head and heels, ushers in the finale. The band plays, the standards come to the front, the companies range themselves in their places and there we left them. Groups of them afterwards attended at our Residency to be photographed and sketched. At our Christmas games, we had an opportunity of seeing their target practice with the t^u. Their shooting 'at two hundred and fifty yards' range was remarkably good, considering the nature of the weapon and its mode of use, and is no doubt attributable to the daily practice that goes on at the numerous butts in the vicinity. We also witnessed the artillery practice of a battery under the command of a Fanjabi, who has for many years been a naturalized subject of Khokand and latterly of Kashghar. Amongst his men are many Kashmiris, Panjabis and A%hans, and oddly enough the words of conmiand are given in English. The small escort of guides, cavalry and infantry, attached to the Embassy, were present on the ground, and everywhere conspicuous in the crowd of troops, by their smart set-up and soldierly bearing. They drew to themselves no small share of attention, and by the deference paid to them were evidently looked upon as f nends. The Snider practice of the infantry was only appreciated by the few who knew the weapon, but the neza-bazi and sword-cutling of the cavalry excited a lively interest, and many were the murmurs of applause that greeted the successful passes', as trooper after trooper carried away the peg, or sliced the turnips set up in a row. Fortunately for our credit, the men entered keenly the lists and acquitted themselves very creditably. The Khokandi horsemen are strangers to this mode of using the spear and sword : and on this occasion unreservedly expressed their admiration. We had in the early part of the day seen their practice at a cap stuck on a short stick. It consists in loading and firing at full gallop at the mark indicated, but the movements were so clumsy and slow, and the aim so very much at random, that it barely deserves mention. The Elhokand soldier, though nearly always seen on horseback, does not fight except on foot, and even for this his native arms and dress are but ill-adapted, and consequently they are not skilful in feats of arms. A game more to their taste however is ulak, a scramble on horseback, for the possession of a sheep on its passage from the starting point to the goal. It is carried in the lap, and is sn9.tched &om one to another with more roughness and energy than with skilful horsemanship. At the conclusion of the games, we were entertained at luncheon by the commandant of artilleiy before mentionedj Nabbi Bakhsh, Jemadar, who received ns in his own house, and ( 15 ) seemed as well pleased with the day^s proceedings as we were^ all the result of a well-timed compliment on the excellence of his mortar practice. The afternoon was well advanced when we took onr leave and sought the shelter of our own quarters^ for the keen frosty air we had been exposed to since the morning had become painfully numbing. On the 20th December the Treaty of commerce was presented for the Amir's acceptance^ on which occasion His Highness expressed very warmly his desire to avail himself of European science for the improvement of his country^ and his determination to render every facility to traders. Up to the time of our arrival at Kashghar^ the daily wants of our camp had been supplied by our hosts with the most profuse liberality. But now that we had taken up our quarters for the winter, I considered it proper, in accordance with the instructions received from the Viceroy, to endeavour to relieve the Amir from the heavy burdens of such unbounded hospitality. This caused a lively negotiation, it being a point of honor with our kindly hosts to allow us to incur no expense of any kind ; they were even anxious to supply gratis all the articles of curiosity &c., which we purchased in the bazaar. Let me not be understood however to imply that in such a case the tradespeople would have been the sufferers, for it is a fact well worthy of prominent notice, that on all occasions, wherever we went and drew supplies from the Ameer's officials, the people were always properly paid, the Yuzbashi or other officer in charge of our party having been provided with cash for the purpose. I shall have occasion to mention here- after, an instance, which came under our immediate observation, of the people being paid fully for work done for the State, thus justifying the opinion we had formed that there is less oppres- sion practised on the peasants in the kingdom of Kitshghar than probably in any other country in Asia. After much discussion the daily Zyafat or allowance for our mission was fixed as f oDows :-— - 60 charaks* Indian com, \ 50 donkey loads straw, > for oar hoiset axid baggage mules. 200 bundles Lucerne grass ) 10 charaks rioe ... j ^iSs^JZi ::: f-ourMowers. 3 sheep ... • • • J 300 Tungasf for the officer's mess. Besides this liberal allowance of food, suits of furs and other warm clothing were supplied to every member of the embassy, and once or twice a week a profusion of every kind of fruit, game (deer, pheasants, partridges, ducks,) and fish, &c., was sent to the mission. As the Amir had given permission for us to go where we Uked, and suggested the idea of our going to some of his outlying forts on shooting excursions, accompanying this offer with permission to make fr^ use of our scientific instruments, Lieutenant-Colonel Gordon leffc Kashghar on the 81st December accompanied by Captain Trotter and Dr. Stoliczka, on a visit to Chadyr Kul in the Tian Shan range ; whilst Captain Biddulph went off in another direction to visit the forest of Maralbashi. A full account of these excursions is given in another part of tiiis report, so I need not enter upon the details here. If space permitted me, it would be interesting to the general public to give a lengthened description of our ordinary life during a most pleasant sojourn of nearly four months at the capitfld of the Amir. But I can only here g^ve a passing notice of our friendly intercourse with the chief officers of his Court, who entertained us at their houses, and accepted our hospi- tality in return. The intensity of the vrinter, with a thermometer which for many weeks descended some degrees below zero, and frequently did not mount above freezing point in the sun, prevented us from moving about very freely, but it afforded us a good opportimity of shewing to the astonished inhabitants the skill of some and the olumsiness of others of our parfy in the science of skating. * Cfaarak r=: 169)8. 1 4^ Tunga=l Rupee. ( 16 ) Our relations with our good friends the Kashgharians were of the pleasantest nature^ unmoved by a single contretemps^ and it is with pleasure and pride I record the fact that no single instance of altercation occurred between any of our followers and the people of the country. The system which I had enforced from the outset^ of having the roll called twice a day^ and of not allowing any of our followers to leave the precincts of the embassy quarters without permission^ had an admirable efPect in checking misconduct^ and inspired confidence in the Amir's officials that no abuse of their kind hospitality would be allowed. A remarkable proof of their confidence was afforded in the popularity of the dispensary which Dr. Bellew established in one of the courts of our embassy. As we travelled along from Sanju to Yarkand^ Syud Yaktib Khan shrewdly observed that the skill of an English physician would do as much as anything else to cause the people to look favorably on our mission^ and as we rode past the villages on our route^ he would enquire what sick there were^ and brought them out for Dr. Bellew^s inspection. This was somewhat a trial for medical skilly for in the majority of cases^ the patients suffered from diseases inseparable from old age^ and the gift of renovating youth is denied to human skill. But in the treatment of eye diseases and in performing sundry surgical operations at Yarkand^ Dr. Bellew was happfly successful so that his fame preceded him to Kashghar^ and when we had erected two spacious Kirghiz tents in the embassy quarters^ patients of both sexes flocked daily for treatment. Dr. Bellew's account of his work in this department will be read with great interest. Syud Yakub Khan^ whose enlightenment and freedom from all prejudice, &cilitated greatly all our proceedings, and augurs well for the advancement of this interesting country, was particularly desirous to avail himself of the scientific knowledge of our lamented friend Dr. Stoliczka, though I regret to say that untoward circumstances prevented our geologist from having full scope for the prosecution of his pursuits. And I lament that his hand no longer remains to record the result of such enquiries as he was enabled to make. From some notes however, which he gave at my request to the Amir, I am able to give the following analysis of coal and metals, &c., which were brought for his inspection. I. Copper ore brought from the Alai range. This proved to be sulphuret of copper and iron, generally known as copper pyrites. It contains — Copper 30% Iron 35% Sulphur 35% It is a good copper ore, being brittle, and yielding easily to the hammer. The impurities of the ore are small, silica, alumina, mica and magnetic iron. These may be calculated at $^0 per cent. So that out of 100 lbs. of rock, 80 lbs. of pyrites ought to be got, and from this again 23 lbs. of pure copper. II. Coal from the range west of Kashghar. This contains :— Volatile matter including water!" 40% [ '''''^ttersn^"^ Fixed carbon ^''% ) "^ ^ '^ This is good coal, exceeding the average of Indian coal by having a comparatively moderate proportion of ash. This is a fine pale reddish powder the color being caused by a small quantity of iron oxide. The coal is deep shining black with a splintery fracture. The large quantity of volatile matter would make it a fair coal for obtaining gas, but it is very slightly caking. III. Coal from Turfan : Ash 20% Volatile matter, i.e., water . . . 39% ") Combustible matter Fixed carbon 41% ) 80 per cent. ( 17 ) This is a £air coal^ black with a somewhat dull earthj fracture. The ash is greyish white with bluish specks^ a caking coal. Both these coals are particularly free from pyrites. IV . Copper from west of Kashghar. A piece of soft sandstone of a pale reddish color poorly disseminated with carbonate of copper^ not more than 24 per cent, of copper being procurable. v. Galena from west of Kashghar. A remarkably pure galena evidently occurring in a white quartoze comparatively soft TDck which adheres to the ore only in small quantities. The pure galena is composed of 85*65 per cent, of lead and 18*45 of sulphur. In the most perfect process as much as 84f per cent, of lead was obtained from galena^ but tiie usual yield is from 75 to 80 per cent. This includes silver^ if any be present^ which is very often the case ; in fact galena is generally argentifer- ous, but the process to ascertain the percentage of that precious metal is complicated and lengthy^ and larger specimens than those submitted are required for examination. On the 2nd February His Highness the Ameer put his seal to the Treaty of Commerce which had been prepared for his acceptance, and thus the object of our mission was happily accomplished. But as the winter season was still in all its severity, it was necessary to delay our departure for India for some time. Meanwhile, I determined to take advantage of the Amir's offer to shew us somewhat of his country, and on the 14th February Dr. Bellew, Captains Chapman and Trotter, and Dr. Stoliczka started with me on an excursion to the Artysh District north of Kashghar. Snow had fallen a day or two before^ and the cold was intense, but the bright clear atmosphere enabled us to have a magnificent panoramic view, and was useful to Captsun Trotter in disclosing sundry peaks and ranges of hills. As far as Awat, about six miles, we rode through thick cultivation. Awat itself is a large village. Here we came upon saline soil and passed over barren ground till we reached the shrine of Mahram Khoja, daughter of Sultan Satuk Boghra Khan, who was buried here about 800 years ago and regarding whom mention will be found in the history of Kashghar. The present Amir has erected a very neat tomb over her grave and built a set of houses or rooms for pilgrims. This he has done in the case of all saints and martyrs of note all over his country, thus acquiring a character for sanctity. Fine tall poplars grow in the shriue enclosure. After a short halt here, we resumed our ride over undulating ground, leaving the village of Beshkirim to our left, and crossing two streams till we came to the foot of a low gravel and sandstone ridge, which we crossed and then descended into the Artysh valley. This valley is studded with small hamlets, and in the centre is the bazar of Altun or Golden Artysh, where is the tomb of Satuk Boghra Khan, the first Chief of the country who embraced Islamism in the tenth century and imposed the new religion on the inhabitants. His mauso- leum, a rather imposing structure of sun-dried bricks faced with green tiles, was built in its present form about 44 years ago. Several masonry buildings have been erected by the present Amir for the priests and pUgrims who frequent the shrine, and there is a large school attached to it. The Governor of the Artysh district, Mohamad Khan Khoja, a descendant of Satuk Boghra Khan, received us v^ politely and conducted us to comfortable quarters in the royal ooida. On the following day^ the usual weekly bazar was held at Artysh and we witnessed a lively scene. As we passed through the streets on the day of our arrival, the place looked deserted vrith its closed shops, empty verandahs, and not a soul stirring. To-day everything was changed. About 2,000 people thronged every street and lane, and all intent on business : black- smiths shoeing horses, mending spades and vessels; women seUing cotton, raw and in thread; sheep and oxen being sold, and meat in large quantities hung up for sale. The restaurants opened for the day drove a thriving trade. The most lively scene was in the cloth markets, where merchants from Kashghar were to be seen purchasing*cotton cloths for export to Almaty (Fort Vemoye in Russia). These cloths are of rather coarse texture, but very strong and useful. Hundreds of men were offering these for sale, and the trade though most brisk was conducted in a much less noisy manner and with less haggling than one is accustomed to find ( 18 ) in an Indian bazar. Traders in Rnssian chintzes and Khokand cntlery occupied the verandahs in one street and did business in a more leisurely manner. All transactions were for cash and Tnngas were the circulating medium. The whole business of the market was over and every- body had left the place by early evening. These weekly markets are a remarkable feature in Central Asia. Colonel Yule in his ' Book of Marco rolo/ remarks that " market days are not usual in Upper India or Cabul but are universal in Badakshan and the Oxus Provinces. The bazars are only op^n on those days and the people from the surrounding country then assemble to exchange goods^ generally by barter.^^ Marco Polo in his Chapter LIII. mentions a great market held at a large place on the road to the kingdom of Mien^ when the people of the country round come on fixed days three times a week and bold a market. In the Shan towns visited by Major Sladen^ he found markets held every fifth day. This custom^ he says^ is borrowed from China and is general throughout Western Yunan. Burnes^ in his travels to Bokhara^ mentions arriving at Earran a village 16 miles distant from Kurshee on a market day^ '^ for in the towns of Turkistan^ they hold their bazars on stated days as in Europe. We met many peQple proceeding to the thing, but not a single individual on foot — sSl were equestrians. A stranger is amused at seeing a horse literally converted into a family conveyance^ and a man jogging along with his wife behind him. The ladies are of course veiled like most females in this country : they prefer blue cloths t6 white as in Cabul^ and are sombre looking figures.'' This corresponds very much with the Kashghar custom^ except that the ladies^ who have the reputation of being independent and disposed to have the upper hand^ are not content to ride meekly behind their husbands^ but generally have their own pony^ on which perhaps may be seen paniers full of melons^ on top of which the woman rides astride with a child behind, while the husband follows more humbly mounted on a donkey.*^ Having expressed a desire to see something of Kirghiz life in the interior, we found eveiy arrangement made for a ten-days' trip, by our friend Mohamad Khan Khoja, who sent his yoimger son, Moosa Khan, to take care of us. Moosa Khan is a fine manly intelligent youth of two and twenty, a keen sportsman, and, as we found, a most pleasant companion. Leaving the valley of Artysh, we passed through a gorge into an immense valley which comes down from the Terek pass, and then entered the Tungi Tar or narrow defile as its name implies. Here we found a good line of fortifications erected on a well selected point, where a few resolute men could keep a large body of invaders in check. Passing through this defile, along the frozen river bed, over which the wintry blast came with cutting force, we emerged upon a very broad valley almost wide enough to be called a plain, on the other side of which rose the snow clad peaks of the Aksai range, and we saw the Tian Shan mountains before us in all their glory. It was impossible not to feel a strong thrill when beholding this magnificent scene. On the lofty plateau, and on the nothern slopes, lies Atbashi, the great grazing ground of the Kirghiz tribes, and there was the trysting place of the nomad Chiefs, who every spring, as we are told by the author of the Aozaat-usufa, assem- bled to hold their kwrultaiy or open air parliament, to settle their affairs, and to arrange plans for the summer's campaign. The plain on which we found ourselves was said to be well grassed in summer, but at the time of our visit was covered with snow. Here and there a few scattered domes of mud or sun-dried bricks told the last resting place of Kirghiz Chie&. In the sheltered comer of a valley, a cluster of round felt tents might be seen, and as we rode * Note. — ^In America the conversion of the animal into a £unilv conveyance seems to be more complete than anywhere else, if we may believe the following account given in the Times :— A Family Pony. — " Yesterday," says a Southern Colorado paper, " we saw a man, a woman, a goodsized boy, two babies, five or six blanketo, a buffalo robe, and two strings of chili on a single pony. Every available inch from his ears to the root of his tail waa ' taken/ The poor animal was very small ; thin as a towel rack ; of a sickly, pale colour ; and one fore leg was about five inches shorter than the others — ^the knee joint of that leg was very large, and we supposed that the missing part of the leg was driven in there by the weight above, so that when it was relieved the leg would stretch out again like a turtle s head. l!n fact, nearly all his le^s were short, and the crookedest convention of legs that we ever saw. Taken altogether, it was the most amusmg horse and load we ever saw. Incredible as it may seem, the wiry little animal passed ns on a trot." 1 ( 19 ) through the encampment the elders and the women woald come forward with friendly curi- osity to watch the novel invasion and to offer milk. With ready hospitality they pitched felt tents for our reception^ and kindled large fires, and then began the usual drinking of innumerable cups of tea. At night the cold was in- tense, the thermometer falling to £0 below zero, and was considerably aggravated by a cutting wind which found its way through the well-worn felt walls of the tents. In this way we journeyed for several days, whiling away the time on the march with hawking hares (one hawk killed seven hares' in one morning), till we came to Ayak Sughun, where we joined the direct road from Eashghar to Ush Turfan. Here Captain Trotter and Dr. Stoliczka left us to explore the country in the direction of Ush, and an account of their travels will be found elsewhere. We descended the valley leading to the plain of Artysh and came to the village of Kulti Yailak, and thence returned by Altun Artysh to Kashghar. At Kulti Yailak, while wandering through the dense grass jungle in search of pheasants, we suddenly came upon a splendid wild boar, in size far surpassing any that could be seen in India, and then it was that we had ocular proof of the powers of the burgoot. Flying at his prey he struck tiie boar on the hind quarters with his talons and so completely bothered and per- plexed the animal, that he was brought to bay, when our Kashghar companions with young Moosa Khan at their head eagerly belaboured him with sticks, till he received his coup de grace from a rifle. Hunting with the spear is not known to these people and those which some of our party brought with them in the hope of sport were broken on the road. But pleasant though our sojourn had been at Kashghar, we looked anxiously forward to the time when we could resume our ordinary travels. At one time we had hopes of making an extended exploration of the country in the north-east as far even as Lake Lop. But various reasons combined to prevent the prosecution of these plans, and as all our business had been satisfactorily concluded, and we were a heavy expense to our generous host, I took occasion, soon after our return from Artysh to Kashghar, to press for permission to depart. During our absence from Kashghar, the heir-apparent, Beg-Kuli-Beg, had returned from the north-east frontier, where he had successfully commanded his father's troops in engage- ments at Manass and other places. On my offering to pay my respects to him, an invitation was sent for all the officers to a dyeuner at his house in the fort, at which Syud Yakub Khai^ also was present and acted as Turki interpreter for me, though I may mention that Colonel Gordon and Dr. Bellew, and notably the latter, had acquired a fair knowledge of that language during our stay. Beg-Kuli-Beg is a fine young man of about 27 years, somewhat like his father in build and height. He seemed rather shy at first, but displayed intelligence in his remarks, and was evidently interested to learn all about the first Feringeea whom he had seen. On the 1 6th March we had an interview with the Amir to take formal leave, on which occasion he reiterated his expressions of friendship and his earnest desire to cement the alliance thus favorably begun. On the following day we took our departure from Kashghar, under the usual salute, and were accompanied part of the first stage by Syud Yakiib Khan and Ihrar Khan. On the 18th we reached Yangi Hissar, whence I despatched Lieutenant-Colonel Oordon, Captains Biddulph and Trotter and Dr. Stoliczka to proceed to Wakhan ; Bessaidar Afzul Khan went ahead to announce their approach. I had sent Ibrahim Khan on the 1st January to Cabul with letters to Amir Sher Ali, in the hope that it might have been arranged that the mission should return to India vid Badakshan and Cabul, but was in ignorance of the threatened troubles arising out of the disagreement between the Amir and his son Yakub Khan. Lieutenant-Colonel Gotdon was instructed by me to proceed no further than Wakhan till joined by me, and in the event of an un&vorable reply being received from Affghanistan, to retrace his steps to India by Yarkand and Ladakh. How well Lieutenant-Colonel Gordon carried out the expedition entrusted to his charge will be seen from his own account which is appended to this narrative. ' It is no easy matter to arrange for the transport of so large a pariy as ours was across the Karakorum, and the month which was spent by Dr. Bellew, Captain Chapman and myself at Yangi Hisar was not more than sufficient time to enable me to complete my arrangements. ( 20 ) To Captain Chapman^ in addition to his work as Secretary^ had fallen the duty of provid- ing the carriage and making all other necessary arrangements such as are comprehended in the Quarter-Master-GeneraVs department^ and it is only due to this officer that I should prominently notice the complete success of his careful mimagement. * He thoroughly equipped Lieutenant-Colonel Gordon's party for the Pamir expedition^ and aided by Tara Sing laid out all supplies and provided animals for our return journey to India. Owing to the judicious care taken of our bagagge mules and ponies^ and the strict supervision exercised^ we were able to bring our animals over the severe passes to Ladakh^ not only without serious loss^ but even in fair condition^ thus proving that this journey^ though unquestionably one of the most difficult undertakings^ can be accomplished without any of the disasters which render the Karakorum route so generally abhorred. During a month's stay at Yangi Hissar^ we visited all the places of local interest in the vicinity^ and on one occasion Dr. Bellew accompanied me on an excursion to Oordum Padshah^ one of the most celebrated places of pilgrimage in the country. Riding for three hours in a N.-E. direction through a well cultivated country to the village of Saigoon^ we suddenly were plunged into the great desert. Our route then lay over hilly ground and wide plains. Here and there we saw small wells covered over with huts to protect them from sand storms. The water in all was very brackish. At one well there was a large tomb and kind of hospice^ where the man in charge, following the usual custom, came out with a large loaf of black bread on a trencher, and ofPered tea. At 5 p.h.^ after a ride of 35 miles we came to the shrine of Huzrat Begum, said to be the daughter of a ^ Rum' Padshah. Here we found a regular hospice, with an inner court-yard and four or five rooms for the better class of pUgnms. Outside are numerous rooms in a ^acious court-yard for common folk^ and a separate cluster of houses for the servants of the shrine. The Sheikh, or head of the establishment^ is Shah Muksood, an old man of 87^ very hale and jovial looking. He said he had never been beyond the first village in his life, and certainly therefore could never have tasted a drop of sweet wata:. We learned that there was a ruined city not far ofiE which belonged to Tokta Rashid, an Uigur Chief, and which had been destroyed by Arskn Khan more than 800 years ago. Start- ing next morning with spades and pickaxes, we determined to see what remains of former civilization could be dug up, and after a weary search found broken pieces of pottery, bits of copper, broken glass and China, and two coins, one of which is partly decipherable^ and appears to belong to a very early period. The discovery of glass here is remarkable, for tiiere is none used now-a-days, and the art of making it seems wholly unknown. We then rode in a N.-W. direction for about 1£ miles to Oordum Padshah. Our route lay first over a low sandstone ridge, whence we descended into a genuine sea of sand. The billows of sand, sometimes 50 and 70 feet high, flowed like a storm-tossed sea over the hard desert ; here and there dry land as it were, in the shape of hard soil^ appearing. The invariable direction of the sand was from N.-W. to S.-E. About half way we came to a deserted ' Lungur/ or traveller's rest- house^ partially buried in a huge sand hill which was gradually creeping over it. This Lungur was built about 90 years ago, and has been abandoned for SO years^ but has all the appearance of having been used and kept in fresh repair till lately. Further on we passed one or two more rest-houses with wells of brackish water^ and many buildings partially buried in the sand. Arriving at the shrine we found a spacious oorda^ or royal caravanserai, built of bricks and lime^ with white-washed walls. This had been erected by the present Amir. Here we had excellent accommodation provided for us by old Sheikh Muksood, who told us many interesting tale? of the olden time. He informed us that the sand came from the N.-W. in one steady unvarying line^ and was gradually advancing over the country. A serai which he had built some 30 years ago had been completely buried in one of these sand waves. Arslan Khan is buried here with all his army, who were killed fight- ing with Tokta Rashid, the Uigur Chief, more than 800 years ago. At that time there were habitations and cultivations, now all one sea of sand. It is said that as these sands progress in their course^ cities become buried^ and after centuries of entombment reappear as ihe sand wave passes on. » \ ( 21 ) The buried cities near Khoten and Takla Makan are constantly spoken of ^ and wonderfnl stories are related of the valuable property recovered therefrom. It was not our g^od fortune to visit them^ and travellers' tales must always be accepted cum ffrano, but some good gold coins of Justin and Constantine's time were brought thence to me^ and some gold ornaments similar to those worn by Hindoo women of the present day were dug out of one city^ and we saw quantities of blade bricks of tea which had come from the same locality. We heard ^ust the same kind of stories about the great desert as are related by Marco Polo : — ''There IS a marvellous story related of this desert^ which is^ that when travellers are on the move at nighty and one of them chances to lag behind, or to &11 asleep, or the like, when he tries to join his company again, he will hear spirits talking, and will suppose them to be his comrades. Sometimes the spirits will call him by name, and thus shall a traveller oft times be led astray, so that he never finds his party, and in this way many have perished. Sometimes the stray traveller will hear as it were the tramp and hum of a great cavalcade of people away from the real line of road, and taking this to be their own company, they will loDow the sound and when day breaks they find that a cheat has been put upon them, and that they are in an ill plight. Even in the day time one hears those spirits talking. And sometimes you shall hear tiie sound of a variety of musical instruments and still more commonly the sound of drums.'* Stories are told of showers of sand being rained' down on cities and burying them in an incredibly short space of time. It is said that no animal life is to be found in these inhospi- table tracts, and though the wild camel is said to inhabit the desert, I have never yet come nearer to a verification of the story, than to hear a man say he had met others who had shot it. One witness went so far as to declare he had seen one, and another promised to produce the skin of one, but it was not forthcoming, and the existence of the wild camel is still a problem to be solved for the satisfaction of those who are unwilling to accept popular belief as conclusive evidence. It was near the end of March before the winter broke, and on the 21st of that month the thermometer at night rose above freezing point for the firat time since we left Leh on 29th September. By the middle of April the trees were in full leaf, and the whole country was green with the springing crops. As all cultivation depends entirely on irrigation, great activity is displayed at this season in clearing out the canals and opening out new water- courses. The system of irrigation adopted here seems much akin to that in force in the submontane districts in the Punjab, where the whole management of the canals and the distribution of the water has from time immemorial been in the hands of the villagers, wholly independent of the action of the Oovemment, and if I may be allowed to say so infinitely more efEective ' and popular than where the irri^tion is conducted through oflicial agency. But in one instance I saw workmen, in the vicmity of Yangi Hissar, being employed to construct or restore a canal which brought water to the fort, and as I was passing by towards evening I observed the men seated in knots of 50, receiving their daily hire ; one tunga, about six pence, being given to each. On the Srd May news having come that the proposed plan of a return through Cabul could not be carried out, and that Lieutenant-Colonel Gordon's party were returning to Yarkand, Dr. Bellew, Captain Chapman and I commenced our homeward journey. We reached Yarkand on the 6th, and halted there till the 18th May, in order to receive the letters for Her Majesty and for the Viceroy, which the Amir sent by the hand of our good friend Syud Yakub Khan. He also brought with him an European traveller, M. Berczenczey, who had given himself out on arrivsd at Kashghar as an old friend of mine, but on reaching Yarkand he changed his story, and said he had come to search for the cradle of the Hungarian race. He represented himself as having been ill treated at Kashghar bv the Amir's officials, and as being prevented from pursuing his intention of proceeding vid Aksu and Kara-Shahr to Kokonor. I ascertained that the extent of his ill-treatment was his being placed under surveillance whilst in Kashghar, as he acknowledged that he did not beloug to Russia, England, or Turkey, the only three European nations with whom the Amir had any dealings. .But he acknowledged that he was well fed and clothed, and he certainly was not subjected to more restraint than was experienced by Messrs. Shaw and Hay ward. / ( 22 ) However^ I advised Syud Yaktih Khan to accord to this gentleman perfect liberty. The Syud took occasion^ when we were his guests one day in a charming garden just outside the city^ to ask M. Berczenczey whether he had any g^und of complaint^ and I particularly remarked to him that now was the proper time for him to speak out if he had received any sort of ill-treatment. He expressed himself as perfectly satisfied^ and signed a written paper to this efiEect. Syud Yakub Khan then accorded in writing free permission to the traveller to go where he pleased^ and I assumed that he would pursue his journey to Kokonor. But M. Berczenczey now abandoned the professed object of his visit to Kashgluur^ and begged to be allowed to accompany my camp to India. As this arrangement could not be complied with^ he made his way by the Sanju route to Ladakh^ and I deputed one of my escort to accompany and take care of him^ and provided him with a tent^ ponies^ and supplies. Before leaving Kashghar I had obtained the Amir's consent to my taking the Kogiar route on our return to India. This route had the reputation of being very much shorter and easier than that by Sanju and the Karakash. But it had been closed for many years to travellers^ partly owing to the attacks of the Kunjut robber tribe^ and there was some difficulty at first about supplies. This was however overcome by the energy and ability of Tara Sing^ who^ by purchasing and hiring baggage animals laid out provisions as far as Burtsi^ 14 marches from Kogiar, and to within four days of the fertile Nubra valley in Ladakh. Leaving the old Sanju track at Kargalik we made a march up tbe Kogiar valley and crossing the Topa Dewan^ a short and low pass^ we came into the valley of the Tisnaf stream. Our road thence for four days was up the bed of this river^ at that time swollen by the melting snows to such an extent as to make the frequent passage of the stream a con- stant difficulty and not infrequent danger. We found the Yangi Dewan a very easy pass to ascend^ but on descending the valley on the souths leading to the broad bed of the Yarkand river^ we experienced considerable difficulty in passing our animals over the crevasses of the ice beds which filled the valley. For three days our journey was along the broad Yarkand River, which had to be crossed frequently, but at no point was troublesome. At Aktagh on the 4th June we rejoined the old road between Ladakh and Shahidulla on the Karakash, and thence retraced our last year's steps over the Karakorum. Between the Karakorum and the Sasser Passes, the summer route crosses tiie high Dipsang Plain, and then follows the rocky bed of a stream till the Shyok is reached. Here we were met by Mr. Johnson, the Wazir of Ladakh, who made most complete and comfortable arrange- ments for crossing the Sasser and Digiir Passes, and on the 17th June the head-quarters of the mission entered Leh. Lieutenant-Colonel Gordon's party followed in our wake, and found supplies and all necessaries at each stage. He arrived at Leh on 29th June, but I grieve to have to record the melancholy feet, that when all the difficulties and dangers of a year's travel were just at an end, our friend and companion. Dr. F. Stoliczka, fell a sacrifice to his zeal in the cause of science. On the road to Yarkand last year this intrepid and indefatigable savant endangered his life by over exertion, when pursuing his geological researches at an elevation of nearly 19,000 feet and in spite of intense cold. The journey across the Pamir was a severe trial to his enfeebled constitution, and on reaching the lofty Karakorum Dr. Stoliczka exhibited signs of great distress. Undaunted however by all suffering, and too little heeding the warnings thus given, he overstrained his lungs and heart by toUing on foot up a mountain-side to make some scientific observation, and then, when he consented to be treated as an invaUd, the injury was past all human skill to remedy, and he rapidly passed away. Truly has it been said by His Excellency the Viceroy : — ' " Eminent scientific attainments and great natural abilities were in Dr. Stoliczka combined with persevering industry and enthusiastic devotion to the pursuit of physical science. He had already worthily earned a wide reputation by his work in the Palseontologia Indica. '^ Throughout the scientific world Dr. Stoliczka's loss will be deeply deplored, and nowhere and by none more sincerely than in India and by the Government of India whom he so ably and honorably served.^' Exd.— J. M. CHAPTER IL GENERAL DESCRIPTION OP KlSHGHAR.* Names of the Region. — ^The country now most commonly called K&shghar or E&shgbaria lias at different periods of its history been known under different names. By the early historians of the Arab conquest the country^ which in the time of the ancient Persian sove- reignty was known as Turin or Mulki Tdrt&r^ was generally denominate 1 Turkistdn^ and its different natural divisions were distinguished by appropriate appellations. Amongst these the province now represented by K&shgh&r was called — to distinguish it from the proper Bukh&r& in the corresponding basin to the west — Eichik Bukh&r& or '^Little Bukh&r&/^ and it is described under this name by Juweni^ the author of iheJakdnkushd; though it appears that at the time of the Arab conquest it was generally spoken of either simply as Turkistin or " the country of the Turk/^ or, to distinguish it from the Turkistdn proper — the northern portion of the region populated by that widely extended race — as Bil&d-us-Shirk or *' the eastern cities -" and by Rashiduddin, the Wazir of Ghaz&n Khan and author of the TMkh RashUi, it is called Mashrik Turkist&n or '' Eastern Turkistdn/' The Moghol invasion, without entirely displacing these names, gave it another— -that of Mogholistdn or "the country of the MoghoP — and it was generally known by this name during the period of the nue of the Chaght&y Khans. In the time of the later Princes of that dynasty, however, the name of K&shghar, their capital, came into use to designate the plain country south of the Al&t^h in contradistinction to Mogholist&n proper, which was applied in a more restricted sense to the home of the nomad Moghol on the elevated plateaux of that mountain range and in the valleys at its northern base. And this name of Kdshghar has ever since been the one most commonly used to represent the great basin of the Tdrim River, though other names have been applied to it in whole or in part by foreigners. Thus by the Chinese conquerors — under whose rule it was included in the great western frontier province of Ila — ^it is called Tianshan Nan Lu or "the way south of Tianshan,'' and by modem European authors Chinese Tuikistdn. Finally, by its western neighbours of the present day — ^by Khokand and Bukhdri — ^it has since the period of the Chinese conquest been called Alty Shahr or " the six cities,^' and Yatty Shahr or " the seven cities ;" terms which apply properly only to the western half of the country, in which are situated the six or seven cities to which the Chinese Emperor had cpn- oeded certain privileges of trade and local government on behalf of the Khokand State. And it is by these last names that the province is generally alluded to by the Russians. As has been mentioned in the preceding history of this region, it was in the time of Changiz — when he divided his empire amongst his sons — allotted under the name of Mogho- listan, together with the countries of Turkist&n and M&wardnahar on the west and Kar& Khit&y in the east, to his son Chaght&y. All these countries collectively have been styled " the middle Tartar Kingdom^^ as distinct from the northern and western Tartar Kingdoms which were the portions of his other sons. This Mogholistdn — according to the TdHkhi Rashidi of Mirz& Hydar — was in the time of Chaghtdy also denominated Mangl&y Suba or " Front Province '' or " direction of sunrise. " And its limits are given as from Shdsh or T&hkand on the west to J&lish on the east, and from Isigh Kol on the north to S^gh Uighur on the south. At the same time the limits of K&shghar, according to the same authority, were Shash and the Bolor mountains on the west ,- the country beyond Turf &n to the borders of the Kalm&k territory on the east ; Artosh on the north ; and Khutan on the south. These limits, with the exception of the extension to Sh&sh itself, hold good to the present day ; for the Sh£sh territory extends eastward to Atbdshi on the Upper Ndrin where Artosh begins. * The portions of eectioDs relating to horses, page 71 ; marriage, page 86 ; birth and onirards, page 86 ; women, page 89 ; deaths page 92 ; punishments mmcted in Eastern Torkestan, page 100 ; and Chinese punish- ments, page 101, are by Captain Chapman— the rest by Dr. Bellew. ( 24 ) Geographical position, — As above defined Kashghar is comprised between 86^ and 43^ north latitude, and between 73^ and 92^ east longitude. Between these parallels its limits may be thus described. The north boundary runs obliquely between 39° and 43° north latitude from the Tirik Daw4n in 73° east longitude to Pich&n in 92° east longitude, and is formed by the southern watershed of the Celestial or God Mountains, called Al&t%h (Allah-tagh?), Tangri €la, and Tiansh&n in Turki, Moghol, and Chinese respectively. The south boundary runs obliquely between 38° and 36° north latitude from S&righ Kul or Sirikol in 74° east longitude to Ch&chan of the S&righ Uighur in 83° east longitude, and is formed by the northern slopes of the great Tibet range of mountains which is known in different parts of its extent by the names of Kuenlun or '' Blue Mountains/' Sunglun or " Onion Mountains/' Kardkoram or " Black Shale/' and the Muztdgh or " Ice Mountains " of Bolor. The east boundary cuts the parallels of 92° and 85° of east longitude from Pich&n on the north to Chdchan on the south between the parallels of 43° and 36° north latitude, and presents an undefined border formed by the shifting sands of the Oobi Desert. The west boundary cuts the parallels of 73° and 74° east longitude from Tirik Daw&n on the north to S&righ Kul on the south between 40° and 37° north latitude, and is formed by the eastern slopes of the Alky and Pamir plateaux and the eastern watershed of the Bolor mountains or Bolort&gh. These are the natural geographical boundaries of K&hghar, or the valley of the Tdrim River^ and they closely correspond with the present political limits of the country. Superficial extent — As above limited, the greatest leng^-of K&shghar, from Tirik Dawdn to Pichdn along its northern frontier, is about a thousand miles. Its least length, from Sirigh Kul to Chdchan along the southern border, is about five hundred miles. Its greatest breath, from Turf&n to Ch&chan on the eastern frontier, is about five hundred miles. And its least breadth, from Tirik Daw&n to Tdshkorghdn in S&righ Eul on the western boundary, is about a hundred and fifty miles. Area in square miles, — If we multiply the means of the above assumed measurements of length and breadth, we shall get 243,750 square miles as an approximate representation of the area of K&shghar. But it must be borne in mind that by very much the greatest part of it is an uninhabited waste, as is to be described presently. Comparative topography, — Kdshghar is separated from the neighbouring regions on the north, the west, and the south by the lofty highland ranges of the great mountain system of the Asiatic continent, and on the east is divided off from China by the desert of Oobi. In the time of the Chinese rule it formed the southern division of the Ha province which included the great basins on the north and south of the Ti&nshdn range, and was limited on the east and west by the vast deserts of Gobi and Kapchak respectively. The division to the north of the separating range is called by the Chinese Tianshan Pek Luy or '^ the way north of the Celestial Moun^ins/' and by the Moghol natives Zungh&r — the Songaria of European writers. Similarly the division to the south of the range is called Tianshan Nan Zu, or " the way south of the Celestial Mountains,^ and K&shghar by the Chinese and Moghol respectively. The former division lies between the Altai — ^the great mountain range of Mongolia — and the Ti&nsh^, and drains westward to the desert of Kapoh&k. Whilst the latter, with which only we are here concerned, lies between the Ti&nsh&n and the Kuenlun — ^the great mountain range of Tibet — an4 drains ea8t?rard to the desert of Oobi. On its north are the Russian possessions of Turkist&n, and the Tiirgut country of the Yulduz and Orumchi Kalm&k — the Zungh&r above referred to. On its west are the Khanate of Khokand, and the independent petty chiefships of Kar&takin, Shighn&n, and Bosh&n, and the Afghan held province of Badakhsh&n, with the elevated plateaux of Pdmir, Kizil Art, and Al&y intervening. On its south are the Kashmir provinces of Lad&kh and B<ist&n, or Bolor, on the one hand, and Great Tibet or Hlassa or ticking on the other. And on its east, beyond Gobi, is the Chinese province of K&nsuh. 5-— The Nubra Valley from Panamik, looking S. E. Buddhist Chortens in the foreground. -Buddhist temple at Panamik, Gods of the Buddhists,— i.—Chakna Durge; Chingre Zik ; 4.— Dekhna Karpo, goddess. — SangiasShukiaTuba; 3.— Pakpa ( 25 ) . Piy9ieal/eati$re8. — ^The prevailing character of the region thus sarrounded is a vast plain surface extending east and west. But it may he conveniently described under the natural divisions of Highland^ Lowland^ Desert^ Swamp^ and Lake. And we will now briefly notice each in turn. Highland. — ^This portion is constituted by the elevated plateaux and deep valleys of the lofiy mountain barriers which form three sides of its area^ and is characterized as much by the rigour of its climate as by the nakedness of its hills. Glaciers are found on its more elevated ranges^ and there is everywhere an absence of forest trees. Nevertheless its glens and hollows are the home of numerous tribes who are mostly nomads in their habits — ^who during the winter nestle in the nooks and sheltered gullies that border on the lowlands, and in summer migrate with their flocks and herds to roam over the rich pastures that sprout so soon as the snow melts off the wide plateaux or steppes which buttress the main ranges. The peculiar features of these highlands are the general barrenness of the hill slopes and the narrowness of the channels by which they drain into the central plain or basin^ not less than the steppes of rich pasture and tablelands of inhospitable waste which constitute the progressively higher parts of the several mountain ranges up to their water-sheds. The mineral resources of these tracts are not well known, though there is ample evidence to prove that the rocks contain rich veins of the most useful and precious metals, besides mines of some highly prized minerals. These will be noticed in detail hereafter under the head of Natural Productions. The vegetable kingdom is, as a rule, very sparsely represented, and, except on the northern slopes of the AUtigh^-which indeed is beyond the limits of the country — ^there is a notable absence of forest trees everywhere. The deep valleys through which the mountains drain^ however, and th^ elevated steppes or plateaux between their parallel ridges are clothed with a more or less rich vegetation which in some respects is peculiar to the region. - In the valleys, along the river courses, it is met with in the form of thickets of brush- wood which line the banks in narrow belts with patches of tall! reed grass interspersed ; or where, as in the higher altitudes, the river courses expand into wide and more level channels, it is found in long island strips in the river bed itself. The composition of these brushwood thickets varies in different localities, but the characteristic and most generally diffused plants are species of tamarisk, myricaria and buckthorn ; different species of the willow, the poplar and the rose ; the dwarf juniper, arbor vitoe, with several species of the astragalus, and some of the barberry. Varieties of hedysarum, sedum, clematis, &c., and many other plants of herbal growth are found in the lower valleys where, too, pasture is the most abundant, and the poplar and the willow grow as forest trees in small clumps of few or many. For the rest the mountains may be described as a vast wilderness of desolation with glaciers on the highest ranges and snow for half the year on the next subordinate ridges; Animal life at these elevations is most scarce if not absent entirely. The wild oii=cutdi, ike ihen^taiia, two speciea oi wild sheep — the ovis Poli=^ii»^a, and ovis Ammon^^rdds — and a species of antelope s=;Yra» haunt the snow line where, too, the marmot =migAur, and rats of sorts have their burrows. In the more sheltered glens, lower down the river courses, are found the wild horee= culdn, and the hsixe=zcuydn. The heskT=^arik is found on the AUt^gh, where it is said to dig out and devour the marmot whilst in its state of hybernation, and troops of wolves=:=i(7r/ with the stealthy leopard =ca/?a» hunt on the Atbashi j>lateaux of Al&t&gh and the P&mir of Bolortdgh where the wild sheep do most abound. Birds are represented by the solitary raven and the only less so chough at the highest altitudes, where too the eagle loves to soar. In the lower valleys the Orecian or red-legged partridge =Ki/}'^ is common everywhere, as are sparrows, finches, larks, wagtails, tits, rock martins, &c., &c., but the snow pheasant sci^^r is only found at the snow line. Latdland, — ^This division comprises the belt of hill skirt lying at the base of the bounding ranges, and varies in width in different localities. It is the most populous part of the country^ and is the only portion of it which is permanentiy settled and cultivated. In it are situat^ all the cities and towns of the country together with their respective suburban settlements. ( 26 ) In its general aspect this division partakes of the characters of the two others between which it forms the connecting medium — of the hills on one side and of the desert on the other. Near the former it presents an uneven sur&ce on which are prolonged the subsiding terminal o&hoots of spurs from the mountain boundaries till they merge into the general level of the plain. Whilst towards the latter it rapidly expands into an undulating plain which insensibly sinks and becomes continuous with the desert. The soil everywhere is characterized by its aridity and barrenness. Contiguous to the hills it consists of stony detritus intermixed with rolled boulders ; further off it becomes coarse gravel ; and finally, on the verge of the desert it assumes the form of pure sand. Everywhere it is more or less highly charged with salines which in the depressions of the undulating surface form sheets of white efflorescence, or spongy encrustations on which flourish a variety of saltworts. In many places these salines retain sufficient moisture to form mud bogs and marshes on which grow coarse reeds and dwarf tamarisks. But the peculiar features of this tract are the numerous rivers which traverse its surface to their point of ultimate junction with the main stream — the Tirim River — ^which is the great drainage channel for the whole country. They are the seats of the fixed population and the entire productive industry of the country. Their number and names are many as they issue from the mountains on three sides of the basin, but they all converge at different points to form four principal rivers which are named after the settlements founded upon them. They ape the Khutan, Yirkand, Kishghar, and Aksd Bivers; and they all converge and unite far out on the desert to the south of Aksu to form the T&rim River, which afterwards receives as tributaries the KucbA and K£idu Rivers and thus completes the drainage of the valley. These streams in their passage across this tract mostly flow in wide channels between low banks of sand. The larger ones flow upon firm pebbly bottoms, and the smaller ones in a bed of sand. The volume of their streams varies according to the seasons. Thus in winter even the largest of them are so much shrunk as to be crossed dry footed by stepping from stone to stone; whilst the smaller ones, which are mostly bridg^, are at this season generally frozen over. In summer on the contrary they are all so swollen by the melting snows, that they fill the whole of their wide channels and, as in the case of the Y^rkand River, form a stream nearly a mile broad and only passable by boat. None of these rivers is navigable, but they are otherwise profitably utilized for purposes of irrigation. Numerous canals are drawn off &om them to the lands on each side, and thus convert considerable tracts of what would otherwise be desert waste into fertile and populous settlements. The extent of these is at present limited, but were the means existing fully developed a much wider area might be settled and brought under cultivation. All these rivers contain fish, and in the case of the larger streams they are a source of food to the inhabitants on their banks. Some of them, as the rivers of Ehutan, yield the jade stone which in the time of the Chinese proved a source of considerable wealth to the country. And others, as the Y&rkand or Zarafsh&n=''Oold disperser,'' yield gold. Under the Chinese rule its sands were washed for the precious metal ; but now this industry in com- mon with others has quite died out. Desert. — ^This division occupies the whole of the K&shghar basin beyond the lowland belt skirting the mountains, and as the two insensibly merge a line of demarcation is not easily recognized. In general aspect it presents a vast undulating plain of sand which slopes gently to the eastward. Its elevation is estimated to vary between 2,600 feet at Lob Nor and 4,000 feet on the Y&rkand border. Its surface is traveraed by the four rivers which go to form the T^rim, and by that stream itself. The banks of these rivers are fring^ by broader or narrower belts of forest composed mainly of poplar, willow and tamarisk, amongst which is an impenetrable growth of tall reeds. In the covert of these thickets lurk the tiger, leopard^ lynx, and wolf, together with the wild pig ; and a species of stag— called bocd or d«^ia for the male, and mardl for the female — ^pastures on thcdr skirts. Further out in the desert towards the east, the high banks and sand dunes which break the uniformily of its level towards the west lud south either disappear or greatly diminish ■■^\ -—>-'■ 7. — Crossing the Sasser Pass, Breakfast above Tooti Aylak, elevation 16,300 feet. / ^ A' ' i ^ ■ ■ ^._J -Ji S.^^amp at Shahidulla Khwoja, the frontier outpost of Yarkund Territory towards Kashmir, 22nd Oct. 1873. ( 27 ) in height^ and then the riyer spreads broadcast over the surface forming wide lagoons or marshes^ belted by reeds and tamarisk brushwood^ till the waters again find a defined channel between banks. And this occurs at intervals over an extent of some three hundred miles beyond which the river flows in a clear channel five days' journey in length to the Lake Lob. The greatest portion of this desert tract is an unmitigated waste with a deep coating of loose pulverulent salines on which only the wild camel finds a footing. Horses cannot traverse it owing to their sinking knee-deep in the soft soil; whilst to man the dust raised proves suffocating, and the glare from the snow white salts blinding. The only parts that are inhabited are the immediate banks of the T^rim Biver, and the angles of junction formed by its tributaries from Euchi and Kar^jshahr. The latter is a considerable river called Ki[id^. It drains the Yuldtiz valley and at Kar^hahr falls into the Lake Baghr^sh — the Bost^ng of the maps. From this it issues to the south and, winding round the west of the Kurugh T£gh sand hills which separate its lake from that of Lob, at seven days' journey from the city joins the T^m. At its point of junction a road goes across the desert to Khutan, but to the east of it are the lagoons and marshes abovementioned. For two or three hundred miles on this part of its course the Tirim River is the seat of some primitive tribes who dwell in reed huts on its banks and in boats upon its stream. They will be described hereafter under the head of inhabitants of the country. It may be here noted as a remarkable object on this desert tract that on the road to Khutan south of this peopled district of Lob is the site of an ancient city of that name now buried in sand; and at three days' journey further to the south are the ruins of Elatak, another ancient city of this region, which has been overwhelmed by the shifting sands. During our stay in the countiy we had an opportunity of witnessing the manner in which such a catastrophe is brought about. Whilst the embassy was halted at Yangi Hissar we paid a visit to the shrine of Ordim P&dshah in the Kum Shahid^n or " Martyrs' Sands" on liie verge of the desert, and there saw some buildings actually undergoing the process of submergence by the shifting sands. It is effected in this wise. During the spring and summer months a north or north-west wind prevails. It blows with considerable force and persistence for many days consecutively. As it sweeps over the plain it raises the impalpable dust on its surface, apd obscures the air by a dense haze resembling in darkness a November fog in London ; but it drives the heavier particles of sand before it, and on the subsidence of the wind they are left on the plain in the. form of ripples like those on a sandy beach washed by an ebbing current. In process of time under the continued action of this wind the ripples grow in size, and at the same time progress gradually over the plain in the direction of the wind. As they grow in size the more defined and uniform becomes their shape, and the more exact their direction with that of the wind. At Ktim Shahlddn these moving sands presented a most remarkable uniformity in their direction and in the regularity of their wave lines. The wave lines were formed by a series of three to six or more semilunes ranged over the plain in rows one behind the other in the direction whence the wind blew, that is, to the north or north-west. All the semilunes in eveiy series and in all the rows exactly resembled each other in eveiy particular except dimensions, and all faced the direction to which the wind blew, that is to the south or south-east. Each semilune towards the north or north-west sloped up gently from the plain, and reached its greatest height — from twelve to sixty or eighty feet — ^m the centre of the curve which faced to the south or south-east. From this centre the loose sand sloped down gently along b ( 28 ) the projecting horns of the crescent to the plain^ but in the arc of the crescent itself the drop was very sudden, as shown in this diagram : — The wind blowing from N. drives the loose sand np to S., beyond which it topples over and passes down i^e slope out of its further action. And a continuance of this process, without changing the form, is always shifting its particles from the direction of N. to that of S., and thus advancing the sand across the plain. From some partially buried buildings we examined at this place, and from the data fur- nished to us regarding the period of their construction, and the distance of the sand dunes at the time, we calculated that these sands were advancing over the plain between S. and S.E. at the rate of about a foot a year or rather more at this spot. But from similar data regarding a half submerged post-housci eight miles off to the south, we calculated the rate of advance at fully three feet a year at that spot. This post-house occupied the summit of a low mound on the plain (the surface of which here presented a wide shallow hollow encrusted with salines and covered with reeds, as appeared in the intervals between the suc- cessive rows of sand waves) which had a very distinct slope towards a great drainage gully some few miles further to the south ; and this inclination of the ground may account for the more rapid rate of advance at this spot, though the varying force of the wind would not be without its aiding effects. From these instances it may be concluded that the rate of advance of these moving sands is a varying measure dependent on the velocity of the wind and the nature of the sur&ce ; and that under any circumstances the process is a gradual one. Consequently it may be assumed that the burial under them of the cities of Lob and Katak — though a sudden catas- trophe for individual houses as they successively became overwhelmed — was on the whole a slow process extending over many years, and thus afforded the inhabitants ample leisure to abandon their doomed abodes and migrate to safer localities. This view is supported by an incidental reference to a whirlwind of sand which sub- merged a considerable portion of the city of Katak about the middle of the 14th century in the TdHkhi Raahidi of Mirz& Hydar. In his account of this storm he describes the sand as falling from the sky as does a shower of rain ; and probably it was blown off the overtower- ing sand dunes which in their progressive advance had encroached upon the outer walls of the city. But beyond recording the flight of two or three individuals from the limited area of this convulsion of nature he does not mention any general exodus of the population, though he alludes to the circumstance of their having been frequently warned to depart from the city doomed to destruction. And this indicates that the impending calamity was foreseen and its nature understood. Wandering shepherds and huntsmen who now frequent the vicinity of these buried cities report that the houses and domes and minarets of Katak are seen to reappear from under the sands in all their pristine perfection ; and they tell marvellous tales of the undisturbed repose and uninjured state of their furniture and contents ; and they even describe the skeleton forms of the occupants as still retaining the exact positions they happened to be in at the time they were overwhelmed, by the sudden fall and subsidence of some great encroaching sand dune most probably, the regular form of whose loose agglomeration of particles was broken by the obstruction to its symmetrical advance offered by the house it buried in its own dissolution and subsidence. This, I may here note, is easily understood from what we witnessed at Kdm Sh&hid^n. Here we saw a sand wave of three contiguous semilunes which in its advance across the plain had come upon the court wall of a tenement in the way of its progress. One of the side semilunes which overtopped the wall by Ave or six feet had broken over its ( 29 ) obstmction and half filled the court area with the loose sand of its substance ; whilst the other two not so obstructed continued their steady advance in unbroken form by the side of the tenement. In illustration of the carelessness with which we found this accustomed danger treated it is worthy of note that we saw the house thus threatened with submergence actually occupied by its tenants^ although the sands had approached to within a few feet of its verandah. Doubt- lass had the sand dune met the back of the house and broken over its roof, instead of over its front court wall, the occupants would have been entombed in their dwelling, as were those of Katak, according to the veracious statements of the imsophisticated shepherds of the country. These wanderers about Katak further state that the houses, &;c., of the buried city which they have seen reappear from under the sand are no longer to be found when they again visit the place in their migrations, though their position is recognized by the minaret tops project- ing from the fresh sands under which they have passed. This, too, is easily to be understood if we remember that the sand travels in wave lines the rows of which follow each other at intervals of twenty or thirty to a hundred yards. The first line will break over an obstructing house and buiy it; but, the wind continuing, its loose particles are driven on and resume their original form on the' clear ground beyond ; whilst the submei^ed house reappears from under the advancing wave till it is again buried by the one next following it; and so on with the successive rows until the whole of the moving sands have passed on beyond its site. Consequently, in process of time, provided the sands be limited in extent, the buried cities of Lob and Katak ought to reappear in the world much in form of their first state when submerged some four hundred years ago. With the requisite data an interesting calcidation could be made as to the period when this resurrection might be expected to occur. Unfortu- nately for this we have no knowledge of the extent of the moving sands in their vicinity. Those of Ktim Shahid^n extend across the plain in an unbroken series of wave lines for about fifteen miles from east and north-east to west and south-west and have a width of about eight miles more or less from north and north-west to south and south-east from Ord^m Pidshah towards Yangi Hiss^; and within these limits they cover an area of about a hundred and twenty square miles. Till all this has moved on to the east of the site of Ordim P^hah the shrine is not free from the risk of submergence — the fate that has long since overtaken the city of that name which is said to have been buried eight hundred years ago ; though we could get no history of the occurrence. Whilst on the spot we could find no traces of this buried city, but as the sands extend many miles eastward of the shrine on to the desert they may be there, inasmuch as we were assured there was such a buried city albeit none of our informants could indicate the site. Swamp, — ^This natural division of the country with the next that is to be described forms one of the characteristic features of the general aspect of the preceding division or desert tract, and taken as a whole constitutes no small portion of its genend area. The swamp or marsh land is principally concentrated on the course of the T^rim River in the eastern part of its course before it joins Lake Lob. Little is known r^farding this tract, owing to its inaccessibility, beyond that it extends over two or three hund^ miles of country from west to east, and that the Tirim River passes through it to Lake Lob. It is described as a vast expanse of impenetrable reeds fringed by a forest belt of poplar and tamarisk trees. The people of Lob are said to move about the swamps in their boats, and find a way through them in five days to the lake. They are said to yield great abimdance of fish, on which the people mainly subsist, and to swarm with water-fowl of all sorts, as well as musquitoes and venomous gnats, together with other horrid insects and snakes. The white swan and a species of otter are also found here, and their skins are articles of barter between the Lob people and the traders of Ktich^ and Ear^hahr. A certain number of otter skins also form part of the annual tribute paid by these people to E^hghar. There is no cultivation here nor any fixed settlement. The people live in transportable leed-frame huts or in boats, and possess great herds of homed cattle. The produce of these ( 30 ) and of the chase constitutes their entire wealthy as will be described hereafter. The shores of these marshes produce a rich pasture^ and the reed belts around harbour great numbers of wild pigy wolves, leopards, and tigers. The climate of this tract is described as extremely insalubrious to strangers though not so to the natives. The heat in summer is said to be very great, but the winter, as compared with the rest of the valley, is a mild season and frosts last only for a few days. Besides this great swamp tract in the eastern part of the valley there is another similar tract of considerable extent on the shores of the Baghrdsh Lake near Kar^hahr to the north. The two are separated by the Kurugh T£gh range of sand hills, amongst the ridges of which the wild camel=^i^a is said to breed. On the western half of the plain there are numberless minor swamps and marshes scattered about on the hollows of the surface. Some of these assume the form of pools or small lakes and are called £ol=Ij3ke by the natives, as Ay Kol on the Aksu road, &c. Lake. — Like the swamps the lakes are in the eastern half of the valley, and very littie is known about them. Three principal ones are spoken of, viz., Baghr&sh, Lob, and Karya. Baghrdsh is situated to the south and east of Kar^hahr, and receives the K&idd Biver as it debouches from the Tulduz vulley on to the Ki[shghar plain, and gives it exit to join the T&nm Biver, which it does at a point seven days' journey from Kar^sh^ by winding round Kurugh Tigh, a wide rang^ of clay and sand hills that separate this lake from the district of Lob. The Lake Baghrd.sh, also called Kiidu Kol, may be considered as a mere expansion of the K^idu Biver over a hollow basin in the way of its course. It is described as a shallow sheet of water six days' journey in length, covered with floating islands of reeds amongst which the river flows, and bcMrdered on each side by a belt of tall reeds, poplars, and tamarisk trees. Along its southern shore in all its length runs the Kurugh T£gh ridge, and between the two is a road from Kurla to l/sh Akt£l^a journey of seven days. Lob Lake is described as situated on the edge of the Oobi desert at the extreme east limit of the Elishghar plain. In the TdrikM Rashidi oi Mirz£ Hydar it is mentioned as covering an area four months' journey in circuit, and as giving exit to the great Kar^ Morin Biver of China. In this calculation of its extent the swamp tract to the west would seem to be included. Whilst at Kitshghar I made enquiries regarding this lake from some Kirghiz and Kalm&k shepherds who professed to be familiar with the locality, and also from some of the Amir's officers who had visited Lob district during the Turfin campaign. The accouuts of all, though varying consi- derably in details, corresponded remarkably as to the facts of the existence of the lake, and its connection with the swamps to the west, and as to the general characteristics of the place and people. My most intelligent informant was a native of Kar^shahr who had visited the Lob settlement on the T^rim just below the junction of the Kdidu Biver repeatedly during five suc- cessive years. His description may be briefly given thus — " Lob is a succession of lakes along the T^nm Biver. Each lake gives off five or six streams which spread over the plain and reunite lower down to form the next lake, and so on for a journey of thirty days by the road. Beyond this is the Great Desert of which nobody knows anything. All the lakes are fringed by reedy marshes and forests of tamarisk and poplar, but there are no willows. The people live in huts of wattle or in boats on the river. They are rich in cattie, sheep, and horses, but do not culti- vate the soil, which is all sand, and forms undulating ridges between the several lakes and the forests on their shores. Tigers, wolves, and wild pig abound in the thickets, and fish are plen- tiful in the river. Venemous insects, and a large species of scorpion swarm all over the place.'' Another intelligent informant was a Kirghiz of K^ksh^l. He had travelled all over Ha and Kdnsuh during nearly thirty years, and was in Bajin or Pekin at the time the city was taken by the allied French and English armies in 1860. He had resided as a shepherd for three years at Lob itself and professed to know every settlement in the whole tract. His statements on this subject correspond in the main with those of the informant above quoted, and add thereto the following particulars: — " Lake Lob or Lop Kol is situated in a great salt desert. It is entirely uninhabited, and is five days' journey in circuit. Nobody can go more than three or four days' journey to the east of the lake owing to the depth of the soft powdery saline soil on which neither man nor beast can find a footing. ( 31 ) From the lake a river goes oat to the south-east across an immense desert of this salt and sand. At fifteen or twenty days' journey it passes under a mountain and re-appears on the other side in China or Khiti. In olden times a young man of Lob went in his boat to explore the river beyond the lake. After going down the stream for seven days he saw a mountain ahead^ and on going closer found the river entered a frightful black and deep chasm in the rocks. He tried to stop his boat^ but the swiftness of the current carried it into the chasm. At its further end he saw a small black hole under the mountain^ and had only time to lie down in the bottom of his boat when it was drawn into this dark passage. The top of the boat scraped the roof of the channel^ and bits of stone continually fell upon him. After a long time he emei^ped from the darkness into light and found the bottom of his boat strewed with nuggets of gold. He went down the river for some days and landed in a country where the people had only one eye, and this one eye was in the middle of the forehead^ and brighter than any two of other people. He wandered amongst them for six years and was then seized by some Ehiti soldiers and taken prisoner to B&jin. He lived there many years^ and gradually worked his way back with caravans stage by sts^ to Omol and Earishahr^ and finally returned to his own home an old grey bearded man after an absence of 22 years. All this is quite true, and is known to everybody in Lob, where this man's descendents still live in the settlement of Arimahalla or Arimyla as it is called. It is at the jimction of the Aksu and Kdchi Biver with the T&mn." Earya Lake or Karya Eol is similar in general characters not to those above described, but to the lesser lakes on the western half of the plain. It is said to be situated on the desert south-west of Lob on the road to Ehutan, beyond an intervening tract of sand hills, and to receive the Earya River. It has no outlet, and in seasons of drought becomes a mere boggy marsh. Its shores are covered with reeds and thickets of tamarisk and poplar, and are fr^uented by shepherds who camp here for the sake of the pasture. Its reeds are the breeding place of innumerable wild fowl. Such are the chief phyidcal features and natural divisions of the Eishghar territory, and that their peculiarities materially determine the character of its climate and the nature of its seasons will be readily understood. But before we proceed to consider these it will be profit- able first to describe the political divisions of the country, because the artificial changes wrought in them by the industry of man are not entirely without their share of influence in modifying the effects of natural causes. Political divisions. — The present political or governmental divisions of the Eishghar territory are the same as those of ancient times, and have been determined by the natural features of the country. They are all separated from each other by greater or less strips of intervening arid desert waste ; and each within its own limits forms a separate little State, with its capital, and district towns, and rural settlements, the position, number and extent of which are dependent on the course and distribution of its water supply. Each little State too, not- withstanding the corrupting effects of foreign rule and int^mixture, has its own peculiarities of dialect, of dress, of social customs, and domestic habits. During a prolonged government under a single rule the intercommunication between neighbouring States operates to blend or obliterate these peculiarities, and consequently the distinctions are not so readily observable between adjoining States as between those more widely separated. Yet they are observable as a relic of the isolation that prevailed prior to and during the rule of the Chaght^y Ehans, when in the recurring periods of anarchy of that time each little State formed an independent principality at war with its neighbour, and was supported entirely by its own internal resources of food, clothing, and means of d^ence. Moreover, although under the Chinese rule the movements of troops and trade caravans backwards and forwards all over the country afforded the people of the several States greater facilities of intercommunication than they ever enjoyed before or have found available since, the natural obstacles of the road were sufficient to deter any but men bound on business from the risks, and fatigues, and expenses of the journey. Consequently even under favouring conditions the social isolation of these States has been only a degree less than their local isolation. ( 32 ) In general appearance and plati of arrangement all these little States bear a common resemblance. Thus each has its central fortified city or capital with its suburbs more or less extensive, its district or market towns^ and its rural settlements^ and around all its little frontier outposts. In each the capital alone is fortified and surrounded by walls. The market towns or b^z^rs are^ as the name indicates^ mere markets thronged on the market day and deserted for the rest of the week, except of course by the permanent residents, who are mostly tradesmen, victuallers, and handicraftsmen. Their open collection of tenements g^radually expand^ and in clusters of two or three or more spr^ far and wide along the water-courses around, and form the rural settlements. These consist of a number of scattered homesteads along the main canal or river of the settlement, and each homestead is surrounded by its own fields and orchards, and gardens and vineyards. They thus spread over a considerable tract of country which, from the willows, poplars, seleagnus, and mulberry trees planted along the water- courses, wears the appearance of population and plenty. Each of these settlements is separated from the next by an intervening strip of waste land varying in width from only a few hundred yards to twelve or more miles, in which latter case the waste becomes blank desert. The produce of these settlements is carried weekly to the market towns for barter and thence to the capital, which is the seat of trade and manufacture. The rural settlements, it will thus be seen, are purely agricultural j the market towns mere centres of exchange, though not exclusively so, for some have special industries — as iron smelting at Kizili — besides the trades supported by the market people; and the capitals the recipients of their produce. The separation of the homesteads in the rural settlements, and the isolation of these from their neighbours proves most advantageous in respect to police and hygiene. It prevents combination for tumult or sedition, and operates to render the peasantry unusually docile and timid if not entirely peaceable ; and whilst it checks the growth of epidemics and spread of contagion, it affords the people the most favourable conditions for maintaining good health, a blessing which they in fact enjoy as freely as most people similarly situated. On the other hand, however, this arrangement proves nugatory as regards self-defence against an org^ized army, or small disciplined force ; but rather favours the enemy who has effected his entrance by placing at his disposal just the supplies he requires for the maintenance of his troops engaged in besieging the capital. It is owing to iJiese cir- cumstances, coupled with the unwarlike character of the peasantry, that the country has always succumbed quickly to the arms of the invader, and in times of anarchy been the easy prey of adventurers, till partitioned off into independent little principalities under local chiefs who ruled within the limits of their own petty States as sovereign lords, or who confederated with their neighbours under an acknowledged head to repel a foreign foe, or to check the ambition of an internal rival. With these preliminary remarks on the general characters and arrangements of all the petty States comprising the Kdshghar territory, we will now proceed to describe them severally in detail. They are in the order of their sequence, on the lowland tract skirting the moun- tains that bound three sides of the country, Khutan, Y^rkand, Y£ngi Hiss^r, K^shghar, iTch Turf^n, Aksii, Kuch^, Kiirla, Kar^shahr, and Turf&n. There are besides the highland district of S^righ Eul, the desert military post and Dolan settlement of Mar^lb^hi, and the swamp colony of Lob. And finally, there are the Kirghiz steppes of AUt^h and P^mir, and the mountain retreats of the aboriginal Pakhp(iluk of Mtiztdgh. Khutcm. — ^This little State is situated at the northern base of the Kuenlun mountain, and includes the deep valleys which drain its slopes into the river on which the capital stands. It has from remote times been in more or less continuous communication with China either as a tributary ally or a subject State, and has from the earliest ages been celebrated for its musk and its silk, for its gold and its jade. According to Remusat, its ancient Chinese name was Kiu-sa-tan-na from the Sanskrit Eustani='^Pap of the World,^' and at different periods it has been described in the annals of that empire under the names of lu-thian, lu-tun, lu-siun, Hou-an-na, Ehiou-tan, and Hou-tan. In the tenth century, at the time of the Baghra Khan crescentade, it was called Chin or Michin by the Musalmans, and its capital dunshahr or ^^ Chin City.'' At the ( 33 ) present day it is locally known as Ilchi or Ilsa^ and the name is applied in a restricted sense to the capital city in distinction to the fort or military city adjoining it. But the whole State is known as Ehutan or Alty Shahri Khatan='' Six cities of Kbutan^' from the six towns composing it^ viz,, Ilcbi, Kox&k&Bh, Yurungkish^ Chira^ Karyd or Kiry^^ and N£ya. Each of these townships^ to which is added a seventh called Koh-t£gh ^r Kur^nghot^gh^ forms a separate goTcmment under a Beg^ who is subordinate to the H£kim Beg or *' Ruling Beg " at the capital. CoUectiyely the population of these several townships is reckoned at 18^000 houses^ and they are distributed as follows. Ilchi or Khutan^ the capital^ 6^000 houses. Close opposite is the Gulb^gh Fort^ which in the time of the Chinese had a garrison of 2^000 men. The city is walled and stands on the Khutan river^ on both banks of which are its suburbs. Its people are mostly Turk and Tdrt£rs with a considerable mixture of foreign bloody principally Chinese ; and amongst them are settled many emigrants from Andij&n or Khokand^ together with natives of Tibet^ Kashmir^ and the Punjab^ and also of Kabul. There is besides a small fluctuating population of merchant traders. The principal manufactures of the city are silk fabrics^ carpets^ and a coarse cotton cloth called iMm. These^ together with the other chief products of the country^ viz., gold^ jade- stone^ musk^ raw silk^ and raw cotton^ form the staples of its trade and its most valuable exports. Under the Chinese rule all these industries flourished, and attracted a large number of merchants to the country ; but, with the exception of the cotton trade, they are now all in a very knguishing state, owing, it is said, to the great number of workmen who perished in the late massacres and wars. A trustworthy resident of the city who had witnessed the whole revolution, from the overthrow of the Chinese to the establishment of the Amir, informed me that the whole country was now completely impoverished, and that it had lost nearly half of its male population. His account of the state of trade was much thus — " The jade trade, which formerly supported several thousand families in its collection and manufacture, had now entirely disappeared. So the gold mines, which under the Chinese employed whole settlements, are now deserted, excepting only one or two which are worked as a close monopoly by the Amir. The carpet trade has similarly declined, and the rare productions of gold wire, silk, and wool combined, which under the Chinese f oimd eager competitors, are now never seen, for there is nobody left to buy them. The cotton industry is the only one that flourishes, for we must all wear clothes, and the iAdm (a sort of buckram) which the weavers turn out is so cheap and durable that everybody buys it. The silk is good enough, though not to compare with that of Andijin ; but where i&n men wore it before hardly one can afford to do so now.^' Kar&k^sh. This is a settlement of 1,000 houses on the lower course of the river of that nam^, scattered in clusters of three or four homesteads together. In this district there are both jade and gold mines, and the people have lots of horses and cattle. Yurungk^h, 1,000 houses. It comprises several settlements on the Khutan River between the city and the mountains. At Jiy&, which is a collection of 160 homesteads on the sandy plain, about 4 task from the mountains, a good deal of silk is produced ; and at Kumbdt and Tiishmalik, two small villages in the hills about 4 tasi from Yurungkish, there are jade quarries and gold diggings. Knr£nghot£gh, 1,600 houses. This district comprises several glens on the upper course of the Kliutan River up to its sources on the Kang Daw^n, and 1$ contiguous to the northward with Yumngk^sh. Its principal settlements are Chorash, Chamand, Amb^r, Chuk^r, Achyin, Sokty^, and Zabir^ or Mazir Chir Imim. They are all in separate glens, and Chorash is the residence of the Beg. From Chamand to Kang Daw&n is a day's journey to the south-west with no habitation. Oold is washed in streams from the mountain, but only in summer. In this direction too is Chdkil; it is four days' journey from Ilchi, and the boundary of its territory, for there is no road beyond it as the mountains here join those of Karikoram and Sisir. This is a very wild districtj and as the name implies the glens are narrow, deep, and dark. Chira, 4,000 houses. This is a market town, and has many populous settlements along the river of the same name. The soil is sandy but productive, and most of the silk of the country ( 84 ) is produced here. A strip of arid sandy desert separates this district from Khutan and Ytirangkish on one side and Earyi on the other. The river of Chira flows through the settle- ment in several streams which get lost on the desert. The mulberry and seleagnus grow here to perfection^ and their fruits are esteemed better than those in any other part of the country. The people are rich in cattle^ sheep and camels^ and manufacture excellent felts which they sell at Khutan. There are gold mines in the hills to the soutL Karyi^ 4,000 houses. This district resembles the last, and is a market town on the river bearing its name. Its settlement extends for several miles up and down the stream till it is lost on the Tdkla Mukin desert to the north. Its productions are the same as those of Chira. At a day^s journey to the south is the Soghrak settlement of 200 houses in a long glen. There are g^ld mines here similar to those at Chamand on the other side of the hills in the Kur^n- ghotSgh district. Further on in the mountains, at Kalakum, where there is no habitation, there are other gold mines, and mines of native sulphur. There is a road, two days' journey through narrow defiles, from Ealakum to Chamand which is a settlement of 200 houses. Ndya, 500 houses. This is a small district on the edge of the desert, and ends towards the east at Maz^r Bibi Injila, or as it is commonly called Imim Ja'far Sadik. This is the boundary, too, of the Khutan State in that direction, and is considered to be the limit of the Amir's territory, although he claims possession of Ch^han, and has a Governor there. The settlements of Niya are dispersed along the foot of the hiUs upon the streams issuing from them, and are all of small extent, few containing 50 houses. There are gold mines in this district, and more productive than elsewhere. Across a desert waste to the east is Chichan. This is a flourishing settlement of 500 houses on the banks of two rivers which unite on the plain, and flow in a single stream towards Lob. The town is situated at the foot of a mountain to the south, and a river flows on its west and its east. On these are planted the farmsteads of the settlement. By the Chinese this place was used as a penal colony for Khutan. It now belongs to the Amir, who has sent Daulat Beg of Khutan as his Oovemor there. The people are very prosperous and industrious, and are fond of good living and merriment. They are Musalmans, but very lax in their observance of the Shara or ^* Law.'' A white stone called mdnoh is quarried in the hills here and sent in large quantities to China. Formerly Ch^han was a very important place on the caravan route from Khutan to China. The ruins of the ancient ci^ still exist on a ridge of hill overlooking the present town. They cover a great extent of surface, and are mostly buried under drift sand, but here and there their walls st^d out, and are substsmtially built of brick and stone. Nobody knows anything of their history except that the ciiy anciently belonged to infidels and was destroyed by the Musalmans. At the present day people dig in the ruins for the sake of the bricks and stones, and sometimes find great treasure in gold and precious stones. There is a road north from this to Lob, three or four days' journey acrossthe desert by shepherd camps. Inclusive of Ch&chan the population of Khutan, according to the Chinese revenue returns, is reckoned at 18,500 houses. This at seven persons per house will give the total population of the State as 129,500 souls. But this, from all accoimts, is much above the actual number now to be found within its limits. Khutan communicates with Tibet and Kashmir by the S^nju road, with Yirkund by the 0(im& road^ and with Lob by the Marjdn Uldi road along the course of the Khutan River. Its frontiers are S&nju on the west, Munji near Gumi on the north-west, Marj&n Uldi on T£kU Makdn to the north, and Imam Ja'far Sadik on the east. Tdriand. — This is the most populous and most extensive of all the States of K^shghar, and its city, which was in ancient times the capital of the country, is still the laigest and most wealthy in the whole valley. It is enclosed within fortified walls which are supported at inter* vals by buttress bastions topped with loopholed turrets. The length of the city is from north to south, but the walls describe an irregular figure, and have no surrounding ditch. Their circuit is about four miles, and they are pierced by five gates or ddbza = danoaza, viz., Alt4n or " Gold (gate)" on the south, Cdwughat or ''Melon" on the west, Tera-idgh or '' Hide garden" on the north, Masd or '' Jester" on the east, and Khancah or '' Monastery" on the south-east. The city stands on the open plain, and is surrounded bv wide spreading and populous suburbs, which consist of &rmsteads scattered about in small clusters amongst the fields and ( 35 ) gardens^ and orchards^ and timber trees. At five hundred yards or so to the west of it stands the Chinese fort or Mdngshin, which is called Yangishahr or '^ New City^' in distinction to the Euhna shahr or ^* Old City/' It is a strong square fort surrounded by a deep ditch, and entered over a drawbridge by a single gate which faces the Kiwughat Gate of the city on the east. Between these two gates is a street of cook shops behind which are the cattle market and gallows on one side, and the horse market on the other. In the time of the Chinese it is said to have been a lively scene of activity and trade, but, as we found it, full three-fourths of the space were in ruins, and the rest a miserable collection of cook shops and grocers' stalls almost as dilapidated as the ruins themselves. The Yangishahr is the residence of the Governor of the State with his stafE of officials and troops. Under the Chinese he was called Khdn Ambdn and now he is called Shaghdtoul Dddkhwdh. He lives in a spacious arda or '^ palace/' which is shut off from the rest of the area by high walls, and is surrounded by the barracks and artillery gunsheds of the garrison. In the Yangishahr are also several commodious residencies for the higher officers of government or for foreign visitors and guests. One of these had been fitted up for the reception of the Embassy. It is in the centre of the fort area, and though closely crowded by other buildings was comfortably furnished for our special benefit, and we were allowed free liberty of ingress and egress. The garrison is said to number 1,800 men, who live with their families in the fort ; but fully half the number are generally absent on detachment duty in the district, or in the frontier outposts, though their families remain behind. According to the Chinese revenue returns the poptdation of the Yarkand State is estimated at 32,000 houses spread all over its area. This at seven persons • per house will give the total population of the State as 224,000 souls. The limits of the State are, along the south frontier^ Stf njii to Shahidulla, Kily£n to Yangi Dawan, Koky&r to KuMntSldi, and Koshar&b to the Muzt^gh of Kunjut. Along the west frontier are the highland district of Sarigh Kiil and the Kirghiz steppes of Pimir and Al£y ; but these are beyond the present reckoning which only includes the country up to the foot of the hills, from Yakka Arik to Ch^echiftlik or Chachiklik pass ; north of this Ime the country is a desert waste. The north border of the State is a blank arid desert on which the boundary is marked by a small post house, where are two wells of brackish water 98 feet down. It is called Ak Bab^t or ''White Stage'' and separates Yarkand territory from that of Y&ngi Hissir. The east border also is desert, and is marked by a line from Gum& on the soutii by Mihnat Ortang on the east to Sham^l on the north. In this area the settlements of Gum^, S^nju, Kily^, Koky&r, Koshar^b, and Yakka Arik are the limits of cultivation; all beyond — and a good deal within— is sterile desert or mountain skirt. The above reckoned population is thus distributed. Yirkand city, 5,000 houses, inclusive of mosques, colleges and sar&es; and the immediate suburbs, including Yangishahr, 5,000 houses. Total 10,000 houses. The rural settlements of Siknjd 2,000, Kily^n 800, Kokyar 800, Yakka Arik 700, K^rghalik 2,000, Besharik 1,800, Posgiim 1,600, Boiyi 600, Gumi 3,000, Koshar^b 500, Orpa 1,000, Tagb^hi 200, Otunchilik 2,000, Mirsh^h 500, Isl^bigh 500, Bab£tchi 600, Tonguzlik SOO, Ar&mang 100, and all other minor settlements 8,000. Total 32,000 houses. These figures are only approximate, and, from personal observation in respect to several of the most populous settlements, may I believe be taken as fiurly correct. The city itself having a circuit of four miles outside the walls may be considered as covering an area of 3,097,600 square yards. If we deduct one-fifth for fortifications, streets, courts, bazars, and tanks, of which last the number is said to be 120, we shall have 2,478,080 square yards kft for the houses. And this, if we take 25 by 20 yards as the average measure- moDit, wiU give the number at 4,956 or about 5,000 houses, which at seven persons per house lepresaits a population of 35,000 souls. The calculation is certainly fully up to the mark, and I believe much above the actual fact, for compared with Peshawar, which has a population of something under 60,000 souls, Yarkand is an insignificant city. I don't think its population much exceeds 20,000 souls at the present time. The citizens are mostly Turk with Tartar and Chinese converts and half breeds, and they have amongst them a large number of foreign settlers who are reckoned at two thousand NoTS. — ^,000 is the figure at which I should be disposed to pnt the population from the statements giyen by the loeal aathorittes.-T. D. F^ d ( 36 ) iamilies. They are emigrants from Andij^n^ BadakhsMn^ and Kashmir in nearly equal proportions^ besides a few Hindustani and Kabuli outcastes. They bear a character for all sorts of knavery and debauchery in common with the Tartar residents^ who are besides characterized as seditious and turbulent. They belong to the K&rdt^hliik faction^ whose doings have been mentioned in the preceeding history. Under the Chinese rule Y^rkand was the seat of government and a most flourishing centre of trade. Besides the garrison of 5^000 men^ there was a floating population of nearly ten thousand followers, suttlers, artificers, pedlars, and merchants whose activity brought life, wealth, and prosperity to the city. '^ What you see on market day now,'' as a citizen informed me, ''is nothing to the life and activity there was in the time of the Khitdy, To-day the peasantry come in with their fowls and eggs, with their cotton aud yam, or with their sheep, and cattle and horses for sale ; and they go back with printed cottons, or fur caps, or city made boots, or whatever domestic necessaries they may require, and always with a good dinner inside them, and then we shut up our shops and stow away our goods till next week's market day brings back our customers. Some of us go out with a small venture in the interim to the rural markets around, but oar great day is market day in town. It was very different in the Khitdy time, People then bought and sold every day, and market day was a much jollier time. There was no Kdzi Bais with his six muhtdnb armed with the dira to flog people off to prayers, and drive the women out of the streets, and nobody was bastinadoed for drinking spirits and eating forbid- den meats. There were musicians and acrobats, and fortune-tellers and story-tellers, who moved about amongst the crowds and diverted the people. There were flags and banners and all sorts of pictures floating at the shop fronts, and there was the jallah, who painted her &ce and decked herself in silks and laces to please her customers.'' " Yes. There were many rogues and gamblers too, and people did gat drunk, and have their pockets picked. So they do now, though not so publicly, because we are now under Islim, and the Sharidt is strictly enforced. The city contains several large colleges — ^there are thirty-eight in all — and mosques, and a number of sardes. None of them are of architectural note, except perhaps the new Andijdn Sarde, which is a brick and mortar building with commodious vaults and lod|§^es. A peculiar feature of the city are its kol or " tanks" of drinking water. There are, it is said, 120 within the walls. They are filled from canals on the outside, and are mere excavations in the soil, and are in no way protected from the impurities of the streets, or from wind drifts. In other respects of municipal arrangement and general conservancy, as well as in the appearance of the bazars, streets, and tenements, the city may be compared with a third rate Musalman town in which the houses are for the most part built of raw brick and mud plaster. The principal industry here is the leather trade. Excellent boots and shoes of the European pattern are manufactured in the city; as are all sorts of saddlery and harness gear, together with sheepskin cloaks, and fur caps of the Tartar fashion. And these are exported to the neighbouring districts. The coarse cotton called khdm is also woven here, and exported with that from Khutan to Andijdn. For the rest the industrial trades are such as supply the domestic requirements of the people, and produce nothing for export. The Ydrkand division is traversed by several rivers on the course of which, and on canals drawn from which, its settiements are situated. They are the S&nju or GumiL river, the Kilydn, the Tizndf, and the Zarafshdn. The two first are lost on the desert, and the two last unite to form the Ydrkand river. The Tizndf waters the settlements of Kokydr, Besharik, and Kir- ghalic. The Zarafshdn irrigates those of Yakka Arik and the city and south suburbs of Ydrkand. The Orpa river flows through its western suburbs and joins the Ydrkand river to the north. The Orpa is the only river which is bridged in this division, though most of the canals are so too. It and they flow on sandy bottoms ; the other rivers op firm pebbly beds. Tdng{ Hmdr. — This division lies to the north-west of Y&rkand and connects it with K&shghar. It is a flourishing and populous settlement extending some twenty miles from west to east along the course of the Shdhndz river. The city and fort, however, are Separated from the riVer by an intervening ridge of sand stone and gravel heights called Kdyrdgh ; and with their suburbs are watered by six uaiang or '' canals," which are brought from the Ak Kay ( 37 ) reservoir at the Maz^r Khoja BagMn^ 30 miles to the west of the town^ where it is filled from streams coming down from the hUIs. The settlements to the south of KAjiigh are watered from the Shihn&z which is lost on the desert to the east; and those on the north border of the division by the Kos^ river which joins the Kishghar stream. The limits of Ykngi Hissdr are Ak Rab^t on the souths and Yapchang on the north ; Egizy^r Karawul^ or outpost to the Chisht^gh mountain on the west^ and Ord&m P^shih^ or Eum Shahiddn on the east. The general character of the country is arid desert^ with here and there small saUhe pools^ or more extensive reedy wastes ; and everywhere the soil is highly charged with salts which cover the ground with a white efflorescene even under growing crops. On the southern half of the division is a wide waste of this saline soil. It is covered witii salt worts and a coarse reedy grass^ and is so soft and spongy that cattle cannot traverse it off the beaten track. Within the above limits^ the population is reckoned at 8,000 houses, of which 2,000 con- stitute the city and its immediate suburbs. The rest are thus distributed. Along the south tract — Kizili 200 houses, Chamalung 200, Kuduk, Tamyari, and Kosh Gumbaz 150, Topoluk 400, Kilpichim, Kdlpin, and Toghochi 250, Egizyar 800, Tishijin, Sugat, and Piliz 100, Domshun, Yangiyar, and Ditir 100, and King Kul 600— total 2,300 houses. Along the middle tract— Konos&k, Altdnchi, and Eish Arik 200 houses, Tawiz 200, Earigho 100, Atimchagh and Camp4 100, ShimU 150, M^ngshin 200, Khoja Arik 300, Syghan 300, and Ar^ba 250 — totsd 1,800 houses. Along the north track — Oktay and Cholpangarik 100 houses, Ch^harshamba Bizir and S^ylik 250, Altunluk 200, Sugholuk 250, Tongluk 250, Sunoldk 200, Yapchang 250, and other small settlements as Hazrat Begum, Ordam P^ulsh^h, Kiii At^m, &c., 400 — total 1,900 houses. Total population of the division 56,000 souls. The Yangi Hiss^r settlements are entirely agricultural. The city is a small town of about 600 houses composed of dilapidated tenements and decayed fortifications, and its people and surroundings wear an air of poverty, neglect, and decadence ; yet the suburbs are flourishing gardens and cornfields. On the plain a few hundred yards to the north of the town is the Yangishahr, a strong fort with high turreted walls and a deep ditch. And between the two are the barracks of the garrison and their families, small fortified enclosures with crenelated walls. In the time of the Chinese this was, as it is still, an important military post, and there are now more Chinese converts here than in any other part of the country, except at E^shghar itself. The Am(r has a garrison of 500 men here, who are mostly quartered outside the fort, which is the; depository of his treasure and the residence of some State prisoners and refugees. Amongst the latter Hydar Tora, son of Amir Muzaffaruddin of Bukhdrd, who has been kept here under strict supervision for some years as a guest living on the bounty of Ydkub Beg. Y^ngi Hissir is an interesting place historically as the scene of the grand struggle for mastery between Budhism and Isl&m ; and though the former was overthrown, it was not without a heavy price paid by the victors in their best blood, as has been mentioned in the History. The place abounds in the tombs and sacred shrines of the early champions of the Faith, and a few miles to the west of the town, at Chuch^m Padshah, is a vast cemetery consecrated to the dust of ten thousand warrior martyrs to the cause.. It is a desolate waste spread far and wide over a dreaiy wilderness of sand hills and hollows, and even now its sepulchral odours and deep solitude impress the visitor with the magnitude of the contest and the fierceness of the fight. In this struggle — which it appears lasted for a quarter of a centuiy before Budhism was stamped out by the conquest of its most flourishing seat at Khutan— several little fortified cities in this division were reduced to ruins. The largest of these, Ord£m Padshah = '^My Eing^s palace,^' is now only known by name, for the site of its existence has for eight centuries been buried under the shifting sands ; where stiU stands the shrine of Ali ArsMn Eh&n and his 300 fellow martyrs, surrounded by a billowy sea of sand dunes which, as the venerable custodian solemnly informed us, ^' have hitherto, out of respect to the sacred resting place of the holy martyrs, passed on in their course giving the hallowed spot a wide berth ; and please God they will always do so to all eternity.^' ( 38 ) About twelve miles to the south of this shrine^ near that of Hazrat Begum on the desert are the indistinctly traceable fortifications of a castellated city now called Shahri Nuktdl Bashid. It is more or less completely buried under sand^ but the mound tops are wind swept^ and strewed thickly with bits of pottery^ China^ and glass ; coins too are said to be found here^ and Sir Douglas Forsyth got one of them from the keeper of the neighbouring shrine. In the opposite direction^ to the west of the present town^ are the ruins of another city^ apparently veiy ancient and strongly fortified by high battlemented mounds the substantial walls of which are in parts still &irly traceable. As an instance illustrative of the dry character of the cUmate here^ I may mention that we found sheets of matting, such as are used at the present day in the foundations of waUs^ still in excellent preservation under the layers of raw bricks composing the structure of the battlements ; although^ as we were assured and as history tends to prove^ the place has been in ruins for eight hundred years. The original name of this city is lost^ and it is now known simply by the name Tam = " Wall/' and the people know no more of its history than that it formerly belonged to the Kingdom of Nukt^ Bashid^ the Kafity and was destroyed by Ali Arsl&n Khan^ the GhazL Further north than Tam^ near Ch^rshamba Biz&r^ are the ruins of Oktd or Oktay. They are described as built of stone^ and as being more sub- stantial and more extensive than any others in the division. This is probably that Ota through which in early ages passed the caravan road from Kashghar over the Bolor range and through Kardtakin to Bidkh for the outlets west and south by the Oxus and Bamian respectively. The other great trade route was from Kashghar over the Tirik pass to 0sh or Osh and on along the Jaxartes. It is still in use as the caravan road to Orenburgh. The first has been long since abandoned as a trade route. Ying^ Hissdr=" Newcastle/' as the name and etymology indicate, dates only from the Muhanmiadan conquest ; but from its appearance and the remains of walls in the vicinity it would seem to occupy the site of some more ancient city. Ever^ street has its hang shop, generally a mean little shed, in which two or three pipes are at the disposal of the passers by. There are besides, several opum divans, places more like a pawnbroker's shop than anything else. Obscure chambers, dimly Ughted by a row of flickering lamps along the floor, on which lie the somnolent devotees of this '^ thief of reason and riches/' On shelves ranged round the walls are neatly folded and labelled bundles of their household chattels even to the clothes off their backs, all kept in pawn till released by cash pay- ment. We shall return to this subject under the head of agricultural products. Suffice it here to say that the abuse of these deleterious drugs is prevalent throughout the coontry. I have thus referred to it in this place, because I observed that the people of Y^ngi Hissdr were more generally addicted to these forms of intoxication than those of Yarkand or Eishghar; a point in which they do not belie the character given them by common report. Kashghar, — ^This State is situated in the angle of junction between the great mountain ranges of AUt^gh and Bolort^gh, and for purposes of government includes the steppes of P^mir and the glens of S^igh Kul. But these last, being beyond its proper limits, are excluded from the present reckoning, and will be described separately hereafter. Its limits are : On the north — Balauti Hill which separates it from the canton of tTsh Turf^ ', Tirikti Fort and T^h Bab^t on Al&tdgh which separate it from the Kirj^iz of Isigfa Kol ; Chakmik Fort and Eard Aylak of Atb^hi which separate it from the Russian outpost on the Ndrin; and the Akt^h range which separates it from 0zkand in Andijin; Mingyol out- post at foot of the range. On the west — ^Tirik Dawin which separates it from Ush in Andijiin ; and Ear£t£gh and the hills down to Chi6ht£gh='' Tooth HiU,'' north of the Chachiklik Pass, which form the eastern border of the Al&y BUmir. On the south — the Khan Arik canal (from YamiLnydr branch of Kos^n River), Tazghun and Yapchang. On the west — ^the desert from Fyz^bid to Kol TiyUk and Sughun. Within these limits the population is estimated at 16,000 houses, or at seven per house, at 112,000 souls. Of these 5,000 houses are allotted to the city and its immediate suburbs, and the remainder are thus distributed amongst a number of considerable market towns and agri- cultural settlements. Along the hill skirt to the west — Opal 800 houses, Tishmalik 700, and Miishi 400. Along the hills to the north— Mingyol 200 houses, Sarman 800, Artosh 2,000, ( 39 ) aoid Ai^hti 400. On the plain to the east — Beshkirim 800 houses^ Daulat B&gh 600^ Yangabad 600, and Fyzdb&d 600. On the plain to the south— Kizil 800 houses, Kh&narik 800, and T&zghdn 500. And all other lesser setUementa 1,500. Total 16,000 houses. The general character of the country is level plain quite up to the foot of the hills, where it becomes broken by low ridges of clay and conglomerate. The soil is mostly sandy and charged with salts, but it is said to be more productive than that of the other divisions already described. It is watered by several streams from the hills to the north, and from springs at the foot of those to the west. They are the Tirikti or Sughun river on the banks of which are Kirghiz pasture grounds ; the Artosh river on which is the populous settlement of that name ; the Tuman river on which stands Kishghar city with the settlements of Sarman, Beshkirim, and Daulat Bdgh ; the Kizil river on which are the market town of Fyz&bfid, the southern suburbs of the city, and the Mushi settlement; tha Yam&ny&r, and its great canal of Kh&n&nk with their settlements ; and the TdzghtSn, and its canals, and their settlements. Those to the north of the city unite to form the Artosh river, and those to the south to form the Fyzfib&d river ; and the two unite near Kol Tijl&k to form the K£shghar river. K&shghar is the present capital of the country, the seat of its government, and the most active centre of its trade, which is exclusively with Russia by the caravan route to Alm&ti. It consists of the Kuhna Shahr, or '' Old City,^' on the right bank of the Tuman river, and Ydngi* shahr, or " New City,'' on the plain five miles to the south of it. Between the two flows tiie Kizil river on which are several fortified barracks, and small farms, with the conspicuous shrines of Sayyid JaMluddin Bughd^t and Hazrat Padshah, and the ruins of Aski Shahr or the ^'Ancient City" and the communication is by a wood bridge across the river. Kuhna Shahr is a small fortified city on high ground overlooking the river. Its walls are lofty and supported by buttrass bastions with loopholed turrets at intervals. The glacis is protected by a covered way, and the whole is surrounded by a deep ditch, which is crossed by a timber bridge leading to each of the two gates, viz,, the '^ Kum Darw^za or " Sand G ate'' on the south, and the Su Darw^za or '' Water Gate" on the north. The fortifications are all of hard clay, and much out of repair. The eastern quarter of the city is occupied by the palace of the Didkhw^h or ^' Governor," and near it is a substantial new built sarde ; and the main line of bazar passes between the two from one gate to the other. The city covers about half the area of Ydrkand, and may contain probably 2,500 houses, if as many. But its shops are better stocked with merchandise, and there is altogether an air of brisker activity in the place. The people too are physically far superior, and one is only reminded of goitre by an occasional bulbous throat here and there in the crowd. Their general appearance too' is Far more prosperous, and, though the strange diversity and blending of race types is as noticeable here as at Yirkand, a more pleasing feature in the contrast are the fair complexions, rosy cheeks, and look of robust health that pervade the crowd, in place of the sallow complexion and sickly looks of the citizens of the older capital. This city, as has been mentioned in the history, was built in 1513 A.D. by Mirz& Abikakar when he destroyed the ancient capital or Aski Shahr on the approach of Sultan Said's invading army. In its interior arrangement and general appearance of the houses and bazars it no way differs from Yirkand. The gates however are double, and the outer one to the south is plated with sheet iron studded with boss headed nails. Between the two at each side is a small row of barracks and gun-sheds for the guards of Tung^ni troops; about thirty men at each gate. About two miles to the north of the city, beyond the Tuman river which is crossed by bridge, is the shrine of Hazrat Afdk, the Saint King of the country who died and was buried here in 1698 A.D. It is a well kept and handsome mausoleum faced with blue and white glazed tiles, and stands under the peaceful shade of some magnificent silver poplars called tdrii* About it are a commodious college, and mosque, and monastery. These have all been recently built by the Am{r, and are the most substantial and superior structures in the country. The whole stand on their own rent-free grounds and are surrounded by rich orchards, fruit gardens, and vineyards. Beyond these again, down to the river in the direction of the city, is a vast cemetery of neatly kept tombs. Many of them are covered with dome vaulted chambers open ( 4X) ) towards the east; and in these take up their abode in their filth and their rags a number of calandar and ^art^^^A^-demented ascetics and abandoned mendicants — who with their hags and a few wretched children here lead a life of idleness and f oUy^ the cause and effect at once of their love of ban^ — veritable '^dwellers amongst the tombs/^ impudent claimants of charity from every passer by^ and equally ready with curse or blessing as their loud appeals may require. By the Amir's favour we were permitted to visit this sacred shrine, and were received with marked attention and hospitality by Eshdn Mahmiid Khan^ the Mutawalli Bdshiox '^ Head Custodian/' a quiet and deferential priest who had received his education at Constanti- nople, and on parting informed us that we were the first Europeans^ nay the first Christians, who had ever set foot within the hallowed precincts. A few hundred yards to the west of Kuhna Shahr are the ruins of the Chinese fort called 6ulb%h. It was destroyed in 1825 A.D. by Jah&ngir Khoia, and on the recovery of the country by the Chinese they built the several forts or mdngahln which are now called Yangi« shahr at Y&rkand, Ydngi Hiss^r and this place. The Yangi-shahr of K^shghar was built in 1838 when ZuhtSruddin or Zoruddin was the H&kim Beg or ^' Chief Governor^' of the division. It stands on the plain five miles south of the city and near the right *bank of the Kizil river, and is nearly as large as the city itself. It is of oblong shape running north and south, and is entered by a single gateway with three portals at cross angles one within the other in the north face. The walls are lofty and massive and topped by loopholed turrets at intervals, and on each side is a projecting bastion to protect the curtains by flank fire. The glacis is protected by a covered way, and the whole is sur- rounded by a deep and wide ditch which can be filled from the river; at the risk, however, of bringing down the whole structure, for the walls are of mud and stand upon a porous sandy soil. In the time of the Chinese it held a garrison of six thousand men, and was the residence of the Amb^n and other Khitdy officials, with a number of families and followers. It is now the residence of the Amir whose orda occupies the site of the Ambiin's palace, and the officers of his Court who each have their residencies within the area. The other principal buildings are the Friday Mosque or Junid Masjid built upon the ruins of the Chinese temple, and the harem of which the long blank line of tall walls is all that can be seen, and, coupled with the stillness around, all that prompts conjecture as to the nature of the life within. In the middle line of the area is a military baz£r, and on each side is a row of soldiers' huts, but the bulk of the troops are quartered under their respective commandants in separate barracks outside the fort ; and each of these is enclosed within crenelated and loopholed walls, entered through a fortified gateway ; and they are disposed within gunshot of each other between the fort and river to the north, and on the road to Yangi HissSr on the east. Amongst those in the former direction is another harem. A commodious enclosure said to accommodate two hundred ladies whom " the king delights to honour.'' The orda or " palace" is a succession of courts one beyond the other up to the fourth in which are the Amir's private apartments. The third is occupied in the width of one side by the audience hall — a spacious chamber spread with carpets and felts and provided with a fire-pit in the centre — ^and in the length of one contiguous wall by a covered and raised verandah in which on State occasions the body-guard take their seats. The opposite walls are a blank spread of mud plaster singularly in keeping with the simplicity and absence of adornment around, and wonderfully suited to the aweful silence and studied stillness that characterize the discipline of the court. The second court runs parallel to the third only a wall intervening. Its short sides are occupied by a row of offices in each. One set are cook-rooms and store-rooms for the dusturiAwan or " table cloth of ceremony" which forms so important a feature of the social customs of this country. The other set communicate with the King's private court and are for pages in waiting and other domestics. On the long sides of this court are verandahs similar to that in the preceding. Each is matted and occupied along the wall by a long row of solemn looking figures, seated with downcast eyes, motionless and silent. Each wears a snow white turban; each has a long prong-rest gun placed on the floor in front of him; and each has his baggy robes gathered in at the waist by a buff leather belt from which hangs a sword and a multitude of the paraphernalia belonging to his g^. For the rest no two in the ( 41 ) row are alike. Each wears a robe of different pattern^ but all of the same strikingly attrac- tive character — silk or cotton print — and all in brightest colours mixed in stark contrast. Here is a gigantic Afghan with nut brown complexion^ handsome countenance^ and flowing beard of glossy black; and ne^t him is a fellow countryman of the same stalwart proportions^ bat bowed by the weight of his grey beard and scarred cheek ; both in the midst of the sub- servient crew show in their looks the natural independence of the race, and^ in defiance of etiquette^ raise their heads to survey the stranger at their leisure^ and^ I must record, with a look of unmistakeable " rapprochement^ ' too. There sits a square-faced, flat-nosed, skew-eyed Kalmyk, with cheek bones as high as his shoulders, and a body as square as his face ; his ruddy features, without a hair to ornament them, are respectfully bowed, and wear an expression of seriousness only equalled by that of timid submission. Next him sits a fair, full, round faced Andij^ni, with short trimmed beard, bright eyes, and an air of complacent self satisfaction supported by the stolidity with which he plants his Dutch built frame amongst his fellows. His looks of natural confidence and ready activity contrast strongly within the cunning mien and crouching seat of his Kirghiz neighbour, whose angular eyes and angular cheeks and angular face — ^all suffused with a healthy glow of red, and all together on one plane prolonged to a point at the chin by a short whispy tuft of beaid — ^present a no less strange divergence from the rotund features and form beside him. But here a very different form interposes like a full stop in a sentence topped with a stroke of surprise. He is our familiar black skinned and oily faced Hindustani Musalm^n, whose beard shines as bright as his eyes, and both by contrast more pronounced in colour, whilst his obsequious smiles have grown none the less by distance, despite the disguise he appears in. Seyond him again come forms more in consonance with their garb, at least accord- ing to our associations, and then another type that arrests attention by its peculiar hard linea- ments, its deep sunk eyes, narrow retreating forehead, and naked projecting jowl. It is owned by the muddy skinned, withered, opium smoking Kbitdy whose repulsive physiognomy is the reflexion of his cowed spirit and forced servility. Like him too, but with more obUque eyes, more prominent cheek bones, and more fleshy features is his Tung&ni confrere. And afferent from all, though strongly allied to the first, is the brown skinned, bewhiskered, and gentle looking Badakhshi, with high full forehead, long arched finely carved nose, and oval face of the true Aryan stamp. He sits with respectful pose and downcast eyes, and only looks up to show a ready obedience on his countenance. Such was the odd medley of garbs and grimaces that composed the guard in waiting in this second court of the King's p^ace. The next, a much smaller one, is covered in and shelters a similar guard which holds the gateway. Everywhere within the palace courts a perfect silence prevails, so much so that even the sociable and homely sparrow shuns the stillness and chimips not where men dare not speak. The population of K^shghar is almost entirely Turk and employed solely in agriculture. Th^ are said to be restless under control and inclined to tumult, and have a character for neglecting those courtesies and conventionalities of society so carefully observed by their neighbours. Further they are taxed with a want of hospitality and denounced as but poor Musalmans considering the many priests and sacred shrines in their midst. They belong to the Akt^ghluk faction and, as their detractors are the rival Karatdghluk, perhaps they are not so bad as they are painted. Under the lax rule of the Chinese, however, tiiey were notorious for indulgence in all sorts of forbidden pleasures, meats, and drinks, and amongst them flourished whole colonies of the gay and accommodating Ciai$cdn. All these are now strictly repressed, and their loss is supplied by a more general resort to hemp and opium, and a most degrading vice. tJsA Turf an, — ^This little division lies to the north-east of Kl^hghar from which it is separated by the Balauti range. This is an irregular chain of hills which, emanating from the Tirikti Peak near Ch^dir Kol, projects eastward parallel to the AUtdgh and shuts off the tTsh Turf&n valley from the plain. The western half of the valley is occupied by the Kirghiz pastures of Kfiksh&l, through which flows the Aksfiy river from Ch&dir Kol. Its banks, as the river approaches Safarbfiy, are studded by dense forests of poplar trees, and the road passes through ( 42 ) them for a distance of thirty miles. From Safarb&y a caravan road goes north over the Bedal Pass to the head waters of the N^rin river^ and beyond^ across the Zauka Pass, to Isigh Kol. The Bedal Pass marks the north boundary of Ifsh Turf&n and the Amir's territory^ and at the entrance to the gorge leading up to it is an outpost called Bedal Kardwul. From Safarb&y eastward the valley widens^ and is studded with little farm settlements on the streams coming down the glens on either side. They form two streams called Aks&y and Tfioshk&n which unite and join the Aksu Aiver south of that city. The population of this division is altogether agricidtural^ and estimated at 2^000 houses^ or 1^^000 souls at seven per house. The capital had formerly a strong little castle^ but it was destroyed with the town in 1765 A.D.^ and its people massacred by the Chinese for revolt in &vor of the Khoja rebellion. It is now an open market town of 800 houses commanded by a fort on a hill overlooking it from the north-west. The garrison consists of 800 men^ and the townspeople are the descendants of tarancAi or '' labourers'' planted here by the Chinese after the massacre. Farmsteads are scattered all over the valley^ but the principal settlements are Safarb&y^ Kariwul^ Aln^^r^ Achitdgh, and Aral. Sheep^ cattle^ and horses are very numerous.. The fine wool of the first is woven by the Kirghiz into a variety of materials for home use^ and with the tobacco and cattle of the town findi its way to the Aksti market. The limits of the division are K&kah&l on the west and the Aksu River on the east^ the Bedal mountain on the norths and the Balauti ridge on the south. Its communication and trade are entirely with Aksu of which by some it is considered to form a part. Aisu. — ^This is the central division of the country^ and is situated at the base of AMtigh or Tangrl Ula at the southern entrance to the Muz&rt or " Glacier Pass." Under the Chinese it was an important military post at the junction of the roads from Ila by the Muzirt^ and from EUtnstih by Kh&mil and Turfin. It was the centre of the Chinese trade and formed the division between the eastern and western cities of the province^ and was the limit of the trade privileges accorded by the Chinese Government to the Khokand Khan over the cities of the western division. Its limits are from the Aksti River on the west to the Kizil or N&rinj stream beyond S^yr^m on the east^ and from the water-shed of Tangri l/la on the north to Sij Ark, ana the Aisd and T£rim rivers on the south. Its population is reckoned at 12^000 houses, of which 6,000 are allotted to the city and immediate suburbs. The rest are distributed thus. Settle- ments to the north — Chod& 60 houses, Kizghin 100, Sirilmi 40, and other homesteads 800. On the west— Aykol 20, S^yarik 40, Kilpin 60, Chilan 60, Sugat 40, Mardkala 20, Besh Digarman 60, and other homesteads 400. On the south — Subalik 80, Sagfarcha 50, Daulat- b^h 200, Kar& Moghcha 20, Bdlaring 20, Amarjama 50, Kumbish 200, DoMn 50, and others 680. On the east— J£m 100, T^zlung 100, Kari-yulghdn 150, Yakka Arik 150, Koshtami 250, B&y 600, Kar&b^gh 100, S&yr^m 800, and others 1,250. Total of all 12,000 houses, at seven per house 84,000 souls. Aksu is a very ancient city, and was formerly called Arpadil or Ardabfl. It covers two ridges of gravel heights on the left' bank of the Aksti river where it is joined by the 0sh or K£ksh&l river, and has a citadel on each. The city is surrounded by fortified walls, and has two gates — ^that on the west Sd Darw^lza or " Water Gate," and that on the east Tumurchi Darwiza or " Blacksmith's Gate." The climate is described as very salubrious, though the winter is an extremely rigorous season ; and the natives I have seen bear testimony in confirmation by their dear healthy looks and robust frames. The citizens are said to be peaceable and industrious, to be very sociable, and fond of gaiety and the pleasures of life generally. They are more purely Turk in physiognomy, judging from the few I saw in the Amir's service, than the citizens of either Yarkand or Kisbghar, and are supposed to be the purest representatives, together with the people of Artosh north of Kfishghar, of the ancient Ayghiir or Uightir conquerors. Aksti is celebrated for its manufactures of saddlery and harness, its pottery, and its raw hide jars called dabba for oil, butter, &c. Its tobacco also is considered the best that is pro* duced in the country. All these, together with cattle and the shawl wool of If sh Turfan, are ( 43 ) exported to the neighbouring cities and conntries. The xninexal resources of the country are considerable^ and in the time of the Chinese mines of lead^ and copper^ and sulphur were systematically worked^ whilst coal was generally used in the city as fuel. The lead mines are in T&jik T^h, five t^h north-east of Jim^ ana those of copper at Onb^h on the Muzirt river. The sulphur mines are on a low ridge of hills bordering the Aks^y river at Kalpin, and the coal is found in the hills near Karabigh^ where are hot sulphur springs which are resorted to by the inhabitants for medicinal purposes. Coal is also found in the adjoining hills drained by the ILizil or N£rin river ; and further on is an active volcano from the base of which are collected alum^ and salammoniac^ and blue vitriol or sulphate of copper. The asbestos mentioned by Marco Polo as a utilized product of this region is not now so known in the country. The MuziLrt pass connects this division with Ha or Eulja. The road is described as very difficult now^ though in the time of the Chinese it was kept open for troops and caravans by a regular establishment of labourers posted at intervals of three miles along the road across the glacier^ which is within the Amir's territory. The glacier is four days' journey from Aksu^ and two days obliquely across it to a clump of trees and a post house which mark the limit of £^hghar territory. Beyond this is a journey of eight days to Ila down the valley of the Takas River. The glacier is said to fill a long winding valley which extends three or four days' journey east and west. In the latter direction it gives rise to the Narin river, and in the former it gives rise to a river which ends in a swamp at Sh^hydr and is called Muzdrt Dary£. The road across the glacier is interrupted by vast fissures and moraine banks, and is covered with snow till the beginning of July. The Chinese kept the road clean swept and marked by piles of stone, but these are now all destroyed, and the road is almost impassable. It is closed to caravans by the Amir, who has built a fort for a garrison of 500 men in the Yakka Arik glen at the entrance to the defile leading up to the pa^, and has diverted the current of trade to the route through K^shghar by the Narin passes to Almati or Vernoe. That portion of this division which skirts the base of the mountains is said to be populous and productive, and to abound in gardens and rivulets. The population is mostly employed in agriculture and the breeding of cattle, and, towards the east of the capital, are massed in the two principal market towns of B^y and Sayr^m, which are only 15 miles apart on the course of the Muz^rt river. In the midst of the farmsteads of the latter is a square fort built by the Chinese. It is now the residence of the Amir's Governor with a garrison of 300 men. To the north-west of Sayr&m is the Kar^b^gh settlement and its hot springs. The place is said to be one of the most delightful residences in the whole country, and its gardens wonderfully productive. The southern portion of the division partakes much of the character of the desert beyond, and its saline sandy soil is covered with great wastes of reed grown marsh and impassable tracts of swamp which are bordered by a brushwood of poplar and tamarisk bushes. Ktichd. — ^This is a small State situated at the foot of the mountains in continuation east- ward from Aksti. In ancient times it was an important little principality, and a flourishing seat of Budhism. On a hill to the north of the city are the ruins of an ancient temple and monastery. They are described as of considerable extent, and very substantially built of stone on the ledges and rocks of a precipitous hill. Fragmente of sculptures are found among the dSbris, and in some galleries sunk in the rock there are said to be paintings of men and animals on the walls as fresh and bright in colour as if new. Precious stones, gems, and trinkets are occasionally found in the rubbish of the crumbled walls, and marvellous tales are told of the lustre and size of isome that have been picked up here by wandering shepherds. A large figured is said to exist here, carved on the face of a rock overlooking the road to Ktirla. It is described as having the tongue lolled out and right shoulder depressed with extended arm, as in the fashion of Kalml^k salutation. It acknowledges the salutes of passers by a return wag of the tongue and wink of the eye, and haj9 often been seen to smile, by credulous Kalmyks at least. In the mountains to the north is a volcano, and from its base a river called Zamcha issues. On its banks are dug alum and a salt of zinc called zamch, which is used as a mordant with alum in dying. The rocks at the foot of the hill are hot to the touch, but the water of / ( 44 ) the nver Is cold. Loud mmblings and explosions are constantly heard in the interior of the mountain^ which is very high, and whose top is always covered with snow. It is called Kh^n Khur^ TAgh, and forms the boundary between Yuldilz of the Kalmyk and Zungh^ of the Kirghiz and Kazz&k who are also called Jattah Moghol. Zunghdr is also called Mogholist^n^ and extends from this mountain along the north slopes of Aldt^h to Tashkand in the west. Kh&n Khurd Tdgh is the western boundary of the Yulduz territory. It has a volcano which emits smoke and vomits up streams of pebbles and hot mud. At the foot of the volcano is the Tolaman river which further on is called Koksu or " Blue Water.^^ Tolaman is four days' journey from Kurla and three from Kardsh&hr; and Khfin Khurfi Tdgh is two days' journey from B&sh Ayghur ; and Tolaman is a day's journey further north. On the top of this mountain are the remains of hundreds of ovens which were used for the funeral feast of the Great Zungh&r Khdn^ Moghol, who died a thousand years ago, and was deposited in a box on the summit of the qiountain. fieyond this mountain, to the north of Yalduz, is the range of Boghdo Isin Ula, which is quite impassable owing to snow and glaciers. It separates Yulduz from the Ila country. The above is what I learned fron> an intelligent native of Euch&, which was formerly called Kiis&n. The popu- lation of this division is reckoned at 6,000 houses, including 2,000 allotted to the city and suburbs, or at seven per house, 42,000 souls. The city itself is enclosed within fortified walls, and contains about 800 houses, and is divided into equal parts by a wall running through the length of the city. In the time of the Chinese one of these divisions was occupied by the Khitay garrison, traders, and Kalmyk, and the other by the Musalmans ; and in the suburbs dwelt a numerous and influential colony of Khoja priests. They took a prominent part in the overthrow of the Chinese rule, and almost all themselves perished in the ensuing conquest of the country by the Amir. The people here in physique, character, and mode of life much resemble those of Aksd. Their farmsteads are described as models of neatness and thrift, and their orchards produce the finest apples and pears and pomegranates in the country. They are exported to all the neighbouring cities. The pears are of a peculiar excellence, of light colour, soft granular structure, and very juicy ; for export each fruit is wrapped separately in paper, and packed in wood boxes, covered with felt, two of which make a horse load. The apples too are of a peculiar kind called Muzalmd or '^ Ice Apple ;" their skins are semi-transparent, and the substance the same as if iced. The pomegranates are of large size and have juicy, sweet, red grains. The rural population numbers 4,000 houses thus distributed. On the north — ^there is no habitation on this side of the city; the space between it and the mountains is occupied by patches of brushwood and reed grown swamp. On the west — Sham&l B%h 100, Daulat B^h 150, Eutlugh Orda 50, Bihisht B&gh 100, Chinfb^h 150, Kurol 50, TawMin 50, Fyzdbfid 200, and Sh&hy&r 400. On this side separating Kuchd from Aksu is a wide waste of clay and sand hills in the hollows of which are reeds and swamps, quite impassable during summer floods. On the south — ^Yulduz B^gh 100, Ashk S&ydi 50, and Bughur 250, on the borders of the desert on which are the wild camel, stag, and wild pig. On the east— Ochir SO, Sdy B£gh 50, Kar^ Bocd 20, Yang^bdd 100, Uzum 50, Maz^r B&gh 150, Saksib 20, Ashkala 30, Tora 30, Yaka Tokondy 60, ChoUtbad 20, YAngi Hissir 150, Chedir 60, Suluk Ashma 50, Ch&rchu 100, and Durwtil 80. These are situated on numerous little streams from the mountains ; the principal of them are the rivers Zamcha, Karitil, and Sh^kur. All other settlements 1,250. Total 4,000 houses. The limits of Kuchi are from the Muz&rt and Nirin rivers on the west to Durwtal on the east, and from the water-shed of the Kh^n Khur& T^gh range on the north to the Tdrim river on the south. Kurla is the next division at the foot of the AMt^gh or Eh£n Ehuri rdnge. It is a small agricultural and pasture country more than half covered by swamps and reed marshes. Its population is reckoned at 2,000 houses, or at seven per house, 14^000 souls. The capital is an open market town of 700 houses. It is commanded by a fort built by the Amir at Siy Bdgh on the road north-east to Eardshahr, three miles from the town. The river K&lgha, a ( 45 ) tributary of the Kaidu or Eardshahr river flows through the town^ which is said to be smaller than Yangi HissiLr. Its suburbs to the west on the Kuch£ road are Conghrat^ Langar^ and Shin^ghf to DurwtSl ; to the north-east on the Ear^hahr road^ Ukdt^ S&y high, and the new fort to Lampti-t&sh hill ; to the east on the road to Kurugh Tigh, Tuwunki^ Charehu^ and Shdnko ; and to the south on the road to Ksii Kochun^ Cosh Arik, Tobrachi^ Taskan^ Dogh^r^ Chambola^ Langar^ &h6h Calandar^ and Uzan. Its limits are Durwul on the west, and B^sh Ayghur, on the right bank of the Kar^shahr river which comes from the Tolaman hills where coal is worked, on the east ; on the north the mountains, and on the south the Tarim river to Konchi below the junction of the united stream of the Kucha and Kurla rivers. This is the limit eastward of the Turk tribes of K^sh- ghar and Ydrkand ; and beyond the K&idu or Eardshahr river CDmes the Tartar race, the Ealmak, and Khitay element in preponderance. The road from Kurla to Kar^hahr goes along the right bank of the river between it and the mountains, and beyond Dangzil, where in a reedy marsh are the ruins of Kutyaghan, crosses it to the city by boat. KardsAaAr. — ^This division occupies a valley between the Ayghur Bulak hills to the north, (a continuation eastward of the Al&t&gik or Tangri Ula range), and the Kurugh-t^gh range of sand hills to the south. These coalesce towards the east and close the valley in that direction at Gumish Akma, about 90 miles from the city ; but towards the west the valley is open and gives passage to the K^idu river, which on issuing from the Yulduz valley spreads over the southern portion of this basin and forms the Baghrdsh Kol or lake. It is described as a long sheet of water five days' journey in length, and covered with floating islands of tall reeds amidst which the river flows, in the western end of the lake only. It is separated from the Lob District to the south by the Kurught&gh, a wide range of sandy and gravelly ridges, amongst the hollows of which the wild horse and wild camel breed. There is a road between the lake and this range, seven days' journey from Kurla to Ush Akt&l ; and there is another along its southern side, between it and Lob, a seven dayd' journey from Kara Kochdn to Turf^n. There is no habitation on either route, and the soil is sandy and marshy, and covered with great spreads of reed, and tamarisk, and poplar forest. The city of Karashahr stands near the left bank of the river to the north of the lake. Between the cily and the river is the Musalman settlement of farms, and from it north-east goes the road to Turfan along a wide plain between the hills and the lake. It is about six days' journey in length, and was covered with a succession of E^itay homesteads ; but these were all destroyed by the Amir, and the whole' way up to Ush Aktal, a distance of fifty miles, is now a mass of ruined farms and deserted homesteads. At Kard Kizil, 20 miles beyond Ush Akt^l and about the same distance from Oumish Akma where the road enters the hills, there are the ruins of an ancient city called Karfi KizU in the midst of a sandy waste. They are supposed to be the remains of the ancient Ch^ish or J&lish. Karashahr is a walled city of 1,000 houses, formerly peopled by Kalmiik tribes who always lived in their Khargdh tents (putting their cattle into the houses) and every summer emigrated to YuldtSz. It was originally founded by the Khitay with twelve Musalman families from Kurla and twelve from Bughur ; and it was afterwards settled by the Kalmdk of the Turgut and Koshot camps, and by traders from K&mol. Since the Amir's campaign here the city is almost entirely deserted, and aU the suburbs, except the Musalman settlement on the river, are now in ruins. The population of the division was formerly reckoned at 8,000 houses or 56,000 souls, but now, excepting the Musalman settlement of 300 houses on the river and the new fort built by the Amir, there is hardly anybody in the country. The Yulduz Kalmyk who used to camp and pasture here, and who kept up a constant communication with Lob, now seldom quit their own valley. The Yulduz Kalmyk are Turgut and Koshot. Those of Ila are Olotand Minjhu ; and amongst them are many Solon and Shiba, the offspring of a Kalmyk father and Khitay mother. They are a- mean and beggarly set, and wear no other clothing but a loin-clout ; their language is a mongrel dialect mixed up with many Ai'abic words ; they have no other weapons besides the bow and arrow. There are also in Ila a great many champan; these are enslaved criminals brought and settled here from all parts of China; ( 4^ ) , they are' mostly employed as soldier farmers^ and to prevent their leaving the country are scored on the left cheek with a razor ; they are a despicable set, and speak mixed langoages^ such as K^tdy^ Minjhu^ Kalm&k^ fee. There are none of these in Yulduz^ only Kalmyk and Khitay. Yuldoz produces wheat= sa^dntaran, h3x\ej=iidrataran^ noe^tutur^Ao, msize =^ ardanakishi, rsnAat^cardsuc^tirik, melon =^^0^ water-melon=^»r^;?^ cacumber=^am«^a^^ opium =iAartamii, egg ^Isjits^jpelin^dn, TpeBi=iermin, apple =a/mtn, &c. All these were grown by the Kalmyk and Khitay i^ Kardshahr in quantity to supply their own wants and all Lob and the Yulduz camps. The only cultivation nowy besides the Musalmdn settlement on the river^ is that around the new fort by the soldiers of the garrison. This fort was built by the Amir at Tawulgah three and a half tdsA north-east &om the city and half a td^A from the river. It is on the plain two days^ journey from Lake Baghr^sh on the souths and four days^ from the moun- tains to the norih. It is of square shape and built of red bricks of which the Chinese left immense piles here ; the fort has one gate on the south side^ and is surrounded by a deep ditch all rounds and on each of its four sides are eight high turrets. It is the best fort in the country; between it and the river is a settlement of 300 farms held by families originally from K£mol; and to the west of the fort is the Shitdn settlement^ which is now deserted and in ruins. The Kalmyk are a distinct people from the Turk tribes of Kdshghar^ and differ from them in origin^ physiognomy^ languagie, religion^ manners^ customs^ and mode of life. They belong to the great Monghol T&rt&r race from the norths and their principal divisions in this region are the following^ viz., Monghol in MonghoUy^ sixteen days^ journey north-east from Ear^shahr; Choktir at Issik ; T^nghut in the Tanghut valley ; Olot and M^njhu in Ila ; Turgdt in Ila, Yulduz^ Ear^shahr and Lob ; Koshot in Yulduz ; Kari Kalmyk in Yuldiiz^ Lob^ Chilchan^ and Tibet; Sarigh Kalmyk in Yulduz^ Lysun, Oriimchi^ and Turf^n; aitd Tuwat in Tuwat or Tubat or Tibet which is also called Joh. All these originally . came from Kok Nor^ which is seven days^ journey north of Mongholay^ and Monghol^y is twelve days' journey north-east of Orumchi. There are besides two other countries of the Kalmyk also called Kok Nor. One is five days' journey north of Orumchi^ and the other is^ beyond Lob, five days' journey to the south of Kuchi. This last is continuous with Ch&chan on the east of Khutan, and in it are the ruins of several ancient cities of which nobody knows anything. The principal of these is called Kok Nor. " Kok Nor means ' blue lake/ and these several countries are so called^ because they have such sheets of water in different parts of their surface. But these ruins of Kok Nor I have myself seen." So says my informant whom I have before introduced as the traveller during thirty years all over this region. " They are on the desert to the east of the Katak ruins^ and three days' journey from Lob in a south-west direction along the course of the Khutan River, The walls are seen rising above the reeds in which the city is concealed." " No. I have not been inside the city^ but I have seen its walls distinctly from the sandy ridges in the vicinity. I was afraid to go amongst the ruins because of the bogs around, and the venemous insects and snakes in the reeds. I was camped about them for several days with a party of Lob shepherds who were here pasturing their cattle. Besides it is a notorious fact that people who do go amongst the ruins almost always die, because they cannot resist the temptation to steal the gold and precious things stored there." '^ You may doubt it, but everybody here knows that what I say is true ; and there are hundreds of Kalmyks who have gone to the temple in the midst of these ruins to worship the God there." " Yes. There is a temple in the centre of the ruins, and in it is the figure of a man. It is of the natural size^ and the features are those of a Kalmak, and the whole figure is of a bright yellow colour. Banged on shelves all round the figure are precious stones and pearls of great size and brilliancy^ and innumerable ydmb or ingots of gold and silver. Nobody has power to take away anything from here." *' This is all well known to the people of Lob. And they tell of a Kalmyk who once went to worship the God, and after finishing his salutation and adorations secreted two ydmb of gold in his fob, and went his way. He had not gone very &r when he was overpowered by a deep sleep and lay down on the road side to have it out. On awaking he discovered that his stolen treasure was gone, though the fob of his debit or frock was as he had closed it. So he went back to the temple to get others, but to his astonishment found the very two he had taken returned to the exact spot from which he had removed them. He was so frightened that he ■4 v^' ■.»'!' asji':',:*v •fiT.U. #Q ^ lip'- 9. — Men oi the Pakpoo tribe living in the Valleys bordering that of the Tisnaf river. i 1^ 10. — Group ol Natives of Kargullik, Nov. 1873. A 1 , . i ; • ( A'-'^* ' ) ■ ( 47 ) prostrated himself before the God and confessing his fault begged forgiveness. The figure looked benignly on him and smiled^ and he heard a voice warn him against such sacrilege in future. He returned to Lob and kept his story secret for a long time till a Lamma discovered and exposed him^ and he was so ashamed that he left the country/' The Kalmyks are entirely a nomadic or pastoral people. They have no towns or cities of their own. They live in Khargdh camps^ which they shift about from place to place according to the seasons and the requirements of their flocks and their crops. Their camps are always pitched in a circle around their patron God who is set up in the centre as their presiding deity and protector. Every tent besides has its own household God who receives the worship of only the occupants of the tent ; but the central God is worshiped by the whole camp^ and nobody passes it without a low bow and always keeping the figure on the right hand ; to pass it on the left is sure to bring down some calamity on the whole community. Should anybody so offend, the whole camp is struck and pitched in some other spot. Cattle are excluded from the centre of the camp lest they should so offend the God. The Kalmyks are all of the Budhist religion. Their idols are called Burkhun collectively, but the chief idol of the camps is called Maddn. It is the figure of a man, and is of copper gilded ; its size is that of a boy twelve years old. Once a year it is fixed against a pole in front of the Khan's Khargah for three days at the commencement of spring ; and the people come and adore by prostrating themselves on the ground before it, and pressing their foreheads against the body of the figure. Every Khargdh has its own idol, and everybody carries a small one suspended by a thread round the neck, and concealed on the breast inside the frock. They are mostly made of copper, though some are of brass. Their religion is kept up by the priesthood called Lamma, and nobody knows their bookd but themselves. The head Lamma of each country is appointed from Tuwat or Joh and usually comes from that country. Every Ealmak father is bound to give up his second or third son to be educatei as a Lamma. When a Lamma dies his body is fleched, and the bones are broken up and tied in a bundle, and kept for transmission to Joh, which is a six months' journey from Kariishahr (my informant in these matters is a Eardshahr Kalmak) by the annual caravan. At the yearly festival held at Joh, the bones of defunct Lammas, brought from all quarters, are boiled in a huge cauldron. On this occasion two or three aged Lammas always sacrifice themselves by jumping into the boiling liquor, and become converted into soup which is called Sholun-arshan. At the conclusion of the festival, this soup is distributed amongst the atten- dant Lammas, who fill it into copper vessels covered with red cloth ; these copper vessels are called Idnkhtty and are carried about the person suspended on one side from the girdle. When all these Lammas disperse and return to their own homes they distribute their store of Sholun^ arshan to the other Lammas who receive it in little copper vessels the size of a thimble and similar in shape to the Unkha, They are always worn slung at the waist from the girdle ; and when he eats the Lamma first dips a wood pencil into the little copper bottle and passes it across his tongue. The Kalmyk language is different entirely from the Turki spoken by the Kirghiz, and Uzbak, and Tartar of K^shghar; and it differs in dialect as spoken by the Manjhu of Ila, the Kalmyk of Yulduz, and the Tuwat of Joh; the Tinghtit and the Monghol too have peculiar languages, and in &ct every tribe has its own speech, which is more or less unintelligible to his neighbours, though of the same race. The Mdnjhu write their language in characters like the Chinese, but the Kalmyk don't write their lang^uage, unless the Lamma do it for them, and then they must read it too. A sample of the Kalmyk language will be found in the comparative vocabulary appended to this general description. They appear to be entirely illiterate, for I could hear of no books amongst them. The Kalmyk people are divided into tribes and clans like the Kirghiz, whom they resemble in their wandering mode of life. The ruler of a whole province comprising* many tribes is called GhaldaUj which is the same as Khan ; and the head or chief of a tribe is called Noyun, which is the same as Beg; the latter titles in each case being those current amongst the Uzbak people. 9 ( 48 ) The Noyun of each tribe administers the government by the aid of a staff of officers the principsJ of whom are the following, viz., Byla or military governor; Bysa or civil governor; Guzda or chief justice, Zangi or Magistrate, under whom are a certain number of Bodukchi or police- men ; Maran or military commandant, under whom are the Cherik or infantry, and Murta-^Cherik or cavalry ; Padinda or controller of water supply, who distributes the streams for irrigation of crops and watering of flocks, &c. ; Lamma or priest ; and Oelin or chaplain. This last is subordinate to the Lamma; he investigates and settles all minor disputes and offences. He has no power to inflict any punishment, his office being of a spiritual nature and his discipline entirely moral. In the case of serious offences — murder and theft are considered the gravest crimes — the investigation is made by the Zangi. His sentence must be approved by the Guzda, and the sanction of the Noyun must be obtained prior to its execution. For abuse or assault, or similar misbehaviour fi>e to twenty stripes are laid on the bare buttocks with a camchi or horsewhip. For injury to cattle, crops, or other property equitable recompense is exacted after reference to the Guzda from whom the appeal lies to the Noyun. If the Noyun rejects the appeal, the appellant may claim the benefit of Andaghar, This is a very sacred ordeal, only resorted to when all other means of redress have failed, and if properly carried out, is held to be conclusive proof of the innocence of the accused. It is always carried out in the presence of the Noyun, supported by the Guzda and Zangi, under the direction of the Lamma and his Gelin. These last assemble the accused and his family and the accuser and his family, and seating them on the ground opposite each other light a fire between them. The Zangi then recapitulates the case briefly and sums up his reasons for awarding judgment against the defen- dant. The Gelin then appeals to plaintiff whether he will force accused to perform Andaghar, or acquit him without putting him to the test. If he assents to the latter course, as is often the case, the suit is dismissed and the parties disperse. Otherwise the Gelin calls on the accused to clear himself, and he does so by simply rising and making water on the fire. This act at once frees him from all odium or blame. But if at the bidding of the Gelin he rises with this intent, and there is no flow within a reasonable time, he is unhesitatingly pronounced guilty and condemned to the original sentence. So great is the dread of this ordeal, simple as it appears, that frequently the accused of murder willingly resigns himself to the extreme penalty rather than face this chance of escape. The punishment for murder is death, but without the shedding of blood by cutting instru- ments or by hanging. Casting blindfold from a high rock is the common mode of execution, or in plain districts harnessing by a noose round the neck to an unbroken horse and driving it across country. The knife is never used in executions, and very often the capital punishment is commuted to fine in cash or cattle paid to the murdered one's heirs. One thousand to two thousand tangas or from two hundred to four hundred rupees is the usual sum paid. Next to murder theft is held to be the most heinous offence, whilst adultery seems to be unknown as a crime. For theft, on conviction of the first offence, the Zangi inflicts from 20 to 40 stripes with a horsewhip. On second conviction the criminal is shut up in a card oe or " Black Chamber'' for three or four months, and then liberated on signing a written paper to forfeit a foot on the next conviction. If so convicted a third time, his foot is cut off at the ankle joint, and the stump plunged into boiling fat to staunch the hemorrhage. The Kalm&ks as a rule live in peace amongst themselves, aud always treat their Lamma with great deference. Their common greeting amongst each other is Munda wdnehi or ** How d'ye do I" but they salute a superior by straightening the right arm towards the ground in advance, dropping the shoulder, and lolling out the tongue to the same side. The common people intermarry only in their own camps, but the Chiefs get wives from the neighbouring tribes as well. There is no limit to the number of a rich man's wives, but the common people only marry one at a time. When a girl arrives at a marriageable age, from fifteen to eighteen years generally, the parents tie a red piece of cloth outside the door of their khargdi to announce the fact of their readiness to part with her. The suitors, with much show of modesty, vie with each other for the possession of the cloth, which is generally carried off stealthily by night ; and the successful possessor declares himself by affixing it to the door of his own tent. The girl's parents now go to him, and bargain the amount of dower — sheep and ( 4.9 ) horses for themselTes, and clothings &c.^ for the bride — and fix a day for the wedding. On the appointed day the suitor mth his friends goes in procession from his own to the bride's tent. He is attended by a Lamma to perform the ceremony of marriage^ and is preceded by two men carrying the CosAu^Aa, which is a broad ornamented screen stretched between two poles. He is received by the girPs parents with greetings of welcome and sounds of music. The bride and bridegroom — who are not unacquainted^ for women here are as free as in Europe — then take seats side by side on the ground. The Lamma repeats a certain formula of prayers^ and the couple are then declared man and wife. The bride's parents feast the company, and entertain them with music and dancing, and archery and horse exercises, &c., for three days. The husband then takes his bride home and for three days similarly entertains her parenl» and bridal party. After this the friends disperse and the married couple settle down to their domesticity. The celibate Lamma according to custom lives with them till the wife becomes a mother, after which he gets his conffe. The bride after quitting her parent's tent is not again allowed to enter till she becomes a mother, but in all her visits, to which there is no restriction, must remain outside the door. The Kalmyk as a rule only marry one wife at a time, and do not practice polyandry^ though till the birth of a child the Lamma is always the husband's partner. The morality of married couples is said to be extremely loose, and the common prostitute orjallab is found in every camp. The birth of a child is always celebrated with rejoicings, but not till the forty days of impurity are passed. The mother then comes out from her seclusion, and receives the con- gratulations of her friends. The Lamma attends and blesses and names the infant, and the occasion is made one of feasting and rejoicing with music and games. If the babe be a son, his head is now shaved, unless he is dedicated to the church. In this case, when old enough to quit his mother's care, he is made over to the charge of a Lamma to be educated. He is never allowed to wear trowsers, only a loin clout under the frock, and in winter cloaks and furs. The common Kalmyk names for men are Jirghdl, Zanjird, Kormashun, Balding, Boyun JirghiU, Chambil, Tarmashin, Eeshit, Dava, Kaynja, Eishikta, Jap, Jowa, Borak, Jaymin, Lima, Khara, Z^loh, T^ybing, and Aywa; and of women Chagan, Shayap, Nohoy, Mdnokhoy, Kharap, Siykhin, Kharamok, Chagan Bilak, D£h, Mohkuban, Jimi Gelin, J^moh, Dangzil, Aghih, Shim, Delbir, Siykhin Sanan, Khar&h, Bighder, Jimbel, Dila, Bor, and others. On the death of a Kalmdk, the hands and feet are tied together, and the body, slung on a pole, is carried to the desert or wilderness, and cast on the ground. The relatives and friends then retire to a little distance and watch for three or four hours to see if any wild animal or bird of prey comes to feed upon it. If so, they return, and carry off the body, and deposit it carefully on some hill top or other exposed place, and there leave it. Sometimes they raise a pile of stones over the corpse, but never bury it under ground ; on leaving the body they wring their hands and wail and praise the deceased, recounting all his virtues as a good and worthy man. If, on the other hand, no wild animal or bird of prey attacks the body in the allotted time, they return and, stripping off the clothes from the corpse, treat it with every indignity, and casting it from them abuse the deceased as a worthless fellow, not even fit food for the vulture. Chiefs and grandees are disposed of with more ceremony. Their bodies are placed in cofiins with their bows and arrows and a supply of food, and carried to some mountain top and there deposited in a lonely and inaccessible spot. The Khan of a tribe is always so disposed of, and is carried to his last resting place by a large concourse of bis subjects. The Kalmyk of Yulduz have no Kh&n now. He went to Bajin several years ago, and has never since been heard of. His wife rules the tribe in his absence. She is cdled Kh^ton Khin, and is guided in the government by an old man, who is a magician. Her age is about thirty years, and she has two sons, one aged ten years and the other eight. Tur/dn. — ^This is the easternmost division of the E^hghar country along the foot of the hills, and borders on the desert of Gobi. It differs from the other divisions in having no rivers, except two or three insignificant streams which become short lived torrents in seasons of flood. The water supply is derived from subterranean conduits brought down ( 60 ) from under ground springs at the foot of the hills ; and where these flow on the surface are planted the farm settlements. These conduits are called karez by the Musalmans^ and khhin by the Khit^y^ and nukhun^bukhd by the Kalmyk ^ some of them flow in a con- siderable stream for many miles and irrigate and fertilize wide tracts of otherwise bare desert. Turf^n extends &om Oumish Akma hills separating it from Kar^shahr valley on the west to Chiktam or Chightam on the borders of the desert on the east^ a distance of foriy task or 200 miles. Chightam is the limit of the Amir's territory eastward. The north boun- dary is an irregular range of hills called Ayghur BuUk Tagh on the west and Kar£ BuULk Tigh on the east ; whilst the southern border is an undefined line on the desert waste separating it from Lob. Within these limits the population is reckoned at 18^000 houses, or at seven per house 126,000 souls; but it does not contain anything like that number now. After the capture of TSAahi and the destruction of the Ehoja power there by the Amir, the Turf&n State for a brief period formed part of the principality ruled by Daud Khalifa, till it was wrested from him by the ^conqueror as mentioned in the History. Under the Chinese this division was one of the most populous and flourishing of all the States of K&shghar, but it has suffered frightfully during the late revolution of the Tungani and succeeding conquest by the Amir, and now it is described as a long succession of ruined farmsteads and barely tenanted settlements. Its city, which is called Kuhna Turf ^ or '' Old Turf &n'' in distinction to l/sh Turf&n in the west, was a thriving commercial city on the great caravan route between China and Western Asia, and the several lesser towns of the division were active seats of life and industry, but both their merchants and their wealth alike have disappeared in the recent troubles. Turfdn is described as a strong walled city surrounded by populous suburbs all watered by numerous Karez streams. Its population were mostly Khit&y and Tungani, and numbered 6,000 houses in and around the city, which was protected by a citadel with a garrison of 3,000 men. It was the emporium for the silks and teas of China, and had manufactures of leather and woollen fabrics of its own. The common fuel of the ciiy was coal brought from the Sirkip hills to the north-east. It is of brown, colour and much inferior to'* that found at Aksu, which is black, and bums welL The city is now in a decayed state with less than half its former population, and is entirely cut off from communication with China, whence it derived its wealth. It is held as a military post by a strong garrison of the AmiVs troops who, to the number of 5,000 men, are quartered in the citadel, and a new fort built on the EJiokand model close to the city. The other principal places in this division are the following, viz., Tokhsun, a small fortified town on the KarHshahr road, 600 houses including the suburbs. Dab&nchi, a hill castle, on the road north to Orumchi, 500 houses with the suburbs. Sub&hi, a market town of 300 Khit&y homesteads, now in ruins. Kar& Khoja, a Musalm&n settlement of 500 houses. Maz&T Abul Fatt4h, 300 houses, Musalmdn market town. Lukchun, 2,000 houses, on the Oochang Biver which in floods reaches Lob ; this is a market town, and its farmsteads spread many miles north and south along the course of the rivulet ; though the fields are irrigated by Karez streams. Up to this the country all the way from Turfln, a distance of fifty miles, is a succession of farmsteads held by Musalmdns. Beyond, across a strip of desert waste, is another Musalm&n settlement (as in fact are all the peopled places, though many of the holdings in each are tenantless), Pich^n, 500 houses, and a Khit&y fort on a small stream &om Oochang Tagh; and beyond again is the frontier outpost of Chightam, 100 houses. Gochang, at the foot of the hills to the north, is a market town of 400 houses. Yangi-Khhin to its south 100 farms. Sirkip at foot of hills 200. And all the other settlements 6,500. Total 18,000 houses. The soil of Turf^n is described as similar to that of K^hghar, but more gravelly, and the productions are the same, though the climate is said to be much milder. The cotton produce here — Sireet Hawkers in the square of the Mess Room of ihe British Embassy in Yarkund, Nov. 1873. 2. — Street Hawkers, Yarkund. T-Llv'-h v< '^^* • < -* r- LK"' . r ... .. ( 51 ) is exported to Cluna. Ezoellent melons are produced in all parts of the division^ and its grapes and green raisins are the finest in the country. They are exported to K^hghar and preserved in the fresh state for winter use. In the desert to the south the wild camel and wild horse are said to be plentiful. The former is described as a small^ thin limbed^ double humped animal with a very soft warm wool of light brown colour. Huntsmen declare it to be a very vicious animal and extremely swift^ and state that it flies at its pursuers with boldness when brought to bay^ and attacks with great ferocity^ biting and kicking, and when wounded vents its rage upon itself. It is always at enmity with its fellow partners in the wastes of the desert^ and hunts the wild horse off its own grazing grounds. j^oi^ — Xhis is the name of a district on the banks of the T&rim River, which is formed by the union of all the rivers from Yuldiiz of Ila round by the western circuit of K^shghar to Khutan and Chachan. It is a vast region of swamps which succeed each other from the junction of the united streams of Kucha and Kurla with the T&rim on the west, and extend thirty days' journey east and south on to the Gobi desert. On the edge of this desert, beyond the inhabited swamp tract, is a lake five days in circuit, and from it a great river goes out to the east. The lake is quite uninhabited, and is in the midst of a desert of white salt at three days' journey from the Lob settlements. " There are no mountains in Lob, but the ground between the bends of the river and the swamps is thrown into cliffs, and banks, and ridges of sand and gravel. Between these the country is undulating sand, and near the water is covered with reeds and forests of poplar and tamarisk, but there is no willow. Some of the gravel ridges are higher than Kayrdgh at Yangi Hissar (about 300 feet), and higher than the Hazrat Begum ridge (about 600 feet), but they are all lower than the Kurugh Tdgh which separates Lob from Kardshahr on the north, and lower too than the hills which separate it from Ch&chan on the south ; but these last are a great way off on the desert, and nobody ever goes there or knows anything about them. Why ask what they consist of ? Everything here is sand, and salt, and nothing else.*' Such in substance is what I learned from a Kalmyk of Kar&shahr who knew Lob well. I shall quote him and a fellow tribesman, and two oflScers in the Amir's service, who visited the country during the Turfin campaign, as I proceed with this brief notice of the district : — " Lob is reached from all directions along the course of the several rivers flowing to it. Thus from Khutan by the Khutan Daryi ; from Maralbashi by the Yarkand Darya through Dolan settlements nearly all the way ; from Aksu to Ara Mahalla by the Aksu Darya ; from Kucha to the same settlement by the Muzirt Darya, and so on. From Kurla I know the road well, as I have travelled it several times. It is four days' journey. The first stage is Ydrkuriil, four task, over a sandy waste with reeds, pools, and poplars here and there on the route. Second stage Konchi, five task, across similar country to the Tirim river below where it is joined by a river coming from Kucha and Kurla. Third stage, four task, on the desert of sand hills, salt wastes, reeds, and pools. Fourth stage, Kar^kochun, five tosh, across similar desert to the reed huts of Kalmyk and Kirghiz MusaLmiins on the river bank. Here Lob begins, and goes east and south along the course of the Tdrim. It consists of many settlements on the marshy lakes and their connecting channels. The whole tract is called Lob, but this is Lob Proper, The other settlements to the west form distinct districts and are called Kar^kochun, Lyso, and Ara Mahalla. There are others, but these are the principal seats of population. Everywhere the river banks are low, hardly raised above the river stream, and are covered with broad or narrow belts of jangaL This consists of a tall reed called comtisA, and a shorter and different reed called cAipA, and of the poplar or ioghracy and the tamarisk or yulghun ; the willow or 9ugai is not seen here. ^^ Lob was only peopled a hundred and sixty years ago by emigrant families of the Kar£ Kalmyk, Koshot, Turgut, &c., to the number of a thousand houses. They are now all professedly Musalmins, and have Mulld and Imam priests amongst them, but they don't know much about Islam. We look on them with contempt as only half '^ Musalm^n." " No, I am not a Kalmak, thank God." " Yes, ray ancestors were, but I am a Musalm^n, God be praised ! And my father was before me." " Yes, there were other people in Lob before these Kalmyk emigrants came, but nobody knows who they are or anything about them. They are h ( 52 ) called Fdwa Kishi or ''wild peopV and delight to live with the wild beasts and their cattle in the thickets and brakes about the marshes/^ ''No; I have never seen any of them^ but I have heard the Lob people talk of them. They are small black men with long matted hair and shun the society of other men. Whenever they see any of the Lob people they run away and hide in the reeds and thickets. Nobody knows where they come from or where they live^ and nobody understands their language. They are said to have boats like the Lob people^ but they never mix with them. They are supposed to have some settlement in the marshes to the south-east.*'— " Yes, the country is a very large one, and nobody knows its extent or boundaries, for the people never go out of their own limits, but they cannoj) be veiy many, or they would band together and drive out the Musalmin settlers. These people are very timid amongst other men, but, though only armed with bow and arrow and a long pike, they are brave hunters. They keep cattle, but have no cultivation what- ever. They wear clothes of a material called Hf. It is very coarse and strong, and is also worn by the people of Lob who weave it into cloths of varying texture, some of which are very light and fine." " Yes. As you say so, the name of the country may be derived from this material, but nobody here ever said so. God only knows the truth I though the distinction is plain enough. We call the country Lob, and the material luf " No, I never heard the name Lob Nor. I have heard the names Lop and Lop Kol j they are only the Kirghiz pronunciation of Lob.'' " Yes. There are hundreds of families of Kirghiz shep- herds scattered all about the Lob camps. They came originally from the K^ksh^l and Bdghti camps away to the north, and are very good friends with the Kalmak." " The stuff called luf is the fibre of a plant called toca-chigka which grows in plenty all over the sandy wastes bordering the marshes. It is not found here (Y&ngi Hissdr), and only grows in Lob. The material made from it too is never seen anywhere but in Lob, and is only worn by the people of that country. It protects the wearer from the attacks of gnats and musquitos, which never alight on this cloth. The plant has a flower and bears a pod like the wild liquorice here. The luf is thus prepared. The stalks are cut close to the ground and stripped of leaves ; they are then thrown into a pit full of water, and left there till they rot ; they are now pounded with a mallet, and the bark torn off in long shreds ; bundles of this bark are again thrown into a pit of water till it ferments and stinks ; the stuff is then taken out and pounded till it separates into fibres ,* these are shaken clear, and spread in the sun to bleach ; and finally they are spun into thread and woven into cloth for shirts and trowsers. It is the dress of ul the people of Lob, and is made in every campment." The population of Lob Settlement is reckoned at 1,000 houses, but that of the whole swamp region eastward from the borders of Marfilbdshi to the Gobi desert is about 10,000 houses, or, at seven per house, 70,000 souls. There are no permanent dwellings here, nor are there any of the Kharg&h tents which the Kirghiz call dc-^oe. The people live in reed huts or else in boats. The reed hut is called Kippa, and is a mere frame work of reeds, sometimes plastered with mud. They are dotted about in clusters of three or four or more, and are usually broken up and deserted when the tenants migrate to some other spot. The people are mostly Kirghiz and Kalmyk, and their language is a corrupt dialect of the Kirghiz Turki. The Karikochdn District is entirely peopled by Cochin Kirghiz originally from the N&rin valley. " There is no cultivation in Lob. The people live on fish, and the produce of their flocks and of the chase. In April and May they collect, and eat raw the soft young shoots of a water plant called suya ; it has a long stem like a reed, but is different both from the eamuik and the eMgi. The people have immense numbers of sheep, cows, and horses ; but the mule, the donkey, and the cat are unknown in the country. They are all now subjects of the Amir, but only pay an annual tribute of twenty-two otter skins, and nothing else. They govern themselves according to their own customs, and have no officer on the part of the Amir to interfere with them. The Governor of Turf&n every year sends an agent to collect the tribute and revenue; but the people drive off their cattle into the mazes of the reed swamps, and take to their boats, and the tax gatherers wander about for a few days, and then go away frightened of the country. The arms of the people are the bow and arrow, matchlock, gun, pike, and sword. They always swear upon the g^n which^ as here, they call miltic. If any ( 53 ) one wishes to free himself from an accusation^ he appeals to the aocucf^r to prodnce his g^n^ and kissing the muzzle places it against his left nipple and bids him fire. This throws the responsibility upon the accuser^ who on this proof of innocence retracts his calumny. AU the people here are brave huntsmen^ but they have a great respect for human life^ and are very much afraid of death. " They are a very hardy and healthy people, and have no diseases except a kind of ague called bazgak. They have a great horror of small-pox, which they call ^a;»a»=' the evil.' If the disease should appear amongst them, the whole community immediately abandon the locality and leave the afflicted with only one attendant and a supply of food. If the patient recovers, he is not admitted to society till the expiry of forty days. When the Amir conquered the country he summoned the Chief of Lob to K^hghar ; the old man had never seen the disease and got it there ; and he was so frightened that he set out to return home, but died on the road; and when his attendants returned with the intelligence the people all ran away from them till the forty days were passed. Snake bites are very common, and the people have an efficient remedy for it; they catch a frog, rip open its belly, and tie it over the wound; this affords immediate relief. Another remedy is a sort of gum or fungus found at the stumps and on the boughs of the toghrdc or '^ poplar'^ tree ; there are two kinds called card and dc or " black'' and " white'' toghrdgho respectively ; the black is the kind used ; it is powdered and mixed into a paste with water or spittle and so applied to the wound ; it affords immediate relief. There is one kind of snake called dur ; its bite is immediately fatal; nothing cures it. People say that if the MuUd repeats the Kalma and breathes dam upon the wound, a cure is certain. 6od only knows ; but in Lob he never arrives till the snake-bitten is dead. ''The wild animals of Lob are the wild camel =syawa thuga!* ''Yes. I have seen the animal myself ." ^" No, I never killed one ^myself. I 'have seen one which was killed by huntsmen of the camp to which I belonged. It is a small animal^ not much bigger than a horse, and has two humps. It is not like a tame camel ; its limbs are very thin, and it is altogether slim built. I have seen them on the desert together with herds of wild horses. They are not timid, and don't run away at the sight of a man. They do nothing unless attsfcked; they then run away, or else they turn and attack the huntsman ; they are very fierce^ and swift in their action as an arrow shot from the bow ; they kill by biting and trampling under foot^ and they kick too like a cow. They are hunted for the sake of their wool, which IB very highly prized, and is sold to Turf&n merchants. " Another animal is the wild horse =:(^^». It is the size of a pony, has high withers and a narrow barrel. It is only hunted for sport. Another is the stag=di^itf. It is hunted for its autters, which are taken to Turf^n for the Bajin market. Thete are besides, the tiger = haty the wolf=e;Aona, the panther =iffo/i^», the ljBX=:9ules4fty the fox=ara^«, and the otter=s tuyujfi. All these are hunted for their furs, as are the BWSkJi=coddy, and the pelican = eardcitidn/' "Yes. This is a swan's skin (shewing one bought at Kishghar), and comes from Lob. It is the only place in this country where the bird is found. There are immense numbers of wild fowl of all sorts on the lakes, and they breed there. " The customs of the people of Lob are much the same as those of the Kirghiz, but there is one which is met nowhere else. During the spring and summer seasons the young people are in the habit of racing along the river. A party of six or eight maids forms up on the rive^, each in her own skiff ; and a party of as many youths forms up on the bank, each on his own horse. At an agreed signal they all start off to an appointed goal, the maids paddling down the stream, and the youths galloping along the bank. If the maids win, they select a partner for the night from amongst the youths, each in the order of her arrival at the winning post; similarly if the youths win, they chose their companion in turn from amongst the maids. The contract only lasts for that nighty and the couplings vary with the chances of each successive race, though often the same partners meet. If a girl becomes pregnant, she points out the author, and he marries her. " There are innumerable camp and pasture grounds in Lob, but the principal permanent camps are Ara Mahalla, Lyso, Kar&kochun, Jar&lik, Salih-AkhiSn, Kalm&k tJldiy Khit&y Keldi^ and Khatt Koydi. This last is towards the south-east^ and is the Umit of Khit&y territory ( 54 ) and aathoritj. In the time of the Khitdj lots of traders used to come to Lob from Turffin^ and Karfishahr^ and Kiichft ; they nsed to bring flour^ sngar^ honey^ tea, cotton cloths, old clothes, spices, knives, needles, and snch like, and barter them for otter skins, camels' wool, stags' horns, swans' down, furs of sorts, sheep, horses, and cows. All this trade has ceased now, but occasionallj the Lob people bring their cattle, furs, &c., to Kuchi and Kurla and go back with com, flour, and cotton cloth." Such is the result of my enquiries regarding the Lob division, and I have put it very much in the form I received it. It is certainly not without interest. MardlbdsM. — This division occupies a wide extent of desert plain, and lies between the territories of Lob and K£shghar. Its north limit is at Kalpin on the Acsay river, and its south at Mihnat Ortang on the Yarkand river, which to its junction with the Tdrim also forms its east border ; its west border is a wide sandy desert which joins the K£shghar territory at Yangabad. \\a population is reckoned at 5,000 houses, or, at seven per house, 35,000 souls, and they are almost exclusively of an outcast Tartar tribe called Dol or Dolan, a term which is said to signify ^^ boor." The general character of the country is an arid sandy waste, and the poverty of the people is in keeping with that of their country. Their principal settlement and head- quarters are at Mar^lb^shi, which is also an important military post commanding the approaches to K£shghar and Yarkand from the north-east. The Chinese had a strong fort and garrison of 8,000 men here, and the Amir maintains the post with a garrison, however, of only 300 men. The other settlements of the Dolan are mostly along the course of the Yarkand river, and next to their capital at Mar&lbashi, which only contains 400 houses, is B4rchak in import- ance. It is situated at the junction of the Yarkand river with the T^rim, and contains 300 houses, and is an important military post, as it commands the routes from Aksu and Kuch£ to the southward. The other principal settlements are Ch^rbdgh or Jabbak, Tumshuk (where are the extensive ruins of an ancient city with stone walls and fragments of sculpture)^ Chil^n, and Kalpin to the north, and Aksak Maril, Taskama, Markit, Mughol Tdrim, Laelak, &c., to the south. A peculiar feature of the DoUn settlements is the nature of their dwellings, which are all underground ; a point in which they resemble the Dolp£ of Tibet, as described in the Tarikhi BasAidi of Mirz^ Hydar. These dwellings of the DoUn are described by my informants as consisting of oblong pits dug in the ground, and roofed with a thatch of reeds supported upon poplar beams. The roofs rise very little above the surface of the ground, and their settlements are consequently not discernible till the traveller is actually moving over the roofs. They are miserable hovels in which the family consorts with its cattle, sheep, and asses, but prove an efficient shelter from the keen frosts of winter, and afford a grateful retreat from the scorching heats of summer. The Doldn, owing to the sterile nature of the soil, have next to no cultivation. They own small herds of oxen and flocks of goats and sheep ; but their principal wealth is in asses of which humble, and in this country most useful, drudge they possess incredible numbers. Their trade and communications are almost exclusively with Yarkand, whither they carry to market fuel, potashes, salt, butter, and a sort of curd cheese called Suzma, together with the skins of foxes and birds, and a coarse cordage or rope made of the fibre of the poplar tree, as also another production from the same source, called ioghragho ; it is a sort of fungous decay of the trunk of the poplar, and is sold in the bazars as a ferment in baking. They carry back in exchange for these cotton cloth (generally dyed of a drab colour) flour, bread, and the bis- cuits, called culcAa, beef, horseflesh, boots, shoes, caps, &c. The Dolfin are a very poor and illiterate people. Their chief occupations are tending their herds, collecting fuel and impure desert salt for the city market, and trapping foxes and birds for their skins. Their arms are the matchlock and pike, but they are looked on as a mean and despicable set. They nominally profess Islam, and call their priests KAoja, and worship them instead of Khuda, They have no jealousy with respect to their women, and it is the custom for the master of the house to place his wife at the disposal of his guest and retire to a neigh- bour's hovel till his departure. So common, it is said, is this custom that the wife receives her ( w ) guests at discretion^ and the shoes placed outside the door is the sign for the hnsband that he most not enter. The DoMn are said to be of Kalm&k origin. I saw several of them at Yarkand. They are physically a very ifferior race and their mental capacity of the meanest. They are short in stature and small in limb^ with retreating forehead and repulsive features of dark com- plexion^ and Tartar cast of countenance. In general appearance they resemble the Bot of Tibet^ though^ as Musalm&ns^ they shave the head. They tedk a dialect of Turkic but amongst them- selves use a language nobody understands. They are said to be a very timid and simple people^ and generally shun society. This last trait may be attributed to the treatment they receive from society, for the name of DoUn is sufScient to condemn the owner to every kind of drudgery much on a par with the ass he owns, and which too he perpetually rides. Sirikol of the maps and SdrCgh K41 or Sirikul of native writers is a small highland division on the south-west frontier of K^hghar. Its name signifies ^' Yellow Glen/' and the hills are described as of a light coloured rock similar to those about ShahiduUa Khoja on the south fron- tier of Yarkand, which are of micaceous schist, friable trap, and granite. It is separated on the west from the Wakhin District of Badakshan by the Shindu range, which is crossed by a pass or iotal of the same name down to Akta8h='^ White Rock '* at its western base. This is the limit of Sdrigh Kul or Sirikul territory in this direction and the commencement of Wakhifcn ; and it marks the boundary between the possessions of Amir Sher Ali Khan A%han of ELabuI and Amir Muhammad Yaktjb Khan Uzbak of Kishghar. S&righ Kul or Sirikul is an entirely mountainous district wedged in at the point of junction of the Bolortagh range with that of the Hindu Kush, where it joins the great Himalaya chain. To the northward and westward it is separated from the Pamir by the Tagharma mountain and its emanations, and to the southward and eastward from the independent little States of Yasin and Kunjud by the Muzt&gh or ^^ Glacier Mountain " and its lofty western peaks called Taghning Bash or Taghdumbash or '* Mountain Head,^' where meet, as in the point of sec- tion of a cross, the four great mountain systems of the Central Asian Continent, viz,, the Himalaya and Hindu Kush separating Tartary from India, and the Suleman and Bolor ranges dividing those two g^reat countries into their respective distinct geographical regions ; the table- lands of Khurasan and the plains of India on the one hand, and the valley of the Oxus and the basin of the T&rim on the other. In its central part S^righ Ki51 forms an open valley of some twenty miles by five into which the glens around conduct their drainage. The several streams coalesce at different points to form the S&righ Kill river, which winds eastward and joins that of Yarkand in the vicinity of Kosharab on the hill skirt. In this plain is settled the bulk of the population in a number of villages dotted along its mountain holders and on the course of its river. The capital amongst these is Tashkorghan or '' Stone Fort '* described as a small gquare structure defended by a turret bastion at each angle, and supported by an adjacent village of some 200 houses. It stands on the river bank and its name is sometimes used to designate the whole district. "The population of S£righ Kul is entirely different from that of the rest of the country, and is purely Aryan. It is reckoned at 2,500 houses, or at seven per house 17,500 souls. Their principal villages in the Tashkorghan valley are Shindi, Taghnam, Barangsdl, Kesarov, Baldir, Armalagh, Miryang, W&cha, Kichik Tting, Tung, Chusbmdn, and Tiznif, and others in the glens around. At t£e foot of Taghilrma mountain, about two tosh north-west of Tashkorghan, in a small glen, are the hot springs called Sim Kang. Though there is a great glacier — here called Pir-yakh — on the top of this mountain, fed annually by four months^ constant snow from December to March, these springs are boiling hot and emit clouds of steam as they issue from tiie rock ; they have been conducted into covered tanks a short distance off, and are used by the pec^le as medicinal baths for the cure of rheumatism and allied diseases ; anybody can use them, and the custom is for the bathers to strip and lie in the water for two or three hours daily during several days.'' The climate of this division is very salubrious, though the winter is a long' and rigorous season during which much snow falls. Spring, summer, and autumn are one season here and ( 56 ) last from May to October ; during this period rain falls occasionally in July^ but storms of thunder and lightning are unknown in the country. " I have lived in the country all my life/' says my informant^ a native of Tung, aged about forty years, *' but I have never seen such ^ storm as you describe in which the sky flashes fire and the clouds maUl a noise/' " Yes, I know what a cloud is, and what a fog is. They often hide the mountains and everything else from view. I know what an earthquake is too ; they sometimes shake the ground, and tumble down our walls, but the mountains never growl, nor do the clouds grumble. ^' When there is no snow on the groui^d pasture is abundant everywhere, but trees are scarce all over the country. At Tung there are some mulberry trees=:uzma, and the s.pncot= nasi; and there are no other fruit trees in the country, nor any of other kinds except the juniper = umbdrts and the arbor vita ?=^i^ which only grow in the mountains ; the willow =3e7a»^' is common on aU the water-courses.'^ ^^ All the villages have their cultivated fielda. The crops are wheat and barley, two kinds of bean, and a pulse called makh. Carrots and turnips are also grown. The people have lots of cattle such as 8heep=^fl'^A, goats=t;fl2f, horse=t;(>f;, GdjaiA^=shutuT, cow=zau, grunting ox^^cotds, hybrid oiL=staur, the dog, cat, and fowls. The sheep, hybrid cattle, and cotds are the most numerous. Their wool and their butter are bartered with Yarkand traders for cotton cloth and silk cloaks, &c. The rate is one sheep for three pieces of iarbds or ikdm of 10 jaidB each ; that is one sheep for thirty yards of cloth. Wheat and barley are bartered with the Kirghiz for felts and horses. No coin is current in S^righ Kul, everything is by barter. The people have no need of money. They live on the produce of their cattle and fields, and make their own clothing. Only two materials are made in the country, viz,, a thick sort of felt called jayn, and a warm woollen stuff called galim, for cloaks, blankets, &c. It is very strong and warm, and is the common dress of the people. It is made in every village and almost by every family for itself. ^^ The people of S^righ Kul came originally from Shighn^n, and their language is the same as that spoken by the Shighni. They have no special tribal name, but simply call themselves Sdrigh Kiili. By the people of Kashghar they are called Tdjik, and the neighbour- ing Kirghiz call them Sdrt, but they never apply these terms to each other. The W^khi and Badakhshi, who are similarly denominated Tajik and Sdrt by their neighbours of Kashghar and Bukh£r£ on either hand, always call us S^righ Kuli ; and this is our proper appellation just as W&khi is that of the people of Wakhin, and Badakhshi is that of the people of Badakh- shan, or Shighni that of lliose of Shighndn, and Bosh&ni that of those of Roshan. ^^ The S&rfgh Kuli and the Shighni are one people. We speak the same language and have the same customs. The W^khi and Badakhshi are a different people, and we don't under- stand each other's speech." " Yes. They are called T6 jik as we are, and like us too they are of the Shia sect, but we consider them different, and only our Chie& intermarry with them." '^ Yes. There is a sprt of brotherhood of all the Shia tribes of Badakhsh&n, Bosh&n, Shighn^n, Wakhan, Chitral, Y^sin, Kunjud, Gilgit, and Y^ghist^n down to Kashmir itself, because our Sunni neighbours revile us and call us £afizi=" Heretic"; and some of them don't allow that we are Musalmdns unless we call ourselves CAdrydr^." " There are lots of Sunni families living amongst the SAh everywhere, and there are about a hundred Sunni families in S&righ Ktil. The Chiefs and Nobles everywhere call themselves Chdrydri and thus become Sunni, but I don't know what the difference is. They are our rulers and can do as they like; we are only poor people and don't know anything about these matters ; we only do as our fathers did before us. " Formerly our Chiefs used by way of punishment to sell some of us into slavery, and in our wars with our Sunni neighbours — the Kirghiz especially — such as fell into their hands were always enslaved, and we used to retaliate by treating their captives in like manner. No. We never ill treat slaves unless they rebel or try to escape, but we could dispose of them in barter as we pleased. If the slave is clever and docile, we give him a wife and settle him amongst us, but he is always the property of his original captor or purchaser. All this is changed now since the rule of At&l^ Ghazi. Formerly lots of slave boys and girls as well as men used to pass up from Kunjud and Chitr&l to Badakhshfa for the Bukhlrri market, but / ( 57 ) this too is now stopped b^ the Russians. There are about a hundred slaves in S^righ Eul now^ mostly from Kunjud and Gilgit and Chitrdl. The people of Kunjud are different from us^ SArigh Kulis, and speak quite a different language/' *' Yes, I have been in Kunjud. I know the capital; it is called Hunza; it is a large city of 1,000 houses on the river which goes to Gilgit. It has a strong fort in which the King resides. His name is Ghazan Khan, and he is l£e son of Shih Ghtusanfar, son of SAlim Khdn, son of Khisro Kh&n, son of H&yish Kh^n. He is a Sunni and a friend of Mir Futh Ali Sh^h of Fjz&hid, but his people are almost all SAia. " The Kunjudi are enemies of the S^rfgh Kiili ; but now we are under the rule of Atalik Ghdzi our warfare has ceased with them as it has with with the Kirghiz. In the time of Kh4n Kuli, who died nine or ten years ago, we always had an outpost at Jud Bay to watch the Kunjud road, and one at Tigharma against the Kirghiz, because they were constantly making plundering raids into our territory. Since the Atilik's rule the people of S&righ Kul are prosperous and live in peace. His Governor, Sain Sh^h (Toksib^y Husen Sh&h, Andijdni), is a just Ruler, and does not oppress the people as his predecessor, Muhammad Arif, did. He collects the revenue and governs the country through the elders of the people. *' These are called Aksaidl, and there are two in each village. They collect the Zaikdt or one in forty of cattle and live stock, and the 'ushr or tithe of the crops and produce of the fields, and pay it over to ihe Governor for the At&lik. They control the conduct of their villagers, settle disputes by fine and maintain order amonst the people. Theft is punished by confiscation of cattle or ejection from their lands in favour of the plaintiff. Adultery is punished by the death of both parties. Murder is unknown in the country. When a man dies his estate is divided into three equal parts. Half of one of these thirds goes to the King, and the remain- der is divided equally amongst the heirs male. " The marriage customs are these. The suitor pays the girPs father 30 tilds = Rupees 175, in sheep, cattle, horses, &c., and then a day is fixed for the wedding. The ceremony is per- formed by the mulld or priest in the presence of the assembled relatives and neighbours, and the occasion is celebrated by a toi or feast, with music and dancing. The bride and bride- groom sit down on the floor side by side, and the priest standing opposite repeats a short prayer, and then in the presence of the assembled witnesses, three several times asks the bride m a slow and solemn voice— ^ Dost thou accept this man as thy husband ? ' And she each time replies ^ I do.' He then three successive times asks the bridegroom — ^ Dost thou take this woman as thy wife ? ' And he each time answers ^ I do.' The priest then takes a bit of roast mutton, divides it into two morsels, repeats a prayer over them, breathes upon each bit, and then dipping them separately into a dish of salt, puts that in his right hand into the man's mouth, and that in his left hand into the woman's. He then turns to the witnesses and says ' These two are man and wife. Whom God has joined let n6 man separate.' This ends the ceremony. The bride and bridegroom rise and receive the congratulations and offerings of their friends, and during three days entertain the guests with music, dancing, games, &c. Camels, horses, and sheep, according to the rank and means of the party, are slaughtered for the feast, and on the third day the guests disperse, and at sunset the bridegroom takes his bride to his own home. '' For every wedding the father of the bride pays two tild to the King, and the bride- groom one tild, but nothing is paid on the birth of a child. The event, however, is celebrated by a feast to the relatives and friends. Divorce is not known, nor, except by the Chiefs, is a second wife taken during the life of the first. Widows can re-marry after one year of mourning, and the occasion is celebrated by a feast. If she do not re-marry on the expiry of the year, she leaves the protection of her deceased husband's relatives, and returns to her father's home. Women take part in the field labour, and have the entire control of the house- hold arrangements, and as a rule they are treated with every respect and confidence by the men. In society they are as free as the men and know not the veil. Only the wives and daughters of the Chiefs are veiled and secluded. Kirghiz of Aldtdgh and Pdmir. — This division of the country comprises a very extended curve of highland plateaux, and the valleys conducting from them to tiie lowlands, all round ( 58 ) the western frontiers of the country from K&kshil on the north, roand by Tirik Daw&n and Tagh&rma, to Kardkash on the south. Its continuity is interrupted in the south-west by the Sdrigh Kul division above described, but for the rest its most notable peculiarify is the utter absence, other than militaiy outposts, of fixed habitation or cultivation. Yet it has ^ permanent population which, within the limits of its several divisions, regularly migrates from the low to the high lands according to the seasons, and on each roams as the necessities of its requirements may dictate. And this periodical movement from one region to the other is attended by a noteworthy, though temporary, transfer of allegiance from one ruler to another, except ia the southern portion of the division which is whoUy within the Amir's limite. This anomalous arrangement is the result of the existing distribution of this natural home of the Kirghiz between three different rulers — the Russians, the Khan of Khokand, and the Amir of K&shghar. Their respective shares in this partitioned territory are not very accu- rately defined, but this much appears to be certain that the summer and winter quarters of certain of the nomad camps are in the territories of different rulers. Thus the Kirghiz of Kdksh&l, which is K^shghar territoiy, in summer pasture on the upper Narin and Atb^hi beyond Chidir Kol, which is Russian territory, and are there joined by the nomads of Aktdgb, which is the name of that part of the AUtigh range between Childir Kol and Tirik Daw^n ; now the camps in the southern valleys of Aktigh are K&shghar subjects right up to the sources of the Tuman river on which the capital stands, whilst those in the northern valleys draining to Uzkand are Khokand subjects ; and both in summer pasture on Russian territory. Similarly the Kirghiz of Kardt^gh, the range extending from the Tirik Dawin to T^harma, who are all K^shghar subjects, roam the plateaux of Aliy and Kizil Art with the Kirghiz of Osh and Andij&n, who are Khokand subjects, as their common summer pastures ; though the territory belongs to K&shghar, and has done so since its first annexation, together with S^righ Kul, by Mirza Ab&bakar at the period of the Uzbak invasion about the end of the fifteenth century, as is recorded in tiie Tarikhi Raskidi, The author of that book states that Ab&bakar conquered all this hill region up to Silrigh Chop&n or Tangi Wakhin and annexed it to the diwan or ^^ Civil jurisdiction'^ of Kishghar, but left ^e low valleys of Badakshin on the west to the Uzbak invaders. In our maps this elevated tableland is called " P^mir steppe,'' but it is not known specifically by this name to the Kirghiz, who are its only frequenters. So &r as I can judge from the descriptions given to me by several Kirghiz whom I have questioned on the subject the general configuration of the country would seem to resemble that of the Khur^sin range of tablelands extending from Mashhad to Mekrin, or the tablelands of BelochisUin from Khozd^r to Shil, botii of which I have seen. This ^&mir steppe (which in this account, though the name is not known to the Kirghiz, I have designated Bolort^gh, as that is the name by which the region is spoken of in the TdHkhi Raskidi) bears some noteworthy points of topographical resemblance to the Khur^sin range. Both are cross ranges running north and south to connect parallel mountain systems whose main direction is east and west, and both separate wide plains or river basins. Thus the Khur^n tablelands connect the Alburz range with that of Mushti in Belochist^n, and separates the hydrographic basin of Sisi4n from the corresponding basin in the desert of Yezd and Kirm&n. So the tablelands of Bolor connect the AUtigh range with that of Himalaya, and separate the basin of the T^rim from that of the Oxus. These latter, too, from the descriptions I have heard, would seem to resemble the Khur^s^n highlands in their general features of arrangement. Thus they are characterized as consisting of a number of subordinate ranges which run parallel to each other, and enclose between them those open spreads of pasture plateaux, here called pdmir and in Khurisin Julaga or Jilga. These drain according to the direction of the hills and the lie of the land either to the east or to the west, by insignificant streams which coalesce and form considerable rivers only after they have passed beyond the plateaux. In one respect the pdmir and the jilga differ ; the former owing to the prohibitory nature of the climate and altitude have no fixed habitations whatever, whereas the latter^ not as a rule, but only where climate and elevation admit, have such permanent abodes as villages, gardens and fields. Many of these plateaux, ( 69 ) however^ both in the highlands of Belochist&n and Khar&s^n^ have no permanent dwellings, and in no respect differ from the jE7<£mr, like which, too, they are in summer the scenes of bnsy life and activity, crowded by the camps and cattle of nomad tribes, who there is reason to believe are not so separate in race as they are in territorial distribution. The tuman of the Br&hoe in Belocbist^n, the aul of the Ily^t in Persia, and the ayil of the Kirghiz in K^bghar, and even the Kizdi of the nomad Afghan, all bear a common family resemblance; and through the very words designating their camps, whilst suggesting a common origin, offer a most inviting field for historical and philological investigation. The plateaux shared in summer by tiie Kilshghar Kirghiz of Kar&t^gh and the Khokand Kirghiz of Osh and Andij^n are called Miy in the northern half and Kizil Art in the southern, and are bordered on the west by an interrupted chain of mountains similar to those on the east. It has no general name, but each more prominent ridge is called separately, just as each separate pdmir has its distinguishing appellation known only to the Kirghiz, and not veiy definitely or generally even to them, for half a dozen different men will give each a different name to one and the same peak. " What's the use of writing down so many names V^ said an impatient Kirghiz whom I had worried with interrogatories a whole forenoon, till he was sore from shifting his seat from heel to heel, and escaped from further torture on the plea that his horse was left starving in the cold. " We call one country AMy and another Kizil Art, and we call every spread of pasture jE?a«»ir, just as we call a stony phon say, and a slope at the foot of the hills sirt." '' No. The chol is different; there is none in our country; it is only on this plain of K^shghar; any place is cAol where the ground is arid, and bare, and slightly raised above the general level.'' '' There are numberless camp grounds on Al&y and Kizil Art too. We call each ayil = camp by the name of the £{ = Chief." " Every place too has its name, but I don't know them. Its four years since I was on Al&y, and people give their camp grounds different names. We caU a place such and such a td^A = hill, or tdsA = rock, or iol = pool, or cul = glen, or *« = stream, or art = valley pass, or tar = straight or gorge, or datodn = hill pass, or corghdn = fort, or cardvml = picket, and so on, and eveiybody knows the place ; it does for three or four tdsh all round or up and down." " No, the Osh Kirghiz are not subjects of AtiLlik Gh£zi. They come over Tink Dawdn every year with the Kapchik of Mddi and roam down to Chddir-tash, and Neza-t&sh, and AktJsh, but they don't pay Zakdt except to the Khan of Elhokand. My father is a subject of At^lik; his camps are in Kirmin Kul and Egizak on the Koksti at foot of Tirik Baw^n ; he keeps a picket on the pass ; I am a jigit = trooper, and have served At^lik four years. I get no pay, only food and clothing for self and horse. Hese arms all belong to Badaulat, and I received them from my Pansad. I belong to the N&ym&n tribe. There are 1,000 houses in the hills from S^righ Kul to Chidir Kol, all N&ym^n. There are others besides as B^rgpa, Mon^, &c. We only pay Zakdt to At^lik, and our Chie& are charged with the protection of the frontier against marauders from the Khokand side. There are only eight of us here in service with Badaulat. He can't keep more because we run away, or get ill and die here. We are constantly employed going backwards and forwards with orders to the frontier outposts." The population of all this Kirghiz division is very variously estimated. By some the number is stated at 80,000 houses, but this figure, it would seem, includes all the camps on both sides the Al&t£gh. Of those who are recognized subjects of the K&shghar State, I don't think the number can exceed 3,000 houses, viz., 800 in K^ksh&land Artosh, 1,600 in the Akt£gh and Kardtdgh valleys, and 600 on the upper waters of the Yirkand and Kar^k^sh rivers. Counting seven for each ac-oe or " white house" — the name of their portable frame work and felt covered tents — ^this wiU give 21,000 souls as the Kirghiz population of the Kishghar State. The Kirghiz occupy the whole of Mogholistan proper or Zungh&r which extends from Ytilduz on the east to T&shkand on the west. Like the Kalmyk they have no cities or towns but migrate from the lower to the higher valleys and plateaux according to the seasons. On tiie north their neighbours are the Kazz^k or Cossack of Isigh Kol and Koba and Ha, on the west the K^pchik or Kipch&k, on the south the Uzbak of Khokand and Turk of EL^hghar^ and on the esiSt the Kakn&k of Yulduz, k ( 60 ) They consist of two main divisions called Tagh&j and Adigina, and are also called Ear£- Kirghiz. The Tagh&j are nearly all Russian subjects. Their principal divisions are Sultan on tiie Cbu and Talas rivers, Bughu on the south of Isigh Kol, Sirighbaghish on the east of Isighkol, Chirik in Kiksh^l and Aks^y, Chongbaghish on Atb&shi and Akti^gh to Tirik Dawin, S^yak on Kar^tagh and on the Ndrin and Jumgh^l rivers, Kochi in K&kshal and Artosh and N^rin. All these are Russian subjects, but some of each^ except the two first, are K&shghar subjects ; as are all the N^yman and Kard Khitay, who extend with some S^yak and Kochi from Akt&gh all round to Kar^k^sh and the Khutan frontier. The Adigina comprise the camps of B^rga, Bakal^ Mun^k^ Saw£y^ Joru^ Josh^ Kokchfla^ &c., and are partly Khokand and partly Russian subjects. They are in Osh^ Andijan^ Marghil^n and the Farghana mountains, and in summer roam Al^y and Kizil Art with the S&jeky Ksiii Khitay, and N&ym&n of K&shghar. Amongst the Adigina are many Elapchik and Eazz^k camps who have separated from their own Chiefs. The wealth of the Kirghiz consists in their horses and cattle. They have numbers of camels and oxen^ and sheep innumerable. They sow wheats barley, and maize here and there on the lower valleys^ but they have no regular fields or gardens. They make excellent felts and carpets, and a 30ft woollen cloth, as well as tapes, and caps, and a variety of domestic clothing and tent gear ; all from the wool of their flocks and herds. They bring their felts and carpets, and cattle and skins of butter, &c.^ to market for sale, and take back cotton cloth, boots^ snuff, tea^ tobacco^ needles^ cauldrons of iron, cotton prints^ and such like^ as silks, furs, &c. The Kirghiz profess Isl&m and are Sunni Musalm^ns, but they are very ignorant of the doctrines of the faith^ and very careless in the observance of its ordiuances. In fact many of them are yet pagans, though different from the Kalmyk. They are said to be much given to drunkenness by a stroug spirit they distil from mare's milk. It is called nasAa and is distilled from ciimis which is fermented butter milk of the mare. What we tasted at K^hghar was a slightly vinous, subacid drink of very agreeable flavour and mildly exhilarating effect in the dose of a pint. It is the national drink of the Kirghiz, and reputed to possess all sorts of wonderful virtues and properties. It is a tonic and aid to digestion, prevents fever^ cures dysentery, retards old age, restores viriliiy, and makes the barren fertile^ besides many other benefits it confers on its consumers. The spirit distilled from it is a colourless fluid apparently the same as alcohol, for very little suffices to produce senseless intoxication. The Kirghiz of Kar^kochun in Lob are noted for the superiority of this spirit turned out of their stills. It is usually made from mare's milk^ but any other or a mixture of milks is also used for the purpose. The Kirghiz have many customs peculiar to themselves^ and treat their women with the greatest confidence and deference. They are very fond of hunting and are robbers by nature. Until the establishment of the Atilik's rule they systematically levied black mail on all caravans passing through their lands^ and habitually plundered unprotected travellers. Their camps are under the government of a Chief or Bt, who settles disputes in consultation with the dcsaedl or " grey beards''='^ elders.'' The chief of a whole tribe is called Sultan, and he is the referee in cases of appeal against the decision of the £i, but as a rule the people are very much their own masters and keep the law in their own hands. They are described as extremely impul- sive and impatient of control, and in cases where an aggrieved party considers himself unjustly treated by his judges it is not an uncommon thing for him to kill himself^ or to tear open his shirt and gash his chest and stomach with a knife, or to snatch up his own child and dash k)ut its brains on the ground, thereby throwing the responsibility of his ruin upon his unjust judges. Their marriage customs and ceremonies are very similar to those of the people of l§£righ Kdl, though they don't intermarry with them at all; but their observance of the marriage ties is from all accounts very lax, and adultery and elopement are a fruitful source of discord. The bride is always purchased from the father at a price varying according to the rank of the parties, but whatever the sum agreed to, it is paid in cattle or clothing and always in nine of each kind. Thus nine horses, and nine sheep, and nine camels, &c., &c. A rich man may give more, but it must be in the same ratio— a multiple of nine, and no fractional quantity — and the reckoning is made by that figure all the way through, as four nines of horses, and four nines ( 61 ) of sheep^ kc., or iweLve nines of horses^ and so on. A poor man may give onlj a nine of sheep bat he cannot give less than that number. Similarly the presents g^yen by the father to the bride must be in the same number or its multiple of each kind^ as nine frocks^ nine mantles^ nine carpets^ &c.^ and the presents made by friends too must be in the same number^ as nine pieces of silk^ nine veils^ nine caps^ &c.^ &c. The origin of the selection of this particular number^ called toc4z, is not known^ but the custom is observed by all the Turk and Tartar tribes of Centad Asia. The language of the Kirghiz is a dialect of the Turki spoken in K&shghar^ but they are mostly an illiterate people^ though their Chiefs have books recording the history of the tribes, and others of poetry. They are fond of music, and there are many travelling minstrels and story tellers, called 6acsi, in the camps. The common names of Kirghiz men are Sikkan, StihLnchi, T&ylak, Cholpang, Mtisi, Atantay, Tuidi, S^ik, Khidir, Silydin, Pokbasar, Yobasar, Sultay, Sadir, Anizar, Tilaka, Kh&n, Tora, &c. And of women, Oanjika, SiLrah, Sholpan&y, Orun, Oruz^gh&cha, Olja, Irancha, Arij&n, Shach&n, Shakar, Toctdghicha, 'Ayim, Bakhtdghd- cha, Tolkun, Z^cha, Muns^gh&cha, Bdrtilush, &c. Pakhjml4k of MuztdgA, — ^This division — ^the last and least of those of K&shghar — ^belongs to the district of Kokydr in the jurisdiction of Y&rkand, and comprises the narrow glens and defiles of the head waters of the Tizn&f and Zarafshdn, or Y&rkand river on the northern slopes of Muzt&gh. It consists of two principal divisions, viz., Khalistin which extends from Topa Daw&n to Yangi Daw&n and contains the upper course of the Tiznilf river, and ShanshiS, with its sub-divisions of Apat Bulong, M&mok, and Molong Bulong, on the upper course of the Y&rkand river up to the glaciers of Tor&ghil which separate it from the Bilti country to the south. ( It is a very poor and inhospitable country, very little known even to the people of Ydrkand, but remarkable as the retreat of a most interesting and purely Aryan people who only require to be put into coat and trowsers to pass, so far as outward appearance goes, for the fairest Englishman. On the return journey of the embassy, we marched through the length of Khalistdn, and had the opportunity of meeting some of these people, and Captain Chapman took a photograph of two of them who were employed in our camp. Their tall figures, fair skins, light eyes, and sandy whiskers and hair, coupled with their pronoimced Caucasian features, at once marked them as of an entirely different race to any of the many our journey had brought us in contact with. Unfortunately, the temerity of these people had carried their camps and families into the recesses of the glens and mountain hollows far out of the line of our march, and we were consequently deprived of the opportunity of learning much about them by personal observation. By the people of Y&rkand they are called Pdpti, but to me they called themselves Pakhpi and their countiy Pakhpuluk — a Turki adjectival form signifying " belonging to the PakhpA*' — and corresponding to the noun and adjective forms of Briton and British respectively. They profess Isldm — the Shia doctrine — and speak the Turki of Ydrkand, but in a corrupt and not easily intelligible form even to natives of that city. They denied having any other language of their own, and their undisguised fear led them to conceal all information regarding them- selves, though they were by no means so reticent in repljdng to questions regarding their Kunjud neighbours on the south side of the mountain. The names of the camp grounds in their country are ^ Turki, but those of the subdivisons of the country itself, as will be seen from the examples above given, are not so, though to what language they may be referred I have no means of ascertaining. The two Bulong, M&mok, Aghil, Elhalist&n, &c., in their distinct etymology resemble the unintelligible names of localities peculiar to the adjoining hill tract designated by the Turki •appellation S&righ Kul or Tdshkorgh&n, such as W^hi, Maryang, Kesarov, &c., and denote a separate origin from the several different aricy cudue, ydr, tdsA, corgAdn, 4ld{y adldij &c., of the later Turk possessors, so common on the plain, and on the beaten tracks of their goings and comings. Yet they appear not to have anjrthing in common, for these PakhptiMk assured us that the languages of Kunjud, Sirigh Ktil, and Wakhiin were unintelligible to them. ( 62 ) They are said to namber altogether 2^000 houses, which at seven for each will give their total population at 14,000 souls. They are a very poor people, and seldom quit the recesses of their hills. They have several little villages to which they retire for shelter in winter, but during summer they spread in small camps amongst the mountains with their small flocks of sheep and cattle, and in favouring spots grow crops of barley and wheat. Their arms are the matchlock and sword, and their clothing a course woollen material made from the fleece of their sheep. Thiey seem to have been hnnted by all their neighbours, and were at perpetual war with the Chinese. But under the strong rule of the Amir they enjoy, if not prosperity, at least peace and immunity from the slave hunting raids of their Eunjud enemies. Until six or eight years ago they were annually harrassed by robber bands from Kunjud who drove off their cattle and carried away their people as slaves for the markets of Bukhara and Yirkand. Their Chief village in Ehalist&n is said to be Chilkchu, 200 houses, at two days' journey west from Chighligh camp ground on the Tizn&f river at the foot of Topa Dawan. Population. — From the data furnished in the preceding description the population of the Ei^shgluur State may be tabulated and summed thus :— Khutan ••• ... 18,600 houses ... ... 129,600 souIb. Y4rkand • • . • * . 32,000 $9 ... ... 224,000 »» Tangi Hissir . • • • • • 8,000 >l ... ... 66,000 »» E&sWhar UshTml&Q ... ... 16,000 »» ... ... 112,000 99 • • . ... 2,000 $9 ... ... 14,000 99 Akfid... ■ • • ... 12,000 f$ • a* ... 84,000 99 Kiich& ... ... 6,000 ft . • ■ ... 42,000 99 Ktirla • * . 1. . 2,000 9f ... ... 14,000 99 Kar&shahr • • • 1. • 8,000 >9 ... ... 66.000 99 Tnrflbi ... ... 18,000 99 ... ... 126,000 99 Lob ... ... .«. 10,000 W • • . .. • 70,000 99 Mar&ib&sM ... •.« 6,000 »» ... ... 36,000 99 S&righ Kdl ... ... 2,600 » ... • . 1 17,600 99 Kirghiz PaUipt^ltilr ... •** 3,000 >9 • . • ... 21,000 99 . •• .• • 2,000 9» ... ... 14,000 99 Total • .• 146,000 >» ... ... 1,016,000 99 Such are the results of a careful enquiry into the population of the several divisions of the country, and the numbers g^ven are mostiy those represented to be the revenue reckonings of the Chinese rulers. My personal observation, however, leads me to the belief that this one million and fifteen thousand is very considerably above the actual numbers which a proper census would disclose as the true population of the country in the possession of the Amir as defined in the preceding pages, and I have been enabled to form this estimate for the whole country from experience of its western divisions. Two circumstances conspire to mislead the mere traveller in his calculations. One is the sudden transition from a region of solitude and desolation to another of society and habitation ; and the other is the striking contrast between the desert wastes around and the flourishing settlements that spread far and wide between them. Thus the traveller approaching the country from the south has to cross a vast uninhabited region utterly devoid of trees and verdure ; and after ten or twelve days of such desolation he suddenly plunges into a flourishing settlement extending oyer as many miles along a river course, and thickly planted with trees in all its extent. His first impression is one of dense population and plenty, but a closer investigation shows him that abundance of trees does not necessarily prove numbers of population ; and he discovers that the houses are widely scattered either as single homesteads or in clusters of two or three together ; and if he counts them, he will find that within a radius of a couple of miles all round hardly fifty tenements visible. He quits this settlement on his onward journey and, whichever way he goes, he traverses a wide waste of blank desert to tiie next which, may be, is a market town and entered on market day. He here finds a closely packed and busy crowd blocking the streets with their numbers ; and extricating himself from their midst he goes his ( 63 ) way impressed by the density and aetiyity of the population. But if he halt here^ he will find the illusion dispelled. The morrow instead of a struggling and jostUng crowd will show him lonesome streets with long rows of silent forges^ empty cook shops, deserted grocers' stalls^ and the tenantless sheds of the shoe-maker^ hatter^ and draper ; and if he enquires^ he will learn that the multitude of yesterday is dispersed far and wide over this and the adjoining settlements till next week^s market day brings them together again. I have no data on which to base an approximate estimate of the area of land under cultiva- tion in each division ; but considering the limited water supply and the barren nature of the soil, and comparing the spreads of cultivation with those of other countries where the population is known, it does not appear to me that the soil is capable of feeding the alleged population in the western divisions of the country which I have seen, particularly if it is borne in mind that they are entirely self supporting and receive no extraneous supplies of breadstufis and similar food. It is for these reasons that I am disposed to estimate the actual normal population at a lower figure than that produced by the reckoning in the time of the Chinese as above given ; and inde- pendent of the great diminution that is said to have occurred by the war losses and massacres attending the revolution that overthrew their rule^ and transferred the possession of the country to other hands. Climate and seasons, — The preceding description of the natural and political divisions of the country will have prepared us for a diversity in the character of its climate and seasons corresponding with the physical peculiarities of the several divisions themselves. And though I can only speak from personal knowledge of what prevails in the western districts, there are some special characteristics which by common consent are applicable to the whole region. These I may here briefly notice before proceeding to detail the meteorological observations recorded during our stay in the country. The chief and most notable peculiarities in the climate of K&hgharia are the extreme dryness of its atmosphere at all tinies, the trifling amount of its rain fall, and the more or less dense haze which nearly always obscures the air ; the periodical winds which sweep its surface^ the intensity of the sun's rays^ and^ finally, the very gpreat range of temperature between summer and winter. The first is the result of the vast expanse of arid sandy desert which forms so large a portion of not only this region itself but of the Central Asian Continent both on its east and on its west, and is intensified by the second; for what rain does fall is caught by the mountain ranges bounding the coimtry on three sides (and even then mostly in the form of snow)^ and rarely reaches the plain country in any appreciable quantity; whilst the third would seem to be the effect of both the other causes combined; the impalpable dust of the desert, unweighted by a trace of moisture, floating up into an atmosphere equally void of its presence and there obscuring its transparency till the general haze be dissolved, not by wind alone, for that only intensifies it, but by moisture either in the form of cloud or rain or snow. These atmospheric peculiarities characterize the climate of Kishghar in greater or less development and with more or less persistence in all its extent and during all seasons. The remaining three characteristic peculiarities of the climate are more of a seasonal nature, and prevail in their proper periods with greater or less intensity according to the deter- mining influences of locality. The winds on the plain blow only in the spring and autumn montl^, and then persistently, with diurnal lulls only, from the north or north-west as a rule ; and for the rest of the year the atmosphere may be considered as still. For though whirlwinds and eddies do circle over the desert wastes during the spring and summer months as they do over the plains in India, the spheres of action of the several currents are very limited and rarely produce any extensive or general disturbance of the atmosphere beyond their own little isolated tracts. In the eastern borders of the desert and on Oobi itself, however, these whirlwinds are described as assuming vast proportions and ragpbag over wide tracts with overwhelming violence; but they are not known in this form in the western portions of the plain. As on the plains so on the mountains, the spring and autumn months are those in which i^;ular winds do most prevail. According to native reports those on Alitigh are mostly I ( 64 ) from the north or north-west; those on the P^mir steppes are mostly from the west; and those on the Kardkoram and Kuenlun are mostly from the south and south-east. These may be taken as the main directions whence the winds blow in each region respectively, but their currents must be diverted by every obstructing ridge and conducting defile. This is well exemplified on the passes of the Kar&koram and Tibet range, and at each camp ground may be seen stone walls, raised as a prot^tion to the traveller from the keen blasts of the prevailing winds ; but in no two of them will they be found in the same general direction, except on the wide table- lands ; and there the general turn of the curved walls to the north and west corroborates the popular report as to the prevalence of w inds from the opposite directions. The general absence of wind in the summer and winter seasons on the plain is a condition favourable to the country as a habitable region. For otherwise the perpetual clouds of dust and sand in the one season would materially interfere with the operations of agriculture and the daily pursuits of life ; whilst the intensified cold in the other would prove inimical to all forms of life under the existing circumstances. The intensity of the sun's rays on the plains of K^shghar is a notable feature of its climate and a phenomenon that requires explanation, because its effects upon the sensibility of man are out of all proportion more perceptible than on that of mercury. The highest temperature recorded during our stay in the country from 1st November to 24th May was 140°F. by a maximum thermometer placed in the direct rays of the sun, yet the exhaustion produced in man by exposure to a sun which indicated considerably less than that degree by the thermome- ter, I observed was much greater than anything I had ever noticed in India. None of our camp followers could walk a march even in an early sun, and our cattle exhibited more distress tiian is usual in India. The natives of the country, too, are equally prone to its effects, and cannot endure toil in the sun. It was a subject of common remark amongst us that in all our marches we rarely met a traveller on foot and rarer still, if ever, saw one carrying a load. Everybody in the country rides, either on horse, camel, ox, or ass, or he travels by cart. Judg- ing from my personal experience I am disposed to attribute this inordinate action of a by no means tropical sun to the combined effects of a very dry atmosphere and refraction of caloric with blinding glare from an arid soil of salines and sand. Not less notable than this action of the sun's rays is the wide range of the atmospheric temperature in the circle of the seasons. July is said to be the hottest month of the year by the natives. I have no data whereby to judge of its temperature. From the observations recorded by Dr. Geo. Henderson, during his visit to Yarkand with Mr. Forsyth in 1870, the temperature of the air on the plain country towards the close of August may be taken at 79®F. In May, according to my own observations, the maximum temperature in the shade was recorded at 97^F. on the 19th of the month at Yakshamba Bazar, two marches to the south of Yarkand city. The minimum temperature of the air was recorded at 20°F. below zero on the 19th February at Tigarmiti n^ur the Sughtin valley at the foot of the mountains north of Artosh. These may be taken as the extremes of heat and cold in the course of the year, but are no criterion for the diurnal alternations, which as a rule are very equable ; whilst at the same time the transition from one season to the next is a gradual process, singularly free from the sudden and great variations of temperature that characterise the climate of some parts of the Punjab. This will be seen by an examination of the meteorological records appended to this report. The seasons in the plain country are distinguishable into four of equal duration, but in the mountain regions there are only two seasons — a summer and a winter — ^for the spring, summer, and autumn in those elevated tracts run rapidly together, and may be considered as lasting only from the beginning of June to the end of September. The other eight months are winter, of gpreater or less rigour according to altitude, during which frosts prevail and vegetation is dormant. The winter or cisA extends over the months of December, Januaiy, and February. It is a oold^ still season, with a more or less constantly overcast sky, and an atmosphere rarely disturbed ( 65 ) by winds; whilst the humidity of the air, notwithstanding the continued frosts,, is greater than at any other period of the year, as will be seen by the meteorological records above referred to. The climatic elements of this season are represented in the following abridged table of meteorological observations recorded at Kdshghar : — Thermometer, Maximum „ Minimum Days of cloud wind f» » Bnow December. January, February, +60°F. +40° -1-49° — 3° — 4° — 6° 27 29 28 2 W., 2 K 1 N., 1 E. 3 N. E., 2 N. 0 0 3 These observations were taken in a small court-yard in which were two occupied kkargah tents, and about which were our dwellings and stables. The temperature on the open plain outside was considerably less than the minima above recorded, and on the 19th February a temperature of 20° below zero was observed at Tigarmiti north of Artosh by Captain H. Trotter of the Royal Engineers. The spring or arta-ydz gradually emerges from winter and towards its close suddenly lapses into summer. It extends over March, April, and May, and is characterised by greater atmos- pheric changes than either of the other seasons. March is a frosty, cloud-cast month with occasional clear days towards its close. Vegetation shows no signs of activity till the middle of this month, when the willow by several days precedence begins to unfold its leaf buds, and wave in the breezes which now dispel the clouds of winter, and make way for the haze which gradually, during the next month, takes possession of the air, and by the end of the season completely obscures the hills and distant prospect around. The climate of this season in the ' western portion of the plain is represented in the annexed table of recorded observations :— - Thermometer, Maximum ,, . Minimum „ Sun's rays Days of cloud ... wind ... rain and snow March, . 79° . 16° . 122° 20 20 N. W., 6S. E. 22 N. W.f2S. W. 16 N. W., 6 S. B. . 3S., 2B. 0 0 April, May, 88° 96° 31° 40° 140° 135° 26 Haze. 24 Haze. The summer or ydz extends over the months of June, July, and August. I have no data for the illustration of the characters of this season. It is the period in which agricultural operations are matured, and is described as hot and sultry even in the settlements, where the abundant growth of trees and numerous running streams, by their grateful shade and refresh- ing moisture, considerably mitigate its scorching heats, which are only experienced in their intensity by the traveller across the arid deserts around. Whirlwinds and circular currents now and again career across the plain in fitful eddies, but there are no rain storms, though dust or sand storms with thunder and electric disturbance do occasionally occur. They clear the atmos- phere, and are succeeded by a brief lull, and occasionally by a slight rain shower, before the sun resumes its power, much as in Northern India. The autumn or k4z like the winter is a more or less still season ushered in with north- western breezes which disperse the summer haze, and correct the aridity of its air by the diffusion of cloud moisture, till gradually the sky becomes overcast as in winter. It is reckoned the most healthy season of the year and that in which the sky is most uniformly blue and clear, though the diurnal range of temperature ds very considerable. Frosts set in early and the latter half of the season is little distinguishable from winter. It comprises the months of Sep- tember, October, and November. The meteorology of the last month is the only one for which I have recorded observations on the plain country, and they may be thus abridged : — November. Thermometer, Maximum 68^; Minimum 13^. Days of doud, 16; of wind, 3 N. W., and of raiuj 0, ( 66 ) The observations above recorded^ it should be borne in mind^ were made in the midst of habitation and population, and the indications of temperature have no doubt been considerablj affected by the influence of surrounding conditions. Thus the recorded heat of summer, in the thickly planted and freely watered settlements, may be fairly presumed to be less than it is in reality on the bare, arid, sandy wastes around. And similarly the degrees of frost recorded in the former situations may be considered to be considerably less thtua what prevails on the open plains and desert tracts outside. The long duration and intensity of the season of frost is indicated by the furs developed by the wild animals, and in a lesser degree by the domestic, as well as by the ordinary clothing of the inhabitants. This subject will be noticed hereafter, but it may be here stated that dl the wild animals during winter are protected by a soft warm coat of woolly down growing next the skin at the roots of the coarser fur, and that man during the same seasons envelopes his body in thick felts, or silks, or furs. Salubrity, — The influence of climate upon the health of the inhabitants is in all countries altered and varied in a greater or less degree by the operations of a multitude of diverse agencies associated with the conditions and employments of the people; and, consequently, without long continued and careful study of all the circumstances of each particular case it is impossible to say what is solely the result of climatic agency and what the result of mode of life; or where one begins and the other ends, or how the one cause re-acts upon the other, and to what exent the results are attributable to each, or either, or both, combined with some local peculiarity of soU, or water, or air. During our stay in the country we had many opportunities of judging of the prevalent diseases amongst the people, and these were extended by the establishment of a charitable dispensary in connection with the Embassy. Subjoined is a classified list of the numbers of each disease treated in the dispensary. It speaks for itself, and needs no special analysis in this placCj beyond a few general remarks on its more characteristic indicatipns, as exponents of the health state in western K^shghar during its most rigorous season of cold — a season which with the proceeding months of autumn is considered the most healthy portion of the year. The rarity of febrile diseases is very notable, and so far as I could ascertain the people* of Kishghar (m^ remarks only apply l7the western districts) enjoy an uncommon Suniiy from this class of diseases. The eruptive fevers of childhood are certainly known, but rarely prevail as epidemics, ^d small-pox is deprived of much of its destructive violence, owing to the free exposure to air and the isolation of the sick. The people have a greater dread of this disease than any other, and on its appearance amongst them immediately vacate the house or camp, leaving the afflicted vdth a single attendant, and do not return till forty days have elapsed. Malarious fevers it would appear are hardly known, though a form of typhoid or enteric fever is said to prevail in the early spring and winter seasons. Cholera is unknown in the country, but a fatal epidemic, which by some is described as that disease, and by others as a malignant form of typhoid, is said to have visited Khutan in 1872 as an importation from Kashmir. It did not spread beyond the city, and since its cessation has not again re-appeared. The scattered tenements of a settlement are usually so isolated by a surrounding of fields and orchards and plantations that the spread of infectious diseases from one to the other is reduced to a minimum, whilst the separation of each settlement from the next by an intervening strip of arid desert secures it an almost complete immunity from invasion by disease from its neighbour. The frequency of diseases of the eye, and particularly of the internal humours, is very remarkable, and is mostly attributable to the combined effects of climate and soil. The extreme dryness of the atmosphere, which in April shows a difference of 26 degrees between the indica- tions of the wet and dry bulbs of the hygprometer, coupled with the intense glare of the sun from a white sandy saline soil, and the particles of dust constantly set afloat in the air, must be a proliflc source of discomfort, and a severe trial of the powers of so delicate an organ. Another set of .diseases whose origin is due to effects of climate are those of the respiratory system, and the frequency of their prevalence in a chronic form is a fair index of the severity of the winter season. With this category too may be included the muscular forms of rheumatism. ( 67 ) More notable than any of the above^ as mueb on account of its extraordimaiy prevalence ae on account of its limitation to certain localities is the disease called goitre or bronchocele. It is met with in all the cojmtry from Kishghar to Khutan^ but attains its maximum of frequency and development at Yirlcand itself. Here it is the exception to escape this hideous deformity and most inconvenient disease. It is seen in all forms and stages of growth^ and in aU classes and ages from the teething infant to the toothless grey beard^ and does not appear materially to shorten life. In examining promiscuous groups of tiie people about our Besidency and in attendance at the dispensary, I^ on different occasions counted 7 out of 10^ 11 out of IS, 5 out of Ty S out of 12, 9 out of 16, and on one occasion an entire group of 7 goitrous subjects. Their numbers in the bazar crowds is surprising and the enormous develop- ment and deformity in some cases are as astonishing as they are repulsive. I did not see a single case of cretinism, though I was told that idiotcy was not uncommon amongst children in whom the disease attained a rapid development. The people call goitre btkdc or o4ghdc and attribute it to the water they drink. The city, where the disease is far more common than in the rural districts or hills, is supplied with water by canals from the Zara&han or Y^rkand River, which takes its rise, and in its upper course flows, amongst mountains of micaceous schist and slate shales. On the plain, too, it flows over a sandy soil largely mixed with mica, as do the canals drawn from it. These last are conducted into the city and there from time to time replenish a number of uncovered tanks or reservoirs sunk in the loose soil of the ground for the supply of the citizens. Their water is more or less stagnant and full of conf ervoB, and all sorts of impurities derived from the bordering roadways. Some of the people more than usually affected by this disease applied at the dispensary for relief, but the great majority hardly considered it a disease, and none but children in whom the growth was incipient were treated with any hope of benefit. Another class of diseases, owing their origin to the habits of the people, as distinct from the effects of climate, deserves a brief notice, inasmuch as they affoid a pretty correct idea of the state of morals, domestic habits and vicious practices amongst the people. Venereal affec- tions though not uncommon are still far less frequent than the known lax morality and pro- miscuous intercourse of the sexes would lead one to expect, unless indeed such cases have not so freely shown as others free from any stigma of reproach have done. But such as were seen included some of the most repulsive and destructive forms of secondary syphilis, aggravated apparently by abuse of mercurial remedies. The frequency of skin diseases may be recognized as an exponent of the dirty habits of the people, and their little habitude to ablution. But the last of the more prevalent afflictions we need here notice is the dyspepsia produced by the abuse of opium and Indian hemp. Amongst the city people everywhere it is met in a very aggravated form too frequently, and marks very surely the destructive effects of those poisons. The haggard, hungry, dolorous and discon- tented looks of these wretched victims of their passion tell but too truly the loss of all pleasure in life to them, and speak for the necessity of their continuance in the vice to eke out to its bitter end the short span of aimless existence left for them. Record of sici, ouUdoor and in-door patients, treated at the Dispensary of the Kdshghar EmAassy from the \st November 1873, at Sdnju, to the %^th May 1874, at Kokyar. General diseases. Agnes ... 20 Tnflnenza . . 16 Mmnps 13 Erysipelas 5 Bheumatism 83 Lumbago 23 Gout 7 Syphilis, Primary ... 16 „ SeconcUuy... 68 Scrofula 16 Phthisis, Pulmonary 6 ^y8pep8ia • •• ■ • • 378 Oastrodynia • • • •• • 21 Pyrosis • • • ■ • ■ 18 Dysenteiy • • • • •• 33 Diarrhoea • • • • • « 5 CoHc • • 1 ■ • • 28 Hernia, Inj^uinal • • « • • • 17 Hosmorrhoids • • * • • • 63 Prolapsus Ani • • • ■ • • 12 Condyloma Ani Fistula Ani • • • • • • • • * • • • 14 3 Hepatitis • • • • • • 6 Jaundice • • • • •• 2 Splenitis • • • • • ■ 7 Ajcites • •■ **• 5 454 60 82 187 475 826 Urmarjf sjfttem. Calculus YesioQB ••• 6 QonorrhoBa ••• 58 Stnctura uiethrcB ... ... 3 Oenerative eyetem. Hydrocele ... 2 Orchitis ... 9 Spermatorrhcea ... 37 Ovarian dropsy • . ■ 3 Amenorrhcea ... 12 Dieeaeei of Bonee. Periostitis ..t 13 Necrosis ... 6 Synovitis ... ... 4 Cfutaneoui ayetem. / Pityriasis capitis ... ••• 25 Psoriasis ... 7 Herpes ... 11 Eczema ... 15 Acne ••• ..* 6 Frostbite ... 11 Boil ... 9 Carbuncle ... 3 Ulcer •*• 206 Whitlow ... 13 Eingworm ... ••* 5 Itch or scabies ••1 173 Fatty tumor •.. 4 Fibrous ,| ... 2 Sebaceous,, .•* 11 Debility, general* From opium smoking ».. 19 n Indian hemp smoking ... 25 Inteatinal worma. Ascarides ... 5 Tape- worm ... 7 Injuriea. Fracture of skun ... ... 1 n ft humerus ... 2 „ » pateUa .«. 1 n H tibia and fibula ... 2 Dislocation of shoulder ... 2 „ „ elbow *.• 1 „ „ wrist ... 1 Incised wound ... 5 Gunshot wound ... 3 Surgical qperaiiona. Entropium, excision / ••• 2 Cataract, extraction ... 9 Cancer, excision ... 8 Polypus Nasi, extraction Enlaxged tonsils, excision ... 5 ... 2 Dislocation shoulder, reduction ... 1 Tumors, excision ... ... 3 67 63 23 501 44 12 18 ( 69 ) BoUet, ezoiBioii ... ... il Calciiliu yedcoB, lithotomy .., 3 Teeth, extraction ... ... 34 Uloer sums, incision ... 8 71 Harelip ^ ... ... 6 Hypoepadia of nzethia and fia- aore of scrotom ... ... 1 6 The above table shows the numbers of sick of each disease who applied for medical aid at the Embassy Dispensary from the day of entering the settled country at S&njd^ and during our stay at YiLrkand, Yangi Hissiir^ and Kishghari up to our arrival at Koky^r, and departure thence for India. Whilst it testifies to the eagerness with which European medical aid is sought by the people of E&shghar, it may also be ti^en as a fair exponent of the diseases from which they suffer. Natural productions.-^Theae may be very briefly noticed here under the heads of Animal^ y^table^ and Mineral. Animal. — E&shgharia, in its wide expanse of desert plain^ and its long ranges of elevated mountain plateaux^ is the native home of the pnmsBval parent stocks of some of man's most useful domestic animals on the Asiatic Continent. Here are found on the soft saline deserts, where no other foot can tread^ the double-humped wild camel of Tartary, the ydwatuga of the natives. It is described as a small animal but little larger than a horse^ and with neat slim built limbs : particulars in* which it differs little from its domestic congener here. I was sur- prised at the diminutive size^ and clean formed limbs of many of the camels we saw in the Kii^hiz camps (so different from the tall ungainly brutes one is familiar with in India), and noticed that their cry is as different as their form from that of the Indian variety of the species. The wild animal, according to the concurrent testimony of independent witnesses and autho- rities, is hunted in the vicmity of Lob and Turfin for tibe sake of its wool. The wild horse or culdn breeds in the hollows of the sandy ridges bordering the desert, and in the valleys of the great mountain ranges bounding it; and in the latter situations not unfrequently shares the pasture with the Kirghiz herds of its domesticated kindred species. The wild ox or cit&B (bos grunniens) is only found at the highest elevations under the snow line, and is a huge animal with long shaggv hair. The domestic animal in the possession of the Kirghiz of Mdzt&gh and Sirigh Kul is a much smaller brute, and nearly as vicious and intractable as his untamed brother. The hybrid between the wild male and the domestic cow, however, is a highly valued, most useful, and productive creature with all the virtues of the domestic breed improved by the stamina of the wild blood. The wild cutds is occasionaUy hunted, but with great caution owing to its ferocity and courage when brought to bay. The Ovis Ammon or rdos is said only to be found on the Tibet border about the T&ghdumbdsh and Muztdgh, and the Ovis PoU or ghilja on all the Vimii steppes and the plateaux of AUtigh. S&righ Kul seems to be the limit between them, the one not going further north, and the other not coming further south. But the Ibex or iakka has no sucn limitation, and is found on AUtilgh to the north as on the BJlti mountains to the south. The stag or bugM male, and mardl female, haunts the forest borders along the river courses on the mid plain, and is hunted for its antlers, which are an article of commerce with China. The deer or antelope, called Myii, herds in the lower valleys and on the sand hills bordering the desert ; in the former localities it often gets mixed up with the flocks of the Kirghiz shepherds. There is another antelope, called j^duy which is only found on the higher plat^ux of tiie Elar&koram and Aliy, and is usually seen in couples or singly. It is probably tiie Lyre homed antelope of Tibet. The hare, called tdoshcdn by Kishgharis and cuydn hj Andijinis, is common in the brushwood of the lower valleys, and in the pasture wastes bordering the settlements on the plain. The other wild animals are the Hgerssyolbdrs, the panther =snk)^, the Ijnx^sulAun, the wolf=&or^, thefox=^f{JK, and a similar animal called Sarigh Oiyurugh or '^ yellow-tail.^' These are with the wild ^\g=itong4z all found on the plain countiy, and, excepting the first, in winter all develop a thick coat of fur; for the sake of which, excepting i^ last, th^ are \ ( 70 ) hunted. We saw some specimens of the wild pig in the thickets on the Fyzahad Biver^ beyond Kol Taylak near Artosh^ in the month of Februaiy^ and found they were coated with a thick layer of soft crispy wool under the long bristles of their ordinary covering. Besides the above, in the hills are found the bear = aril, and the marmot =^^t!lr* Amongst birds, those deserving mention either on account of their utility or frequency, are the following, viz., the 8WB,n=coddy in Lob, the goooe^ cdz, the Brahmani duck of India, called an^ety and wild duck=t!&r^a^, in vast numbers and variety on the pools and marshes in all parts of the country. These, with the crane, heron, peewit, snippets of sorts, and other water birds, all breed here in the summer, and mostly go across the mountains to India on the approach of winter. On our passage across the Kar^koram range in October we found several stragglers of these birds frozen to death in the migration ; and at Akt^gh our lamented comrade, the late Dr. F. Stoliczka, rescued a benumbed landrail from immolating itself in our camp fire into which it was struggling its way from the cold shelter of a neighbouring rock, and preserved it instead to adorn the shelves of the Calcutta Museum. At this place, too, I picked up a frozen snipe whose eyes stared from their sockets like bright round pearls — ^by the congelation of their humours. The hooded crow^dlacdr^Aa, the rook^ cardcdr^ia, the jsuckda,w=zdfficka, the magpie = saghizghdn, the s^^r\\Txg^cardc^hcachy the doye=paMtaiy the blue figeon=ct>iiiil, the homed owl=yapalai, the BW331ow=ialasfAacA, the spBirow =c4chcdcA, together with the blackbird, thrush, lark, robin, wren, and a variety of wagtails and finches are common about the settlements, as are their enemies the kestral, harrier, and sparrow hawk. In the mountains are found the TQ,yen= eAzgitln, and the chough, the black eagle = edracosAy and the golden eagle =dt!lr^M^. This last is taken from the nest, and trained, for purposes of hunting, to stnke the stag, deer, pig, and wolf, and even the bear. Several varieties of the hawk species are trapped and trained for sport; their native names are carchaghay^islcoxL (peregrine), lachin, akuncar, turumtiy tulak, italgha, and others. Other characteristic birc^ of the country are the pheasant =(;tV^Aatt^2, partridge (fran- colin)=^i^/»£, quail=d(?^na, podoces=ci!m saghazacy snow pheasant =?«^r, and the florican bustard or obarah=^t^^AJarra; but of this last we saw no specimens. The buzzard is common about the settlements, but I saw no vulture in all the country. The domestic animals are the ox, horse, sheep, and goat, the ass, the dog, the cat, and the rabbit ; fowls, ducks, and pigeons are also kept ; and the camel, grunting ox or ydk, and the hybrid cow are found mostly amongst the Kirghiz and Kalm^, and in the southern settlements of the country, where only the mule is abundant ; whilst the dog and the cat are man's com- panions everywhere. Oxen are not very plentiful, and judging from the droves we saw, the breed is of inferior size and productive quality ; probably the consequences of a long winter confinement, and scanty pasture at all times. The best milch kine are said to yield from six to nine quarts of milk daily. In the agricultural districts bullocks are used in the plough and as beasts of burthen. And everywhere they supply the butcher's stall with very fair beef. The horse is raised in great numbers all over the country, and is of a breed peculiar to the country, though very much resembling the ydiu of A%banistan. Its chief points are short or m^um height, round barrel and deep chest, with full quarters and thick limbs. It is inured to carry heavy loads at a peculiar jog amble of about five miles an hour, and is said to be very enduring if not urged beyond its natural pace. This is the common animal in the possession of nearly every family in the country. It is called topicAdc or ^' roadster," in dis- tinction to the arghumdo or ^^ thorough bred," which is either of Andijdn or Turkman breed, and is only used by the wealthy or by the Chiefs. Oenerically all horses are called dt, but they have distinguishing names according to colour ; thus the white horse is called bdz, the chestnut t4rukj the bay ciildn, the roan chokur, the dun jard, the piebald dla, the brown kok^ the grey eAl, and the iron grey cardboz. The turui or '^chestnut" is supposed to be the most common and hardy of all« The horse is here used in the plough and in harness as freely as under the saddle and pack, and horseflesh is an article of daily consumption amongst all classes. Moles are not y- L i3«— Street Hawkers, Yarkund. J ih. 14.-- Street Hawkers, Yarkund. « t L.' *. / V *■ . I > / ••ly/ •a. '*, / / .J \ (71) often met with except in the Ehutan division, where, it is said, they are numerous. Asses of a diminutive breed abound everywhere, and in the cities are found in surprising numbers^ and perform the work which elsewhere is done by porters. The sheepr is raised here in immense numbers, and is of a very superior breed, both as r^fards flesh and fleece. It is of the dumba or '^ fat-tailed '^ variety, and is a large animal, standing higher and longer than its English fellow. It is pastured with the goat in large flocks in the valleys all along the foot of the hills, and in winter both throw up a thick coat of soft downy wool under the longer fleece and hair respectively. This fine wool is woven by the Kirghiz into a variety of warm fabrics for home wear, and much of it is exported to Kashmir for the use of the shawl weavers there. The dog is found here under a variety of forms. There is the sheep dog and watch dog of the Kirghiz — a wolfish, savage animal, and a very efficient protector against surprise by man or beast. The pariah, as in other cities of the East, has his home in the streets ; by day he hangs about the butchers' stalls, and at night reposes on the dungheaps ; and such of them as have owners, testify their acknowledgments of favours conferred by howling dismally all night from the housetops. The spaniel and terrier and curs of sorts, strangely like their brethren about any European barrack in India, now and again attract attention like strangers on the scene. The camel, with the horse and sheep, constitutes the wealth of the Kirghiz. They are not so numerous as one might be led to imagine, partly owing to the more general use of the horse as the transporter of merchandise, and partly to the fact of their being only reared by the Earghiz and Kalm&k. They are all of the double-humped variety, and some of them are verv handsome creatures gprandly arrayed in bushy shags of deep soft wool^ who step a proud lei- surely pace fully conscious of the imposing dignity of their form and bearing. The grunting ox and the hybrid cattle are mostly, if not altogether, limited to the south- em borders of the country, and flourish best in the lower valleys of the Muzt&gh and Kari- koram ranges. We saw none of them on the plain beyond Sanju. They are common in S&righ Kul and Wakh&n and with the Kirghiz of King Kul and Ch^hiklik. Finally in the time of the Chinese, there was the domestic pig^ but with the reign of Isl&m^ he has disap- peared from the scene entirely. Regarding the fishes of K^shghar I have little information. Most of the lesser streams, and all the main rivers are stocked with different kinds. In Lob fish form the main diet of the people, and to a limited extent this form of food is consumed in the principal cities. But there are no fisheries for a regular supply of fish to the market. Some were occasionally brought for our table, and they were of two different species. One of which was the barbel, weighing up to eighteen or twenty pounds or more. The following extracts from Burnes serve to preface a few short notes on the different kinds of horses met with in Eastern Turkestan : — Horses, — Burnes^ Volume llLy Chapter IV, — *' The horse attains a noble perfection in Turkestan and the countries north of Hindu Koosh. The climate is favorable to its constitu- tioD, and the inhabitants exhibit the most patient solicitude in its breeding and food ; so that its best qualities are developed. The Toorkman horse is a large and bony anima^ more remarkable for strength and bottom than symmetry and beauty. Its crest is nobly erect, but the length of body detracts from its appearance in the eye of a European ; nor is its head so amall, or its coat so sleek as the brood of Arabia. This want of ornament is amply compensated by its more substantial virtues, and its otility is its beauty. ***** " The peculiar manner in which a Toorkman rears his horse arrests attention, and will per- haps account for its stamina and superiority ; since education, whether of the beast or the man, leaves the most permanent impreseion. The diet is of the simplest kind and entirely, free from the spices and sugars, the 32 and 42 mussalahs (condiments) of the Indians. Grass is given at stated periods of the forenoon, evening, and midnight ; and after feeding on it for an hoar, the horse is reined up and never permitted to nibble and eat as in Europe. Dry food is preferred at all times, and if green barley and jerwarree are given in its stead, the animal then receives no grain. At other times a horse has from 8 to 9ffis of barley once a day. Clover n • 1 \ ( 72 ) HDcL artificial grasses are cnltivated in Bokhara and on the banks of the Oxas ; and, when procurable, always used in a dry state. The stalk o£ the jerwarree, which is as thick as a walking stick, and contains much saccharine juice, is a more favorite food. The long intervals between the times of baiting inures these horses to great privations ; the supply of water allowed is also most scanty. Before a Toorkman undertakes a foray or chupao, he trains, or, to use his own words, *' cools his horse/' with as much patience and care as the most experienced jockey of the tarf , and the animal is sweated down with a nicety which is perhaps unknown to these characters. After lon^ abstinence from food, the horse is smartly exercised and then led to water. If he drinks freely, it is a sign that his fat has not been sufficiently brought down, and he is starved and galloped about till he gives this required and indispensable prool A Toorkman waters his horse when heated, and then scampers about with speed to mix the water and raise it to the temperature of the animals body. Under this treatment the flesh of their horses becomes firm, and their bottom is incredible; I have had authentic accounts of their performing a journey of 600 miles in seven and even six days. Speed is at all times looked on as an inferior quality to bottom* ^' The breed of the Toorkman horse is of the purest kind; when the animal is overheated, or has performed great work, nature bursts a vein for it in the neck, which I did not credit till I had become an eye-witness of the fact. *' The Toorkmans cut their horses, as it is a popular belief among them that they are then more on the alert and undergo more fatigue than stallions. The Toorkmans believe their horses to be exceedingly nice in hearing, and will often trust to their steeds for the alarm of an approaching enemy. I was particularly struck with the fine crests of the Toorkman horses ; and I heard, though I could not authenticate its truth by observation, that they are often con- fined in a stable with no other aperture than a window in the roof which teaches the animal to look up, and improves his carriage* The contrivance seems fitted for such an end. The finer horses of the Toorkmans are seldom sold, for their owners may be truly said to have as much regard for them as their children. It must not, however, be imagined that all the horses of Toorkestan are equally renowned, for as most persons beyond the Oxus have a mount of some kind, a great portion of them are very inferior animals. " In Bukhara there are many Kazzak horses, a sturdy and little animal, with a shaggy coat and very long mane and tail, much and deservedly admired. They are brought from the deserts between Bokhara and Russia.^' The Toorkman horse, as described by Burnes, may be considered a great rarity throughout the E&shghar territory. There are regular importations of horses from Andijan and Badukshan ; these are of two distinct kinds, the Andijanee horse having, in comparison with the Badukshanee one, the more rounded form and the symmetry of the Arab breed ; while the Badukshanee horse is no doubt an inferior breed from the Toorkman stock. In every sense both breeds appear to turn«out admirable hacks : they are hardy and enduring, and very bold and active, without possessing great speed. I cannot ascertain that there are any long priced horses in the possession of the Amir, or of any of the officials of his Court, and I doubt whether such are brought into the country. I have seen a very fair Badukshanee horse purchased for 13 tillahs : prices may run up to 80 tillahs or 40 tillahs, there being a slight preference for the Andijanee breed amongst the purchasers on account of association. The Andijanee horses, however, are rarely brought in as an article of trade apart. With each kafila there will probably be a few horses which have been ridden by the merchants, which are offered for sale on arrival at E&shghar, or are presented to the Amir. From Badakshan, however, horses for sale are regularly brought over the passes. No foreign horse enters the country and finds its way to the market until after inspection by the Amir's officials, often by himself, and in Y&rkand by the Dadkdwah ; he claims the right of pre-emp- tion, and a good animal invariably finds its way into his stable, or is presentied to one pf the officers of his army. ( 73 ) The breed of the coimtiy, which is bo often spoken of as '' the Ydrkand pony/' presents quite a different type : this is a short horse so to speak, the larger animals approaching what we know as the '' cob/' This nag is an excellent roadster, but his qualities are distinctly those of the pack-animal. He must be separated from the Kazzak horse alluded to by Burnes, and from the Kalmyk pony whose home lies to the north-east in the direction of Kuldja, but which is met with frequently in the provinces of E^hghar; these ponies are exceedingly hardy; they are peculiarly vicious in stable and resent grooming, but if a bridle is held out to them, they readily allow it to be put on and are quiet when mounted. The Tdrkand pony, with his long mane and tail, seems more nearly allied to the Kazzak horse. Both breeds are not usually shod, if they are only used in the plain country, but all ponies that have to cross the mountains are regularly shod. Nearly all the Yarkandees who travel are familiar with the art of putting on shoes. Both ponies of the Y&rkand and of the Ealm&k breed resist being shod ; they have either to be slung or thrown for the purpose. In E&shghar and elsewhere, there are regular slinging arrangements in front of the smithies. The stable treatment, diet, and rearing of the Toorkmans horse alluded to by Burnes is in force throughout Kdshf^har ; remedies for sickness are few, and veterinary treatment appears to be of Chinese introduction, and to be rather of Ealmdk origin than to have come from the west ; the horse doctor's wallet, however, commonly contains, salamoniao which is administered for retention of urine, Ewang Cbia, a Chinese compound, applied for healing wounds, Kwang Chi, a medicine for fever, and a mixture of alum, lime, and vermilion which serves as a second healing application, together with the instruments necessary for bleeding and for cutting out ossification, and an iron tube for administering medicine. In gelding, the entire testicle is extracted and the wound is washed with salt and water, the horse being put on low diet, and kept constantly moving. Well-bred ponies are constantly relieved of surfeit or during heat by the bursting of small veins near the surface of the body. Burnes refers to the bursting of a vein in the neck of the Toorkman horse as a special provision of nature under similar oircumstances. The best Y&rkand ponies are purchased at Ydrkand itself, where they are cheaper than at K6shghar and elsewhere. The prices range from 120 tangas es Rupees 25 to 400 tangas == Bupees 80. Kalmdk ponies are not so common in the market, as they are preferred for riding. The load placed on the Ydrkand pony by the trader is rarely under 2^ maunds = 2001bs., and is usually 8 maunds or 2i01!bs; this in addition to a heavy felt and pad (paUn). It is customary for the Yarkandee to balance the load by taking a seat on the top, so that, if the weight of a man be added to the above, the limit of endurance is probably reached. At extreme altitudes the baggage animals often suffer from congestion — the remedy usually adopted is to throw the sufferer, pierce a hole through the cartilage of the nostril, pass a few hairs of the tail through this, which are tied in a knot, give a sharp cut with the whip, and the animal rising tears out the cartilage. The long mane and tail of the Yarkandee pony have already been noticed ; when crossing streams and frequently in stable the tail is tied in one or two knots and kept from trailing. Stabling lighted by a single hole in the roof is referred to by Burnes as a possible means of causing a horse to acquire an erect carriage by teaching him to look up. The ordinary method of lighting and ventilating, not only stabling, but dwelling-houses in Turkestan, is by a hole in the roof, and does not appear to have its origin in any idea of affecting the carriage of the horse. The practice of confining animals in very dark stabling seems, however, to act injuriously and make them addicted to shying. The very large number of ponies in Eastern Turkestan might appear a matter of great surprise^ but from the earliest time this animal seems to have been applied to every possible use ; the climate is favorable to him and he is well cared for as a matter of course. The limited number of old ponies in work and in the market is striking in comparison with other countries ; the fact is that the Yarkandee gets as much as he possibly can out of his ( 74 ) .pony darinff the years of bis prime^ and when he is old or stricken^ readily disposes of him at the batcher^s shop. The practice of eating horse-flesh thas^ in some measare^ does away with the necessity for veterinary practice. The price of horse-flesh is asnally something more than what is paid for beef or mattooi and the dish is by very many deemed a luxury. The usaal grain . upon which the Ydrkand pony is fed is Indian-corn^ but dry fodder (Lnoeme grass) is the chief article of diet. Barley is given to the better class of horses by those who can afford it. The use of ponies in ploughing is referred to elsewhere. With Mabomedans Solomon is the special protector of horses; before gelding or adminis- tering medicine^ prayers are addressed to Solomon, the horse doctor also takes the name of Duldul, the horse of the Divinity and Mahomed's horse. Stroking his beard and saying :— '^Ba birknt-i-Hazrat-i^ Solomon Nubbi^ ba hormut-i-burak-i- Mahomadee^ ba hormut-i- Duldul-i-Allee, ba in Asp Sehut shavad.'' Vegetable. — E&shghar is singularly deficient in the variety of its indigenous flora, and the distribution of vegetation generally, as the preceding description will have foretold, is very limited and sparse ; yet there are some peculiar features of vegetable growth generally in this country which may be now briefly noted. In the western parts of the country all vegetation is dormant from October till April. It is not till the early days of the latter month that the ground begins to green on the plain, whilst in the hills, according to the elevation, the period of activity is variously postponed to as late as June. We found no wild plants in flower on the plain during all our stay in the country, excepting a few common field herbs in the settlements, and a few wild plants at the foot of the hills as we left the country towards the end of May. Everywhere on the plains we found either the withered stalks of the preceding summer's growth, or the fresh sprouts of the new season. For convenience of description I propose to notice the flora of this country very briefly under different heads, according to habitat in the hills, or deserts, or plains, or cultivated settlements. In the hills, and the valleys and plateaux spreading between them, there is a more or less abundant vegetation which supports numerous herds of domestic cattle, as well as an unknown number of their wild congeners. On the Pamir and AUtfigh it is described as a rich growth of pasture grasses and flowering herbs with few shrubs and fewer trees. From the description given to me by some Kirghiz shepherds these pastures would appear to resemble those of the Khurasan highlands, and to be mainly composed of different varieties of Artemisia and Astragalus, with the Calligonum, Hedysarun, and Peganum, the Ephedra, Berberis, and Tamarix, with a smaller growth of thistles, trefoils, crowfoots, &c. ; with the crocus, lily, and onion, dispersed amidst the general spread of grasses and sedges. On the hill slopes grows the juniper, and along the water- courses are found the willow, tamarisk, rose, honeysuckle, and its climber, the clematis. The description is not far out from our own experiences of the valleys at the foot of Alatagh on the north, and the Muztagh rans:e on the south. In the former we found the wider pasture valleys very much as above described in point of vegetation, and in the narrower ones, drained by a river, as the Sughun north of Arto:«h, we found belts of tall reeds and grasses with detached clusters of poplar, and willow, and celeagnus ; and at intervals, in the bed of the stream, thickets of tamarisk, rose, barbery and honeysuckle with its entwining clematis. In the valleys of the K4r&kash, Tiznaf, and Yarkand rivers on the south, we found the vegetation with much the same general character. Thickets of tamarisk, buckthorn, myriearia, rose, honey- suckle, clematis, &c., set the banks on each side, or covered the uneven ground with a scattered brushwood, in the spaces of which grew spreads of tall grasses of the arundo and andropogon species, with now and then fields of carex, sedge, or tufty patches of poagrass. Scattered bushes of the barbery and the thorny Astragalus, with the Ephedra and another species of short tufty Astragalus dotted the hill slopes, with a more or less thick sprinkling of the Artemisia and the Peganum Harmali. In the lower valleys are found the poplar, wiUow, occasionally the wild fig or pipal of India, and generally the Hololachne, with the tamarisk and rose everywhere. At the higher elevations the brushwood dwindles and dis- appears, and the surface is either bare gravel and clay, or it is dotted with tufts of the Eurotia 15.— Flour Cleaner and Oil Sellers. i "/ >6, — Verandah of interior Court yard of the Urda of the Dadkhwah of Varkund, shewing the Hall of Audience. , I r --* ' ^ i .. ( 75 ) salsola, and a Caryophyllaoeoos Arenaria, both of which are called iurtii by the natiyes of Thibet, to whom, in commoD with other travellers in this region, they are the only sources of fad ; or else, at some springhead, there is an oasis of green grasses and sedg^es with crowfoots and gentian. On the slopes and hollows where the soil is slaty, rhubarb grows in plenty, and where granite more predominates are found two or three varieties of large leafed Umbellifer, Saxifrages, and the Saussurea, whilst thistles and the prophet flower or Arnebia are met as common roadside plants in the intermediate elevations at almost every bed of gravel or sand. On the deserts, vegetation of every kind is extremely scanty. Wide patches of tail reeds, species of Arundo and Andropogon, are found where the surface is water-logged by marsh or pool ; and where there are desiccated hollows, deep with loose pulverulent salines, the Hololachne, Salsola, Halieomia, and other saltworts, with a degenerate sort of dwarf tamarisk, luxuriate in proportion. For the rest the surface is a sheer waste of bare arid sand, till its continuity is cut by some river bed, when vegetation again appears in belts of thick forest along each bank. Here the chief constituents are tall reeds, called comusA (Andropogon) and ckt^h (Arundo), the poplar, called taghrae (Populus balsamifera), and the tamarisk, called yiUghun. On the plains, or waste tracts between the cultivated settlements, is a very scanty and widely dispersed scrub of camels thorn, wild liquorice (on both of which are seen the tangled skeins of the dodder), Callig^num, Lycium, and Peganum, with here and there patches of Hololachne, and spreads of tribulns terrestris, with trefoils and melilots; the convolvulus, goosefoot, chamomile, artemisia, dandelion, thistle, and other common herbs of every English roadside. In the cultivated settlements vegetation reaches its greatest development, and, by compari- son with the wastes around, flourishes in rich abundance. The wild herbs of the fields and meadows are those of England. The corncockle and poppy, the tare and trefoils, with the plantain and polygeny, peep out amidst the growing crops with familiar habitude ; whilst the fumitory, marsh mallow, amaranth, and darnel spread a carpet on the foot-paths, and conduct to the meadows of rich clover and grass, radiant with buttercup and daisy, potentil and tormentil, anemone and geranium ; and fragrant with mint and thyme, and sage and centaury. All the settlements are well stocked with trees for fuel, timber, and fruit. The common roadside trees are the poplar and the wiUow, and there are two kinds of each, the toghrdc or '' populus balsamifera^' and the tarik or '^ populus alba,'' the bed or ** weeping willow,'' and the iugat or ''common willow." The togkrde yields a gum and a fungoid growth called togkrdghii which is used in medicine and as a ferment in baking ; and the tarik furnishes the timber used in house-building. The bed is an ornamental tree, not very common, and with its relative, the 9ugatj which is always polled for the purpose, is the principal source of fuel during winter. The other common trees are the uzma or mulberry, the eadda or elm, the jighda or celeagnus, and the ekild% or jujube. I saw the eadda only in the Yarkand division, but the others are common everywhere, and their fruits are largely consumed ; those of the two last never fail to appear on every dasiiirlhwdn ; and I must record* never seem to grow less, so long at least as there is anything more palatable and satisfying at band. The walnut grows at Yarkand and in the southern divisions, but I did not see it at Efishghar, whither the fruit is carried to market from Yarkand. For the rest, the vegetation of the settlements may be included under the head of agri- cultural products, and will be noticed hereafter when describing the agricultural industry of the country. Mineral. — ^The mineral products of Kasbghar are varied, and from all accounts abundant, diough lamentably neglected and undeveloped. The gold*diggings and jade-quarries of Khutan have long been famous in history, the iron furnaces of Kizili are still in operation, and the coal of Aksii and Turf&n continues to bum on the domestic hearth in those places. That found in the former locality is described as of excellent quality and very black ; whilst that of Turf&n is said to be of a reddish-brown color and of very inferior burning power, owing to its gritty and earthy impurities. The Aksti coal is said to come from the vicinity of Ear4bagh, and that of Turf&n from the hills about Sirkip near Ghocbang. The Turki name of the mineral is tdsi hiim4r ox ^^ stone charcoal." ( 76 ) From the yolcanic region between Kdcbi and Karashahr the markets of the western cities are supplied with alum, sal ammoDiac, sulphate of copper, and yellow ochre ; and mines of lead and copper which are worked by the Chinese are indicated in this vicinity ; w., those of lead at Tajik Tagh, ten id$A north-east of Aksu, and those of copper at Onb&sh on the Muxart river near Bay. Lead and siilphar are, it is said, still procured for the Edshghar market from the former Chinese workings in some low hills near Ealpin on the Aksay river south of Aksu, and a lead mine, now nnworked, is said to exist in the hills near Oksalor on the Mingyol road to the Tirik Dawau. The ore is also brought in, with crude sulphur from the bills to the west of Opal, by the Kirghiz of that vicinity, as is metallic antimony picked up on the surface in the form of small rolled pebbles. Iron is brought to the Kizili smelting furnaces from Kizilt&gh and Tumur T&gh, or *^ Red Hill'' and '' Iron Hill," respectively, at the sources of the Shabnaz river. Further south again, at Eosharab, are old forsaken mines of lead and silver, whilst at Khoja Maz&r on the Tiznaf river south of Eoky&r are the copper mines discovered and worked by the Chinese. On our way up this valley we saw the ruins of the smelting furnaces on the river bank, where fuel was in plenty, a little below Ehoja Mazar ; but none of the people with us could point out the site of the mines which had been abandoned since the disappearance of the Chinese from the country. An impure kind of alimentary salt is gathered on the surface of desiccated pools on tbe desert south and west of Maralbasbi; and gypsum, or plaster of Paris, is found in extensive beds in many localities aloDg the hill skirts^ It is the cement generally used instead of lime for plas- tering walls, &G., in all the western towns of the country. Industrial produetionB. — ^These may be briefly noticed under two separate heads of agricul- ture and manu&cture. Agriculiure, — ^This is the most important and most widely spread industry of the country, and the one on which the inhabitants depend for existence, as there are no imports of bread- stuffs from neighbouring countries. Consequently all the settled population, other than urban, is agriculturalist and nothing else. Cattle-breeding is the care of the wandering Eirghiz and Ealmak, and manufactures are the business of the city people. The agriculturalists or peasantry are spread over the settlements and city suburbs in a fashion peculiar to the country. Each family has a separate homestead, called oe, and these homesteads stand either singly or in clusters of two or three or more together, in the midst of the fields and plantations and orchards by which they are surrounded. None of the homesteads, or clusters of them, is enclosed, or in any way protected by fortified walls of defence ; nor in any settlement are the tenements massed together as in an Indian village. Generally from four to sixty or eighty homesteads are planted at short intervals of a hundred to two or three hundred yards or more along the course of a rivulet or canal, and each such group forms a parish or ward called makalla, and its community is superintended by an elder, called dcsacdl or '^ grey-beard.'' A collection of these mahalla forms a village or yaz^ ^nd a succession of two or three or more of these form a township or kand. In each kand there is a market or bazar ; it usually consists of a main-street of stalls and cross-streets opening into it, and about them are crowded together the residences of the Government officials, and of the resident shopkeepers, victuallers, artizans, &c. The several residences are enclosed within walls and are called kauli ; towards the exterior they separate from each other and gradually merge into the homesteads scattered around. The baxar is never fortified, but in some of the strategically important townships there is a separate little fort. The Government of each kand is supervised by a district governor, who is called beg^ or Mir, or $arkdr, according to his rank and the importance of his charge ; and he has under him a staff of officials for the maintenance of order, collection of revenue, &o. A market is held once a week in the bazar, and is attended by the peasantry of the township and neighbouring settlements, who here barter their farm produce for the productions of the city, and lay in a stock of provisions for the ensuing week, and at sunset disperse to their homes. Each kand has its mosque, and school, and guest-house, with their respective priests, tutors, and servitors, and is, in fact, so far as the requirements of life are concerned, a complete integer of the many that go to form a division or provincial Government ; or in other words, the bazar is to the constituent elements of the township what the capital is to the component parts of the ( 77 ) provinoe. In its shops are foand all the domestic reqairements of the peasantry, whilst the joarneymen cobblevB^ saddlers^ farriers^ jtc, who attend on market-day^ perform all the neoessary little jobs necessitated by wear and tear. On these busy days little coin is current ; all exchanges are by barter* Farm prodoocj such as grain, fruits, cotton, fodder, poultry, &c., with home-span yarn, and home* woven cloth, and a coarse cotton fabric eal\ed iidm or iar6da, and live-stock, such as horses, pk>ugh-oxen, cows, sheep, ftc., are brought in and exchanged with the city traders or baear shopkeepers for ready made clothing, as fur trimmed hats, printed scarves^ embroidered boots, silk frocks or glased cloaks, latticed veils, &c., for the fair sex, and fur coats and top boots, fur caps, coats of quilted cotton, ko,, for the men ; or they are exchanged amongst each other, as a horse for so many sheep, &c. The kidm is the material most in demand by the city traders, and is generally purchased for cash after brisk competition. The produce of the farms may be classed under the three heads of field, garden, and orchard. The operations in each are all begun and completed during six months of the year«- from April to October — and for the remainder, the ground^ as its tiller, lies idle. All cultivated land is irrigated; without water no crop matures. The distribution of water is superintended tj a Government officer called mirdb, and there are seYcral of them in each township, according to size and extent. The mirdb in turn makes over the stream under his charge, or a portion of it, to the desacdl of the several maAalla, and he allots the water proportionally to each homestead. At each harvest the mirdb receives as fee from each daaedl one part in fifty of the total outturn of com in his moAalla. Of the whole which the mirdd thus collects, he keeps one-half for him- self, and the other half he makes over to the beg for Government ; or if the land be held in fief by a pdiuad, or other feudatory of the king, he delivers it to such feoffee. For the rest, agri- cultural operations are much the same as elsewhere. Horses and oxen are used indifferently in the plough, and manure of the dung-heaps is freely mixed with the soil, which is everywhere very poor and requires much attention. As the crops sprout, it is customary to give them two or three successive top-dressings of clean, dry sand, to counteract the injurious effects of the white saline encrustations which continually form on the surface. The principal field crops are the following :— « Wheat (Bughddy) . --It is sown in two seasons, viz.y in August and September, for the winter crop, called EAzluk bugkidy^ and in March and April for the summer crop, called Tdtluk bughddy. The autumn sowing lies in the ground through the winter, and sprouts in March, about the time of the spring sowing. Both crops ripen together and are cut in July ; but the winter seed returns fourteen-fold, or fourteen cidrat for every chdrak sown, whereas the spring seed returns only seven-fold. This crop is consequently mostly sown in autumn. In spring, during April, they receive two or three top-dressings of manure and sand, and are not irrigated till in ear. Barley (Arpa).'^\% not grown in Eashghar and Tangi Hissar, and but sparingly in Yar- kand. It returns ten-fold, and is sown in spring at the same time as wheat. Its ten-fold return is said to be actually less than the seven-fold of wheat, owing to the lighter weight of its seed. Maize (G^n^fe).— Generally grown everywhere. Sown in April and harvested in September, Beturns sixty-fold. The corn and stalks are used as winter food for horses and cattle instead of barley, and the meal very generally as a bread stuff. Bice (Skdl), the |^Iant, and gurunj, the grain. — ^Principally grown in Yarkand division. Sown in April and cut in September and October. Beturns six to eight-fold. The seed is husked on the banks of the canals by a pounder-mill worked by water. It is called #^ana, and con- msts of a horizontal axle-beam, in the middle of the shaft of which are four immovable flanges or paddle-boards against which the water plays. The shaft is supported at each end by an upright socket post on each side of the mill-stream, and at one end of it are two long clappers which project six or eight inches on opposite sides. As the shaft revolves, by the water play- ing against the paddles, these clappers alternately, in turn, catch and release the handle of the pounder, which works on a fulcrum block, and is so adjusted that the clapper in revolving with the shaft shall catch and depress the short hand of the lever, and thus raise the pounder, which projects down at right angles from its other end, and let it fall again as in course of revolution it releases the depressed lever head. The pounder is a round-ended bar of wood ( 78 ) fixed at right angles into the head of the long hand of the lever, and plays upon the rice in a wooden mortar. The iiieana may be built by anyone on a suitable stream by permission of the district governor, and on payment of a fee to Government of sixty tan^a (fourteen rupees about) and this clears him of all further taxation on its operations. The miller's charge is one chdrak in fifteen of husked rice. The entire mechanism of the mill is in wood-work, and the several parts are very neatly put together. We saw several of these mills at work on the canals in the line of our march, and were impressed by the stride in civilization in advance of what we had left behind us in Kashmir, where the laborious and by no means graceful opera- tions of the pole pestle and mortar are a prominent feature in the scene peculiar to the banks of the Bidasta. Lucerne {Turilihea), green, and beda, dry. — Sown in August and September; sprouts in March and April, Is cut three times in six months, and after each receives a top-dressing of manure, and free irrigation, one sowing lasts three years, after which the roots decay. When sown, the seed is mixed with an equal quantity of barley, otherwise the lucerne does not thrive. It is extensively grown as a fodder crop, and is stored in bundles for winter use. Millet {Jodri) — Is grown in the southern districts, mostly at the same time as maize. Grain and stalks used as winter fodder for cattle, and the meal as a bread stuff. Cotton {kiwaz). — Largely cultivated in Ehutan, Yarkand and Turf&n, and exported east and west in both the raw and manufactured state, and also extensively consumed for home use. The seed is sown in April and May, flowers in July, and pods continue forming till the end of October. They are gathered three times in the season, and after the last gathering the stalks are cat away close to the ground. The plant does not grow higher than two to three feet, and bears much more fruit than foliage. Fresh seed is sown every year. Two cAdrai=^{ortj pounds of seed are allowed to each tandb of land=660 yards square, and yield eight tdrtam=t\7euty pounds of cotton, and twenty-four idrtam=sixtj pounds of seed. The Government tax is five tan^a=ibont one rupee on each tandb, or less according to quality and selling price. The seed is separated from th& cotton by an ingenious roller gin, worked by pedal and eccentric wheel ; it is called chip Arte. The seeds are pressed for oil, and the cake given to fatten cattle. The cotton is considered of excellent quality, and is in great demand for the Khokand and Tash- kand markets. Flax (Ziffkir). — Extensively cultivated for its seed in all the western divisions. The seed is the chief source of the oil used in the country, and the cake is given to stall-fed cattle. The oil- mill or press is worked by horses or oxen, and is similar to that used in the Punjab. The seed is sown in April and May, and the crop is cut in October. Indian hemp {Kandir). — Grown largely in the Yarkand division. The resin is collected in October and packed in bags of raw hide for export^ principally to India ; and hemp is prepared from the stalks, bat it is a very coarse fibre and only used for twisting into rope by the peasantry. The resin packed for exportation is usually pounded up with a varying proportion of the green leaves, and the adulteration is carried to such an extent that in the Yarkand bazar the drug sells at only twelve or twelve and a hM Jinp to the chdrak^ instead of sixteen which is the proper measure. That is to say, a fourth part or thereabouts is struck out of the calculation for payment. For example, the selling price of chars (the resin) is from thirty to fifty tanga the ekdrak of sixteen jing ; the seller, who is the producer too, weighs out sixteen jing and takes payment for only twelve, receiving twenty-two and a half to forty-two and a half tanga instead of thirty to fifty. There are different qualities of the drug according to the manner and period of its collection, and they are carefully scrutinized by connoisseurs. The Government tax on the drug is two tanga (eight annas nearly) per chdrak. Hemp resin is very generally consumed by all classes, and in the cities it is abused to excess with very injurious effects upon the health of the people. It is generally called bang, and is smoked mixed with tobacco, or eaten in the form of a oonfectioo. The confection is thus prepared :«-to ten tolas of bang add ten pints of water, and boil ; then remove from the fire, and on cooling, strain through muslin. To the strained liquor add five tolas of mutton fat, and boil again till the suet is melted ; then remove from the fire and pour in cold water till the fat cdkes with the bang and subsides and clear liquor only remains. Pour this off, and to the fat add saffron one mithcdl, zedoary one mithcdl, and cinnamon one tola, all finely powdered, and honey, ten tolas, and thoroughly mix together. / < w ) . Opiom {Jfim.)'^The poppy is cultivated in Yarkand and Kashghar^ bat not hrgely. The opinm got from it is of very inferior quality and only used to mix with the foreign drag whioh comes from India, Poppy^beads and the seeds are sold in the bazar by druggists for medical purposes. Opium is either eaten or smoked. In the former case> either raw as purchased, or in the form of extract. This is prepared thus :«-Steep the opium in water over night, then wash into a thick solution, and strain through muslin. Boil the liquor to evaporation in a greased saucepan to prevent the opium sticking to the sides and getting burned. Cool and dry, and the extract is ready for use, either to eat or to smoke. In the latter case, the smoker lies down on one side with his head on a pillow close to the lamp, at which he lights his pipe. This is a china or metal tube some sixteen inches long, with a jade or other mouthpiece, and is called gidza. At the far end (which is closed), on one side, is a small aperture large enough to admit a goose-quill. In the aperture a small quantity of the soft extract, about the size of a pea, is applied to its sides by a pencil of wood, which is twirled between the finger and thumb, so that the extract sticks to the sides and orifice of the aperture without blocking it. The pipe is tiien turned to the candle, and the aperture with the opium brought close up to the fiame. The smoker now draws several sharp full inhalations till the opium is consumed, and puffing out the smoke from his lungs, goes off into a dreamy stupor. This habit is extremely prevalent in the cities, and in private houses too. Both sexes are equally addicted to it as to bang. The garden produce of Kashghar may be considered essentially the same as that of European countries. The cabbage, turnip, and radish, the carrot, beet, and lettuce, the onion, capsicum and tobacco, and peas, and beans, and the egg plant, are grown in the suburbs of all the western cities and towns; as are the pulses, cicer and phaseolus, and melons and cucumbers of excellent quality, together with the pumpkin and the gourd. These last are scooped out and used as water jars, and soine of them are larger in capacity than an ordinary bucket; the gourd is generally of the long bottle-necked kind, and is called iapak. Many kinds of flowering plants are also cultivated, such as the rose, the tuberose, the lily, the wall-flower, china aster, marigold, &c. With the orchards are included the vineyards and plantations. In them are found the plum, apricot, peach, pear, apple, and quince; the fig, the walnut, the pomegranate, the celeagnus, jujube, and mulberry. The vines are trained on trellises, and produce excellent grapes of many different varieties. They are preserved for winter use by hanging the bunches on rope lines stretched across deep cellars. The raisins, of small seedless variety, are more or less green and of excellent flavour, whilst those prepared from the Turfan grape are noted for their size and sweetness, though in appearance they look uninviting. Manufaeiures. — Since the overthrow of the Chinese rule, the manufacturing industries of K&shgbar have declined, and in the case of some profitable arts have altogether dis- appeared. The workings at almost all the metalliferous mines, as at those of coal and the quarries of jade, have ceased with the continuance of their rule. The manufacture of jade ornaments has disappeared, and the art itself is said to be lost with the workmen who perished in the revolt. The trade in the unwrought mineral is gradually reviving, and choice samples of the stone now slowly find their way to China through Almati on the one side and Leh on the other. The gold mines of Khutan are worked on a small scale, as a strict monopoly by the Amir, and the coal of Aksd and Turfan is collected on the surface by the peasantry and carried for sale to the cities ; but its consumption now is, from all accounts^ as nothing to what it used to be under the Chinese. The iron mines of Shahnaz are the only ones whioh con- tinue in full operation. The collection and smelting of the ore, which is all done at Kizili, provides employment and means of support to some four or five hundred families. The metal which is considered of very superior and ductile quality, supplies the markets of all the western cities, and is entirely used up in trte manufacture of domestic utensils and articles for home use. The silk culture and manufacture of different textures from it at Khutan was in a very depressed state, but the Amir is making efforts to revive it. What is produced is for the greater part exported to Khokand in the form of a coarse spun fibre, or it is used at home for purposes of embroidery, &o. It is sold in the bazars of K&shghar side by side with Khokand silk (which is oi far finer and softer quality) in the form of loose hanks dyed in ( 80 ) a variety of bright colours. Formerly most of this coarse silk was used up at Khutan in the weaving of a strong parti-coloured material from which robes were made^ and mach^ too, was used in the manufacture of carpets^ for which the place has long enjoyed celebrity. The carpet manufacture of Khutan is of a kind peculiar to the place. The ordinary wool carpets are of very good quality, and the patterns and colours are simple, and combined with harmonious effect; but they don't approach the carpets of Persia, such as those of Ghayn and Kirmanshah, either in the elaborateness of design, the superior soft quality of the wool, the excelling fineness of the dyes, or in general evidence of artistic skill. The special manufac- ture of the place^ however, has excelling qualities peculiar to itself. The silk carpets are highly prized, and in the time of the Chinese were much in demand, but they are not now made, except to special order. Another kind of carpet, in which the wool pattern stands on a ground of gold or silver, formed of three- plait threads, is an admirable novelty^ and wears a look of superb richness which fit it for the kino^'s chamber. The weight of this carpet is surprising, and its cost heavy in proportion. Its disadvantage is that the metals are apt to tarnish in damp weather and mar the effects of its proper brilliance. One of these carpets was spread in the residency prepared for us at Eashghar. It had evidently seen much rough service, yet even in its worn state it commanded admiration. For the rest, the manufactures ot Kashghar may be considered as merely the handicraft trades which are found to flourish amongst all organized societies of civilized men. A strong coarse cotton cloth called kidm is woven in all the western settlements, though more abundantly in Khutan. It is the dress of the common people, and for winter wear is padded with cotton and quilted. Much of it is exported to Khokand and Badakhsh&n and Thibet. The loom used resembles that seen in the Punjab. In Yarkand boots and shoes are made, and hides are tanned, for the supply of the markets of Khutan and Kashghar. Very good saddlery and harness, as used in this country^ are also made here and at Aksu. Felts are made at Khutan, and also amongst the Kirghiz. Furs, mostly sheep-skins, trimmed with imported otter skins from Russia^ and ibex skins from Kashmir, are cured in all the towns and made up into cloaks, &c., for the home trade. But most of the furs got into the country are exported to Russian territory. A kind of buff leather, of which are made the loose *^ overall' trowsers called skim, is prepared at Yarkand and also at Aksu. That made in the latter city is the best, and its excellence is attributed t<» the superior quality of the pomegranate rind used in the process of curing. Ironsmiths and carpenters, each in their own line, turn out a number of articles of domestic use^ and they occupy a prominent place in the bazar shops. Inhabitants. — From previous remarks it will have been gathered that the inhabitants of Kdshghar consist of a mixture of tribes or races which belong to one or other of those two great principal families of the Central Asia continent, namely the Turk and the Tartar. Of- the many new sights and scenes that meet the eye of the traveller in K&shghar, none more fixes his attention than the singular varieties of physiognomy and race type that are crowded together in the cities; a feature which distinguishes them in a marked manner from the inhabitants of the rural districts. Yet, with all the variation in stature, build, and facial lineament, he sees there is a common semblance pervading the mass which declares the natural affinity of its constituents^ and no less distinctly warns him that he has come amongst a different people to those he has left behind him in India. In the first place, he finds there is not a black skin, nor even a dark complexion amongst them. Then he observes that their features are different modifications of one and the same type, and as different from that of the Hindu, as is their clothing from that of the natives of India. On further acquaintance he learns that their language is of an entirely separate stock ; that their manners and morals are of a stamp diverse to the ethical system obtaining south of the passes ; and that their mental qualities are of a peculiar character too. He notices that they are averse to sustained physical exertion, or to the endurance of toil, and everywhere sees the horse and the ass saving all the labour of walking and carrying burdens ; whilst a variety of mechanical aids meet him at almost every turn, in witness to the ingenuity of the devices adopted to reduce the operations of necessary work to a minimum. He is struck by the pane* tilious ceremonies that regulate their society; and by the universal degradation of their amatory / ( 81 ) iDstinciSj and its concomitant indiflFerenoe to the chastity of their women. And finally, he 18 struck by their complete freedom from all those caste-prejudices and restrictions which form so important a character of the system of society in India, and finds them omnivorous^ in point of indifference as to meats and drinks ; cosmopolitan, as regards citizenship, and care- lessly tolerant in matters of religions sentiment, if not of doctrinal ascendancy. For the sake of description, the inhabitants of the country may be classed under the heads of urban and rural^ and between the two^ in the western divisions at leasts to which my remarks will be now confined, there is a marked difference ; as there is between the two great divisions of the rural population itself. As regards the urban population, 1 will not attempt to describe in detail the several typical forms of its race representatives, nor the hybrid gradations and half-caste varieties produced by their indiscriminate intermixture. To convey a tolerably correct notion of the heterogenous elements that have combined to produce the homogeneous whole of the city population, it will be sufficient here to indicate the principal tribes of the two typical forms of man — the Mongolian and the Caucasian — which meet and commino^le in these centres of life and activity. Thus of the former stock we find the Manjhu^ the Moghol or Mongol, the Ealroik, the Kirghiz, the Noghay, the Kapchak, and the Uzbak« All of whom are designated Tartar, together with the Kara Khitay, the Khitay, and the Tungani, who are excluded from that category, though of the same stock. Of tbe latter typical form we find the Tajik of Hindu Rush, rcptesented by the Wakhi, Badakhshi, Shighni, &c., the Kashmiri, the Kabuli^ and the Punjabi, all of whom are included in the appellation Aryan, together with the Syad and the Arab, who are not so included. In these several tribes the typical form is most aberrant only in the Uzbak of the one stock, and in the Syad of the other, owing to their more thorough inter- mix ture^ the first with a Tajik element, and the other with a Moghol element. The remaining tribes of each original stock, having maintained a more or less complete isolation in their native homes, possess a proportionately perfect typical resemblance to the parent form. The hybrid offspring between a male and female of the opposite stocks, between Mogholian and Caucasian, is called Arghun, and always takes after the superior stock, whether the Caucasian parent be male or female. This is exemplified as fully in the exterior form of body and cast of features as in the superior development of the intellectual faculty and improved standard of morality. Frequently the Arghun in physiognomy and growth of beard is not to be distinguished from the pure Aryan, whilst in stature and bulk of body he certainly equals, if he does not excel, the average of the superior stock. His quick intelligence, fertility in resource, and ready organization are acknowledged in the fact of his often rising to the most important offices under Government, and in the character he bears as a shrewd man of business, successful manager, and good accountant. But as rule his better qualities are suppressed by the nature of tbe society in which his lot is cast, and his inferior social status has made him cautious and crafty, and gained him an unenviable character for treachery, at least, in the lower ranks of the class. The half-caste offspring between different cognate tribes of the Mogholian stock differ little from the typical form of the original race, except in the very varied modifications of the family type; and their tendency is to degenerate in intellectual as well as moral and physical qualities. To this mixed class belong those nondescript, ilUfavoured creatures who compose the rabble of the streets ; untutored in mind, dissolute in habits, and tattered in garments, veritable street Arabs, ready at every comer to hold a horse, carry a bundle, or run a message ; and equally ready, too, to pick a pocket, filch a steak, or rob a baker's board. Many of them are hawkers about the streets of meat pies, pastry, biscuits, and sweetmeats, which they trundle about on hand-barrows, just as their counterparts do in London ; or they hang about the more frequented thorough- fares with a tray of buns and cakes, supported against the stomach in front by a sling round the neck. Some go about with a knife-grinder's cart exactly similar to those seen in any £nglish town, and accompany it with a cry that twangs familiar to the English ear ; others carry flat baskets of cucumber, melon, &c., on their heads, and cry them in the streets as the cadger does in the London by-ways. But whatever their occupation they all have the \ \ ( 82 ) same perplexing Tartar featareB, whiob partake of Kbitay and MaDJbaf and Ealm&ki and Kirghiz aemblanoe, yet are distinctly referable to neither one or the other. They are said to be the offspring of Chinese troops and traders of the abovenamed and other tribes by half*caste women of the cities. In Ua, these half-castes hy a Manjha father and Kalro&k mother are oalled Solon, as those by a Khitay father and Kalin&k mother are called Shiba; but the termS| thoagh known, are not commonly used in K&hghar. Similar to these half-castes in some respects, bat strangely different in physiognomy, is the Ch&lgart, or offspring of an Uabak father by a woman of Kishghar. The range in variety of feature in this class is very ereat, and its most notable peculiarity is that it presents an equal blending of the typical rmed and of square build. The measured heights of individuals natives of other cities were these, vie. : — A man of Edchi, 71-60''; of KhuUn, 72-10^; two men of Aksti, 7110'' and 71*50^; two men of Kisbghar, Og-eO"" ; and a Onlan of Taskama, 65*40^ The urban population of the western cities, it will be gathered from the preceding remarks, is a confused mixture of Turk and Tartar, or Moghol and T&jik, and the (offspring of their several alliances one with the other. Their appearance as a whole baffles de- scription, because the special characteristics of the several types are incapable of general ( 83 ) spplicatioD* All that can be distinctly stated is that Tartar blood predominatea with a gpreater or less admixtare of the Tark element^ and a spriokliug here and there^ more or less thioki of the foreign Tajik forms; snch obtains in the cities only. In the mrJEd districts the case is very different Here the population consists of two distinct classes, the settled or agricultural, and the wandering or nomad. The settled population is everywhere in the western divisions of the country of Turk descent^ and represents the ancient Hiungnu or Uighur, the Han of Hyatila or Attila^s invading armies. Time and circumstances have completely changed their personality, and now they differ but little in external appearance from their cousios, the heirs of the Saljuk conquest of Asia Minor and Byzantium, where, in the west as in the east, they have given their name to the country of their adoption ; Turkey on the one side, and Turkistan on the other. They are a fine, well-grown people, with a more or less distinct trace of northern origin which has not been quite obliterated by their Caucasian devel(»pment of beard and stature. This Tartar cast of countenance is more noticeable in some districts than in others, and especially in Yangi Hissar, where the effects of the Tajik innervation are less developed than in the divisions to the north and south. In physical constitution the rural population is superior to that of the cities ; but, though diligent and orderly in their avocations, they are equally incapable of enduring continued or severe labor. This may be partly accounted for by the life of inactivity they lead during the loqg winter, from November to March, during which period all agriculture operations are in abeyance. It is said that they only have three months of real work in the year, the season of ploughing and the season of reaping. For the rest, they have an easy time of it, and are seen stretched before their homesteads basking in the sun, or sleeping away the heavy hours under the shade of their plantations, fte the case may be. They are not given to athletic exercises, nor to sport generally, and the weekly market-day is the only event that rouses them to activity. At Karghalik I took the measurements of height and circumference of the heads of thirty men as at Yarkand. They were taken indiscriminately from the crowd of spectators gathered about our quarters ; the subjoined are the results : — Heigki and Cireumferenee of head in ineiet. Tallest Medium Shortest The nomad population is represented by the Kirghiz. They are of distinct Moghol type, but of a different family from their kinsmen and neighbours on the north, and west, and east, m., the Kazzak, Kapchak, and Kalm&k, respectively. Their occupation is entirely that of shepherds and breeders of cattle. They are a hardy race, and fond of field sports and hunting. The tribes most in contact with the fixed population show signs of the intermixture with the superior stock in increased g-rowth of body and some show of beard. Their intellectual qualities and morality, however, are described as of a low order. They are said to be quarrel* some, indolent, and filthy in habits ; to be much addicted to drunkenness, robbery, and petty theft Their women ftre said to do all the domestic labor in the camps, and manufacture the felts, carpets, tapes, &c., for which the race is celebrated. In complexion they are fair, and some of them are rosy ; but their type of beauty is only suited to the Kirghiz taste, and for ugliness is not to be matched in many countries. Yet SQme of the younger girls, though with no pretensions to beauty, according to the European standard, have comely features^ and Bimple,^ modest manners, which, if common report be true, is more than can be said of the matrons and wives of either the nomad or the fixed population. The foregoing remarks apply to the representative inhabitants of the country. The special tribes found located amongst them have been already mentioned in the notice of the several governmental divisions. ... •• • Inchat. Inches. 70-40 21-00 Maximum. 66-75 20-66 Medium. 61-50 20*40 Minimum. ( 84 ) ManMr$ and ctuloms. — ^These vary more or less widely atnonget the several distmct peoples eompoBing the general popalation ; but those that control the condact of the oommanitiea massed together in the cities and settlements may be taken as a guide to the whole. Islam is the religion of the land, and has been for eight centuries. Conseqaently the mode of life of the people is in the main in accordance with the precepts of that doctrine. During the last century of Chinese rule, the observance of the prophet's law fell into neglect owin^r to the absence of State aathority amongst the priesthood, and a general laxity of morals and disregard of religions ordinances soon spread amongst the people, and even pervaded the ranks of the priesthood itself. Most prominent amongst these innovations was the restoration of woman to her former state of freedom and equality in general society. But now on the re-establishment of a purely Islamite rule, and the strict enforcement of the Shari^at^ this liberty is taken from her, and she is accorded no other privileges than those allowed by the Mahomedan law. In the rural districts women enjoy much of their wonted freedom, but in the cities their seclusion and the use of the veil is strictlv enforced. The system of maU^ or "mariage de convenance'^ which was of universal prevalence^ together with public prostitution, under the Chinese rule, is now entirely suppressed, and any infraction of the new order is punished with exemplary severity. Though the regulation of society and the administration of the Govern- ment are based on the 8Aari*at, there are many national customs that remain unaffected by the trammels of that inelastic and unalterable code. For convenience sake, we will now notice the more characteristic traits of the people under separate heads in detail. Jfamo^tf.-— Amongst the higher classes and the peasantry, parents usually betroth their children in infancy, but the ceremony is not performed till they arrive at puberty, the age' of which varies from fourteen to sixteen years. Amongst grown up people the contract is one of mutual consent. In either case it is made binding by the niidA of the Mahomedan Skari'aL In the first case, in which the parents make the contract, the boy's parents fix the dower or maAr for the girl, and the parents of both provide the wedding clothes, ornaments, and household equipment for each respectively. When the marriage terms are agreed to, the girls' parents get a letter of permit from the governor of the city to the effect that '' such a one, the daughter of so and so, son of so and so, of such a place, marries with their consent such a one, the son of so and so, of such a place." The fee for this letter of permit and registry is one tantjf a =9\>o\xt sixpence, to the city governor. After this, the day is 6xed, and all the relations and friends assemble at the bride's house, where the nikdA is read by the priest, who receives as his fee from one to two or more tanga according to the rank and means of the parties; With the rich the wedding festivities are prolonged over three or four days, with music and feasts and games ; but with the poor the newly married couple go to the bridegroom's house the same night, and the festivities are confined to dancing and singing amongst the guests, and the disposal of a sbeep or two slaughtered for the feast. Amongst the common people, where the parties are grown up men and women, the bride merely gets a suit of clothes and such ornaments as she can persuade the suitor to give her, and, after the performance of the nikdk^ they feast a few friends and go home together, till they disagree and separate. Prior to the adoption of Islam by the Moghol, woman held a more exalted position amongst them, and in the relations of matrimony often exercised a supreme authority in the affairs of the household. This is indicated by the terms they applied to married woman, viz., Khdiin AghdyKkdnim^Begim^ '* mistress lady," ''my chief," *'my lord" respectively. Numer- ous instances are recorded in the history of the Emperor Babar and other Moghol chiefs, illustrative of the important position held by woman in the society of the early Moghol power. In these days the sex, it would seem, commanded a far greater deference and respect tnan it is accorded in the present day. lie effect of the Mussalman system of seclusion has been to deprive the wife of her just right and freedom, and the consequence has been to debase the noblest qualities and most prized virtues of the sex. That they are impatient of their treatment as mere chattels is evinced by their very frequent resort to the loophole of escape the law permits in divorce. The custom is extremely prevalent^ and by some women is systematically worked as a means of securing an independence and ( 85 ) provision for old tige. For example^ a woman will marry in Yarkand, and^ if diaeatisfied^ vnll, after a short time, quarrel and divorce her husband before the Cdsi, whose fee for the letter of divorce is onlj one ianpa^ By the act of divorce she gets rid of a master and profits by the amount of dowry, clothes, &c., she received on marrying him. The dowry is not a fixed sum, but varies according to terms agreed on prior to marriage. A woman, after divorcing her husband, cannot re-marry till the expiry of the ^iddat, which is a period of three months and ten days; but the divorced husband may re-marry after the expiry of forty days. This woman, after the days of Uddai, will marry another husband in Yarkand, producing the letter of divorce to show that she is free to do so. Him, too, she will divorce as she did the first, keeping the wedding clothes, outfit, and dowry. She now has two letters of divorce, and is thus enabled to evade the law and escape the restraint of the 'iddat, during which she would have to live upon her dowry, and commences a system of divorcing by which she secures an independence, and finally settles down with the man of her choice. And she works it thus: having divorced her second husband in Yarkand, she at once goes off to Yangi Hissar, and there contracts a marriage on the strength of the letter ot divorce of the first husband, the date of which shows that the ^idd(U is no bar. As the others, so him, too, she divorcee, and securing the dowry, moves on to Kdshghar, and there plays the same game, and gradually works her way back to her home with the accumulated profits of some eight or ten such transactions. tShouId she bear any children, they belong to the husband who is the father. If he so choose, he may resign his claim and give the child to the mother, and if not, he leaves the infant with the mother till weaned, and then takes possession of it. During this period, according to the decision of the Cdei, he pays the mother from one to four tan^ a month for the child's keep. Marriage, — The girl desired by a son is demanded for him by his father and mother, who visit the girPs family and ask that she may be given* Refusal is, as a matter of form, twice given, but the third time the girl's parents consent. When this happens, the father and mother of the youth present tbo girl with a ring and a pocket handkerchief. The parents of the youth are, on this occasion, given tea and sugar, and return home. The engagement thus formed may be continued for ten or twelve days, or even for six months, without marriage. Whenever the ceremony has been determined on, the bridegroom elect gets ready clothes for his bride: — ^a hat; a chogah; a kurpa; a tukin,a marjan, (bead ornament) ; a lahore (indoor hat) ; munchak (a thread of pearls) ; dandi (z^ra) (earrings) ; beUuzak (bracelets) ; sdch tatma (chignon for plaits of hair) ; toowic (charms) ; oitak (boots) ; jur&b (socks) ; tshtdn (pyjama) ; tshtan bag (pyjama strings) ; agabanoo (a cloth thrown over the shoulders) ; frinjee (an over- coat with large sleeves in wbich the arms are not inserted) ; koilik (a chemise). The trousseau prepared as above is conveyed by the bridegroom, with a sheep, rice, and sheep's fat, to the house of the bride and presented to her parents ; on this occasion he is accompanied by his father and mother and immediate rslatives, who remain as guests in the bride's house for three days, during which feasting and dancing and singing go on at the expense of the girl's parents. On the fourth day the girl's parents present the bridegroom with an entire suit of clothing, boots, &c. The bride then selects a man of their acquaintance as Padr Wakeel (Toyata) (Marriage Father). This is Arranged as follows: Two grey beards of the party approach the girl and ask her whom she selects as her Toyata, ^hen she names an individual. The mullah then arranges with the Toyata and the dowry is fixed and marriage settlement. The mullah then asks the bridegroom if the settlement is agreed to. When this is announced to the assembled relatives they shout mubarik. This is done with the reading of the kulmah, and thus completes the marriage ceremony. The woman cannot be taken from one city to another without her consent : this is agreed to by the husband, being demanded by the Toyata; he further declares that he will not chastise her without fault ; that he will not take another wife without her consent; that for six months after marriage he will not undertake a journey. If he then starts en a journey, that he will advance a subsistence allowance of six months ; that he will allow bis wife free interooorse with her father and mother and near relations. ( 86 ) After the agreement is given, water and salt are produced, and the salt is dissolved in a small oop. The parents of the contracting parties then dip bread into the salt water. It is a point of emulation between the bride and bridegroom's representatives to first dip the bread into the cup ; if the bride's father is first successf al, and pats the saturated bread into the daughter's mouthy it is considered a good omen by the bridegroom. The wife is then conveyed to the husband's house. The children and others of the mobulla, if it is in the city, put a rope across the road and make a pretence of stopping the party ; they are, however, bribed with a present to let the procession pass. The wife is called for two or three months Kelim^ and the husband Kiayo : '' the bride and bridegroom" daring the first few months are not called by their proper names. As the bride leaves her father's house it is considered proper for the relations to weep« "W^en she reaches the house of the bridegroom, before she enters in, a carpet or felt is first put outside the door on which she is seated, and a fire is lighted, and women of the husband's family, who are respectable matrons, hold the four corners of the felt or carpet upon which the bride is seated, and carry her round the fire three times, after which she is taken into the house across the threshold. The female relatives (usually unmarried) who have accompanied her, remain with her for three days in the house of the bridegoom (her own house). After the three months she ceases to be called Eelim, and goes by the name of Chaukan until she becomes pregnant, when she is called Jewan, and at this period the fact of her pregnancy is celebrated by feasting and singing with her female acquaintances ; at the same time , she puts on the bands in front of her dress, which mark the mother, retaining them henceforward ; these are four short crose-bars fastened to the dress where it closes over the bosom ; they are either green or red as long as the husband is living, and daring widowhood are covered with black. jBif^i.— Is celebrated by a feast to the neighbours and friends in the case of a boy, but no demonstration is made for the birth of a girl. It is popularly believed, or stated at least, that two girls are born to one boy in this country, and certainly the very apparent preponderance in numbers of women which attracts the traveller's notice supports the assertion. There are no midwives in the country. The woman's mother or the neighbour women attend and do all the necessary service. The navel string is turned up to the forehead, and cut off at that length ; wrapped in cotton wool, coiled on the belly, and there secured by a band ; it is anointed daily with melted cow's fat, and falls off on the seventh or eighth day. Some take the skin of the sheep slaughtered for the feast to celebrate the event, and rubbing a mixture of one part kackur and twp parts turmeric, finelv powdered, on its inner surface, spread it whilst yet warm over the mother's back and belly, and keep it on for a night and day before removal. The skin contracts very firmly and, it is said, speedily restores the natural slim form. There is no music or dancing or rejoicing on the occasion of a birth as in India. The rich usually employ a wet nurse to suckle the child. The mother remains in seclusion till the fortieth day, on which she takes a bath and puts on new clothes, and receiyes her guests and friends at an entertainment. On this day the child is named, sometimes without ceremony, bat usually the astrologer is called in to cast its horoscope and foretell its future. The child is on this day rolled up in swaddling bands, and for the first time put in the cradle which is to be its home till weaned. The cradle or becAue is a wood frame on rocking boards, is covered with a curtain canopy, and spread with a mattress, in the centre of which is a hole for the skuMue. This is a wooden urinal, exactly like a common tobacco pipe ; the bowl is adjusted above — it is wider for girls-^and the tube passes Yertioally down through the hole. It effectually keeps the bedding dry, and is of universal use. Strings of them are exposed for sale in the bazars. Birth and anwarih.'^A new-bom child, after being washed, &c., has a lump of sugar put into its month. The mother keeps the child near her for 7 days, but on the 8th day it is taken ( 87 ) from her, excepting at the time of sackling. As soon after Urth as is possible, a mullah is called in to whisper the azan into the child's ear. With a son, after 40 days, whatever hair may have grown is remoyed from the head. The hair 19 weighed and a corresponding weight of silver is given to the naie (barber). After this a feast is given to relatives. Until the boy is mature, he is called Ogul Bala; similarly a girl is called Kiz Bala. He is then called Yiggit, and the girl, Chaukan. All children are sent to school to the moUah at the age of 4 or 5. After leaving school a boy is osually apprenticed to a trade. During the time of his apprenticeship, he is clothed and fed by his master. When he has mastered the trade, his parents present the master with an entire suit of clothes, and a feast is given to the irade^ in whoee presence the master is clothed. The master presents the pupil on this occasion with a set of working tools used in his particular trade, and henceforward he starts a shop of hia own. Cradlb Sonea. Ov«r boys. Yating BuUum, - • Sleep my babe. Yating BuUum, » • Sleep my babe. Khan Bulling Bnllum, « A Khan you shall become. Beg Bulling Bnllum, * - A Beg most sure shall be. Yurtunieggasi Bulling Bnllum, • Broad lands possess and wealth besides my babe. Over ffirh. Khanim Pudsha^ Bulling Bullum • Spouse of King and baby mine. Aiduk Yeshnub, Bulling Bullum - Fairy moonlight I baby mine. Yating Bullum 1 » Sleep my babe. drcumcmon. — This rite is considered one of the most important of the /^ five foundations'^ of Islam, and its observance is now encouraged with a revival of the ceremonies which fell into neglect onder the Chinese. The age for its performance varies between the second and eighth or tenth year, and the day is fixed. after consulting the stars and a book of lucky days and omens, in which every day of every month has its special prognostic qualities. The operation is performed by the barber or Sdtirdck {SarlardsA) in the presence of the assembled women of the family, and neighbours and friends. The occasion is celebrated with a feast. Amongst the wealthy it is prolonged to two or three days, with music, dancing and games, and the distribu- tion of largess to the poor and priests. On the conclusion of the feast, the friends present eggs and clothes for the boy, who is attended till the wound is healed by the barber. About the tenth or twelfth day, when this occurs, the boy is bathed and dressed, the barber is dismissed with his fee according to the means of the parents, generally two to four tanga, and the beggars and priests are collected for a feast. Education. — When eight or ten years old, children are sent to school. Boys and girls together are seated closely packed on forms, of which the back of one forms the desk for the form behind it. The boys are all on one side of the room, and the girls on the other, and between is an alley, at the top of which is the seat of the teacher. The children are taught the creed and prayers from books set before them, and all gabble out their lessons with constant repetition and great volubility, and the din produced is confusing. There are several of these schools in each city, and one or more in all the market- towns of the rural settlements. The school, or maktab^ is a low, ill-ventilated room, generally under the upper story of some private house, which is conveniently situated near a crowded thoronghfare, and some of them are amongst the shops in the bazar. Girls older than ten or twelve years don't attend, but boys are not limited to age. They are taught reading and writing, and use as text-books the Oulistan of S&di, and the Sikandar Nama amongst others of less reputation. The pupils are all day scholars ( 88 ) and pay the teacher from half a tanga to a tanga a month. Education ia not compalaoryy bat a certain coercion ia exercised on the parents to make them eend their children to school. For the higher forms of education, as it is by the Mahommedan standard, the pupils go from the iiaktab, to the Madraaa or college. Here they study theology, law, medicine, poetry and history, with writing and accounts. Physics are unknown, and altogether the standard of knowledge is very inferior. Much too great importance is attached to theology and meta* physics, to the neglect of more practically useful studies. There are seyeral colleges in each city, and all the shrines and more sacred tombs in the country have either a college or a school attached to them. The colleges are charitable foundations which have been established at diflferent periods by pious individuals, and are supported by grants of rent-free land. Under tiie Amir's rule, all these establishments have been restored to their original prosperity, and many which had fallen to decay have been entirely rebuilt and enlarged. Most of them have cloisters, with accommodation for from twenty to eighty students or more, and a chapel and hospice are attached to each, with a considerable establishment of priests, teachers, and servitors. In all of them the teaching is strictly that of Islam, to the exclusion of everything not allowed by the SharVat or unprovided for in the AadUA, and they are all under the special patronage of the Amir, who from time to time visits some of the more important one?, and on all occasions of public rejoicing or festivity distributes bounty to the establishments and resident scholars. Games and AmusemenU, — Those played by young people are tfc»rcilcfe,=''wrestling/' ^'romps;^' £<{i-j9ar^,='^ kite-flying/' Jdueca warstaridi,=i" msLrhles;'* iT^ait/ar o^iin<^i,=*^pitch-and-toss'^ into a hole with walnuts or pice ; Uzuc oydnM,:=:" knuckle bones,^' dice playing with four bones ; Top chaidng,^^* balUand-baf' or '* rounders,^' in which the player is put out by a catch, and has to go out and carry in the winner on his back ; and Tushc Anasi BdldH,s='^ mother and children in the hole,'' a sort of tip-cat played with bat and ball from a little pit. Those played by grown-up people are SAatranj, chess ; takhna, draughts ; kdgkaz^oydndi^ cards, called kaphi by the Khitay ; Tukhm ckicrHy cracking eggs by tapping small ends together for wager; Dah chtn oydndi, gymnastics, athletics, &c., by professionals. Other amusements are iiip^flr-o^rf»rff,="piweon-flying;" Tuki or Coehcdr ot Ktklik'it?arstar^i, = *'ooc\i or ram," or ^^partridge-fighting." There are besides other sports and exercises, such ^ single-stick, cudgel- ling, fencing, wrestling, archery, &c., but they are only practised by professionals of Chinese or Kalmyk race who are now enlisted in the Amir's army. Amongst the athletic exercises occasion- ally indulged in by the troops are uiakf a sort of chevy chase on horseback to gain possession of a slaughtered lamb carried away by an acknowledged champion, by pursuit and snatching from his lap ; and i/liltic cAicdi,=i^^ tAtget practice,'' loading and firing on horseback at a cap stuck on a stake, whilst at full gallop. The more refined amusements in which both sexes meet for society are tea-parties and musical concerts and dances, each of which is conducted with the observance of much ceremony and etiquette, according to rules and conventionalities appropriate to each. The dances are performed by women only, and not in public ; only in the presence of inyited guests, and are conducted with proper decorum. The musical concerts are performed by professional artists and singers, and the principal instruments used are the guitar; a sort of harp or violin called cdnun; a sort of violin called rabdb; the flageolet; the cymbal; the triangle; and the tambour and the trombone. The musician or naghmdchl does not play in public, only at private houses to which he is called to grace an entertainment. There is a class of mendicant minstrels and actors who go about the streets, and wander from place to place to make a living. They are of two distinct orders, viz., the calandar or darvesk, and the bdceU, The two first, are religious beggars and vagabonds, and go about in companies of five or six. They sing and dance and dress in a grotesque fashion, and affect a demented character, with dishevelled hair and patched garments, (»f ten covered with a cape of some wild animals' skin, such as of the tiger, bear, leopard, or wolf. They always carry a staff topped with a tuft of fdk'tail hair, or an iron mace on which is fixed a string of steel rings. This they jingle in keeping time with their vociferous songs and dances of gesticulation. The bdeeki is a musician, conjuror, improvisators, and actor. He professes acquaintance with the world of spirits, and glibly calls on Michael and all the angels who throw him into a cataleptic atat^ and the spectators are persuaded into the belief that he does all sorts of marvels. ( 89 ) Etiquette, — Ceremonj is an importaDt featare of EL&shghar sooietj^ and its forms ara observed with punctiliousDess oa the most trivial occasions, fiespeci and obedience to parents and superiors is held to rank in the first place of doty. The young and inferiors always stand in a respectfal and submissive attitude^ with the bead bowed and bands folded in front, at a distance from their superiors^ and always address them with the word tac^ir^' fault/' and equivalent in ose to our " Sir/' Children never take the names of their parents so long as they are alive, but speak of them as Atdm or Andm — '' my father" or ^' my mother/' On receiving any attention or favour^ the recipient carries the right hand to the heart and forehead, and with a bow says, " oiAi^ulla-^*' God's love/' or he takes the thing presented and raises it to his eyes with the same gesture and expression ; or if the gift is not placed in his hands he, if seated, rises and with a comprehensive sweep of the arms strokes his beard, either real or more frequently imaginary. When seated at an entertainment this ceremony is gone through on each occasion that he is addressed by a superior, or is handed a morsel from the ^* table cloth/' and one may be seen constantly getting up and down from and on to his heels in acknowledgment of civilities and commands from a superior. In matters of duty, commands are received standing, and acknowledged by bending on one knee, sweeping. the arms in a circle to stroke the beard, and with the vtotAb yaihiii ta€9ir=*' Very good Sir." The salutation on meeting is Sdlam^dlaiiumss" Peace be to you/' with a low bow, and the hands folded across the stomach. The reply is a'laiJbim as-Mldm^" And to you be peace." A friend passing another on the road says Hirmdng-^*^ Be not fatigued /' and the other replies ToUboUHn — '' may you have the way/' or '* may your way prosper," On parting in the streets, friends bow politely several times with polite expressions for each other's welfare. Visitors are received with more or less ceremony, according to rank, either at the outer gate, or in the court, or at the threshold, and conducted to their seats by the host. After the mutual health enquiries, either tea or the dasiurikwdn is invariably brought in, and to omit both is considered a mark of disrespect. The dasCurihwdn^'*' Tvnj of ceremony," varies according to the rank and state of the visitor, and may comprise anything from two or three trays of dry fruits and biscuits, to two or three hundred trays and an elegant and varied dinner. It is customary for the host to help his honored guest to the first morsel with a Bismillah^^ *'In the name of God," and then the others help themselves. At the conclusion, the sign for the removal of the cloth is a simultaneous move to rise, with a sweeping stroke of the beard and sonorous Allahu J ibar^'" God is most Great" by all the quests. The table-cloth is a long sheet of printed cotton, or figured silk, and is spread on the floor. The recipient of a letter from the king or other superior takes it in both hands, and raises it to the heart and forehead before reading. After reading he faces the direction whence it came, and pressing it to his lips and eyes places it securely in the folds of his turban or in his cap. Women courtesy by bending the knees, and bowing low with the hands folded in front. Oeeupatiani.^^There are no restrictions of caste as in India to fetter either sex in the choice of a means of livelihood. The father may be a blacksmith and the son a tailor ; the mother may keep a shop, and the daughter may be a sempstress. In Yarkaud we found many of the grocers and bakers shops kept by women ; and I was told some of them were sole mistresses, and owned the shops in their own right, free from the control of thu husband. The chief occupations of the women are spinning, lace- work, and embroidery, and in the rural districts they sometimes take part in the field labours of harvesting, and in caring for the cattle at home. The occupations of the men include all the ordinary handicrafts, special manufactures, trade, accounts, &c., &c. Amongst the Kirghiz, however, the women do all the weaving, carpet and felt-making, &c., as well as looking after the cattle and domestic arrangements. Women. — The number of women in K&hghar, and the facilities of marriage and divorce, as well as the absence of absolute poverty throughout the country, mitigate the hardships, and obviate the crimes which follow on the adoption of a plurality of wives. The expense of marriage consists in the provision of marriage garments by the husband; these vary in quality according to the wealth of the man; a poor man may, however, content himself with the presentation of a hat and a pair of boots, costing no more than 10 tangas. ( 90 ) The easi's fee amoaDts to no more than one tanga, though much lar^rer sams are paid hf those who can aflford it. The ceremonial of marriage is given in detail elsewhere ; it may be curtailed to the reading of the nika by the cazi^ in the presence of three or foor witnesses. There appears to be no difficalty attending marriage between men and women of different ranks in life; nor does a woman who has been the wife of a rich man, and has obtained a divorce, object to marriage with a man of small means. Two wives represent the average number; but the limit of foor is not even strictly adhered to. The ceremony of divorce amounts to no more than the affixing of the cazi's seal to the talaknamas^ which are kept one by the man, and one by the woman, in proof of their release from the marriage tie. The divorce may be with mutual consent, or by the man, who declares his intention before the cazi. By the woman, the discharge may be obtained as follows : she declares her intention publicly to her husband three times of leaving his house; if he is witling, or if he hastily says ''go'' three times^ the woman then goes to the cazi and claims dismissal, on which the cazi calls for the husband and enquires of him whether he has given her her divorce. A more simple method for the wife to adopt is to present herself before the cazi weepingj and taking off the shoes (which come over the feet of her boots) to place them turned over before the cazi. This is taken to mean an accusation against the husband of his having committed an unnatural offence against her ; no other evidence is required, the man is sent for and the talaknamas are ordered. The smallest fee on a divorce is half a tanga. It is a matter of pride with many women to have been the wife of several husbands; thisj howeverj may be said to be chiefly the fashion with a certain set of women in the towns : the general population having more settled homes than such customs imply. After divorce the children are usually divided, the boys going with the father, and the daughters with the mother. Subsistence may be ordered for the wife if she be pregnant, or is suckling a child, or a present may be made by the husband, or a fixed sum be paid down. Marriage is possible to the woman three months after the divorce. These rules are those of the Shariat ; also, if a husband divorce his wife, and regret having done so, so as to seek to marry her again, he cannot do so without her having contracted another marriage. The above customs imply more than the usual freedom allowed to women in Mahomedan countries being the role, and, in Kdshghar, women mix freely in the daily life of their husbands, and are to be seen on all occasions sharing in their pursuits, for the most part unveiled, except when some representative of authority is passing. They are admirable riders, being as familiar with the saddle as the men. Dress and Ornaments, — Owing to the nature of the climate, the summer and winter costume differ in proportion to the opposite extremes of the seasons. In the former it consists of light gauze materials, or silks of very bright and staring colours for the rich, and of common white cotton cloth of home-manufacture for the poor* In winter it consists of warm furs^ and padded silks for the rich, and of sheepskin cloaks and padded cotton robes, usually dyed of a drab or ash grey colour, for the poor. All classes, and both sexes wear boots, which in winter are lined with a casing of thick felt, and all, too, put on two, three, or up to six robes and trowsers one over the other. Men in travelling wear loose, baggy overalls of buff leather called sHm» Sometimes the robes are tucked into the skim, like a shirt into the trowsers, and the effect is provocative of merriment to the stranger, though it is surprising how the arrange* ment frees the rotund and ungainly forms from the encumbrance of their multifarious flowing robes. The dress of the men consists of the following oostumes, biic, a quilted cap or bonnet, generally of silk material, or embroidered or printed cotton ; bdsMic, a hood with long lappets worn in travelling, generally of woollen material, sometimes of fur or sheepskin ; dopa, an embroidered skull-cap, quilted and padded, of silk or printed cotton ; ta^ae, a fur cap, generally of lamb's fleece, edged with otter or other fur, and sometimes covered with velvet or brocade ; dastdr, a shawl turban, only worn by the wealthy and nobility ; salla a muslin turban of pure white, only worn by the priesthood and soldiers and officers of Government; sarpeei, an ordinary turban worn by merchants clerks, &;c. The common people and peasantry all wear the Tartar cap, called talpae; and it is said, are prohibited from wearing the turban; bfmlai ( 91 ) a shirt, looee in body and sleeves, usually of coarse cotton ; lambdl, trowsers loose and ba^^y^ generally of cotton, and sometimes padded and quilted ; uhtdn, trowsers of a different material, such as silk or wool ; tambdl hagka, tbe trowsers- band round the waist; shimj oYerall trowsers, loose and bacrgy, generally of buff leather, embroidered with silk and edged below with fur usually lined with printed cotton, and open for six inches on the outside of each leg below ; otahj boot reaching to the knee, and of European pattern ; mdsd, goloshes or slippers worn over foot of boot in wet weather, left at the door on entering the house ; kepiai, (kafsh) a common shoe ; J^dyUig. gloves of worsted or fur; dabiii, fur over-boot; pdypdi, a ftlt stocking worn inside the boot; ehapan, a loose long robe, open in front, with long sleeves, four or five sometimes worn one over other; ton, a loose over-cloak. This and the preceding are usually of silk or printed cotton in bright colours and staring patterns; belwagh^ waist- band or sash; juba, fur coat, mostly of sheepskin. Soldiers wear besides the ^^mar, a leather waist-belt; to it are attached a multitude of the paraphernalia of their arms; they are collectively styled yarde, and comprise powder-bag, tinder-box, shot-bag, flint-and-steel case, knife, hammer, priming pin, &c., &;c. The dress of the women consists of the following; btie, quilted cap, edged with fur; ard biicy a high bonnet of mitre shape, usually of silk, and ornamented with a tassel and embroidery ; ialpaCf fur cap or hat of sheepskin covered with gold brocade, and edged all round with a deep border of otter fur; salia, a muslin turban folded into the shape ofa high cap or hat, with the end han^ring behind, or over one shoulder; chumbal and cAimal, different kinds of veil: they are square, and about fourteen inches each way, and are worn tied round the hat : they are mostly white, of wide lattice pattern, but some are black and of horse hair, just like the texture of a sieve; kdmlak, shirt, or loose shiit, of cotton or silk; tambdl, trowsers, loose and baggy; tambdl pdyeAd, leggings, embroidered and edged with fur, worn attached to the trowsers so as to show below the upper robes ; eiapan, a loose frock, open in front ; lechakj a scarf or shawl of muslin or light gauze worn over other clothes without passing the arms through the nileeves ; dc-^eja, a mantle of white muslin like the last. These two are worn by young married women, who are called chauedn till they become matrons, when they are called juwdn, and wear by way of distinction the paraja, an over-cloak which has four bars of braid on the breast. Unmarried girls are called ayghaehi, and dress as the chauedn, Otnky boot, similar to that worn by men; iirm-otak, a shorter high-heeled boot, ornamented with gold and silk embroidery; ormadaotak, another kind of ornamented boot; i' '. ' ' ' • / / ( 9B ) make ; between the two is the thickness of the wsIL Above the door and windowj there as sometimes a small lattice window covered with paper in winterj and open in summer. Few houses have a well in the ooart or garden, hot each house has it oess«pit, over which is built the privy. None of the houses are vaised roach above the level of the ground, and in most the lower rooms are sunk a little below the level of the ground. It is usual to lay the foundations upon a layer of rolled stones from the river beds; over these is spread a layer of matting, and then the clay wall is built upon it, eitiier with bricks or in forms between boards. In their lines and angles most houses are superior to. those of the same dass of people in India ; but in their surroundings, and the utter neglect of conservancy, they are no ways different. * Such are the main characters of the lUUhghar dwellings, which are everywhere roofed with poplar beams and rafters, overlaid with a layer of plasteied earth spread upon matting. They are warmed with the fire-plaoee mentioned, or, as is the case in most of the better houses, the sleeping-room is provided with a sandal. This is a square space enclosed by low walls two feet high ; in its centre is a round flat-topped pillar of the same height ; from this pillar to the walls pass a series of boards which form a floor above the enclosed space ; they are remov- able, and are now and again taken off to prepare the sandal for use; this is done by spreading its floor three or four inches deep with dry horse^lung, and setting it on fire to smoulder through the night ; the boards are replaced, and the beddhig spread on the floor, which is shared by the wbeie family. The king^s palace, and those of the city governors, with other public buildings which have been erected since the Amir's accession to the Government, are of a different character, and in the superiority of their struotare and general plan, more resemble the houses of the Persian nobility than anything I can compare them to. They are not Indian and they are not European, nor are they Chinese, but they may be on the Khokand model. Zas^fk^^.^The language of the people of Eishghar is the Uighdr dialect of Turki. It is spoken with greater or less difference of idiom and patois in the several divisions of the country, and that of Aksu is said to be the purest In the appendix will be found a vocabulary of the dialect spoken in Tarkand. Formerly the language was written in a character peculiar to itself, but the Arabic letters have long since displaoed it, and none of the old books are now to be met with. The literature of the country is very little known, though some poetical and historical works which have been examined by European savam^, prove, by the purity and perspicuity of style, that the language in the palmy days of the Uighur empire must have attained a high degree of culture — no doubt as one consequence of the Islam supremacy and the contact with Persian civilization. I have no practical knowledge, however, of the sobject, and our opportunities in the country were not such as to favour research in this direction. Oovemmeni of ike cowi^fy.* Under the Chinese rule Eashghar was governed as a non-> regulation province by a Jdoig jung or Viceroy, whose capital was at Ila or Khiilja. He h^d the country by a purely military occupation to maintain order, realise the revenue, and protect trade, and left the internal administration of the government-in the hands of Musslman natives of the country, who received their appointments from himself, subject to confirmation from Fekin ; and were in all cases immediately subordinate and responsible to superior oflScers of the ruling race who were, for the higher grades, appointed direct from Pekin. The system bears some points of resemblance to that of our own in India — at least so finr as conoems the administrative and executive offices. Thus the Viceroy of Ila appointed over each of the two provinces of his government a Khdkan or Khdn Ambdl (or as it is written Am6dm)f or Lieutenant-Governor, That of Zungbir was styled Onff Ambdl, or Lieutenant* Governor of the Right, and that of E&hghar, 8dl Ambdlf or Lieutenant-Governor of the Left. The latter resided at Tarkand, as the seat of government and capital of the province. In him was vested the entire administration of the country, and his authority was supreme except in matters connected with foreign policy, or in questions which requirea the sanction of the Pekin or Home Government through the Ila Vicerov. He resided in a palace in the Yangishahr of Yarkand with his officers of state, and a special body-guard of Khitay troops. t ( 96 ) His administrative staff consisted of a Kichik Ambdn, ^' Little Governor" or Deputy Governor^ a sort of Private and Foreign Secretary combined^ who was the medium of communication for all the next subordinate ranks ; a lan^ Tdf Ddlaff, *^ Chief Military Commandant/' who bad the control of all the troops in the country ; a Tdng Pang Ddidy^ or *^ Cbief Civil Administrator/' who superintended the trade, post, and intelligence departments ; the Sang Ddkty, '^ Chief Finance Minister/' who supervised the revenue returns, trade imports, and municipal taxes ; and Kk6b6g Ddidg, *' Chief Judicial Administrator/' with whom rested the control of the Law Department; eases affecting only Ehitay subjects he settled himself, but those occurring between Musalman and Khitay he referred, in conjunction with the Wdng^ for the decision of the Kban Amban. Each of these Ldl6^ or ** chiefs" had under him a OkaUdf or '' Deputy/' who really did all the work, and brought it in each case to his Ddldf for con- firmation ; and each OhaldAg had under him a staff of subordinates, such as messengers, writers, policemen, &c., whose cbief was called Dogkobeg. A similar staff formed the Government establishment under an Ambdn in each division of the province, and each of those divisional Ambdn reported direct to the Khdn Ambdm at Yarkand. The divisional Ambans always resided at the chief city or capital town of their respective divisions, in a separate citiadel called Yangishahr, which was held by the Khitay troops, under the command of a Dilay, who was next in rank to the Amb&n. The Ddldg commandants were of different ranks, distingniahed by the colour of the balls on their hats, and in the larger garrisons, as those of Yarkand and Kasbghar, there were two or three of them. The highest was called Ckangtdy Ddldj/^ and the next in order Khd^ and lidy and Ti^ &e. The Mi DdUg held command of the Trengani troops. The second in command of these Ddldy was called Okalddy^ and under him were the Zfinggd or Captain {Jizbdiki), tlie Konyd, or Lieutenant (Pinjdbdski) j the Linyd or Serjeant {Onbdaki^f and the Ckirik, or Private (JigiC). These were the principal Chinese oflScers, and all the higher grades were changed every two or three years for new incumbents, sent either from Ila, or from Pekin. The Musalman ofiBoers held their appointments at the option of the Khan Amban who usually received heavy bribes from time to time to retain them in their posts, though in the first place, the highest grades were always appointed from Ila, and the oflSoer selected was always a native of some other city than that in which he held office ; thus a native of Aksd would be sent to Khutan, one of Turfan to Tarkand, and so on. The highest rank was called Hdkim Beg, or ** Governor Commandant/' and corresponded with that of the divisional Ambdn. The Chinese called this officer Wdng or *^ chief/' He carried out the details of Government over the Musalman subjects of the division ; he ruled and was responsible directly to the Ambdn for the maintenance of order, collection of the revenue, and protection of the frontier. He had no authority whatever over Khitay or Kalmak subjects, and very little over the foreign Musalmans, as will be presently seen, and was in all respects subordinate to the Ambdn. The Wdng, Commissioner of Division, resided in a palace inside the city or town, with a considerable staff of officials attached to his court, and a guard of Khitay troops, under a Zdngya, which was periodically relieved from the Tangishahr. He had a " Deputy Commissioner" called Ukikdgkdd, who superintended the details of the Municipal Government, and reported direct to the Wdng. The executive staff comprised a number of officers who acted under a chief called Beg, There was a Beg or *' Assistant Commissioner" appointed to the charge of each district of the division, and bis duties were, to maintain order, keep the roads, and collect the revenue. His staff comprised a Cati ur "judge," a Zakdtoki, or ** customs officer," a Jebacki or '' revenue collector," together with a treasurer, secretary, and a number of messengers and policemen, and in certain localities a guard of ^Lhitay troops under a Zungyd or Linyd according to its strength. The subordinate Musalman officials had no dealings with the Khitay, who were under officers of their own nation ; nor had the Khitay officials any direct dealings with the Musalmans. The latter were entirely governed by their own Hdkim Beg or ITdng, who decided their law-suits anongst themselves on his own authority. But cases affecting both Musalman and Khitay were adjudicated conjointly by the Wdng and Khobdy Ddldg, or referred for final decision to the Ambdn. The chief duty of the Wdng, so far as the Chinese were ( 97 ) eoncernedi was the ooUeotion of the reveoae and costoms duties and trade taxes; and so long as these were panetaally paid, he was very little interfered with ; unless indeed his exactions and irregularities threatened to produce riot and revolt, in which case he was deposed and sent elsewhere to buy himself into office to the profit of some other Ambdn. The Wdng and his Isiiidgidii, and the Beg of each district, held in addition to tbeir salaries, each of them, in proportion to rank, certain estates in fief from the . Ila Viceroy. Some of these were of considerable extent and value, and in the aggregate formed no trifling portion of some of the divisions. On the conquest of the coontry by the Amir, all these feudal tenures escheated to him, and he has distributed them on the same terms amongst his adherents and deserving officers from Ehokand. In each of the western cities to which the Chinese Government had granted trade privileges in favor of the Musalmans of Khokand, there grew up colonies of emigrants, and merchant settlers from Andijan. These, as they grew in numbers and importance, formed a distinct community governed by a chief of their own nationality. He was called AksakM^ and got his appointment on lease from the Kb4n of ^Khokand, to whom he paid a sum annually in return for the revenue he collected from the Andijan subjects. These foreigners in the details of their government as citizens were under the authority of the Wang through their Aisaidt, who was subordinate to him ; but in all matters of revenue and trade they were solely under their Akiaidl who was consul on the part of the Kbokand Kh&n. The Andijan colony in each city had a separate Aisaidt, and each iiarmed his post separately from the Kbokand Khan, but all were subordinate in authority and rank to a chief consul, or Ckaung Aksaidl, who had his head- quarters at Kashghar, This system of double government under a third supervisor led to a succession of disagreements between the Aksak&ls and the W4ngs in the division of their authority ; whilst the weak measures adopted by the Chinese to check such irregularities only increased the arrog^ce of the foreigners, and gradually took tbem more and more out of the control of the W&ngs, till in the end they were constantly rebelling, and fiually acknowledged no authority but that of their Aksakil The other foreign settlers in the country, as the Badakhshi and Kashmiri of Yarkand, were similarly governed by an AhalM of their own nationality, and the Badakhshi enjoyed the same privileges as the Andijani ; but the Kashmiri having no trade relations with the Chinese Government, paid their taxes through their Aisakdl direct to the W&ng. The fixed taxes were the 'uiAr or " tithe^' of land produce, and the $aidl or fortieth of live-stock and merchandise ; there were, besides, a tax of two to seven or eight tanga per iandb on garden produce, such as v^etables, fruits, drugs, &c.,and a tax on cott-on^ both raw and manufactured; this was usually levied in kind from the grower and weaver at a varying rate according to quality ; another was the house-tax or iidm dylio^ generally one tanga per month, but in the time of the Tangani revolt it was raised to four tanga to supply the deficiency caused by non- receipt of treasure from Ila for the pay of the troops. These were the recognised taxes, but there were many others, such as on fuel brought for sale to market, on milch kine kept in the city, &c. ; and they proved a ready means of oppre6sion and a prolific source of that discontent which left the rulers without a single helping hand, or sympathising hegxt, in the hour of their distress and destruction. 6i>vernment of Kdtigkar under tie Amir. — The events connected with the conquest of the country by its present ruler have been detailed in the historical sketch. It remains now to state what is known regarding the ruler himself, and to describe briefly the nature of the Government under which he holds the country. This may be done under separate heads as hereunder follows :— Tie King. — Amir Muhammad Yikub Kb4n, was born at Piskat near Taskand in 1285 H., =1820 A.D. His mother was the sister of Shekh Nizamnddin Kas(i of Piskat, and the second wife of Pur Muhammad Mir^a of Dihbid near Samarcand. Pur Muhammad is also called Muhammad Latif, and is said to be of Tymur lineage. His family was originally settled in Karatakin on the borders of Badakhshan, but moved to Dihbid k ( 98 ) at the time of the Uzbak invasion, where he was born. In the time of Mahammad Ali Kbin of EJbiokand^ he emigrat«^ to Khojand, and there entered a college to stady for the charob. After some years he was appointed to the office of Kasi at Karamma, and whilst there married a lady of the place^ by whom he had a son named Mahammad Arif. He then removed to Fiskat, and there married the mother of Amir Mahammad Y4ktib Eh&n. Mahammad Arif is BOW residing at K&shghar with the. rank of lbe$abaf in the court of his half«brother. About four years ago he was sent to govem the district of Sarigh Kul, but was soon recalled and has remained unemployed ever since. The Amir has also two sisters, one of whom was married to Nar Muhammad Kh&n, the Governor of Tashkand, who then got his brother-in-law appointed to the charge of Akmasjid, with the rank of Koshbegi. At this place the Amir married a Eapchak lady of Jnelik, and she bore him his eldest son, Beg Kali Beg, or Beg Bacha, as he is oalled, in 1265 H.=1848 A.D. The Amir was brought up in his native village; and instead of following the religious calling of his father, he was led away by the stirring events of the times, and the disordered state of the country, to seek his fortunes at the capital. And there we find him at the age of twenty-five years as a Mahram or ** court chamberlain,'' an office of trust, in the service of the youthful Khudayar Kh&n, on his elevation to the throne of Ehokand in 1845 by the Eapchak chief, Musalman Euli It was shortly after this that Nar Muhammad, the Eapchak Governor of Tashkand, married his sister, and through his influence with the regent Mussal- man Euli, obtained for the Makram promotion to the rank of Kaibegi, or "lord of the family,'' and the office of Governor at Akmasjid. The KoMhbejfi held this post for five or six years, till the capture of the fort by the Russians in August 1853, and he was soon after appointed Mir or '^ obief of the Eiiaochi fort. In 1858 his patron, Musalman Euli, was executed by Ehudayar in a very barbarous manner. This act roused the hostility of the Eapchak and Eirghiz against the Ehin ; and espousing the cause of his elder brother, they drove Ehudayar from the country, and set Mullah Eh4n on the throne at Ehokand. Amongst the most active of the supporters of the new Eh£n was the Mir of Eiiaochi ; and for his services he was raised to the rank of SlaAdwat or *^ intendant," and attached to the court. Shortly after, however, he was appointed Governor of the frontier fort of Euramma, with the rank, once more, of Eoshbegi. Prom this, at the end of 1860, he was transferred with Ean&'at Shah, the Ndpb ot Ehokand, to Tashkand to watch the Russians who were advancing upon Turkistan. Whilst he was on this frontier, Mullah Eh&n was assassinated in bia bed by a plot of the nobles, and Ehudayar hearing the news, at once issued from his retreat at Jizzak, and hastened to secure Tashkand. On arrival there he was welcomed and set on the throne as Ehin by the Ko%kbegi and Ndgb, and for this service Ehudayar retained Yikdb Beg in his post as Governor of Euramma fort. In the meantime Mullah Alim Euli, Eirghiz of Osh, had set Shah Murad Ehin, grandson of Sher Ali Ehin, on the throne at Ehokand, and marched with him against Ehudayar at Tashkand. On their approach, Tikub Beg left Ehudayar, and, joining Alim Euli, retired with him to Euramma, there to equip and organise their forces. From this tbey act out and besieged Ehudayar in Tashkand ; but after a month of desultory skirmishing, failing to make any progress, they retreated to Ehokand. From this shortly afterwards, Alim Euli sent Yaktib Beg to hold Ehujand, which was threatened by Ehudayar and his allies from Bukh&ri. On their approach, Yiklib Beg surrendered his charge, retired to Bukhiri with the returning army, and resided there some time as a di or '^ noble" attached to the court of the Amir. In 1863 the Amir Muzafiaruddin of Bukhiri marched to Ehokand to set his new brother* in-law, Ehudayar, on the throne there against the usurper Alim Culi, and Yikdb Beg returned with bis army to the scene of his former activity. On the departure of the Bukfairi troops, Yiktib Beg and some other leading men joined Alim Euli who, having executed Sultan Murid, had set up Syad Sultan as Ehin. This rival Ehin at once restored Yikdb Beg to his former rank and office, and sent him to hold the fort of Euramma i and shortly afterwards he joined his benefactor with his contingent to aid in the capture of Ehujand. I 1 ^^ 19. — Soldiers from Kashghar. ^/ >/ r 20. — Players on Longbom and Mir-i-Shub. ^ r i - 1 ' ' « • ( 99 ) FoUowiDg thb, the Regent^ Alim Koli^ proctseded by Kuramma to secare and settle Tashkand. Here he executed the Uoyemori Shidrndn Mirzi^ and reinstated his own father-in-law, Nar Mohammad, ParwdneAi, On his return towards the capital he placed the Euddyeki, Uydar Kali Kapchiki in -command of the Kuramma Fort, and took the KoMegi, Yi^kfib Beg, with bim to Khokand for attendance at court. Whilst here, about April 1864, news arrived of the advance of the Russians against Chamkand, and Alim Kuli at once sent forward Ydktib Beg to secare and strengthen the defences of Tashkand. On his arrival there he was joined by Mirza Ahmad, Koshbegi, retreating with his troops from Chamkand. In October the Russians appeared before Tashkand. ¥ilk6b l^eg issued to fight them, but was defeated and driven back into the fort; and the Russians on their part, having lost several men, retired on Chamkand. Alim Kuli now hurried up with reinforcements, and set to work to fortify the place. Whilst so engaged, the envoys of Sadik Beg Kirghiz arrived with news of the revolt in Kishghar, and the want of a Khoja to fill the vacant throne there. Alim Kuli sent off Buiurg Kbao, with Koakbegi Y4kiib i%g as his Bdior^bdikif but could spare no troops to help them to take the country. The rest of Yik^b Bog's career has been given in the history, up to the date of bis assuming the title of Amir Muhammad Yik6b Khin. He has ten sons and several daughters living. Only two of his Khokand sons are with him in Kdshghar, viz., Beg Kuli Beg, aged twenty-six years, and Hacc Kuli Beg, aged twenty- three years. The otber sons, born in K^hghar and brought up in the palace, are children, the eldest of whom are now learning to read their lessons ; their names are AbduUa Beg, Rahm&n Kuli Beg, Karim Kuli Beg, Khaday&r Beg, &c. Tie Court^^Tihe Amir's court is said to be formed on the model of that of Khokand. It certainly contains many of the former courtiers of the late Mallah Kh&n, and not a few refugees from the court of the ruling Khudayar Khan ; all of whom, with rare exceptions, have left theiA families and property on their patrimonial estates in Khokand, or in the districts now in- corporated with the Russian empire. The Amir, however, has no fixed establishment, nor regular gradation of ranks, such as formed the court of the Khokand Kh&n. The principal of these officers attached to the palace were the $(nbarddr, groom in waiting; the doiiurikwdiusAi, hutiet ; the AiM^^ii, chamber- Iain; the yaidwulf mace-bearer; the mrdiior, master of the stables; the mahram, confidential messenger ; the kha$inach%, treasurer ; the afidbachi, cup-bearer ; the dacdwalddski, chief provi- sioner; and a number of other minor grades of court domestics. The principal officers of state were the miitar, prime minister; the pancdnehi, chancellor; the dddhkwdh, district governor ; the atdUk^ preceptor or controller of the state ; the koshbegi, lord of a tribe or lieutenant of a country ; the ehaghdtoal, foreign secretary ; the Uhikdgha, lord warden ; the tocedwd or toesdbdjf, lord of a standard or leader of an army in the field ; cardwulbegi, intendant of frontier defences; the earchi^ master of ordnance; the jabachi^ revenue collector; the zakdieAi, custom officer; the mirzdbdshi^ chief secretary; the umara, courtier, and some others of lower rank. Besides these officers there were certain ranks of nobility such as euddr, ordc, inde, khoja, iarak, and eekdn, the possessors of which periodically attended court and gave the king the benefit of their advice in matters referred for their judgment. The military officers under the direct authority of the king were the mingbdshi, ^* com- mandant of a thousand ;'^ but in reality the office is equivalent to general of a division ; the amifilaekkar, brigadier; the bdlorbdeki, detachment or troop . leader ; the ndjfb, deputy or second in command; the paiuadbdsAi, commandant of five hundred, or regimental colonel; the j^izbdeki, commandant of a hundred, or captain; the pif^'dbdaki, commandant of fifty, or lieutenant; the onid^it, commandant of ten, or sergeant; the ^diewr, aide-de-camp ; the ear' bdekiy provost marshall ; and the jaUdd, the executioner. The foot soldier was called sarbdz, and Uie horse soldiery^. The ecclesiastic department, which includes that of law, comprised the following officers, namely, iiekk-ul-uldm, elder of the faith, or bishop ; eoMi^kaldn, chief justice ; ed§i aakar, u ( 100 ) jviigt of criminal canses; cdgiul^4mU, jad^eof ciyil caases ; edei rod, jodga of reti^ous canaes; cdzi muAhsiby judge of offences against pnblio morals; »Mfii, jadge of decrees; *ilm, jadgre c*f appeal ; mukarrir. notary ; mMdarrU, schoolmaster; kkdiib^ preacher; imdm, chaplain ; muazzin, caller to prujers; m^dioir, sweeper^ &o. There were, besides, the muilA, *4lim or 'ula'^a, dkkiny ftc, doctors of divinity and law, osaalty on the establishment of some college ; as were the Mhekhi superior; iaff^v^//», custodian ; cdri. koran reader; and farrdnh, servitor attached to the shrine connected with it. Of the above departmetits of governments only the two last are fonnd fully organised in K&shg;har^ pu.y the army and the church, though neither can be considered to work efficiently, nor in their pre^ent state, to be capable of resisting serious opposition. With respect to the first two, the court itself is manatfed with an affec- tation of extreme simplicity, without parade or pomp of any kind; and this absence of osten- tation is counterbalanced by the punctilious observance of a very minute etiquette and strict discipline; all d<)nduotecl within the precincts of the royal residence, with a solemnity of behaviour and severity of silence which are most impressive in effect; and are heightened by the gravity of deportment habitually observed by the Amir in his behaviour towards his courtiers. The distance between the Amir and his courtiers is wide. Very few are allowed to be seated in his presence, and then at a considerable interval between. Bven his hij^hest and most trusted nobles and adherents, in his presence, display a manner of humility and deference which is not assumed, but is the natural effect of the fear inspired by the knowledge of hie abeolute authority, and the experience of the trifling causee wliioh may evoke his displeasure and call forth the tyranny of his wrath. Few words are ever spoken in the presence, and then only in reply, with an expression of timidity and tone of deprecation. The Amir carries on the government of the country through his own direct authority by means of officials immediately in correspondence with himself in all matters other than those of trifling detail. Adminiatratian of gov€fnmeni.^^\\A is conducted through a staff of governors of division, who are styled d&dhhw6h. Each receives his orders from the Amir direct, and is responsible for the revenue of the country committed to his care, as well as for the maintenance of order and the security of the roads and frontiers. The dddAiwdk resides in an orth or palace in the fort of the capital of his division, with the garrison which is under his orders, and an estab* lishment of officials for the different offices of the executive government, such as the aaministra* tion of justice, collection of revenue, management t>f police, &o. And he has in each district of his division a beg, or mir, or iarkdr, according to the size of the district, who is a governor subordinate to himself, and has a staff of officers corresponding to those at the capital. These district governors correspond direct with the dddAkwdA, and are responsible to him for the revenue, and the safety and the good order of their several charges. The dddhkwdh has no power to remove or appoint these district governors without the sanction of the Amir; but within prescribed limits he is the supreme authority in his own division, and holds a court daily for the despatch of public business ; the confirmation and execution of the sentences passed by the law courts, the reception of petitions, enquiry into the wants of traders, &o., &c. In all matters of extraordinary occurrence, as well as in cases in which capital execution ia sentenced by the judges, he refers to the Amir for final orders. Adminiifratian of Jusiioe, — This is conducted by a staff of judicial officers called odd, myftiy 'alim, ftc, according to the SkariaC, and is the same as in other Musalman governments. Each dddkkwdh has such a staff as part of his governing establishment, as has each of his district governors or superintendents ; only in the latter cases the department is represented by a minor official, who transfers all cases beyond his powers for settlement by the higher oflScers at the capital of the division ; where such sentences as mutilation, torture, flogging, and execu- tion are carried out in the presence of the dddkkwdk. Punukmenf4 if\fiieted in Eaaiem Turkestan. Aneieni punUkmznti hefore ike \iSik eeniury {Mo^kul). — Under the Moghuls, a noble was entitled to forgiveness nine times, but, for the tenth fault, was imprisoned; when taken before his Chief on this occasion for enquiry, suo^ noble would be mounted on a white horse (of 2 years of age); on his arrival before the hakim nine white felts were placed under the horses feet; during the enquiry a second noble acted as apokesman between the hakim and the offender. If his fault was proved and he was ( 101 ) pnoMKiMed wwthf of the panisbmaBt of dwth, th« ofendet with oomMtwUt stett was pUoed OD • nftt Two men of rank tlien mpported him, ttDaog him by the ihonlden, wh«D th* exeontioner, who WM then termed Kaneii, approaohed. This man tied both arms with bandi^, both above and below the elbow, and when tbe Urge vein wae di«cor«r«d in each arm, it waa opened, and tbe offender was allowed to bleed to death, the bandi^rea beiD(f removed. It waa a mie that at his death the two dignitariea who aexisted shonld weep and lament him publicly, and that they sbonld Buparinteud hia barial. Sentence of death thu« administered was termed uldenb. If sentence flhert of death wae awarded, what waa termed yargkii wna ordered; thia involved conescation of property, and degradation from rank or title of nobility. On common people death was inflicted either by catting the throat witb a aword, or by bricking op tbe living nun in a wall (burial alive). For adoltery, women were paniebed by catting off the breaata and by aeveriog the main einew behind the ankle. They were, however, aaaaily imprisoned and anbjected to hard labour fur amaller offencea. Men guilty of mnrdei or of high treaaon (offenoe a?Bimt the rei|niiBg Kfaan) wen bnried up to tbe waiat in a public manner, and anaddreas, patting forth the offeooe of the calprit, waf read by tbe Toraobi^Tora (actj ; aft«r which death Waa inflicted by apearing, a body of moanted troops being drawn ap for the pnrpoae. If a man waa accnaed of murder, theft, or other important offence and denied tbe charge, he yr»a eubjected to the following torture to extract oonreasion ; boiling oil was spriukWd over hia body, but chiefly over hie neck and ghooldera. This torlare was called Kin, other inrerior punistimenta were kulta — icourging with a thick short stave. Teyak. — Flogging with pomegranate branches. The pomegranate tre« is reverenced by Pire-worsbippeis, and ihii puniahment woold appear to have come from their rule. Sultan Sat6k Bogra Khan introdaced panisbmenta according to the Shariat, bnt the old coBtom of cutting the throat with the sword waa retained ; the custom of death by bnrying to the waiat and killing with a spear was altered to burial up to the waiat and publio atoning. CitiMM Pumiikmentt. (TDqA.) — Imprisonment, bat the ttfender had a celUr of vrood known as sh&l plaeed ronnd bis oeok. On the weekly bazar days the prisoner wsa taken into the city to beg, when he obtained enbaistence for the week. IT ha waa chained, it ( 102 ) wat with a double chain and a long iron bar oonnecting them ; one of the chains beings fastened to the neok and the other to the ankle, progression became possible by the prisoner holding the iron bar in his hands. This ohain was termed ishkal. Offenders accused of marder or offence against the State were distinguished by confinement in a cage until sentence was passed. If deatA was awarded, the head was cut off with a sword, the executioner wearing a red dress : before the execution he was primed for his task with intoxicating drink. In eases of erim, eon. the man and woman were placed on donkeys and taken through the street, the man having his face blackened and turned towards the donkey^s tail ; the woman with a sack thrown over her head. Bape was punished with death, the head being cut off at a place where four roads meet. Minor offences among men were punished with the lash. The Chinese had an establishment at Charchend for those undergoing sentence of banish- ment, where they were watched by a military force and were subject to regulations as convicts. At the present time the punishments are as follows: — For Murder, — Death in public on the bazar day by the cutting of the throat; the body beiog left on the spot for eight pahar as a warning or Hanging. For Highway Hobbery, — If accompanied by violence, death by public execution, or mutilation of hand or foot. Death is inflicted on both sexes, but the hands and feet of women are not struck off. For Tii^.--The first offence, and sometimes the second, are forgiven ; but for the third offence the hand of a roan is cut off. A woman, if convicted of theft, and sentenced to punishment, is put on a donkey with the stolen article on her neck and taken through the eity, or is publicly flogged with the dira, the long leather strap of the kazee's attendant ; the offender, however, is not stripped. If a woman is convicted when pre^^nant she cannot be punished till 40 days after the birth of a child ; six women are said to have been publicly executed in Kashghar since the Amir's rule commenced. The use of the torture known as Kin is said still to be employed. If a woman, unmarried, keeps company with a man, without going through the form of marriage, she is subject to 100 strokes of the dira; but for aduUerg proper, proved by eye- witnesses, two being sufficient, neither of whom must be a slave, death by cutting of throat or stoning is inflicted* The cutting of the throat is usually carried out in the larger cities, and hanging is adopted in provincial places. Thieves are sometimes punished by cutting off nose or ear, as well as band or foot : punishments are usually inflicted in the districts where the offence is oom« mitted, but occasionally public execution is ordered in Eashgar or elsewhere. Hanging is simply carried out by putting a noose over the neck and pulling the body by means of a rope from the ground, the rope running over a plain pully. Minor punishments are fine and the lash. Imprisonment is but little resorted to. Cases of theft under Rupees 10 worth of property, and not accompanied by violence, are invariably punished by strokes of the dira (a flat leather strap). All cases of important crimes, or relating to important individuals, are at once reported to head-quarters, and a mubariknama is forwarded from Kashghar, ordering sentence to be carried out in conformity with the Shariat and without further reference or giving detailed instructions. With people of any importance sentence of death further requires the oonfirma^ tion of the Amir. In addition to all this the Amir has his own executioners and holds his own Court for the trial of State offences. Petty offences about the palace and amongst the soldiery are tried by the Kazi Ushkur. Religioui imliliUioni.'^These are the same as in all Mahommadan countries, and are under the direct patronage of the Amir and the special care of the divisional governors, who see to the protection of their rights and the promotion of their objects, the nature of which has been already described. Finance. — The fixed sources of revenue are the 'wir, or tithe of all cereal produce of the land, and the zaid^ or customs duty. The 'wAr is levied from all cultivated land not seques- tered for church purposes, or granted in exemption as fie&. On the conquest of the oountiy ( 103 ) by the Amir be issaed a decree with the saoction of the Wim, to the effect that the whole of the soil vested in bimeelf as eole and absolnte proprietor ; but that hereditary owners and lease* holders could renew their rights by purchase through the ^alim of the division to which they belonged. This order applied equally to the freehold tenants by purchase, who were mostly Andijan emigrants. The majority of the landholders redeemed their nghiB by payment to the 'alim, from whom they received a document bearing his seal in testimony of the transaction. The lands which under the Chinese rule were held as crown property, and had been given in fief to the several divisional governors in their time (the Wdng^ lahikdgkd^ Beg, 8fc.^ were exempted from this order, and the Amir reserved them fur distribution amongst his adherents and officers. Church lands also were similarly exempted, and their glebe rights were renewed in favour of the original bequests. But all waste land^ including the pasture tracts around the settlements were decreed the absolute property of the Amir, and before they could be brought under cultivation it was incumbent on the farmer to purchase or rent it« All land, whether waste or cultivated, other than orchard and vineyard, appears to sell alike at the fixed rate of forty tanga or ten rupees, for as much as is sown with one ckdrak or twenty pounds of wheat. Generally the landowner or holder does not cultivate his estate himself, but lets it out to tenants, who, after paying the Government demands, render three-fourths of the net produce to the landlord, and retain the remaining share for themselves. The Government demands on the land are the 'iM^r, or one in ten parts of the gross produce of all cereal crops ; and the tandbi or tax on a measured area of fruit and vegetable gardens, and other crops not cereal. The tandb is a linear measure of nearly 47 yards, and any space on two sides by a line of that length is called a tandd of land. The tax varies from one or two, to eight or ten tanga the iandb, according to the nature and value of the crop. Such are the legal demands, but in practice much more is exacted by the Collectors for their own benefit, and whilst at Tangi Hissar we saw Government orders upon certain settlements for the collection of the ^usAr at the rate of three parts in ten. The gakdt is a Mahommedan tax like the 'usir sanctioned by the Shari^ai. It is one part in forty of all live-stock, and of merchandise entering the country. In the former case it is levied yearly in kind, but in the latter at an ad valorem rate in cash, at the custom house where the goods are examined. There are no data as to the receipts under these heads, and no accounts appear to be kept. Seemingly the Amir leaves this to the dddkhtodh, and makes no enquiry so long as the flow into the imperial treasury does not flag, or does not come short of the roughly estimated capabilities of the division. There are, besides the above, some muni- cipal imposts and taxes on drugs, &o., but their amount is trifling. And there is the produce of the gold mines of Khutan, of which no details are known. Previous to the treaty of trade with Russia, merchants other than Musalmans paid the xahdt at the rate of one in twenty ad valorem, as in other Mahommadan States, and Hindus further paid a monthly tax of two tanga per head so long as they resided in the country, and were prohibited from wearing the turban or riding on horseback in the streets. These restrictions have been all rescinded by the terms of the treaty concluded with the British Government, and British subjects, irrespective of creed, are now only subject to the same imposts as the Musalmans. PoUee. — The system of police is very intricate, and its ramifications pervade all society, with the effect of creating a profound mistrust of each other amongst the people, without materially improving the state of public morals ; for though some vices and abuses are put down with severely repressive measures (as prostitution and spirit or wine drinking), others of a worse nature are taken no notice of (as sodomy and opium or hemp-smoking), whilst others again, as gambling and obscenity, are little interfered with, unless the censor of public morals should come in contact with them in his rounds. The police may be divided into two classes, viz., the secret and municipal. The first are everywhere, and amonoet all classes, and nobody knows who they are, or how they act, but every* body feels their presence and is carefully on his guard. ( 104 ) The mnnioipal police comprises the urban and eabarban diyialons. The first is ander the maDagement of a saperintendent called CorbdsAi, whose office corresponds to that of the koiwdt in Indian cities ; and he has under him a body of policemen called iarzagcki. These have their beats in the city by day, and patrol it in small parties called paeban by night. Thieves, beggars, and wanderers found in the streets at night are lodged in prison till morning; beggars are then set free with a warning, and others on bail. But if a plaint is lodged against any so taken, he is carried before the edzi who inyestigates the case and gives judgment; and the case is then taken to the mu/ti who passes sentence, and then to the 'alim who confirms, and finally to the ddditkwdh^ who sees it carried into execution without further reference, except in cases in which death is the sentence, and for this he must first obtain the sanction of the Amir. Execution is usually by hangings though by slaughter, that is, cutting the throat, is not unfrequent. The gallows is a fixture in some open space near the city, and is furnished with three or four pulleys and long ropes. A noose at one end of the latter is passed round the neck of the condemned, and he is hauled up by the executioners till dead, and left to hang several days as a warning to others. The tarzagehi of the night patrol collect one tfirciMi=two pysa every week from each shop in the city. Once every day the Cdzi Basils, attended by a staff of four to six muhtasib, each of whom carries Sidira, or leather thong fixed to a wooden handle, goes the round of the bazars and main thoroughfares on horseback. He examines the weights in the retail shops, and flogs such as have short weights ; or in serious cases sends the offenders before the mi^fU for judgment. His own powers do not exceed the summary infliction ckE 20 to 40 stripes of the dim, and these are freely bestowed on women appearing unveiled in the streets, on gamblers, drunkards^ brawlers, and disorderly characters, and such as neglect the stated hours of prayer, and others. The weights are inspected once a fortnight, as also the stores of flour exposed for sale, and where earth is found mixed with it^ the offender is flogged in front of his shop. The city gates are held always by a military guard, and at night a Khitay watchman beats the yanp^ a sort of wooden gong, from a post over the gateway. This is a Chinese custom, and is still kept up. The fang is a hollow triangular case of wood, and is sounded with a drumstick at short intervals all through the night. The night patrol of the iarMaff^hi also sound a dmm on their rounds. It is called dumbae, and is like a tambour in shape, but covered on both sides. The suburban police have the same duties as the urban, and occupy posts on the roads leading from the suburbs to the city, and at night keep a guard of two men at particular spots and cross-roads. They examine trayellers and see that those passing the limits are provided with passports. Nobody is allowed to pass from one division to another, or from one district to another, without a passport, and if he does so, he is stopped and sent back for inquiry at the first police station on the road. In every city and market town there is an office for the issue of passports. It is a mere bit of paper, stating the bearers name, where he goes from and to where he goes, and on what business, and on what date. It is granted free of charge, and on return of the bearer to his original place, he must get it stamped or signed at the office of the place he leaves. This office is in charge of a secretary, who is under the orders of the Pdnsadbdtii or other military commandant of the division or district. The Army. — The Chinese held the country with an organized foroe of about twenty thousand men, of which five thousand were Ealm&k cavalry, including the body-guards of the several divisional Amb&ns, which were composed of M&njhd Tartars from the Ua country. These guards varied in strength from fifty to two hundred men, according to the rank of the Amb&n, and the extent of his command, and were all armed with the lance and sword, and were uniform in dress and horse equipments. The Kalmik were an irregular body, only armed with the bow and arrow, and mounted on their own horses ; they were mostly employed as foragers and scouts. The army is under the direct command of the Amir through Pdnsadbdsii officers appointed by him. There are twelve of this rank at Kashghar, two at Tangi Hissar, and two at T&rkand. Each FdnsadbdsAi is supposed to have five hundred men under him, with five Tiiibdaki or ( 105 ) commandant of a hundred. Each of these has two Pinjabdiki or commandant of fifly under him ; and each of these has five Onhdihi or commandant of ten under him. This is not^ howeyer, carried out in practice^ and the THzbdaki and Pinjaidsii are usually directly under the orders of the Amir^ and if not employed in independent ck|tiet» tie shifted about from one Pinsadbdsii to another. Eid.-J. T. F. OHAFTBB III. HISTOET OF KASHGHAR-* Bg H. W. Bellew. Thb ancient history of this region^ which constitutes no mean portion^ as regards superficial extent at leasts of that vast territory indicated by the compre- hensive term Central Asia^ is enveloped in the doubts of obscurity that surround all ancient history. For several centuries anterior to the Christian era it formed part of the empire of Turdn swayed by a long line of Scythian Kings who are referred to a common descent from the great family of Afrfisy^b. Of the wealthy power^ civilization and laws of this ancient and most remarkable people who figure in the early records under the various Tdrtdr^ Chinese^ Indian^ and European appellations of Kioto Moey, Sai^ Su^ ^&ci, Sdky&^ Xaca^ Sacoe, Scythce^ Tokhdri^ Yueichi, Yuchi, Yetoe^ Getce^ Jattah^ Jath^ Jat^ Jotun^ Gothi^ Guti, Goths^ Guttones^ Massagetoe, Caucasians^ Tentones^ Yenden^ Vandals^ Germans^ &c., &c.^ and who are all classed under the generic appellation of Aryan from Ariavartha^ the old Sanskrit name of the r^on now known as that group of mountain ranges concentrating in Hindu Kush — ^the Kohi K^ of Orientals^ the Caucasus of occidentals — and recognized as the primseval abode or location of the Caucasian stock of the Man family^ we have many historic records; but none more significant than the yet enduring consequences of their early foreign conquests from this cradle of their race extending from the valley of the Syhon on the west to the basin of Lake Balkash on the east. The successive irruptions of their vast colonizing hordes into northern and eastern Europe during the centuries just preceding and following the Christian era, as his- tory teaches^ thoroughly revolutionized the old form of society^ and planted a new * There are seyeral histories of the life and career of Yakub Khan, the Amfr of Eashghar, besides those to be found in Yambery's and Yon Hellwald's pablished works. Bat no one has gone into the Histoiy of Eastern Turkistan firom the earliest times with snch deep and carefal research as Dr. Bellew. He has spent man^ months in reading yolnminous Persian and Torki manuscriptsi and owing to his remarkable linguistic attainments he has ei^joyed better opportunities than any one else of oonyersing with the learned men of the country. I have therefore adopted his history for incorporation in this work. (Sd.) T. D. FOBSTTH. The following sketch of the history of K&shghar, and supplementary description of the country, haye been prepared for submiAion to Goyemment at the request of Sir l/ouglas Forsyth, late Envoy to the Court of Kishghar. The work has been compiled from such ' authorities and materials as were accessible at the time, coupled with the results of personal enquiry and obsenration on the spot during the stay of the Embassy m the country. These from the nature of the case, it will be understood, were found as limited as the time itself at my disposal and, though no labour has been spared in reducing the mass of materials collected into a consecutiye and at the same time brief form, there has consequentiy been no attempt to enter into lengthy detail. This last result could only have been aocomplisned had I enjoyed the advantage of a reference to European and Oriental ubraries, and a sufficient leisure to study the Buhjeot ( 107 ) Bet of languages^ with a sew blood on the soil of their conquests there. Whilst to the Boath and east the Indian peninsula similarly in its language^ religion^ and fendalism bears testimony to the earlier and as complete tran^lantation of the ancient Scythian element in that direction. Between these two great waves of migration are the Persians. Their historians romanoe on the theme of the wars of the early sovereigns of Iran against the incarsionti of those kindred races^ the terrible Scythians of Tiirdn. Their poets sing the heroic combats and deeds of valour of their champions against this northern lyrant^ and tell of his final r^ulse beyond the Oxus^ the limit between t^e two empires. The power of the Scythians in their native seat appears to have been first broken by their western neighbours and old enemies of Ir^^ and finally extinguished by the Macedonian conquest. M.P. Sydwush^ about 580 B.C., fleeing from his &ther^ Kaikfios, crossed the Jyhcm and sought refuge with the enemy of his family^ Afr^y&b^ whose capital — near N. tiie site of the modem Bukh^ — was Bdmetan, not very long afterwards celebrated M.P. for its magnificent dt^hkadah or *^ fire temple/' The Scythian King received the Possian refugee with kindness and^ granting him an honorable asylum^ gave him his daughter, the beautiful Farangis, in marriage, with the provinces of Khutan and Chin as her dowry. Thither Sy&wush retired with his bride, and settling at Kung — ^probably Katak, the ruins of which now exist near Lob at 12 or 14 days journey north-east of Khutan — ^made it the ciq)ital of his government of Khutan and Chin, or as it is usually styled Mdchin which, together, comprised the southern and eastern portion of the great basin known as Eastern Turkistan. I trust, however, that the history and description of this, to as, new region, snch as they are, will be found to contain some interesting and nseful information, and serve to convey a correct knowledge of the past events and present condition of the country to which they relate. It is necessary for me here to state that the published authorities from whose works I hare drawn my information are noted in the margin of the text by initials according to the subjoined detailed list. For the rest and for the later history I am indebted to the statements of various individuals, actors, or participators in the events they described, such as Afghans, Hindustanis, Andij&nis, Kidm4c and other residents. Whilst for the information brought together in the general description I am indebted to the statements made bv natives of the country, compared and tested, or modified and enlarged according to my own personal observation and enquiry. The following authors have been made use of in the compilation of this history of E&Bhgharia, namely: — > Malcolm's Histoir of Persia. M J^. Tule's Cathay and the way thither. Y.C. Seal's Fah Hian. B.F.H. Bemusat's Khoten. B.K. Michell's Russians in Central Asia. M.Y. Yambery's History of Bukh&ra. Y.B. Hamilton Smith's Natural History of the Human Species. S.H.S. Wells WiUiam's Middle Kingdom. W.W. Bomanoffski's Turkestan. Rom. Rauzat-us-Safil of Mir Eli4wind Sh6h. R.S. Zafar N&ma TymM of Shaxifuddfn 'Ali Tazdi. Z.N.T. Tabc&ti N&san of Minhajuddin 'nthm4n J&uzj&ni. T.N. Tibikhi Narshakhi written 332H.=:943 A.D. by Abdbakar Muhammad bin Ja'&r al Narshakhi, and translated from the Arabic by Muhammad bin Za'far bin 'Umar into Persian in 622H.=1127A.D. N. TazMra Bughra Khan, translated from the original Penaan into Torki by Shekh Naj- muddin AtiAr. T.B.K. T4r(khi Rashidl of Mirz4 Hydar Gurikin. T.R. T&ilkhi Sigh4r, monograph of 'Abdulla Pdnsad in the service of the Ruler of Eishghar. Tazkirk Hid&yat of Mir KhMuddin Y&rkandL T.H. Personal observation or enquiry, P. Simla, ") (Sd.) H. W. Bxllsw, Surgwrn-Major, The 22nd Auguit 1874 ) Tdrkand JEmba$i2/. y ( 108 ) GaTshew&z became jealons of the rising power of Syfiwush^ and persuading his brother^ Afrfey^b^ that he aimed at independence so excited his suspicions that he summoned him to his capital and there killed him. Popular tradition points to the N. Darwdza 6hory&n of Bukh&rd as the spot on which he was slain ; and the site was long held sacred by the Mugh^n or " fire- worshipers/' the followers of Zarathustra or Zoroaster, who used to assemble there every New Year's day at sunrise, each man bringing a cock which he sacrificed on the spot in commemoration of the murder. The murder of Sydwush created intense excitement in Persia, and Kaikdos bend- M.P. ing to the popular demand sent his general, the celebrated Rustam, with a great army to avenge his death. He besieged Rdmetan for two years, built B&mish N. opposite to it, and finally driving Afr&sy&b from the country occupied it for seven years with his Persians. Sy&wush left a posthumous son by Farang^s, named Eaikhusro, or Cyrus, who after M.P. a romantic career of infancy became King of Persia, and warred with his grand- father to avenge the death of his father. His general, Rustam, after many prodigies of valour against the troops of Chin and Khutan, drove Afr^sy&b from his capital, and dividing his country amongst the Persian commanders returned to the Court of Eaikhusro. Afr&sydb, however, again recovered his capital, and waged an indecisive warfare against the Persian Sovereign till Kaikhusro finally conquered Bukhdrd and Samarcand, and capturing Afrdsydb slew him. His grave is said to be at the N. Ma'bad gate of the city where these events are commemorated amongst the people of Bukhdr^ in the popular ditties known as " The songs of Sydwush.'' Kaikhusro now resigned his crown and government to his adopted son, Lohrasp, M.P. the son-in-law of Kaik^os, and he soon exacted homage from the nders of Tdrtary and China, and thus established his authority over the country of the Afrdsy&b Kings. The Persian sovereignty thus established in Turdn was destroyed in the person of D^db II., the fifth in succession from Lohrasp, by the conquest of Alexander the Great about 330 B.C. And the Greek Bactrian king^dom founded by him in Saghd was in it» tarn overthrown by the invaBion from the north of the Grkt Ynchi. During the period from the overthrow of the Afr&sydb dynasty to the subse- quent establishment of the Greek Bactrian empire the region to the east, known P. as Chinese Tartary, or locally as Kichik Bukhdrd or " Little Bukh&rd/' was the theatre of contest between conflicting races — the early Caucasian possessors, and invading Moghol or Mongol hordes from the extreme north. These numerous tribes of hardy mountaineers, pressed by the barbarian hosts from the north — who in later times have become prominent on the pages of history under the names of Moghol, M^njhu or M&nchur, Kalmdk or Kalmuck, Kirghiz or Kirguise, Noghay, Bdshkir, Uzbak, &c. — during the long period of the Chow dynasty from 1122 to 260 B.C., when the B.P.H. Chinese Empire was divided into a fluctuating number of petty principalities — from 125 at one time to 41 at another — ^made repeated incursions into the more tempting territories of their eastern and southern neighbours, until in 253 B.C., Che Hwangti, the first universal monarch of the empire, built the Great Wall against their destructive inroads. Of these northern tribes the Yuchi or Tokhdr, a branch of the Tungnu or Eastern Tdrtir people, were the most warlike and formidable. They had been driven from their lands westward to the banks of the Ha River just anterior to 200 B.C. by the Hiungnu, or Huns, under their Chief Mothe who, in his victorious career, finally conquered all the country from the borders of China on the east to the banks of the Volga on the west. The rapid rise to power of the Hiungnu alarmed the Chinese, and in the reign of Kaou-tsu, the first Emperor of the Han dynasty, from 202 to 194 B.C., they sent an army against Mothe. But it hastily retired before the vast superiority of his numbers, and the Hiungnu for 50 years maintained their supremacy. At this time the Yuchi, pressed by the Hiungnu, separated. The lesser division or Little Yuchi passed into Tibet, whilst the greater division or Great Yuchi — the T&y Yuchi — descended upon Kdshghar, Y^rkand, and Khutan where, about 163 B.C.^ they displaced the original occupants called S&k& or Sd by the Chinese. ( 109 ) B.F.H« Some years later — 189 B.C. — ^the Emperor Wooti^ of the Han dynasfy^ sent an Envoy to the Great Yuehi for the purpose of arranging a combined movement against the Hiungnn, the common enemy of both. But at the time of his arrival, the Yuchi, being preyed by the Ussun tribe, were urged forward to the invasion of Saghd, and Tahia — the country of the Dahce — and they carried the Chinese Envoy, Chang Kian, along with them. On this new ground the Yuchi gpradually made good their stand, and — about 126 B.C. — having overthrown the decaying Greek Bactrian kingdom, drove out the Saka across the Oxus and the mountains beyond into the country drained by the Kabul river, and, establishing themselves in their place, soon spread over the pro- vince that has since been named, aiter their tribal appellation, Tokhdristdn; which includes Balkh, Cunduz, Hiss&r, fiolor, Wakhin, and Badakhsh^n. The Envoy, Chang Kian, after a detention of ten years effected his release, and returned to China after an absence of 16 years, during which he experienced a variety of remarkable and perilous adventrures, with only two survivors of the original company of 100 with which he set out. His return was welcomed with rejoicings, and, on account of the knowledge he had acquired of the western nations, he was raised to high rank, and, with Hou Kiuping as General, entrusted with the conduct of an expedition against the Hiungnu who were at that time — 123-121 B.C. — contesting the possession of the several little States from Kh&mil round by K&shghar to Khutan against the Ouigour or Uyghur who, since 200 B.C.^ had, under the name of Kuisse, taken possession of the country from the direction of Eh&mil. The expedition failed, and Chang Kian was reduced from his high position to the ranks. But during this campaign his troops first saw the golden statue of Budha which was worshiped by the King of Hieai-to or Kartchou, and which was destined hereafter to be the means of introducing the new faith into China. The statue was taken and carried to the Emperor, and afterwards served as the model for others when the doctrine of Budha gained a footing in the country, as will be mentioned further on. Wooti, though at first unsuccessful, prosecuted the war against the Hiungnu, and materially checked their career. His successor, Chaouti, followed the same policy, and finally broke their power by a singal defeat. This disaster was followed by dissensions and anarchy amongst the tribes, whilst a plague and famine coming in the wake of their protracted warfare completed the reduction of the turbiuent Hiungnu, who in 60 B.C. passed under subjection to the Chinese. Y.C. They subsequently, however, rebelled and for a season recovered their former independence, but were again subdued in 83 A.D., and, following this, the whole country was annexed to China by — 94 A.D. — the capture of K^hghar. These successes were achieved by the celebrated soldier Panohao who from this crossed the mountains of Bolor, attacked the Y%chi or Tokhdri, killed their King, and a few years later pushed his arms as far as the Caspian ; for in 102 A.D. he sent an expedition thus far westward under Kanyng in the vain-glorious attempt to conquer the Boman Empire. From this time forward till the period of the Arab conquest, the history of this region belongs to that of the Chinese Empire. Whilst the Chinese were thus engaged in subjugating the territory of Klushghar, the Great Yuchi, relieved from the pressure of tiieir old enemies, consolidated their power in their new possessions, and during the century of their settlement in Saghd and T^hia became a very numerous and powerful nation with their capital at Bukh&rd. N. This ancient city is said to have been built by Afrdsy&b on the site of a former marsh formed by floods from the M&saf River, and tibe country around to have been settled by tribes originally coming from Turkist&n under a Chief named Abrawy. He settled the countiy, built Bekand as his capital, and Daboey- as his ( no ) cafitte^ and planted the settlements of Nur, Kharcdb^ Fardinsa^ Safina^ Tatdwjak^ and N. AyBW&nsa. After a time this Abrawy oppressed the people^ and manj of tbem^ nnder a leader named Hamok= J9ifx^r^s:Oreat^ emigrated to Turkistan^ and there bnilt the town of Hamokat; whilst the others^ unable thns to escape from their toik^ sought aid from the King of Turkistan^ one Cardehorin Turk^ suraamed jy/^Ao= Great. He sent a vaat army nnder his son^ Sher Kishwar^ who seized Abrawy in Bekand^ and killing him by tossing in a sack of red felt^ assumed the government of the country on the part of his father. Sher Kishwar recalled the emigrants from Hamokat^ and settled them on their former lands under their own Chiefs who were called Bukh&r Khiddt, because they were the original possessors of the country. He restored Bukhdrd from the state of ruin to wUch it had fallen and improved the city, and planted the suburbs of M^^^ Mumdsti, Saematin, Satmm and Farb. After a reign of 20 years, he was succeeded by Iskajakt who built the tewns of R&metan, Darkhadii, and Shard. He received in marriage a daughter of the Emperor of China, and when she arrived at Bukhdrd there came in the train of her dowry a costly idol temple resplendent in jewels, and the rarest gems which he caus^ te be set up at Bimeten with great ceremony and pomp. Bukhdrd at this period was a principal <;entre of the Zoroastrian religion, and abounded in temples for the worship of fire ; whilst in the region adjoining to the east Hindoo Brahmanism flourished vigorously. The idol temple above referred to indicates the importation of a new element by the introduction of the Chinese Pantheon of mythology. Be this as it may, all three forms of worship were now shortly te be supplanted by a different religion which was pressing its way up through the passes te the south. The Yuchi, the last Caucasian race that left the north central high land of Asia, S.H.S. on being pressed by the Mongolians or Huns from the north-east — about 200 B.C. — were dnven from Shensi upon the Sai or Saka of Khutan and Kdshghar, whom they, in turn, propelled forward te the west and south. One of these divisions from southern Tibet fell upon the Greek Bactrian State — 90 B.C. — then ruled by Mithridates, and about the same time came inte conflict with the Parthians whose King, Artaban, they slew. From Bactria they crossed the Paropamisus, and subdued another Greek sovereignty in Afghanistan, on the south side of the range, and passing onwards, formed a province of Sind; but, in an attempt te advance further eastward, they were routed and driven back by Yikramaditya, King of Avanti— 56 B.C. Following the repulse of the Scythians south of the passes, Khiu-teiu-hi, B.F.H. recognized as the Hyrcodes of the coins — 89-26 B.C. — King of the Kwai-tehang, or Gouchang, or Gushan, the strongest of the five tribes inte which the Great Yuchi had divided, united the other four xm9er his rule, and pushing across the mountains, conquered Cabul, Ariana, and Gandhira. His son, Hima Kadphises of the coins, continued the father's conqueste, and subdued all India west of the Jamna, and ruled from 35 to 15 B.C. His son, the celebrated Kanishka, with his brothers, Hushka and Jushka, ruled over Kashmir for sixty years. This Kanishka adopted the religion of Budha — which, though it had for three centuries before flourished in India, was only in the reign of Asoka — 250B.C.-— established as the Stete religion here — and became its ardent supporter, so that the new doctrine was rapidly spread throughout all the Tokhitri dominion. During his reign — 15 B.C. to 45 A.D. — ^the third great Synod of Budlust clergy was held in Kashmir, and some of the finest stupa or ^'tepe " in Kabul and the Panjab were greeted. In tiie fourth year of the reig^ of Mingti, second Emperor of the Han dynasty, the capital of which was established by his predecessor, Kwangwu, at Loyang or Honaiiu, His Majesty saw in a vision the apparition of a resplendent figure entering ( 111 ) B.F.H. his palace. A oonclave of astrologers and priests was assembled to interpret the dream, and they nnanimously referred the personage to Budha, of whom a golden image, as before mentioned, had already, 121 B.C., reached the oonntty; and a mission was forthwith deputed to the Great Yuchi and to India for the purpose of studying the doctrine. The mission returned, after an absence of eleven years, with a number of Budhist priests and books. These last were translated about 76 A.D., and thus the doctrine of Budha, already firmly established in Tokh&rist^n and the adjoining countries, was now fairly introduced into China. It was eagerly adopted, and spread rapidly, so that in Loyang alone there were in 350 A.D. forty-two richly embellished pagodas, besides others of inferior note. The discipline of the monks, however, was yet very imperfect ; a source of sorrow to the devout disciples of the great teacher, and a cause of trouble to those charged with the maintenance of public order. To remedy these evils, one of the former class, Chi Fah Hian, set out on a pilgrimage to India to study in its native seat the law of which he was an enthusiastic follower. About the same time the Emperor, Yao Hing, 397-415 A.D., sent an army to Koutche=Kuch&, a petty principality at the foot of the mountains, and to the north-west of Lake Lob, to fetch one Eumirajiv^, a learned Indian priest residing there, to instruct the native priesthood in the right way. P. Kuch&, in early times, appears to have been the site of a large Budhist monastery. I have been informed of the existence there at the present day of very extensive ruins, originally bqilt of gfreat blocks of dressed and sculptured stone. A series of chambers or galleries is said to be excavated in a hill hard by, and their interior is described as decorated with a rich variety of paintings, remarkable alike for the superiority of their execution, and the freshness of their colours. Some figures, too, are mentioned as carved on the rocks in the vicinity, and numerous sculptured fragments are found about the ruins; whilst tales are told of the marvellous size and rare excellence of the gems that are oecasionally picked up amongst the debris. One of these, described as 'din-ul-harr, or ^' caf s eye,'' the size of a hen's egg, and of a lustre equal to that of a lamp in a dark room, is said to have been found here some years ago by a poor shepherd who was murdered for the possession of the gem through the instrumentality of a China merchant by whom the ill-gotten treasure was sold to the Emperor for a fabulous sum. The unscrupulous trader, however, as the story goes, did not long enjoy his wealth ; for on his return journey homewiird, to spend the rest of his days in the thus ill-purchased ease, he was overtaken by a whirlwind in the passage of the desert of Gobi, and overwhelmed in a storm of sand, amidst the wild cries, shouts, and jeering laughter of the evil spirits that haunt this dread region, and, by such convukions of the elements they rule over, flourish upon the destruction of their victims. B.F.H. Fah Hian set out on his journey in 400 A.D., and passed from the frontier town of Chang Yeh in Kansu to Tun Wang, the Sachion of Marco Polo, in Taugut. From this he crossed the desert of Gobi to Shenshen in seventeen days, and thence in fifteen days, through the country of the Uightir, he came to Khutan, where he arrived in deplorable plight, after experiencing inconceivable hardships and dangers from the difficulties of the roads and rivers. At Khutan he met an hospitable reception, and found a highly flourishing Budhist community, with ten thousand priests, many magnificent temples, commodious monasteries, and a general devotion to the rites of the religion. With these two instances of Kuch& on the north and Khutan on the south, we may fairly understand that the Budha doctrine here found a congenial soil, took firm root, and made a rapid growth. It was not so, however, further to the east. Fah Hian returned from India by way of Ceylon and Java in 415 A.D., after an absence of fifteen years. A few years later, in 420 A.D., the Tsin dynasty was overthrown by that of the northern Wei Tartar, and during tiie first years of their ( 112 ) rule BadhisiiL wbb perseonted^ and images and temples of the faith prohibited. ^ These B.F.H. lestrictions^ however, were relaxed in 451 A.D., and one temple was allowed in each city, with permission for forty or fifty of its people to become priests. But they were placed nnder the special supervision of the police, since it had become a too frequent occurrence for criminals to assume the priestly garb in order to escape the punishment of their offences ; and for agitators under its protecting cloak the more conveniently to prosecute their seditious schemes. The fresh impetus now acquired by the new doctrine aroused the hostility of the followers of the system of Confucius, which had been from of old the orthodox religion of the land, and many attempts were made to banish it; but, though persecuted and patronized by turns, Budhism continued slowly and steadily to spread throughout the Wei kingdom, and finally became established with an endurance commensurate with its very gradual growth. In 518 A.D. Tai Han, Empress Dowager of the Great Wei, commissioned Sung Yun, a native of Tan Wang in Little Tibet, to proceed to India for books of the Budha doctrine; and he returned after an absence of three years with 175 volumes. But the religion had at this time become corrupted by the use of charms and magic, an innovation that found favour mostly in the camps of the ignorant Tartar nomads, and the new importation effected apparently but littie amelioration. Consequently, about a century later, 629 A.D., in the reign of Tae Tsung, second Emperor of the Tang dynasty, 620 to 904 A.I)., another celebrated pilgrim set out from China to seek the true and pure doctrine in India. This was Hiouen Thsang. He set out from Liang Cheu by the old caravan route through Kh&mil, Turf&n, and Kar^hahr to Aksu. Here he crossed the Muz-art=='' glacier pass'^ to Lake Isigh Kol, and thence went on to Tar^==Turkisttfn, and Sh£sh=Tfishkand, Samar- cand, and Balkh. From this he continued his way by B&mydn, and Lamp&ka= Lamgh&n or Lughm&n into India, whence, after an absence of sixteen years, he returned to his home by the outward route of Fah Hian through Khutan. Whilst the Budhist doctrine, already fast decaying in India, was thus working Y.C. its way to a new growth in China, the Christian religion, as represented by the Nestorian Church, was steadily advancing across the continent ^om the west. The activity and zeal of the early missionaries had already carried the Word far eastwards, and, so early as the fifth and sixth centuries, they had established bishoprics at Herat, Marv, and Samarcand ; later at Yarkand, and finally in China itself. That of Yarkand still flourished in 1260 A.D., or 1272 A.D., when Marco Polo visited the country, and probably fell at the same time as the bishopric of Almalik or Alm&ligh in 1339-40 A.D., under the bigoted zeal of the usurper 'Ali Sultan, as will be noted hereafter. The Chinese rule established over this region up to Bolor in 94 A.D., continued without interruption under Imperial Governors at the cities of Peshbalik or Beshbaligh P. ss'^The five towns,^^ Kar&shahr, Kishghar, and Khutan, until the decline of the Thang dynasty in Hie latter part of the ninth century when, owing to the internal divisions of the empire on the one hand, and the pressure of the conquering Arabs on the other, the border States of its distant western province gradually fell away, and became the possessions of petty local Chiefs who, to maintain the semblance of their assumed independence, preyed upon each other until they were in turn themselves swallowed up by more powerful enemies. Khutan, however, favoured perhaps by its position, appears to have maintained a more continuous communication with China than the other States of this frontier province, and we read of Envoys with tribute going to the Imperial capital through successive centuries almost up to the period of the recovery of the ancient frontier of the empire. In the reign of Wooti, of the Han dynasty, 140-87 B.C., Chinese officers were R.K. first sent to Khutan, whose King resided in the western town, called Changan, which contained 2,300 families, or 19,300 souls, and had an army of 2,400 men. In the seventh year of Hian-ti, 202 A.D., KJbutan sent caparisoned elephants as tribute. And in the following centuiy, when China was divided into three ( 113 ) R.K. king^doms^ the States of Jounglou^ lomi^ and Soule, which constituted K&shghar^ belonged to Khutan. In the ninth year of Wooti, of the Liang dynasty, 509 A.D., Envoys went with tribute to the Chinese capital^ and in the annals of this reign^ Khutan was then thus described : — ^' The people are Budhists^ and their women are in society as amongst other nations. They (the women) braid the hair into long plaits^ and wear peUsses and loose trowsers. The people are very ceremonious and polite, and curtsy on meet- ing by bending one knee to the ground. They write with pencils of wood, and carry F. stone seals, and on receiving a letter raise it to the head before opening it/' This description, it may be here noted, applies equally to the people of Khutan at the pre- sent day, excepting only that they are no longer Budhists, and with the addition that, when they have read their letters they invariably carry them in the folds of their turbans, or in their Tatar caps. Less than a century earlier than the above period, however, they received a very different character, and one, so far as moraUty is concern^, bj no means inapplicable at the present day, from the officers of an expeditionary force that entered the country in pursuit of a fugitive rebel. R.K. In the sixth year of Tae Wooti, of the north Wei dynasty, 445 A.D., an expe- dition was sent to punish the Tartars of Tangut. Their Prince, Mouliyan, fled to Khutan, and, coming into collision with its King, killed him. He was pursued, over- taken, and defeated at Yen-phing-pelan, whence he fled for refuge to the west of Khutan. The force it seems stayed here some time, and on their retm*n the officers gave the following description of the country : — " The district of Khutan is very fertile in all sorts of grains, and abounds in mulberry and fruit trees. It possesses good horses, camels, and mules. According to the law of the country, murderers are punished by death, and other offenders according to the gravity of their crimes. For the rest the manners of the people— as the productions of the county — are analogous to those of the Koueitseu (the Kuisse or Uighur). They are devoted Budhists, and have a great number of temples and religious towers for the service of which they support large establishments of priests. These people, however, know neither justice nor civility, and amongst them are many thieves, and adulterers, and other villainous reprobates.^' In 518 A.D., amongst the tribute offerings sent from Khutan were vases de verre, and in the tribute of 541 A.D. was an image of Budha, carved in jade in some foreign country. In €32 A.D., the sixth year of the reign of Tae Tsung, Khutan sent as tribute a splendid jade zone, which the Emperor acknowledged wit^ a special letter of thanks. The State at this period appears to have considerably extended its borders, for it is described as including the regions known under the Han dynasty as Jounglou, Kanmi (Khdmil), Kiule (Kurla), and Pich&n. Its rivers were noted for their jade, which was discovered by its shining in the water at night. It was fished out by diving, after the subsidence of the floodisi produced by the melting of the snows on the mountains. The description qf the country in the annals of this reign goes on to say that the people were Budhists, ceremonious and polite, and distinguished as clever artificers. They were fond of music and dancing, and the enjoyments of life generally. In the deserts to the west was found a species of rat, the size of a hedge- hog, which travelled in troops and yielded a gold coloured fur. This little animal, I may here note, has probably long since been exterminated by the fur hunters, for it is not now known in the country. The only animal approaching its description found there at the present day is the jerboa. There was neither silk here formerly nor the mulberry tree. Both were introduced by an Eastern Princess, who secreted their seeds in her bonnet when she went as bride to the King, who had long vainly sought to get possession of them by other means. The letters, literature, and laws of Khutan are derived from the Hindus, and their influence has been to civilize the people. The ancient name of Khutan is Kiusa-tan-na from the Sanskrit Kustana, which signifies " Pap of the world,'^ in connection with the Hindu legend regarding ( 114 ) the importation of the Brahma creed to this region. The other names under which R,K. Khutan appears in Chinese writings are luthian^ lu-ton^ lu-siun^ Hou-an-nai Khiou-tan, and Hou-tan or Hotan. In the reign of Kao-tsong^ 650-655 A.D., an expedition under Assena Cheni against the Kouei-tseu of Beshbaligh terrified all the States on the western frontier^ and Fou-che-siu^ the King of Khutan^ went in person to the capital with a tribute- offering of three hundred camels. He was well received and granted the title of ^^ General of the Right/' whilst his son was appointed " Commander of the Cavalry of the Righf After a detention of some months he was sent back to his govern- ment^ but his son and younger brothers were detained as hostages at the Imperial Court. In 665 A.D. the Koung-youei of Kishghar and the Tibetans made a joint attack on Khutan and Sitcheou, but the places were delivered from them by the aid of the " General of the Left/' whose Government was most probably, I may here note, at Alm&ligh on the north of the Tian-shan range. About this period envoys with tribute were sent more frequently and regularly, and in 717 A.D., the fifth year of Yuan Sung, presented, amongst other native products, a wild camel " swift as the wind.'' In 760 A.D. the son of the King of Khutan, who was an officer in the Emperor's palace, was made administrator of his native country. And again in 780 A.D., the first year of Kian Chang, an officer of the palace was sent to Khutan for iu=i" jade" ornaments. He made a great collection, and, loading the precious freight on camels, set out on his return, but was misled on the route, and plundered by his ruffianly Hoi-he guides. He himself managed to escape to £u-cheu, where he died from the effects of the hardships endured on the journey. It was long after this period that these prized objects of art, hitherto only attainable by royalty and nobi- Uty, began to reach China as articles of commerce. In 938 A.D., the third year of Kao-tsu, of the second Tsin dynasty, the King of Khutan, Li-ching-thian, sent with his tribute red salt, native gold, li=" y£k" or wild ox tails, i«=jade, and cotton-cloth. The Emperor in return sent a high court official, Kao-khiu-hoei, to notify his confirmation in the Government of ^^ the very precious^' kingdom of Khutan. He journeyed by the Chachan route, found the King dressed in the Chinese fashion, and the religion Budhism. He noted that the country produced several good kinds of wine; that the people cultivated gardens and flowers ; and that they ate rice cooked with honey. He observed, too, that there were many Tibetans in the country, and that they were always at hostilily with the natives. In 961 A.D. the Khutan tribute included jade and crystal ; and ten years later an elephant captured in war against K&hghar ; most likely, I may here note, in the war against Sultan Satec Bufi^hra Khan, King of K^shghar, the first notable convert te the doctrine of Muhammad in this region, and its most violent propagandist, as will appear further on. In 1081 A.D. the tribute from Khutan comprised pearls, coral, ivoiy, camphor, and mercury; all for the first time now sent, and indicating an increase of trade with India. Four years later, a live tiger, captured in the country, accompanied the tribute for the Emperor's acceptance ; but as no body about the palace could be found te manage the savage brute, the offering was declined. Later, in 1406 A.D., during the Ming dynasty, Khutan, whose King was now entitled He-han=Kho-han=Kh^c£n, sent Envoys with tribute; and in the annals of the reign, recording this fact, the country is described as a royal kingdom which, from the time of the Han dynasty to that of the Sung, has not ceased te be ^ rapport with China. In 1420 A.D. Khutan, Haliei, and Patahechang=Badakhshin, sent horses as tribute. At this period such embassies from the extreme frontier States were of very frequent occurrence owing to the facilities they afforded for smuggling merchandize through the frontier Custem-Houses. Their real object, as a mere cloak for purposes of trade, was soon recognized by the Chinese Government, and, since the large number of foreigners entering the country in the train of the Envoys gave rise to ( 115 ) R.K. numerous disputes^ and muoh inconvenience^ orders were issued for placing them under severe restrictions ; and the operation of these r^ulations soon led to their discontinuance. Towards the close of the Youan dynasty^ about the middle of the fourteenth century^ the country was disturbed by anarchy^ and the trade route remained closed till the restoration of order in the beginning of the following century^ when trade again flowed in the old channels. It was the re-opening of the commercial intercourse which had been closed for half a centuiy^ and the insecurity attending the journey by caravan at firsts that led to the device of the trading embassies abovementioned. I have introduced the preceding notes on the histoiy of Khutan^ as furnished by Chinese records^ because they serve in some measure to dispel the general obscurity that veils the course of events in this region during the long period of its rule under the Chinese Governors^ and, subsequently, under the petiy independent Princes who had thrown off their subjection to that Empire ; and because they help to eluci- date and confirm the later history of the region, which only begins to clear up on the arrival of the Arabs in the fertile and populous valley of the Oxus, when the chain of events becomes more connected witli the succeeding establishment of their rule and religion there. The astonishing successes of these wild sans of the desert in their conquering career through Persia were hardly more wonderful than the rapid domination of their arms, and its concurrent supremacy of creed in the very heart of Asia. So early as the 58rd year of the J7it^>a=673 A.D., the Kh^lif M^u^wya sent forward his General, 'Abdulla Ziy6d, to the conquest of Khur^s&n, which at that period included BvJsh&ri, notwitiistanding its position beyond the Oxus, the recognized ancient limit of the province. N. The city of Bukhiri, which in ancient times was known by the names of Namajkat, and Barmaskat, and Cuhnduz, was at this period in the hands of a Turk Prince called Baydon^ and entitled Bukhkr-Khid^t. He died about the time of the appearance of the Arabs on the borders of ELhudfsiln, and was succeeded in the Government by his widow, the Queen KhAton, who reigned fifteen years during the infancy of her son Tughsh^da. She was celebrated alike for her beauty, wealth, and talents, and, as history records, for her amours. Her rule was popular, her Court magnificent, and her we^th prodigious. She is described as daily riding out from her palace to her Court in the Begist4n, forenoon and afternoon, attended by a gorgeous retinue of slave-girls and eunuchs, for the transaction of public business, the dispatch of justice, and the distribution of rewards and punishments. In the interval between the two sessious she retired to her palace, whence long files of servants presently issued with trays of food and delicacies for the refection of her courtiers. The royal guard at the Court comprised a choice band of two hundred noble youths, all richly dad and fully armed, who came in rotation daily from the townslups around, so that it fell to tiie lot of each to attend the Court on this duty four times in the year. It was during the reign of this Queen that the Arabs first crossed the Jyhon or Oxus. The rapid approach of 'Abdulla Ziy^ with his terrible warriors filled the people with apprehension and alarm. Queen Kh&ton sent off messengers in hot haste for aid from Turkistan, north and east, and meanwhile sought to keep off the invader by rich gifts and sweet words. Her summoned allies arrived opportunely, and at once fell upon the enemy, who was already in the suburbs of the capital spreading fire and sword amongst the unwarlike and terrified farmers. The Arabs were now vastly outnumbered by the hosts of their assailants, but the impetuous fury of their warriors counterbalanced the paucity of numbers, and the Turk army in this their first encounter with the soldiers of the west received an unexpected check, and defeat. 'Abdulla captured Bekand and Il&metan, and then set siege to Bukhiri. The Queen, who had esc^>ed from the battle field with the loss of a richly bejeweUed boot; valued at 10,000 diram, fortified herself in the citadel^ whilst her allies from ai ( 116 ) without pressing around^ the Arab Commander was content to retire on payment of N. a million diram, and recrossed the Oxas^ carrying away with him 4^000 captives. For his failure at Bukh&ri^ 'Abdulla Ziy^d was removed from the command in Khur^s^ in 56 H.=676 A.D.^ and S&id bin Uthmin appointed in his place. He immediately renewed the campaign against Bukhir^. Again her allies rallied round the Queen with a host of 120^000 men collected from all Turkistan and Kishghar^ but^ in their first encounter with the Arabs^ they were seized with a panic and dispersed in confusion. The Queen offered to buy off the invader with most liberal terms^ but S^aid left the money in her keeping for safe custody till his return from Saghd^ whither his victorious troops were pursuing the fugitives to Samarcand^ and meanwhile took eighty hostages as security. Amongst these^ the historian records^ Queen Khiton got rid of some obnoxious nobles who had spoken disparag- ingly with reference to her familiarity with one of the late King's domestics, and had threatened to oust the bastard Tughsh&da in favour of a legitimate Prince. S'aid, on his return from Samarcand, and departure for Khuris&n^ carried these hosts^^ away with him^ together with a thousand other captives taken in the war. They were idtimately taken to Medina^ and there set to Ull the land as slaves^ but, rising in rebeUion, they killed S^aid, and were themselves slain in revenge. M^u&wya was succeeded as Eh&lif by his son Yazid. He appointed Muslim bin Ziy&d Viceroy of Khurdsin, and he at once proceeded with vigour to prosecute the war across the Oxus. On this Queen Kh&ton sent her agents abroad to summon her alUes, and by way of determining the hesitation of Tarkhon, the Prince of Saghd, who had so severely suffered at the hands of S^aid, sent him a proposal to share her bed, and the government of the country, on conditions that he came and drove back the Arabs. Tempted by the offer, he joined the army coming from Tarkis- tdn under Bandon, the Malik or Prince of that country, and with it camped on the Kharc&m Bud River in the vicinity of the city. But the Queen in the interim had opened the gates to Muslim, and submitting herself to him secured, by the grant to him of the favours she had offered to others, a measure of leniency for her followers and subjects that excited surpise, and brought no little ridicule upon the rough Arabian soldier's susceptibility to the charms of the sex. The allies, however, disapproving the Queen's conduct, attacked the Arabs with all their force, but were discomfited with the loss of 400 slain, and their leader, Malik Bandon, amongst the number. They rallied, however, under Malik Tarkhon, and renewed hostilities till the invaders, finding it Unsafe to remain longer without support, were content to exact a profession of Isldm, and a heavy indemnity; on the payment of which they again retired across the Oxus. Following this Kutaiba bin Muslim was appointed Viceroy of Ehur^in. He continued the war against Bukhir&, and conquered all Tokh&rist&n. He crossed the Oxus in 88H.=707 A.D. to Bekand, which he took after a siege of fifty-days, and, leaving a garrison under Warca to hold it, marched on towards the capital. The Arabs left behind, following the example of their commandant, who had laid violent hands on the two beautiful daughters of one of the most influential Chiefii of the place, worried the citizens so by their lawlessness that they rose in revolt, and slew Warca and many of his men. On hearing of this Kutaiba hastened back, and took a summary vengeance by a general massacre of all those capable of bearing arms, and the plunder and destruction of all their temples. He sacked the town, and levelled its walls, and, finally, carried off the survivors captive in his army, amongst the soldieiy of which they were distributed. At the time of this destruction of Bekand many of its most wealthy merchants and other heads of families were absent on their trading business at E^shghar and the cities on the Chinese frontier ; and when they returned, they sought out and ransomed their families, their wives, and their daughters from the Arab captors, and rebuilt their ancient town upon its rains. The circumstance is noted as a remarkable occurrence, owing to the rapidity with which a town of such extent, and so thoroughly ( 117 ) N. destroyed, was restored to its former comfort and prosperity; and^ whilst it is certaml J indicative of the persevering industry and enterprise of the people^ suggests the possession of wealth and the existence of an extensive and profitable trade with China. In the plunder of this prosperous commercial town Kutaiba took a vast store of gold and silver, and, amongst other valuables, two rare pearls, each the size of a pigeon's egg, found in one of the idol temples. These last he sent as an offering to Haj&j with the letter announcing his victory. The Khilif in acknowledgment gracefully expressed his astonishment more at the rarity of his General's honesty than of his precious offering. After the destruction of Bekand, the Arabs successively reduced Ehabnon, F&r&b, and Ward&na; and then Kutaiba found himself surrounded, and cut off from communication with Khurisiln, by the numerous armies pouring in from the east and north to the aid of Bukhdrd. Amongst the leaders of these troops were Malik Tarkhon of Saghd,the Jand Ehid&t, and the Warddna Khidit, and MaUk Gormu- ghinon, Turk, who was sister's son of the Faff k/ur ^"Emperor of China. Kutaiba was thus hemmed in for four months, and was finally extricated from his difficulty by the address of one of his councillors — ^the Mauld Haydn Nabti, who opened a communication with Tarkhon, and so artfully played upon his fears, by representing in exaggerated terms the dangers that threatened him from the vast numbers of his foreign allies, that he soon succeeded in obtaining from him a nominal tender of submission with the payment of 2,000 diram as tribute, and thus effected a dissolution of the Turk confederation. The allies, finding that Tarkhon had retired from the field, broke from each other, and retraced their steps to their respective countries, plundering all the way; and the Arabs, thus set free, marched upon Bukhard, where they levied a heavy indemnity, and then returned across the O^us to Marv. Kutaiba made four successive campaigns against Bukhdrd, with whose deposed Queen he carried on an amour, that has supplied the historians of the time with many amusing anecdotes. His last campaign was in 94H. = 712 A.D., when he established Tughshdda in the government, and faed the yearly tribute at 40,000 diram for the Kl^f, and 10,000 diram for the Amir of Ahurdsdn. At this time, too, owing to the habitual relapsing of the people from the newly enforced faith to their old idola- tary, he distributed his Arabi9 amongst the citizens — one in each household — ^the more effectually to convert the people by example and to teach them the rites and doctrines of the new religion. He ordei^ed also that they should share equally with the family in food and raiment, to be supplied free of cost at the expense of the town. These measures proved extremely distasteful to the citizens, who naturally at first opposed them ; but the force of summary and severe examples speedily cowed them to submission, though 700 families of a sect called Kashkasha, who are des- cribed as a wealthy mercantile community, abandoned their dwellings in the city, and formed a settlement of huts outside its walls. These in the course of years g^w into a suburb called afterwards Kosh Mughan^" Dwelling of fire-worhippers." It is probable, I may here note, that these Kashkasha (query Zo^^M^a^ Christian priest) were Christians, and not, as the name afterwards given to their settlement would imply, Zoroastrians, because in this last campaign Kutaiba destroyed every emblem of idolatry in the place, and on the site of the great idol temple built the Jumd Masjid or Friday Mosque, whilst he suppressed any outward signs of adherence to idolatry by the only arguments known to Islam, by aeath or tribute. V. B. In the year following this settlement of Bukhdrd, Kutaiba invaded the province of Farghdna, and thence crossing the Tirik Dawdn or ^^ Sweating Pass" into Kdshghar — at that time occupied by the tJighiir — ran his expedition as far as Turfdn on the Chinese frontier of Kdnsuh. Here he received intelligence of the death of the Khdlif Walid, and consequently, retracing his steps, returned to Marv where he was killed in a plot by his enemies at the end of 98H.=716A.D., aged 47 years. ( 118 ) The new convert TnghsMda^ who was appointed Bukh^r-Khidit by Eutaiba^ in N. gratitude for the favour^ named his first bom son after his patron. This Eutaiba bin Tughshiida was in after years executed at Samarcand by Abu Muslim^ in the time of Nasr bin Sayyar, the Viceroy of Ehurds&n^ for apostacy and rebellion in joining the insurrection of the Shia against the Sunni^ which marked the early rivalry of these great Muhammadan sects in the early period of their progress here. And ten years later^ Tughsh^a himself^ who had always been but a doubtful convert, was assassina- ted at the instigation of the same Abu Muslim in the presence of Nasr^ who was at that time at Samarcand ; and the historian records that his servants coming in cut the flesh from the body and carried away the bones to Bukhiri. Nasr SayyiLr^ at this period^ subjugated Farghilna^ and pushed an expedition across the pass into E^shghar^ but without any more stable result than a useful reconnoissanee of the country. Tughshida^ at the time of his deaths had reigned 82 years^ and was succeeded in the government of Bukhir^ by his second son, Suk^n^ who was assassinated in his palace at Farakhsha by his Arab Wazir on account of his relapse to idolatry and drunken habits. His brother^ Bany^t, then became Bukhir-Ehidit. He joined the rebellion of the Sufed JamaAydn=:'^WlAi:e dads/' the followers of the ^'Veiled Prophef^ or Mucanna^ in the time of the Ehalif Mahdi^ and was captured and slain in his pala^ at Warkhshi in 166H.=782 A.D. In that year Abul 'Abb^s was appointed Viceroy of Ehur^sin by the Ehilif Mahdi, the &ther of the famous Hanin Arrashid. He held his Court at the then capital of the province — Marv^ and received many complaints of the frequent inroads of the pagan Turk upon the Saghd and Bukhilri lands. They had recently raided Simdun and carried off many of its people into slavery^ and a deputation of the Chiefs consequently went to Marv to represent their grievance and seek protection. Abiil 'Ahhis consmted them as to the b^ means of providing against the evil, and on the suggestion of Yazid bin Ohorak^ Malik of Saghd, who said that an ancient Princess of the country had protected her territories from such inroads by a great barrier wall built along the frontier, gave orders for the construction all along the frontier of a defensive wall, with a gate and turret at every half mile. The wall was at onc« commenced by Amir Muhtahid bin Hamadi, the Governor of Bukh&rd^ and was finished in 215H.= 830 A.D., when Amir Muham- mad bin Mansur was the Governor. It was maintained in repair by the labour of the people till the time of the Amir Ism&il Sdmini, who relieved them of the burthen, and the wall then soon fell to neglect and decay. After the death of Bany&t the government of Bukh&ri fell to the hands of successive members of the family. The last of the Bukh&r-Ehiddt was Abii Ish&k, bin Ibr&him, bin Ehilid, bin Banydt^ from whom the government passed into the hands of the S&m&ni family. The founder of this great family was a Zoroastrian of the village of S&m&n, and traced his descent from the celebrated Bahr&m Chobin. He had been ousted from the government of Balkh, and sought redress at the hands of the Viceroy of Ehu- T&B&u, Asad bin 'Abdulla. He restored him to the government on his professing Isldm, and the Sdm&ni, in proof of his sincerity and gratitude^ named his first son after his patron and friend. This Asad had four sons, viz., Ndh^ Ahmad, Yahy&^ and Ily&, who all subsequently took prominent positions in the government. When Bafi bin Laith of Sist&n seized Samarcand, Hdrun Amslud sent Harithma bin Ay&n with an army against him. He failed^ however^ to recover the city, and Mdmiin — at this time joining H&run in Ehur&s&n — called on the sons of Asad to aid his General. They in consequence intervened^ and effected a settlement between Rafi and Harithma^ and thus pacified H4run^ who feared the loss of all Ehurds^n. Shortly after this H&run died at Tus=Mashhad, and Mimiin succeeded as Eh&lif . He appointed 'Asd bin ^Ub&d Viceroy of Ehur&s&n, and bid him provide for the sons of Asad in reward for their good service. Accordingly Nuh was made l^: ^"v: 21.'— Varkundis. i 22.— The Pamir Mountains from Yangi Hissar and the Tagharma Peak. * : ..A At' \ » 1 r > * ' • J *' \ { • . , i ' * r • • ( 119 ) N. Oovemor of Samaicand^ Ahmad of Farghdna^ Yahya of Tiishkand^ and Ily&s of Herat On the death of Nuh in 192 H. = 807 A.D.^ Ahmad succeeded to the Goyemment of Samarcand^ and on his deaths 250 H. = 864 A.D.^ his son^ Nasr^ succeeded^ and^ on the first of Ranuizdn in the following year, was appointed Viceroy of the newly-constituted province of M&wardnahar^ or TransoxLana, by the Khalif W&thicBaiah. In the revolt of Yakub bin Laith of Sist&n, Nasr^ aided by his younger brother^ Ismiiil^ recovered Bukh&r& from the rebels and in B4unaz£n 260 H. = 878 A.D. appointed him its Oovemor. By this victory Nasr established his authority over all Turkist&n^ and in the same year received, from the Kh41if Muwaffic Billah, a new patent, appointing him Viceroy of M4war&nahar, from the Jyhon or Oxus to Acsd-i- Bil&d-i-Mashric or '^ The extreme cities of the East/' The two brothers after this quarrelled, and each had the Khutba=^^ Friday prayer for the reigning family,'^ read in his own name, and Ismi^ further withheld the revenue of 50,000 diram due yearly from Bukh&r&. On this Nasr at Samarcand summoned his brothers from Farghina and Tdshkand with their troops and Turk levies, and marched against Bukh&r& in Rajah 272 H.= winter of 885-6 A.D., but, before coming into collision, they were reconciled by Harithma, who had crossed the Oxus on the ice to the aid of Ismkil, and now persuaded them all to return to their respective Governments ; a step they were the more ready to adopt on account of the severe losses they had experienced in men and cattle from the intense cold and scarcity of supplies. Three years later, however, the brothers again broke into hostilities, and Nasr, marching against Bukh4r4, was met and defeated by Ism^Q at Dih W^z on Tuesday, 15th Jamddi Akhir 275 H. = 888 A.D. On this occasion Nasr fell into the hands of Ismkil who, treating him with an unlooked-for deference and respect, begged his speedy return to his own Government, lest the people bearing of his disaster should rise in revolt against him. Nasr lauded his brother's magnanimity in t^aro, and avowing that he had expelled from his heart all feeling of animosity against him, hastened back to Samarcand, where he died four years later. Ismail now advanced and took possession of Samarcand, and from that as a base prosecuted a ^^a2:i^='^crescentade'' on the Turk frontier. In 280 H.=893 A.D. he captured and annexed Tariz=Turkist&n, a populous and wealthy frontier city that had long been frequented as a mart of exchange by Turk, • Christian, Muhammadan, and Chinese merchants, and, exacting a general profession of IsUm converted its great Kalmya=:" Christian Church^' into a " Friday Mosque,'' in which he had the khuiba read in the name of the Khalif M'utasid Billah, and finally returned to Bukhdrd laden with a rich plunder. Whilst he was engaged in this '' meritorious" war for the difflusion of Isl^m, IsmMl, in Muharram 280 H., received a patent from the Khdlif confirming him as Viceroy in succession to Nasr. Its arrival was opportune, and stimulated the Muslims to the success^ above indicated, and to less successful efforts to force the creed across the passes to the eastward ; in which direction the way for the Faith was prepared by the persuasive eloquence of their merchant Missionaries years before its forcible establishment at the point of the sword. Seven years of active religious propagandism on the Turkist&n frontiers had elapsed, when Ismkil, who during this period had acquired an undefined sort of authority over the States of K&shghar, was involved in the war against 'Umro Laith, whom, after a short and decisive campaign, he captured at Balkh, 288 H.=90i A.D., and two years later sent prisoner to Baghdad. For this service he received from the Khalif M'utasid Billah a fresh patent of sovereignty over the countries of Khurfadn to the frontiers of Sind and Hind, and M&war4nahar and Turkistfin. Following this he prosecuted a campaign in Tabarist&n, and annexing the province returned to Bukh&r&, 291 H.=903-4 A.D., the sovereign of an empire that extended from Bay, Cazwin, Ispahan^ and Shir&z on the west to the vallies of the Ti&n-sh&n on the a 2 ( 120 ) east^ and from the borders of the great desert on the north to the Persian Gkdf N. on tiie south. Ismail Sdm&ni was a just and firm ruler^ and^ though a sincere Muhammadan^ a liberal patron of his native literature ; and during his reign the Persian language was revived in its former purity^ after two centuries of suppression by the Arabs. After a prosperous and glorious rule of thirty years^ the last eight as Viceroy of Khur^is&n and Milw^^nahar^ he sickened^ and died at Zarm&n, whither he had been carried for change of air^ on the 15th Safar 295 H.s=907 A.D. He is known in history as the Amir M^i=past Prince. His son, Ahmad, succeeded to the throne. He subdued a revolt in Sist&n, and on his return, whilst on a hunting excursion on the banks of the Jyhon, received intelligence of the revolt of Tabarist&n. The news so disturbed his ndnd that it disarmed his usual precaution, and the tiger, habitually chained at the entrance to his chamber as a guard at night, was on this occasion forgotten ; and his slaves, seizing the opportunity, entered and beheaded him, at the instigation of one of his own family, on Thursday, 11th Jamadi AkAir 801 H.= 913-4 A.D. He reigned six years and four months, and is called Amir Shahid= martyr Prince. Abul Hasan Nasr, his son, succeeded at the age of ten years. His reign Was disturbed by revolts in the western provinces, and noted for a conflagration at the capital, which lasted three days, Rajab 325 H.=9S6 A.D., and was seen at Samar- cand. The greater part of the city was destroyed, together with the palace, full of treasures and rarities of art, which all perished in the flames. Bukh^£ has never since, it is said, recovered its former magnificence. Abul Hasaii Nasr died after a reign of thirty-one years m,8habdn 331 H. = 942 A.D. He is caUed Amir S&id = prosperous Prince. His son, Niih, succeeded. His reign was disturbed by anarchy, and a serious revolt at Marv. Order was not restored till 841 H.=952 A.D., and he died, having reigned twelve years, a couple of years later in Babi Akhir 343 H. He is called Amir Hamid= laudable Prince. He was succeeded by his son, 'Abdul Malik, aged ten years, who reigned seven, and was killed by a fall from horseback at the game Chaugcm^**\iock^&f' in SAaiodl 350 H.=961 A.D. He is called Amir Rashid= intelligent Prince. His brother, Mansur, succeeded, but was at first opposed by Ulaptakin, the Governor of Nish^bor, who seized Balkh. He relinquished this " material guarantee,'^ however, and consented to the succession, on the tribute of 50,000 diram being paid, as before, to Nish^bor. Mansur, on the other hand, subsequently exacted from the Dailami or Dilami Chief of Fars and Ir^ a similar annual tribute. He died after a disturbed reign of fifteen years and five months on Sunday, the 16th Muharram 365 H. = 976 A.D., and is called Amir Shadid= impetuous Prince. His son, Nuh, caUed Amir S^id Abdl E&im, succeeded. His reign was charac- terised by general anarchy and confusion. The border province revolted, and the Sam^ni power quickly declined. Abti Ali Samchor, the Governor of Khur js^n, revolted, and joining with Faik, the deposed Governor of Herat and Balkh, invited Bughra Eh^n, Chief of the Uighdr Tartar of E&hghar, to attack Bukh^. This he did, and, driving Abul E^sim out, took possession of his capital. He did not long enjoy his success, however, for he almost immediately sickened with a fever, and, hastening to regain his native air, died a few stages out from the city. His army retraced its steps to Farghana and E^hghar, and Abul Eiisim on its departure returned to his capital, and, recovering his power, drove his refractory nobles out of the country into Ehur^is^n. Here they raised a strong party, and, securing the aid of the Dilami Prince, renewed their hostility. Abtil E^sim, on this, unable alone to cope with their combined forces, called to his aid Subuktakin, the newly esta- blished independent Prince of Ghazni, and with him attacked and routed the rebels at Herat. After this Abdl E&sim was forced once more to seek the aid of Subuktakin against a threatened attack by the rising lylik Ehan, son of Bughra Ehan, at the instigation of the restless Faik. On this occasion the threatened ( 121 ) N. invasion was staved off^ and Faik provided for by the Government of Samarcand. Peace did not long endure^ for on the death of Abul K&sim a contested succession, and intestine broils soon led to the division of the S^nUlni empire, or what remained of it, between the two, great Tartar Chiefs of the time, between Mahmtid, the son of Subuktakin of Ghazni, and lylik Khan, the son of Bughra Khan of Kashghar. The latter, who had extended his possessions to Khiva or Khwdhrizm, now seized Bakh&r£, and taking prisoner Abdul Malik, the last reigning Prince of the S£m4ni dynasty, sent him to his capital at Orgenj, where he died. P. It \«rill be seen by the preceding sketch of the history of the Muhammadan power during the first three centuries of its rule in Mdwar&nahar, that it from the very commencement, notwithstanding the opposition the Arabs here experienced, and the check the rapid progress of their arms {hrough Persia here received, made its weight felt upon the independent States of Turkistan to the north and east ; and thus acquired a steadily growing influence, which aided, as it materially was, through the channels of trade, in after times facilitated the spread of the faith and rule over those wide regions, whence the former ultimately penetrated to, and took root in the furthest limits of the Chinese Empire ; where it has so flourished that in our own day we find it aspiring to seize the supreme control of the Government, and the sovereignty of the country, a struggle that is still proceeding at this day. The first expedition of Kutaiba along the southern skirts of the ^lah Tfigh, or Tiansh&n, or Tangri Ula, or God Mountains, as they are called in Arabic, Chinese, Mongol, and English respectively, the ^^ Celestial Mountains'' of European Orientalists, up to Turf&n, opened the way to Isl^; and the next expedition of Nasr bin Sayy&r kept it so, till, in the time of the native S&m&nl rule, the relations thus commenced were naturally more freely extended and improved, and presently, 260 H. = 873 A.D., led to the subjugation of the country in the reign of Nasr, the first Prince of that dynasty, which on the decline of the Khilifat or Khfilifat rose to divide the Persian soil with the Dilami. The nature of this subjugation, however, appears to have been more nominal than repJ, and, in the absence of an absolute authority, the creed made but little general progress against the quiet and resolute opposition of the Budhists and Chris- tians; and this even in the cities where its forcible profession was more easy of accomplishment ; whilst in the rural districts and nomad camps it found no footing whatever. , We find, indeed, that Isl&m was not even nominally established in the country till nearly the last quarter of the next centuiy, when a Prince of the hereditary ruling family of Bughra Khan at Ki(shghar, becoming a convert to the faith, enforced it upon his subjects at the point of the sword, in the face of a determined and protracted opposition which prevented its spread beyond the limits of his own territory and immediate authority. It was only now, on the downfall of the S&m&ni dynasty, that Isl&m, through the proselitizing zeal of the successors of that family— of Mahmud in the direction of Hindustan, and of lylik Khan in the direction of Turkistan — received a fresh impetus, and was extended south, east, and north with a rapidity only equalled by the violence employed, and with an endurance not less remarkable. T.B.K. The account of the first introduction of this religion into K&shghar, as given in the Tazkira Bughra Khan, which is a history of the Islamite martyrs and saints in this country translated into Uighur Turki from the original Persian by Shekh Attar, is an absurdly distorted figment of the preisthood built upon a foundation of fact. The eighth chapter of this book is devoted to the history of Abti Nasr Sdm&ni, at whose hands, it is said, the Prince above alluded to was converted ; and as its style is characteristic, I here introduce a summarized version of it. ^* Abu Nasr Sfim&ni was a very devout and holy man, and versed in all sorts of kingly knowledge. He was virtuous and gentle, and a strict Musalman, who never diverged from the way of the law of the Prophet. He was a merchant, and devoted all the profits of his trade to charity amongst the Musalm&ns, of whom he fed and ( 122 ) clothed the destitute and homdesB. One day he pnrposed starting on a journey to T.B.K replenish his funds and extend the ^here of his charities^ but tiie Prophet oame to him in a vision^ and bid him postpone his departure till such time as he should appoint, when he would also indicate the direction he should take. Abu Nasr^ greatly rejoiced and highly honored by the Prophet's favour^ abandoned his proposed journey, and for six years devoted himself to the service of God and the performance of religious exerdses* At the end of this time the Prophet again appeared before him, and bid him prepare for a journey to Turkist&n, where was a chosen servant of Ood, one Sittuk Boghra Khan, who would convert the people to IsUlm. Abu Nasr, again, for six years devoted himself to the rigid worship of God, and was aided, comforted, and supported by the pure spirit of the Prophet who, at the end of this time, once more visited him in a trance, and giving him his blessing bid him rise, and depart for Turkistan. Abu Nasr took his son, Khwajah Abiil Fatt£h, and set out on his way, and, going from citf to city, arrived at Andijin. Everywhere he asked for S£tuk fiughra Khan, and at last a certain person informed him that a youth of that name resided at K^hghar, and was notorious on account of his wisdom, for, though as yet but a mere child, none of the elders and wise men could controvert his speech. From Andijan Abu Nasr set out with a caravan of three hundred merchants, and after acme days arrived at K&hghar, where he found the object of his search, and, after a short conversation, brought him into the fold of IsUm. Abu Nasr devoted ten years to the instruction and conversion of Sitnk, and in this period made seven thousand of the people Musalmans, and taught seventy of them to be priests. He lived eighty years, and followed the teachings of the '^ Commander of the Faithful'^ Abiibakar Sadie, and attained to the dignity of Uwaisy which is a spiri- tual quality inferior to that of Prophet, but superior to that of Saint. He also towards the end of his life attained to the rare quality of Cutub, and became endowed with all knowledge both visible and invisible, temporal and spiritual. The number of this special rank is limited to forty at any one time throughout the world. Shekh Najmuddin Att&r was the first to discover that Abii Nasr had attained this exalted dignity. The new Ouiub now retired from the world, and spent six months in seclusion as an ascetic. At length one day Cdbiz-ul-arwdk = " the seizor of souls,'' that is the angel Isr&il, appeared and bid him restore his soul to God. " Take me,'' said Abu Nasr, ^' My wish is to go to God. I have no business with this earthly frame." He drew his mantle over him, and, stretching his legs out straight, faced towards Mecca. His servants, surprised at the unusual attitude, drew near, and, finding him dead, broke into loud wails and sore laments. They informed his son, Abiil Fatt&h, and his adopted child, S^tuk Bughra Khan, and they all assembled, and mourned over the corpse. A disciple asked of S&tuk, who was to wash the body. He replied '^the body itself knows." That disciple knelt by the corpse, and repeated the question. And* a voice from its chest said ^^et Najmuddin, with my sons, wash me." They accordingly washed and laid out the body, and buried it at Mashhad in Artosh 350 H. = 960 A.D. The funeral was attended by 10,700 common people, and the prayers were recited by 5,000 dervishes and ascetics." Such are the most noteworthy points in the history of Abu Nasr S^on^ni, as given in this eighth chapter of the book above mentioned. The following diapter gives the history of Hazrat Sultan Satuk Bughra Khan Ghazi, and may be summa- rised in this wise : — '' Hazrat Sultan Satuk Bughra Khan Ghazi was bom in 833 H. = 944 A.D. At the age of twelve years he acoq)ted Islam, and was the first convert in Turkistan. On the day of his birth, though it was midwinter, the earth quaked, and springs burst forth and flowed on the surface of the ground j flowers bloomed and trees budded. 'Rie wise men and elders were concerned at these signs of commotion in nature, and predicted the destruction of their religion by the new-bom Prince, and the establish- ment of Islam in place of their ancient natiw institutions. They consequently #-' f.-^ V 23.— Kirghiz Felt (Akoe) occupied by officers of the mission at Yangi Hissar. V I ^■ -.-m ■:' ) ' 1\ 24. — Soap, Tape, Oil and Sweetmeat Sellers of Yarkund. i.-iiS-i' ■\ . •J / . J ( 123 ) T.B.K. songht to kill him. The in^t^s mother bid them wait till he grew up^ and then to kill him if he turned Mufialm^n. S£tuk was six ^ears old when his father^ Tangri Kadir Bughra Ehan^ died (during an expedition against BukULri). His widowed mother and himself then passed to the protection of Hardn Bughra Khan^ the surviving brother and successor to the throne. He educated his nephew as an idolater till he' was twelve years old. At this time Satuk^ with forty attendants^ one day went out a hunting. A hare started from under a thorny bash^ and Situk^ bow in hand^ giving chafie^ got separated from the others. The hare now suddenly stopped^ and assumed the form of a man^ and thus addressed the youth z^-^" Come^ my son 1 I am waiting for you. God be praised ! I have found you alone. Come nigh me. I have a few words to say. Dismount.^' Satuk, amazed at what he saw and heard^ dismounted^ and knelt before the figure^ which speaking, said, " My son I Why continue in such idolatry ? You know that your Creator's name is Muhammad. Walk in his way.^' S&tuk considered within himself " What man is this who speaks thus ? There is no such perscMi here. Where does he come from?'^ Wondering in this fashion he turned to the figure and said^ " What have you been saying to me ? Oh venerable sageP' The figure replied, '^My son I Oh blessed youth! I wish not your tender body in hell fire. The thought grieves me.'^ S&tuk enquiring asked, *' Oh venerable sage ! What sort of place is hell P' And the sage replied, " My child I Hell is a place of much fire, and full of scorpions, where unbelievers and sinners are consigned, and tortured in all manners of ways.^' , Fear seized the heart o| S&tc^, and he said, '^ Speak 1 Venerable sage I I will repeat what you say.''' The sage pronounced the form of creed, ^^ there is no God but God, and Mahomed is the prophet of God.'' Si.tuk in return asked, '' What are these words, and what do they mean ?" The sage, ia answer, said, " My son 1 Repeat* ing these words you become a Musalm£n, and go to Paradise, where are beautiful maids and youths, and wine. Refusing them you go to hell, and suffer all its terrible torments." Sfituk thereupon repeated the creed, and accepted IsMm. The sage then informed him that there was much to learn as he grew up, and that his teacher would shortly arrive and conduct him into the perfect way. Some say that this sage was Dcydl-^ghaib Khoja Zinda, the Wazir or Minister of Iskandax Pidshih, and others that he was an angel; but the truth is, he was the prophet Khizr. And he suddenly vanished from the sight of the bewildered Situk, who was now rejoined by his attendants, from whom he kept the occurrence secret. Some days later Sdtuk again went a hunting with his forty attendants to the Uston Artosh or " Upper Artosh," and at Biicu found a caravan of well clad and highly favoured foreigners camped on the meadow. He drew nesur to see who they were, and one of their party, followed by a few attendants, came forward to meet him. This was Abu Nasr who, at once recognizing the object of his search, turned to his followers, and, praising God, told tiiem that the sole purpose of his journey was to meet this noble youth, and that now the whole desire of his heart was accom- plished. He bid them open their loads and bring out some offerings worthy the acceptance of the illustrious Prince. In the midst of this was heard the sonorous chaunt of the 'azAn or Muhamxnadan '^ call to prayer." The boxes and loads were instantly left open as they happened to be, and the strangers assembled round a leader to perform their devotions. Abu Nasr, on their conclusion, returned to S^tuk, whom he found dismounted, and standing lost in mute amazement. He approached and gave him the ^aldm, and then, respectfully embracing the noble vouth, invited him to his tent, where he presented some rarities as an offering of good-will. Situk accepted the presents, and asked the donor's name. On hearing it he at once knew him 9b '^the teacher" the prophet Khizr had spoken of, and he straightway sought an explanation of the extraordinary and impressive sight he had witnessed ; aflkmg what was the meaning of the prayers and genuflexions, and adorations which the whole company, leaving their property open and unguarded iu a strange place and foreign country^ had assembled to perform together. a 3 ( 124 ) Abii Nasr^ in reply^ briefly explained the tenets and ordinances of IsUm. He T.B.K. then described this world as transitory^ man as a frail beings riches as his bane^ and infidelity as the cause of his ruin. He expatiated on the delights and pleasures of Paradise^ and enlarged in comparison therewith upon the pains and torments of Hell. The one^ he told his listener^ was the reward of the Faithful who performed their five daily prayers ; the other^ he warned him^ was the punishment of the Infidel^ who neglected these prayers. S^tuk was gravely impressed by the speaker's words and earnest manner. A solemn awe took possession of his mind^ and he wished forthwith to be of the Faith- ful. Abu Nasr bid him repeat the creed after himself. He did so^ and straightway became a Musalmin. ^' Who is Muhammad 7" then enquired S^tuk. ^^ He is the friend of God^ and the guide to all people in the right way to eternity/' replied Abii Nasr. *' He saves them from HeU^ obtains God's pardon for their sins, and secures their entry into Paradise.'^ S&tuk was next taught the doctrines of the faith, and then, in the first promptings of his zeal for it, summoned his forty attendants, and invited iJiem to follow his example and become Musalm£ns. Some did so of their free-will, and others through fear of Situk's sword; but that same day they all accepted Isl&m, and became Musalm&n, and, returned to the palace, agreed to conceal the &ct for fear of the revenge of the infidels. During six months Sdtuk and his forty, stealthily by night, used to visit Abu Nasr, and from him learn the Kur&i, the prayers, and the ordinances of the religion^ and to worship God according to the law of Muhammad. At this time H^n Bughra Khan was troubled in mind by a dream he saw, in which he was seized and worried by a tiger cub. He assembled his wise men, priests, astrologers, and nobles, and consulted them as to its interpretation. They unanimously referred it to the apostacy of the King^s nephew, and agreed on the necessity of lolling him before he destroyed them and their religion. The mother of S£tuk here interposed, and demanded that her son should first be put to the proof, and if, as suspected, he turned out to be a Musalmitn, she would not oppose his execution. Her claim was acceded to as a just one, and it was decided to test the sincerity and loyalty of Situk by inviting him to lay the found- ation of an idol temple they were about to build. S&tuk, VTamed of this, consulted Abii Nasr as to how he should escape the difficulty before him. His teacher bid him be of good cheer, and told him that, where personal safety was imperiled, the per- petration of certain prohibited acts was lawful, and that in the case of himselE, provided he mentally avowed the foundations to be those of a mosque, the setting of the bricks would be an act meritorious in itself, and acceptable to God. Thus fortified, Situk attended the assembly of the Boyal Court, the grandees, nobles, priests, troops, and citizens at the time and place appointed, and, at the bid of H&run, stepped forward, and with all solemnity set the first brick of the idol temple, mentally, the while, considering it to be a mosque. At the third brick H&rdn, extending his arms, exclaimed " Hold ! My son I No need to labour more. My mind is at rest now. You are free to act as you please.^^ The assembly dispersed, and that same night Siltuk repaired to the residence of Abu Nasr, and asked how long it would be before they might openly acknowledge Islim. ^^ Thajb,^^ he replied, '^ is best known to yourself.^' S^tuk, on this, proposed to attack the idolaters immediately without further delay, content for himself to trust in God's aid for the victoiy. Abu Nasr applauded lus zeal, but pointed to the paucity of their numbers. S£tuk, nothing daunted thereby, now declared his resolve to at once make war upon the infidels, for his trust was in God, and, though few in numbers, their boldness would bring many to the standard of Islam. Seeing the zeal of his pupil for the cause Abu Nasr consented to his proposal. During six months, by converting two and three at a time, he had, on this night, about six hundred converts and followers about him, and it was decided that they should make their attack on the following night. Accordingly, Sitvk and Abu Nasr, and all the Musalm^ns set out together to surprise H&run in his palace. Arrived at the city walls, Abu Nasr stretched forth ( 125 ) T.B.E. his hands to Heaven and prayed " Oh God ! Of thy excellence and mercy vouchsafe victory to the Faithful^ and grant that a deep sleep oppress the infidel/' His prayer was answered^ and a profound slumber overpowered the idolaters. The Musalmans entered the palace^ took from the King's stables four hundred horses^ equipped them- selves with armour of his troops^ slew some of them as they slept at their posts^ and^ collecting a store of provisions^ issued from the city^ and marched off to Dava T£gh=Camel Hill, where they took up a position for war. The date of Hinin's death is 380 H.==991 A.jp. In the morning H^min^ enraged at the violation of his palace, moved out with an army of forty thousand men to attack the revolutionists. The fight lasted from the forenoon till sunset, and infidel blood flowed in rivers. Five thousand idolaters were sent to hell, and two Musalmiins were wounded. Next day six thousand men joined the army of Isl&n, and, taken two by two, and three by three, were made Musalmilns. The fight was resumed next morning, and continued for seven days and nights, with a terrible loss to the infidels, whose blood flowed in torrents. The victorious army of Islim grew daily by fresh accessions, and now numbered twelve thousand men. After some days, provisions ran short, the horses were worn out, and the men reduced to straits. The soldiers now grew discontented, and, complaining, demanded of Abu Nasr how long their hardships were to endure. " That is best known to yourselves'' he replied; and added — ''You will see what comes from God. All will be well." That same night he took a force of ten thousand men, all Musalmans, and set out to surprise H^nin. As before, on arrival at the city he prayed to God for victory to the Faithful, and confusion to the idolater. The infidels were sunk in so deep a sleep, that they knew not their hands and feet. S&tuk made his way into the palace, and found H&run sound asleep, with a lamp burning at his side, and a slave reclining thereby. He drew his sword to take his uncle's head, but was restrained by the consideration that it was unmanly to slay him in his sleep, and by the remembrance of ''the claims of his salt," for, though an infidel, he had been his protector and guardian for several years. He consequently roused him by a prod on the foot with the point of his sword, and offered to spare his life on his accepting IsUm. The haughty H^n, in wrath at his nephew's insolence, peremptorily refused, and began to upbraid his treachery and ingratitude ; but S&ixJs, cut short his reproof and his life by a single stroke of his sword, and, casting the severed head out of the window on to a dung heap, came out of the palace, and, taking possession of the city, at once proclaimed the establishment of himself as King, and of Isl&m as the religion of Kishghar. On this day, it is said, by the grace of God and the blessing of his Prophet, twenty thousand converts were added to the fold of the Faithful. S&tak warred against the infidels during the whole of his long reign, and acquired the honorable title of GMzi=i" Crescentader." His miraculous acts were many, but the two most notable were these : First, his sword, in its sheath, was like those used by other men, but when he drew it against the infidels, it lengthened to forty yards, and mowed down whole fields of them. Second, on ordinary occasions S&tuk was like other men, but when he warred against infidels, and charged their ranks, long flames of fire issued from bis mouth and consumed crowds of them. Other infidels, on seeing this terrible power, became terrified and flocked' to him to be made Musalmans. S&tuk was twelve and a half year's old when he first entered on war against the infidels. He used to fight them every summer, and spend the winter in the worship of Giod. By the time he was ninety-six years old he had subdued and converted to IsUm all the coimtiy from the Amu Daryd=Oxus, beyond Balkh and Cish or Kark, to Kar^oram in the north, and everywhere established the religion of Muhammad according to his 5Aami{=Law. P. The above statement, I may here note, would seem to identify S&tuk with lylik Kh^ or lylik Mazi, as he is usually styled, the son of the Bughra ELhan who has ( 126 ) been before mentioned as having invaded 'Bvlkh&ri, where he died in the reign of P. the Amir S&id Abul K^sim. This lylik M^zl, whose early seat was at Uzkand in the province of Farghana^ was the first T^rtfr Prince who brought the Uighur peopL^ together as a nation. And his empire extended from the shores of the Caspian on the west to the Desert of Gobi and the frontiers of China on the east. Towards the close of his reign, S^tok made an expedition to the borders of Khiti, and established IsUm over all the country up to Turf^n. Here he became ill, and T.B.E. was conveyed back to Kdshghar, where he lay sick a whole year and then died. In his last hours he summoned his friends around him, made his will ; committed his family and government to the chfurge of Abul Fattih, the son of .Abu Nasr, gave directions for his burial, and exhorted his sons to follow in his own steps, and adhere to the faith of the Prophet, and serve God truly. Then from a tray set before him he took a rose and smelled it, next he took an apple and ate it, and finally he took a goblet of sharbat and drank it. After this he stood up and repeated the creed, next he revolved in a circle three times, and sang a Persian couplet to the efEect that, " a drop taken from the ocean makes it none the less. A soul on quitting its body rends but its covering veil.^^ He then sat down and resigned his life with the close of day, 4S0 H.=1087 A.D. He was buried at Mashhad in Alton Arto^ or Lower Artosh, and the funeral was attended by two WaU=" Saint,^^ seventy thousand ^/i^=^Meamedmen'' or ''clergymen,'* twenty-two thousand 6^021/==" Crescentader/' and fifteen thousand Awwdm-un^^i^^^^ Common people.'* Such, omitting absurdities and miraculous incidents, is the history of the Prince P. who introduced IsUm at Ejdhigh», as given in the book mentioned at the outset of the quotation. It further states that his successor, Abul Fattdh, died three years later, and gives the following particulars regarding the &mily of Situk :— - Hazrat Sultan S^tuk Bughra Khan Ghizi left four sons and three daughters. T.B.K. The foxmer were Hasui Bughra Khan, Husen Bughra Khan, Yusuf K^dir Kh^Uj a^d . The latter were Nasab Turk£n Kh^nim, Hadya Turki,n Khanim, and Aid Nur Khdnim. The last was a lady noted for her beauty, piety, and chastity. Her history briefly is ihis, and resembles that of Hazrat Miryam=Lady Mary. Aid Nur Khdnim, on reaching the age of maturity, was (Hie night engaged in the worship of God, when the Angel Gabriel came to her and poured a drop of light into her mouth. It produced a feeling of comfort, and for a while she became insensible. After this, one night, she went out at the gate, and, se^g the figure of a tiger, &inted. Some months and days after this again, at the time of the " Friday prayers,'* on the 10th Muharram H., she gave birtii to a son with ruddy complexion, gazelle eyes, and sweet voice. The King was wrathful, and the people wondered, saying, " What manner of event is this ?** He ordered an investigation of the mystery, and the divines and priests, the judges and lawyers, the grandees and nobles, all assembled and examined Aid Nur Khanim. Her explanation was considered satis&ctory^ and she was pronounced innocent, and the boy, in reference to the apparition she had seen^ was named Syad Ali ArsMn Kh£n. He was brought up by his mother, and at the age of seven years betrothed to Toe Bubu, a daughter of Bughra Kh£n. She bore him three sons, viz,, Muhammad ArsUn, Yusuf AisUn, and Kizil ArsUn, and several daughters, one of whom married Syad JaUluddin, the son of Syad Bahduddin Sh£mi, and the others different Muhammadan divines of note. Hadya Turk£n Khdnim married Syad Jaliluddin, the son of Syad Alauddin, and bore him three sons and several daughters, from whom proceeded a number of K&shghar, T^kand, and Samarcand relationships. Sultan Hasan Bughra Khdn, with the title of Hazrat Padshah Ghazi, succeeded his father at Kishghar. In his reign the idolaters from Khutan, called also Chin- shahr, invaded K^hghar with an army of thiriy thousand men, under the leaders Bocta Rashid, Nucta Bashid, and Jagdlu Khalkhdlu of M&chin. They devastated several of its settlements, and for several montiis besieged the suburbs of the capital, and caused a famine in the country. At length Hasan, with his brother^ ( 127 ) T.B.K. Yusuf Kadir^ and nephew^ Ali ArsUn^ issued from the city with an anny of forty thousand men, and took the field against them. Bocta Bashid, the champion of the infidel army, came forward for combat, and Ali Arslin, on the side of the Faithful, advanced to meet him. Each was attended by his supporters, and as they closed in combat, the two armies joined in battle. A hard fight ensued till nightfalli when the Musalmins were forced to retire within the city, though they sent five hundred idolators to hell, in return for a few Musalmins of note, who left the scene of their earthly troubles for the joys and delights of Paradise. 'The battle was resumed next day, under the lead of Yusuf Kadir, and with a more decided success, for he routed the enemy with the loss of seven hundred killed and the whole of their camp, which was plundered by the victorious Musalmins. Following up this advante^, Hasan appointed Husyun Fyzulla, with a garrison of fifteen thousand men, to the charge of the city, and nominating Syad Jalnluddin as his minister, himself with fifty thousand men took the field in pursuit of the enemy, who had rallied and taken up a position on the Tdzghun river. A desultory and indecisive skirmish at nightfall left the hostile armies camped opposite to each other. Next morning, Hasan, having assembled the army, performed the prayers with great ceremony and all solemnity, and then appointing Yusuf Kadir to the charge of his camp went out to the battle. His heralds preceding blew their horns, and announced his royal titles and high lineage, and as he entered the field called for a champion from the other side worthy to meet the King. Jagtiu Khalkhilu of M^hm answered the challenge, and came out against him. Both armies en suite clashed in conflict, and after a hard struggle, witib success changing from side to side, the Khutan army was finally routed with great loss, and driven to retreat at Y&ngi Hissir. Ha^an now returned triumphant to Kiishghar, and celebrated his victory by public rejoicings, feastings, and largesses to the poor. But finding the infidels were still in force at Y£n^ Hiss4r, he raised an army of ninety thousand men and sent it, under tine command of Ali Arsl^n, to drive the enemy out of the country. Ali Arsljn and his host found the Khutan and Michin troops, thirty thousand men, strongly posted amongst the gravelly ridges of Bocsha-socsha, and Ortang Kar^ in the vicinity of Y&ngi Hiss^r. Several indecisive engagements followed with more or less encouraging success to the Musalm&n arms, and the K^shghar troops pressed closer around their enemy with each successive skirmish. Finally Jag&lu SLhalkh^lu, finding he could make no head against the superior numbers of his opponent, offered a rich reward in gold to any one who should devise a means of defeating and destropng Ali ArsMn, whose noted bravery and impetuosity in fight had inflicted considerable loss and dispirited his men. A poor and aged /<£^/»tf = Christian priest — at this period the Nestorian church was numerously represented all over the K^shghar territory, and for twt> centuries later the Christians held their own, and flourished side by side vrith their brethren of the rival, and subsequently dominant, faith, till their persecution and suppression by the Muhammadan rulers about the middle of the fourteenth century— who was in the habit of passing from one camp to the other came forward as a candidate for the offered rewaxA, The M^hin leader took the JdUic, from his mean and poverty stricken appearance, to be a hungry vagrant merely attracted by the value of tiie offered prize, and was inclined to dismiss him summarily, but the man's speech impressed him in his favour, and he gave him a hearing. The Jdtlie now disclosed his scheme to attack the enemy at daybreak, when they were less on the alert and more sleepy than at any other time, and assured Jag£lu Khalkhflu of success, provided he fell upon the Musalm^ns at the moment' they were engaged in the performance of their prayers, for they then laid aside their arms. Acc(ffdingly, on the 10th Moharram 489 H. =: 1096 A.D., at dawn of day, when the army of IsUm was engaged in prayer, the M^hm Commander fell upon the a4i ( 128 ) Musalm^ with the whole of his foree^ and routed them with immense slaughter. T.B.K. Ali ArsUn was killed and beheaded^ and the victors^ pursuing the vanquished^ chased them into E^shghar^ imder the walls of which they paraded the head of their victim^ the renowned hero and favourite champion of the Musalmdns^ and then oast it to the dogs. This hero martjrr has, consequently 9. two shrines erected to his memory. One at OnUun VAiahShy called also Kum SAaiiddn = " Martjrrs' Sands/' about fifty-six miles east of Yangi Hissdr, over his body where he was killed, and the other at Daulat B&gh, dose to Kdshghai: city, where his head is supposed to have been buried. The Khutan and Mdchin army invested E^shghar for several days and thoroughly devastated the suburbs. In one of the skirmishes during this time Ali Nur Kh^unm was killed. The account given in the book from which the preceding histoiy is taken runs much to this effect : — ^Al^ Nur Khinim, called also Bibi Miryam trom the circumstances attending the birth of Ali ArsUn, in the anguish of sorrow at the death of her son resolved to avenge his loss, and, accompanied by a body of her maids, rushed into the fray against the infidels. She slew twenty-five of them, and then, being overpowered, took to flight. The ground miraculously opened in her course, and disclosed some caverns, and she and her maids sought shelter in their recesses. Their pursuers, however, presently discovered them in their retreat, and put them all to death. The shrine of Bibi Miryam, it may be here noted, stands near a deep ravine about ten miles north by east from the city of Eishghar. It has been recently restored by the present ruler. Amir Muhammad Ydkub Khan, who has enclosed its sacred precincts, and built a substantial mosque and commodious college on its grounds, and appointed a suitable establishment of custodians, priests, and teachers for their respective services. After this disaster Hasan and his brothers, Husen and Yusuf K^r, performed the funeral ceremonies of the slain with solemnity and magnificence. Camels, horses, oxen, and sheep were slaughtered without stint, and the whole of K^hghar, great and small, rich and poor, were feasted. A fresh army of sixty thousand men was raised, and Hasan again took the field, and, after a succession of victorious engagements, drove the enemy into the hills at Koky&r. From this he returned by way of Y&rkand. The city submitted to him without resistance, and the people, coming out with their arms suspended from their necks in token of subjection, presented a rich array of gifts as peace-offering. Hasan halted here some time to settle the district and levy a contribution for his army. He then appointed Abdussamad of Kishghar his Governor over the city, and returned to his capital to enjoy a season of peace and plenty, now ushered in by this successful campaign. The country during tiiis period of rest became so prosperous and productive that one chdrak ^ twenty pounds weight of com, did not cost a single pul = a penny. Hasan Bughra Khan had reigned twelve years when Khoja Abdulla from Turkistin and Khoja Ab&bakar from T&hkand arrived over the Tirik Dawdn, as envoys, to seek the aid of Hasan in restoring order in their country. He forth- with assembled his army, committed K^hghar to the charge of Husyun FyzuUa Khoja and Abul K^im, K&hghari, as his Minister, and with his brothers, Hasan and Yusuf K&dir, and a great host set out for Turkistan. He spent the summer and winter there in subjugating the country, and in the spring celebrated his nuptials with Bibi Chah Miryam, a noble lady and noted beauty of the place, the jayn=mece, of Khoja Ahmad Yasavi, whose tomb there is the most sacred shrine in the country. He then set out on a campaign over the whole country to the westward, and penetrated to Mad^yn in Persia. From this, after a prolonged stay, he returned by the Culzum Daryi or Caspian Sea, and converting the infidels, re-established Islibn, city by city and tribe by tribe, up to K^shghar, where he arrived after an absence of several years. Here he found his progress checked, for in his absence the city had passed into the hands of the Khutan infidels, and the people had relapsed into their old idolatry. ( 129 ) T.B.E. He, conseqaenily, sent Yueuf K^r back as envoy to the Im6m Nasiraddin at Maddyn for assistance in a Ghazdt = ** crescentade/' and meanwhile with his army of sixty thousand men, amongst whom were many Arab adventurers and Persian mercenaries, laid siege to the city. After five months of skirmishing and blockade the garrison, pressed for food, came out with all their force to drive off the enemy and raise the siege. They were cut off from the city, defeated with great loss, and pursued across the Kos^n river, whilst Hasan, taking possession of K^sbgbar, received the submission of the people, and made them anew publicly profess Isl&m. Hasan now re-established the 8har(at in all its severity, prohibited the use of wine, and flesh of dog, ass, and swine as unlawful ; levied a ruinous contribution for his army, and, after a complete, plunder of the city, mounted the throne as King. Having thus settled and secured the city, he assembled his army and marched against the infidels who had taken post at Yangf Hiss^r up te which point they held the coimtry. After some severe engagements, he drove them out of the town on to the Cfyrgh^hit^gh or Cdyr^ghit^gh, a ridge of sand hills close to the south. In a subsequent engagement with Jagflu Khalkh^ld beyond this ridge, Hasan Bughra Khin and three hundred of his warriors were cut off from their supports, and slain to a man. As most of them were men of rank and note from Tabriz, the village in the vicinity was called, in commemoralion of the slaughter, Tabriz!, or as it is locally pronunced Tawiz. This disaster is dated Wednesday, 4M MuAarram, H. Bibi Chah Miryam Kh&nim, who accompanied the King on this campaign, now entered the field to avenge her husband^s death. But she was quickly put te flight and pursued inte the sandy desert, where she was overtaken and killed four days P. later. Her grave is marked by a lonely unpretending shrine, in connection with which is a poor monastery and abns-house, far away from habitation, on the borders of the sandy desert, thirty-six miles te the south-east of Y&ngi Hiss^, and sixteen miles south of Orddm Padshih. Half a mile te the south of the shrine, which is called Maz&r Hazrat Begum, are the indistinctly traceable ruins of a town, said to have been the city of Nucta Bashid. It presents nothing te view but the outlines of the foundations of rampart walls, and bastions, now mostly buried by the drifting sands. Here and there, where the sands have been swept away by the winds, the surface is strewed with fragmente of pottery and glass, and occasionally coins are found amongst the dSbris, T.B.K. Husen Bughra Khan, the brother of Hasan, now made a desperate effort te retrieve the day. But Nucta Bashid, elated by his successes, fought with an equal fury, and Husen was killed not far from the spot where his brother fell. His army was routed with terrible slaughter, and pursued te Kibshghar, which again fell into the hands of the Khutan Chiefs. The two brothers, Hasan and Husen, were buried in one grave on the field of their martyrdom, and the spot is marked by the shrines and atteched monastery of Chtich&m or Khoj^m Pddshah three miles west by south of Yangi Hiss^, amidst . the ruins of a vast cemetery. Shortly after this, Yusrof ELiulir, who had been sent to Madi^yn for aid, returned with an army of twenty-four thousand men, and accompanied by Syad AUuddin. As he crossed the Andij^n Pass, or Tirik Daw^, the infidels, abandoning the city, retired te Chin Shahr— ^sailed also Ilchi and Khutan — ^and Yusuf K^dir, taking possession of Elibhghar, mounted the throne as King. He added te his Arab force by the levy of a fresh army at the capital, and set out te conquer Khutan. His campaign proved successful, and IsUm was now for the first time established in this flourishing seat of Budhism. Jagilu Khalkhflu was killed in the course of the campaign near Cumfl) or OumiL, and ms country subdued and annexed to Kikshghar, after a war, from first to last, of twenty-four years. P. Such is a brief sketeh of the histery of the Bughra ELhan &mily in the K£sh- ghar territory, and whilst it gives an insight into their own ambitious designs imder the tutelage of their Muhammad'an precepters, it, at the same time, conveys a ( 130 ) fair idea of tbe resistance at first opposed to the establishment there of - the new F. religion. We may now return from this digression to review the part played by this &mily in the politics of the country adjoining it on the west before proceeding to follow up the course of events that again bring us to the theatre of action at K^shghar. On the death of Bughra Kh&n at Bvkh&ri, the fugitive Abul K^m returned^ V.B. and was re-established in the government by Subuktakin^ the ruler of Ohazui^ who then passed westward to the conquest of Nishibor and Herat. Meanwhile lylik Kh&n^ the son of Bughra Khkn^ from Klishghar repeatedly invaded Bukh^ri against Abul K6sim, until he was finally defeated by Subuktakin^ and peace restored. Abul, K^sim died 387 H. = 997 A.D. and was succeeded by his son, Abiil H&rith Mansur. He was soon blinded by a rival noble in favour of his brother, Abdul Malik who, too, was a mere youth. He was for a while supported against the hostility of Mahmud, the son of Subuktakin^ by Begtakin and Faik, but was ultimately driven to seek refuge with lylik Khan at K&shghar, who then himself marched to Bvkhiri, and threw Abdul Malik and the rest of his family into prison, 889 H. = 999 A.D. Abdul Malik died in prison, but his brother, Muntazir, a third son of AbiSl K&im, effected his escape, and attempted the recovery of Bukhdri. lylik Khan, however, whose empire now extended from the borders of China to the Caspian, drove him from the country into Khur^n. ' From there he wandered into Sist^, where he was killed by some petty robbers, Rabi Awwal 895 H. = 1004 A.D. With the death of Muntazir ended the S&m&ni dynasty, which had, from 260 H. = 873 A.D., during a period of one hundred and thirty years, ruled over all Central Asia, and founded the Isl^m polity there on the orthodox SunwC model. The Uighur, who under their Chief lylik Khan, rose to powar during the declining years of the S^mini rule, did not long enjoy their career of prosperity. lylik Khan had his capital at Kishghar, and only held BukhM during the last years of the S^m^ni rule. Jand, a fertile country, eighty /ar«aHc= '^league'' from Bukhiuri, was seized by Saljuk, a partizan of the deposed Muntazir, who now became indepen- dent. He was the son of Tomak, and had been expelled from the northern steppe with Subdush, the General of the Prince Begri. With their following and new adherents they settled in the vicinity of Bukhir^. Here the grandsons of Saljuk, Toghrul and Ch^kar, warred with lylik Khan, and after his death, with the Bughra Khan family of K^shghar. Alitakin, the ruler of Samarcand, in alliance with lylik Khan, quarreUed and warred with K^idir Kh&i, the son of Bughra Kh^ On this Mahmud marched to the tatter's aid, and, driving out Alitakin, protected Kidir from Saljuk and other enemies. In 524 H. = 1129 A.D. Sult&n Sanjar seized Samarcand, and carried its Governor, Muhammad bin Sulemin, prisoner to Khurasan, but afterwards reinstated him. Subsequently iQ 534 H. = 1189 A.D. Khwdhrizm Shah captured Bukh^, N. destroyed its fort, and killed Ah Khalicat, the Governor of Sultan Sanjar. And again, following this, the next year Samarcand revolted under Ahmad, and Sultan Sanjar, subduing it, appointed Nasr, the son of Ahmad, to its government; but this led to Y.B. more war, and the decline of the Sanjar rule. For at this time the government of the Uighur had passed into the hands of Gorkhan. GorkhinsKhdn^ Kh^, Lord of Lords, was the title of the King of the ELarft B.S. Khit&y, a people who came originally from Khit^, the nor2;hem provinces of the Chinese empire. They were at first a party of eighty emigrant fsunilies, who, on leaving their own country, found a refuge amongst the border Earghiz. They soon, however, disagreed with these nomads, and moving on gradually made their way to Ayl or J\s^ where they built a city. Here they were joined by a number of Turk wanderers, and their number soon exceeded forty thousand families. On the death of Iheir first Gorkhan, his widow, Goy^nik, assumed tbe government, but, owing to her profligacy, was soon deposed by her late husband's brother, who then succeeded to tibe government by the murder oi a rival brother. And he, on his death, was ■ttcoeeded by his son as Gorkhitn. ( 131 ) Y.C« Acoording to lyOhsBon^ «a quoted b^ Yule^ the Kari Khitdy Empire was foonded by a Prince of the Leao dynasty, who, on its fall before the Kin, in the beginning of the twelfth century, escaped from North China. He is the Yelin Tisbi of the Chinese, and the Fushi Taifu of fiashiiduddin. He was well received by the Uighiir and others, subjects of the Khita Empire to the west of the desert, and ultimately, acquiring power and strength, conquered all the country up to Khw^hrizm, and in 11^6 A.D. took the title of Gorkh^n. His capital was Balas^ghiin, and his religion was Budhist. He was succeeded in turn by a son and grandson, and the latter was reigning, when in 1208 A.D. the son of the last KMn of the Christian N£ym^ sought refuge at the Court of Kari Khitfy, and married the daughter of Gorkh^. He plotted against his benefactor, ultimately captured him, and took possession of most of his country. He abandoned Christianity at the bid of his wife, and in the end was slain in the mountains of Badakhshin by the Moghol under Changiz in 1218A.D. According to the French Monk William de Rubruquis, who was sent to Tataiy on a mission to Bdtu Khan by Louis IX of France when that sovereign was in Palestine, and who extended his travels to the Court of Mangu Khan, and the city of Kar&oram, as quoted by the same author, Kar& Khit&y was a name used in distinction from the proper Khitay. They dwelt in an alpine country north of Khit^, where in a plain amongst the mountains dwelt the N&ym&n tribe of Nestorian Christians. Their Chief, on the death of Oorkh^n, the Kari Khitly Buler, rose to be King in his place, and was called by the Nestorians '^ King John,'^ the Prester John of Europe. He was known by this name but to few in the time of Bubruquis when Kin Khan held the country. . - « This King John had a brother, who, like himself, was a great shepherd, and dwelt three weeks journey off on the other side of the Kar£ Khitdy mountains, where his capital was the small town of Kar^koram. His name was Aong Khan, and his people the Karait and Makrit, who were also Christians, though their Lord became an idolater. Beyond his pastures, at from ten to fifteen days^ journey, were the Moghol tribe, a poor people, without a leader or religion, except that of soothsayers and sorcerers. Beyond the Moghol or Moal was another poor tribe, the Tartar. This Aong Khan, or Unc Cham, the Chief of the Karait of Karakoram, is the Tuli of the Chinese writers, and the Toghrul of the Persian. He got the title Unc, or Aong, or Wdng, as it appears in different authors, and which is equivalent to Kh^n = ^' Chief,'' " Lord '' from Kin, the sovereign of North China. Aong Khan, on the death of his brother. King John, became Khan, and his flocks spread over the country to the Moghol borders. At this time there was amongst the Moghol tribes a black* smith, Tamu jin or Tamurehi, who used to lift the cattle of Aong Khan's people ; and they complaining to him, he invaded the Moghol lands, and drove Tamujin to refuge amongst the T^t^. T.N. According to the Tabcdti N^siri, written by Minhijuddin 'Uthman, Jauzjani in 658H. = 1269 A.D., Tamurehi T^rt^, Chief of the Moghol tribe, was the father of Changiz. One day out a hunting he got a toghrul or " crane" or " crested heron," and stuck its plumes in his cap by way of ornament. From this circum,- stanoe he was named Toghrultakin = " Toghrul by name." The Turk tribe hadTa separate Chief, but both Turk and Moghol were the subjects of Altdn Khan of Tamgh&j. Tbey were a thieving, adulterous, and reprobate people and altogether wicked. Such in brief is what is known of the antecedents of Gorkhin, who now, on the decline of the San jar rule, appears upon the scene. R.S. About this period there was at BaUs^ghun, the Kqbaligh of the Moghol, a Khin or Ruler of Af^usy&b descent. His power was declining, and he was constantly harassed by the incursions of the neighbourmg predatory tribes of C&rligh, Canculf, and KapchiUc. And in his distress be turned for aid to the Gorkhdn of the Kajri Khitay. a5 ( 132 ) GorkMn marched to BaMs^ghun on his invitation^ But he took the place for B.S. himself^ and subjugating the offending tribes to his own rule^ appointed the AtriBjih Main or King to rule over the Turkmin people. Oorkhan next subdued the Kirghiz^ andj taking the cities of Beshb^ligh and Alm£ligh (the present Alm^ti or Almi AiA, as it is written in books) ^ extended his conquests over Klshghar and Khutan^ which were then at mutual hostility^ and brought the adjoining province of Fargh&na under his rule. At this time the Kar£ Khitdy nomads^ who wandered over the country to the north y.B. of Khokand^ now occupied by the Kar£ Kirghiz and Kapchac^ appealed to Oorkhin against the heavy taxes exacted by Sultan Sanjar. According to the Tabcdti Nisiri^ the Kar£ Khitiy were a people who^ having T.N. revolted against the King of Tamghaj^ came to the cities of Cub&ligh and Balis^ghun, and pastured on the Islamite borders^ where the Musalm^ns were ruled by Afr^syib Princes descended from lylik Mirzi^ under subjection to the Saljuk Kings. They at first paid tribute^ but^ on getting strongs revolted, and were attacked by Sultan Sanjar, whom they defeated, and whose wife, Turkan Khdton, they captured under their leader T^ynko Tadtz, who restored her on peace being made. The Sanjar power declined after this defeat, and the Turkistan Princes, being distracted and weakened by wars amongst themselves, sought the aid of the Kar£ Khitay, who came and took the government for themselves, and kept it for eighty and odd years. Their rulers were in succession Ayma, and Sangam, and Arbar, and Tana, and Tiynko, and then a >^ queen who was succeeded by Oorkhan. His army invaded the country repeatedly, and conquered all up to the Jyhon, including Talicin, Balkh, Amuy, and Tarmiz, and made Khwdhrizm tributary, and Khurdsdn too, excepting only the Sult&ns of Ghor and Bdmydn. (lorkMn was deposed by the Shuncdr Tartar, Koshluk, and with him ended the rule of the Kara KhitAy. Before him Tdynko Tardz was defeated and captured by Sultan Muhammad Khwdhrizm Shdh, at whose hands he accepted Islim. He had won forty-five battles before, and had never been defeated, till on this occasion Sultan Muhammad assailed his ban^a^" iorti&ei camp'^ three several times, and finally cap- tured him and his whole army. , When, as abovementioned, the Kard Khitdy nomads on the Khokand frontier Y.B. complained to their King of the exactions of the Sanjar Governors, he took up their grievances and demanded redress, but failed in obtaining satisfaction. Conse- quently Gorkhan, in 536 H. = 1141 A.D., assembled his forces, and, being joined by tibe Chiefs of the country, invaded Mdwaranahar, whence he drove out Sultdn Sanjar across the Oxus to Andkhuy, where he died a lunatic not many years later. He N. destroyed the fugitive King's army, and appointed Aymantakin as his Governor of Bokhdrd, from which he then pushed on to Khwdhrizm, where he made its King, Atsiz, tributary in 30,000 diram yearly. The diram may be reckoned as equal to about six pence. A couple of years later, Hdshim Araba attacked Bukhdrd, drove out Cardcha Beg, the Governor of Gorkhdn, and killing his Wazir, one Shahab, plundered the city and destroyed its fortifications. They were restored in 560 H.=1164 A.D. by the Kard Khitdy Governor of Gorkhdn, who was in turn ousted by Muhammad bin Sultantakin Khwdhrizm Shah in 564H.=1168 A.D., who re-built and improved the fortifications. Finally they were destroyed in 616H.=1219 A.D., when Changiz took the place. On the death of Sultan Sanjar, his nephew, Mahmud, succeeded, and reigned Y.B. for six years, when he was blinded by Bughra Khan of Kdshghar, or one of the family of that name, to whom he was related on the mother's side. And thus the Saljuk empire fell to pieces ; the Khwdhrizm King dividing Khurdsdn with him of Ghor, whilst Mdwardnahar and Farghana fell to the hands of Gorkhdn. With this division of the eastern portion of the Saljuk empire ended the first Turk dynasty in Mdwardnahar, where the Persian literature and culture still flourished, the Turk element forming only the military class. ( 133 ) V«B« During the next fifty years the States of Bukhitr£ and Samarcand were contest^ ed by Gorkh&n of the Uighur countiy on the east^ and Khw^rizmshdh of the Khiva on the west. Khwdrizm or Ehiv£ was given in fief by Malik ShiSi Saljuk to his General^ Nnshtakin Garcha^ who was succeeded in 491 H.^1097 A.D. by his son^ Muhammad Eutubuddin. He ruled thirty years^ and assumed the title of Khwdhrizm Shdh, and in 521 H.=1127 A.D. was succeeded by his son Atsiz. He rebelled against Sultan Sanjar^. and in the anarchy thus produced Gorkh^n seized M^war&nahar^ and made the Khw^rizm Shdh tributary as stated above. Atsiz died at Eoch^n or Ehabosh&i in 551 H.z=1156 A.D.^ and his son^ ArsUn Ehan, who succeeded^ continued the tribute to Gorkh^n. He died in 560 H.=1164 A.D. The succession was now contested between Takish^ the eldest son^ and Sult^- takin^ thrf younger nominated one. Civil war continued for ten years^ when by the aid of Gorkh^n^ on the promise of continued tribute, Takish was established on the throne oE Ehw^hrizm. He died on the 10th Ramazdn 596 H.=l]99 A.D., and left an empire nearly equal to that of the S&m^ni and Saljuki to his son^ Muhammad Eutubuddin Ehw^hrizm Shah. He continued the tribute to Gorkh^n, and with the aid of the Uighur defeated Shah&buddin, Eing of Ghor, and on his death annexed Ghor^ Herat, and Sist^n in 612 H.='1205 A.D. He next subdued Ir^n, and in 616 H.=1209 A.D., proud in the consciousness of his strength, refused the tribute to Grorkhdn, and invaded Bukhara. He defeated the Uighur army and captured Atrar, whence he returned to Ehwdhrizm. On this Gorkh&n, now ninety-two years of age, at once took the field, recovered Atrar and other places, and set seige to Samarcand. Meanwhile Eutubuddin Ehwih- rizmshdh hurried back, and a fight ensued with the Uighur army at Ban^kat, in 620 H.=1213 A.D., but the action was indecisive and both armies retired. In this battle Gorkh&n was opposed by Eoshluk Ehdn, the son of Tayung Ehan, Ndyman, who now turned traitor to his patron and benefactor, and revolted against him. B.S. This Eoshluk, chief of the Ndyman tribe of Christians, was a Budhist, but his wife was a Christian. He had been forced to flee from BeshbAligh by the hostiliiy of Changiz, and coming to the westward found an asylum with Gorkhin, who received him well, and attached him to himself as an ally, and strengthened the connection by giving him his daughter in marriage. When Ehwihrizmshah, elated by his successes in Ir&c, refused the tribute to Gorkh^n and invaded Bukb^r^ he entered into a plot with Eoshluk to divide the Uighur empire by a simultaneous attack from the east and west. The agreement come to was that if Ehw^hrizm Shah were first successful, he should have the country up to Eishghar and Ehutan, but that if Eoshluk first succeeded, he should take the country up to Ban^kat on the Syhon or Jaxartes river as his share. Ehwihrizm Sh^h, from his vicinity, was first in the field, and took the country up to Atrar, as before mentioned. And he now recovered the place after the battle at Ban^kat, from which Gorkh^n retreated in disorderly haste to his capital, where, on arrival, he found the gates closed against him. He beseiged BaMsdghun for sixteen days, and, then taking it, gave the city up to plunder and massacre for three days, during which, it is said, forty-seven thousand souls perished. Eoshluk following up now appeared on the scene of riot and bloodshed. He soon routed the demoralized army, and captured Gorkhdn, whom he consigned to an honor- able captivity, in which he died two years later aged ninety-five. He next attacked Almdligh (Alm^b^ligh), and killed its ruler, and then for successive years campaigned Eishghar and Ehutan, and spread devastation and famine over the land. He was a Budhist, and his wife a Christian, and each proselytized to his or her own creed, and everywhere persecuted the Muhammadan. At Ehutan, an ancient and most flourish- ing seat of the creed of his adoption, Eoshluk took an ample revenge upon the hostile creed for the destruction its professors had wrought upon the temples and monasteries of the place, and requited the massacres and persecutions of their monks and priests at the hands of Ytisuf Eddir and his Arab aUies by like reprisals. He assembled three ( 134 ) thousand of tiieir dergy, and demanded a sommary recantation of their false B*S. doctrine^ and on their refusal to deny their " Pure Prophet/' be executed their chief priest^ Sheikh Jaliluddin^ by suspending him head downwards from the bough of a tree in front of the principal mosque ; whilst be let loose his soldiery amongst the rest to slay and torture^ and finished with the destruction of their mosques and desecra- tion of their tombs. Whilst Koshluk wa« running this violent career in the south-west of the Uighur country^ another Budhist chief, Aydy Cut, T^rtir, had risen to power at BaUsiighiin in the north-east of the same region, and with only less violence perse- cuted the Muhammadans up to the Tishkand frontier, and destroyed their town of Kis^n belonging to the province of Farghana. (Abul Fida). At this time the growing power of Changiz had made itself felt on the Uighur border, and Aydy Cut, alive to his own interests, tendered an early submission to the rising conqueror. He was in consequence highly favoured, and Changiz gave him one of bis daughters to wife. Koshluk, on the other hand, mistrustful, and continu^i ing the old antipathy, did not so submit. Changiz, consequently, sent a strong force of his Moghol, under Jattah Noy^n, to exterminate him and his N^ym^n. The Moghol invaders fell upon and slew all the Nijmin troops they could lay hands on at Kdshghar, where they found them scattered amongst the peasantry, from whom they had taken forcible possession of their houses ; and then followed in the track of Koshluk to Khutan, subjugating and settling the country as they went on. Koshluk, on bearing of the destruction of his army and the approach of his dread enemies, abandoned Khutan, and fled in haste with only a few attendants into the mountains of Badakhshdn, and the Moghol, pursuing, got some Witkhi or Wakhin huntsmen, amongst whom he was concealed, to deliver him up to them. They straightway killed him, and sent his head to Changiz, who then annexed Eishghar and Khutan, and the country up to the Syhon, This brings us to the period of the Moghol invasion under Changiz, and that P. occupation of the country which has given to it the name of Mogholistan ; just as in anterior ages a similar irruption from the north, under Ayghur Kh^, gave to it, and the adjoining region to the west, the name of Turkist&n, from the designation of' the main division of the great T^rtdr invaders of that period, after whom the whole of the Central Asian plateau takes the general name of Tartary. To understand this it is necessary to go back to the early history of these peoples. The oriental version as given by Mir Kh&wind Shdh, the Mirkhond or Khondemir of European authors, whose opportunities of acquiring reliable information on the traditions of the country were, from his position at Herat during the glorious reign of the great Sult^ Husen Mirz^ in the latter half of the fifteenth century^ probably as good as those of other historians, may be briefly summarized much as follows : — Y&fath or Japhet, which signifies " ancestor,^' was the forefather of the Turk race. R,S. When the ark rested on the mountain Judi, Noah sent forth Japhet to the countries of the east, and gave him the ya^a-^^= jade stone, which signifies '^ rainstone,'' for by its possession was secured a timely rain for the crops in their seasons. From him sprung the following peoples :— CAin. He was the inventor of painting, silk culture, the art of weaving, and many'other useful arts. Seldb. He warred with Rue, and Kharz, and Kam^ri for ike possession of the land, and finally settled in the country bearing his name. It is in 64^ N. Lat. and beyond the A(;^C iMm, where, owing to the intensity of the cold, the houses are sunk underground. KAarz or KAazar, He settled on the Biver Amil = Volga, and built the city of Khaaar there, and cultivated the soU. Itu9. He settled on the tracts adjoining Khazar ; introduced punishment by fine and confiscation, and heritage by daughters, the sons receiving only their fathers' weapo9s of war. ( 185 ) R.8. Okaz. He setUed in Bulghlbr, and warred with Turk. Thej are both tiie worst and most turbulent of the sons of Japhet. Kamiri were huntsmen on the borders of Bulgh^^ and were clad in the furs of weasels and other animals. They 8q>arated into the divisions of Bart^ and Bulghftr. ^ Turk. Settled at Baligh a<'Git)r'' in Siling&y^ whieh is a mountainous region^ with small rivers^ and many springs. Here houses were first built^ of reeds and logs. Turk had four sons^ viz,, Codak, Chagal, Parskhar^ and AyUic. Codak discovered the use of salt bj his bread falling on saline ground out a hunting. Other sons of Japhet firom whom nations sprung are Manshij^ Sadsan^ and Yarij. They were all at first nomads^ and to this day they all prize most highly the yada-tdsL Turk became the first Khin of Turkist^n. He was the ootemporary of Ky&mnrthj the first sovereign of Persia. At eighty years of age he resigned his kingdom in the east to his eldest son^ Amalgha Kh£n^ who in his old age resigned it to B^tii Kh£n. He was a really great Prince^ and was succeeded by his son^ Kuyuk^ who^ also^ was a wise^ just^ and powerful sovereign. On his death he was succeeded by his son^ Alinja Khan. In his reign the Turk became a powerful nation, and relapsed from their ancient form of religion. He had twin sons, TitiT and Mughol, and in his old age he divided his empire between them, and thev lived in harmony after his death. TMit from father to son gave a succession of eight Kings, the last of whom was Biydu Khan. The kingdom then became dismembered by internal dissensions. Mughol similarlv gave a suceession of nine Kings, the last of whom was Ayl or El Khin. From him is continued the line of the Turk. Mughol had four sons, ifig., Kar£, Azar, Kaz, and Uz. Ksii Kh&i succeeded to the throne, and is the ancestor of the Moghol tribes. His home was at ELar^koram s ** Black Shale,^' between two mountains called Artak and Kartak. He had a son named Aghor, who first married the daughter of his uncle Kaz; but not agreeing with her he next married the daughter of his uncle Uz; and not agreeing with her either, finally married the daughter of his unde Azar. She accepted the new religion he preached to her, and they loved each other and lived happily together. His first wives became jealous, and plotted to poison him, but the vigilance of his favourite guarded him. The discontented wives then complained to Kari Khan of being neglected and despised by his son, because they had refused to desert their faith for his new religion, which he wished them to adopt. On this Kari Khan, fearful of the spread of the new doctrine amongst his people, marched to attack his apostate son on his hunting ground!^. He was fore- warned by his faithful wife of the design against him, and was consequently on his guard, and in the fight that followed, Kar& Khan was killed. Aghor Khan now (about 650 B.C.) ascended the throne, and converted the people to the new faith. He reigned seventy-three years. Some of his tribes rebelled and sought aid from Chin, whose King sent an army to their assistance. Aghor marched against it, defeated it, and subdued all the Tirttr and Moghol tribes in that country. After this he invaded Bukh&i^, and subjugated all Turkist^n, and then held a grand national assembly or Ourultay of all his princes, and nobles, and i^iefis, called together from every part of his empire. They came over journeys of one or two vears, with their families and flocks, with their Kkargdk or '^circular framework nuts '' and waggons, and formed a vast camp such as bad never been seen, and made high festival. On this occasion, in counsel with his nobles, Aghor Khan framed a code of laws for the government of his empire, at the wisdom of which the mind is wonder-struck, and which raised him to the same exalted position anu>ngst ihe Turk nations that was held by Jamshed amongst those of Persia. He gave distinctive appellations to the several tribes of Turk, such as Uighurs^' joining,'' because this tribe sided with him against the hostility of his father, G&nculi='' waggon,^' because of their wealth in, and use of those vehicles ; Calich='^ sword,'' because of their diBtinction in its use, &c., &c. Aghor Khan, after seventeen years' war subdued aQ ( 136 ) the Buric tribes^ and after the campoigiis of Ohor and Ghuijist^n returned to his own B.S. seat at Kardkoram, where he died. He left six sons^ viz., Gun^ Sun, Ay =Mooji, Yulduz = S tar^ Kui = Sky^ Td^A = Mountain^ and Bangiz = Sea. From these in twenty- four divisions^ from sons and grandsons^ are descended all the Turkman tribes. Turkm&n is a recent name for those Turk tribes who settled in Miwardnahar^ and^ though not intermarrying with f oreigners^ became altered in appearance by the effects of change of climate^ and mode of life^ and were called by their neighbours Turkm&nind or Turkman =" Turklike.^' Aghor Ehan^ in his western conquests^ took Khurasan and both Ir4c, and extended his power over the countries of Misr= Egypt, Sham= Syria, Rum=Turkey or the Roman Empire, and Afrjsig=: Africa? Onhis return to Artak Kartak he held a grand national assembly, and celebrated his conquests by- magnificent festivities. Nine hundred mares and nine thousand ewes, according to the rule of ten sheep to one horse for feasts, were slaughtered, and wine and delicacies of every sort and country were lavishly expended on the feast, whilst rich robes and presents were distributed to the nobles. On this occasion Aghor Kh£n divided his empire amongst his six sons. The right wing amongst the three eldest, and the left wing amongst the three youngest, and he gave them his bow and three arrows between them. The three eldest broke the bow and shared its pieces, and are in consequence collectively known by the term -B«-2:«^(?=" Destroyer.^' The three youngest shared the arrows between them, and are collectively styled I/i?A«fc=" Three arrows.^' Shortly after this assembly Aghor Khan died, and his son, Oiin, succeeded to the throne, with his father's Minister, Arcil, as councillor. He represented that each of the six brothers had now four sons, making in all twenty-four royal princes, and pro- posed that they should be all provided for so as to prevent discord. According]y^ each was allotted his own province, and city, and rank, and standard, and privileges. The six brothers shared the government for seventy years, and then the son of Dangiz, named Manglay, became ruler of Mogholist^, and reigned one hundred and ten years. Manglay was succeeded by his son El Khan. At this time Turkisttfn and M^war^nahar belonged to Tur bin Faridun. He allied with Son j Khan, the T£t&r Chief, and they warred with £1 Khan, whose camp they surprised, and captured to a man, excepting only his son, Csiyin,and his maternal uncle's son, Tukoz, who, each with his wife, effected their escape. These four fugitives escaped to a mountain fastness, inaccessible on all sides but by a single track, called Arkana Cul (in the Cobdo District), and these in course of time multiplied to many families. Those of Caydn were called Cay^t, and those of Tukoz, Daralkin. After this, by melting and digging a way across an iron moun- tain barrier, they issued from their retreat, and recovered their ancestral seats from the Tartar possessors, and were joined by the other Moghol tribes. . The Moghol country extends from that of the Uighur on the west to the fron- tiers of Khitd on the east, and from Silingay (in Cobdo) and Carcar on the north to Tibet on the south. The food of the people is the flesh of their flocks and the chase, and their clothing furs. Yulduz, the son of MangUy Khw^ja, the son of IVmur Tash=^^ Ironstone,'^ a descendant of Cay^n, when he ruled the Moghol, raised their name to the highest fame, and annually celebrated the mode of escape from the iron mountains of Arkana Cul by the erection of furnaces, and melting and hammering of iron, and singing and feasting all night. Such, in brief summary, is the history of the origin of the Turk people, whose P. career in this region through the Uighur period has been sketched in the preceding pages, as given by Mir Kh^wind Shdh. His account of the Moghol people may be briefly summed up as follows : — Alan Cod, the granddaughter of Yulduz Khin, Cay&t, was the wife of her B.S. father's brothei^s son, and she bore him two sons, named Yalkadi and Yakjadi ; and rafter his death she ruled the tribe, and educated her sons. At length, like the ( 137 ) B. S. self-breeding women of the Northern Isles^ and the mother of Hazrat Is£=Lord Jesus^ she became pregnant without the intervention of a father^ by means of a ray of light entering her Khatgdh at nighty and passing into her mouth as she slept. She was a noted beauty^ and was now naturally charged with imchastity ; but at a convocation of the Moghol chiefs and nobles she satisfied them of her innocence by shewing some of them the light as it again entered her tent at nighty to witness which phenomenon a party of them had been appointed to keep watch. She was in due time delivered of three sons, viz., Yacun Caycay, from whom descend the Caycay tribes ; Yasfya S^lji, from whom descend the S^ljdt tribes ; and Buziinjar Muthciln, from whom come all the Moghol Khins. The progeny of these three sons are collectively styled Buzun, and those of the two sons by her cousin and husband are styled collectively Daralkin, and they hold an inferior rank. Buziinjar Khin succeeded to the throne. He conquered Tur^n, which was divided amongst many rival Turk Chiefs, and adopted the title of KYxio&n. or C&^&Hj which signifies ^' Sovereign Lord/' On his death he left two sons, Boc£, the eighth ancestor of Changiz, and Toc£, the ancestor of M^chin. Bodk was succeeded by his son Domin Khan ; and he in turn left a widow, named ManoUn, and nine sons. She was very wealthy and wise, and dwelt in a strong castle on the Arkaby mountain, at the foot of which flowed a swift river. Here she stored her riches, and from here she ruled her people, and got wives for her sons from the neighbouring tribes. At this time seventy gorcm = '^ a camp of one thousand tents'' of the Jalkyr tribe, camped on the Great Kalordn river near Khit£, with whose people they were always at war. At length the Khitay crossed the river, and drove off the JaMyr from their border, and Ihey retreated and came on to the pastures of ManoUn. Manolin collected her people, and issued from her retreat to drive them off, but was overpowered and killed with eight of her sons and many of her men, and her castle was captured by the invaders. The ninth son escaped the fate of his family through his absence on a visit to his uncle, Machin, to whose daughter he was betrothed. Mdchin now prepared to avenge the loss of his relatives upon the Jaliyr, but was appeased by their rendering up seventy culprits for execution, and excusing the disaster as the act of some lawless bands contrary to the desire of the tribe ; and peace was restored. Kaydu Khan now ascended the throne. He is the sixth ancestor of Changiz and Cardchar Noyan. He dug the canal of Jaralum, and warred with the Jal^yr. He had three sons, viz,, Biyncar, Hai*ca Lingam, and ILhdrchin. From Bayncar are descended Changiz and T^mtir; from Harca Lingam, the Tan jtit tribe ; and from Khirchin, the tribe of Sajyut. On the death of Kdydu his eldest son, Bayncar, succeeded to the throne; but he soon died, and his son, Tomna Khan, took his place. He was a great Prince, and largely extended the empire. He had nine sons, seven by one wife, and twins by the other. These last were Kabl Khan, the third ancestor of Changiz, and Cdchdly Kbdn, the eighth ancestor of Tymur. Kabl Khan ascended the throne on the death of his father. He is called Alanjik Khan by the Moghol. He appointed Cdchuly his regent when he went to visit Altin Khin, the King of Khiti. On his death he was succeeded by his son, Ktibla Khan. He warred with Alt&n Kh&n, and, defeating his TiLrt&r and Khitay, plundered his country, and returned home with his Mughol laden with a rich booty. He died soon after, and was succeeded by his brother Buzndn. His uncle, C^chuly Bahadur, having died, fiuznin appointed his son, Ardiinchi BirMs, to the command of the army. On his death, Buzndn was succeeded by his son, Mysoka Bahadur, and he, on the death of Ardunchi, appointed his son, Sdghanchin, to the command of the army in succession to his father. Mysoka warred with the Tdrtdr, and, defeating them, captured their Chiefs Tamujin=Tamurchi or Tymurchi='^ black- smith" or ^' ironsmith," and Kari Boc&=^' black stag." From this campaign he returned to Dylon Yulduc, where his wife, Aolun, gave birth to Changiz, on the 26th ( 138 ) Zieada 549 H.sll54 A.D/ ^ysoka called him Tnmtirchi or Tamtijiii^ becaoBe that B.S. Tirt&r Chief's rule ended at the tinieof his birth. Aoldnbore Mysoka two other aonSj viz,^ Jujis^^Btranger/' and CaBar=^' wild beast/' Mysokadied in 562 H.as 1166 A.D.^ and his Oeneial, Sdghanchin^ soon after. The recently subjugated tribes now levolted^ and joined the Tanjut or Tangdt tribe, and both Moghol and TdrUtr became divided by internal diswnsions, and soon separated under ri^ Chiefs. The Biri^s tribe too, tiie family in which Ibe command of the army was hereditary, ikovr revolted against Changiz, who was aged sixteen years* Changiz, on euooeeding to his fether's nde, suffered many reverses at first, and was opposed by the tribes of JimodL, Tanjdt, Cunghr&t, Jidiyr, and othen, consequently he sent Eadicbir Noy&n, the son of Sughanehin, to seek the aid of Aong KUtn, who had been an old ally of Mysoka^ and was at this time the most powerful Prince in all TurkisUin. He tieated the envoy well, invited Cfaangiz to his court, received him with cordial hospitality, and adopted him as his son ; and Changis in return did him good and &ithful service. He defeated the Makrit Chiefs, Borkin and Tocyi Begi, who had joined the brother of Aong Khdn in rebellion against him. On this the Tanjut, S£ljtit, Cunghrit, Jaliyr, T&t4r, and other tribes, joining in revolt, confederated against Aong KULn Mid Changiz, and swcNie on slaughtered horse, cow, sheep, and dog to overcome them or die in the contest. Accordingly both sides prepared for war. The hostile hosts met in battle at Byor K£war, and after a bloody engagement the troops of Aong Khan and Changiz were victorious. After this, owing to old enmity and jealousy of his power, Btiyuidc Khan, brother of T&yiLng Khan, the ruler of the N^mdn, attacked Aong Khan, but his army was destroyed by the cdM and snow. Changiz had now served Aong Khan seven years, and, having risen to great favour and authority, was envied by all the courtierB, and looked on with jealousy by the nobles. The ruler of the J&jritt tribe, named J^moo^ was the most active against him, and instigated Sanjdn, the son of Aong Khan, to hostiliiy against him on the pretence that he was in league with Tiy&ng Elhan to seize the government. At first Aong Khan refused to credit the charges brought against the fidelity and loyaliy of his favoured confidant, but the perseverance with which they were reiterated finally shook his &ith, and he was per- suaded to make an attempt to seize him. Accordingly with his son's army, on the pretence of a hunting excursion, ha marched to the territory held by Chang^, and there pitched its tents in the vicinity of his camp. Changiz was soon aft^ informed of the plot to surprise his camp at night by one of his soldiera, who brought with him two boys, from whom he had h^rd of the intentions of their neighbours; and they, on being questioned, asserted they had overheard what they bad reported at the tent of a soldier in the opponte camp, where they had gone to sell milk. Accordingly Cfaangiz, satisfied as to the truth of the boys' statements, quietly abandoned his camp at nightfall, and, leaving the tents standing, moved with Kar&chir Noy&n and his troops into the hills hard by. Aong Khan fell upon the camp towards day lights and, finding it empty, followed in the track of the fugitives. A fight ensued, Sanjdn was wounded, and Aong Khan put td flight, leaving many of his Karait dead on the field. Changiz after this remained sometime at the salt springs of Biljdna, and assuming independence established a code of discipline for the government of his adherents. It was known as jr<£«^iMii=s'^ established custom,^' and owing to its severity led to the desertion of many of his followers. He now rewarded the two lads, who had informed of the plot, by attaching them to his court with the rank of Tarkhdnj the privileges of which were free access to the royal presence, and immu- nity from punishment for criminal offences up to nine convictions ; and the dignity was made hereditary. The descendants of these Tarkhi&n were still met with in Khnr&s^n in the fifteenth oentuiy. ( 139 ) B. S. Prom "B&lj&ni Changiz moved to the banks of a river flowing at the foot of a moantain on tiie border of Khit&^ and here he mustered his army^ which numbered only four thousand six hundred men. From this he moved on to the Nor or N^war = ^' Lak^/' and from there sent envoys to treat with the Kunghr^t tribe, who came and joined him. He next sent envoys to arrange a peace with Aong Khan, but they returned unsuccessful, and war followed. Changiz defeated Aong Kh^n, who fled for asylum to Tiy^ng Khin, but he was attacked on the way by some nomad robbers, who killed him and sent his head to their Chief ; and he had the skull set in a gold frame, and in memory of their old enmity used to address it with words of reviling. Sanjun, on this occasion, escaped to Tibet, and thence made his way to Eishgh^r, where he was executed by its Chief in 599 H. = I202 A.D. Changiz by this victory subjugated all the Mughol tribes, and at the age of forty-nine years ascended the throne at Shaman Oara, his favourite camp ground in the same year 1202A.D. According to Mughol custom he was raised aloft on a pile of felt carpets, and putting on the crown with magnificent ceremony, changed his name from Tamtigin to Changiz. Now, in the following year, 1203A.D., Tij&ng ELh&n, N^ym&n, dreading the power of the rising conqueror, sent envoys to arrange an alliance with AUcosh Namugin, the King of the Angait, but he refused the advances made, and joined Changiz, who was already on the march against the NAymin. His army camped on the Gulbaty plain till the end of the summer harvest, and then the vanguard advanced to the Altiy river, where it came up with the army of Tiy&ng Khan, and his aUies, the Makrit, Karait, Awrit, J^jrdt, and other tribes. Changiz defeated them all. Trying died of his wounds, and Koshluk^ his son, escaped to his uncle, Buyurdc Khan. The tribes of T&t&r, Caycay, Durmdn, and S^jdt submitted, but that of Makrit held out. Changiz returned for winter to Shazniin Oara, and in the spring marched against Toctii Begi, the ruler of the Makrit. He, with his son, Kar^ Namoda, fled to Buyuruc Kh^, the brother of T^y^ng Kh£n, and Chang^ subjugated the Makrit. He then went against Tangdt or C^shmin, destroyed its fort, and slew all who offered resistance, as was his established rule. Changiz after these victories extended his ydsd-yustln code over all the sub- jugate tribes, whom he now incorporated into his military organization, framed on the decimal system, by which the whole population capable of bearing arms was enrolled in his army. They were divided into companies of ten called 6n; of a hundred, called yuz ; of a thousand, called min^ ; and of ten thousand, called tumdn. And each of these was under a commander, called respectively OnbdsAi, Y4zbdsh{^ Miugbdsk4, and Tumdn Agh&y who was directly subordinate to the commander next in superiority to him, so that each commander had direct control of only ten units : thus the Tdmin Agh^ of ten Mingbashi, the Mingbashi of ten Yuzb^shi, the Yuzb^hi of ten OnbJshi, and the Onbiishi of ten men. The system was rigidly enforced, and governed by strict regulations for the conduct and responsibility of each rank. And practically it worked with that success which enabled its originator to achieve the surprising conquests that in less than ten years laid the whole of Asia at his mercy, of which alas ! it knew not even the semblance. In the following spring he held a grand national assembly, or Curultdy, and, mounted on a magnificent throne, confirmed the change of his name from Tam^jin to Changiz ; established the yd9d-yus4ny vmtten now for the first time in the Uighitr character, as the law of his realm ; held high festival, and then set out on a campaign against the resisting Bdyurdc Kh^n. He was killed, and his country ravaged, but his nephew, Koshluk, escaped to Toct4 Begpi, and they both retired to the country of Arwish. Changiz returned from this campaign to quell a revolt in Tangdt, and then turned his arms against the. Kirghiz on his western borders. They, however, met him with a prompt tender of submission and tribute, and were in return granted the privilege of holding their lands in Suyurghdtmishy or '^ miUtary fief/' and Changiz retraced his steps triumphant to Shamiin Oara. a7 ( 14iO ) After a brief repose there^ he again, at the end of 604 H.= 1207-8 A.D., took the R.S. field, and went against Eoshluk and Toctit Begi in Awrish, and on the way received the submission of the Awtit, who acted as guides to the hiding place of the fugitive Chiefs. Tocti Begi was killed in the fight at Arwish, but Koshluk again escaped bj flight, and found refuge with Oorkhin, Chief of the Kar& Khit&y, and ruler of Turkistin, who received him well, and gave him his daughter to wife. After this victory Changiz received the submission of ArsUn Khdn, the El or '' ChieF' of the C^rluc tribe, and of Aydy Cut, the Chief of the Uightir, whom he treated with great favour, and to whom he gave one of his daughters in marriage. Following this he sent envoys to demand the submission of Altan Khin, the King of Khiti. The King refused, and Changiz marched against him, defeated his army with terrible slaughter, sacked and destroyed many cities, and pursued the King — in those days the Kings of Khita were always called Altdn Khan, just as they were afterwards called Ayming Khin — ^to Kh^nbaligh or Chunkad, the Cambalay of Marco Polo. On the approach of the invader, Atl^n Khin sued for peace, and sent his daughter to him as wife. Changiz accepted her and turned back, but Alt&n Kh£n, leaving his son with a strong army in Kh£nb&ligh, removed his Court to Taming, which he made his capital. This city had been built by his &ther on a very wide river, and was protected by three lines of fortified walls one inside the other, and was adorned by handsome palaces, and gardens in which w'ere produced the fruits of both hot and cold climates. At this time, however, the Kard Khit&y, who had revolted and seized some Khitd territory, submitted to Changiz and sought his aid, and he consequently sent an army with them against Khilnb&ligh. The King's son fled to Taming, and the city, reduced by famine and siege, was taken and plundered of an immense treasure. Altan Khdn poisoned himself, and Chan^, after a campaign of two years, conquered most of Khitd, and leaving strong garrisons in Tughilr and its frontiers returned to his Yurt or ^^ country seaf' at Shamin Oara='^The Shaman's home.'' The N&ymin country now revolted, and Changiz sent an army, provided with carts, to subdue and settle it. It marched to the Kara Mor&n river in Mogholist&n, and there came up with the enemy under Codo, the brother of Tocta Begi. He was slain and his son taken prisoner. The youth was a noted archer, and displayed his skill before Jdji, who having seen him put one arrow on the other at a mark, inter- ceded with his father to spare the life of so skilful a bowman. Changiz, however, refused, and with the lad's death the ruling family of Makrit became eztincti 618 H.=1216 A.D. At this time the Comlt tribe on the Khiti frontier having revolted were also subjugated. Whilst this force was operating against the Makrit on the Cdmkichik='' Little P. Sands" on the east of Mogholistan, another force was hunting to the death Koshluk, and settling the country of Kishghar and Khutan up to the Syhon on its west, as has been before related. And this brings us back to the course of our narrative of events. About this period then, with the submission of Aydy Cut of BaUts&ghun and Arslan Khan of Almdligh on the north, and with the death of Koshluk and the annexation of Kishghar and Khutan on the south of the Tianshdn, the territory of Changiz extended from the east borders of the desert of Gobi to the west slopes of Tianshan mountains, where it marched with the frontiers of M&warinahar, ruled by Khw&hrizm Shih, and included the whole of Mogholistto proper. The anarchy prevailing in this region just prior to the Moghol invasion had led T.N. Sultan Muhammad Kutubuddin Khwihrizm Shih to meditate the conquest of Khiti, but the fame of the conquering Changiz caused him to restrain his ambition, and instead thereof he sent a friendly mission to the conqueror of the east to spy out the land. On the return of this embassy, one of its members, Syad Bahiuddin, related to the author of the Tabcdti Ndsiri, the work from which I am quoting, at Tolak of Ohor in the year of the Mughol invasion of Khorasan, 617 H. = 1220 A.D., that as the mission approached the capital of Tamghij (Changiz was at the time prose- ( 14.1 ) T.N. cuting his Khit£ campaign)^ they marched for three days along a hill white as snow with the bleached bones of the slain in its siege^ whilst the ground between to the city was black and grimed with their gore^ the stink of which killed some and poisoned most of their party. At the city itself^ under one of its towers, he saw a pile of bones, said to be those of twenty thousand virgins, who had been cast from it to escape b^ such death the fury of the Moghol soldiers. Khwihnzm Shah's embassy was well received by Changiz, who dismissed the envoy with rich presents, and the following brief message of his master : — " I am Sling of the East. Thou art King of the West. Let merchants come and go between us, and exchange the products of our countries.'^ A caravan of merchants accom- panied the returning envoy, who amongst the other presents from Changiar carted away a block of native gold the size of a cameFs neck. On arrival at the frontier city of Atr^r, 1218 A.D., the Governor, K^ir Khdn, by order of Khwihrizm Sh^h, detained the caravan, and soon after murdered all the merchants to the number of four hundred, and plundered their property. This treacherous act brought down upon the country the savage vengeance of Chan^z. He collected his forces from Turkistdn, Chin, and Tamghi&j, under eight hundred standards of a thousand men each ; eight hundred thousand horsemen. He appointed, besides, three hundred thousand horses for the baggage of the army, its carts, and families, &;c., including one horse to every ten men, with its load of three sheep made into {?a^^=''sundried salt-meat,^' a skin of Cumiz=^" maie's milk wine,'' and a Kuz^Aan^z'^ iron cooking pot.'' Thus provided his hardy soldiers marched three months across deserts, and rivers, and mountains, and towards the end of 616 H. = 1219 A.D. arrived at Atr&r. Here he left Juji and Aoktay with their troops, who on its capture after a siege of five months, in revenge for the murder of their merchants there, destroyed every living thing in it. Meanwhile Changiz himself with a strong force hurried on to Bukh^ri, the capital. P. We need not here follow the career of his i^ghtful butchery and devastation. It is su£Bcient for our purpose to note here that the cities of K^hghar escaped these calamities, and that a strong contingent of their UighiSr soldiery under Aydy Cut and other leaders were in the conqueror's army ; that Khw&hrizm Sh^h, flying before the storm his savagery had raised, was chased into Mazandar&n, and escaped his pursuers by ship on the Caspian to disappear from the scene; that the populous cities of Bukhara., Balkh, Nishabor, Herat, Ghazni, and many another in this region were utterly destroyed with their inhabitants ; that the vaunted impregnable castles and fortresses of Tokh&rist^n, Kibul, Ohor, Sistin, Khurasan, and Khiva were without exception captured and dismantled or razed ; that the entire region from Azarbi j&n on the west to the Indus on the east, and from Dasht Kapchdk on the north to Sist^n on the south, was in the short space of only six years so thoroughly wasted and ruined that more than as many centuries has not su£Bced to obliterate the effects and marks of the havoc then worked, far less to restore the region to its former state of prosperity and population ; and finally, that having chased Sultan Jalilluddin Khwahrizm Shih, the son and successor at Ghazni of the fugitive King, across the Indus, he was called back, from his mad career of devastation to quell a revolt in his own home at Tungdt. T. N. Changiz, the author from whose work these records are taken states, had in 616 H. = 1218 A.D., just at the time he was preparing to set out against Khwdhrizm Shah, received envoys from the Khdlif N&sir of Baghdad urging him to do so, in revenge for the independence of the Kh£tifat assumed bv this ruler of M&war^nahar. He was joined on the way by ArsMn Kh£n of Alm&ligh, and by Aydy Cut from Besh- b&ligh with his Uighur contingent. On arrival at Atrir he left Aoktdy and Chagh- t&y, with Juji in support to take the place, and sending Alio Noy^ and Mangu Boci to Ban&kat and Khujand, himself hurried on against Bukhiri, the Cutub-ul- islAm=" centre prop of Muhammadanism." In the Mugh or Parsi language Bukhdr is said to signify ^' collection of knowledge," but with the Uighur and Khitdy it ( 142 ) means 'Mdol temple/^ The city was now completely sacked and rained^ and its T.N. population massacred and enslaved. At Ati^r^ which was garrisoned by fifty thousand of Khwahrizm Sh&h's troops — he himself fled from the capital by Nishibor to Absu- kun, where he died 22nd ^i ifi;y 617 H. = 1220 A.D., (Vambery) — not a soul waa left alive^ the whole population being led out in batchy of fifty and butchered on the plain outside the walls. On his return march from the Indus, Changiz sent his son Aoktiy in mid-winter to Ghazni and Ghor, there to wipe out in the blood of the people tiie disaster his troops had suffered at the hands of Jaliluddln in the fight at Parwin. He did this so effectually during a campaign of two years, that not a trace of P. the aboriginal Aryan stock, the Oahwr or fire-worshiper of Iriin, is now to be found in the country. The only inhabitants of that mountain tract— the real Kohi K^ of Orientals, the Paropamisus of the Greeks, the Indian Caucasus of Europeans — ^at the present day, are the descendants of the army of occupation left there by him. And though still pure Moghol in race type, and many of their customs, they Know nought of their antecedents. They have entirely lost their language before that of their subsequent Persian rulers, and are now only known amongst their Afghan neighbours as the poor, mean, despicable, and heretic Hazdra (evidently the designation of their original military divisional settlements), whom as being Skia it is lawful to oppress^ euslave, and sell. The remarkable persistence of the race type of these Moghols during six hundred years is easily explained by the isolation or their position in an inaccessible and easily defended mountain country, whose natural outlets and affinities are more with the cognate races of the Oxus valley than with the foreign Aryan tribes of the Kabul highlands and the basin of Kandahar. But to return to our subject. Whilst Aokt&y was marching to Kabul on this errand, Changiz went into winter T. N. quarters in Gabari or the Gabar country (the country of the fire-worshipers, now known as Pakli and Swat) to wait the return of his envoys to the Emperor of Hindustan, Sult&n S&id, at JDelhi, to ask his permission for a passage to Chin through Far£ jil and Kimrud. During these three months he sent out parties in all directions to forage the country and reduce the forts held by the Iric troops amongst the moun- tains, whilst he spent his time in consulting the fates by burning the Skdka or ** Sheep scapula,^' a custom still common amongst the Hazkra or Moghol of the Ghazni highlands. The omens by these were unpropitious, and his envoys, at the same time, returning with an unfavourable reply, Changiz at once set out across the snowy mountains, whilst it was yet winter, and, with great difficulty and loss of life made his way by Kabul and Eldshghar to Turkistin. His route was probably across the Sw^t country into the Kunar valley, where P. Chag&n Sarde, or '^ white hostelry,'^ from its name attests Moghol occupation, and thence up the Chitr&l valley, called also Kishk^r through the easy Barogil Pass, which is practicable for half of the year, on to the plain of K^shghir. Such at least was the route taken by part of his army, if not by Changiz himself, who, according to the author of the Tabciti Nasiri (a personal actor at Tolak in the defence against his invasion of Ghor), rejoined his camp with the heavy baggage, left at Naman Pushta in Tokhanstan, and took it on with him to Samarcand, where he spent the spring and summer. Here in 621 H.==1224 A.D. he held a Curultdy, and divided his conquests amongst his Y.B. sons. To Aoktay he gave the Eastern Tirt^r country, comprising China and Mongolia ; & Y.C, its capital was Khanbaligh=Pekin. To Batu, the son and successor of Jiiji, he gave the Northern T^rtdr country, including Dasht Kapchak ; its capital was Saray on the Volga. To Chaght&y he gave the middle Tirt&r kingdom, which comprised Mogholistan, that is Zunghdr on the north, and Kdshghar on the south, Mdwarinahar, Khwahrizm, and A^hanistan: its capital was Almaligh. And to Tuli he gave Khuras&n and Iran ; its capital was Tabriz. Having thus disposed of his empire Changfiz returned to his seat at Kar^koram, R.S. or Shamdn Gura, and in Zi Hijj 621 H.=1225 A.D., after an absence of seven years. as— Coppersmiths manufacturing water vessels. I >Cn 36. — Bootmaker, Bread seller and Cotton cleaner. ' ^^ . 1 ( l^ ) tiJS. rejoined his family* He here held a Qirultdf, and celebrated his oonqueats by magnificent festivities. After these rejoicings he marched against Shandarca, the rebel Chief of Tangut^ devastated his count^ and reduced hm to subjection, but, restoring him to &vour, gave him one of his daughteis in marriage. This Chief, however, it appears, again rebelled, and Changiz taking the field against him was wounded by an arrow, and died from its effects in Ramzdn 624 H.==18th August 1227 A«D. (Y.C.)^ aged seventy-'three years, having reigned twenty-five. He was buried, by nil own desire, without ostentation, at the roots of a tree in his favourite hunting grounds. He had more than five hundred wives, but only five were noted for birth and beauty combined. They were Parta Cochin, a noble lady of the Cunghr&t tribe, the mother of his noted sons. In his early wars she was taken prisoner by the Makrit, and delivered to Aong Kh£n. He kept her sometime, and on a cessation of hostilities restored her to Changiz, whom, shortly after her return, she presented with the son named Jujissstranger. A stigma always attached to his parentage, and was the cause of his disagreement with his brothers, and subsequent separation from them. He died during the life of Changiz, and his son, BdttS Kh^n, inherited his share of the empire. Parta Cochin after him bore Changiz three sons, viz,, Aoktay, Chaght^y, and Tuli, and five daughters. The otiier noted wives were Konju, daughter of Alt&n Khan, King of Khiti; Kormay Sun, daughter of Tity&ng Khiin,* Mvsolon, the daughter of J^mkabud; and CuMn, the daughter of T^yrasun. The ompring of Changiz in a few genera- tions exceeded ten thousand souls. He first instituted his celebrated Tc^Tuiun code after the death of Aong Khiin. On his coronation he confirmed it, and had it written in the Uighur character, which he adopted for the Moghol language. He first established the decimal eystem of military organization, and the seveial ranks and offices for the civil administration of the Moghol empire, and instituted the hunting circles, called Jirga, with the rules and regulations for their conduct, and the pains and penalties for their infraction. He was a just ruler, protected merchants and encouraged commerce, tolerated all religions, and was liberal to those who uncondi- tionally surrendered to lus authority ; but to those who opposed him his only course was one of utter ruin and extermination. On the death of Changiz some confusion followed in the succession to the Chiefship, and it was not till the spring of the third year after, that Aokt&y was acknowledged Khdn at a Curultdjf held in his camp. At this assembly he was crowned King, and divided the treasures left by Changiz amongst his sons, and nobles and chiefs and troops. He performed the funmd obsequies of the departed conqueror, and sacrificing forty noble virgins to hi» manes consigned them to his grave as companions in the world he had gone to. On this occasion Aokt&y received the homage of his brothers and nobles nine times on bended knee (according to the T6xt6x observance of that number), after which they went out and knelt three times to the sim as witness to their sincerity. All criminals were pardoned up to date, and the Tdsd^FMn of Changiz ordained as the rule of govern* ment. And thus was inaugurated the succession to the throne of Changiz. After this Oirultay, in the spring of 627H.=1229A.D., Aokt&y with Chaght^y, and Tuli, marched to the conquest of Kliit&. Tiili died during the campaign from the effects of a fever contracted through an act of brotherly devotion, of which instances are not uncommon amongst T^trtdr tribes. He had, to save the life of the sick Aoktiy, voluntarily taken his disease to himself by drinking a cup of water in which it had been typically washed awa^ from his afflicted brother. The Moghol army suffered great losses in this campaign from the effects of climate and disease, but their booty in captured women was so great that the districts depopulated from these causes were soon repeopled by their offspring. From the conquest of Khitfi, Aokt&y returned to Kar&koram, and in the spring of 633 H.=1235 A.D. sent his son Kuydk, and Batil, the son of Jdji, and Mangd, the son of Till, and all the sons of Chaght^y to the conquest of Bus, Charkas, and Bulghar, whilst he devoted his time to the restoration of tiie principal cities destroyed by Us father, and the erection, at Kar£koram, of a magnificent palaoe for himself. a8 ( 144 ) « • It is said to have covered several square miles of surface, and to have comprised R.S. separate suits of apartments for his several brothers and their families, besides hunting parks, flower g^dens, fish ponds, &c., and all sorts of resorts for pleasure and amuse- ment, with gorgeous pavilions and halls for music, dispersed over the grounds. In all these the workmanship was of the most elaborate and costly kind, and the handiwork of the most skilful artificers and masters from China and the countries of the west. On the return of the victorious armies from the latter direction, he held a Curvltdy here, and in the midst of its magnificent ceremonies, and varied displays, its pleasures and festivities, the Great Lord of all the T^urtdr nations, the most puissant sovereign of the age, the Great Aoktij Ciin, the successor of Changiz, died suddenly in 639 H. = 1241 A.D. as King of Ir^n and Turan on the west, and Mogholia and Khit£ on the east. Chaghtay succeeded, and ruled the country from Ir&a to Ear^koram. He was V.B. a bigotted Budhist and a confirmed drunkard, nevertheless the country during his rule flourished and prospered. He held his Court at Almdligh, between which and Bukh^rd he established a post of express couriers for speedy intelligence. He died in the same year after Aokt^y, and left many sons, of whom Bisti, Bori, Bydar, and Basan Bodl were present at the Curult&y, when Kiiytik, son of Aokt^y, succeeded to the Kh&ni. Chaght&y had nominated his grandson Kar£ Huldkd, a minor, to succeed him, and his mother, Abtiskun, acted as regent, and put to death many State officers in the way of her ambition. On this Kdyuk deposed her, and disposing of other rivals, in 645 H. = 1247 A.D., appointed Bisu as successor to Chaghtdy. This, however, led to anarchy at the capital, Alm£ligh, and disorder soon spread Y.C. all over the country, and led ultimately to the dismemberment of the Chaghtay empire, on the ruins of which, after the lapse of a hundred years of anarchy, usur- pations, depositions, and murders amongst the Moghol Prince contending for power, was constructed the new kingdom of Mogholistdn, or Jattah UMs, by a Chaghtdy descendant. This kingdom of Mogholistdn comprised the countries of Zungh^r and K^hghar on the north and south respectively of the Allah T^gh or Tiansh^Ln range of mountains. - Kuytik, after three years' reign, was succeeded by Mangd Khan, the eldest son V.B. of Tuli. He reinstated Kar£ HuUikiS and Abuskun, and, deposing Bisu for rebellion against his authority, ordered Kari Huldkti to kill him ; but both died before the mandate could be carried out. On this Mangd appointed Oigana, the widow of Karfi HuMku, to the government of the Chaghtay empire. She ruled in peace for ten years at Almaligh, and there, in 1254 A.D. (Y.C.) received Hulaku Khan, the second son of Tuli, and the Lord of the Western T£t£r, when he was on his march from Kar^koram against the muldhid or '' assassins'' in Persia, where, after the con- quest of Baghdad, he died at Maragha in Azarbij^n, not long after his brother, Mangd, who died in 658 H. = 1259 A.D. at the siege of Tangt^sh from the effects of excessive drinking during his campaign against China. On his death war broke out between his son and successor CubUy C&^n, whose capital was at Kh£n- bdljgh, and Arik Bugh& in the west. Organa was now deposed by Algu, who fixed his seat at Almdligh as the proteg^ of Arik Bughi. But he soon revolted and joined CubMy, who, whilst Arik Bdghi was engaged against him in the west, advanced and seized Kar^koram. Arik Btighi now took Alm&ligh and drove out Algu, who fled first to Kdshghar, and then to Khutan, and finally to Samarcand. Meanwhile Almdligh was devastated, famine followed, and thousands perished. Arik Btigh^ was now deserted by his Chiefs, and proposed peace provided he held the Chaghtdy country. Algu agreed to this, married Organa, and appointing Masaud B^, the Chaght&y Governor of Mdwarinahar, to act as Wazir, thus restored peace. Algii now repelled the invasion of Turkist&n by Kaidti, the grandson of Aoktay, who, aided by Bitii, contested the succession to the paramount Khdni against CubUy, and died soon after his wife in 662 H. s= 1263 A.D. Cubliy then appointed ( 145 ) V.B« Mxib^Lrak Shiih, the son of Eari Hnl&kti, Khan of the Chaghttj ulus = tribes, and Bur^, the great grandson of Chaght&y as his Wazir. P. In Mub&rak Shah we find the first Musalm^n name amongst the Moghol rulers. The invasion of Changiz had given a decided check to the advance of that IsUm, which had made such rapid progress in the conversion of this country to its doctrine in the two preceding centuries; for under his policy, which was followed by his immediate successors, of an impartial toleration of all creeds; the Muhammadan divines, deprived of tiieir convincing argument with the sword, were brought down to the level of equality with the other religious propagandists of the time. And we find accordingly that for many years after the death of Changiz the diverse doctrines of Budha, Christ, and Muhammad flourished side by side, not, however, without emulous jealousy and rivalry. Yarkand itself, when Marco Polo visited the country in the reign of Cubliy C^n, was a Bishop^s see, as was Alm^igh. In the anarchy that soon divided the Changiz descendants, the professors of IsUm gradually acquired the political ascendancy, and with it the advance of their religion gained a fresh impetus accompanied by all the enthusiasm and fanaticism that marked its earlier career here under the guidance of saintly teachers and miracle mongers, who claimed descent from their Prophet. Their success amongst the settled popula-' tion in the cities and towns, and in the rural districts generally, was rapid and enduring, and led in the end, as will be seen in the sequel, to the government of the country passing into the hands of the priesthood. This was more especially the case in the Western States of E&shghar up to Ktichi, which were nearer to Bukh^ri, the centre of the Islam polity in Central Asia. Whilst beyond it, to the east, owing to the more immediate influence of the Budhism of China, the religion of the Prophet has never taken so firm a hold of the people, and even amongst the nomad tribes, who are more or less in direct contact with or dependent on the Musalmin population of the settled country, is more nominal than real unto the present day. In the struggle for supremacy between these two religions here, Budhism and Muhammadanism, the Christianity, which in the early centuries of their rivalry held such a prominent and prior position in all the vast region of Central Asia, has left not a trace by which its former existence here can now be recognized. This is not to be wondeied at if we consider the jealous intolerance of the Musalm&n rulers, and the vigilant hostility that has even up to the present day enabled them to exclude all professors of the rival and superior doctrine from the pale of their subjects, and too often to prevent their even living in their countries as mere sojourners for a period. Let us hope, however, that brighter days are in store for the Christian in Central Asia, and that the enJightened toleration of the west may yet ere long extend its blessings of religious liberty to this region of blind bigotry and ignorant fenaticism. y.B. Mubarak Sh6h, the first Musalmdn on the throne at Almiligh, was soon ousted by his Wazir, Bur&c, the next heir to the Chaght&y KAdni, who then, as a partizan of CubUy, renewed the war with Kaidu, till ultimately, in 667H. = 1269 A.D., they swore mutual peace and friendship in a cup of mingled gold and blood on the plain north of the Jaxartes, and became anda = allies (a term of relationship applied to men who are married to sisters), and shared the country between them. Bukhiri and Samarcand were held by Biir&c, and EiLshghar and Yarkand up to Ear& Ehoja, with the Talas river valley, and the country from Lake Balkash to Chag^n Nor, that is Zungharia and Ei^shgharia, were held by Eaidu. After this Btir^ warred with Abaka, son and successor of HuUku, as Eing of Persia, but was defeated near Herat, and returning to Bukh&ri, died there in the spring of 669 H. = 1270 A.D. And Eaidu then became master of the whole terri- tory of M^war&nahar and Turkist^. He appointed Nekbay, the son of Sarban, to the Kkdni of the Chaght^y tUus. On this the sons of Buric and Algti united in revolt. Nekbav too revolted and was killed, and Toctymdr was appointed to govern the Cbaghtay 4lus. He was ( 146 ) piesently oxieted by Dava = camel^ the son of BiSfic, who held Khntan (where he was Y.B. buried) as an ally of Kaidu^ by whom he was now^ in 671 H. =5 1272 AJ).« set cm the throne of Chaghtiy (Y.C.). Dava Khan after this pnt an end to all oilier Aoktity riyals^ and added TuriEisUin north of the Jaxartes to the Chaghtiy dominions. On the return of l^mnr CHa, the son «nd successor of CubLiy (under whose glorious reign the indolence and barbarity of the Moghol character was greatly improved and softened by their contact with the industry and polish of the Chinese), from his raid down to Lahore Dava joined Kaidfi against him* The hostile armies met and fought 701 H. = ISOl A.D. in the country between Earikoram and ihe Tirim river of Lob (in the vicinily probably of Earibhahr the modem site of the ancient Jilish). Kaidti was defeated, and, dymg on his way home, was succeeded by his sou Chaba or Shabar. He and Dava now united in submission to Tymtir Cd^n, but they soon after quarrelled. TjmAf Ci^ attacked Chaba, 703 H.^ISOS A.D., between Samaroand and Khujand, whilst Dava seized all the Chaba territory and reunited the Chaghtiy empire as before its division by Kaidu (Y.C.). This did not last long, however, for Dava died in 706 H. s= 1806 A.D., and the Y.C. people of Eastern TurkisUn, who had been under Kaidu rule, such as the Uighur of kishgihar, Yarkand, and Allahtigh (Alatagh), preferred a separate rule to that of the Musulmins of Mawarinahar, and, finding no Chaghtiy descendant amongst them, invited Avmil Khoja, the son of Dava Kh£n, to be their ruler. He was succeeded in 1347 A.D. by Toghliic Tymtir, who thus once more re-established the eastern branch of the Chaght&y KAani, luiown as the kingdom of Mogholist^ or the Jattah uliU, whose capital was at K^hghar first, then at Yibrkand, and later at Aksd, with the summer quarters at Atbashi on the Upper Nirin to the north of the Allahti^h. Meanwhile in M&war^mahar another son of Dava, named Konjuk, had ascended V.B. the throne. He died very shortly, and then Talikada, a descendant of Moaltakin, a Chaght&y, who was killeid at Blmyan, succeeded. He accepted Isl&m, and was the second convert amongst Moghol rulers. He was soon killed by his nobles, who then set Kabak, another son of Dava, on the throne. Chaba warred with him, and was defeated. Kabak now resigned the Government to an elder brother, Eshan Boghi, who was chief of the Chaghiiy ulus from 709H.»1309 A.D. to 716H.=1816 A.D. He conquered Khuris&n up to the Murghi.b river in 1315 A.D. In retaliation for this Olj^tu, the Moghol King of Persia, under the name of Khudi Banda, sent an army with a convert brother of Esh^n Bogh£, named Yasavar (and a refugee with him) to ravage M&warinahar. They massacred, pillaged, and captivated the peculation up to Samarcand in the dq[>th of winter. Eshin Bogh£ now disappeared, and ELabak, resuming the Government, punished his rebel brother, and died 721H.=sl321 A.D. After this followed many years of rivalry and anarchy under successive Chiefs, till the time of K^bil Shih in 1363 A.D. During this period, since the invasion of Changiz, the Moghol character succumbed to the superior physique and innervation of their subjects of the Caucasian stock, and their manners and religion declined before the advancing force of a revived Isl&m. After the death of Kabak, the Kh£ni of the Chaght^y empiie in 1321 A.D. Y.C. fell to tiie hands of Elohi Gadky, who was succeeded by Tarmashirin Khin. He became a convert to IsUm, and, adopting the name 'AUuddin, abandoned AlmiUigh, the later capital of the Moghols — the first and original capital was Beshbdligh — and removed his Court to M&war£nahar. He was dethroned 1334-36 A.D. by his brother Bdzdn EJbin. He persecuted the Mus^Umans, who at this time everywhere displayed a remarkable activity and zeal in propagating their polity and creed ; but was very soon d^sed by Chansi, or Jinkshi Khan, also of the Chaghtay line, to whom Pope Benedict Xli, in 1338 A.D. addressed a letter of thanks for the protection he afforded to Christians. He in turn was shortly ousted from the Government by Yesuntimur, and he again, in 1338-39 A.D., by 'All Sult^, that '^ certain villain of a &lconer, a Saracen ^J « 27.— The Fortune-teller. 4 f J i /-v - ^ *<^ ^ ^'^ ■MhW^.^k.* rr 28.*-Derwishes^ professional beggars. >■%. k 1 ( 14.7 ) * Y.C. of the blood royal/' by whose orders the Christian Missionaries and the Bishop of the See were martyred at Alm£ligh (in 1339-40 A.D.)^ where presently he was ousted by the Amir Kazghan^ or Kazaoi^ who reigned till 1346 A.D.^ and was the last effective Kh&D. of the main Chaghtay branch. After his death in that year^ the successive rulers of the Chaghtay tilus were mere puppets in the hands of the Amirs^ or Provincial Military Governors^ who setup and knocked down much at their pleasure^ till the time of Tymur. And even he at the height of his power maintained a titular successor to the Chaghtdy throne. The last of these^ Sultan Muhammad Khan, died on active service in Tymur's Anatolia campaign in 1403 A.D. T.B. The first of these rulers of the Chaghtdy ulus, or Moghol Khans^ as they are called^ was Toghluc Tymiir^ who was set on the throne in succession to the Amir Kazghan by the Amir BoUji of Aksu. His history, as given in the Tdrikhi Raakidi, a history of the Moghol Khans^ written by Mirza Hyder in Kashmir, 952H = 1544 A.D., may be thus summarized. Toghluc Tymur Ehin was the son of Esh^n Bogh^, the son of Dava, the son of Bur^, the son of Kara Bisu, the son of Mangii, the son of Chaghtay, the son of Changiz. Eshin Bogh& bad many wives. Of these S&telmish Kh^ton was the chief, but she was barren. He went on an expedition into M^war^nahar, and left her in charge of his other wives. According to the ancient custom of the country the chief wife, in the absence of her husband, had supreme control of his other wives, and power to dispose of them as she pleased. Sitelmish now found one of Eshan Bogh&'s wives, Minilik Khiton by name, was pregnant, and, becoming jealous, gave her away in marriage to a noble, named Shar^l Dukhtoy. On his return home Esh&n Boghd was grieved to learn this, and soon after died, leaving no successor to the Government. The Moghol tribes consequently soon became divided by anarchy and dissension till Amir Boldji, DoghUt, produced the rightful heir. He sent one T^sh Tymur='' Iron stone,'' with a flock of sheep for his sustenance, to wander amongst the Moghol tribes, discover the camp of Shar^l Dukhtoy, and find out if Minilik had borne a son. And if so, to steal and bring him away. Tash Tymur, after long wandering, arrived at the camp of Sharilol, when only one blue goat of his flock of three hundred remained. He found that Minilik had two sons : the one by Eshan Boghil called Toghluc Tymdr ; and the other by Shardol, called Anju Malik. He stole away Toghluc, and joining a caravan, brought him by way of the Mtizirt, or '^ Glacier Pass,'' to his master at Aksu. In crossing the glacier his youthfid charge fell into a crevasse, and was extricated from his perilous position in the bottom of the chasm by means of a ladder of ropes, through the aid of the merchants of the caravan, headed by their leader Begjik. For his success in this enterprise, and the circumstance of the one remaining gpat when he found Toghluc, the adventurous Tash Tymtir got the soubriquet of Kok 4;i&2^=Blue goat. Amir Bolaji was originally of an Akisu family. When Chaghtdy divided his kingdom into military commands, he gave the Mangal^y Subah= '^ the Front division" to Aortob£, the grandfather of BoKji. Its boundaries on the east are Kohistdn and Tibogor ; on the west S^m and Jah Gasman, which is the end of the Farghdna country; on the north Isighkol; and on the south Ch^chan and Sdrigh Uighur. Amir Bolaji succeeded to this command, and its chief cities, in his time, were Khutan, Y&rkand, K^sdn, Uzkand, Andijto, Atb^shi, Kos^n, and Aksu. This last w^ the capital of BoUji. Toghluc Tymdr was sixteen years old when he arrived at Aksu, and two years later, alx)ut 1332 A.D., Bol4ji set him up as Kh£n ; and he was so acknowledged by all MoghoUst^n and most of the Chaghtay country. He became a convert to IsMm, and the author I am quoting gives the following account in connection with the event : — When Changiz took Bukh^rd he slew most of the Musalmdn clergy there, with their High Priest ELhoja H^fizuddin ; but he spared Maulini Shuj^uddin Mahmud a9 ( 148 ) and his family^ and sent them to Ear&oram. On the &I1 of that city^ his sons went T.B. and settled at Lob and Katak, large cities between Turf£n and Khntan. Here thqr left large families. The last representative of these was Shekh Jamiluddin. He resided in Katak, and fled from it when the place was buried bj a hurricane of sand, which fell from the sky as does rain. The wind sometimes blows away this sand, and exposes to view domes and minarets, which again become buried by fresh drifts of sand. At times houses, too, are thus exposed, and wandering shepherds relate that their furniture is discovered intact, and the occupants are seen standing as bleached skeletons, or lying prostrate as desiccated bodies just in the attitudes in which they were overwhelmed; and all uninjured by decay. The Shekh foresaw the impending calamity, and warned the citizens of it a week beforehand, and taking leave of his congregation at the Friday prayers, quitted the city and escaped the approaching destruction. He came to Aksu by way of Ay Kol two years after the arrival there of Toghluc Tjrmdr, and met the young Chief on a hunting excursion in the vicinity as he approached the city. He was seized, and taken before Toghluc for infringmg the rule to fall in with the jirpa^^^ hunting circle'^ on meeting it, and in excuse pleaded ignorance as a stranger coming from Katak. Toghluc was at the time feeding one of his hounds on boar's flesh, and turning scornfully towards the Musalm&n thus addressed him — ^^ Ho ! Tijik I Art thou the better or this dog ? " The Shekh promptly replied — " Since I have the faith I am the better. Without it the dog is better than me.'' This bold answer made an impression on Toghluc, and on his return home he sent for the T^jik, and enquired of him what the faith was that made him better than a dog. The Shekh explained the imdn=i" FBith" and set before him the tenets of IsUm. Toghluc was struck by the merits of the doctrine, and promised to accept the " Faith'' on becoming King, as he now feared the hostility of his people. The Shekh soon after died, and committed the charge of converting the Moghol Prince to his son, Arshaduddin. Following this Toghluc went to Mogholistan to receive the allegiance of the Kirghiz, Jattah, &c., and was there proclaimed King. Arshaduddfn, in obedience to his father's behest, set out for the royal camp, and at daylight after arrival there chaunted the Muhammadan call to prayer near the King's tent. He was seized and taken before the Kh&n for making such an untimely noise and disturbing his slumber. Toghluc asked him who he was, and what he meant. " I am,'' replied the Musalm^n priest with characteristic fervour and independence, ''the son of him to whom you gave your word to accept IslAm on becoming King, and, by his dying injunction, I have come for its ful- filment. Toghluc, true to his promise, welcomed him cordially, treated him with marked deference, and accepting IsUm at his hands, summoned his nobles one by one and invited them to follow his example. Amir Tolak, the brother of BoUji, who at that time held the rank of DoghUlt, and had three years before, when Governor of K&shghar, secretly become a MusaJmin, was now the first to make a public profession of the Faith ; and others following the example, they went from tent to tent and speedily converted most of the Chiefs. The Jar^s nobles, however, refused to follow suit, unless their champion, one Sanghoy Bodl, was first thrown in wrestling with the T^jik. The new converts opposed the demand on the grounds of the manifest inequality of the combatants; but the Shekh, interposing, accepted the challenge, saying that his trust was in Ood for the victory. The Jar^ champion scornfully, in the pride of his strength, seized the puny T&jik to throw him, but the priest of IsUm solemnly planted the palm of his hands on his adversary's breast, and repeated an appropriate text from the Kur&n touching the repulsion and overthrow of the unbeliever, and the pagan champion fell senseless to the ground. On his recovery he acknowledged his discomfiture as a divine warning and without hesitation accepted the Faith; and one hundred and sixty ( 149 ) T.B. tboosand people followed his example. Toghluc Tjm&r was at this time twenty years of age, and he died ten years later in 764H.=1362 A.D. V.B. In the anarchy following on the death of Amir Eazghan^ the JaULyr north of Samarcand, and the Suldoz in Kish and Nakhshab became independent^ and others set np for themselves in different parts of the country. T.B. Toghldc Ty™^ ^^ becoming King of the Chaght^y 4lus found this anarchy reigning in M^war&nahar, and in Rabi Th&ni 761H.= 1359-60 A.D.^ thirty years after the death of Tarmashirin Kh&ix, invaded the country, and restored a short lived order. At Khujand he received the submission of Amir S&yzid JaMyr, and at K^rshi drove Amir Haji Birlis, to retreat across the Oxus into Khur^n. Tymur, who now first appears on the scene of Asiatic politics, in the history of which his career fills so eventful a page, appealed to him not to desert the country without a struggle, and himself, collecting a force at Kish, advanced to Khaz^r to oppose the enemy who were coming on plundering the country nnder the guidance of H&ji Muhammad Shdh Yasavl. But Toghluc meantime had reached the capital, and Tymur, unable to check the invaders, turned and repairing to him there, tendered submission. Toghluc was favorably impressed by the rising conqueror, and reinstating him in the Government of Kish and its dependencies, retired &om the country. On his departure the Amirs H^ji Birlas, Khizr Yasavi, and Tymur united in revolt against the Moghol. Conse- quently Toghluc again invaded Mdwardnahar with a numerous army in Jamddi Anneal of the following year. The Amirs B&yzid and Baydn Suldoz submitted, and accompanied the Moghol army to Samarcand, but Hdji Birl^ and his brother, Aydko, opposing, were driven into Khurasdn. They escaped to Sabzw^r, and were there slain by the people of Kardsha, in the Juwen bului or '^ district.^' In after years, when Tymur conquered Khurdsdn, he avenged their death by a massacre of the people, and grant of the country in fief to the heirs of his muiaered kinsmen. In this second campaign, Toghluc, on the recommendation of the Amir Hamid, Kurulktit, one of the wisest and most influential of the Jattah nobles, re-confirmed Tymur in the Oovemment of Kish, and, in the same winter, took the field against Amir Husen, who held out at Kunduz. Toghldc crossed the Wakhsh river, and passed through the narrow and difficult pass of Darband Ahanin=''iron barrier,'^ beyond which he was joined by Kaikhusro of KhatMn, who had deserted from Amur Husen, then in full flight down the Oxus. Toghluc crossed the river to Kunduz, and passed the spring and summer in subjugating the country up to Hindd Kush. He returned to Samarcand in the autumn ; executed Bayan Suldoz, and many other troublesome Chie&, and having established his son, Ily£s Khoja, as governor of M£war£nahar, with Begjik, a Jattah noble, as minister, and l^mur as councillor, returned to Mogholist^n. V.B. On the departure of the Moghol army, Tymur disagreed with Begjik, and, effecting his escape with his wife, Olja Turkdn, joined Husen in the Khiv^ desert. From this date commenced that extraordinary career of this second world conqueror of modem times — ^the ''scourge of God'' over the whole Asiatic continent, the China region excepted. Here we are only concerned to notice that portion of his devastating career connected with the histx)ry of this country. Tymiir was bom in the Shahrisubz suburb of Kish on Tuesday, 5th Sha'han 736H. = 1333 A.D., and was the son of Turgh^y, the Chief of the BirUs tribe, and Governor of Kish on behalf of the Amir Kazghan. His father sent him for service to the Court, and Kazghan being favorably impressed by the bearing of the youth, gave him in marriage the celebrated Olja Turkin Kh&ten (the daughter of his son, Salah Kh^), the devoted partner of his early adventures aiid misfortunes ; ajid appointing him Ming-bdghi^" oomuOkiiA&T of a thousand,'' took him along with his army on the campaign against Husen Kurd of Khurasan. Both Amfr Kazghan and Turgh&y died soon after this expedition, and Husen, succeediug his father in the Government, appointed Tymur to the charge of Kish in ( 150 ) miooession to Turgh&y. But anarchy and disorder Boon spread all over the country, V.B. and brought about the invasion of Toghluc above noticed. Tymur, after his escape from Samarcand^ wandered a toilsome and adventurous month in the desert, where be was captured by the slave-hunting Turkman. He, however, effected his escape with Olja, and returning secretly to Kish, raised a band of adventurers, and sought a career for himself by a raid into Sistdn. Here he was wounded by an arrow in the right foot and lamed for life, and thus got the name of Tymur Lang='^ Tymdr the Lame,^' the famous Tamerlane of history. Whilst he was laid up with this wound Amir Husen seized Balkh, and Tymur joined him there. At this time their united forces numbered only fifteen hundred men. Ily^s Khoja sent a force against them, but it was defeated near Kunddz in 765H. = ]d63 A.D., and as he presently heard of the death of his father, Toghluc, Uy^s hurried off from Samarcand to secure the throne at Alm^ligh. Tymur on this drove the Jattah out of M£war&nahar, and returning from T&shkand entered Samar- cand, and was well received. He held a Curultdy and set K^bil Shih on the throne. In the following, spring Tly^ returned with a large army to recover Maward* T,R. nahar, and was met in opposition by the Amfrs Husen and Tymiir. A battle ensued on the muddy plain of L&e="Mud'' on the banks of the B^dam river between Chinas and l^ashkand in Ramazan 766 H. = 1364 A.D. In the fight Husen quarrelled with ^Fymtir, and quitting the field, retired to Sile Sarie. l^mur thus deserted withdrew to Karshi and Balkh, whilst Ilyas advancing set siege to Samarcand. A plague now broke out in his camp, and he was forced to retreat as best he could, having lost many men and most of his cattle. Tymur and Husen now warred for the masteir, and, finally, after years of V.B. alternate reconciliations and hostilities, Husen surrendered at Balkh, and was there executed 771 H. = 1S69 A.D. Tymur now held a CuruUdy, and in Turk fashion was raised aloft on a white felt, and proclaimed King of M^war&nahar as Amir Tymur Odrikin, with the title of Shih Sihibi Kardn, on Wednesday, 12th Ramazan of the same year (Z.N.T.). From this he crossed to Samarcand, and fixing it as the capital of the Chaghtdy Empire now revived in his person, built its fort, and established the Yu9do of Changiz as the law of the land (T.R.). In the winter following this the restless Jattah again invaded Mitwaranahar. T.R. Tjrmiir drove them across the Syhon, and subjugating the Kumza and Ortagtamur tribes on the frontier, returned to his capital. Whilst he was absent on this expedi- tion the Sh£h of Badakhsh^n, Shekh 'Ali, invaded Kundiiz, and plundered the country; consequently Tymur at once set out again to punish him. He marched by way of Tdlkh^n and Kishm, forced the obstinately defended Z.N.T. passes of Ookus and Jurm, and came up with the Badakhshi Sh&h in the deep and strongly barricaded glen of Artunj-darra, at the junction of two swift torrents. Tymiir drove him from this position to Canagh Aolang, where crossing the head waters of the Jyhon, the fugitive King stood to defend its passage. Sheik ^AU was here taken prisoner, and his army dispersing for the most part escaped into the neighbouring glens. In the pursuit Tymur got entangled in the mountains, and was surrounded and nearly captured in a deep and winding defile by a party of the Badakhshi highlanders. His escape was merely due to the impudent temerity of his few attendants, who rushing in amongst the ignorant T&jik, slapped them in the face, and with affronted dignity demanded if they knew who it was they dared to press around so disrespect- fully. On hearing the already dread name of the rising conqueror, the simple mountaineers at once tendered submission, and suing for pardon, restored the prisoners and captives they had captured. Tymur in after years often referred to this fight as the hardest and most perilous of the many he had engaged in^ and the country as the most rugged and difficult of any he had seen in aU his varied experiences. Yet he did not fail to punish in an exemplary manner his soldiers who, on this occasion, allowed themselves to be captured by the enemy. ( 151 ) T. R. On the death of Toghluc l^mur his sod^ Ily^s Ehoja^ hastening up from Samar- cand, as stated^ succeeded to the throne at Almaligh in 1364 A.D. ; but^ on his return to Mogholistdn in the following year from his disastrous attempt to recover Mdwara- nahar^ he was seized and killed by Amir Eamaruddin, who had usurped the Govern- ment and murdered all the descendants of Toghluc he could lay hands on. Eighteen Moghol Princes were killed by him in one day; but^ Khizr Khoja^ the youngst son of Toghluc, a boy of twelve years, and the only surviving member of the family, was rescued by Khudddad, the Amir of K&shghar and nephew of the usurper, and sent away by him with his mother, Mir Agha, and some trusty adherents for conceal- ment in the mountains of Bolor. This Kamaruddin was one of five brothers who held district Governments in Mogholistdn as heirs of former Amirs originally appointed by Changiz. They were Tolak at K^shghar, Bolaji at Aksu, Kamaruddin at Atb^shi, Shamsuddin, who was present at the battle of lAe, and Shekh Daulat, of whom there is no trace. Tolak, the eldest, was succeeded in the ulus-begi by Bolaji ; and he by his son, Ehudaddd, who was seven years old when his father died. Z.N.T. Whilst Amir Kamaruddin was thus securing his usurped rule in Mogholist^n, the Amirs Husen and Tymur were contesting the mastery in M&war£nahar ; and, on the final accession of the latter to the throne at Samarcand,. his first care was to repel the encroachments of the Jattah Moghol on the Tdshkand frontier, as before men- tioned. The submission then exacted did not prove effective, and the Jattah, taking advantage of Tymur's absence in the campaigns against Badakhshiin and Khwahrizm, made repeated incursions across the border into M^wardnahar. Whilst engaged in his first campaign against Khivi, Tymur in the spring of 773 H. = 1371 A.D. sent a force under BaJir^m JaMyr and Khitiy Bahadur to repel the Jattah incursions. They drove the enemy across the border, and pursuing, devastated the country up to Almdtii or Alm^ti, where, defeating the Karait, they concluded peace. It did not last long, however, and Tymur, on his return from Khwihrizm, took the field with a numerous army against Kamaruddin, the Jattah Chief. He took flight to the mountains, and Tymur, after ravaging the country up to Sikiz Aghach=" Eight trees'^ in the vicinity of Isigh Kol, returned with innumer- able captives and cattle. Following this came Tymur's second campaign against Khiva in 774 H.=1872 A.D., whence he brought away Siiytin (daughter of Yusuf Sufi, who died in the first siege), whose marriage with his son, Jah^ngir, he celebrated on return to the capital. Meanwhile the irrepressible Kamaruddin continued his incursions on the borders of T^shkand. Consequently, Tymiir took the field on his third campaign against the Jattah. He set out from Samarcand on Thursday, 1st SASdn, 776 H.=1374 A.D.,but was forced to return after a few marches owing to the intensity of the cold, and loss of men and cattle in the frosts, winds, and snows. He set out again two months later with a recruited army, and sent Jah^ngir ahead with the vanguard by Syr^m to Kok-tappa, where Kamaruddin was camped. He drove the Jattah army from this position, and pursued them to their stronghold, Barka Kurgh^n, a small castle in the highest of three dark and deep glens, each of which was occupied by a swift and copious torrent. Kamaruddin and his nomads, scared by the boldness of their pursuers, fled during the night, and Jah^ngir then, plundering the country along the Ayla River, took whole camps of the Jattah prisoners, and marched them off under escort to Samarcand by order of Tymdr, who next sent him in pursuit of Kamaruddin to Pae-tagh=^' Mountain Base.'' The Chief escaped into the moimtains, but his principal settlement at T?^eh-Burh£n or T7ch Turf/ln, together with his treasures and family, fell into the hands of Jah^n- gir, who, returning thence, joined his father, after an absence of fifty-three days^ at Kara Kasmic, and rendered up his captives and plunder. Tymur distributed these amongst his soldiers^ but reserved the prize of all, — the lovely Dilsh^d Agha=^^ Lady a 10 ( 152 ) Hearf s Joy/' the daughter of the fugitive Jattah Chief — ^for himself^ and a few days Z.N.T. later^ crossing Atbdshi to Arpa Y£zi plain^ there celebrated his marriage with her by magnificent ceremonies^ and a round of splendid festivities^ amidst which he was sumptuously entertained by Mubarak Shah^ the Makrit Chief of the country^ who presented gifts in the customary rotation of nine of each kind. After these rejoic- ings Tymdr crossed the 'Ucba Yisi Pass to TlTzkand^ where he was joined by his first wife^ Olja Turkin ; and thence^ with a succession of festivities and entertainments^ in which he escaped more than one plot against his life^ returned to his capital. In the spring of the next year, 777H. = 1375 A.D., Tymur detailed a force of thirty thousand horse under Amir Sdrboghi with 'Adilsh£h Jaliyr, Khitiy Bahidury and £lchibogh&, to hunt down and kill Kamaruddin^ who had again renewed his attacks on the frontier; and, appointing Acboghi to the Government of Samarcand^ himself set out on his third expedition against Khiva. On his departure Sdrbogh^ and 'Adilsh&h revolted, and, seizing the other two, besi^^ Samarcand. Tymur hastened back to the relief of the capital, but the rebels, escaping into the Kapchak country, there, in the absence of Urus Khan amongst his nomads, killed his minister Uji B£y, and passing on, joined Elamaruddin. With him they invaded Andijdn, held by 'Umar Shekh as Governor for Tymur, and drew off the Kazzdk tribes from him to their own party. In consequence of this Tymdr, having secured Samarcand, set out on his fourth campaign against the Jattah of Mogholist^n. Kamaruddin retired to Atbashi, and, sending off his people and cattle to Isigh Kol, lay in ambush with four thousand horse at S6ng Kol. He surprised Tymtir and a small escort with him, but was driven back and pursued to Sikiz Aghach. Here Tymur heard of the death of his favourite son, Jahingir, at Samarcand, and, leaving a force under 'Umar Shekh, with Acboghi, Khitay Bahddur and others to carry on the war, himself hurried back to the capital^ where he was met by the populace in ashes and mourning. Kamaruddin, after a long chase, again escaped his pursuers to the Kor&tu Desert; and they returned having plundered the country thus far, and executed the rebellious 'Adilsh^h, whom they captured wandering in a demented state in the hills near the Acsumi tower — a red brick pillar built on the Kaii Chic hill as an outlook upon the Kapchik plain. After the funeral obsequies of his son, Tymur, in 778H. = 1376 A.D., set out on his fifth campaign against the restless Kamaruddin. The advance was led by Muhammad Beg, the son of Amir Musd, and he came up with the enemy at Boghim Isigh Kol. The Chief was not found, but his army and camp, after a short struggle, were captured. In this expedition Tymur learned that Toctamish, the son of Uriis Khan, was coming to seek his protection. He left an Amiritumdn=:" Commander of ten thousand^' to meet and escort the refugee from Kapchik, and meanwhile pursued his return march to the capital by the route through Cochc^r and Jumgh&l to Uzkand in Fargh^na. At Samarcand he received Toctamish, and, loading him with favors, adopted him as his son, and gave him Atr^r and Syr^m to hold as a frontier against hiA brother Tocti KijL In this last campaign against the Jattah, Kamaruddin, who was of such vast size that a child of seven years could stand in one of his boots, was unable to keep hia saddle owing to dropsy and a foul disease in the groin. His people, on the close approach of Tymdr, concealed him in a forest at Kolm£ C£jor, with a supply of food and a couple of slaves to attend him ; but he was never again seen or heard of. On his disappearance peace and order were once more restored to the Jattah of Mogho- listen. During the period Kamaruddin held rule over Mogholist£n, Khizr Khoja, the T.R. heir of ToghltSc Tymur, was wandering in exile amongst the mountains on the opposite borders of the countiy, moving from place to place as his hiding was discovered by the {)ursuing emissaries of the usurper. From Bolor he was successively carried out of harm^ way to the mountain retreats of Badakhsh^n^ Khutan^ and Sirigh Uighiir^ ( 163 ) T«R. and finally to the Ealm&k settlementB about Katak and Lob. And thus he spent the twelve years from the death of his father to that of his persecutor. On the disappearance of Kamaruddin, his nephew^ Ehud^id^ the Amir o£ Eishghar^ assumed the Govemment of the Jattah tribes ; and^ after restoring order amongst them, recalled Khizr from his retreat at Lob, and, in 1388 A.D. (Y.C.), set him on the throne at K£shghar as Eh£n of Mogholist^. Ehizr now allied with Tymur, and sent him as a gift the beautiful Tokal Eh£nim, one of the widows of the late enemy of both. He enforced a strict observance of the Muhammadan Shariat amongst the Jattah nomads, who were still mostly Budhists; and next to E£shghar he made Turf^n the second capital of the Moghol Eh jcan — the title he revived on ascending the throne. Tymur died in his reign, and then Ehizr, becoming more independent, restored the old Moghol form of government, which, during the disordered rule of his predecessor, had &llen to n^lect. He now granted to his benefactor and friend, the Amir Ehu- dadid, the rank and privileges that had been originally accorded by Changiz to his ancestor, Aortubo, with the additions made thereto by Toghluo Tym^r on behalf of Bol&ji, and by himself, now, in favour of his faithful adherent. The privileges originally granted by Changiz were the following : — First, Timdn^ ^^i='^ Banner of ten thousand men.'^ Second, Aa<;^a s^'Eettledrnm.'^ Third, Cushtif^togh = " Camp-banner,^' of which two were allowed. Fourth, Oir = " Armour,'' which none but the Ehiln had the power to remove from the person. Fifth, Jirga^s. '^ Hunting circle," with power to punish according to rule those who infringed it^ regu- lations. Sixth, AmiriMus^" Commander of his tribe." Seventh, Sar-duwdnzn^^ Top seat in Court," at a bow length on either side of the Ehitn. To these Toghluc Tymur added two others, namely: Eighth, Amiri CW^i^»==:'' Command of a camp of one thousand men," with power to promote and reduce without reference to the Ehan. Ninth, Tarkhm^^^VdixiLon of crime to the ninth conviction," for Amir Bolaji and his direct heirs; on conviction of the tenth crime to be bled to death from both arms. Ehizr Ehoja now added another for Amir Ehudad^, namely, tenth, ¥asdwul=i ^^ Provost," at feasts and entertainments. One Yasdtpul of the Ehdn to be mounted on his right hand, and one Yasdwul of the Amir to stand on his right hand at Court. After drinking the cups to be sealed with their respective signets by the Yasdwul, He gave the title of G4rikdn also to Ehudddid and made it hereditary. These privileges and ranks descended from Anur Ehudidid to lus son Muham- mad Shih, and from him to his nephew Syad Ali, and then to his son Muhammad Hydar, and his son Muhammad Husen, and his son Mirz& Hydar (the author of TMkhi RasAidi) , and to his son Syad Muhammad, in whom they became extinct 940H.=1638A.D. Previous to the assumption of this royal prerogative, however, Ehizr had to experience the weight of Tymdr's vengeance, when, in 791 H.s 1389-90 A.D., owing to the obstinate hostility of the Jattah, he undertook his final campaign for the subjugation of Mogholistan, after his return from ttie conquest of Afghanistan. He took its capital, Almiligh, and ravaged the whole country up to Eaidu, where he fixed his head-quarters. Here, in the charming and productive valley of Ynlduz, he enjoyed the delights of its climate, and the pleasures of its attractive scenery of clear streams, fresh meadows, and umbrageous forests, amidst a succession of feasts and hunting excursions ; whilst his vast army in four grand divisions swept the whole country north and south of the Tianshan range, and finally rejoined him there with the world of their plunder and captives. Of the two southern divisions, one ravaged the country from Andij^n and E^hgh^r along the southern skirts of Allah-t^h or Alatagh to Eard Ehoja beyond Turfiin ; whilst the other did likewise from S^righ Eul and Eokyir, along the north base of the Ehutan and Sirigh Uighur country, across by Eatak and Lob to the appointed rendezvous. At Yulduz Tymdr divided the spoil amongst his troops, transported whole tribes of the population to Samaroand, restored Ehizr to the ( 154 ) government of his cruslied and crippled people^ married his daughter^ and^ leaving T.R.. the main army with its train of captives to follow^ set off with a party of light horse on the Ibtk Shdbdn and arrived at Samarcand 1th Bamazdn 791H.^ thus accomplishing a journey of three months in as many weeks. In this campaign the divisions operating on the north of the Alitagh overran the whole country between the sandy steppes on the north and the green vallies of Yulduz on the south. They took the royal city of Aymil Guja^ which^ according to Yule^ was probably built on the bank of the Aymil river from the Alakol^ and was the original capital of the refugee Khitay, who founded the Kara Khitay empire, and is now represented by, probably, Chughuchak of Turbagh^tai. One more expedition was sent in the following spring against Anga Tora of Z.N.T. Kar&t£l, an active aUy of Khizr in the last campaign. The invaders devastated afresh the country up to Alm^ligh, and, driving Anga Tora from his capital, pursued him to the River Irtish, beyond which he escaped into the county of Tolus, whence come the Sumur = sable, Cdcum = otter, and other furs. After this Tymur was occupied for many years in his western conquests, and the invasion of India. On his return to Samarcand, for the nineteenth time, with the spoils and treasures of one-half the Asiatic continent, his insatiable pride and ambition led him to undertake the conquest of the other. Amongst the vast preparations set on foot for the conquest of China, he sent T.B. orders to Khizr Khoja, his feudatory in Mogholist^n, to sow the land at Kok-tappa with corn, and there to collect cattle for his army about to march that way. Khizr was there with the Amir Khudadad, in the early spring of 807 H.=: 1405 A.D., to superintend the collection of supplies for the advancing host. One day as he and his friend were seated in their camp discussing affairs over a social cup of (?«/»»2;= fermented mare^s milk, a figure in white, mounted on a black horse, suddenly dashed past the guards, and galloping into camp made for the spot where they were seated, and announcing in a loud voice '^ Amir Tymur lies dead at Atrir,^' suddenly disappeared from sight before the guards running up from all sides could stop him. '^ Ajinn:=z^ ghost^ most likely'' remarks the historian I quote, " for confirmation of the fact was not received till forty-five days later.'' Tymdr crossed the Syhon on the ice, and was obliged to halt at Atr^r, also called Tiiih, on account of an inflammation of the lungs. The disease rapidly increased, and after a delay here of seven or eight days he died from its effects on the ia SMddn 807 H. = 17th February 1405 A.D. (V.B.) Khizr Khoja ruled independently for several years after this, and was succeeded by his son, Muhammad Khan, who was the last of the Moghol Kh^c^n. He was a wealthy, just, and powerful Prince, and converted all his people to Islam, yet so jealous was he of the turban, the outward emblem of the Faith, being worn by any but the priesthood and his own officials, that he punished any of the Tartar peasantry who dared to desecrate the sacred head-piece, by securing their own national fur caps upon their heads by horse shoes pegged to their skulls. The Moghol have no record of the date of his birth or death; but, Ulugh Beg in M&wardnahar, and Sh^hrukh in Khur^an, were his contemporaries. He was succeeded by his son Sher Muhammad Khan, during whose reign the country enjoyed security and prosperity. His brother, Sher Ali Oghlin, died aged eighteen years during his life, and left a son named Wais Khan. He rebeU^ against his uncle, and formed a band of cazzdc = robber, with whom he harried the Mawarainahar border. He was joined by adventurers and discontents from all parts of the country, and, amongst others of note, by Syad Ali, the grandson of Khudadad, as will be presently related. On the death of Ty™^^^ ^^ ^^7 surviving son, Shihrukh, was at Herat, so he V.B. appointed his grandson. Fir Muhammad, as his successor. But, whilst he was debauching at Kabul, Sult&n Khalil, the son of Mir^nshah, who happened to be with the army, got possession of Samarcand. Hr Muhammad now contested the ( 155 ) V.B. throne, but was slain at Shuborgbin, in 809 H.=14i06 A.D., by his own Wazir, Pir Ali T^z. Khudid^d then opposed Khalil, who had estranged the nobles from his support by his unseemly and infatuated love for Sh^dulmulkh = " the country^s joy -'' on whom, whilst neglecting for her service the affairs of his government, he squandered, to the just indignation and disgust of the royal ladies of the harem, the vast treasures left by ^mur. Khalil by his folly, and the discontent it gave rise to, soon fell under the power of his rival, to whom he was delivered by his own Generals. Khudadj^d sent him to E^shghar, and, taking possession of the capital, exposed to ridicule and insult in its streets the luxurious and fascinating Shidulmulk, the former slave of Hiji Syfuddin and now the wife of the infatuated Khalil, who, in his exile, instead of exerting himself to recover his independence and lost power, did nothing but waste his time in maudlin versification of the idol of his love. Shahrukh, hearing of the downfall of his nephew, marched from Herat against Khud^did, who fled to T£shkand and sought the aid of the Moghol King; but he killed him, and sent his head to Shdhrukh as a token of friendship. Shihni'kh, having thus secured the submission of all Mdwar^^nahar, recalled Khalil from Kashghar, and, restoring to him his love, sent him to tlie government of Ir^c, on the way whither he died, 812 H. = 1409 A.D. ; and appointed his own eldest son, the celebrated Ulugh Beg, to the government of Miwaranahar. T.B. At this time the Amir Khud^d^d was in attendance on Muhammad Khan in Mogholistdn, and had left his son, Syad Ahmad, to govern at Kashghar. He was deaf and had an impediment in his speech, and was altogether a weak and unpopular ruler ; and was soon deposed by Khoja Sharif, one of the city magnates, who invited Ulugh Beg over, and delivered the city to him. Ahmad fled to his father in Mogholistan, and died there soon after ; and the aged Khud^d^d then adopted his son, Syad Ali as his favourite. He was a fine soldierly youth, and a noted hunter, bat, seemingly, as liable as others to the. tender emotions of love. When Ahmad Mirz£ of the Tymur family fled from Shahrukh, he sought asylum with Amir KhudAd^d in Mogholistan. He was accompanied by his sister, and with this young lady Syad Ali fell in love. When they left on their return homewards he accompanied the refugees on a promise of marriage vrith the object of his affections. When they reached Andij^n, however, they were all seized by order of Ulugh Beg, who killed Ahmad, married his sister, and sent Ali to prison at Samarcand. He nearly died there of dysentery, but recovered on getting some of his accustomed cumiz, after he had been given up by the doctors ; and when Ulugh, a year later, went to see his father at Herat, he took this gigantic Moghol with him as a specimen of the sort of people he had to deal with on the frontier. On the way, however, he took alarm at the size of his weapons, his arrows measuring sixteen palms, and, fearful lest they should be turned against himself, sent him back to the capital with secret orders for his execution. Syad Ali, however, managed to effect his escape to T^shkand, whence he found his way to.Amir Khudidad, who, to get him out of the way, sent him to Wais Khan, at that time wandering amongst the Kalmyk of Lob and Katak, and the S£righ Uighur. Wais received him weU, and gave him his sister, Oron, in marriage, and Ali, with his bow, shot two stags for the wedding feast. From this region Wais and his new ally found their way to Turkistan. Here Wais allied with, and married, Sikanj, the sister of the Governor Shekh Nuruddin, the son of S^rboghd, Kapchak, and the enemy of his uncle Sher Muhammad Khan, with whom he waged war, till on his death he succeeded to the government. The reign of Wais Kh&n was characterized by a succession of unprofitable cam- paigns against the Budhist Kalmyk. He fought 61 actions against their Chief, Esh^n T^yshi, and only gained a single victory. He was on one occasion captured by the Kalmyk Chief, who not only spared his life, but saved him from drowning whilst crossing a river in retreat. all ( 156 ) In proof of his gratitude, Wais gave his sister, Makhtum Kh^nfm, in marriage T.R. to his chivalrous adversary on condition of his accepting Isl^m, and henceforward recognized him as an ally. This Esh^n Tayshi had his seat in the vicinity of Turf an, where he excavated several kdrez or subterranean aqueducts for the irrigation of his fields. He was very fond of hunting the wild camel, and annually made an excursion to Lob and Katak in pursuit of the game for the sake of their wool, which his mother used to weave into cloth for his vestments. And he wore none other but these. His wife, Makhtdm Kh^nim, bore him two sons, namely, Ibr&hfm Aong, and Ily^s Aong, and a daughter, K&dir Birdi, who married Mir Karim Birdi. Owing to their new creed these brothers warred with the Kalmyk, whose Chief, Ami Slnji Tdyshi, and his three hundi^ thousand people, drove them and their hundred and seventy thousand people to Mogholistan, whence again^ in the time of Dost Muham- mad, they pressed them on to the Khit£ border. Ibrahim left a son, Biboli&y, tlie Chief of the tribe of that name there, and they subsequently warred with Mansur on the Khiti border. In April-May 1420 A.D. Amir Ehud£d£d received and entertained the embassy Y.C. under Sh^( Khoja, with Ghyjthuddin and five hundred followers, from Shdhrukh to the Emperor of China. Their route from Her&t wajs by Balkh and Samarcand to Tashkand and Syrdm ; and thence to Asferah, where the Amir met them and for- warded their progress by Yulduz to TurfSn, whence they went on by Kari Khoja to Ats^fi, and Kimil on the Chinese frontier. They returned two years later by the desert route to Khutan, and thence to K^hghar ; and on by Andijan to Samarcand and Herat, owing to the Moghol route on the north of the Allitigh being closed by disturbance amongst the tribes. Amir KhudidM was a pious, benefioent, and popular governor, and administered the government of MugfaoUstan during the reigns of four Chaghtiy Kh^s. The cities of Kishghar, Yirkand, Khutan, Aksti, Bdy, and Kusan or Kuchi T.R. were held by his sons, grandsons, and nephews, and his dependents numbered twenty- four thousand families. Yet he had neither flocks nor herds, but lived frugally and simply iu a single Khargah, and for a journey depended on the loan of his neighbour's horses. He q)ent his wealth in ransoming and liberating the Musalmjtns enslaved by the Moghols, who habitually raided Turkistin, T^hkand, and Andijan in this pursuit. In his old age seeing no prospect of restoring order in the country under the rule of Wais, he favored the schemes of Ulugh Beg, an3 inviting him to Chui, there made the Moghol over to him. The tribes, however, disapproving the transfer of their liberties, dispersed to their steppes, and Khudid&d, no longer able to stay amongst them, decided on making the pilgrimage to Mecoa^ which even in his time seems to have been, as now, ^he last resort of unsuccessful statesmen and rulers. For this purpose he returned with Ulugh Beg to Samtircand, and was thence forwarded by him with eveiy mark of attention and hospitality to Herat. From this, after a short stay, he went on to Mecca, and died at Medina, where he was buried, aged ninety-seven years. . Meanwhile Ulugh sent a force under Sdtuk Khin to reduce Mogholistdn. He met and engaged the Moghol under their Chief near Isigh Kol ; and, the nomads being put to flight, Wais endeavoured to rally them by heading a charge against the Samarcand troops, but, his horse stumbling at a ditch, he was thrown, and instantly beheaded by one of Situk^s attendants. On this his army dispersed to their camps, and Satuk then led his troops against K^hghar, where he was killed by Karikdl Ahmad, a g^ndson of Khud^diid. Ulugh then despatched an army against Kishghar to avenge his death. Cardkul was seized, and sent prisoner to the capital, where he was executed ; whilst the district, as Andijan had been before, was annexed to Samarcand, and govi^rned by officers of the Doghldt family appointed by Ulugh. But Aksu, Biy Kiisin, Turfin, Yirkand, Khutan, &c., continued in the hands of Khudidid^s family. ( 157 ) T.R. On the death of Wais Eban^ the government of Mogholistin became divided. The northern States of Zungh£r fell successively to his sons Eshin Boghi and Yunus^ whilst the southern States of Eashghar fell to Syad Ali (whose capital was at Aksd)^ the Minister of Wais^ and to his successors^ heirs of the Amir Khudddid. As the events occurring in these regions during the rule of these rival governors has not been hitherto published^ so far as I am aware^ I here introduce an abridged record of them as gathered from the Tar4iAi Rathidi, Wais left two sons^ Yunus and Eshan Boghi^ each of whom was supported by his own faction in claiming the succession. The nobles who favoured Yunus, then A lad of thirteen years, carried him off to Ulugh at Samarcand to gain his recogni- tion and support ; but he, in 832 H.=1428 A.D., sent him out of the way to his father at Herat. Here Shahrukh placed him under the charge of MauUni Sharifuddin Ali, Yazdi, the most celebrated scholar, poet, and divine of the time^ to be educated. Yunus remained under his tuition for twelve years, till the great teacher's death. And then during another twelve years, after travelling in Persia and Arabia, he settled at Shir^z. Meanwhile Esh^n Boghi ruled the Moghol tribes amidst a scene of unmiti- gated disorder, nshercd in at the very commencement of his reign by the murder of Tymtir, Uighur, his Governor of Tarfan. He was torn to pieces by the nobles, who then, terror struck at their own rash barbarity, fled the counlay. In this disorder Syad Ali, the grandson of Amir Khudid^d, and Wazir of Wais — ^who, for his services in the wars with the Kalmyk, had been granted by the latter the country of Khutan in fief — seized Aksu from his brothers, Adil Momin and Syad Muhammad, both of whom he killed, and, bringing Esh^n Bogh^ from Moghoust^n, established him in it as the capital of his government, with himself as Minister. From this Syad Ali waged a predatory warfare against Ulugh on the borders of Turkist^n and Fargh^na, and ultimately succeeded in recovering for himself all the country under his grandfather's government, which, during the fourteen yearn since his departure, had become divided amongst his descendants, and partly annexed hy Ulugh to Samarcand. When Ulugh Beg, on the death of his fattier, oame to the throne at Samarcand, in 850 H. = 1446 A.D., he confirmed Amir Khud£d£d in his hereditary govern- ment, and the Amir appointed his son, Syad Ahmad, to the charge of K^sbghar; but on his deposition by Khoja Sharif, as has been before mentioned, Ulugh appointed one Sultan Malik, Doghl^t, to the government on the part of Samarcand. He was in turn succeeded by, first, Hdji Muhammad, Sh^ysta, and then by Pir Muhammad, BirMs, the nominees of Ulugh. Syad Ali, tiie son «f Syad Ahmad, now attempted to recover the city from the Haji with a force of only seven thousand men, but, suffering an ignominious defeat at the hands of the Bukh^rd troops, fled back in disorder to Aksii. He renewed the attack in the following year during harvest time, and, laying waste the country, plundered the suburbs, and hastily retired before he could be brought to action by the Samarcand Governor. Owing to his remissness on this occasion the Sh^ysta was replaced by a BirMs, one Pir Muhammad, sumamed Bangi from his constant intoxication by the drug called bang (the resin of the hemp plant) ; and, Syad Ali again appearing under the walls during the third harvest, the citizens, to avert the famine threatened by another destruction of the crops, seized the worthless Bangi, and delivered him to the invader, who at once executed him, and took possession of Kishghar, to the joy of the populace who had been greatly oppressed by the foreign governors. Syad Ali now restored order, and, during a rule of 24 years, proved a just and popular governor. The people prospered and multiplied, and cultivation and cattle increased with amazing rapidity. He left three sons and two daughters, and the share of heritage falling to the lot of one of the former, Muhammad Hydar, the grandfather of the author from whom this account is derived, included one hundred and twenty thousand sheep. ( 158 ) The rest of the country, however, still continued in a very disordered state. The T.R. Jaris nobles, with the B^ren tribe and Konji nobles, joined the Kalmyk in plundering Mogholistan north of the Tianshan y the Cdloji and others joined Abulkhyr in Uzbakist^n ; whilst the Kirghiz of Atbashi and Isigh Kol harried the Farghina and T^shkand borders. During this period of disturbance, Esh^n BoghiL, in 855 H.= 1450 A.D., being joined at Atbdshi by Mir Muhammsid Shih, the son of Khud^diid, carried an incursion across the borders, and plundered the districts of Turkist£n, T^shkand, and Syrdm. And ag^ain, taking advantage of the absence of Abu Siid Mirzi, the great grandson of ^mxkv and successor of Ulugh at Samarcand, in his campaign against Khurfis&n (on the death of Sh^rukh), he invaded Andijin, seized the fort, and, liberating its governor, Ali Kochak, on ransom, plundered the country, and retired to the hills. From this secure retreat he repeated his incursions till Abu S^id, powerless to check him, recalled Ytinus from his exile, and, making a treaty of alliance with him, set him up with an army, and sent him to recover his patrimony from his younger brother. Yunus at this time, 860 H.= 1455 A.D., was forty-one years of age. He set out on his enterprise without delay, and on arrival in Mogholistan was joined by the Konji tribe under their Chief, Fir Hriji, whose daughter, Doulat Begum, he married. She bore him three sons. At Isigh Kol he wajs joined by the Begjik tribe with their Chief, Mir Ibrahim, the nephew of Fir Hacc Birdi. With these adherents to his cause Yunus marched against K^shghar. Here the aged Syad Ali summoned to his aid fish^n Boghd, who at the time was in Yulduz. He hastily collected sixty thousand Jattah, and arrived at K^shghar in eleven days with but six thousand of his men. Yunus, nevertheless, was defeated and driven back to Mogholistan, where his lately made friends, deserting him, returned to their own camps and pastures ; and his borrowed army, following their example, took their own ways back to their homes. Yunus, with only a few trusty servants, wandered awhile in distress and disguise, and finally returned to Abu Siid in Khuris^n, attended by a single slave, whom, in the absence of any other property, he presented as an offering on first admission to his patron^s presence. Abu Sdid, on learning the deplorable state of his affairs, restored the faithful slave to him, and, setting him up afresh, gave him a residence at Banikand, called also Sh^hrikhi. Here he provided him with a fresh army, and once more sent him to renew the attempt to recover his throne. Syad Ali died at K^shghar in 862 H.=1457 A.D., and left two sons, Siniz Mirzi, by a Jards wife, and Hydar Mirzi, by Oron Nishin Khinim, the aunt of Yunus and sister of Wais Khan. According to Moghol custom, S^nfz, the eldest, succeeded to the government; but he was a mild and timid Frince, and, resigning ELishghar and Y^ngi Hiss^ to his brother, retired to the less disturbed Ydrkand, which he made his capital. Hydar was married to Daulat Nig^r Kh^nim, the daughter of Esh^n Boghi, and his sympathies were, consequently, with him instead of with Yunus. And on the death of his father-in-law, in 866 H.=:146I A.D., he allied with his son and successor Do8t Muhammad. Siniz on the contrary allied with Yunus. The brothers did not agree, and Yunus, after his return from Abu Said set up with a fresh army, now again coming to K^hghar as rightful King, Hydar left the place and joined Dost Muhammad at Aksti. After some stay at K£shghar, during which he contracted a marriage with the daughter of the King of Badakhsh^n, his nomads fretting under the restraints of city life, and deserting him with increasing frequency, Yunus was afraid of being left alone in his newly recovered capital, and, consequently, appointing Siniz to the Oovemment of Kishghar, he returned to Mogholistan with his r^tless wanderers. Siniz died at ELishghar, after a reign of seven years, by a &1I from his horse, in 869 H.sl464 A.D., and Hydar at once took possession of the city from Aksu. Dost Muhammad at the same time made an attempt to seize Yirkand, but, the gates being ( 169 ) T.B. closed against him^ he consented to retire on the surrender of the family oi Siniz, whose widow, Jam^k Aghi, he forthwith married, and whose sons, AMbakar and 'Umar, and a daughter, Khan Sultin Kh&nim, he sent off to Aksu ; whilst he himself turned off to plunder Kishghar during the temporary absence of Hydar at Y^ngr Hissar. Dost Muhammad was seventeen years old when he succeeded his father at Aksii, and was supposed to be mad from his eccentricities, the most noted of which was his assumption of the character of a darvesA with the name Shams Abd^l. He added the title Addal to the names of all his courtiers and public officers, and insisted on their being so addressed in all official correspondence or business. His treacherous conduct now at Eishghar estranged Hydar from his interests, and sent him oyer to the side of YiSnus ; whilst Ab&bakar, to whom he had given his sister, Husn Nigir Ehinim, in marriage, terrified by his violent bursts of temper, fled to his uncle at Eishghar ; and Dost, to be rid of him entirely, sent his bride after him. Following this the mad youth insisted on marrying one of his late fother's widows. His desire was prohibited by the clergy as unlawful, but he executed seven of them in turn, and then an eighth was found willing to perform the ceremony on the grounds that such a connexion was lawful only to such an infidel. Dost Muhanmiad was seized with a violent colic on the nuptial night with his step-mother, and died six days later, aged twenty-four years, in b 78 H. = 1468 A. D., having reigned seven years. The date of his death is told in the chronogram ao khik murd^ " that pig died.'' In the disorder following, his son, Eabak Sultan OghUn, fled to Jdlish and Turf^ ; and Yunus, waiting his opportunity on the frontier, came down and seized Aksu. But his nomads again deserted him to join Eabak, and he was forced to return to Mogholist^n. Here, on the Ayla river, he was attacked by Ami S^nji Tiyshi, the Ealmik Chief, and, being defeated with great slaughter of his Moghol, was compelled to retreat to Ear^toci on the River Syhon. His camp here, whilst Yunus lad crossed the frozen river on a hunting excursion, was surprised by Buruj OghUn, son of J^ni Beg, son of Abulkhyr, who with his marauding Uzbak took shelter from the inclemency of the weather in the Khargah tents with the Moghol women and old men. Yunus on receiving intelligence of this hurried back, and, surrounding the enemy, attacked and slew most of them with their leader, only a few escaping back to the steppe. Shortly after this, in the spring, Yiinus moved to Tdshkand, where Shekh Jam^l Ehar was Governor on the part of Samarcand, which, with Hissar, Eundtiz and Badakhsh&n, on the death of Abu S^id in Irac, had fallen to his son. Sultan Ahmad ; whilst Hari and Ehur^sin had passed to Husen Mirz4 ; and Fargh^na with Andij&n to 'Umar Shekh, the son of Abii S&id ; to each of whom Yunus subsequently allied himself by giving a daughter in marriage. On his arrival now at Tashkand, in 875 H. = 1470 A.D., Shekh Jam^l seized Yunus, and, imprisoning him, gave his wife to Ehoja Ealan ; but she and her maids set upon and killed him with bodkins and needles the first time he presumed to enter her chamber. A year later Abdul Cudtls, the nephew of Earfm Birdi, Doghhit, killed Shekh Jamal, liberated Yunus, and presented him with his persecutor's head. His Moghols now gathered round their Eing, and excused their perfidy in delivering him up to Jamdl as the result of his bringing them to city life, which to them was worse than prison. Yunus admitted his error, and returned with them to Mogholis- tin, where he ruled many years in peace ; Hydar at E^shghar being his tributary. On his return this time to Mogholist&n, Eabak was killed at Turf^n by his nobles, and his head brought to Yunus as a token of friendship ; but he punished the bearers, and reproved the nobles for slaying their Prince, even though a rebel. After he had killed Buruj OghUn at Eur^toci, Yunus sent his eldest daughter, Mihr Nig^r Ehinim, as wife to Sult&n Ahm^d, the son of Abu Siid, to cement the friendship and main- tain the alliance his father had initiated between the long estranged Moghol and Chaghtay. And now on his establishment in the government of MogholistiUj A 12 ( 160 ) 880 H.ss 1475 A.D.^ be gave his youngest daughter^ Cutldgh Nigdr EMnim^ in T.R. marriage to XJmar Shekh (another son of Abu S&id), his friend and ally^ the Goyer- nor of Andijin. She became the mother of the celebrated B^bur B^hdh^ the Emperor of India^ and founder of the Mughol dynasty there. Yunus and ^XJmar Shekh, being friendly neighbours^ often exchanged visits in their respective dominions. On one of these occasions 'Umar sought the aid of Yiinas to oust Ahmad from Samarcand ; bat he refosed on account of his marriage rations with both. Ahmad, however, being informed of the plot prepared to attack his brother, who at once called in the aid of Yunus, and settling him at Akhsi^ thus averted the menaced hostility. 'Umar now wished Yunus to retire, but, as he refused, they fought, and Y^nus capturing his son-in-law, made peace, and r^tored him to his government. He then returned to Mogholist^n. On this Ahmad renewed his preparations to attack 'Umar Shekh, and he again summoned Yunus, and settled him at Marghil^n. At this juncture Khoja Nasiruddin UbeduUah, a divine whose sanctity drew crowds to pros- trate themselves in the dust before him, intervened and made peace between the three belligerents — ^Ahmad, Umar and Yunus, in the last of whom the arbiter, to his surprise, instead of the uncouth, wild Moghol he expected to see, found a reverential devotee, an elegant Chief, and polished scholar, the compeer of the learned Ulugh Beg. He treated him with marked favour and patronage, pronounced him a good Musalm^n, and, declaring his Moghol to be within the fold of the Faithful, prohibited as unlawful the custom of enslaving them as iTa/rs infidels. In K^hghar, meanwhile, another Prince was rising into power. The widow of S&niz, whom Dost Muhammad had taken to wife when he attacked Yirkand, became, after his death, the wife of Hydar, the brother of her first husband. She had borne Saniz two sons, Ab^bakar and Umar ; and to his brother she bore two other sons, Muhammad Husen, Gurik^n (the father of the author here quoted), and Syad Muhammad Mirz&. This matron, Jamdk Aghi, favoured her first bom, Ab£bakar, who was a gigantic athlete, a brave soldier, and cunning himter. These qualities made him very popular amongst the nobles, and his mother, deceiving Hydar as to the character of his ambition, secretly drew away the nobles from his court to the side of her son, and encouraged him to recover his birthright, and take the lead in the government. Abdbakar having soon collected some three thousand followers, fled to Y&rkand, and, seizing the city, set up as independent ruler in succession to S^niz Mirz£. His brother Umar joined him there, and they shortly set out together to annex Khutan. On the way there, however, they quarrelled, and Abibakar, depriving his insubordinate and ambitious brother of sight, sent him back to Hydar at Elbhghar. From this, on its fall, he went to Samarcand, but returned again after some years, and died there in 921 H. = 1514 A.D. Khutan at this time was in the possession of two brothers, Kh£n Nazr and Cul Nazr, the hereditary descendants of Khizr Shdh, a brother of Amir Khud£- ddd, who had given the place to him in the distribution of his government amongst his family. These two brothers, in the anarchy following on the death of Syieul Ah, became independent, and made repeated attempts to subdue both Yarkand and K^hghar. Consequently Hydar did not now oppose Ab^bakar in his attempt to reduce them. His first expedition failed, but in the second, which shortly followed it, whilst swearing to terms on the Euran, a scuffle ensued regarding the possession of the book, and m the mel^ both brothers were seized and killed. In the midst of the confusion Ab£bakar took possession of the city, and proclaimed himself King. He was for some time following this engaged in a succession of expeditions to subjugate the hill districts to the south and west of Khutan ; and, having finally secured his conquests in those quarters, he next turned his arms against Hydar at KAshghar. At this time Abdul Cudys (who had killed Shekh Jamil Khar, and liberated Ytinus, for which service he had been rewarded with the rank of Amir and titie of ( 161 ) T.R. Gurikan, and granted the government of the Doghlat tribe in Andij&n^ but who had since rebelled and fled the country) was a refugee with Hydar, who had given him his daughter^ Aghi Sult&n Kh^nim^ in marriage; and he now sent him against Abibakar who was plundering Y£ngi Hissar. The successful young soldier^ however, quickly defeated hun, and Cudus, with three hundred men, fled to Badakhshiln. Here he joined Sultan Mahmud, who gave him the government of Eunduz, where he was subsequently kiUed in a border skirmish with l£e Kator infidels. After the defeat and flight of Cudus, Hydar issued with an army of thirty thousand men to oppose the advance of Abibakar, but was driven back with great loss. In this extnsmity he sent urgent appeals for succour to his maternal uncle, Yunus, who, hastily collecting fifteen thousand Moghol, hurried to the aid of his tributary proteg^. On his approach Abibakar called in his plundering parties and retired to his capital > and Hydar, now joined by Yunus, followed to besiege him in Yarkand. Ababakar, however, nothing daunted by their advance, made a vigorous sally from the city, and put them all to flight in the greatest disorder and haste. Hydar, with only two or three attendants who could keep pace with him, reached Kishghar vrithout drawing rein in twenty-four hours, whilst the panic struck Moghol fled with- out ever turning to look behind them. Ababakar, proud of his success, lavished rewards on his soldiers ; and Hydar, disgusted, was only too glad to get rid of the rabble who now deserted him : whilst Yunus, full of wrath, took his way back to Mogholist&n vowing condign ve^ce. He returned the following year, 885 H.= 1480 A.D. with sixty thousand Moghol, and joining Hydar and his new levy of thirty thousand men at K&shghar, they marched together to Y^.rkand, and completely invested the city. Ab£bakar, in face of the odds against him, confined himself to the defence of his capital, for which he had only five thousand men, including three thousand tried veterans; and he employed them to the best advantage, and with an unlocked for success in his sallies. Each of his horsemen was accompanied by an archer, and a sworded shield-bearer on eaek side. As they neared the enemy, and their horse came to the charge, the bowmen shot their arrows, whilst the shield-bearers capered and tumbled, and, rat- tling their shields, performed wild antics to frighten the adversary's horse ; and with such success that many of their riders were thrown and at once beheaded. In this man- ner Abibakar's skirmishers advanced against the besiegers, and, a sudden panic seizing the Moghol, they broke and fled in utter disorder. The efforts of Yunus failing to rally them, he was forced to follow, and retired with his discomfited host to Aksu, where he wintered with his family and army. Hydar meanwhile was pursued by Abibakar, and hastily collecting five thousand families, abandoned his capital and joined Yunus. On this K^shghar fell into the hands of the victor, and thousands of its people, fleeing from the vengeance of his soldiery, emigrated to Andij^n. On iiie first occasion of Yunus coming to K&shghar to aid Siniz against Hydar and Dost Muhammad, he married Sh^ih Begum, the daughter of Shdh Sultan Muhammad, the King of Badakhshin. She bore him two sons and two daughters, namely, Mahmud, bom 868 H.=1465 A.D., and Ahmad, and Nig£r Kh^nim and Daulat Ehinim. During his stay at Aksu this winter after the defeat at Y^Lrkand, Hydar, having lost Kishghar and anxious to secure Aksu for himself, detadied the youthful Ahmad from his father on the promise of giving him the place so soon as be recovered his own government ; and they both rebelled and seized one of the two forts the place contained. On tiiis Yiinus summoned his eldest son, Mahmud, who, during his absence ruled in Mogholist^n, to come to his aid. He arrived in seventeen days with thirty thousand Moghol, and they then besieged the rebellious Hydar. After forty days, during which Ahmad repenting of his folly had effected his escape and gained the pardon of his parent, Hydar, finding himself deserted and hard pressed for food, surrendered imconditionally. Yunus generously pardoned his treachery, and, on his departure in the spring, took him to Mogholistdn, and there attached his son, Muhammad ( 162 ) Husen (the father of my author), a lad aged twelve yeaxs, as companion to Mahmud; T.R. and they grew up together mutual friends as King and Minister. In the summer f oUowing, Ytiniis purposed another attack upon Abibakar for the recovery of K&shghar, but was called to Andijin and settled at 0sh by Umar Shekh^ who was again threatened by Ahmad seeking to seize Tashkand and Shihrukhi^ which^ since the death of Shekh Jam£l, had fallen into his hands as part of Fargh^a. Yunus passed the winter at TJsh, and thus prevented war between the quarrelsome ' brothers ; and in springs leaving Hydar and Muhammad Husen in the government of tish, rejoined the Moghol under Mahmud. On his departure, Umar, jealous and mistrustful of the presence of Hydar, ousted him, and he went with his son as a refugee to Abibakar at K&shghar. Here he detained Muhammad Husen a year, and then sent him to Sultan Mahmud, son of Abu SUA, the Governor of Badakhsin, whence he subsequently was invited to rejoin Yunus, and give him the benefit of the medical skill for which he had obtained a reputation in the country, and nurse him during his last fatal illness. In the autunm following this, however, Ahmad, taking advantage of the absence of Yunus, attacked T&shkand, and Umar once more recalling his trusty ally settled him at Sjr&m for the winter. Whilst here, his second son, Ahmad, hating the restraints of city life, deserted Yunus, and with a number of his Moghol returned to the freedom of his steppes. His flight was unnoticed owing to the danger threatened by the advance from Samarcand of the other Ahmad, to check whose progress Mahmtid was sent out with thirty thousand men. He was joined in the vicinity of the menaced city by Umar Shekh with fifteen thousand men from Farghdna, and they both attacked the enemy. After a few unimportant skirmishes the Khoja Nasfruddin Ubedulla interposed to prevent further hostility between the brethren, and made peace between the three by giving the bone of contention to Ydnus, who now in 890 H.=1484 A.D. became King at T&hkand. As a bond of friendship on assuming the government, he betrothed his son, Mahmtid, to Kariktiz, the '^ black- eyed " daughter of Ahmad ; and the belligerents then retired to their respective governments the best of friends. Yunus fell sick shortly following this, and, after a lingering illness of two years, died aged seventy-four years. He was the most enlightened, merciful, and just of all the Moghol Khins, and stands amongst them an unique character for learning, liberality, and piety. Mahmud now succeeded to the throne at Tashkand ; but the death of Yunus was the signal for a fresh outbreak of hostilities, and Ahmad and Umar, free from the controlling influence of his superior character, at once renewed a rival contest for its possession. Mahmud easily repulsed a force sent against him by Umar Shekh, but in the year following Ahmad attacked the city with an overwhelming force of a hundred and fifty thousand men, and would have taken it but for the treachery of his General, Shithibeg Kh^n or Shaibdn. This successful adventurer, the founder of the Shaib^n dynasty in M&warinahar, was the son of Shih Buddgh, and grandson of Abulkhyr. After the death of Burdj Khdn he experienced varied fortunes in M^wardnahar, and finally took service with Ahmad, and was classed amongst his nobles, over all of whom, except only Mir Abdul Al{ Tarkhiln, he held superior « rank. His exalted position — which he maintained with a body-guard of three hundred devoted adherents of his own tribe — and the dislocated state of society at the time, favored the ambitious views of this Uzbak fortune hunter. During his service at Samarcand he had made several friends, and not a few jealous rivals as well, against the machinations of whom his trusty band of countrymen afforded him protection. The present opportunity offered him a chance he did not fail to take advantage of. During the three days^ siege of T^bhkand, he opened communications, and plotted with Mahmud to desert Ahmad^ and join him with the force under his command. ( 163 ) T.R. The arrangement was that Mahmud should make a sally seemingly against him^ but really throw his force against Abdul Ali^ whilst he himself^ feigning retreat^ would &dl upon and plunder Ahmad's camp. The scheme was successfully carried out. Ahmad lost his camp and army^ thousands in their flight being drowned in the Parag and Khyr rivers^ and himself with difficulty escaped to the capital with only a few followers. Peace was now made through the intervention of the Khoja Nasiruddin^ and the luxurious and haughty Ahmad^ giving the betrothed Carikuz to Mahmud in marriage^ acknowledged him as an independent King. After this Mahmud gave his elder sister by a year^ Khub Nig^r Kh^nim^ in marriage to Muhammad Husen^ Gurik^n^ the companion of his youth and the faith- ful friend and supporter of his father^ and appointed him to the government of Oratappa. To Shilhibeg Eh^n at the same time^ in return for his services at T^shkand^ he gave the government of Turkistdn. Muhammad Husen ruled at Oratappa for nine years^ during which the following important political changes occurred in the neighbouring States. Farghina^ after the death of Umar Shekh^ was contested by his two sons^ B^bur and Jah&ngir. Bukhir^ and Samarcand were contested by B^yncar and Sultan Ali^ the sons of Sultan Mahmud^ the son of Abu S&id^ on the one hand^ and by Sh^hibeg on the other. Khurasan flourished under the glorious and powerful rule of Sultdn Husen Mirzd. Whilst Ir&c^ on the death of Yakub^ the son of Uzun Hasan^ passed into the hands of Sh^h Ism^il^ the founder of the new Saffavi dynasty. The Dasht Kapchik^ meanwhile, was ruled by Burunduc, the Chief of the Juji ulns. And Shdsh=;T£sh- kand continued the seat of Mahmud, the son of Yunus, who was the most noted Prince of Chaghtdy descent. He first in 889H.=:1484 A.D. settled the Moghol, who are also called Kara Khit&y, in cities, and established the rule of their Khans who now roamed full masters of Sh^sh^ which they held up to 908 H.= 1492 A.D. The Moghol Khans were from father to son, Toghluc Tymur, who was set on the throne by Amir BoUji, Khizr Khoja, Sher Ali, Wais, Yunus, and Mahmud. Their ministers or hereditary governors were from father to son^ Amir BoHji, who first introduced IsUm amongst the Moghol, Khudid^d, Syad Ahmad^ Syad All, Muhammad Hydar, and Muhammad Husen. The settlement of Sh&hibeg at Turkist&n gave offence to his enemies, the sons of Gadiy and J&ni Beg, who, at the instigation of the aggrieved Ahmad, collected the Kazz^k and Uzbak, and waged war with Mahmud. He was twice defeated by them, and then, his supporter deserting him, his court became the refuge of all sorts of adventurers and outiaws. Umar Shekh at this time 899 H.=: 1493 A.D. was crushed to death by the fall of his house, and Ahmad at once set out from Samarcand to secure Andij^n from annexation by the Moghol. The nobles, however, set Bdbur, the son of the deceased Chief, aged twelve years, on the throne, and called in the aid of Mahmud for his support. Ahmad, in the interim, had advanced to Marghildn, and, falling sick there, concluded peace, and hurried back, but died on his way to the capital. On this Sultdn Mahmud &om Hissar seized Samarcand. He died there after a rule of only six months, and then B&yncar Mirz& succeeded. Mahmud Kh&n, with the hope of restoring his declining authority, now hastened to contest its possession with him ; but, his rabble being routed at Mi^nk^l, he returned to T^shkand, and to stave off attack from himself, incited Shdhibe&r to invade the country. This the ambitious Uzbak imme- • diately did, and ended by conquering Samarcand and BukMri, an enterprise in which he was aided by B^bur. Shahibeg Kh^n now turned his arms against Mahmud at T^shkand, and he, long since reduced to a mere semblance of independence, hastily called to his aid his younger brother, Ahmad, who was ruling the nomads in Mogbolistdn. He arrived in time to oppose the Uzbak attack, but their conjoined forces were defeated, and both brothers were captured with most of their men. Shahibeg liberally set free A 13 ( 164 ) Mahmud and Ahmadj but retained nearly all their troops in his own service. The T.B. brothers^ with the wreck of their army and a few adherents who still clungp to them^ retired to Aksd^ where Ahmad died in the ensuing winter 909 H.s=1503 A.D. Mahmud after this, not being able to live in peace with his son and successor, Mansur, retired to Mogholist^n^ and after five years of very varied troubles amongst the nomads there, returned to Tashkand to seek a government from Sh£hibeg. But the rising conqueror, anticipating trouble from this rightful heir to the Government, killed him and all his family on the bank of the Khujind river in 914 H.s= 1508-9 A.D. ; and the date is commemorated in the chronogram la6i daryde KAu/and^^h&nk of the Khujind river/' Ahmad, after he had quitted his father at Syr&m, as before mentioned, returned to Mogholist&n, and spent ten years in reducing the tribes to subjection ; and he and his sons ruled there independently from 900 to 948 H. = 1494 to 1541 A.D. During the first two years he destroyed the ArMt family, exterminated the Jsxia and ether nobles, and drove out the Caloji tribe into the Kalmdk territory. His terrible slaughters gained him the name of Alaja, or " the slayer,'^ by which he is known in history. His successes against the Kazzak and Uzbak and Kahnik secured order throughout the wide extent of Mogbolist^n, and protected the country over a length of seven or eight months' journey from external invaders. In 905 H. = 1499 A.I)., having thus settled Mogholist&n, Alaja set out against Ab&bakar at Kiishgbar. On his approach Ab^bakar, provisioning both E£shghar and Yangi Hiss^r, retired to Y^rkand, and there shut himself up in its fort. Alaja, after some resistance, took Yangi Hiss^r, and on its fall, K^shghar surrendering, he wintered there. Early next spring he marched against Yirkand, but failing to take the place, plundered the suburbs, and pursued the fugitive peasantry into the hills on the west. On this Abdbakar issued from Ydrkand, and occupying the pass conducting out of the hills, there lay in wait for the enemy. He surprised and defeated Ahmad, recovered the booty taken by his troops, and drove him on from Kishghar to Mogholistto. It was a year after his return from this campaign that Ahmad, leaving his eldest son, Mansdr, to govern the Moghol, took his younger sons, S^id and Bibiijic, with him to the aid of his brother against Shdhibeg, as has been mentioned. Ahmad, or Alaja Khan, left seventeen sons of whom Mansur, the eldest, succeed- ed to the government. Iskandar died soon after his father, and finally S&id returned from his exile, and divided the country with Mansur. On the death of the father, however, all the sons quarrelled over the division of his territory, and Abibakar, seizing the opportunity of their discord, attacked and took Aksu, from which Mansur had retired to Kusin ; whence, now on the fall of his capital, he fled to Moghohstin. Ab^bakar plundered Aksii, and, destroying its fortifications and houses, transported the population to Ush Turfan, whither ako he transferred the government; and, leaving a garrison in support, returned by way of Kishghar to his capital laden with the treasures amassed by Ahmad during a reign of twenty-five years. Mansur, meanwhile, fought his brothers EhaUl and Siid for the government of the Moghol, whilst their uncle, Mahmud, unable to check the disorder or bring the brothers to reason, left the country for Tashkand, where, with all his family and followers, he was lolled, as before related. Mansur ultimately succeeded in recovering Kdsan and Aksu from his brothers Ayman and Bibajdc, who, on the decline of Abdbakar's rule, had taken possession of, restored, and re-peopled those ancient seats. And in 912 H. = 1506A.D., at Aksu, he met and msude peace with S£id, who, having seized Kishghar from Ab^bakar, now shared the country with him, and acknowledged his rights as elder brother, and '^coined and prayed '^ in his name. They reigned in peace for twenty years, during which the country flourished, and order was so securely established that travellers journeyed singly from Kh&mil on the Khita border to Andij^n through the length of the land without fear or care for provisions, finding hotels at every stage on the road. ( 166 ) T.B, Mansdr during this period waged a succession of ghazdt or religious wars against the Kalmyk and Khit^y. In one of these^ the Khoja Tajuddin of Eus^n or Kuch^ was killed. He was a descendant of the MauMna Arshaduddin^ who converted Toghliic Tymtir; and was the pupil of Maul^.n£ Ali Ghazzan of Tus=:Mashhad. Tajuddin studied for some time under Khoja Nasiruddin UbeduUa^ and was for fifty years in the service of Ahmad and Mansur. He traded and farmed largely^ and^ acquiring much wealth and influence^ took a prominent part in the government of the country. After his campaigns on the Khita border^ Mansur warred with the Eazz^k and Uzbak at Aris in Mogholistin^ where his best General^ Sufi Mirz^ Begjik^ was killed. After this he retired to Jalish and Turf^n^ and seldom again took the field. On the death of S^id he made an attempt to recover Aksu^ but was driven back^ and died in 950 H. = 1542 A.D., aged sixty years, having reigned forty-three. He left two sons, Shdh ELh^n and Muhammad Sultan, and a daughter, whom S^id took for his son Ilashid. During his later years Mansur resigned his government to his eldest son, and retired to private life for devotion to religious exercises. He is described as a pious Musalm&n, and a good governor, simple in ceremony, and atten- tive to the wants of his people. Yet as illustrative of the sentiments of morality in his time, it is related of him that he kept as private chaplain a Can or " chaunter of the Eurdn.^' He was a man with a perfect intonation, clear voice, and unfailing memory, but he was slovenly in dress, filthy in habits, and beastly in practices — qualities that gained him the opprobious nickname of Mangasik, The courtiers were scanda- lized by his shameless depravities, and urged his dismissal on the grounds of his having been l^en in an unnatural crime with a cow, but the pious Eing rejected their petition with the rebuke that he kept the man to teach him to read the Eur£n, not to rape cattle. Mansur's brother S^id, who took E^shghar from Ab^bakar, has the following history : — When fourteen years old, he and his brother, Bab&j^o, accompanied their father to the aid of his brother Mahmud when he was attacked at T£shkand by Shahibeg. In the fight at Akhsi, this S&id was wounded in the hip by an arrow, and fell into the hands of Shekh B&yzld, the governor of the place, who imprisoned him. In the year following, Shahibeg invaded Farghdna, killed B^yzid and his brother, Ahmad Tanbal, and all their family, and annexed the country. He liberated Siid and took him to Samarcand, and thence with his army in the campaign against Ehusro Shah, who had seized Hiss^r, Eunduz, and Badakhsh^n. On their return to Samarcand, and the departure of Sh£hibeg on his expedition against Ehiva, Sdid escaped to Uzkand, and thence joined his xmcle, Mahmud, at Yatakand in Mogho- list^n. In the factions then dividing the tribes there, Sdid joined his brother, Ehalil, who ruled the Eirghiz. During four years they warred against their elder brother, Mansur, and their uncle, Mahmud, till, finally, the latter withdrew and returned to T^shkand where he was killed, as related. On the departure of Mahmud, Mansur again took the field against S&(d and Elhalil, and marching from J^Iish and Turfan, met and fought them at Jarun Jalik. Each army put forward a champion for single combat. Skid's man, one Shekh Ali, was unhors^ in the first encounter by Cutlugh, the champion of Mansur. On this the Eirghiz rushed forward to rescue their fallen champion, and the Moghol, too, advancing to support their hero, both sides joined in battle. Ehalil and S&id, unable to make head or stand against their superior numbers, both fied the field, and Mansur, securing the Eirghiz, carried them away bodily and settled them at J£lish. The fugitives went to join Mahmud, but, on arrival at Akhsi, learned of his execution, and were themselves made prisoners. Ehalil was killed, and Sdid was taken before Jinibeg, the uncle of Shahibeg, who, having recently fallen from his horse and injured his head and reason, gave him his liberty. He at once set out to join Bdbur at Eabul by way of Badakhsh&n, where he rested awhile with Mirza Ehdn in the Zafar fort. At this time the strong highlands on the east of Badakh- ( 166 ) sh^n belonged to K&shghar, to which they had been annexed by Ab^bakar; whilst T.R. the cultivated Tallies to the west were held by the Uzbak. Between the two^ a few narrow glens were all that remained to a heretic king^ called Shih lUtziuddin^ Chirdgkkufhy whom the Badakhshi had set on the throne. Amongst them in his little fort of Zafar^ Mirz£ Kh&n, the only Musalmdn in the country^ led a hard and solitary life^ pinched for the bare necessaries of existence. Said remained three years at ELabal^ till Sh^hibeg or Shaib^n was killed at the battle of Marv by Sh£h Ismdil^ the new King of Persia^ and then accompanied B^bur to Kunduz. Meanwhile, Syad Muhammad Mirz^j son of Muhammad Hydar (my author's uncle) ^ had expelled J^nibeg and secured Andij^n. And he now sought the support of Bibur^ who sent Siid and other Moghol nobles to occupy the province ; and Syad Muhammad^ on being relieved of the government^ was appointed ulu9begi of the Moghol. Following this^ Abibakar^ thinking to profit by the dislocated state of affairs across the border^ invaded Andij^n with twenty thousand men from Kishghar, but was defeated at Tutlugh^ two famakh from the city^ 1^ S^id with only fifteen hundred men. In this interim^ Bibur^ having defeated the Uzbuk at Hiss^r and driven them out of Miwar^nahar^ mounted tiie throne at Samarcand in 917 H.= 1509-lOA.D. In the spring, however^ the Uzbak returned from T^hkand under ^Ubedulla Khin, who seized Bukhari. Bdbur went out to oppose him, but was defeated at Ghajdawin, and retiring to the capital, fled thence with his fainily to Hiss&r ; and the Uzbak once more gained the ascendancy. Sa'id, too, at the same time, advanced to check the enemy at T^hkand, but he also was defeated, and driven back to Andijin by Suyunj, who overran the border districts. On the return of B^bur, with the Persian army sent to his aid by Sh£h Ism&fl, S&id^ in the spring of 918H. = 1511A.D., went to seek the aid of K^«im,the Eapchik King. But he returned unsuccessful, and when, two years later, the Uzbak with a numberless host invaded Fargh£na, he quitted the country in Rabi Awwal^ the spring of 920 H.=1513A.D., and retired to Yatakand on the borders of Mogholist^n. From this he presently invaded K^hghar where Ab^bakar^ now aged sixty years, was as weak in authority as he was unpopular in rule. On the approach of the invader, Ababakar^ transporting the entire population to Yirkand, destroyed the ancient fort and city of Kashghar, which from remote times had been the capital of the country^ and the residence of the kings of the Afrisy^b dynasty. Regarding this ancient city, Mirz£ Hydar gives the following account in the Tarikhi Rashtdi : — Afr£sy£b was a Turk, and is the Boci Kh£n of the Moghol. He was the son of Pash, the son of Kharshin, the son of Tur, the son of Faridun. In later times Kdshghar was the capital of S^tuk Bughra Khdn, who introduced Islam. After him it was the capital of Gorkh^n, the Kara Khit^y King, who ruled over all Miwar&nahar ; and of his successor Koshluk, the Chief of the Naymin tribe of Christians, who was killed by the troops of Changiz in S^Hgh Chopin, whither he had fled for refuge amongst the Badakhshi. In the division of his empire, Changiz gave the countries of Mogholist&n, Kara Khitiy^ Turkistin, and Mawarinahar to his son Chaghtay. And similarly, in the distribution of his nobles, he gave to him the Doghlit tribe. Chaghtay settled them in the Mangliy Suba from Shish on the west to Jalish on the east, and from Isigh Kol on the north to Sarigh Uighur on the south. The first Doghlit who resided in the Sirigh Uighur region was Amir Biyzid, and the government has descended from father to son to Ab&bakar. Kashghar formerly produced many things that are not now known in the country, expecially the furs called cdcum =:ot\/^ry and «in;ad= ermine. Its Umits are, on the west, Sh^h and the high mountains of Bolor^ which form a chain from south to north, where they join the range of Mogholist^n ; on the east, the country beyond Tur&in 39- — The Forge. _. ^ •■■li •■ 30. — Cotton Spinning. _ J ..\ . • 1 t I I 1 J T I * » ( 167 ) T.R. to the borders of the Kalmyk country, " of which nobody knows anything but the Kdisafk" Its limit on the north is Artosh, and on the south Khutan. It is a month^s journey from north to south, bat, if one ride hard from west to east, he passes beyond cultivation and habitation in a single day. The rivers are all between KiLshghar and Khutan, and this is the only fertile part of the country : all the rest is a desert of sand, with thick jangal, and vast saline wastes, and nothing else. Many large cities have flourished on it in ancient times, but of them only Lob and Katak are now known by name. Signs of others are found, and again lost in the shifting sands, by hunters of the tiger, wild camel, and wild ox. The countiy produces lots of fruits and flowers, but there is no money( AU trade is by barter. The soil is poor and unproductive, and requires much toil ; consequently it is impossible to support an army in the country. In spring high winds obscure the air with dust, much worse than in India. K^shghar in comparison with Dashti Kapchik and Kalmyk is as a populous city, with all sorts of availables ; but in comparison with Samarcand it is as a bare desert. As the proverb says, " Ask those from Hell of Purgatory, and they call it Paradise.^' It is, however, a safe retreat from plunderers and marauders, and well suited as a place of seclusion and spiritual meditation, and has long been noted for its saints, monks, and recluses. Ab&bakar now destroyed the ancient capital of this country. He demolished its fort, and levelled its suburbs, and with ten thousand men in seven days built the new fort of K^shghar on the high bank of the Tuman river, a little higher up its course. Its area is lbOjarib=bO acres; its walls were twenty yards high, and at top wide enough for four horsemen abreast; the tower and bastions rose ten yards higher, and were all wonderfully strong. He stored this new fort with provisions, and, leaving a garrison under his General, Yusufyan, retired to Ydngi Hias&r. This, too, he put in a state for defence, and then returning to his capital fortified its defences with all haste ; and having finished these preparations, he again set out to oppose the invaders, who were pressing on from Atb^shi. S^id left his baggage with the families at Tuman-bdshi, the head waters of the Tuman river — the limit between Mogholistdn and Kdshghar — to follow afterwards, and himself pushing on with the fighting men on the third day reached Artosh. On the next day he seized the defences abandoned by Ab^bakar on Uch Burhan ridge, and came in sight of the newly built forfc, ihree/arsakA ofE to the southward. Here he mustered his army, four thousand seven hundred men, all experienced soldiers who had seen twelve years' service in Mawar^nahar. Amongst them were Doghlilt, Caraculac, Dokhtoy, BirlSs, Yarazin, Ordatagi, Atirchi, Konji, Jaras, Babarin, Begjik, Caloji, Cdrluc, Makrit, Shonc^r, and other nobles, each with his following of one hundred and fifty to two hundred men. From this S^id crossed the Tuman at the Sarman ford, two /arsakA from the fort, and meeting the army sent by Ababakar, who himself remained at Sogholuc in support of the garrison, defeated and pursued it up to the walls, under which he camped for the night. During the darkness the garrison abandoned the fort, and fled to Y^rkand, and S&id, pushing on, laid siege to Yangi Hissar, the key to the capture of both K^shghar and Ydrkand. The citadel was held by former Oenerals of AMbakar, who had been taken out of prison to conduct its defence. The chief of these was Mir Wall who, in the early career of his master, had subjugated for him the country of Bolor to the borders of Cayrtagin or Caratakin, Badakhshin, Tibet, and Kashmir ; who, later, had taken Aksu and Kus^n, and, ■ clearing them of Kirghiz and Moghol, had subdued Mogholistan ; and who, finally, invaded Farghina, and ravaged Jagr^k, Ush, and Uzkand. In Ab^bakar's second invasion oE Andijan and defeat at Tutlugh, he suspected his own people of treachery, and executed several hundred of them summarily. He reduced his General, Mfr Wali, with ignominy, rooted out his beard, emasculated him and all the males of his family, subjected the females to dishonour, and cast all into prison to labour on the roads. a 14 ( 168 ) This Mir Wall now^ through fear of his master's vengeanoe^ held out for two T.B. months at Y&ngi Hissdr^ and then, hearing of Ab&b&kar's flight from the capita!, surrendered his trust to S&id who, placing his own governor with a garrison in the fort, at once hurried on to Y^rkand. Here Ab^bakar, during the siege of Yangi Hissir, had been busy emptpng his armoury of its accumulated stores, and clearing the prisons of the crowded victims of his wrath. He now distributed sixty thousand suits of armour, including twelve thousand horse trappings, amongst the population who were enrolled en nuuse for the defence of the capital. A timid peasantry, gardeners, handicraftsmen of all trades, and other peaceable citizens, who had never handled a spear, nor shot an arrow, far less wielded a sword, and who, during a generation of unexampled tyranny, had grown up cowed by despotic condemnations to dungeons, prisoner gangs, tortures, mutilations and executions, now had arms, of which they knew not the use, thrust into their unwilling hands, and were driven out to fight. With such a pressed rabble multitude Abibakar essayed from his capital to raise the si^;e of Yangi Hiss^. At the first stage out his disorderly mob, coming in sight of an outpost picket of S&id's army, at once took fright, cast away the arms forced upon them, and dispersed in all directions. Abdbakar was now past further explosions of wrath and torture. He returned to his palace, set his son, Jahingir, in the charge of the city, and, packing up his treasures, retired with them to Outan. Six days later, Jah&ngir, on the fall of Yangi Hiss&r, collecting his valuables, gave the city up to plunder, and in the confusion and strife that ensued effected his escape to S&nju. slid, on receiving intelligence of these events at Y^rkand, immediately sent forward Khoja Ali Bah&dur to secure the place ; and he took possession of the city at the end of Rajab 92,0 H. =: 1 513 A.D. Siid followed with the rest of his army largely increased by new accessions, and mounting the throne srave the place up to plunder for two months ; daring which his troops ransacked eveifcomer. d^oUed the dtizena and their previous plunder, and secured an immense booty in rich merchandize of all sorts, together with the abandoned treasures amassed by Abibakar during a reign of forty-eight years. Immediately on arrival at the capital, Siid sent out parties in pursuit of the fugitives. Ab&bakar fled before them from Khutan to Kar£nghot^h. Here at Akt&sh he burnt, and cast into the river what he could not carry away into the mountains, and killing the spare horses and camels fled towards Tibet. On the road his followers, scenting death ahead, plundered and deserted him. The fugitive, after wandering hungry and demented some time over the bleak, desolate, and inhospital tablelands of the Tibet plateau, on the approach of winter, turned in search oi shelter from the biting frosts of that elevated region inte the sheltered valleys towards Khutan. He was intercepted, seized, and killed by a party of his many pursuers in the Karak^sh valley, where a mean temb on the river bank, two stages from ShahiduUa Khoja, now marks the site of his grave. His pursuers, after taking possession of Khutan and its treasury, sent out numerous parties on his track, and the roads leading te the mountains. One of these, at Sarpiil, found his abandoned cattle and treasures, and fishing out the sparkling gems from the clear stream, returned with a rich store of pearls, rubies, emeralds and diamonds, with rare silks and other costiy treasures. Jayingir — he was married te Khadija Snlt&n KhiLnim, full sister of S&id and fourth daughter of Alaja Khan who fell inte the hands of Ab&bakar when he took Aksu — ^was similarly pursued, and finally taken at S&nju. He was sent prisoner te Yingi Hiss&r, and ultimately executed there by order of SUA. Ab^bakar had many children, of whom he killed several for trivial offences. Jah^ngir was his eldest son, by Kh^nzada Begum, the sister of Mahmud. During his long reign of forty-eight years, Abibakar subdued Tibet te the borders of Kashmir. In 905 H. = 1499 A.D. he defeated Alaja Khan, and drove him from the country. He subjugated £olor, and annexed most of the hazdrajdt^^ ( 169 ) T.B. '' thousands'' of Badakhshin as far as Tang; and for twelve years this region^ as far as Sirigh Chop^n^ formed part of the Kishghar divdn=^ demesne, tiU Siid^ on conquer- ing the country, gave this district to his General Mir Beg. He, however, was opposed by Mini Khin of Wakh^n, one of the hazaraM of the BadakhshiLn kazdrajdt, the limit of which is called Durwazi Wakh^n by the Badakhshi, and S^righ Chopan by the Eishghari. In the time of Shdhibeg, Ababakar invaded Andij^ and anuexed Ush, and Mid and Uzkand. He subdued all Mogholist^n, dispersed the Moghol, and drove the Kirghiz to join Mansur at Jilish and Turf£n* And finally, on the death of Alaja, he annexed Aksu and Uch Turfin. He excavated all the ruins and mounds about K^hghar, Yirkand and Khutan in search of buried treasure. This work was carried on summer and winter by the labour of convict gangs of men and women in separate chains ; they were so punished for the most trivial offences with the worst criminals. Each gang consisted of from ten to twenty prisoners secured together by a chain running from one to the other through a coUar listened round the neck of each. They were ruled by merciless overseers who for a slight default in discipline were themselves consigned to the gang, and were fed on the scantiest fare. By their toil Ababakar accumulated vast ti'easures from these ruined cities ; for nothing escaped him, even the dudt being sifted for gems. In a vault in some ruins near Khutan — which is described as a most ancient city, and remarkable for the absence of the 'd(^a= magpie, which is common elsewhere in the country; and if per- chance one should appear it is counted an ill omen, and the people turn out and drive it away— were found twenty-seven ikum^j^r, each capable of holding a fully armed bowman, without his body touching its sides. Each lAum contained a copper aftdba =ewer, with an iron spout that projected to the level of its brim. Each aJUba was one and a half ^a^syard high, and when filled with water was as much as two men could lift. As found each was full of gold dust, and the space between it and the containing khim was packed with silver bdli^k, each the size of an ancient brick and depressed in the centre. Each bdlisA weighed five hundred mithcdl. (The mitkcM of the present day weighs sixty grains). In each jar was found a paper with a Turki inscription — *^ For the wedding of the son of Khumir Khit6n,'' but who or what she was nobody knows. All this wealth was deposited in Abibakar's treasury, and now fell into the possession of Sdid. Abibakar was frightfully cruel in his punishments. He used to slay and muti- late whole families for the offence of a single member, even if accused ten years after its commission. When his troops captured ShAh Begum, and Mihr Nigir Kh&nfm, and Muhammad Shih (the brother of my author), and other members of the family of his own father and mother, as they came from Kabul to Badakhshin, he brought them to K^hghar and treated them shamefully. He kept Muhammad Sliih amougst his eunuchs till fifteen years old, and then staked him to a wall of his chamber by an iron rod through the belly, and thus left him to die and rot. His own sister. Khan Sul- tanim, he shut up in a room and fed on nothing but raw spirits, and when tortured by thirst and hunger her ravings were quieted by a fresh dose poured down by force, till at last she died. Such are only two instances that bear mention of his treatment towards his own nephews and nieces, and sons and daughters. The whole country trembled at his foul and indescribable cruelties. When he invaded Andijin, he mas- sacred three thousand people of Jagrik, Mid, and Uzkand on the pretence tiiat they had plotted against his life. He cut off the feet of thousands of his own subjects, simply lest, msdcontent, they should go to other countries and conspire against him. Despite his unheard-of barbarities and merciless cruelties, Abibakar affected a pious devotion to the Faith, and pretended a rigid observance of the ShariaL He was always attended by priests and expounders of the law, to whom he used to appeal for confirmation of his judgments ; but if they dared disapprove, he straightwav pro- nounced them worthy of death, and in his clemency and respect for their profession spared their lives, but imposed tasks worse than death itself. ( 170 ) He made Y^rkand the capital of his kingdom, and greatly improved the city. T.R. He built its fortifications which enclosed two hundred man of land (that is laud capa- ble of being sown by that quantity of com^ which at fifteen pounds the man equals three thousand pounds), and had six gates, each protected by two bastions, and con- necting walls one hundred yards in advance, a novel arrangement, by which the approach was defended by archers on each side. Inside the city he laid out twelve parks, with handsome mansions, and a hundred houses in each. He brought canals into the city, and planted twelve thousand gardens in its suburbs. All these now fell into the hands of Siid, and were ravaged and plundered by his soldiery. After settling Y^rkand, Siid returned to Kdshghar, and there, in the winter of 921 H. = 1514-15 A.D., received a visit from Mansur who had come from his government of J^lish and Turfdn. In the first month of the following year S^id went by Uch TurfSn, where his brother, Ayman Khoja, was Governor, to Aksii which since its devastation by Ab^b/lkar on the death of Ahmad had remained in ruins, and at B^y met Mansur for the return of his visit. He now acknowledged him as his elder brother and independent ruler of J^lish and Turf^n, and giving Aksu to him returned to Y^rkand for the winter. In the following spring S^id moved to K^shghar, and there collected his forces to invade Andijdn and expel Sdyunjiik. He was joined by Ayman and Bibdjac with their small contingents, and on arrival at Ch^dir Kul mustered his troops. His brothers warned him that the army was unequal to the task undertaken, and proposed that they should change the plan of the expedition, and limit it to a raid in the hills. Consequently they spent a few weeks in the chase of wild horse and sheep, and the plunder of nomad camps, and then returned to the capital. After this S^id set out on an expedition against the Sdrigh Uighur twelve days' journey from Khutan, but on arrival at the latter place he was so prostrated from the effects of a hard bout of debauchery that he was obliged to forego the meritorious duty of converting them. He sent a force, however, to explore their country, and it returned after an absence of two months without having found any traces of the pagan enemy ; whilst himself in the interim was borne back to the capital in a stupid state of drunkenness. He was roused from this ignoble course by the plain admonition of the Uzbak master of M&war^nahar, and his warning against the unchecked hostilities of the border tribes ; and Sild, alarmed lest the vengeance of Shihibeg should fall upon himself, at once set out on an expedition to Isigh Kul to check the inroads of his Kirghiz there upon the lands of Turkistdn, Syr^m, and Andij^n. He dispersed their camps, and capturing their Chief, Muhammad Biy, carried him off prisoner to Yir- kand in 923 H. = 1516 A.D., and thus restored quiet on the border. During the reign of Sh^hibeg Khan, Badakhshan was divided between Khusro Shah on the west and Abdbakar on the east. Sdid on taking Kishghar had given his share of the country up to Sarfgh Chopan in fief to Mir Beg, one of his nobles ; but Mirzi Kh&n, the Governor of Zafar fort, expelled him. Consequently S^id marched against him, and settling the difficulty peaceably returned to Ydrkand. From this in the summer following he went to Aksu, which had recently (923 H.) been recovered from Mansfir by Ayman Khoja, who restored and resettled the place for himself. He now removed Ayman to Kdshghar, whence he went to Bdbur in India where he died in 938 H. = 1531 A.D., and installed Mansur in the Government; and he reigned there in peace for two years till 928 H. = 1521 A.D. In this year (926 H.) Mirzi Khan died, and his infant son, Sulem^n, was put on his throne in Badakshan. S^id meant to have gone against him, but a revolt of the Kirghiz pagans in Mogholist^n prevented him. He sent his son, Rashid, with the liberated Muhammad B^yto quell them, and himself followed to their support in the following year. He wintered at Kuchc^r, and being there seized with a fit of piety and remorse for his many sins returned to K^sh^rhar, and wished to abdicate in favour of his brother Aymdn. His priestly adviser, Tdjuddin, aided by the persuasive I - n. 31, — Opium Smokers, Oi ^ 32.— Andijani and Child by a Yarkund Woman. I • • w J / '■* ■ r ' / ( m ) T.K doqaence of Ehoja Muhammad YtSsuf just arrived from T^shkand^ however^ dis- suaded him from the purpose. Instead thereof he made him confess and repent his sins^ and promise to expiate them by serving God and the Prophet by the prosecution of a yearly ghazdt against the pagans and infidels on his borders. In the spring of 931 H. s= 1624 A.D.| S^id again went to the support of Bashid at Isigh Kul^ where he had his camp to control the Kirghiz. Whilst there he received intelligence of the death of Suyunjuk and disorder amongst the Uzbak. Consequently he at once invaded Andijin^ seized 13 zkand, the strongest fort in the country^ and razed it to the ground^ captured Ush and the capital, and annexing them to Kishghar^ returned to Mogholist^n. Here he established Rashid in the govern- ment against T&hir Khan and Abul K^sim, the Uzbak leaders whose cause had failed in Miwardnahar, and returned to his own capital. On the rise of the Manghit, how- ever, in succession to them, and their invasion of Mogholist^n, Bashid, unable to hold his own against them, returned to Kishghar. In the winter following this, Siid sent Rashid and Mirz£ Hydar (the author of Tdfikhi Rashidf) on a ghazdt against the kdfir of Bolor. This counlsy is bounded east by K^shghar and Y^rkand; north by BadakhshiLn; west by K&bul; and south by Kjishmir. It is altogether a mountain fastness, and has not a level farmkk of ground in a circuit of four months' journey. Its people have no religion, and their women do all the labour, field and domestic. The men do nothing but fight each other all day and every day, and only cease when their women interpose with food. They then enter their houses, and on the conclusion of the meal return to fight; and so it goes on from sunrise to sunset; and at night they always barricade their doors and keep watch. These people have few oxen, but lots of goats and sheep from whose wool they make all their clothing. There is little pasture in the country ; and every glen has its own peculiar language which is uninteUigible to the neighbours. Honey and fruits are in plenty. The pomegranates are especially good, and have sweet white grains like those of no other country. Rashid returned from this expedition, in which he does not appear to have effected much against the kafir^ by way of S^righ Chop£n in the summer of 934 H. = 1527 A.D. On the death of Mirz^ Kh&n, his infant son, Sulem^n, succeeded to the throne of Badakhshin. Bdbur had him brought to Kabul, and sent his own son, Humiytin, to hold the country. He governed it from 926 to 935 H. =s 1619 to 1528 A.D., when he was summoned to India. The Badakhshi now feared the Uzbak, and sought protection of S^id. He. left Rashid in the government of K^shghar, and set out for Badakhshin in 936 H. = 1529 A.D. On arrival at Zafar, however, he found the fort already occupied by Hind^l, the brother of Hum&ytin. It being mid-winter, and retreat impossible, S&id negotiated a stay of three months with Hinddl on the grounds that he had come to protect the place against Uzbak invasion, and with no thought of wresting it from K&bul. After a very hard time of it in deep snows, with a scarcity of provisions, S&id was glad to turn back to his capital with the first approach of spring. Bdbur on this recalled Hindil, and re-established Sulemin at Zafar. Following this in the winter of 937 H. s= 1530 A.D., Siiid resumed Aksu from Mansur, and appointed Rashid to its government with Mirz^ Hydar as his minister. Six months later he recalled the latter, and in Z^Rijjy the spring of 938 H. ss 1532 A.D., set out with him and an army of five thousand men on a ghazdt against Tibet The rivers of Tibet on the north-east all flow to the Kok Nor Kol in the sandy desert. It is three months' journey in circuit ; and from tl^ lake flows the great Kari Mor^n river of Ehiti. The Dolp£ tribe of Tibet trade between Khit& and Hind, and cany their mer- ehandize exclusively on sheep. They spend one winter in Khiti and the other in Hind. Three hundred faniilies of them live in under-ground burrows at Altunchi, A 15 ( 172 ) where they dig and sift gold daring only forty days of the year owing to the T.B. excessive cold. Other gold mines of Tibet are in Champa. Mirz& Hydar and Iskandar^ the son of Siid, with four thousand men led the advance^ and proceeding by the direct route arrived at Nubra in Sqfar 938 H. = 1532 A.D. From this they sent off parties in all directions to convert to IsUm^ or to slay the recusants. They took the fort of Maryolj which was held by two Chiefs called Lacca Choghd&n and Bas&nkol. The cold here was intense. From this Iskandar was hastily recalled owing to the alarming illness of his father from ^ff»» = '^ breath'' on the Dolp& road from Khutan. On arrival at Nubra^ however^ S&id recovered^ and with a thousand men turned off to winter at B£lti. Iskandar^ meanwhile^ rejoining Mirz& Hydar^ pushed on by the Zoji Pass, where he quickly routed its four hundred defenders, to winter in Kashmir. Bahr&m Toe, the Ruler of B^lti, submitted to Siid who at once took possession of the town, located his troops in its houses, killed the men, seized the women, and till spring waged a destructive guerilla all over the country to Maryol. During the same time Iskandar subjugat^ EL^hmir, and married tiie daughter of Muhammad Sh^h its King. In the spring both parties met in Maryol. From here S£id sent Iskandar and Mirz£ Hydar, with two thpusand men, to destroy the idol city of Aorsdng (or as it is colloquially pronounced Aoch^g or Uching), which was the eabla' or Jerusalem of the Khitdy, and himself set out on his return to Y^rkand by the S4cri Pass into Nubra. On rising from this to the highland of the Karikoram Pass, S£id was again taken ill with dam, and, though hurried along to get across the difficult parts as quickly as possible, died at a stage only four days short of the place where the dam is no longer felt. The spot, I may here note, is marked by the name Daulat Beg Uldi=^' The Lord of the State died.'' It is the stage directly to the south of the Kar&- koram Pass, and is 16,400 feet above the sea. S&id died at the end of 939 H., aged forty-six years, having reigned twenty. On the arrival of the corpse, Syad Muhammad Mirz&, who had repaired to the capital from his government at K jshghar on first intimation of the King's death, performed the funeral rites, and, with a strong party of nobles in support, assumed the government, pending the return of Iskandar. But Bashid at the same time coming from Aksd, seized Syad Muhammad on the first day of the new year 940H., and slew him over his father's grave where the unsuspecting minister had come to express the usual condolence. He then mounted the throne himself, and, sending off his agents to K^hghar, executed all the &mily of his victim, and confiscated his property. Iskandar and Mirzi Hydar, meanwhile, had penetrated twenty marches towards Aors&ng, and on the lit Sc^ar, having defeated the Champa l^betans at Burying, captured g^eat booty in cattle and sheep. They ravaged the country around for several months, and on the lit Muharram 940 H., the day on which Bashfd killed Syad Muhammad, were attacked in a narrow defile by Ordom and the Hindti army and defeated with considerable loss ; Hydar's brother, ' Abdulla, being amongst the slain. From Maryol this expedttionaiy force marched altogether two months towards Aors^ng. In one month they came to the forts of Nok and Labok on the shore of a lake forty farsakh in circuit. Here they lost nearly all their horses from the fatal effects of dam, and the army had to proceed on foot with great difficulty and loss to Tdmluc, whence is fourteen days' journey to Bang^la. At Timluc horses enough to mount ninety men were seized, ana the army then advanced four days' march to Askarof, whence is a journey of twenty days to Aorsing. From this they were forced to retire owing to the exhaustion and inefficiency of the troops. From Timluc to Maiyol is twenty stages. In two stages they came to Koko, and there levied a contribution of three thousand miihcil of gold from the people. ( 173 ) T.B. Whilst here mesBengers arrived from Bashid summoning Iskandar to Ydrkand, and informing Hydar of the execution of his uncle and all his family^ and prohibit- ing his return to the country. They consequently marched at once to Maryol^ and arrived at its capital^ Cai£ Shiya^ in twenty-five days^ and taking possession of the fort^ halted for stragglers to rejoin. The season was mid-winter^ and the loss in men and cattle from the intense cold was severe. In the early spring Iskandar with seven hundred men set out on a foraging expedition to replenish the exhausted supplies of the army. He plundered all the country of Bang Shigar^ and after an absence of two months returned to Maryol. By this time the messengers sent by Hydar with presents and congratulations to Bashid^ and an appeal to revise his decision of banishment for the sake of their early friendship and service together^ now came back with peremptory orders for the return of Iskandar with the troops^ but a strict prohibition against the return of Hydar^ or even his stay in Tibet. On this the army dispersed and took their way back to Ydrkand as best they could in small parties straggling all over the country. Iskandar and Hydar were soon left with only fifty adherents. And with these they set out in the ensuing winter to make their way to Badakshan by the route of T^hdumb^sh^ Jan^c, and Sanic, and Pamir. The party was reduced to twenty-^ seven men by sickness and death by the time they reached the Kardkoram^ which they crossed in Sumdul^Septemhev — October. Here Iskandar with four men parted from his companion and friend, and took the road to Y^rkand ; whilst Hydar with the remaining twenty-one, following an unknown track, wandered for three days over a desolate waste of mountains and snows, on which they shot several eutds=^ wild ox {bos gmnniens) of huge proportions for food, and finally arrived at Bishg^m, a populous little valley at seven days' journey from P£mir. Here the people (who, it would seem, were Musalm^ns) welcomed the wanderers with hospitality, fed and dad them, and forwarded them on to Badakhsh&n, where Hydar found shelter with the King, Sulem^n Shah, who was the son of his maternal aunt. Here he was soon after joined by his family from Ydrkand, and by Iskandar, who was at the same time expelled the country by Bashid. In the aotumn they all set out together by way of Kabul to join Kamrin, the son of B£bur, at L^^hore. From this Hydar proceeded to the Court of Hum^yiin, and was by him equipped and sent to conquer and govern Kashmir. He entered the country over the passes on the 22nd Rajab 948 H.=1541 A.D., and it was in its capital that he wrote the Tarikhi Rashidd itom, which these details are derived. Sdid, entitled Sult£n Sdid Khan Gh£zi, was considered a generous, just, and mild prince, and pious during his later years as a disciple of Elhoja Khiwind MahmtSd of the Han£fi sect. His son and successor, Bashid, was the child of a slave girl who, when seven months pregnant with him by S^id, was carried off prisoner by the Uzbak when they invaded Andij£n. Sdid recovered her and the infant when he returned to the country by the aid of B^bur, who was his uncle's son. At this time Mirz£ Hydar's sister, Habiba Sultdn Kh£nim, arrived in Andij^n from Samarcand, and Bashid aged three years was in 915 H.=1509 A.D. made over to her to be educated. At the age of thirteen years Bashid accompanied his father in the expedition against Mogholist&n. He was on this occasion taken prisoner at Akhsf by Jinfbeg, but was recovered on his expulsion from Farghina. He was subsequently sent to govern in Mogbolistin with Mirz& Hydar as his Wazir, but returned to Kdshghar on the invasion of that region by the Kazzik and Uzbak. At eighteen years of age he was sent with Hydar on a ghazdt against the pagans of Bolor in 984 H.=1527 A.D., and on his return thence was sent to the government of AkstS. After six months' stay with him there Mirza Hydar joined S&id's expedition into Tibet as Wazir to his son Iskandar. On accession to the throne Bashid Sultan allied with the Shaib^n Khans, and killed and banished all his father's faithful adherents. Mansur twice attacked him to recover Aksti, but was each time repulsed with loss. ( 174 ) He banished all his brothers and uncles, and his father's wives, and beggared the T.R. whole family. He allied with the Uzbak, and gave his sisters in marriage to their nobles. During his reign (of thirty-three years) he annexed Andij&n on the one side, and Turfan on the other. In his time the Uzbak gained domination over the Moghol, who nvere in two great divisions called Moghol and Chaght^y. The Moghol are the same as the Jattah and Kirghiz, and they number thirty thousand families in Turfin and Kdshghar ; they are mostlj pagans, and the meanest of mankind. They eall the Chi^ht^y by way of derision Car^diniis. According to the Tarikhi KbAnin Chaght^ya (a book I have not had an oppor- T.K.C. tunity of examining), Bashid left two sons, Abdul Karim and Muhammad Khan, each of whom succeeded to a divided government in turn. In the reign of the latter the Kirghiz invaded the countiy, and the dynasty of Chaght^y Khans collapsed 980 H.=1572 AD. by the dismemberment of the country between rival representa- tives of the family ; having endured two hundred and twelve years under varying fortunes since its first establishment 761 H.=1360 A.D. by Toghluc Tymiir. During the two centuries of rule under the Chaght&y Khans, IsUm in Mogho- P. listan recovered the check it had sufEered under the invasion by Changiz, and the government of his immediate successors. And with the influx of Muhammadan divines during the reigns of the first rulers of that dynasty, soon acquired a more fanatic influence amongst the people than it had ever before exhibited. This was due to the proselitizing zeal and activity of the MusalmiHn merchant priests who traversed the country in all directions, and spread their doctrine more by example and persuasive devices than by force. The graves of the early champions of the Faith, who fell martyrs to the cause of its propagation in this region, were everywhere diligently sought out, their occupants canonized as saints, and their tombs converted into sacred shrines endowed with all sorts of beneficent virtues. Rich grants of land were apportioned by successive Khans for the support of their establishments, whose presiding elders in return dis- pensed, in the name of their patron saint, endless favors and bounties to an illiterate and superstitious peasantry — by means of magic charms for the cure of disease, by professed miraculous aversions of calamity, and by promised attainment of desires. By methods such as these the priesthood gradually acquired an overwhelming influ- ence over the minds of the people, and soon exerted it to control their domestic life, and finally to usurp the direction of their political conduct and relations. In the reign of Rashid Sultan, the great saint and divine of the age, the cele- brated MauUni Syad Khoja K^s^ni, more commonly known as the Makhdumi Azam='^The Great Master,^' the metropolitan of Samarcand, visited Kishghar. He was received with the most profound reverence and devotion by the citizens, and was granted rich estates by the Khan. Whilst here he married a lady of the place, Bibi Chiya, and she bore him a son, the Khoja Ish&c. Some of the Makhdum^s sons settled at K^shghar, and by virtue of their exalted parentage, which they traced up to the Prophet, enjoyed a reverential deference from all classes, and were with it accorded* by the rulers a leading part in the councils of the government. This liberty they soon turned to the advancement of their personal interests, and, consequently, jealousy and rivalry divided the brother- hood ; and two great factions, which exist to the present day, were formed, each supported by its own adherents and partizans amongst the people. The party siding with the Imdmi Kaldn, Khoja Muhummad Amin (the eldest son of the Makhdiim by a daughter of the Syad Yusuf of K^n) whose seat was at Artoeh, was styled Aktaghluc = " White mountaineer,'' from the Aktagh or ^' white mountains '' to the north, to which they looked for extraneous support from the Kirghiz there. The party of the younger son, Khoja Ish^, was called Karaiaghluc = " Black mountaineer,'' from the Karat&gh or *^ black mountains" to the west of his seat at Kh^naric, to whose Kirghiz they looked for aid. ( 175 ) P. This introdttction of the Kirghiz into the internal politics of Kashghar soon ph)dtic6d a confused state of anarchy amongst the several Chiefs ruling the country^ and their ambitious rivals amongst the priesthood — between the Khan's^ successors of Rashid on the one hand, and the Khoja^s, descendants of Makhdumi Azam on the other. , I have not met with any connected account of the events of this period. It appears, however, that in the time of Khoja Muhammad Yusuf, the son and successof of Khoja Muhammad Amin at Artosh, the whole country was split up into independ- ent Chiefships amongst the sons of Rashid. Thus Abdulla held Khutan, Muham- mad Khan ruled at Y^rkand, IsmAll at Kashghar, Khud^banda at Aksu, Abdurrashid at Kiicha, and at Turf^n, and they were all inextricably embroiled in mutual jealousies and hostilities, till Khoja Hidiyatnlla, the son of Khoja Yusuf, succeeded, by the aid of the Zunghiri, in acquiring the supreme control of the government. Y.C. It was during this period of divided authority that Benedict Goes, in Novem- ber 1608 A.D., arrived at Yirkand, where he found Muhammad Khin was the ruler. Goes owed his favourable reception here, and safe passage through the country to a purely fortuitous circumstance. On his way up from Lahore he was delayed several months at Kabul, and finally set out thence in the caravan of H^ji Kh^nim, the sister of the Kashghar ruler, to whom he was able to render a service by the loan of six hundred pieces of gold, which the lady, returning from the pilgrimage to Mecca with an empty purse and no credit, was unable to raise amongst the Kabid merchsnts to meet her pressing requirements and needs. On arrival at Yirkand, after a periloua and adventuresome journey through the robber-haunted passes of Badakhsh^n and Wakhin, the lady repaid her debt in precious jade from Khutan of which city her son was the Governor, and, in requital of his goodness, befriended the stranger and pro- cured for him a fnendly reception, and the protection of both her brother and son* Goes stayed here some months under the much needed hospitality and protection of Muhammad Khin, who ultimately forwarded the Christian Missionary on his journey by Jilish and Turfiin to the Chinese frontier where he died. In connection with the religious ferment in the country at the time of this Christian Missionary's visit, it is interesting to note that Muhammad Khan bravely took the friar's part in his adherence to the truth and merits of his own saving faith, and listened to his theo- logical arguments in a spirit of toleration, and with a liberality of mind not to have been expected amongst such a fanatic crew. Indeed, he seems to have acted exception- ally, and more than once had to interpose his protection to shield his guest from the blood thirsty fanaticsm and bigotted intolerance of his subjects. T.H. In the struggle for ascendancy between the Akttf ghliic and KvffiUghlac factions, the leader of the former, MuIU F^zil of Artosh,in 1031 H.r=:1618 A.D., called to his aid the Khoja Kalkn of Khnjand, the son of Khoja Muhammad S^duddin of Coba in the ancient country of Kaikobid and Afrasyab. He came with a force of a thousand men, and was established at Kiahghar ; but the sons of Khudibanda from Aksti at once besieged the city with the aid of the Yirkand troops and their Kirghis and Kapchik levies. They harassed the suburbs for six months till at length the Khoja, raising a force amongst the citizens, made a sortie and drove off the besiegera with severe loss. M.y. The Aktighluc party now took the lead, and ultimately in the person of Khoja Hidiyatulla aspired to the direct control of the government. On this Ismail, the Buler of K&hghar, drove him from the city to Kashmir. He repaired from tli^ to the DaKy Lamma, who sent him with a recommendation for aid to the Ghaldan of Z^nghir. That Chief, however, took the opportunity to annex the country, and, establishing the Khoja as his own governor at Y^rkand as the capital, exiled th« family of Ismiil to Ghuljd, the capital of his own government. Hid^yatalla, however, though supported by KalmiUa: authority, had a troubled rule owing to the opposition and intrigues of the rival faction. T.H/ The following particulare r^»arding this remarkable character, the founder of the Khoja power in the country of which he is now venerated as the patron saint, a 16 ( 176 ) are gathered from the Tazkira Hiddyat, written bj Mir Kykludddin of Y^rkand shortly T.H. after the Khoj^'s death : — Khoja Hid^yatulla^ usually called Hazrat Af^k = '^ Most High Presence/^ was the SOD of Khoja Muhammad Yiisuf^ the son of Khoja Muhammad Amin^ the son of Hazrat Makhdumi Azam. ^He held entire dominion, spiritual and temporal, over the Moghol States of Kdshghar, Y&rkand, Khutan, Aksu, Kuehd, and Turfi^D, and had many disciples in Khitd, Bulghir, IJrus, and Hindustan. He held a fifth part of Mogholist^n in jdgir = demesne, and received tithes from his disciples in foreign lands ; from Kashmir and Badaksh^n, and the Tung^ni in Khit^ notably. Amongst the people of K^shghar he was held as a Prophet second only to Muhammad, and in his miraculous powers of healing the sick and restoring the dead he was reckoned the equal of Hazrat ls£ s *' Lord Jesus/' His bearing exercised a marvellous effect upon the people, and his appearance amongst them produced the most extraordinary manifestations of fascination. Some wept with jot*, some sang with delight, others danced and leaped and whirled around, and others again fell senseless to the ground, whilst all were irresistably attracted to him by an ecstatic devotion of spiritual love. His miracles are said to be countless ; yet in his early career scoffers and unbelievers were not wanting. Abdurrashid, the Ruler of Y£rkand, was his enemy, and appointed a partizan, one MulU Abdulla, to the oflSce of Ci[zi in the ciiy. He took every opportunity to destroy the Sainf s growing influence, and in his Court of Justice used to denounce Af£k as a hypocrite and rogue who, in the garb of a darvesA, took the property of the people to keep his retinue of slave boys in gilded crowns, and to deck his concubines innumerable in silks and brocades. The speech of the bold tong^ed Cazi was reported to AtSk, but he merely remarked with meek resignation that God would in due time visit him with due reward. Shortly after this the railer was present at an entertainment given by the object of his vituperation, and was choked by a bone sticking in his throat. Uis friends fell at the Saint's feet, and offering all his wealth, and the sinner's repentance, implored him to save the man's life. Afik bid his neighbour hit the Cdzi a blow on the throat, and as he did so the bone was ejected to the dying man's relief. Of the company some laughed, some wept, and others fainted, but the scoffing Cizi recovered, and through very shame retired into private life at Aksii. From this he afterwards returned as a partizan and favored servant of the Saint's son and successor. Mirzi Sh£h Mahmdd, a Jaras noble of Y&rkand, was another prominent scoffer. He was a debauchee and opium-smoker, and reviled the sanctity of Af^k, saying ^' were he really a man of God he would have cured me of my evil ways." His brother, Qhizi Beg, was an equally infidel railer. But both very soon met a just retribution. The one died from an overdose of his favorite drug, and the other of a severe colic whilst out hunting even before they could carry him home. It was by such miracles as these that Amk's sanctity was proved and established. During his reign Af^k warred twelve years with the Ki^hiz and Kalmyk before he acquired the sole sovereignty. Attended by MulU Alim of Y^rkand he accompanied Yolbto Khan on his fatal campaign against Khiti, and gained many disciples amongst the Tungdni there. In his time Muhammad Amfn Kh£n, Ruler of Y^rkand, went against his brother, Khud^banda, at Aksu. He fell sick on the way, and was brought back in a jirghdl = '' horse litter," but died before reaching his home. His friends at once took the body to Af ^, and the Khin's mother. Begum P&dsh^h, falling at the Sainf s feet, presented twenty thousand tanga = four thousand rupees in cash, and promis- ing ten thousand more implored his intercession to restore her son to life. Aiik was at breakfast at the time, and taking a spoonful of gruel from his bowl applied it to the mouth of the defunct. A perspiration presently broke out over the boily, the limbs began to move, and on the third day the dead man was riding about as usual. It was such miracles as this that gained for Hazrat Afik the reputation of a second Hazrat lai. ( 177 ) T.H. EhiMMbaada now raised an anny of Kirghiz and Kalmiik to avenge this attack npon Y^rkand. Muhammad Amin at once appealed to Af^k for protection^ and the Saint thus disclosed to the ruler of the Stale his own ambition : " Hold I Khan I Restrain your desires. This country of Mogholistdn is the garden of the Khojas. I entrust it to your care. Do no violence> nor oppression. Be the friend of God's friends. Withhold your tongue from the slander of my people^ and be the enemy of my enemies. If you fail in these duties^ eternal pains and tortures are your lot, for the wrath of the Saints is a reflexion of the wrath of God. Khudabanda is your vassal. He now draws his sword ? Go you against him. The spirit of the Saints upholds your arms. Victory and triumph are yours. My son from K^shghar, Khoja Muhammad Yahya, goes with you.'' Accordingly ^ey set out together with a large army against Aksu. The fort was taken, Khudabanda was seized and taken before Muhammad Amin, who at once ^lew him. The victory was claimed by the Khoja as the result of Afik's miraculous aid ; and on the return of the victorious army, he presented the deserving of the soldiers before his &ther for reward. Amongst the foremost of these was Khudi- birdi Bi, Chongbaghish Kirghiz, who was the first to assault and force the gate of the castle. The Saint cast a benign glance on the hero, and inquired " What desirest thou ? Oh Mir I" The Kirghiz saluting replied " Tacs^ PddsAdAim / = Sire I My King I By your high favour I have no lack of worldly wealth. I have herds of horses, and strings of camels, and droves of oxen. My flocks of goats and sheep are countless, and there is no limit to the number of my slaves and wenches ; but I have no son." " How many wives have you?" asked the Saint. " Tacsir I I have two wives" replied the Mir. kUk took two apples from a tray set before him, and handing them to the Kirghiz Bi, said ^'Give this to the one wife, and this to the other wife." And so he dismissed him. The hero returned home and did as he was bid. Each wife conceived, and in due course each gave birth to a son. This miracle is notorious in all the Kashghar and Ydrkand territory. FoUowing this in 1043 H.= 1630 A.D., Muhammad Amin Kh^n, alarmed at the rapid rise of Afik and jealous of his power, declared war against him, and dosing the roads to Hindustan and Badakhshin to prevent his escape, vowed to exter- minate the whole Khoja race. On this Af£k summoned the aid of Yahya, called also Khan Khoja, as the eldest of his sons ; and on his arrival from K^.shghar with a numerous army, the troops of the Kh&n deserted to the Khoja ; and thus reduced to helplessness Muhammad Amin forgot his boasts and threats, and sought safety by flight. He was pursued, captured, and executed beyond the Y^rkand river. Af^k after this gained supreme control of the government. In his later years he resigned the reins of authority to Yahya, who for fifteen years had been the custodian of the family sepulchre at Artosh and the superior of its attached monas- tery, and retired to spend his declining years in the society of his disciples over whom his magic influence produced a spell of servile devotion. Af£k converted nearly a hundred thousand people to IsUm, not reckoning the ladies of the nobility and gentry amongst whom he exercised an influence and control of a mysterious and imperious nature. He died suddenly at Ydrkand in the midst of a theological discussion with his disciples in the beginning of Rajab 1105 H.=: 1693 A. D., and was buried in the vault of his father at Altun Artosh. His funeral was attended by ten thousand relatives, disciples, and retainers. His grave is now the holiest shrine in the country, and is called Mazd/r fyzulanwdr AstAnae Hazrat Eshdn Ali9hdn Hazrat 4/^^=^' The shrine bounteous in lights, the threshold of His Eminent Presence, the Most High Presence." During the life of Af^k, the mausoleum and monastery built over the grave of his father, were destroyed and burned by the Kirghiz and Kazz^k invaders. Yahya rebuilt them, and, adding a college and alms-houses, much enlarged the area of the shrine. And he^gave the revenues of Fyzab^d, Daulatbagh, and the Arwit canal in bequest for their maintenance. These buildings were completed only shortly ( 178 ) before the death of Afllk who, on being informed that all was ready for him to open T.H. and bless the institution^ foretold his speedy arrival there for his last resting place. On the death of Afik, the saccession to the government was immediately con* tested by his sons. Yahya^ who had for some years conducted the government over seventeen cities of MoghoUstin^ was killed within seven months^ at the end of Safar 1106 H.^ through the intrigpies of Kh&nim Pddshih, the widow of AfiUr. She was a daughter of Bashfd, and a grand-daughter of Sultdn S^id^ and now used her influence with the nobles and ohie& in favour of her own son, Mahdi, at that time aged sixteen years. This excited the jealousy of the darvesA, and being insti- fated by other members of the family, they soon after attacked her palace, and illing her, set it on fire. In the midst of this confusion Acbish, a brother of Yahya, came from Turf&n and seizing Y^rkand, drove the youthful sons of Afik, namely, Khoja Husen (called Baghra Khan by his father) aged nine years, and Calich Burhinuddin, aged five years, and other members of the family to Hindustan. Sixteen years later Husen returned from his exile, and became the Governor of Y&rkand and KiLshghar. Acbdsh on gaining possession of the city quarrelled with his Kirghiz and Kapch^k allies, and, after some desultory warfare, was seized and executed at Y^ngi Hisa&r by Arzu Muhammad, the Kirghiz leader; who then fought to oust his rival comrade Cam^t Bi, the Kapch^k Chief ; and in the end they destroyed each other. Aiik, in his first attempt to seize the government of the country, was unsuc- M.V. oessful, and was driven from K^hghar by its Ruler, Ism&il Khan, to take refuge in Kashmir. From this he repaired to the DaUy Lamma who sent him with a recom- mendation for aid to the Ohaldan=Kh£n, or Chief of the Olot Kalmiik, or Elenth of Ziinghir. The Ghaldan, however, took the opportunity to seize the country for himself, and in 1678 A.I). appointed Af^k his Oovemor at Yirkand as the capital, with a large staff of Kalmyk officials supported by garrisons in the different towns. At the same time he carried off Ismail and his family into exile at Ghulja, his own capital. Af^k distributed the several offices of government and provincial charges amongst his Akt^ghluc partizans, in subordination to the Zunghiiri Chiefs who, however, themselves took no part in the internal administration of the government. They were content merely to hold the country and realize the monthly tribute of four hundred tiiousand tanffa=seighty thousand rupees. Anarchy and hostility, however, continued for several years between the two factions, till the Karati^hltic being defeated finally emigrated to Kashmir. AHk now to allay suspicion resigned the government to his brother, Ism&il Muhanmiad, the Governor of T7sh TurMn, and set him to attack the Zungh^H. He fell upon the Kalmyk, and, plundmng their camps, seized an immense number of captives and great booty in cattle. He then feared the vengeance of the Ghaldan, and fled to the mountains, where he was killed by his own guides. On this Afdk resumed the government. On the assassination of Yahya after the death of ASSk, his brother from Turf&n seized Yirkand as already mentioned. To maintain himself there against his opponents, Acbdsh called to his aid from Khujand one Khoja Dinyil of the Kardt^gh* Idc faction. On this the people of Kishghar brought in Khoja Ahmad, Akt^hltSc, and set him up as ruler, uid war then followed between the rivals. The Akt^ghKc, with their Kirghiz partizans, beseiged Ydrkand to seize Dinjil^ but were repulsed by the Kirghiz under their leader H&him Khan in the interest of the Kar^tighltic. His success, however, was short lived, for the Khoja intrigues presently drove him to retire to his steppes. Diny^l now gained over tibe Kalmyk, who joined him at Yirkand to avenge the invasion from Kishghar against which they marched together. The city surrendered after a few skirmishes, and the Kalmilk ehief, appointing as governor a citizen chosen by the 'people, took both Ahmad and D&ayi\ prisoners to Ila or Ghdlja, and thus restored quiet to the country. ( 179 ) M.V. In 1720 A.D. Zaban Raptan (Arabd^n Khan of the Zunghiri?) restored Dinyil to the government of Alty Shahr=8ix cities^ but appointed his own Governors in each of them, and fixed the revenue at a hundred thousand ^a;z^a= twenty thousand rupees, that of Af^k being a thousand tanga^two hundred rupees jDm this he advanced against Elhoja Chag^n; who held Y^rkand; and in the names of the Boghdo Khan and Amursana demanded his surrender to Chinese protection. Chag^n sent a reply of defiance; and with the cry of " Islim^' raised the populace for a ghazd. Burhinuddin consequently closely besieged the city; and finally, after some skirmish- ing in which Iniyat; the son of Chagdu; was killed, took it through the treachery of Ohdzi Beg; who on a pretence of &mine led Chag£n to make a sortie with all his force to raise the siege. In the sally Oh^zi Beg took flight; and threw the defenders into oonfosioU; and the besiegers rallying drove them into the city. During the night Chagin fled with his famOy; and next day Gh£z( Beg surrendered the ciiy to Burhiinuddin. Chagin was pursued and overtaken at the Zara&hin river; where Arka; a son of Ytisuf; was killed in the conflict; whilst Nazar with two attendants escaped to India. The rest were taken back to Yarkand; and all executed. And so the Akt^hldc replaced the Kar^t^hltic in the government of the country. In 1758 A.D.; Burhinuddfn aided by his brother; Khan Khoja; rebelled; and; consequently; in the following year a Chinese army under the Governor of Ua invaded the country; and after a succession of contests drove the rebel brothers to seek refuge in Badakhsh^n. Here the King, Sultan 'Shikh; killed them both; and sent their heads to the Chinese General, and Kibhghar was annexed as an integral part of the Chinese Empire under the Provin- cial Governor of Ha. In this war four of the sons of Af£k were killed in fight, and two were taken prisoners to Pekin for execution there. Only one son of Borhinuddin escaped. His name was Khoja Si^at K\\, commonly called Sarimsak. The Chinese to consolidate their authority in this western province of their Empire in 1764 A.D. built Hoi Yuan Chen on the River Ha; and re-eetUed Zdng- haria; which had been depopulated by the massacre of half a million people; by Chinese emigrants and exiles from Kansub; and with SibO; SoloU; and Daur colonistS; ( 181 ) M.y. and a ManchtS garrison of soldiers of the Oreen Dragon standard. In the Ila district seven thousand Mnsaknin families were redaced to serfdom as tillers of the soil, whilst the remnant of the Zungh^ri were granted roaming tracts in their former locale. The government was confided to a Tzian Tziun or Jdn^-Junff s ''Vioeroy/' with three Lieutenants at Ila, Tdrbaghitai, and K^shghar; but the details of local government were left to be administered as before bj Musalm^n officers. Chinese garrisons, however, wete located in the principal cities, outposts were established on the frontiers, and poet stages built on all the main routes for quick communication. And thus the Chinese secured their conquest. This success of the Chinese arms alarmed the IsUm polity all over Central Asia, though the border Chiefs immediately under their influence professed vassalage to the Chinese Emperor. Ablai of the Middle Horde in 1766 A.D. submitted to the Boghdo Khin, and was g^nted the title of Prince. Mtir 'Ali of the Little Horde in token of submission sent envoys to Pekin. Whilst Adania or EnUlni Bi, the Khan of Khocand in 1758 A.D., and then his successor, Nirbota Bi, recognized the protectorate of China. But the rest of Central Asia was panic-struck by the estab- lishment of the Chinese rule on their very frontier. In 1762 A.D. Chinese mandarins with an escort of a hundred and thirty men went to Ablai, and demanded horses and supplies for an army to invade Turkist^n and Samarcand in the spring. On this Erd&ni Bi of Tishkand, and Fazl Bi of Khujand, and the independent Kirghiz Chiefs sent envoys to seek aid from ShiLh Ahmad — ^the Durrani who, after the death of Nadir, had raised Afghanistan into an independent kingdom, and ihe Afghans to l^e proud position of the most powerful nation of the Ea^. Ahmad had, ten years before, conquered all the country on the left bank of the Oxus from Chi^rjiSe up to its bead waters in Badakhshin, and now in 1763 A.D., in answer to the call for IsUmite aid, he sent a force of A%h£ns to protect the frontier between T^hkand and Khokand. And at the same time he sent an embassy direct to Pekin to demand the restitution of the Muhammadan States of Eastern Turkistin. Meanwhile in 1765 A.D. the people of T7sh Tur£in, forestalling the Musalmitn aid reckoned on, rose in revolt, but the rebellion was at once quelled by a massacre of the citizens and the complete destruction of the town. The Afghan deputation was not well received at the Chinese capital, and the Durr&nf sovereign was at the time too much engaged against the Sikhs to turn his attention in this direction. And the Chinese on ^eir side were deterred from further conquest in the helpless States of Central Asia to the west by the presence of an Afghan army of fifteen thousand men in Badakhshiin ; sent there to ravage the country and execute the King, Sultan Sh^h, in revenge for his murder of l£e two refugee Khojas in 1760 A.D. They brought under subjection, however, the Kirghiz on the north-west, and yearly sent a force from EL^hghar and Turbaghatai, accom- panied by Chinese traders for barter, to collect the annual revenue of one per cent, of horses and cattle and one per mille of ^sheep, in return for the privilege of pasturing on the steppe between Lake Balkash and the AULt&gh. After the revolt of 0sh Turfin, the Chinese rule was undisturbed till 1816 A.D., when Zi'iuddin Akhnnd, Kahit^ghldc of T^hmalik or Tdshbaligh s= '' stone town/' to the west of K^shghar, rebelled and with a party of Kirghiz raided the Chinese outposts. He was soon captured and ececuted, but his son, Ashraf Beg, carried on the war till he shared the same fate. His young brother, however, was sent to Pekin, where he was executed on attaining full age. This quelled the Karit&ghldo for a time, and the government went on without any serious outbreak till 1825 A.D., when the appearance of the Russians on the Bogd camp grounds and the seven rivers led to a decline of the Chinese prestige, which was presently confirmed by the revolt of the Khoja Jahitngir. Under the Chinese rule certain trading privileges were accorded to the city of AkstS and those to the west of it, which were not granted to KtSchi and the other cities to the east ; whilst no Musalmin trader was allowed to go northward by the ( 182 ) Mdz^rt Pass. The cities to the westward of Aksii had always from their position M.V. shared a community of interests with Khokand or Andij£n^ anciently called Farghana (which daring the time of the Moghol Khans was included in the government of Kishghar^ as it was at an earlier period under the rule of the Bughra Khan family when Uzkand was the capital of one of their Princes)^ and the adjoining States of Miwar&nahar^ and in them the Khoja influence had always been greatest. But the eastern cities on the other hand from Kuchl to Kh^mil had hardly felt this influence^ and were from their vicinity and common interests more in unison with the Chinese. This natural tendency the Chinese authorities encouraged by a conciliating rule^ and the grant of princely titles^ whilst the £mperor himself^ to strengthen the bonds of attachment^ married a Khimil Princess. The trading privileges enjoyed by the western towns enabled their people to maintain constant communication with their co-religionists to the west of the passes, and afEorded them opportunities of intriguing with tiie Musalm^ns there for the res* toration of the Khoja rule, and the hatching of all sorts of sedition against the established government. To check the troubles and disquiet arising from tins source, the Chinese in 1813 A.D. subsidized the Khan of Khokand with two hundred jfdmd = £3^660 yearly to control the hostility of the Khojas, who since their conquest of the country had emigrated to his territory. Amongst these was Sarimsak, the last descendant of the Afic family. After many years of wandering in Central Asia he settled in his old age at Khokand, to be near Kilshghar, whence he derived his revenues. He was here joined by many Kar£- t$ghlnc discontents from the Chinese side of the border, who complained of the oppression of the foreign rulers, the vioktion of their wives and daughters by the infidel, and the suppression of their religious supremacy. These grievances, coupled with the fate of the two murdered Khojas, excited universal sympathy amongst Musalmins, and to fan it, emissaries set out from Kdshghar in 1820 A.D., and spread themselves over Central Asia to enlist the aid of IsULm in a gAazd against the kdfir invaders. As a first consequence Mur^d Beg, the Ruler of Kunduz, on the pretence of avenging the murder of the Khoja brothers on behalE of his relative, Sarimsak, con- quered Badakshin, and deported its people to sicken and die in the swamps of his own country. And as a second Jah^ngir Khoja invaded Kishghar. Sarimsak had three sons, Yusuf Khoja, who lived at Bukhdr^, Bahadddin, and Jahdngir who was bom in 1783 A. D. On the death of 0mar Khan of Khokand in 18? 2 A. D., Jah^ngir fled from the city to the Kard Kirghiz, and plotted against EL^shghar, where the devotion of the people to the Khoja interest and the weakness of the Chinese rule were well known to him. His hostility now was the commence- ment of those troubles which have ever since distracted the country till its conquest by the present Ruler, Amir Muhammad Y^kub Khan, At&lik Gh^zi. Jah^ngir first enlisted the aid of Sur^nchi Beg, Chongbaghish Kiighiz, who merely plundered the Kitshghar suburbs and was driven back. On this failure the Khoja went to the S^yak Kirghiz of Bolor, and securing the adhesion of their Chiefs, Atantai and Tailak, made the summer resort of the Kirghiz camps on the upper course of the Narin river his head-quarters. Here he assumed the character of a saint and miracle worker, and made many excursions against the enemy ; but without much success, till at last in 1825 A.D. a small party of Chinese who had pursued his raiders to the Nirin, and plundered the country up to Fort Kurtka, were surprized in a narrow defile on their return journey and slaughtered almost to a man. This victory was at once noised in Khokand, and emissaries were sent to raise the Uzbak, KazziLk, and Beirut Kirghiz, many of whom with Andijani and Badakhshi adventurers flocked to the green banner of Jahinghir. In the following spring the Khoja marched against Kishghar with a considerable force under the command of 'Isa Dddkkwdhy lent to him as General by Muhammad Ali Khan of Khokand, and camped at Besbkirim in its northern suburbs. The Chinese came out to attack, but were quickly routed and driven back to their citadel, whilst Jah^ngir entering the city amidst the acclamations of the people ( 188 ) M.y. established himself in the palace with the title of Syad Jah^ngir Sultan^ and at onoe organized his government on the Khokand models substituting the Musalm^n turban for the Chinese cap, balls, and feathers. He allowed most of the Begs to retain their posts, but appoint^ Andij^n partizans to the principal offices, and exe- cuted Muhammad Siid of EMmil, the ^a«y= Governor on the part of the Chinese^ for his opposition. On the fall of Kdshghar, the people of Yangi Hissar, Yirkand, and Khutan rose gimultaneouslj, and massacring the Chinese everywhere, razed their forts and joined the service of the Khoja. In June Muhammad jQi Khan, jealous of the Khoja's success, himself appeared at Eishghar with fifteen thousand men to join in the ghaziy but he was coldlj received bj Jah&ngir, who looked upon him as a dangerous rival. The Khan, however, set vigorously to work to take the Chinese fort of Gulb^gh, a few hundred yards to the west of the ciiy, in which the garrison still held out ; but his efforts proving ineffectual, and having lost a thousand men under its walls in twelve days, his ardour cooled as rapidly as it had glowed, and he returned to his principality there to make amends for the disappointment in adding a new province to his dominions by stamping the envied title of Ghazi on his coinage. Jahiingir meantime continued the siege of the Oulb^gh, and it fell to him on the seventeenth day. The Chinese Governor and principal officers committed suicide, whilst their troops fleeing in all directions were captured and massacred to the number of eight thousand men. Only four hundred of the captives were spared on their professing IsMm, and they were at once distributed over Mdwarinahar as an induce- ment to the Faithful to rally round Jahdngir. . Muhammad ^ Khan now uneasy at the growing success of the Khoja, dis- couraged volunteers and plotted with Isa Dddkhwak to raise a mutiny amongst his troops. The General^s plans, however, were timely discovered, and he was reduced &'om his post of Mingbdshi, and the djusorder quelled. Many other plots against Jahilngir now came to light, but he was generally popular and had the support of the Musalmilns everywhere. P. Meanwhile the Chinese Viceroy at Ha had been active in his preparations to recover the revolted cities, and despatched an immense force of Tung^ni, Khit^y, and K^lmdk against the rebels. The Chinese army arrived at Aksu in January (six months after the fall of Oshghar), under the command of a Jing Jung Tdn, with a Jitng Jung and several Amban. From this in the early spring a force of twelve thousand men was sent by way of Ciy Yoli to Khutan, and another of seven thousand men to Yfokand, whilst the main army of eighty thousand men assem- bling at Mar£lbdsh( set out thence against K^hghar. Jahitngir in the meantime had concentrated his Khutan and Ydrkand levies at the capital, and on the approach of the Chinese sent out an army of fifty thousand men to oppose them. The hostile armies met at Yangabad, and according to custom each put forward a champion for single combat. That of the Chinese was a giant Kalmyk archer &ntaBtically dressed Uke a devil dragon ; whilst the champion on the side of Jah^ngir was a noted Khokandi warrior equaJly versed in sword and rifle practice and clad in gaudy silks and chain armour. The two advanced to the contest on the open plain backed by their respective supporters. But whilst the Khokandi was adjusting his rifle the t^alTn^lr shot an arrow through his chest and out between the shoulders, and his adversary fell dead on the spot. A skirmish followed between the supporting parties, but the El&shghar army, disheartened by the untoward commencement of the contest, soon broke and fled in disorder. They were puAued with great slaughter and loss in captives as far as Caz&n Eul, where the Chinese army camped for the night. Next day they advanced in three great divisions by the Yangi Hissar road on the south, Daulatbagh on the east, and Sarman on the west, and invested the city on three sides. During the night Jahangir with seven followers fled by the Chacm&c Pass to the Karitakka mountain, where he was stopped by the snow, and •a 18 ( 184 ) Ms troops^ fixkding tiiemselveB thtm deserted^ next dajr dispersed and ioek tke poftd P. to Andijin. They were puraned and 4nrifig the recent tronbles^ had been itaiding hie boarder. He dispersed the Si&ydc camps on the Upper N&rf n, and took prisoners their chiefs Atantai and Tailac ; wliilst the Koshbegi of TUshkand at the same time pnrmied Ike Bogha tribes and penetrated beyond Ila to the military post of Sibo. These suocesses of the Khocand Kh&n altered tke J^icy of the Chinese Oover^^ nor^ who now sent four envoys to treat with Muhammtd Ali Kh&n. He detained three of them as hostages, and witk the fourth sent AKm PAdsbdh, a rich merchant, as his agent to Fekin, with certain demands for the government of the Mtisalm&n population of the towns of Eastern Turki^tan. He secured Ae following concessions for the Kh&n : first, dues as per sAariat on all merclMmdise brought by Musalm&l traders to the towns of Acsu, Ush Turftln, Kashghar^ Ydngi Hiss&r, Y&rkand and Khutan to go to the Eh6n of Khocand ; 9$eandy the power to appoint in each was i^pointed Inspector at K&shghalr on the part of Khokaad, and, according to i^eAndijam custom, held the post on lease. His authority extended over the *' silt cities " to which the treaty regulations applied> and hence the country was called by the Andijsn pec^le Altf 'Skahr, or by a different reckoning (in which Mar&lb&shI belonging to Ydrkand was counted separately) Yatif Skahf *' seven cities/' And this was the regfioa in which Khokand influence wad greatest, its ^ects being as yet barely perceptible in the eastern cities. Thus were established trade and political relatfons between Western China and Khokand. Through them the Khokandi acquired an increasing inilueDce in the cou^<> try, and a firmer grasp on the sympathies of the people, in opposition to the rule of the Chinese, to whose prestige the revolts of Jahdngfr in 1826, and of Yusuf in 1830, coupled with the influence exercised by the proximity of the Russians, proved (serious blows. Aft4)r reducing the Kari Kirghiz Muhammad Ali KhAn extended his frontiers> and in 1832 built the Kurtka Fort on the N&rin [and that of T&shkorghan on the Pdmir border, and he held besides nearly a fourth of the population of these towns under the rule of his agents. To keep this power, it was his interest td restrain the Khojas, and he consequently strictly watched their movements. Until 1846 the country enjoyed peace under the just and liberal rule ot Zuhdrud- and Tilft Kh&n passing on invested Ydrkand in June 1857. The Chinese issued from their fort to drive off the besiegers, but were defeated, and fled back to the shelter of their walls. The city meantime held out, though offering to surrender on the appearance of the Khoja himself, and Til£ Kh&n, after plunder- ing the suburbs, retired on the approach of Chinese succour. In seventy-seven days after the fall of KiUhghar — August---a Chinese force P. of 12,000 men, with the Ambdns F&khya from Ila, Shdy D&rin from Onimchf, Changt&y from Karishahr, and others arrived at Mar&lbdshi to the relief of Yirkand. Wall Kh&n sent out a force to intercept them, but it was defeated and driven back to K&shghar; and the Chinese advancing relieved YUrkand of the enemy* They halted here ten days to rest their men and settle the city, and then taking most of the Yirkand troops with them proceeded against Wall Kh&n at K&shghar. At Kizili they were opposed by a force sent out by him to stop their advance^ but immediately attacked and defeated it. The scattered troops, however, rallied and made a stand at Suj^at Bulic " Willow Spring'' to contest tiie passage to Y&ng( Hissfir. But they were again defeated and put to flii^ht, and the Chinese, carrying everything before them, at once pushed on and released the garrison shut up in Yingi Hiss&r. They halted here four days, and then marched to recover K&h^ar. But Wall Kh&n, now deserted by his chiefs and his army who were already disgusted at his licentiousness and terrified by his violent tempers and capricious judgments, fled from the city with only a few followers, without even waiting their arrival. He made good his escape to Darw&z, but was there made prisoner by the ruler, IsmiUl Sh6h, and delivered up to Ehud&yilr Kh&n. And thus, after a rule of only a hundred and fifteen days, in September 1857 ended the last of the Khoja revolts under the most licentious tyrant and blood-thirsty maniac of that ambitions and selfish fraternity. In his short reign he committed more bloodshed, and more oppression, and more villany than either of his predecessors, from whom he only differed in the degree of his wickedness. Wall Khiu was a degraded debauchee, and was seldom free from the intoxication of his favourite drug— -iian^. His ruthless cruelties and capricious executions, his hi ( 189 ) P. thirst for blood and his unholy lusts soon rendered his rale intolerable^ and awed even his most partial supporters into hatred. The pile of heads, to which in an unhappy moment was added that of the inoffensive scientific traveller, Adolphe Schla<^entweit, raised by him on the river-bank above the Eizil Bridge for long^ months remained a mournful testimony of his savage cruelties ; whilst the tales of his hellish barbarities are still fresh in the memory of a people for centuries accustomed to deaths and tortures in their worst forms. On the flight of Wali Kh&n the Chinese recovered possession of Kdshghar without opposition. The former officials, both Chinese and Khokandi, such as had escaped the clutches of Wali Kh&n, were dismissed and their offices given to others; whiLat the leaders in the revolt were one by one captured and executed with tortures. Amongst the first was Mir Ahmad Shekh, the custodian of the S&toc Ba<^hra Kh4a shrine at Alton Artosh, for his active partizanship with the Khoja rebel. He was crimped from heel to head and disembowelled ; and his heart plucked out, whilst '^et beating with life, was thrown to the dogs. He was then decapitated, and lis head exposed in a cage on the main road leading to the city, together with a long row of those of other victims of Chinese revenge. His eldest son, Mir Ali Cdbi, shared a similar fate; but three other sons, Abdurrahim, Ism&il, and Mahmud from whom I have derived the above particulars, escaped by the Kurtka Fort to Khokand. Many other leading men were executed with like barbarity, and their heads similarly exposed for their part in the revolt ; whilst hundreds of others perished in the revenge taken for the massacre of the Chinese merchants and settlers. These execu- tions did not cease till Auo^ust o( the following year, when relations on the former footing were resumed with Khokand, and Khud&y&r's a^ent arrived at Kdshghar. M. V. In the meantime Wali Kh&n on his return to Khokand was arraigned by the relatives of his victims for the murder of so many innocent Musalmins. He was formally tried by the XJlama, '' Doctors of the Law/' and with characteristic partiality acquitted as being a Syad or descendant of the Prophet; whilst his accusers were even fined for daring to asperse the character of one boasting such honourable lineage. He, however, met his retribution at last, and was assassinated at K&shghar, the very scene of his crime, by the present ruler, Y&kub Be^, whom he accompanied in tho party of Buzurg Ehdn, as will be mentioned hereafter. In the spring of 1858, Khud&ydr Kh&nsent Nasimddfn of Shahrikhan, who had acted in the same capacity in 1847, as envoy to Kiishghar to renew relations with tha Chinese, to express concern for the revolt, and to report the imprisonment of the notoriously free and favoured Wall Kh&n. The envoy arrived at Oshghar in August with a caravan of 500 returning fugitives, and the Chinese, at once granting the former concessions, accepted him as Khokand agent with the title of Didkhwdk, And thus the former relations between these incompatible people were once more resumed. P. In 1278 H. (1862 A.D.) afber the establishment of the Russian rule on the northern frontier of K&shghar, by their capture of the forts of Tokmak and Piskak which they took in August 1860, and on the eve of the Tungani revolt in Shensi, one other minor disturbance occurred in K&shghar before the final revolution that led to the severance of the whole province from its connection with the Chinese empire. The three refugee sons of Mir Ahmad Sbekh returned in this year from their asylum at Tashkand with a gathering of SOO men to recover their ancient patrimony in Artosh by the aid of the border Kirghiz who were their hereditary subjects. Near Kdshghar they fell in with a caravan of Chinese merchants, and plundering it killed seventeen of the traders in revenge of the death of their father. They then went on to Artosh where they raised the standard of revdt. On this a force of 2,000 Chinese . infantry from the MdngMhin and 1,000 cavalry from the city was sent Out against them by the Amb&n. The brothers were deserted by thdr rabble crew in tihe first skirmish with the enemy, and themselves fled the field as fast as any of them. ( 190 ) They were pnrsned and overtaken in the Arghti Valley adjoining Artosh. Here Abdnrrahim and several of his men were captured and taken prisoners to the Anibin, bnt the rest escaped into the hills and ultimately returned to Tashkand. Abdurrahim was kept in prison pending reference to the Vioeroy at Ila ; and after some months^ orders arriving from Pekin, he was publicly executed. Next followed the Tungani mutinyi and the invasion by Buzuig Kh&n Khoja, and the final conquest of the country by his General^ the Koahbegi Y&kub Beg^ At&lik Gh&zi, and now the Amir Muhammad Y&kub Kh&n. To understand these revolu- tions aright^ and to appreciate the differences that mark the character and exciting causes of this last from the previous revolts in this country^ it is necessary to go back and review the history of the Khokand State in regara to its political relations with this western province of the Chinese empirCi and to note the important fieust that^ though each and all of these revolts arose from one common source in the impatient ambition of Islam^ this last revolution sprang from the eastward as the act of a nation, or whole people for the supremacv of their religion; whilst its several predecessors originated as the work of a single ambitious family^ or of private individuals for their personal interests^ in the adjoining western state of Khokand which, Again, has finally interposed to replace the Muhammadan Chinese rule as represented by the Tungani rebels by the usurped authority of its own adventurers. This last revolution in fact, the description of which is to come, in contra- distinction to all the previous revolts, was an otttbeak amongst the Chinese themselves. It was Chinese destroying Chinese, the Muhammadan Tungani against the Budhist Khitay. In the midst of their contention the old Khoja claim was revived, but, as the Tungani had never been their partizans, it was nowhere supported, and hence the success of Y&kub Beg in the confusion of rival interests distracting the country— a success to which the presence of the Russians on the northern frontier was not with- out effect in determining the course of events. The province of Fargh&na, Andijan, or Khokand, as it is indifferently called^ V. B. was during the rule of the Moghol Kh&ns a more or less independent principality^ mostly in alliance with Bukh&dL, under the rule of princes of the Tymiir dynasty. After the defeat of Babur, whose father, Umar Shekh, was its ruler, the province fell into the possession of the Uzbak, Sh&hibeg Kh&n or Shaibfin, in whose time from Osh to Khojand was the country of Y6nus Kh&n. His sons, with the aid of the Kirghiz and Kapch^k, drove out the usurper Tanbal, and then warred with the Uzbak for possession of all the lands on the banks of the Syhon or Jaxartes, claiming these Turkistan lands as the descendants and heirs of Kaid6. On the decline of their dynasty, during the reign of Bashid Sult&n of K&sh- P. ghar, the power of the Moghol Kh&ns succumbed to that of the Uzbak, and was shortly after usurped by the Khoja pretenders. In the anarchy characterizing the last years of the long reign of AbduUa, and the few months of that of his son and successor, Abddl Momin, with whose death in 1597 A.D. the Shaibfinf dynasty ended, the province of Farghfina recovered its independence under local chiefs ; and maintained it more or less continuously during the disordered reigns of princes of the Ashtarkh&n dynasty which ended with Ab61 Fyz who, shortly after his surrender to N&dir in September 1870, was murdered together with his son by his own toas^, Rahim B&y of the Manghit tribe, who then usurped the government and founded the existing djmasty of Bukh&r&. I have not met with any published account of the history of Andijan during this period of turmoil marking the decline of the Ashtar Kh&n dynasty, in which it appears the province regained independence under a local chief who founded the power of the present ruling family there. Whilst at K£shghar, I obtained a manu- script account of the conquest of the country by Yikdb Beg, At&lik Ghfizi, written for me by his General Abdulla, AmirilasAkar, who was a principal actor in the events he describes. He was the most trusted and most active of Y&kub Beg^s adherents, and joining him at the outset, served him faithfnily and well till incapacitated by an 33— Cradle Scene, Yangi Hissar. 34.— Children and Toy, Yangi Hissar. » • • • • \ ' i / \ » • ■• I ' ( 191 ) P. inconble afSiction. His impetuoiis braverj and ferocitj Id battle soon gained him the reputation of a snccessful soldier, and he rose to the rank of AairilatAiar, '^ C!ommander of an Army '' or General^ before he was obliged to retire from active service to the unemployed rank of Patuaddi, ^^ Commander of 500/^ He is said to have killed with his own hands full 10^000 of the enemy — men, women and children—* during the six years of war, and was struck blind, even his admirers admit, by the direct act of God to prevent his destroying more of His innocent creatures. In the introductory pages of this little book, which is entitled chronographically as^well as significantly, TdriiAi Sighdr, " Little History/' 1290 H. (1878-74 A.D.)> is a brief notice of the rise and progress of the present ruling family of Khokand. From this, with other published data and personal enquiries on the spot (Kfishghar), I am enabled to compile the following account : T.S. In 1104 H. (1692 A.D.) there resided in the suburbs of Khokand two Kapch&k brothers, originally of Changiz descent, named Culun Bi and Cham^ch Bi. They were disciples of Maul&n& Lutfulla of Chust, which is seven farsakh off across the Biver Syhon ; and they used daily to cross the river together to sapply the vene- rated divine with curds and cream. The divine always favoured the elder brother, Culun Bi ; but one day as they went to him with their daily offering they were attacked by a party of Manghit robbers who relieved Culiin of his load. In the struggle Cham&ch escaped to Chust with his portion of the curds and cream. Lutfulla on learning the cause of the other's absence, for being empty-handed after escape from his despoilers he returned home, told the younger brother that it was his fortune to gain his blessing ; and forthwith stretching his hands to heaven the Saint prayed, '' Oh God I grant that the children of Cham&ch Bi become kings, '' and those of (Dulun Bi, ministers. And grant, Oh God I that the children of Manghit, ''exceeding forty, be bom blind.^' Chamich Bi died in Khokand, and left a son named Rahim Bi who became king. On his death his son Erd&n& (Edenia or Adania) succeeded to the throne. He con- quered Kar&takin and Darw&z and P&mir to Wakh&n, and in 1 768 A.D. acknowledg^ed tiie protectorate of the Chinese empire bordering on his eastern frontier. He left two sons, Muhammad Amin and Sh&hrukh, of whom the first and eldest succeeded to the throne. He soon died, and left two sons, N£rbot& Beg and H&ji Beg. N&rboUL Beg succeeded, and he, too, acknowledged the protectorate of China, and sent his brother H&ji B^ out of the way on a pilgrimage to Mecca. On his return thence he married a Khokand lady, who bore him a son named Beg Oghaly. After- wards he took a second wife, the daughter of a chief of the Cochcdr Jumgh&l Kirghiz, and she bore him a son named Sher Ali. N&rboti Beg left two sons, Alim Beg and Umar Beg, of whom the former succeeded to the Khdni. Culun Bi left a son, Ernazar Mirz&, who was Begibdsk, or '' Commander-in-Chief," in the time of Bahim Bi, and was noted for his bravery and exploits. He died a natural death, and left a son named Abdurrahm&n Mirzi* He succeeded as Begibdsh, and soon acquired a reputation eclipsing that of his father. He captured Gharms&r&u and Namang&n from the Khoja rulers, and wrested Marghindn from the Uzbak possessors. He conquered the districts of Isf&r and Ch&rkoh held by Zumurrud Sh&h, and drove the Mirs from Or&tappa. He also captured Khujand, and built the frontier forts of Sh^rukhya and KO&ochi. All these enterprises he carried out as the Begibdsh of Erddni Bi, in whose reign the whole province was consolidated under one rule. After this he raised a large army in Khujand, and passiug Jizz&k laid siege to Samarcand for twenty-eight days, when he retired on the payment of a yearly tribute of one pid of gold by the Bukh&r6 ELing, Sh&h Mur&d Bi, and carried away with him the Kar&calp£k families found there. Whilst he was engaged on this expedition, Awlay Kh&n, the Governor of T^hkand, raided Gharms&r&n and Namang&n, and was returning with his plunder, when Abdurrabm&n giving chase overtook hun at Toetappa, and recovered the booty and captives. He sent these to Nirboti at Khokand, and himself returned by a 20 ( 192 ) Kil&oclii to Ehnjand to protect that frontier. Awlay Khin died at Tibhkand a T.S. month after this defeat, and Yunus Khoja, a descendant of the Kh&Iif Umar, then became Kh&n in his place. Three months later, in 1214 H. (1799 A.D.) N&rboti Beg died, and was sncceeded by his son Alim Khin. At this time Abdurrahm&n was lying paralytic at Khujand, and his son Abddlla Mirzi became Ko9kbegi with the new Khan ; but Alim, jealous of the great influence he had acquired and dread- ing his rivalry, had the infirm old man brought to him at the capital, and executed him at the Khoja Tur&b Mazdr, a shrine two fanakh from the city. Alim had reigned eight years when, in 1222 H. (1806 A.D.)> he went against Yunus at Tfislikand and took the city. In the assault Abdiilla Koihbegi was wounded, and after a month died from the effects of the injury. His son, Rahm&n Culi Mirzi, succeeded as KoBhbegi ''Lord of the family ,'' or ''Controller of the household.'^ Alim Kh&n stayed a year at T&shkand to settle the country, and then appointing his own governors returned to the capital. Two years later, however, he was recalled by disturbances there, and leaving his brother Umar in charge of Khokand hurried off with a large army to Tishkand. He was detained here a year in quelling the revolt, and finally quieted the country by many executions and severe punishments. Owing to his cruelties the chief people fled from the city, and joining Umar at Khokand set him on the throne as Kh&n. On this Alim set out to recover his capital, but was encountered at Tocsin C&wun by the rebel chiefs who seized and executed him, 1226 H. (1810 A.D.). Umar Kh&n now ascended the throne in his own right. He had a troubled reign of twelve years, and died in 1288 H. (1822 A.D.) and was succeeded by his eldest souy Mulmmmad Ali Kbdu. On his accession to the throne Jahfingir Khoja fled from Khokand and, joining the Kirghiz, raised them to hostility against the Chinese at Kashgbar, and in 1825 vnth them seized the country. Muhammad Ali Khdn joined him there in June of the following year to secure the conquest for himself, but, being coldly received and losing many men in the siege of the Chinese citadel, he hastily retreated to his capital. Four years later he sent his General Hacc Culi Beg, with Ytisuf Khoja and a strong army, to avenge the defeat of Jah^ngir and annex K&shghar to his own dominions. His activily in this direction excited the jealousy of NasruUa or Bah&dtir Khdn, the Amir of Bukh&r^ who marched against him. Consequently Muhammad Ali Khin, in the end of 1880, recalled his Qeneral from Kishgbar after he had been there only three months, and the Khoja returned with him just as the Chinese reinforcements arrived to recover the place. Muhammad Ali Khfin reigned successfully for nineteen years, and was the most powerful of all the Khokand Kh&ns. The states of Khutan, Y4rkand, K&hghar, Uch Turfan, and Aksu, though in the possession of the Chinese, paid the zakdt collected from Musalm^n merchants to him, and he appointed his own agents in these towns for the realization of these dues, and for the protection of the interests of the Musal- m4ns. The Jattah country of Zungh&r up to 11a, and the whole of Mogholistan up to Kizil J&r also paid zakat to him. In the direction of Organj he annex^ Akmasjid and Kumosh Kurghin, and in that of Bukhiri all the country up to two far^akk of Jizz&k acknowledged his rule. S^d, the Amir Hydar of Bukh&rii, died in the second year of his reign, in 1240 H. (1824 A.D.), and was succeeded by his son Amir NasruUa, called Bah&ddr Kh&n. On his accession to the throne Muhammad Ali Khdn sent his Kaskbegi^ Azim B&y, to him with messages of condolence and congratulation. The new Amir acknowledged Muhammad Ali as his elder brother, and with his envoy returning to Khokand sent his own ambassador and rich presents ; other envoys went and came, and a treaty of Srpetual friendship between the two States was concluded. It was after this that uhammad Ali, in 1827, undertook his campaign against the Kirghiz ; and in the sue- ceeding years made tributary all the Zungh&r country and the western cities of Kish* ghar, held by the Chinese^ up to Aksii inclusive. ( 1»3 ) T.S. Later he destroyed the frontier fort of Pesh&gir, built by the Khokandis in 1819, and erected the fort of Knramma at two fanakh from Jizzltk, and placing^ his own garrison in it under Mingbdahi Gad&j B&y took up his residence at Or&tappa where he devoted himself to wine and women. Bah&dtir Khan now jealous of his growing power^ and incensed by his encroach- ment upon the Bukh&r& frontier, in 18S9 took the field and marched against the new Kuramma Fort. Grad&y B&y held out for fifteen days, and then, abandoning his charge, fled and joined his master at Or&tappa. Muhammad Ali Kh&n, now roused from his pleasures by alarm for his throne, at once marched against the enemy, and camping at a faraakh from the fort, in a fit of boldness inspired by an extra dose of bhang, came out and challenged Bahddur Kh&n to meet him in single combat. His nobles^ however, intervening vnth professions of devotion to his service and person, persuaded him to retire, and the would-be champion, on recovery from his intoxication, being seized by- sudden misgivings as to the loyalty of his nobles, abruptly quitted his army, and with only fifty followers fled to Khokand, which he reached in eight days. His army fought for three days and then followed the example of their Eh4n. Nasrulla pur- sued the fugitives, and captured the forts of Zamin and Or&tappa, and planting hii own garrisons in them returned to Bukh&rd to watch the operations of the British army in Afghanistan. On his departure Muhammad Ali Kh£n returned, and, driving out the Bukh&ri troops, recovered Oritappa. But Nasrulla again took the field against him with a numerous army, and in the spring of the following year, 1840, defeated Muhammad Ali and dispersed his army. He followed up this victory by a succession of others, and between September and November annexed Kuramma, Nao, Khujand, and T&shkand, and the country beyond up to the Dasht Kapchak. He appointed his own governors in most of these places, but gave the government of Khujand to Sultfin Mahmud Kh&n, the brother and rival of Muhammad Ali Khan ; and then fearful of the Russians who were pressing on the Jaxartes, and mistrustful of the British who held on at Kabul with Sh&h Shuja-ul-Mulk, hastened back to Bukh&ri where, during the preceding six years, he had received as envoys from Russia, Demaison in 18S4, and Yitcovich in 18S5 ; and as envoys from India, Stoddart in 1888, and Conolly in 1840, both of whom he at this time held prisoners, and both of whom he sub- sequently murdered — on the 17th June 1842. V.B. On the departure of Nasrulla the two brothers immediately became reconciled, and revolted ; consequently, again, in April 1841, Bahadur Kh4n set out with a powerful army, breathing wrath and vowing the destruction of Khokand, which at this time was an open town without any fortified walls. Muhammad Ali Kh4n here held the enemy in check for seven days, and then fled with his family towards Marghin&n. At Yacca T6t they were all seized by Mahmfid Khoja, the governor, and delivered over to Nasrulla by whom they were all immediately murdered. Thus perished in 1258 H. ( 1841 A.D.) Muhammad Ali Kh&n, the most able and the most powerful of all the Khokand Khdns, his mother, his wives, his brother Sult&n Mahm6d Kh&n, and his son Muhammad Amin Beg who was accused of incest with his mother. His other sons, Muhammad Ali, Muhammad Karun, Uuhammad Bahim, Azim Beg, and Abdulla Mirzi, with many nobles and principal officers, were sent away prisoners to Bukh&rd. Satisfied with this extinction of the rival dynasty, Nasrulla spared Khokand the threat he vowed against it, and instead established Ibrahim Khj&l, Manghit, formerly Gbvemor of Marv, as his Governor in it, with a considerable garrison in support. He then returned triumphant to his capital, more than ever pufiSed with pnde, and more than ever abandoned to his brutish lusts and inhuman cruelties. Two months after the departure of the Amir with his Bukhdra army, Musal- min Cull, Kapchdk, assembled the Kirghiz, Kapch&k, Uzbak, and T&jik Chiefs, with their respective contingents, at Namang&n, and by their consent set Sher Ali, the son of Haji Beg, up as Kh4n. On the accession of AUm Kb&n to the throne, he had ( 194 ) been sent ont of the way to tbe Kirghiz, and was now willing to accept the vacant T.S. throne under the gfuidance of Musalm&n Culi as his wazir* They, cooseqnentlyj at once marched against Ibrdhun Khiydl, and driving him oat of Khokand set to work, and in forty days surrounded the city with fortified walls. Sher Ali now established himself in the citadel as Kh&n of Khokand with Musalmin Guli as waz4r, and appointed his sons to the principal provincial governments. Thus Khud&y&r got Namaug&n, Sarimsak got Marghinin, and S4fi Beg got Andijan^ whilst Mallah Kh^n remained at oonrt with his father. Meanwhile Ibr&him Khiydl, who had been pursued to K&ni Bddam, escaped to Bukh&r&, whence NasruUa once more set out to recover his lost conquests. His grand preparations, fierce threats^ and pompous boasts, however, did not avail him ; ,for after a siege of sixty days, in which he lost many men by deaths and desertions, he was obliged to retire from Kbokand nnsuccessful. But his retreat did not restore peace to the country. The sons of the late Muhammad Ali Kh4n, whom he had left in prison at Bukh&r&, escaped from their durance during his' absence on this campaign, and returning to Khokand immediately raised a tumult in favour of their prior rights to the government. Sher Ali did his utmost to appease them, and appointed Muhammad Karim, the most active and ambitious of them, as HudaycAi, or ^' Chamberlain,^^ in his own court. He at once made use of his position to usurp the rule for himself, and by his overbearing conduct quickly made an enemy of tibe wazir, Musalman Culi, who carried off Khud&y&Tj and fled with him to the mountains. There he raised a party of his own Kapchak and the ELirghiz, and descending upon Khokand seized and executed Muhammad Karim with a number of his partizans^ and re-established Sher Ali as the Kh&n, with himself as waz6^ as before. On this Sarimsak, with the support of Alim Beg and Syad Beg, Dddkiiodls, and a party of Kirghiz, rebelled at Ifsh or Osh. Musalman Culi forthwith went against them, and defeating their troops at M&di, captured and executed Sarimsak. Whilst Musalm&n Culi was thus engaged in the east of the province, Mur&d Khan, son of Alim Khdn, had come with aid from Bukh&r& to *Uthmani on the west of it, and thence seizing Khokand had killed Sher Ali Kbdn after he had reigned three years. The Kapch&k and Uzbak now combined and set up Khuddy&r, aged fifteen years, as Khin with Musalm&n Culi as his loazir, and recovering Khokand executed Murad Kh&n after he had ruled onlv three weeks. Musalm&n CuK, the king-maker, now took all the power into his own hands, the youthful Khud&ydr being a mere puppet on his accession to the throne in 1845. In the time of Muhammad Ali Kb&n, the command of the Akmasjid Fort was given to Muhammad Ali Beg of Margliin&u with a garrison of 500 men, and be continued to hold the post under the rule of Khudayar till he was killed in its defence against the Russians in July 1852. At this time Nar or Nazar Muhammad of Kar&sd near Osh was the Governor of Tashkand for Khudaydr. He had given a sister in marriage to Y&kiib Beg of Piskat in the suburbs, and now^ through his influence with Musalm&n Culi, got his brother-in-law appointed to the charge of the Akmasjid Fort with the rank of Coshbegi. Y&kub Beg held the post for a year till its capture by the Russians in August 1858. In the December following his expulsion from Akmasjid, Y&kub Be^ set out from Tdshkand with Sufi Beg, the brother of Khuddydr Khan^ and a force of 600 horse to recover the fort, but they were all put to flight in the very first encounter. In the following April 1854, Khud&y&r himself prepared to march against Akmasjid^ but was diverted from his purpose by an inopportune attack on his frontier by NasruUa Kb&n. Khud^ydr had for long been impatient of the power and control of his foaztr, and now in 1855, having staved off the hostility of Bukhdr&, he determined to get rid of his obnoxious minister ; and to this end instigated a number of his nobles 35.— Presents made to the Amir of Kashghar in the name of H. M. The Queen, and of H. E. the Viceroy, 36. — Vuz-bashi, Paujabashi, and Dah-bashi, at attention. •:i * '. r ( 195 ) T.S. whose jealousy and hatred of Masalm&n Cnii were well known to him. A party of twenty of them leagaed together to carry out the Kh&n's and their own wishes. They seized the wazir one morning as he came to the court for the usual salutation, and hurrying him off to the execution square there '^ spread-eagled '^ him on a boards and so left him for three days to the insults and jeers of a rabble of hired ruffians, and then gibbeted him on the gallows hard by. And such was the recompense the '^king-maker^' Kapch&k received for setting Khud&y&r Kh&a on the throne, and for having ruled the country for thirteen years with more moderation and justice than any of the legitimate Kh&ns had shown themselves capable of. Khttdayir now took the reins of government into his own hands^ and, amongst Other changes, appointed KosAbegi Y&kub Beg to the charge of the Kil&ochi Fort and made some ineffectual attempts to recover the Akmasjid Fort from the Russian grasp. Whilst absent on one of these expeditions his elder brother, Mallah Khan^ with the aid of the Kapch&k and Kirghiz, captured Khokand after a siege of seventeen days, and was immediately joined by most of the nobles. Khud&yir and a younger brother, Sult&n Murfid, on this retired to Bukh&r& for asylum and aid ; whilst Mallah Kh&n, establishing himself at the capital, posted his own governors over the country. Thus he sent Sii6 Beg to Namangdn, Hasan Beg to Marghinin, Alim Beg to Andijan, Isr&r Culi toChamyan, Muhammad Musi to T&shkand, Syad Beg to Khujand, and Y4kilib Beg, KoaAbe^i, he raised to the rank of Shaghawul, or ** Foreign Minister,^' and appointed to the charge of the fort oC Kuramma. Alim Culi he appointed as his own Zinbarddr, or " Equerry,'' and Khadir and Beg Muhammad each as HuddycAi, or '^ Court Chamberlain,'^ and Cand'at Sh^ he kept at Rhokand as his Ndib, or '^ Deputy Governor," and subsequently sent him to Tdshkand to watch the Russian movements in the direction of Hazrat Sult&n Turkist&n. In the commotion and excitement following the murder of Musalm&n Culi the Khoja Wali Eh4n, Tora, set out from Khokand on his expedition against Kfishghar. Whilst he was perpetrating his barbarities there the Kirghiz and Kapch&k in Khokand rose in revolt under the lead of Alim Culi, and killing Mallah Kh&n set Sh&h Murlui, a grandson of Sher Ali, on the throne. Khuddydr on this advanced from Jizzdk with a Bukh&rd force and seized T&shkand, where Can&'&t Shdb and Y&kub Beg, 8haghdwul of Kuramma (he had been associated with the other to watch the Russians) surrendered the city, and, joining him, set him on the throne there as Kh&n. For this service Y&kub Beg was again taken into fbvour by Khud&y&r Kh4n and re-appointed to his former office of Koshbegi. Meanwhile Sh&h Mur&d, who had been put on the throne by Alim Culi, Kapch&k, set out with him as Amfrilaskhar against Tdshkand. On their arrival Y&kiil) Beg, Koah^egi, joined the Kapch&k leader, and they both retired to Kuramma, the fort of the former. Here they increased and fully equipped their army, and then returned and besieged T£shkand. After a month of dose investment and desultory skirmishing, finding their troops disheartened and beginning to desert, they raisea the siege and withdrew to Khokand, whence Alim Cuh sent Y^kdb Beg as Governor to Khujand. Khuday&r, having in the meantime summoned the aid of the Bukhdra Amir, now marched against Khujand with the Bukh&ri army under Muzaffar-ud-din himself who in the previous year, 1860, had succeeded to the throne on the death of his father, Nasrulla, and now joined him on the banks of the river. Y&k6b Beg surrendered the fort, and Khud&y&r sent him away under surveillance with the army returning to Bnkhiri with the Amir, and then went on with a detachment of it to be set on the throne for the second time at Khokand. The Bukhiri army took the city after a siege of ten days, when Alim Culi escaped to Kar4su, and Shdh Murid Kh&n to his uncle amongst iJie Kirghiz in the hills. Khud&y4r now took possession of his old quarters in the citadel, and sent a 21 ( 196 ) Saliman Khoja, the Shekhulialdm or ''high priest^^ of Khokand^ to re«4u»iire and T.3. conciliate Alim Culi and bring him in on a promise of pardon and kind treatments But the wily and rough Kapch^k refused to trust the '' high piesf s'^ promises, and turned a deaf ear to his honied words of persuasion ; and Khud&y&r in consequenoe sent a foroe to coerce him under Mull& Sultin as commander* He seized Aodijoii and detached Abdulli Pdntad (the author of the work I quote) to secure Shahrikhia whilst he fortified his own position. But on the third night Alim Culi took the fort by surprise and killed nearly a thousand of the Kirghiz and EApch&k^ whilst MolU Sultdn escaped on foot and in disguise to Sbahrikhan. Khud&y&r immediately took the field to retrieve this disaster, but on arrival at Kar&wultappa he mistrusted his Elirgbiz and Kapoh&k, and consequently sent 8,000 of them back to Khokand. He then advanced by Karajighda and Marghinin to Yacca Tut, where he was joined by Mulli Sultan and Abdulla with their diminished foroe. Alim Culi in this interval had left Andijan and taken up a position at Aska, and Khud&y4r, learning this from his scouts, left his main army standing, and with a small force advanced to attack him at Csbk Shor ; but he was forestalled by his adversary who fell upon him with his whole force as he reached the ground. A severe fight followed, and lasted till sunset, with great loss on both sides. Sult&n Mur&d, the brother of Khudiydr, fled the field and took the road to the capital, but was stopped by the army left at Yacca Tut; and the Kh&n^ unable to follow his example, set to work and fortified his position with carts and camp equipagd for the night. He was here besieged for three days when Alitn Culi, failing to force his defences with his few men, retired to Marghin&n to collect his Kapehik from the hills ; and Khuddyir thus set free seized the opportunity and hurried back to Yacca Tilt where he halted four days, and sent ofi^ messengers reporting a great victory and the flight of the enemy, for the satisfaction of his party at Khokand. His couriers had no sooner started, however, than Alim Culi re-appeared with a fresh army and besieged Khud&y&r in his camp for forty days, and tiien making a dash at Khokand seized the city ; here the priests and chief citizens coming out with curdns borne on their heads welcomed his arrival and set him on the throne as KMn. Khndij&T now in turn resumed the offensive, and following the usurper attacked him in the capital ; and here all the people again turned back to the side of their lawful chief. Alim Culi, unabler to hold the place against such a combination, quitted the city taking with him seventeen cannons he found in it, and continued the war by besieging Andijan, which had been re-oceupied on the part of Khud&y&r by Kfidir Culi Beg. He held out eight days, and then surrendering the place joined the Kapcbak leader who with his new ally then attacked Marghinln held by Mull& Sult&n. He was killed in a sortie, and his Mingbdsh4, Mirzi Ahmad, then abandon-* ing the fort fled to Khokand. AUm Culi secured the place with a garrison and then went in pursuit of the fugitive. In this iuterim Khuddy&r had sent his sister as wife to the Bnkh&rd Amir with envoys to seek his aid. Muzaffaruddin married the lady, and then in 1863 set out with a large army to the support of his new brother-in*law who was now hard-pressed by Alim Culi besieging the capital, when the relieving army opportunely arrived at Khujand. Alim Cull's outpost pickets being driven in by the adrancing army, he raised the siege and retired to Donnanja to watch events, but finding that the Bukhird army had entered Khdcand be set out on the third day and retreated to Kar&su. After a week's delay Khnd&y&r took the field in pursuit of the enemy, and his ally of Bukh&r& followed a march in rear. Alim Culi was defeated at KarfoS and pursued to Uzkand, whence he entered the hills and fortified a very strong position in the Kar6 Khoja Tar^ or *^ Defile/' Khudfiyir followed him, but, frightened by difficulties of the country, hastily retired from the hills^and joined his ally who was devastating the plain country. Muzaffiiruddin, after a f eaat to celebrate their sucoeai ( 197 ) T*S« add meetings, Wfts visited by a severe fiightmare, and takings the dream as a bad omen, at once struck bis camp and hastened back by Marghin&n to Khokand whencej after a halt of fourteen days, he set out for his own capital, taking Sult&n Murid with him. On the departure of this Bukfaltr& army, with which he had returned from his exile, Y&kub Bes; Kothbegiy B&tur Culi Shaffkditml, and Mirz& Ahmad Ko4hb€gij with several Pdnsad officers and others, joined Alim Culi. On this Muzaffaruddin halted at Surkhsu, and sent Sult4n Mur&d back to Khokand as Kh^n. But, as he could not hold the place, he left it after a week, and accompanied by Abdtilla Pdnsad went to join Alim Culi. On arrival at Osh they were met by T^h Khoja BuddycAi from Alim Culi, and he, according to his orders, kiUed Bui tan Mur&d and took Abdtilla back with him to his mastor who robed him and took him into his own service. From Osh Alim CuU moved to Y&r Mazfir, and halting a week held a consul- tation with his adherents, and by their consent decided on bringing Syad Sult&n Beg, the son of Mallah Khin, from Namangin and setting him up as Kh&n, with himself as his minister. Syad Sult4n, on assuming the government, sent Yikub Beg as Mir to the Kuramma Fort, and himself marched with Alim Culi to Khokand whence Khud&y&r retreated to Jizzik* He here collected the relics of his deserted army, and from amongst their chiefs sent Ming B&y and Nar Muhammad LoBhkarbdih, and several Pdnuad officers, with a force to secure Khujand which, with the aid of Y^kiib Beg from Kuramma with his contingent, they took after a siege of ten days, the Governor Dost Muhammad, Kar&calp&k, escaping to Bukh&ri. AHm Culi arrived there a few days later, and appointing Mirz& Ahmed Kothbegi to the government, set out for T^hkand by Kuramma, where he was entertained by Y&kdb E^g. At T&hkand Alim Culf was the guest of ^jhe Governor Suliman Khoja, but suspecting his fidelity he killed him, and re-established Nar Muhammad, the brother* in-law of Yakub B^, in the government ; he returned then to Khokand by Kildoohi, from which he summoned Y4bib Beg to join him, and sent Hydar Culi, Kapch&k, to take his place at Kuramma. Whilst these events were following one the other in Khokand, much more important changes were enacting in the countries bordering to the north and east. In the former direction the Russians were steadUy pushing on from Uch Alm& Atd or Alm4ti (or Fort Vemoe, as their great military post on the north of Isigh Kol is called). They took Awliyi At4 or Aulieta on the 16th June 1864, and Hazrat Turkist&n on the 24th of the same month. From the latter the Governor^ Mirzi Daulat, fled to T&shkand where he found AKm Culi with a large army busily fortiffing the defences of the city, to which he had hastened on the first intelligence of the Russian advance. From Tashkand Alim Culi advanced with a considerable force under Ming B4y LoiiiarbdsA to secure Chamkand, but he was met and attacked on arrival there by a Russian column from Turkistdn; and after a severe encounter succeeded in driving them back. The Awliyi Ati column, however, coming up at this juncture joined that from Turkistdn, and the combined Russian forces next day made an attack upon Chamkand. Alim Culi fought with his accustomed impetuosity and bravery, and forced the Russians to fall back upon Turkist&n. He then put the defences of the place into repair, and leaving Mirza Ahmad Kosibegi in its command with a strong garrison, hurried back to control affairs at Khokand, to recover which Khuddy&r was intriguing. Three months had hardly elapsed when news came that the Russians were again moving in g^reat force against Chamkand. On this Alim Culi at once despatched Ytidkh Beg KosAbepi to hold and strengthen the defences of T&shkand. On his arrival there, however, be was joined by Mirzi Ahmad just arrived from Chamkand, whence he had been driven by the Russians who took the place in the beginning of October 1864, and ten days later pushed on against T&shkand. As they approadied ( 198 ) Yikdb Beg came out to oppose them with all his force. A severe fight took place in T.S. which the Rassians lost 200 men killed, bat they drove the TIkshkand army back into their fort^ and were then obliged themselves to retreat on the fourth day back to Chamkand. Whilst this straggle was going on at the frontier^ Alim Call with Syad Sult&n Kh&n and a large army was hurrying up from Khokand to the support of T&shkand^ and on his arrival there rewarded the defenders and sent the heads of the Russians alain all over the country as trophies of their success against " the cursed Urds/' He then set to work to improve the defences and dispose his troops on the fortification. Whilst he was thus engaged an envoy arrived from Sadie Beg^ Kirghiz of Elishghar, announcing the destruction of the Chinese rule there and the capture of the city by himself^ and asking him to send a Khoja whom he might set on the throne as king of the country. Alim Culi^ in reply to this appeal, sent Buzurg Khdn Khoja, the only son of J&hangir Khoja, to recover the throne of his ancestors, and appointed Y&kub B^ Koihbegi to accompany him as Batii/r-bdM ^' Leader of the braves,'' or Oeneral of his forces, by way of securing his own interests and maintaining the Khokand influence in the Kdshghar States. Before following the Khoja, or Tora as he is usually styled, and his Oeneral in P. their career at Kdshghar, it wiU be profitable first to trace oat, most briefly though it be, that rapid succession of conquests and victories which in the course of a few short years have extended the Russian territory and rule from Alm&ti Yemoe on the uorth-east to the very gates of Bukh&r& on the south-west; because this extension of Christian rule and civilized government over the Muhammadan and barbarous States of Central Asia, favoured in its saccess by the wild anarchy and savage despotism rampant in those very States, whilst opening out a bright future to these too-long benighted regions, has not been without an important influence on the Isldm polity of not only Central Asia, but the whole Muhammadan world ; for since the days of the Kh&lifs, Bukh&r&, the CubbaUuliilam, or " Centre Prop of the Faith,'' has always been considered the most sacred seat of its power and doctrine, and its decadence here during the past decade is already attended by signs of its revival elsewhere ; in the prime seat in fact of its origin and growth. After the retreat of the Russians from their nnsucoessful attack against Tdshkand T.S. in the latter days of October 1864^ the Khokandi under Alim Culi were emboldened to assume the offensive, and early in December invested the village of Chilik which had been recently taken by them. A small party of Cossacks was sent to its relief from Turkist&n, bat on arrival at Ayc&n or Ika.n was cut off* from succour and surrounded by an overwhelming force of Khokandis who fought behind shields and moveable mantlets called cardburd. The devoted band fought with heroic bravery, and was nearly cut to pieces without inflicting much injaiy upon their assailants, and only a small remnant, fighting their way through, effected a safe return to Turkistan Rodl on the 18th December 1864. With the first opening of spring the Russians again took the field to avenge Rom. this disaster to their arms, and on the 10th May 1865 General Chernayef took the fort of Ny&zbeg, and on the 20th of the same month, in correspondence with a party in the city who had agreed to surrender the town, camped at eight versi, or about five miles from T&hkand ; but Alim Culi with 6,000 men and 40 guns entering the city the same day the pre-arranged *' coup " failed. On the following morning Alim CuH with 40,000 men issued to destroy '' the P* cursed Urus" who were only 4,000 strong. My informant, one who took an active part in the fight, described how the eager Khokandis swarmed to the promised destruction of their entrapped foe ; how, surging in tumultuous crowds over the low ridges that broke the general level of the plain, they closed around the thick- est ranks of the enemy ; how, as they pressed harder and nearer, the Russian priests raised aloft the effigy of their saint, and bare-headed prayed for his intercession and ( 199 ) ' nid ; and how tke Basskn General^ taking off his hat^ with earnest gesticuhitions and' raised Toioe called on his men to fight bravely^ and with their lives to maintain nntami^ed their proud name and the honour of their country. And he described how his master^ AHm Culi^ at this moment led a charge which was the signal for all the rest to &11 on and annihilate their prey, when a few skirmishers thrown out brought him to a stop by a chance ball through his belly. His fall was followed by a short oommotion, and his retreat from the field. The news was immediately spread through the assailing host^ and as immediately its disorderly crowds turned and fied^ each its own way ; and in less than an hour not a vestige remained of that vast multitude which, in the name of Islim^had oome out to devour the '^ infidel Urtis.'' And thus that brave band of Russians passed from the jaws of death to the security afforded by a complete victory, with the capture of 200 muskets taken and a loss of 300 men killed inflicted upon the retiring enemy. The wounded Alim Cull was carried off the field by his Commandant of Artillery, one Nabbi Baksh, a native of Sialkot in the Panjdb, who, since the days of the Sikh campaign, had found a livelihood here in the courts of Bukh&r^ and Khokand successively. He now took his master up in his lap and galloped off the field as fast as his horse could carry the double load, leaving his guns and every- thing else to take care of themselves. Alim Culi died in Tishkand the same evening, and an assembly of the chiefs in consultation then decided on sending for aid to Bukhari, and in the meantime to continue the defence under Mirza Ahmad Koikbegif and Ata Beg Dddkhwdh who was formerly the Governor of Piskak Fort when it was taken by the Russians in August 1860. Rom. To intercept the aid summoned from Bukh&rd, the Russians on the 29th May marched to Zinohata on the Bukhari road and took possession of Chin&z, whilst the Bukhara army advancing to Samarcand occupied the frontier forts on the Syr Daryi (the Syhon or Jaxartes). Ghi this the Russians advanced against T^hkand and invested the city on three sides during the 18th-19th June. A couple of days later the Khokand Kh&n, Sultin Murid, with 200 followern quitted the city by night, and at the same time Iskandar Beg with a small Bukhiri force entered it. The Russians consequently stormed the town on the night of the 26th-27th June, and after a desperate resiatance captured the city and during the next two days disarmed its people, 29ih June 1866. T.S. On the death of Alim Culi his chiefs, as above stated, held on in the fort, and by mutual consent sent the Aiiakdl of the city to Bukh^r^ for aid. The Amir Muzaffaruddin forthwith advanced to Samarcand, and sent off Allahy&r Beg, Governor of Oratappa, and Sher Ali Dddkhwdh of Tdshkand who was at the time with Khuddydr at Jizz&k, to hold the place. On arrival at Tashkand they seized Syad Sultan Kh&n, the puppet of Alim CuH, and sent him off under escort to Muzaffaruddin who had by that time arrived at Jizz^k. He kept Syad Sultdn prisoner in his camp, and started off Khud&ydr from his retreat there with an army to recover Khokand. He was welcomed at N&o by the Governor, M dUn Dddkhwdh, who surrendered the fort to him ; and Khud&y&r, securing it with a garrison of his own, went on to Khujund where the people hailed his return with joy, and installed him in the citadel; where Khud&y&r at once set to fortify himself. Meanwhile the usurpers in Khokand had set up Khud4 Culi Beg, the son of Macsud Beg who was the uncle of Sher Ali Kh&n, as Kh&n of the Kirghiz and Kapch&k. Khud£y&r consequently invoked the aid of Mnzaffurudin who at once marched from Jizz&k to Khujand, where he was joined by Sultan Murdd fleeing from Tashkand. He detained Mudid as a prisoner, and sent Khud&ydr with an army against the rebels. On his arrival at Besharic, Khud& CuH with his Kapch^k and Kirghiz fled to Marghin^n, and Khud^y^r taking possession of Khokand called up the Amir of Bukhdri to hold it while he went in pursuit of the fugitives. As he set out from the capital the rebels retired to Mddi beyond Osh, and there held fast. Khuddy^r advanced against them, and defieatnig their outpost of a a 22 ( 200 ) ibonsand men at Achi^ caphired all their chiefs, except Abdurrahm&n Kiri^hiz and 8. T. Isr&r Cull Kapchdk, who escaped with their followers and joined Khod4 Culi at Midi. Here Beg Muhammad Mingbdskf, Mirzi Ahmad Diut4rkhwdnch{, Syad Beg Eapchik, Sadie Beg Kii^hiz, and the Khoja brothers, Esh&n Kh&n Tora, Wall Khin Tora, and Kichik Kh4n Tora, with a number of others, held a consultation, and decided on retiring: with their artillery by way of Cafl&n Kol to Gulsha, and there holding outaud barricading the approaches. From this, as will be seen in the sequel, they all joined Y&kub Beg at Kishghar. Meanwhile Khud&y4r at Osh wrote as an humble servant to Muzaffaruddin, reporting the aspect of affairs and awaiting orders* The Bukbiri Amir, uneasy at the proximity of the Russians and unwilling to be embroiled in the troubles of his neighbour, summoned Khudiy&r back to Ehokand, and setting him in the government there, returned to his capital by Khujand, whence he sent a minatory message to the Russian General at Tashkand demanding his evacuation of the city and retreat to Chamkand. But the Russian General, on the contrary, with the consent of an influential Bom. party of the citizens, who on the SOth September presented him with an address of congratulation and an appeal to be taken under the protection of the Ak P&dsh&h or Cz&r, annexed the whole territory of T&shkand to Russia for ever. Its limits are on the east Isigh Kol=«'Hot Lake,'' and Uch Eurghin=<' Three Forts'' to the Syr Daryi or Jaxartes ; on the north, the same from Ila to Akmasjid and Fort Raim ; on the west, from the beginning to the end of the Syr Daryi with its left bank and fort of Ch&rdarra ; and on the south, the same extent along the Syr Daryi from beginning to end. Following this, in January 1866 came General Chemayefi"s unsuccessful expe> dition as far as Jizz&k to release the Russian envoys detained at Bukh&ri, and his retreat to the Syr Dary& below Chirchik. The rupture, accelerated by this hostile conduct of the Amir MuzaSSairuddin, led to the advance of the Russians under General Romanoflbki who, on the 20th May 1866, exactly a vear after the defeat and death of Alim Culi, gained his signal victory over the whole Bukh&ri host at the famous battle of Irj&r ; when he put the Amir to flight, routed his army in disorder, and captured all his camp and equipage. Following up this success, the Russians next bombarded Khujand and captured it on the 5th June. And so great was the immediate effect of their triumphs, that Khud&y&r voluntarily congratulated their General on the success of his arms, and declared himself the friend and ally of Russia. Or&tappa and Jizzfik were taken in the October following, and a treaty of friendship and protection was concluded with Khud&ydr; whilst Muzafiaruddin was warned to prepare for war, unless he restored the refugee Sultan Muriid, paid one hundred thousand Hid = six hundred thousand rupees (counting the tild at six) as war indemnity, and opened out his country to Russian traders. The subsequent negotiations with the Bukh&r& Amir not proving satisfactory led to the active prosecution of the war, to his own speedy subjection to the Russian protectorate, and to the occupation by Russia of the sister city of Samarcaqd in August 1868— a position which brought them into direct contact with the little States of Saritakin, Darwiz, and Shighii&n on the upper waters of the Oxus ; and into communication with their Tajik populations, cognate in birth and speech, and confederate in creed and polity, with their Aryan brethren of Badakhshan and Wakh&n and the other petty independent hill States on the southern slopes of the Hindd Kdsh Range down to Kabul on one side and Kiishmir on the other. A fiftct of no small importance, and notable, too, as bringing Russian influence beyond the pale of Uzbak and Tirtir polity in Central Asia into the sphere of the great Aiyan element of the Indian continent south of the mountains. Whilst this succession of events and transfer of governments was taking place on the west of the Bolor Range, a hardly less important revolution had been brought ( 201 ) Rom. to a more bloody dose by the subetitation of a new government in the country to ita east. Here Russia had already acquired a high degree of political influence since her establishment at Almati Vemoe in 1858^ and subsequent advance in 1860 to Piskak and Tokmak (the latter of which is now a flourishing Russian town with 400 mnjii settlers brought from Moscow); and later again by the extension of her frontier to the N&rin and establishment of her outposts at only eight days^ march from the capital of E&shghar; an influence which was favoured by tbe concessions of a commercial treaty with the Chinese government, according to the stipulations of which Russia acquired the right to establish trade agencies and build factories in the towns of Eastern or Chinese Turkistan — a privilege, however, which was very suddenly invalidated by the revolution that now in the course of sequence claims our notice. The insurrection of the Muhammadan Chinese, called Tungini, which broke out in the province ot K&nsdh in 1862, and which has in the space of a single decade shaken the stability of the ancient government of the celestial empire to its verv base is, I believe, referable to that vague and ill understood revival of Islam of which so many instances have attracted attention in widely separated parts of the Muham- madan world during the last fifteen years ; and may be counted as a result of the fanatic obstructiveness of the faith to the advancing civilization and knowledge of the age. P. Be this as it may, the religious insurrection commencing at Silir or Hochow, in Kinsuh, which was the principal seat of the Tungini sectarians, spread very rapidlv over the subordinate governments of Zdngh&r and K&shghar, in which the Tungani— formerly, even against their Khoja co-religionists, the most loyal, and now the sole rebel**formed an important portion of the imperial troops holding the seve- ral frontier towns. The cities of Zungh&r and the eastern cities of K&shghar were the first to join in the rebellion, and almost simultaneously to overthrow the consti- tuted authority by the massacre of the Budhist Chinese officials and residents for the usurpation of the government under Muhammadan leaders of the Khoja or Priest class. So rapid were the successes of these fanatic insurgents, and so weak was the authority of the Chinese governors, that by the end of 1862 all the eastern cities of Kishghar from C4m61 or Kb&mil to Aksd had thrown off the Chinese yoke and msssacred, or subjected to the jazfa or '' poll-tax,'^ all the Budhist officials, traders, and nomads. The movement did not spread with equal rapidity^ nor with a like com- bination in action in the western cities or Altyshahr where, though the population was more Muhammadan, it was less Chinese, and consequently had no common inter- est in the movement worked by the Tung&ni who, as belonging to the Siif/i sect, were rather contenmed by the orthodox chdrjfdH of the western States; though when in the following year the outbreak was precipitated in Y4rkand by the action of the Chinese governor there, the Musalm^ns generally were not backward in joining the gkazdi against their infidel rulers. In these western cities under Khokand influence discontent with the Chinese rule had been rapidly on the increase since the revolt of Wall Khin in 1867, owing to the intrigues of the Andij&nis through their commercial agents. At Yirkand the Chinese Oovernor over the Musalm&ns in the city, Afridun Wdng of Turf4n, who had held the post since ten years before the attack by Til& Kh&n, became jealous of the .power and growing independence of these Khokand consuls, and on Uie arrival of a new agent with thirty followers from that State in 1869 after the resumption of commercial relations in the preceding year, he caused their assassination by the Amb(fLn on the representation that they were circulating seditious papers inciting the Musalmins to rise and expel the Chinese. The internal troubles of Khokand at this time did not admit of the Khdn taking a revengeful notice of this hostile act, but the Andijan interest at Khutan was brought to bear against Afridun Wing, and he was deposed in favour of Rnstam Beg { 202 ) 'of that place, who had boaght over tlie Ambin with a bribe of eight eidrak of gold^ P. equal in weiglxt to a hundred and sixty pounds. Afridun W4ng^ on being deposed, returned to his home at Lukchun, near Torf&n^ and there joining the nascent Tungani revolt came back to Kucha, and took an active part in setting Bishuddin Khoja at the head of afikirs there. He subsequently submitted to Y&kub Beg, who squeezed faim of all his wealth, for he was one of the richest men in the country, and made him reside at K&shghar ; where the decrepid old man died, and left two sons in poor cir- cumstances. Afridtin was thoroughly Chinese in his interests, and aided Rilshuddin to found a Tung&m government under Khoja leaders of his own family at Aksd, Y&rkand, and Khutan, in opposition to the Khokand party ^o had got possession of K&shghar. But his efforts failed owing to the jealousies dividing the Tung&ni^ the Khoja, and the Musalm&n Chinese officials parties, and he finally succumbed td Yikih Beg, who rose on ruins of this house divided against itself. Rustam Beg on assuming his dear bought office at once commenced to recoup bis outlay, and squeezed the people by severe punishments^ fines, and exactions of sorts. They endured his tyranny for three months, and then rose in riot to expel him from ihe city. He at once called in the aid of the Amb&n, who marched a party of Chinese soldiers from the adjoining Yingisfaahr Fort into the city ; but quiet was not restored till Rustam Beg was deposed, and Ny4z Beg, a candidate put forward by the citizens, was appointed in his place. Following this, an ill-feeling arose between the Musalmin Tungani and their Budhist Khitiy comrades in the garrison, and many quarrels broke out amongst them. Just at this time, too, the Amb4n received secret tidings of the Tungini mutinies in the eastern cities. He kept the news secret for some time, and then his communications with the head-quarters at Ila being cut off by the rebels, he held a private council of his principal officers, and by the consent of all it was decided to disarm all the Tungani troops. Some delay and hesitation occurred in carrying out the decision, and in the interim the intention was secretly conveyed to the Mdh Ddl&y who commanded the Tungani by one of his spies ; and he determined to be before- hand with the Amb&n, and set a strict watch upon his palace. > Shortly after, a second private council was held by the Amb&n, and the M4h D&l&y, learning that the morrow had been fixed for the disarming of his men, imme^ diately took his measures to frustrate the' decision. Accordingly, that same night he summoned a number of his officers privately to his quartera, briefly informed them of the Amb&n^s design against them, and told them to go off to their quarters and at once inform their men of the part they were to act in the plan he had arranged to prevent its execution, and to seize the government for themselves. Having done this, he left his quarters with some 50 men, surprised the Khit4y guard sleeping outside the fort gate, and cut the throats of aU as they lay more or less drugged with opium. By this time he was joined by about 400 others who, according to instructions, had foUowed in his track, and he then set fire to the gates and dispersed them inside the fort to rouse the garrison with the alarm of fire. The Khit&y and Tung&ni troops were quartered together in the outer part of the fort, whilst the inner part or citadel was occupied by the Amb&n and principal officers and their Khit&y guards. And this inner fort was shut off from the outer by walls and gates of its own. As the garrison in the outer fort was roused by the alarm of fire, the men, Tung&ni and Khit^, came running out of their quarters together, but for very different purposes. The Tnng&ni were afi armed, and each now, according to his instructions, slew his Khit&y comrade as he issued from his quarters. > By this stratagem the Tungani killed 2,000 of their Khitay brethren before the day dawned, when those in the inner fort^ being roused by the tumult, attacked and expelled them from the Y&ngishahr. The Mih D41ay and his mutineers then entered the city just as the gates were opened with the rising sun, and with white scarves tied round their heads and droop- ing in lappets over the shoulders dispersed through th6 bazars^ calling oi^ the ( 208 ) F* pec^la to join tfa* gU^ md slay the infidd Khitfy. The oity chiefo^ fearing the vengeanoe o£ the Chineee reinfotoemenis as on previous oocasions of revolt^ attonpted to qoell the tumolt and restore order^ but the mob of ruffians^ gamblers^ dronkaidsi and others who were more or less in debt to the Chinese traders^ rushed all over the city and with their knives killed every Khit&y man, woman, and child they could lay hands on, and plundered their houses. So rapid was the work of tiieir destmotioni that by noon not a Khit&y was left alive in the city, except a few who had found concealment in the houses of Musalmin friends* From the city the mob, joining the Tungiuf mutineers, issued into the bazar connecting it with the Yangishahr, five hundred yards to the west and wholly occupied by Khitdy and foreign traders and settlers, and there by sunset completed tbe r61e of death com- menced in the morning. And thus on one of the hottest days of the jear, 2Srd Sa/ar 1280 H. (10th August 186»), perished some 7,000 Khit&y souls. Tbe Ambin meantime barricaded the citadel in Yingishahr, and during the nert three days with his Khit&y troops drove the TunglLni mutineers from the outer fort in which they had regained a footing. The Tungim, now without a leader, made a wealthy and saintly divine of the city, one Sahibz4da Abdurrahmin, their king, and appointed the merchant Nyas Beg, the reeently^lected governor, to be his iMa^r. They next sent off messengers with the news of their success to the adjacent dties, and then set to organize a force to besiege the Khitiy shut up in the Tingishahr citadel. On receipt of this intelligence, the cities of Khutan, Y&ngi Hiso&r, Kishghar, and Aksu all rose simultaneously against the Khitiy; and within six weeks had massacred them all, of both sexes and every age, except the garrisons which held out in the forts ; and then they eadi and all became the scenes of tbe most rampant discord and contention amongst rival pretend^v to the government till T&kiib Beg came and reduced them all one after the other to his own subjection. The siege of the Yingishahr at Y&rkand had lasted three months, when Khoja Is&from Ktichi and Khoja Mahmfid from Aksd, with others who had been ousted in the struggle for ascendancy in those places by more powerful leaders, arrived at the city with a numerous following of adventurers. They were welcomed by the benegers, and a succession of unsuccessful attempts were made to take the Yingi- shahr by assault. Finallv, after six months' si^^, having blown down a considerable portion of the outer wall by mining and powder, the besiegers stormed the breach and massacred the defenders without quarter. The Ambin had assembled his family and principal officers in the reception hall of his palace, and on finding all was now lost emptied his pipe on a previously laid train of powder at his feet, and perished with them in the explosion. On this the soldiers rushed to the powder magazines, one on each side of the citadel square, and setting fire to them disappeared in the ruin of their explosions. For three days similiff upheavals of concealed mines continued to scatter the limbs and heads of the defenders amidst the disturbed mass of ruin. The Khitiy being now entirely destroyed, the Kuchi and Aksu Khojas soon Suarreled with Abdurrahman as to the cont/ol of the government on the grounds of lie victory having been won by them ; but the Tungini ralljring round the king they had set up drove the Khojas from the city. After a while these Khojas were joined by reinforcements from Aksu under Khoja Burhinuddin of Kdchi, and through his mediation Abdurrahman consented to a division of the government; the Khojas to rule in the city, and the Tungini to hold the Yingishahr Fort. This arrangement lasted for two months, when the Tungini went to attack Khutan, but were repulsed, fi^will be related hereafter. Whilst these changes were occurring at Yirkand, another somewhat similar course of events was being enacted at Kishghar. Here the Chinese Hakim Beg, or '^ District Oovernor,'' over the Musalmins was Cutldgh Beg of Kuchi. He had Tecentlyj owing to the stoppage of funds to pay the troops from China, by order of the Ambitt^ imposed a new tax of 2 per cent, on all sale transactions in the city. a 23 ( 204 ) The people^ {retting imder this impoeition^ sent some AktaghMc agents to Ehokanct complaining of tHe violation of the trade regulations established by the Ehan^ and seeking relief from the exactions of their oppressors. Alim Culi was at the time too much taken np with his own troubles to heed their request^ and meanwhile intelligence of the Y&rkand outbreak arriving, the people rose in revolt and massacred all the Ehit&y traders and residents in the city. The Amb&n, without attempting to quell the tumult in the city, shut himself up with his troops in the Yangishahr, five miles to the south of it. On this the Aktfighluc chiefs of Artosh called in the aid of Sadie B^, Eiighiz, to restore order. He hastened down with his men, and joining them ^as put in posses- sion of the city ; but he and his men being more intent on plunder than on the restoration of order were soon expelled the city by the Governor CAtlugh Beg, acting in the interest of -the Chinese with the support of the citizens, who were already dis- gusted at the numerous murders and horrid barbarities perpetrated on their fellow co-religionists by the Kirghiz chief and his savages. Sadie now was joined by the Tungini who on the first outbreak of the rebellion had escaped from the Yangishahr and joined the rioters, whilst a number of their less fortunate brethren were seized and killed by the Amb&n. With the aid of these troops he made several unsuccessful attempts to seize the city held by Cutiugh, and after three months of desultory and ineffectual skirmishing in the suburbs he sent an envoy to Alim Culi, informing him of the state of afiairs and asking for a Khoja to come and take the country. Alim Culi was at this time engaged in strengthening the defences of T&shkand against the impending attack by the Russians, and in reply to the appeal of Sadie Beg sent off Buzurg Khan Tora, the heir of Jahangir, to recover the throne of his ancestors; but as he could spare no troops to send with him, he appointed Ydktib Beg KoMegi to accompany him as General and raise what force he could. Buzurg Kh&n and Y&kub Beg with AbduUa Pdnsad, Muhammad Culi Skagkdwal, and Khoja Kalin Huddychi, left T&shkand towards the end of November 1864, and at once repaired to Khokand, there to complete the final preparations for their enterprize. At the capital they were joined by some officers who had been left behind by Khud&y&r, and a few other adventurers, and towards the close of the year set out for K^hghar. At Osh a few others joined and raised the number of the whole party as it left Andijan to only 68 individuals. From Osh they took the road of the Tirik Dawan, and in fourteen days reached Mingyol on the out- skirts of K&shghar during the first days of the new year 1866. Sadie Beg, after he had sent off his envoys, repented of having asked for a Khoja, and now sought to turn Buzurp^ back, hoping soon to take the city without the aid of his weighty name, but the citizens and villagers hearing of his arrival flocked out to welcome him. On this Sadie raising the siege retired to Sarman, and sent forward his brother, K&dir Beg, to welcome the Khoja, and with a proffer of his service to invite him to the entertainment he had prepared for him. Buzurg and his party accord-^ ingly came to Sarman, and next day set out for the city with the Kirghiz chief. Here Cutiugh Beg opened the gates to the Khoja, and surrendering: the city installed him in the Orda, or ** Palace,'' as king amidst the acclamations of the citizens. Buzurg Kh&n on thus easily gaining possession of the city committed the reins of government to Ydkub Beg, and himself true to the character of his class at once launched into a succession of pleasures and debaucheries. On this Sadie finding him- self ousted from all participation in the government became diHcontented, and on the fourth day after the installation of Buzurg withdrew with his men to Y&ngi Hiss&r, and setting up as claimant of the throne called the Kirghiz in the hills to the west and the P&mir to rally round him. Meanwhile Y&kub Beg settled the city, and retaining most of the old officials in their poets under Andijini supervisors^ secured the Tungfini for the service of the Khoja, and raised a small force from amongst the Andij&ni, Afghdn, and other residents in the city. Whilst so engaged -•-twenty days after the defection of Sadie Beg, and about the beginning 6i ( 20& ) F. Febmary'-a small party amTed from Tishkand with news of Alim Calf s victory over the Bnssians at Ayc&n, and brought with them 40 heads of the slain. These were exhibited in the main bazars^ to the delight of the popolace and gratification of the chiefs^ and were the means of soon raising Y&kub Beg^s army to some 8^000 men. Sadie Beg meanwhile had raised a force of as many Kirghiz^ and with them marching against K^ghar invested the city and demanded its surrender. He fixed his head-quarters at the shrine of Hazr&t P^sh&h, a few hundred yards from the south-eastern walls^ and wit^ sacrifices of horses and sheep devoutly sought the aid of the saint against the interlopers. On this Buzurg sent out Y&kuh Beg to disperse the besiegers. After a slight skirmish he drove ofi^ their detachment posted in front of the Eum Darw&za^ or ^' Sand Gate/' and fixing his head-quarters at the shrine of Syad Jal&luddin Bnghd&di^ a few hundred yards o£P to the south and close to the shrine occupied by Sa set' fire to his palace and with his family and dependents perished in the flames. Yikdb Beg, informed of the conflagration, at once came out to the assaulty bub fiiBt sent Abdulla with a number of tonekiy or '^ interpreters,^' to offer the garrison quar- tieron unconditiofial surrender. These shouted out their message under the walls, and were answered by Tokhta from a turret over the gate ; and presently the Kho D&I&y with \km son and three daughters and a number of attendants surr^dered to Abdulla and received protection. But in the confusion the troops assembled for the assaiiit— >>- Andijinri, Eivghizi Kapoh&k, Badakhehi, and AfgbAn — all rushed in to the work of destructieni and during eight daytf massacred, sacked, and plundered. Threer thousand Bihit&y families, however, escaped^ and on aeceptTng Islim were granted <}uarter; After this guaide were set at the gates and ordet was restored. ( 210 ) The fort was now cleared of nearly 4,000 corpses, and a mosque and orda P. were at once raised by Khit&y labour on the ruins of the Chinese temple and Amb&n's palace respectively. Before their completion Y&kub Beg entered the Y&Dgishahr, and establishing himself in the arda, performed prayers and a complete recital of the Kur&n in the new mosque. He celebrated his success by a grand feast to the poor, and by marrying the beautiful eldest daughter of the Kho Diliy, whom for her sake he treated with marked favour. He restored him to the command of his Khit&y, now called Ydnffi Musalmdn or new Musalm&n, and settling them in a separate fort gave him the rule over their families with the power of life and death amongst them. The Kho D&Uy still held his position and privileges when we saw him and his people during our stay at Kdshghar. They are all enrolled in the service of the present Amir Muhammad Y&kub Kb&n, but are rarely employed on other than sentry duty, and are not trusted generally. Indeed, it is suspected that in secret they still practise their Budhist religion. About the end of September, following the festivities by which this success was celebrated, the outpost officer at Mingyol reported the advance of a large party from Khokand over the Tirik Daw&n Pass towards Kdshghar, and headed by Khudi Culi Kh&n, Kapchak, and many notable chiefs. On this Y£kdb Beg sent ESshan Mahmud Kh&n, the Shekhululam of the city, out to Mingyol to ascertain whether they came as friends or foes, and with the brief ultimatum : ^^ If friends, they are welcome. If foes, I am ready to fight them/' The high priest found the party consisted of Khudi Culi Eh&n with his Kapchdk and Kirghiz, nearly 1,000 men ; and that he was accompanied by Beg Muhammad Mfngbd^ki, Mirza Ahmad Da9t4rkhwdnekiy Eshan Kh^u Tora, Tora Kaldn, Wall Kh&n Tora, his brother, Muhammad Yunus Shaghawul, Muhammad Nazar Beg Ko^hbegi, Cosh Panodncii, and the DddkAtodis Janak, Miilan and others, and Umar Culi Huddychi, together with Naib Nabbi Baksh Jamddar, and a number of Pansad officers and court officials, such as Hakim Beg, Turdi Culi, Syad B^gf Abdurrahm&n, Isa, and others. There were with them, besides, Akram Khan, the son of the Mir of Hiss&r, and some sons of the Mir of Or&tappa. He learned that they had all rebelled and fought against Khud&y&r Khan, by whom they had been defeated at Sufi Kar&wal with the loss of their artillery, and the capture of most of their troops ; and that they had fled to .To^&y Bishi, and thence come on by Nacara Chaldi and Ulugchdt to Mingyol, where they awaited what Ood should provide for them. Ydkub Beg had already sent out ample provisions to Mingyol by way of welcome to his countrymen and former associates, and the SAeiAulisldm singing his praises advised them all to come in, tender submission, and offer service. Khuda Culi ELhan with his followers hesitated ; but the Kboja brothers with Mirz& Ahmad, Muhammad Yunus, and the sons of the Ehokandi Mir, and most of the others join- ing the high priest repaired with him to the presence of Y&kub Beg, and congratu- lating him on his success declared themselves his devoted servants. Two days later the Kirghiz an^ Kapch&k left at Mingyol, hearing of the favour- able reception of their fellow refugees, and seeing no other alternative than submission, seized their Kh&n, and bringing him before Y^kub Beg, apologized for their hesitation, and begged to be enrolled in his service as the others had been. Their request was acceded to, and they were welcomed with a feast and robes of honour. Y&kub Beg, now strong with the accession of this force, dismissed the Badi^hshi army to its home, and allowed the commandant to carry away with him the corpse of Hamrah Kh£n from Yangi Hiss&r. Three weeks later, about the end of October 1865, Mir Bihi, the Dddhhwik of Y&rkand, reported his inability to hold the place owing to the intrigues of the Tungani in the Yangishahr. Ydkub Beg on this decided to go and settie the place himself, and dragging the careless Buzurg from his absorbing pleasures in the city, appointed Cosh Kapch&k ParwdncH his own locum tenens in the Yangishahr; and taking the Khoja with him set out with a strong force of Andij&ni, i^id the ( 211 ) P. Tungini amnestied after the -Ehduaric fight; having first got the blessing of the SkekhulUlam Esh&n Mahmud Eh4n. Y^kub Beg had early made a special friend of this most important Church dignitarj^ who was one of the original party coming over from Khokand. ^hen Y&ktib Beg with the force going against Y&rkand arrived at Y&ngi Hiss&r^ he discovered reasons to doubt the fidelity of the Tung&ni contingent. He^ consequently, at once disarmed them of four cannon, 100 iyfi, 200 spears, and 4fOO swords, which they had brought with them to the Khdnaric fight, and stored them all in the fort there, and then, taking them along with his army, camped at Eizili. Here the Kirghiz and Kapch&k under Sadie Beg, in connivance with Buzurg Eh4n, plotted to assassinate Y^kdb Beg. Their design was discovered and imme- diately disclosed to the intended victim by AbduUa Pdnsad, his trusty adherent. Y&kub Beg was at the time able to do no more than iacrease the vigilance of his self-guard, and to summon the chiefs of the conspirators and bind them to good faith by oath on the Kuran. He then marched on by Eok Rab&t to Yarkand, where he pitched his camp with the Tung&ni in rear, at a mile to the south of the Ydng^shahr, near Chinibdgh. On their way to camp these disarmed Tungdni interviewed some of their brethren from the Y&ngishahr, and immediately proposed to them a night surprise upon the camp; but to allay suspicion advised a pretence of submission without delay. The TuDgani leaders, accordingly, shortly repaired to the camp, and presenting rich ofierings, humbly apologized for their conduct, and swore devotion and fidelity to the Ehoja, and promised to surrender the city and fort to Y^kub Beg on the morrow. Thus deceived by their professions, the Koshbegi robed and dismissed the deputation, and the camp, careless of security, omitted the precaution of outiying pickete. At midoight the Tung&ni issued from their fort, surprised the enemy's camp, and setting fire to some of the tents, slew many and dispersed the rest in utter con- fusion. Y^kub Beg and AbduUa with a fev^ devoted adherents, after a hard hand to hand fight, in which they were all wounded, cut their way through the crowd of assailants and escaped to a place of shelter hard by ; whilst the Tung&ni, joined by their disarmed brethren, plundered the camp and at daylight returned with their booty to the Ydngisbahr. Y^kub Beg now sent Abdulla with a few men to rally the scattered army, and he returned in the course of the day with some 800 bootless and half-clad fugitives, of whom an equal number from difierent quarters had already gathered round their chief to the sound of bugles blown in all directions around. The Eirghiz and Eapchdk, who had held by Buzurg Eh&n, now wished to separate, but Ydkdb Beg appealing to the Ehoja pointed out the folly of the step and the certain ruin it would bring upon him, and persuaded him to hold on for the capture of the city. They consequently, though with reluctance, rejoined and together returned to the origin'al camp ground, and trenching the position awaited events. A few days later the Tung&ni, having gained over the city chiefs to their side, marched in and raising the populace expelled Mir Babd and his few followers, and plundered the treasury. They then opened fire from the walls upon the E&shghar camp. On this the Eirghiz and Eapchdk, in connivance with Buzurg Eh^n who from the commencement, through pique at his secondary position, had done all his little abilities enabled him to thwart the operations.of his General and rival, and whose conduct was the cause of the failure of this enterprise, again bodily deserted the camp with their leader Sadie Beg. Y£kub Beg, however, managed to reassure and win them back, and next day led tiiem in person to the assault of the city. Abdulla leading the advance set fire to and forced the south gate, and driving the Tung&ni out of the city back to the shelter of their fort, reinstated Mir B&bd in the arda with a small garrison, and rejoined Ydkdb Beg who, to prevent complications and a sack of the city, had withdrawn the force back to the camp. a 25 ( 212 ) Bozarg now no longer concealed bis jealousy and displeasnre^ and with the aid of Sadie Beg and his Kirghiz formed a rivai party. Y&kub Beg on his own part, ever on the watch, forthwith secretly despatched Abdolla with only 20 men, all chosen adherents, to go and secure the city for him against surprise. He then appointed Nar Muhammad ParwdncAi to the command of AbdulWs contingent, and set to win over the Tung&ni in Y&ngishahr who were already intriguing with Bozurg. They met his advances promptly and with equal cunning, and on the suggestion of the go-betweens sent some messengers with offerings to express their contrition for past deeds, to beg forgiveness, and offer faithful service for the future. Y&kub Beg received their deputies with marked attention, and assuring them of his good-will and clemency, robed and dismissed them to bring in their leaders. These very shortly arrived in his camp, and vowing all sorts of fidelity and service, took their leave with profuse expressions of gratitude for their very handsome reception. But they no sooner returned to their own fort, than they set to plot treachery with the rival party in camp. A day or two later, they moved out of Yangishahr to the shrine of Hazrit Muhammad Sharif, and pitching tents and spreading carpets invited Yilkub Beg to a feast there to ratify their compact of fidelity and service. Fully aware of the risk of assassination, Yitkub Beg saw no way of escape ; so he adopted the bold course, and committing himself to Ood's keeping and the protection of his prophet, set out with 20 attendants to meet his hosts, who received him with every mark of honour and presented a rich array of gifts. Buzurg Kh&n now seized the opportunity of Ydkub Beg^s absence to carry out his own designs, and as he left the camp secretly summoned Sadie Beg to his own tent. He arranged with him that he was to stay behind so as to check or impede the progress of Y^kub Beg in case he pursued, whilst he himself with Beg Muhammad Mingbdaki and 2,000 Kirghiz and Kapchdk at once set out for K^hgbar. His flight was immediately reported secretly to Yakub Beg just as he rose from his devotions at the shrine of the saint, and he maintaining his composure took the first opportunity to leave his hosts and hurry back to camp. Here he collected and reassured the remaining troops, and despatched Nar Muhammad with Abdulla's contingent in pursuit of the deserters. He overtook them at Tazghun and captured some stragglers, but Buzurg and Beg Muhammad with most of their force escaped him, and seizing the Y&ngishahr of Kashghar established themselves in Yikub Bog's quarters there. These from the first had been a source of menace and displeasure to Buzurg who, on their capture, now assumed the direction of the government himself, and denouncing Y&kub Beg as a rebel, appointed Beg Muhammad as General in his place. And now the rupture between the Kkqja and the KoMegi became eomplete. Meanwhile the Tungdui at Yfirkand hearing of the flight of Buzurg, with whom they were in secret treaty for the surrender of Yarkand, and being assured by Yikub Beg that he had returned to Andijdn, forthwith tendered submission, and representing that they had been duped and were now without a head, begged he would appoint a Khoja to rule over them. Accordingly, Y&kub Beg appointed Kichik Khan Twa their ruler with Mir Baba as DddkAwdA, and establishing them in the city with a small garrison set out to recover his position at Kishghar. At Kizili he left his principal chiefs, such as the Tora Kal&n, Sadie Beg, Syad Beg, Hydar Culi, Mulli Turdi Culi, and Nabbi Bakhsh, to follow with the main army ; whilst he pushed on with a small party to throw himself into the city of Kishghar held for him by Abdulla. The defected Kirghiz and Kapch&k had meanwhile proclaimed Buzurg in the Yingishahr as Pddshah, and called on the people to join his standard as muridumuklkli$, or '' true disciples ;" and the Khoja on hearing of the approach of the rebel himself issued from the fort, and riding up to the city walls with a crowd of his followers appealed with loud cries to the citizens to come out and join him as their lawful ( 213 ) P. king. But Abdnlla^ supported by the influence of the SAekiulisldm, who in the city discountenanced any demonstration in fayour of the Khoja^ answered their calls with a volley from the walls^ and the mob not prepared for such a reception retired to the Y&Dgishahr. Next day Buzurg learning that Y^ktib Beg had arrived at Yapchang with only a small party, immediately sent out a force to intercept him on the way to the city. Y^kdb Beg with his handful, however, attacked them vigorously, and after a hard fight put them to flight up to the fort ditch with the capture of a few stragglers and horses ; and running tiie gauntlet of small mounted parties hovering on his flanks passed on to the city, where AbduUa with a deputation of the citizens came out to welcome him and renew their vows of devotion to his cause. In this interim the force left at Kizili fell out amongst themselves. Here Sadie Beg, true to his promise of impeding Y^kub Beg^s return to K&shghar, drew away Syad Beg, Hydar Culi Kapch&k, Uthm&n Kirghiz, and others into a plot to set up Esh&n Ebdn Tora, called Tor a Kaldn o^ ^' Elder Tora,'^ as king, and rebelling against Ydkub Beg to seize the Farrash fort and make it the base of their operations. The Tora Kal&a, however^ refused the honour forced upon him, and being joined by Muhammad Nazar Beg^ Nabbi Bakhsh, Turdi Culi and others, set them to watch the disaffected. On this Sadie Beg with his partizans and the Kirghiz and Eapchak contingent fled to Farrish, and recovering his old fort, collected his adherents there ; whilst the Tora Eal&n pushing on to Y&ngi Hiss&r with the artillery and the rest of the force^ sent word to Y&kub Beg of his own fidelity and approach to join him. On arrival at T&zghun, however, be was intercepted and brought to a stand by a force of 80O Kirghiz from Farr&sh under the lead of Hydar Culi; but Abdulla arriving op^rtunely with succour from K&shghar, drove off the enemy after a stiff fight, in which they lost 100 killed left on the field, 70 prisoners, and 200 horses captured. Abdulla having thus extricated the Tora Kaldn, escorted him to the city, where Y&kub Beg welcomed his arrival with feasting, drums, and music. Ydkub Beg now consulted his friend the Shekhulisldm on the aspect of affairs, and with his consent, installing the Tora Kal&n in charge of the city, set out with all his available force to besiege Buzurg in the Y&ngishahr. On the seventeenth day of the siege Beg Muhammad Mingbdshi^ with 17 other chief men of the Kapchdk, deserting Buzurg, escaped from the fort and fled to Sult&n Mur&d Beg, the younger brother of Khud&y&r Khan, at Marghinan. The Kh4n of Khokand, however, hear- ing of their arrival there, ordered his brother to seize them all ; and had the whole 18 summarily executed as worthless rebels. After their flight Ydkdb Beg succeeded in winning over the Kirghiz and Kapchdk, and on the fortieth day of the siege was put in possession of the fort by them. He at once seized Buzurg Kh&n, and deposing him from all authority committed him to an honourable captivity ; but at the same time warned him that any attempt at disturb- ance would immediately deprive him of the consideration due to his rank and lineage. Buzurg, however, shortly after the death of his brother Ehoja, the Tora Kalin, commenced intriguing with Sadie Beg for the recovery of the throne. Consequently Ydkub Beg sent him prisoner to Y&ngi Hissar, where he kept him for nearly eighteen months, and finally released him on his promising to go the pilgrimage. He deported him out of the country to Tibet, but the Elhoja, instead of going i6 Mecca, returned to his own home at Khokand in 1869 by way of Badakhsh&n and Bukh&ri ; and still lives there with his sons on the bounty of Khud&yar Khin. The further events have occurred too recently to form a proper subject i6t history. CHAPTER IV. VISIT TO THE THIAN-SHlN PLATEAU, THE CHADIEKCL LAKE, AND THE CHAKMlE EOBTS. By LieutenanUCoUmel T. E. Gordon. Db. Stoliozka^ Captain Trotter^ and I left Yangi-Shahr, Kilshghar, on the last day of the old year. Having been asked to take as little baggage as possible^ the local aathorities undertaking to provide us with lodging and food^ we started with the limited following of six servants and six baggage ponies. The first day's jonrney was to Bez&kh (26 miles)^ a village in Upper Artnsh. The road lay in a northerly direction^ past the city of K^shghar^ then through about three miles of cultivation, to a stony desert, rising gently towards a depression in the low range of hills which shuts in the valley of the Artush, a broad and far extending fertile plain, studded with villages showing signs of thriving population and careful farming. This well irrigated valley, watered by never-failing streams flowing from the Thian-ShAn and AULi Mountains, must produce wonderfully rich and reg^ular harvests. Two laige camel caravans were passed, going from Alm£ti (Yemo^) to Kishghar with Russian goods, of which cast iron cooking pots formed a considerable portion. The second day's journey was to Chung Terek (the big poplars), or Ak-Chirgh (white reeds), 20 miles ,- a Kirghiz village of mud huts and felt tents. We proceeded in a general N. N. W. direction, three miles across the Artush valley, to the mouth of the Toynn valley, up which the road lay the whole way. At nine miles we passed the Khitai, or Tessiktish Karawal (post), a smaU square fort used as a customs post, and occupied by a few of the K&shghar Didkhwah's men. This was the most advanced position held by the Chinese during their occupation of the country. We saw Kirghiz scattered over the whole valley, located wherever grazing was available for their flocks and herds. Many of their felt tent hamlets show signs of settled habitation in patches of cultivated and irrigated ground, probably attended to by the elders of the families, when the summer move to the mountain pasture lands takes place. The scenery at Chung Terek must be si9gularly beautiful in summer. On the third day, January 2nd, 1874, we reached Chakm^k, 21 miles further up the Toynn valley. The frozen Toyun was crossed and recrossed repeatedly as on the previous day. The hills dose in a short distance above Chung Terek, and at a commanding spot, 12 miles beyond, the Mirza (also called Terek and Pust) fort is placed. The valley opens out again above the Mirza fort, but to no great extent. It affords good g^razing ground to Kirghiz scattered all over it in tent clumps. Nine miles higher up is the Chakm&k fort. Mahmdd Beg, the Tiksobai (Chief of the Standard) in command, welcomed us warmly, and treated us most hospitably, accommodating and entertaining us in excellent quarters inside the fort. We continued in the same general direction on the fourth day, passing the Suyuk Karawal, eight miles up the Toyun, where it is joined by the Suyuk stream, flowing from the Suyuk Pass, distant about two days' journey, and said to be impracticable for horses in winter. The valley opens out a few miles above Chakm&k, and near Suyuk the hills become rounded and low. We proceeded up the Toyun almost due north from Sujuk and halted at Gulja-Ubhi (the ovis poli ground), tJso called Bulghum-b^shi (the Myncaria wood), 10 miles from Chakmik, a sheltered valley with abundant pasturage. We were accommodated in a capital felt tent furnished by the Commandant of Chakmdk. Our accompanying party of K^hghar officials, of whom the Mfrakhor Indm Khoja was the principal, was joined at Chakmdk by the Ydzbdshis, Mahomed Alum and Alum Kul, and by the Kirghiz YtSzb&shi, Mahomed Saleh^ with ten of his men. Mahomed Saleh is an Andijini Kirghiz, with 100 Chirik, Alii, and Andijini Kirghiz under him. ..J * V '^t 'i^-^ ^ 37. — Oves Polii Lyre homed Antelope, frozen specimens. '5' Ci^ ^ ^ V.^-' 'J »*' ::e^f? —Present of game and fniii in Kashghar ) . J> . Tl3 I ( 215 ) We reached Tonight Bela (the brown horse's back) on the fifth day. This is a grassy plain^ 13 miles from the Tomg&t Pass, leading over the southern crest of the Thian-Shin range. We passed through an old crater, which was pointed out by Dr. Stoliczka as verifying his pre^ viously expressed belief in the existence of an old volcano in this direction. On leaving the road and wandering over the grass covered undulating hills and long sloping flats to the west, we saw several flocks of ovis poli, but were not fortunate enough to secure any. The Torugit BeU ground was occupied by K^ra Kirghiz and Kaz^ks from the N&rin Valley with great herds of ponies, but they were moved some distance ofE to make way for our party. We saw about 800 of their horses being driven off as we approached our camp. We halted on the 5th to try our fortune after ovis poli. Large flocks were seen, but none were bagged by us. A black ibex was also seen. We went about 12 miles to the west, passing along extensive valleys and over flat-topped spurs and rounded hills, all covered with grass. On our way back to camp the Kirghiz were despatched in several directions and brought in two fine male and one female ovis poli. The countrv to the east of the pass appears of the same character. Laden animals can pass from Torugat Bela to the foot of the Terek pass, 26 or 80 miles to the east, by paths over the pasture grounds. The pasture, even in the depth of winter, is exceUent ; dry, but nutritious, as shown by the good condition of the ponies which feed entirely on it. In summer it must be very rich and abundant. We were told in the evening that the arrangements would only admit of another day's stay before returning to Chakm^k, and a visit to the Chidir KSl (the Sheet Lake) was planned. Accordingly on the following day, the 6th, we rode to the lake and back, 32 miles. We crossed the pass at 13 miles from Torugit Bela, and proceeded to a ridge 3 miles beyond, from which a splendid view of the lake, plateau, and surrounding mountains was obtained. The day fortunately was remarkably clear. There was no snow on the southern, and very little on the northern, side of the pass. The lake was entirely frozen over, and thinly covered with snow. A considerable amount of snow lay on the Tdsh-B6bit range and the mountains to the west. TheT£sh-Rob&t pass leading to Narin, three days' march from Chadir Kul, was however perfectly open, as we met four or five travellers who had crossed the previous day, and halted for the night at Chddir Kul. Several parties of Kaz^ks and K^ra Kirghiz were seen on the pass attending their herds of ponies grazing on the slopes. The Kirghiz Yuzbishi, who accompanied us, appeared to be on the best terms possible with them all. We were told that N^rin Kaz£ks and K^ra Kirghiz come over annually with about 6,000 ponies for winter pasture in the Amir's territories, paying revenue to His Highness. The ponies are stout and weU made. Both they and the men look enduring and active, and they must be hardy to a degree to stand as they do the cold of these heights in mid-winter. In the sheltered, Torugit Bela ground the thermometer sank to 26^ below zero outside, and 8^^ below zero inside our felt tent. The wind at this season on the heights is cutting in the extreme. Of this one of our party had veiy uncomfortable proof when in his intense eagerness to be the envied " first" to bag an ovis pou he undertook a long and slow " stalk" round the summit of a ridge about 14,000 feet and was frost-bitten on the fingers from contact with the rifle barrel before he got a shot. In the whole way from Kdshghar there is literally no ''hill ascent" till within a few hundred yards of the summit of the pass, and there it is easy and gradual. Grass is obtainable throughout, being particularly abundant between Chakmak and the pass. There is no scarcity of firewood to within 26 miles of the pass, and then a good substitute is always obtainable in the stunted furze and dry horse dropping to be found in the water-courses ana on the pasture grounds. Baron Kaulbars, in his description of the road, makes a strange error in saying tiiat for 67 miles from Childir Ktil towards K^tshghar no fodder is procurable. We returned to the Chakmik Fort on the 7th, 26 miles. On the way we saw Kirghiz loadins camels with blocks of ice cut in the Tojun for transport up aside valley, where they were located with their flocks, their supply of water being thus obtained tiU the approach of warm weather releases the frost-bound springs. We halted on the 8th. We were shown at Chakmdk the frozen carcasses of about 60 ovis poli and black ibex, stored as part of the winter meat supply for the garrison. The Toksabai presented us with nine splendid male specimens. All IumI been shot by the Elirghiz troops^ a26 (216 ) wfao^ jadgiiig from what ive mm of the party thai aooompanied tis^ ttiiiBi foDn yei^ valuable anziliarieB in mountain warfiBre in thoae r^ons. Mounted on powerful and aoti^« poniee^ whidi are peculiar^ well adapted by natoial training to continued hard Work and expoaute, these Kiighiz^ accustomed from birth to the roughest camp life, are admirably fitted for '' scenting and mounted infantry purposes. We returned to Kishghar on the lltii. Notwithstanding ttie intensity of the eoM, Captain Trotter^ B.E.^ succeeded in making a complete route surrey of the road, checking it by astronomical ol^rvations. He also made hypsometrical observations for the heights. Dr. Stoliczka took the fullest advantage of all the opportunities afforded for geological research and examination, the results of which he has recorded. I made a few sketchea. We were invari- ably well received by the soldiers and others whom we met during the journey, always getting a ready salutation of friendly respect from all. The Terek Pass on the road between KAshgar and N&rin-Almiti has loug been known to geographers as leading towards Khokand. We found '' Terek'' to be a name in frequent use in w direction we travelled. On the road to Chidir KtSl we passed Kichik Terek, Chunk Terek, and Terak Kurg£n, and were told that the forts on the other road from Kiehghar to Almiti are called Terek, also that the pass leading over the southern crest is similarly named. Baron Osten-Sacken in his account of the Trans- Ndrin country speaks of the " Terek,'' a tributary of the Nibrin stream. As thus applied in naming places, silver or white poplar appears to be the meaning of the word. There are small poplars in Kichik (little) Terek, large ones at Chung (big) Terek, and that tree is the most common one in the Toyun valley. Baron Osten-Sacken mentions the banks of the Terek being " wooded with poplar." The tree is doubtlessly common on the Khokan road. I go into tiiese particulars with ref erenoe to a question raised in a discussion on Central Asian O^eography, given in the Royal Geographi<^ Society's Proceedings, dated 25th of April 1870, as to the existence of a Terek Pass north of K^Mhghar, as well as one to the west. CHAFTSR V. VISIT TO MARltiBASHI. By Captain J. BiddulpL Thb Amir^B pennimon for my going to Manlbashi haTing been granted^ I left Yangi- shahr^ Kftshgfaar^ on Slet DeoemW^ aeoompanied by Mirza Sufee^ a PnnjabaBhi^ who had oideid to look after me^ atxd make all neceeaaiy arrangementB. I itBached ManJbaehi in seren mahshei^ the distance ftbm Kashghar bei% aboat 120 ttiiles; The road rand fo^ the entire distance along the conrse of the Kizzil Su or Kashghkr rivtTj which it crosees abont sixty-six miles firom lengi Shahf ; jPassing the villages of Barin^ Bandomar, Arowah^ and Tandoinal, we crossed by bridges two ocMisiderable streams^ the Terbuchek and the Chokanak^ flowing from the south into the Kizzil^ aboat three miles apart^ and darkness having eome on we halted for the night in the village of Sang. The Fnnjabashi knocked at the door of the first hease we came to, and demanded qnarters for the nights No difficulty was made, though of course we were unexpected guests, and I do not suppose any European h^ ever been seen in Sang. I was shown into the prindpal room where they were preparing for the evening meal before retiring to rest. The faiiuly teapot and soup kettle were on the fire, and a quarter of inutton hanging up, showed they were well oS for eatables. The room was clean and neat, affording a great contrast to a house of like pretensions in an Indian village. The walls were truly made, with neat niches to serve as cupboards, and in front of the fire-place was a wooden block sunk level with the ground to chop wood upon. A seat was made for me by the fire, and while the master of the house went off with the Punjabashi to get ready another room^i his wife produced melons and invited me to partake, and without any awkwardness or shyness kept her place by the fire, trying to keep up as much conversation as my limited knowledge of Toorkee would permit. My small dog, which sat up and begged, seemed to afford her great amusement, and she pulled a smidl boy out of Ibed to look at it. Leaving Sang earljr next morning we marched to lyzabad, a large tiiarket town, which gives its name to the flourishing district arouUd. At two miles frotn Sang we crossed the lyzabad stream flowing from the south into the Kizzil. Thils and the tWo sti-eatus crossed the previous day are united into one stream, called the Tainanyar, at no great distance froiii where I crossed them. Further on we passed the villages of Kaz&b. Kul and Shaptul; i weekly market is held at the latter. Beyond Fyzabad habitations became scarcer, and ceased altogether at Yangl Awat, forty- six miles from Kashghar. Beyond Yengi Awat the country is covered with low bush jungle and sand hills gradually changing to f otest, which becomes continuous shortly after crossing th6 Kizztd Su. Between lengi Awat and Maralbashi the only habitations met with are robats or post-houses at intervals of about fifteen miles, wliich are erected for the use of travellers : these are all of inferior construction with littie accommodation, one of them only consisting of a single room. As I took no tents with me 1 used the post-houses during the whole time of my absence from l^ashghar. The forest, though apparently of great extent, contains no fine timber, the only tree being the poplar (tograk) of stunted growth ; the undergrowth consists of a bush growing to a h^ht of M>out eight feet, a thorny bramble, and camel thorn, but Acre is no grass. The sou is f ( 218 ) very iry, alluvial, and coveied with a thin hard crost of soda, which crackles nnder foot at every step, and in which horses sink up to their fetlocks. The forest abounds with gazelles (antUopa ffutturosa) and hares, but is otherwise singularly wanting in animal life. For a space of about three quarters of a mile on each side of the river there are no trees, J>at in their stead a belt of thick high grass^ like what is known in Indian jungles as nurkut, growing to a height of from 8 to 12 feet. In this are tigers, wolves, the large deer called by the natives ^'buglut^' or ''maral,'' gazelles, foxes, and pheasants. This treeless belt is doubtless caused by periodical changes of the river bed of which there are many evidences. The fsil of the country to the eastward is little over 500 feet in 100 miles, according to aneroid readings taken daily. The river makes frequent turns and windings, and is level with its banks, so that a very slight flush of water would cause an overflow. The current is not rapid, and the river is frozen so hard in winter that loaded carts cross it without difliculty. It is crossed in summer by a bridge, which, however, I did not see, as I was able to save several miles by taking a short cut and crossing on the ice in another place. It varies from 70 to 100 feet in width. At one of the robats I had an interesting conversation with a traveller who was also putting up there for the night. He was an Aksu official, and had lately come from there with a presenta- tion horse for the Amir, and having delivered it was on his way to Khoten, where his brother was a Cazee. He told me there was a direct road from Aksu to Khoten, lying through jungle the whole way. He had visited Turfim, and said he had himself seen wild camels two marches to the east of it, and spoke of them as not being very wary, but smaller than domestic ones. I questioned him as to the existence of wild horses or asses in the desert eastward, but he said he had never heard of any. At Togha Sulookh, between 40 and 60 miles from Maralbashi, I stopped for a day's shooting. The only game I got was one very good specimen of the gazelle, or as the people there call it, djeran. The buck measures 2,7 ^ inches at the shoulder, and greatly resembles the common Indian gazelle, except that the horns are rather longer and curve outwards, tiie tips being turned sharply inwards towards one another, making a very handsome head. The next day on the march I was met by a Yuzbashi, who had been sent out to meet me. He had brought a pair of trained hawks with him, and as we marched we beat along keeping a few yards off the road, and took several hares with them. The hawks seemed to have no trouble in holding a full grown one, and the hare was often taken within SO or 40 yards of where he was put up, even among the brambles and bushes. The trembling of the hares when taken from the hawk was very curious, they seemed quite paralysed with terror, in a way I never saw before in animals of the kind; otherwise they were quite uninjured. Just as we got to our halting place for the night, one hawk was flown at a cock pheasant, which after a flight of 150 yards through the high trees, dropped in some thick brushwood : the hawk at once took perch above him, and we put up the pheasant again. In this way we had three flights, the pheasant escaping at last in a large extent of brambles, out of which we could not put him. This was in thick forest, but the men said if both hawks had been flown, they would have killed. It was curious to see the hawk each time perching g^ard over the places where the pheasant dropped, waiting for us, and watching every movement while we beat. The flight of the pheasant, when once fairly on the wing, though short, is so rapid that the hawk has no chance of striking him, but by perching lugh above him when down ia generally able to strike him as he rises a second time. Within four miles of Maralbashi the forest ceases, and the country is covered with long grass varied by occasional patches of scrub and swamp, much resembling the Bohilcund Terai. In this are dotted about small villages with patches of cultivation round them. The gprass jungle extends over a great extent of country, as well as I could gather, to the north-east, south-west, and eas^ard, being doubtless formed by the overflows and changes of course of the Kizzil and Yarkand rivers. The latter, I was informed, flows close to Aksakmaral, about thirty-two miles south-west of Maralbashi. Maralbashi, which is also known as Burchuk and Lai Musjid, contains about fifteen hun- dred inhabitants, and is at tiie junction of the road from Yarkand with the Kashghar and Aksu road. It contains a fort and small garrison of about 200 men. if 39. — Female Patients attending the Embfissy Hospital, January 1874. 40. — Bhokara and Khokandi Merchants. " * t I ( 219 ) The river Kbaal flows under the walls of the fort. Where I crossed it on the road from Kaehghar it is 100 feet wide^ level with the bank^ bat flows here in a greatly diminished stream about 25 feet wide between high banks^ 20 feet below the level of &e surrounding country. Its character was so altered that it was only after repeated assurances from the people that I satisfied myself !« to itB being the same stream. Close outside the fort is a palace lately built by the Ameer^ who often stays here on his leay to and from Aksu. The natives of the district are called Dolans : they have a more Tartar-like cast of coun- tenance than Tarkandees and ELashgharees, and are said to be distinguished by their fondness for music and singing. They are said to be descended from prisoners brought in the fourth century of the Hijra by Haroun Bugra Khan from Transoziana^ and forcibly settled in the oountiy between Maralbashi and Kuchar. In the jungle villages they excavate houses out of the ground^ making ffrass roofs level with the surface. The term Dolan is, I believe, applied generally to people oi mixed parentage. The present Hakim Beg of Maralbashi, Ata Bai, has the title of Mirakhor. He is an Andijani, about S5 years of age, with especially pleasant address, and seems much liked by the people, who all speak well of him. He was not in Maralbashi when I first arrived, having been away for 10 months with the troops at Orumchi and Manass. Four days after my arrival he returned with about 120 men. In Ata Bai's absence I was received by the Deputy Governor, Mulla Samsakh, who showed me every attention. The whole of the public robat was placed at my disposal, and all si^plies I stood in need of were furnished. On one occasion a man forced his way into my room and rather mdely demanded in Persian a turban as a present, similar to one I had given another man the day before. He told me that he was the MuUa Alayar, and a Cazee, and reiterated his demand for the turban in a very impudent way. I told him that I was not in the habit of giving turbans to people who asked for them, and he went away as abruptly as he had entered. I sent for the Punjabashi and told him that I did not l£ke people coming into my room without invitation, and would never give anything if I was asked for it. He said it should not happen again, and half an hour afterwards I received a message from the Mulla Samsakh, saying that I should not be troubled again, and that the Cazee had been severely beaten for his insolence. I was told after- wards that the punishment had given great satisfaction in the bazaar, where Mulla Alayar was disliked on account of his constantly asking people for things which they dared not refuse. At Maralbashi I found a Punjabee, named Oholam Ehadir, serving as a soldier. His son, a sharp lad of IS years of age, was sent over to stay in the robat to interpret for my servants. I told him I should like to see his father, who accordingly came over the same evening. I had a long and interesting conversation with him, in which he told me his history as follows : — '' Two years ago 1 1^ Sealkote with six ponies laden with merchandize to sell at Leh. When I arrived there I found no sale for my goods, so I resolved to come on to Yarkand, being advised to do so by Mr. Shaw. In crossing the Suget Pass all my ponies perished, much snow having fallen, and I lost everything. There was only my son, the boy you have seen, with me, and a servant who went mad with the troubles of the journey. Another trader helped me on to Sanju, and from there the Hakim forwarded me on to Tarkand. I was taken before the Dadkhwah, who was very good to me, and gave me two hundred tangas and some clothes, and told me I should go back to the Punjab in the spring. When I again went before him in the spring, he told me I ought to be married, lliat everybody in the country was married. I protested tbftt I had a wife in Sealkote, but he said that did not matter, and sent for a Mull% who was ordered to find me a wife, and I was married whether I would or no {" zubber- dustee'O- When all my money was gone, I went again to the Dadkhwah, who sent me to Eashghar, where I was recognised by Mirza Shadee who had seen me in Sealkote. I used to make medicines and gi?e them to people at Sealkote, and gave some to Mirza Shadee when he was there. I once gave some to Ata Bai, the Hakim here, and cured him. He gave me a robe and eight tangas for it. I was taken before the Atalik, who asked me what I oould do, I answered that I doctored people« He asked me if I would serve him, I dared not refuse, a 27 ( 220 ) 80 I was o&at off to this place wiih my son. Ghins were pot into oav hands, and we have been here ev^ since. Four months after mj arrival my wife was sent to me here from Yarkand. Zemindars are never taken to be soldiers, but all men who can give no aecoant of themselves are made to serve in the ranks. The Chinese used to take zemindars for soldiers. There is much petty theft here, but no burglary ; robbers are not daring as they are in India. The first time a man is caught stealmg he is led all round the bazaar and beaten^ the second time he has one ear cut off, the third time his right hand. I have never heard of a maa bein^ hanged for stealing. I have never seen a man hanged. The gallows are put up to frighten people. The punishment of death is only inflicted for murder. I remember two murders while I was in Yarkand. Everybody is married, even all the soldiers : when one dies, bis wife is given to another. All marriages are arranged by the Mullas. When a man wishes to get rid of his wife, he turns her out of his house, and has by the Sharyat to pay her ten tangas and g^ve her clothes. At the end of three months she may marry again. All eatables except mutton are very cheap. A great deal of beef and horse flesh is eaten. Taxes on produce are paid in kind to the extent of four per cent. People are constantly saying that there used to be much fun and wine drinking in the time of the Chinese, now there is none. The women especially are continually lamenting this. When people were very poor they used to sell their children to the Chinese for a yamboo (£17). If at the end of a year th^ could repay the yamboo, the children were returned to them ; if not, they were made ^ Kunjrees.' The bazaars were full of ' Eunjrees' in those days : they were killed when the Andijanees took the country. When yon arrived in Yarkand^ it was rumoured that seven or eight hundred sahibs had come ; that you had come in consequence of the visit of the Russian ISmbassy last year. I was in Kashghar tiiea and saw them. The Amir is much pleased at your coming. When Mr. Shaw first came he was placed in ' nuzzurbundee' (under surveillance) ; so was the sahib who came afterwards to larkand: now the Amir knows you better, and you are allowed to go where you like. Mulla Samsakh was much pleased at your mending his gun to-day (I had put the lock to rights), he says the sahibs are very clever. You saw what a thing it was, they know how to make nothing here.'' From Maralbaahi I went to Charwagh, a village of about 260 inhabitants, 14 miles on the Aksu road. I was especially anxious to shoot a tiger^ of whieh there were many about, but was unsuccessful in the sea of high grass with which the countiy is eovned. From footprints and skins, and judging by what I was told, there was no doubt that the tiger here is altogether a smaller animal than the Indian one. He seems also to differ considerably in his habits, prowling round villages at night, killing dogs and sheep, and behaving more like an Indian panther than a tig^r. The people spoke of men being killed by tigers occasionally^ but it does not appear to be a common occurrence. I had, however, good sport shooting gazelles and pheaasots which abounded, and I also saw the burgoots'^ or trained eagles kill gazelles and foxes. I was not fortunate enough to see them kill a wolf, though they were twice flown, but the animals on both occasions being in thick bush jungle and at a great distance the birds did not sight them. Their owners, however, spoke of it as an ordinary occurrence. When the jungle is not too high, they sight their prey at a great distance, and sweep up to it without any apparent effort, however fast it may be going. Turning suddenly when over its head they strike it with unerring aim. If a fox, they grasp its throat with the powerful talon and seize it round ihe muzzle with the other, keeping the jaws closed with an iron grasp so that the animal is powerless. From the great ease with which an eagle disposes of a full grown fox, I could see that a woU would have no bettor chance. Gazelles are seized in the same way^ except those with homa, in whieh case the eagle first fastens on to the loins of the aniinal, and watching his of^ortonity transfers his grasp to the throat, avoiding the horns. The burgoot, however, is not veiy easy to manage and requires the whole of one man^s care. Its dash and eourage are great, but if flown unsuccessfully once or twice, it will often sulk for the rest of the day. When it kills it ii always allowed to tear at its game for a little time ; the men told me that if prevented doing so while its blood was up^ it would very probably attack our horses. ,w m ^ • Tb» bearaooi «f AtkiDMW. ( 221 ) I WB8 enabled by sextant observations to fix the latitude of MaralbaBhi at 89° 46' 25" N. Nine miles to tbe north-east of Maralbashi is a huge black rook^ apparently basaltic^ with a treble peak^ rising to a height of some 2^500 feet above the plain. It is very rugged and quite inaccessible and forms a conspicuous landmark. It is ciJled " Pir Shereh Kuddum Moortaza Ali Tagh/' ''the Prophet Ali^s footstep.'' At its foot on the north side is a Mazar of great sanctity. The Aksu road runs within a mile of itj and travellers on catching sight of the shrine dismount and say a prayer. From Charwagh I was asked to come on to Tumchuk> some miles further on the Aksu road. As nothing had been said about it before leaving Ka^ighar, I decided not to do so^ and had reason to repent mv decision. On returning to Kashghar I was told that at Tumchuk are the ruins of a veiy ancient stone cily. It happened that on one occasion while shooting I came upon a hewn stone looking like part of an hexagonal pillar, but though I made several enquiries of the men with me^ none of them said a word about the ruined city. I also notaoed that the jungles contained many signs showing that at one time tiiere had been considerable cultivation. The oonntry round ManJbashi is well watered^ and the soil rich, and seems only to want population. The stages beyond Charwagh on the Aksu road were given me as follows by the Mulla Samsakfa, who told me that there was a robat at each stage : — 1. ChadirkuL i. Yakakuduk* 3. Zoidu. 4. Chilan. 5. Chulkuduk. I I returned to Kashghar on the 2Srd January in five marches from Maralbashi. The day before I left I paid a visit to Ata Bai in the f ort^ and thanked him for all the civility I had ejqmenoed, presenting him at the same time with a pair of binoculars and a pound of English powder. He presented me in return with a pony^ and the next morning a man overtook me on the march witji a trained hawk, also sent me as a present. No attempt was made at any time in any way to control or direct my moTements. I received whatever supplies I was in need of, and was treated by all officials with the greatest civility. 6. Soi Langri. 7. Oikul. 8. Kumbash. 9. Aksu. CHAPTEB VI. SIRIKOL, THE PImIRS AND WAKEAN. JBy Lteutenant-CoUmd T. E. Oordon^ Captain Bidbulph^ Captain Trotter^ Dr. Stoliczka and I left Tangi KiBsit, E^hghar^ on the 2l8t March. We were preceded by Resaidar Muhammad Afzal Ehin, who left the previous day^ travelling by rapid marches to Wakhin with a letter to Mfr Futteh Ali Shah^ the ruler of that countiy, informing him of our proposed visit. Muhammad Afzal reached Eila Fanj on the 2nd Apnl^ and rendered admirable service in preparing for our arrival. Our first day's journey was to Egiz-yar^ a large village on the veige of the plaiuj and the last in the inhabited country towards the hills. The road lay in a south-west^ly direction^ passing by several flourishing villages amidst extensive cultivation. Sis mUes beyond Egiz- yar the road enters the hills along the course of a feeder of the Yangi Hissir river. The plain preserves its even surface right up to the high ranges and ridges which stand out^ and rise from it, wittout any unddating or broken ground intervening. The appearance is strik- ingly like that of bold sea-coast scenery. The population (a verv scanty one) between this and Sirikol is entirely Kirghiz. They live almost wholly by their flocks and herds^ only attempting a little scattered cultivation in the lower valleys. They are the only people we observed using the horse generally in the plough^ oxen being employed in the plains^ and yaks in Sirikol.'^ The signs of approaching spring were showing when we left Yangi Hissir, but we found ourselves here almost back in the depth of mid- winter. All the streams were frozen^ and snow lay everywhere^ while fresh falls were frequent the whole way to Wakhin^ and during our stay there. We followed the Yangi Hissdr tributary stream by a good road up to the Easkasu pass (IS^OOO feet)^ which we crossed on the fourth day. Snow and ice made the passage of it, which is otherwise easy, extremely difficult. Our baggage animals at the descent had to be relieved by yaks. For about thirty miles from the plains the hills are bold and precipitous, rising abruptly from the valley, and they are almost entirely devoid of vegetation. Beyond tiiat, they become sloping and rounded, and in summer are covered with grass, affording excellent pasture. The descent from the Easkasii pass is to Chihil Oumbaz (forty domes), where we expected, from the name, to find some interesting ruins. The place however has evidently been so called from that number of Kirghiz day-brick domed tombs having at one time existed there. Now only one or two, in a ruined state, remain. A road branches off here to Yirkand, (distant one hundred and ten miles) passing down the Chirling valley and streanL In the time of the Chinese occupation this g^issage was watched by an oulpost. The road is unsuitable for any but smaU parties, from an absolute want of water on it for a distance of thirty-five miles. The streams from the southern side of the Easkasu pass and the eastern of the Torut unite here and form the Chirling, which flows into the Y&rkand plain. The fifth day^s journey took us over the Torut pass (13,400 feet), which, with the hills all about, was covered with an almost perfect sheet of snow, hardly a rock appearing anywhere through the surface, except on the crests and peaks. Willow and poplar trees are plentiful * N<^. — ^Houghing with hones has been a ciutom from the earliest tunes throuffhoat Eastern Torkestan. Captain Chapman made a aketeh of one which he saw at Eizil in Maxoh last— le passage. Holes cut in the wall-like sides of the rock, rising from the stream at one particu- larly confined place, show that in former times the passage was by means of a supported stage-way above the water. The attendant Kirghiz also mentioned this. There are several hot springs in this gorge, temperature about 116^. Birch, willow and gigantic juniper are plentiful in it. This day's march took us to the foot of a great elevated dope leading to the Chichiklik pass, plain and lake (14,700 feet), below the Y^mbuKk and Kok-Moinok passes, which are used later in the season on the road between Yangi-Hissir and Sirikol, to avoid the Tangi-Tir and Shindi defiles. As the season advances these passes become free from snow, while the defiles are rendered dangerous and difficult bv the rush of the melting snow torrents. From the Chichiklik plain we proceeded down the Shmdi ravine, over an extremely bad stony road, to the Sirikol river, up the banks of which we travelled to T^shkurgin, reaching it on the tent^ day from Yangi Hia^r. The total distance is one hundred and twenty-five miles. After leaving the K&>hghar plain we met with Eliighiz every day, and always found their felt tents prepared for our accommodation at each halting place, till within two days of TIshkurgin, when we entered the inhabited part of the Sirikol valley. The Kirghiz tents, having roof openings, admit of fires inside, and were thus infinitely more comfortable than our own in winter weather. The open part of the Sirikol valley extends from about eight miles below Tishkurgin to apparently a very considerable distance towards the Kunjut mountain rang^. Its average breadth is about tiliree miles. Cultivation is confined chiefly to the western slopes and is the work entirely of the Tijik inhabitants, who occupy a length of about twelve miles of the valley in the immediate vicinity of the fort The centre of the valley, through which the river flows, is used as a pasture ground, and gives rich and abundant grazing. The hamlets are at present in a wretched looking state, the houses having Mien to ruin during the late whole- sale banishment of the population to Kishghar. The ancient name of T^hkurgin is VirshidL The ruins show it to have been of square or rectangular form, with projecting towers, and built of rough unhewn stone. It does not appear to be of great antiquity, or very remarkable in any way. The Sirikolis are Shiah Muhammadans. They say that they have been in the valley for seven generations, as a distinct people, with a Chief of their own, and are the descendants of wanderers who came from all quarters ; from Badakhsh^n, Wakh^n, Shighnin, Hindost^n, Kunjtit and Turkist£n. Hence, as my informant (D^da Ali Shah, a Sirikoli Mullah,) said, '' The language peculiar to us is a mixture of what is spoken in all these countries.^' Persian however is also rooken bv them aQ. The men differ from the Elirghiz, Ozbegs, and inhabi- tants of Eastern Ttirkistan in having regular features and full beards. Their salutation of respect is made with the hand to the forehead, and not with the arms crossed in front, as among the Turks. D£da Ali Shah told me that the towers still standing in most of the hamlets were built for refuge and defence in the slave hunting raids, from which they had suffered eruelly for many years, and that he himself had witnessed no less than twenty of these attacks, which have entirely ceased since the establishment of the At^lik's rule. The valley is 10,260 feet above the sea^ The cultivation consists mainly of beardless badey, beans, peas, carrots^ and turnips. The domestic animals are camels, yaks, ponies, cattle, sheep and goats. The vaks ace smaller than the Thibetan species. A murrain carried off nearly all tiie oxen and cows a year ago, and fresh cattle are now being obtained from the plains and lower hiUs. Willows grow tibickly by the streams, and poplars appear in sheltered qpots close to the hamlets'. The valley extends to a great distance above the Fort, the riv^ (variously called T^hdiingbish, Tishkurgin, Sirikol, Tisnif and Yirkand,) which flows through i1^ taking its rise in the TighdAnghidi Filmir and Kunjtit range. Kirghiz occupy a 28 ( 224 ) it for pasture as far as the Eishghar boundary^ said by the Sirikol Oovemor to be twenty '^ tasV (about eighty miles) beyond the Fort. The T^hddngb&sh Pimir lies to the north of^ and parallel to^ the Little Fimir^ from which it is separated by a broad chain of hills joining with the Neza T^sh mountains^ and forming one unbroken range. The Sirikol valley^ after extending south for some distance^ bends towards the west^ and merges into the Tighdungbish Pimir^ which appears to be merely a continuation of the valley at a higher elevation. The climate of Sirikol is severe. Hassan Shah^ the present Governor^ who has had five ! rears' experience of it^ says, that there are only two seasons, summer and winter, the former asting but three months, the latter nine. The Sirikol river was of considerable size when we first crossed it, March 29th. The perfect clearness of its water, the steadiness of its flow (equality of volume day and night) and the severity of the cold then, showed it to be at the usual low winter ebb. It is said to be joined, about fifty miles further down, by the " Tong/' a stream as large as itself, if not larger. Should this be found to be correct, it is probable that the Y£rkand river may yet be regarded as rising in the Kunjut range instead of the K&rakoram, as hitherto believed. The T^gharma plain lies about three miles to the north-east of the Sirikol valley, and is of the same elevation. It is a fine open crescent-shaped flat, about twelve miles long by seven broad, extending from the south-west to the north-east^ and is well watered by a stream which flows through it from the north-eastern end an^ falls into the Sirikol river. This stream is plentifully fed by numerous springs in the middle of the plain. A few SirikoUs reside and cultivate in it, but the main portion of the inhabitants consists of one hundred Kirghiz families under their Chief Erumchi Bi, who permanently occupy the plain as a pasture land, for which it is admirably suited from the richness and abundance of its grass. This plain is separated from the Eizil-Art by a low rounded ridge, formed by projecting spurs from the opposite mountain ranges, the Neza-T^h to the west and the T&gharma to the east. The ridge forms the watershed between the two plains, the drainage on the Elizil-Art side flowing into the Little Eirakul lake, said to be about twenty miles distant. The Bardish pass leads from the watershed over the Neza T&sh range into the Akt&sh valley. The road over this pass is reported to be good. It emerges nearly opposite the Great Pimir. According to the accounts given by the Eirghiz, the Eizil-Art plain extends north from the T^gharma to the Alii, from which it is separated by a mountain range. The height of the two former is about the same, and that of the latter (the AUi) somewhat greater, but still considerably less than the elevation of the Pamir, judging from Fedchenko's description. That traveller mentions the preference given by the Ehirghiz to the AUli over the Vimir, by reason of lower height. The Eizil-Art is similar in character to the T&gharma plain — being well watered and abounding with grass and fuel. Its length is about one hundred and thirty miles. It is enclosed on the east by the mountain range extending, and sweeping round from the direction of the Eokand " Terek'' pass and the Alii, and on the west, by the Neza Tish. The Little Eirakul lake lies in the lower, and the Great Eirakul in the upper part of this plain. The former gives exit to the " Gez " stream, which flows eastward through the Gez pass, under the lofty and massive Muztigh (the Tigharma peak of the maps), into the Eish- ghar plain, and there joins some of the numerous branches or canals of the Eishghar river. The size of the lake is given as about fifteen miles in circumference. The Great Eiraki^l is stated to be about forty miles in circumference. It receives feeders from the AUi dividing range, and gives exit to the MurgULb^ which finds its way westward through the Neza Tish range, and flows towards Shighnin and Roshin. Four lakes on the Eizil-Art, and in its vicinity, were mentioned as giving rise to streams : the Great and Little Eirakuls already spoken of, the Bang Eul in the Siriz Pimir, and the Teshil Eul in the Alichor. The two latter furnish tributaries to the M with high walls^ and many towers^ situated on an eminence close to the river. We found the river about sixty yards broad and easily f ordable ; when in flood it is crossed by means of inflated skin rafts. We paid a visit to the Mir in his fort in the evening. We were received in a centre room^ with a roof openings and spaces on the four sides^ similar in style to the village houses^ but larger and higher. The entrance was^ as with them^ through the stables. The Mir received us attended by man^ of his people. There was no attempt at display of any kind^ the Mir being dressed in the plainest manner possible^ his people likewise^ and the room comfort- less in the extreme. Everything was rough except manners, which were exceptionally good. We observed what we had seen before with the '' Mir-Zdda'^ (Ali Murdin Shah), respect paid by kissing the hand ; the people kissing the Mlr's hand on arrival^ on departure, and on receiving an order. We remained thirteen days at Kila Panj. The weather was very severe most of that time. Snow fell on six days, and an intensely cold wind blew regularly till within three days of our departure. Wood speaks in his book of the withering blast of the " bid-i-Wakhin^' (wind of Wakhin). It prevailed during a great part of our stay at Panja, and only ceased occasionally, to be followed by an equally chilling wind from the opposite direction, Badaksh^n. These winds swept across the open plain on which we were encamped, with such a cutting violence, that our horses and baggage ponies were as much starved by the cold as by scarcity of fodder. Our party was a large one, amounting with our sepoy guard of five men of the Guide Corps, and a similar number of K&shgharis, to forty-eight men and seventy-two horses. We arrived at the most unfavorable time for supplies. Most of the excess, above the wants of the inhabitants, being sold in the end of the summer and during the autumn, to the mer- chants who pass with their " k^fiW^ in those seasons, the matter of our daily supplies and a sufficiency to take us back over the P^mir was one of great difficulty. Wheat (beardless), barley, beans, and peas are the principal crops in Wakh^n. Melons and apricots ripen at Zong, the large village previously mentioned, above Kila Panj. The climate of the Sarhadd district, extending thirty-five miles down from the first village at the head of the valley, is too cold for wheat. The only timber grown is the white poplar, and that, by reason of the violent wind of the countiy, requires a sheltered position. Stunted red willow and other bushes are plentiful in the sandy stretches by the river. There appears to be little or no mineral wealth in Wakhin. Iron is procured horn Badakhshin. We could not get sufficient even to make the necessary horse shoes for our animals, and had to give our iron tent pegs to the smiths to be so worked up. The present trade between Eastern and Western Turkist^n is very limited. It consists chiefly of " churrus " (intoxicating drug) and cotton cloth of Khoten manufacture from the former, and of horses, indigo, kincob, and sundries from the latter. The indigo and kincob are obtained from India. The Mir of Wakh^n levies transit dues at a uniform rate of one Muhammadshahi rupee (equal to one rupee and three annas of Indian money) per horse-load, irrespective of value. No dues are levied at Sirikol^ this being done on the goods reaching their destination. a29 ( 228 ) We had been told that the Great Pimir^ on aocount of snow^ is rarefy passable till the end of June, and were assured that it would be impossible for a large party like ours to succeed in anj attempt earlier. On the 16th April I despatched a sepoj of the Gtiides with two of the Kir's men towards the Great P^mir Lake to rq>ort on the depth of snow, so that we might take advantage of any possible chance of passage. They returned in eight days, bringing such an account of the road as induced us to determine on trying it. They found the snow deep and heavy in the drifts and hollows, but the fact of their having been able to reach the lake made us regard the journey as much less difficult than had been previously represented. The Mir visited us the day after the return of the Guides, and, referring to their report, said that he would give all assistance in his power to gratify our desire to see the Great P&mir Lake, and go back by a different route than that by which we came. Our baggage horses had not recovered from the effects of the severe journey over, but as the Mir undertook to give help in that way, we were able to commence preparations for return to Sirikol. The Mir also made arrangements for the provision and carriage of eight days' supply of food for men and horses. On the 26th the weather changed suddenly from cold to mild, and a heavy fall of rain that night, succeeded by a warm day without wind, gave signs of coming spring. On the 26th we paid a farewell visit to the Mir, and left Kila Panj that day. Captain Trotter, Doctor Stoliczka and I for the Great P&mir, and Captain Biddulph, accompanied by Resaidar Muhammad Afzul Khin, for the Chitr£l Passes, a spot in the Akt£ah valley being appointed as our rendezvous on the 4th of May. We (the Great Pimir party) halted the first day at Langar-Eisht, a considerable village on the right bank of the Great P^mir stream, and the last in ihe valley leading up to the lake. Near it is the Issitr Fort, built on a solitary rock, standing out high on the plain, and said to be of very ancient date. We examined the ruins, and found them to show ,no signs of greater antiquity than those of T^shkurg^n-SirikoL The mud used as cement in the walls indicated no great age. No hewn stones were seen in the whole place. The Mir's eldest son visited us in the evening at Langar-Kisht, to say good-bye and present a pair of ibex hounds, which were evidently considered a valuable gift The sporting tastes of the Wakhis lead them not to regard the dog as a mean, animal, similarly as other Muhammadans do. Wood mentions how a slave was given ia exchange for a dog, and the Mir, when we took leave of him, said that he would be always glad to see the English, that even a dog of theirs would be welcomed, and he would himself rise in the night time to see food cooked for it.^ From Langar-Kisht our road lay in a general north-easteriy direction, at some height along the slopes of the mountains on the ri^t bank of the stream. The mountains on each side rise by a very gradual incline from the deep rocky gorge in whidfai the stream flows. The Zerzamm and Mutz streams join from the north, at eight and nineteen miles from Langar* Kisht. The upper road to Shighn&n leads along the latter. Bar Panja, the capiiad, is said to be reached in eight days by it, and Sh&kh Darrah in three days. Sh^kh Daurrah was at one time a small independent Mirship, but it now forms part of Shighnin. The Kirghiz, who formerly occupied the western end of the Great P^mir, are now located in Sh&kh Darrah. According to the Wakhis the Mutz stream has a course of about twentsy-five miles, risings near the crest of the mountains to the north, which form the boundaiy between Wakh&n and Shighniln, the stream from the opposite side of which falls into the Murgh&b. The Great P&nur appears to begin twenty-five miles aboie Langar-Kisht. The valley which up to that point is narrow, the base of the mountains approaching the bed of the stream, opens out there, and the hills on either side show low and rounded. Thence the road lay in the same general direction, over flats and long easy slopes the whole way to the lake. Birch and * Note, — This seems to be a general expression of welcome ; for the Dadkhwah of Yaikand, Mahomed Tunas Khan, said the same to m» in 187(X (Sd.) T. D. F. ( 229 ) willow are plentiful to within twenty-five miles of the lake. From that on^ the never failing '^ hurtzi'' affords an abundant supply of fuel. Excellent grass^ similar to that in the Little Pimir^ aud the jCktish and Sinkol valleys^ is found throughout. The lake stream in the first sixteen miles of its course flows between high gravelly banks^ which rise to far extending downs^ dying away in the long and easy mountain slopes. We were remarkably fortunate in meeting with comparatively little snow as far as the lake. There was a considerable fall on the night of the 29th at Bilaur Bas^ twenty-five miles below the lake. We reached the Oreat Pimir or Wood's lake on Ist May. It was entirely frozen over and covered with snow. Its water is perfectly sweet, judging from what we used for two days from the stream which flows out of it. It extends east and west, and is about ten miles long by three broad. The water marks on the shores however indicate a considerable enlargement in summer. Its height is 14,200 feet. The southern shore is even, the nprthem broken and irregular. The ^ores resemble a sea beach from the sand and gravel which cover them. Many signs of considerable dep^h were observed. At three miles from the foot a high promontory runs out from the northern shore and approaches the southern side to within less than a mile. The hills to the south slope very gradually from the edge of the lake, and the peaks rise to a height of four or five thousand feet above it. Broad plains and low undulations, for about three miles, Ke between it and the hills to the north, which appear much lower than those to the south. The valley closes in at the head of the lake, and continues narrow for about eight miles, when it again opens out with a steady fall to the east. Captain Trotter by examination deter- mined the water-shed to be at this point. Two small frozen lakes were observed near the head of the lake, under the high snowy mountains, which close in there from the south. Th^ pre- sented the appearance of ice aoeumnlatiaiis, and probably, after furnishing feeders to the lake for a short time, finally disappear in summer. A valley at the head of the lake leads to the Wurm pass, by which the Little P^mir, Langar, and Sarhadd are reached in one and two days. There was a great deal of snow about the lake, and it lay so deep on the high ground at its head, and in the valley leading down east from the water-shed, that the easy regular road that way could not be followed. We were forced to find a path along the low hills to the north, and had considerable difficulty in forcing our way through the heavy snow drifts. The snow ceased about eighteen miles from the lake. The eastern stream from the water- shed is there joined bv a large one from the Shash Darrah (six valleys) in the range between the Oreat and Little Pamirs. Several paths lead from this point to the Little P^mir and the A!kt£sh valley. We followed the united streams, here called the IsUgh, down to the ^kt^tsh valley, a distance of fifty-eight miles, over a very gentle &11 the whole way. The hills right and left are low and rounded, with great openings and depressions appearing every where. We were accompanied by a large parfy of Wakhis, acting as guides and in charge of the horses carrying our supplies. On one of these guides being asked if paths lay in the direction of certain openings pointed out, the answer was '^ Yes, there are paths all over the P&mir. It has a thousand roods. With a guide you can go in all directions.^ From the junction of the Oreat P^mir with the ^kt£sh valley we travelled eighteen miles, sontii-eaBt by south, up to the halting place, which had been agreed upon with Captain Biddulph as the point of meeting on the 4th May. Both parties reached punctually on that date, we having marched thirty-seven miles that day to keep the engagement. Captain Biddnlph succeeded in visiting the Chitril passes, and made a most valuable addi- tion to the results of our Pimir exploration. The AKchor P£m{r runs east and west, parallel to the Oreat and Little Pamirs. Accord- ing to Wakhi accounts it is similar in character to them, broad at the eastern, and narrow at the western end. It is connected with the Oreat Pinur by the " Dasht-i-Khargdehi,'' a desert flat whieh extends across from about twenty miles below the Oreat P^mir lake. A roiad passes over it and branches from the Alich6r to Shighn^n and Khokand. The Dasht-i-Kharg6shi is ( 230 ) about twenty miles in length. A stagnant lake called Tdz^ and Snssik Kti (salt, putrid lake) lies near the western end. The water of it was described to* me as being salt to the taste. Abddl Mejid noticed this lake as at the first stage from Kharg68hi| which agrees with the accoant given to us. To the east of the Sussik Kul a fresh water stream rises and flows into the Yeshil Ktil lower down in the Alichor^ from which another issues and &lls into the Mdrghib, below its junction with the Aksu. The Kishghari army that fled with the Khojas in the last century before the Chinese, when they gained possession of Eastern Tdrkist^n, passed up the Alich6r Piimir in their flight to Badakshin. They were overtaken near the Yeshil kul, and are said to have driven their women and children, mounted on camels and horses, into the lake to meet their death by drown- ing, rather than ^ow them to fall into the hands of the Chinese. The Kirghiz have a legend tlmt the sounds of lamentation, and of people and animals in terrifying alarm at threatened death, are often heard to come out of the lake. I have already mentioned the Siriz Vimit when speaking of the Akt^h valley. This Pimir appears to be a continuation of the Akt^h valley, similarly as the Little P£mir is, and as the Taghddngbitsh is of the Sirikol valley. It seems to run from Ak-b£lik in the east, to Bartang in the west. Bartang is the beginning of the inhabited and cultivated portion of Shighnan in that direction. It is described as abounding with fruit-bearing trees, and must therefore be much lower than Kila Panj, with a very different climate. It is easy to believe this, when the long course of the Aksd, with ite steady fall, is considered. The Kirghiz spoke of the Bung (ibex) KtSla, large lake, about one day's journey from Xk- hihk, and situated in the Siriz Pimir. This probably is the Bung KiSl of Pimir KhtSrd, mentioned in Colonel Yule's Essay on the Geography of the Oxus, the KktiBk valley being thus regarded as the Littie Pitmir, of which it is but the continuation, as I have already explained. By the Kirghiz accounts, the Great Karakul is four days, the Littie KiraktSl three, the Bung Kdl one, and the Yeshil Kultwo and a half days' journey from Ak-bilik. I estimate the day's journey in these accounte at fifteen miles. Abdtil Mejid made seven marches from Kharg6shi te the Great Kiirakul. Of these one probably was te the Alich6r, two down it to Ak-bilik, and four up the Murghib, by the road which is said to pass along ite banks. The animals of the Pamirs are the ovis poli, ibex, brown bear, leopard, lynx, wolf, fox, marmot, and hare. These remain throughout the year. Wild fowl swarm on the lakes in summer. The wild yak is not known on or n^ar the Pimir. We were not fortunate in pursuit of game. On the way over the Wakhin the snow lay too deep to permit of sport, and on the journey back our limited supplies would not admit of a halt for the purpose. The only ovis poli obtained was a female shot by Captain Trotter, on a long march of thirty-seven miles. The horns of the ovis poli and the ibex lie in great numbers at many places on the Pamirs. These animals suffer heavily from the leopards and wolves, which prey almost entirely upon them. A murrain is also said to have made great havoc amongst both some years ago. The ibex are similar to the Himalayan species, and accordingly differ from those we saw in the Thian Shin ranee, which were of the black species, also found in the Kuen Luen. I brought away a pair of ovis poli horns measuring sixty-five and a half inches in length round the curve, fifty-three inches in a straight line from tip to tip, and sixteen inches round the base. I purpose giving them to the National Museum of Natural History in London. We experienced none of the usual symptoms of great height, headache and diflSculty of respiration, on the Pamirs, in the degree that native travellers have described. None of our camp followers and people suffered in any way beyond breathlessness when exertion was made- All were free from the pain of '' dum " as it is called, with the exception of our mess khinsi- mih, who invariably became a victim anywhere at an elevation over 12,000 feet. There was perfect health among our party throughout the joum^. One of the Wakhis, who accompanied us with the supplies over the Great Pimir, died suddenly on the last match to Aktish, and this was the only casualty, or sickness even, among the numbers of men who ( 281 ) were attached to our damp when croBsiiig and reCroBsing the PiLmirs. All the natiyes of India with us bore the severe cold and hard work with remarkable endurance and courage. The PILmir plateau may be described as a preat^ broad^ rounded ridge^ extending north and Bouth^ and crossed by thick mountain chaip' between which lie elevated valleys^ open and gently sloping towards the east, but narro^ and confined with a rapid fall towards the west. The waters which run in all, with the exception of the eastern flow from the Taghdungbfish, collect in the Oxus ; the Aksti from the Little Pamir lake receiving the eastern drainage, which finds an outlet in the Akt£sh valley, and joining the Murghib, which obtains that from the Alichor and Siriz PiLmirs. As the eastern T^ghdungb^sh stream finds its way into the Yi[rkand river, the watershed must be held as extending from that Pimir, down the range dividing it from the Little P&mir, and along the Neza T&db mountains to the Kizil Art pass leading to the Al&i, We saw hot springs at Patir, thiriy-five miles below Sarhadd (tem. ISO deg.) at Zong, near Kila Panj, and at Isligh, between the Great V&mii lake and the Akt£sh valley. We made repeated enquiries from Kirghiz and Wakhis, and from Mir Fatteh Ali Shah, regarding " B616r," as a name for any mountain, country, or place, but all professed perfect ignorance of it. I have already explained how the name of a place has been mistaken for that of the Little Pamir lake. A similar mistake appears to have been made in the name " Sirikol '^ given to the lake of Great Piimir. "When speaking of our journey up to the lake, we were told of stages called ''Bun, Bekh, and PayAn-i-kuP' (base, root, foot of lake), '^Miyin and Baribar-i-kul '' (middle, and half way up the lake) and " Bill£ andSir-i-kul (above, and head of, the lake). Sir-i-kul was most frequently mentioned, being the usual caravan stage, and it was said in such a way as to lead easily to the idea of its being the name of the lake. When the g^des were asked pointedly as to the real name of the lake, they answered — " It is called Eul-i-KaMn (the Great Lake) because there is no other lake in the country equal to it in size.^' Therefore the name " Victoria,^^ given by Wood, displaces no distinctive local one, and may well continue to be used, without fear of causing confusion. I have spoken of the Aktash stream flowing from the Little Pimir lake as being called *' the Aksu*' by the Kirghiz. In Turki the " A^' in " Ak^^ (white) is pronounced so broad, as to sound exactly like '^ O.^' Captain Biddulph, on hearing the name so pronounced " Oksu,'' suggested it to be the probable derivation of the Roman " Oxus.''* We asked at T^hkurgdn the meaning of " Sirikol.'' Hussun Shah, the governor, gave his opinion that it is a corruption of Sir-i-koh, the place being at a great elevation. On finding the valley to be a continuation of the T^gbdungb^sh, I looked upon Hussun Shah's explanation as probably correct, from the fact of its being a literal translation of T^ghdung- bish, both meaning ^^ head of the mountain." Nothing seems more likely than that the Persian-speaking Sirikolis should, on settling in the valley, give it a Persian name, literally interpreting its Turki one. Regarding the name " P^mir," the meaning appears to be wilderness — a place depopulated, abandoned, waste yet capable of habitation. I obtained this information on the Great P^mir from one of our intelligent guides, who said in explanation — '* In former days when this part was inhabited by Kirghiz, as is shown by the ruins of their villages and burial grounds, the valley was not all called Pdmir, as it is now. It was then known by its village names, as is the country beyond Sirikol, which being now occupied by Kirghiz is not known by one name, but partly as Chirling, Bas Rob£t, &c. If deserted it would be Pimir."t * Note, — One objection to this otherwise reasonable explanation is that the word Oxns was nsed by the Greeks, not Romans, long before Turki had spread so far west. (Sd.) T. D. P. t Note, — ^The same explanation of the word was giyen to me at Yangi-Hissar. It is in fiict a Ehokandi Tnrki word. (Sd.) T. D. P. a 30 ( 232 ) We reached ilCkt^ on the 4th May^ haymg trayelled one hundred and fifty-seyen nulai from Panja. We found provisions awaitdn^^ us there^ sent out from Tishkurgin hj Hussun Shah^ according to request. We had experienced some difficuliy in obtaining the supplies equired for our journey from Wakh^n, and were nearly being starved through the avarice and greed of those entrusted by Mir Futteh Ali Shah with the order to provide. We found, after proceeding one march beyond the last habitation^ that sufficient for five days only, inatewd of eight, had been furnished. The Mir was at once communicated with on ^e subject, and we were overtaken the next day by a messenger^ with a letter saying how annoyed he was at the dishonesty which had been practised towards us and himself, and that extra supplies would reach us that night, which they did. Seeing horse flesh in common use for food in Elishgar, we had learnt to look upon our ponies as a last resource always in case of extreme necessity. We halted a day at Akt&sh to rest our tired animals, and to arrange for the return of the Wakhis to Panja. Fifty of them with fifty-two horses accompanied us on the journey, and did us capital service. We rewarded them liberally, and sent them back with a letter of thanks to their Mir. We retraced our steps to T&shkurg&n, where we were again most kindly received by Hussun Shah. After three days' halt we proceeded on the return journey to the plains of Ydrkand. We went the first day to the foot of the Kok-Moinok pass, taking a long round by the Ti^gharma plain. We crossed the Kok-Moinok (15,800 feet), and joined the road by which we travelled up, at the little lake in the Chichiklik plain. There was a considerable amount of snow on the Kok-Moinok, the last we crossed on the way down. The pass is easy of ascent and descent. We had a fall of snow at Chihil-Gumbaz on the night of the 14th May, and cold weather till the 18th, when we were at once plunged into extreme heat at Egiz-Yar, in the plains. From that we struck across couutry to Kizil Sob^t, the first stage on the road from Yangi-Hissir to Yirkand. We arrived at Y^rkand on the 21st May, left on the 28th, and reached Leh on the 29th June. Three days after crossing the Kirakoram pass, we suffered the deep affliction of losing by death one of our party. Dr. Stoliczka> a highly valued friend and talented companion. Iiis death is a great loss to the scientific world, for had he lived, he would have added much to knowledge by his researches and discoveries in geology and natural history. p ** CHAPTER VII. GEOGBAPHIOAL REPORT. When the Government of India had decided to send a diplomatic Mission to the At£lik Oh£zi of K£shghar it was determined to appoint an officer of the Indian Survey Department to accompany the expedition as Geographer; and Captain Henry Trotter^ Royal Engineers^ of the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India^ was selected for the post. The preliminary arrangements were left by Mr. (now Sir Douglas) Forsyth entirely in the hands of Captain T^otter^ subject to such advice as he might receive from Colonel Walker, B.E.^ the Superintendent of the Great Trigonometrical Survey. The only restrictions insisted on were that everything was to be arranged for mule carriage^ and the survey baggage was to be limited to three mule loads^ also that the services of two khalasies (carriers) only could be allowed to assist generally in the work. Abdxd Subh&n^ a Sub-Surveyor in the Topographical Survey Department^ was subsequently permitted to accompany Captain Trotter to act as recorder and general assistant. Two of the Great Trigonometrical Survey " Pundits^'* with their assist- ants were also placed at Captain Trotter's disposal. It has been found convenient to arrange this Chapter in the shape of a General Report by Captain Trotter^ to which is added an appendix shewing in some detail the results of the observations, astronomical, meteorological, hypsometric, and magnetic, taken by that officer and his assistants. The appendix includes some observations by Captain Biddulph on the Ling-zi- thung plains and on the road to Maralbdshi, and also contains detailed accounts descriptive of the various routes followed by members of the Mission, as well as of others compiled from native information, principally by Dr. Bellew. CAPTAIN TROTTER^S REPORT. Introductory. The first point to be decided was as to the instruments and equipment to be taken, and this was an anxious matter; it was impossible to say what sort of a reception we should meet with in Yirkand, and whether I should be allowed to use openly any survey instru- ments at all; I had also to bear in mind the, to me, totally new condition, that my instruments would have to be packed and carried on mules^ and taken over the highest passes in the world. (In the Indian Survey Department delicate instruments such as theodolites, &c., are always carried by men^ and even in the survey party attached to the Abyssinian Expedition this rule, I believe, was never departed from.) This condition imposed the necessity of taking only moderate sized instruments and such as were not likely to be injured by violent shakes and jars. Fortunately among the instruments of the department there was one that had already done good service at Magd&la, vtz.^ a 6-inch Transit Theodolite, with micrometer eye-piece, by Troughton and Simms. On Colonel Walker's reconmiendation I took this as my mainstay for ^astro- nomical observations, and I may here add that I have used it constantly throughout my absence from India, and have been very much pleased with its performance. A few slight * The term by which it has been customary to desigmite natives employed by the Great Trigonometrical Snrrey Department on Trans-Frontier Explorations. aSl ( 234 ) alterations having been made in the fittings, it was carried safely in one of oar leathern mnle trunks for more than 3,000 miles over I suppose some of the most difficult roads in Asia, without receiving the sl^htest injury, or having at any time been unserviceable. For its size it is a most perfect instrument. I had, however, also to consider what I should use in case of secrecy being necessary, and for this of course there was nothing like a sextant, so I provided myself with a 6-inch sextant by Troughton and Simms, as well as a small pocket sextant by the same maker, taking with them the ordinary mercurial artificial horizons. I may allude to the &ct that Captains Biddulph and Chapman both spent a short time at the head-quarters of the Great Trigonometrical Survey for the purpose of practising astronomical observations in anticipation of the probability of our party separating in different directions in Eastern Turkestan. It was arranged that the former should take with him a sextant and the latter a theodolite, a sister instnmient to my own. There were, therefore, in camp duplicates in case of any accident happening to my own instruments. I also provided myself with a very small light theodolite for use on high peaks (where , it would be unsafe to attempt to carry the large instrument) and for traversing along roads if opportunity should occur. Besides the instruments already named I had a supply of prismatic j and pocket compasses (I may mention that owing to breakage and accidents I at one time ran short of pocket compasses, and I was much indebted to Colonel Gordon during the P&mir trip for the loan of a very good little instrument), and a small light plane-table, which I had specially made to fit on to my theodolite stand. A good hand telescope was fitted to the same stand which also served, when necessary, with a slight adaptation, for a Hodgkinson's Actinometer belonging to the Boyal Socieiy and lent to me by Mr. Hennessey of the Great Trigonometrical Survey for the service of the expedition. Colonel Boberts, the Acting Quarter Master General, kindly gave me an old astronomical telescope which had been in use for many years in the Quarter Master General's Department. This telescope was presented to the Dadkhw^h of Yarkand on our return to India. It was proposed that I should take a complete set of instruments for observation of the magnetic elements — intensity, dip, and declination ; but considering the great bulk and delicacy of these instruments, as well as the time that would have been occupied in making the necessary observations — ^time which I could not expect to be able to snatch from more important duties — I determined to take the dip circle only, a small instrument and one not occupying very much time to observe with. Observations tot declination (variation) I was able to manage with my theodolite, with sufficient accuracy for practical purposes. With regard to chronometers and watches for astronomical purposes, it was decided that I should only take pocket chronometers, and as the Survey Department could only provide me with one good one, I had to order two from England, a gold one by Dent, and a silver watch by Brock, a maker strongly recommended by the Boyal Geographical Society. These watches, I found while crossing the Himalayas, could not be depended on for very accurate results, as the sudden and enormous changes of temperature combined with other causes to make the rates very irregular (although all were professedly compensated for temperature), and for that portion of our journey I consider it better to rely upon the Pundit's pacing, checked by * . latitude observations, rather than on differential longitudinal observations depending on these watches. During trips in Turkestan,however, where there was considerably less variation in temperature, the results are much more satisfactory, and in my excursion towards Ush Itirf&n the resulting positions in longitude depend entirely upon chronometric differences of time, as also in great measure do those between K^shghar and Panjah in Wakh^n. For meteorological observations and for determinations of height I decided to run the risk of taking with me mercurial mountain barometers, feeling that the greater confidence that would be placed in results deduced therefrom woidd more than compensate for the risk of loss by breakage; I procured two from Bombay and one from Calcutta, and on the whole I am glad that I did so, as I succeeded in safely transporting all three over the Himalayan ranges, having been able to get them carried by men on foot. On the other side of the mountains I was not so ( 236 ) fortunate. At Sanju one of them was blown down in front of my tent by a sudden violent gust of wind^ and the very next day another^ which I had entrusted to the care of Dr. Bellew^ was^ on account of the length of the march^ G^iven to a horseman to carry : the horse fell in cross- ing a river and No. £ was smashed. The third survived^ and regular observations were taken with it throughout the winter in Yirkand. It too was broken on the return journey^ its carrier falling with it in a stream. I was also provided with numerous aneroid barometers^ hypsometers and thermometers. The latter I had specially made to order in England^ as none that I could procure in India were graduated low enough to register the minimum temperature to be expected in the higher ranges of the Himalayas. As was to be anticipated in a jouniey like ours^ very many of these have been broken ; loose horses getting at night amongst the tent ropes^ and in the extreme cold weather even inside the tent^ have much to answer for. While at Dehra Dun * prior to starting I was occupied in making myself familiar with the instruments I was about to take with me^ and in practising the observations I should probably chiefly be dependent on ; in drawing up and getting lithographed portable and compact forms for registration and computation of observations, and other miscellaneous preparatory work. I prepared a large number of sheets with all the most northerly points fixed by the Great Trigonometrical Survey on the frontier of India projected thereon, as well as the latest determinations of the Russian survey^ in order that by whichever route we might go or return, or wherever we might wander, I might lose nothing for want of previous prepara- tion. These charts were not of so much service to me as I had hoped, as wherever there was a chance that they might be utilized, the vicissitudes of the climate, and the rapidity with which we had to travel, invariably interposed to prevent my making full use of them. Colonel Walker also designed, and had prepared and photozincographed, a star chart, projected on a new principle, showing only stars of the first three magnitudes, nautical almanac stars being distinguished from all others. I found this chart a very valuable practical guide while observing. On Sir Douglas Forsyth^s application to Colonel Walker four of the Oreat Trigonometri- cal Survey " Pundits,^' or rather two of the old Pundits with two assistants, were attached to the Mission, as it was hoped that an opening would occur for the despatch of these men from Eastern Turkestan across the Gobi Desert and through Thibet to Hindustan. It was not deemed advisable however to employ them thus, and when the Mission advanced from Y&rkand to Kdshghar it was necessary to leave them in Ydrkand. Permission was given, however, for one of them to follow me to Kfishghar, and he did useful work, of which more hereafter. The remainder were employed in Y^rkand during the winter in taking meteoro-* logical observations, Itoad to Tarkand, For a few marches from Leh, in every direction, the country has been carefully and correctly surveyed and mapped in former years by parties of the Great Trigonometrical Survey under Major Montgomerie, B.E., but between this rigorously executed survey (bounded on the north by the head waters of the Nubra and Shyok, and on the north-east by the Ling-zi- thung plains) and the table-lands of Turkestan, lie vast tracts of mountainous country, parts of which, through the enterprise, zeal, and energy of Messrs. Shaw, Hayward, and Johnson, have been mapped with tolerable accuracy, while other parts have probably never yet been traversed by man, certainly not by geographers. It was my object to weld together as far as possible the existing materials into a harmonious whole and to add whatever I could to existing data. It had been, decided that the Mission should proceed to Sh^hidula in two parties, the head- quarters going by the old K^r^korum route, whilst a detached party, consisting of Captain Biddulph (in command). Dr. Stoliczka, and myself, was directed to proceed via Changchenmo by the route by which the former Mission returned from Ydrkand in 1870, and as we had * The Head-quarters of the Great Trigonometrical Survey. ( 236 ) fieveral days' start of the main party it was hoped that we might be able to discover some alternative roate by which that line of road might be shortened and difficulties avoided. The delay of the Hadji Turrah Sahib, the Yirkand Envoy, in Constantinople made it necessary for the advanced party to halt at Leh until authentic news should arrive of his departure. Authority to advance was not received until we had been there for more than a fortnight, and we left it finally on the 12th September with orders to join the main party at Shfihidiila on the £Oth October. This unfortunate though unavoidable delay not only deprived us of so much time for prosecuting geographical investigation, but postponed our departure to so late a season that inclement weather proved a serious hindrance to our advance, and a still greater impediment to me in carrying out the programme I had laid down for myself. As the best arrangement I could make, one Pundit with an assistant was left at Leh to proceed with the head-quarters camp ; the other one with a better instructed assistant, capable if necessary of doing independent work, was to accompany our own party, and in the probable event of our separation was to be attached to Captain Biddulph, the assistant being attached to Dr. Stoliczka. Abdul Subhin, the Native Surveyor, or '/ Miinshi'* as he is generally called, was to accompany me as recorder and general assistant, and to be sent out with the plane>table should opportunity occur. It might have been expected that the presence of such a large party would have facilitated arrangements for carrying on work ; but the exact contrary was the case, as the demands on the limited resources of the country were so great that it was found impossible to send out any detached parties, the Native Surveyors were therefore obliged to accompany the main camps, to march when they marched, and halt when thev halted ; and as the marches are arranged for the convenience of travellers and not of Pundits, some of them were found uncommonly stiff and difficult to get through before dark. As the Pundits were in pairs a great part of the way and thus able to divide the work, the ground was got over with a &ir amount of accuracy : and checked and corrected by the latitude observations taken both by themselves and myself on the outward and return journeys, the routes are certainly laid down with an amount of accuracy not hitherto attained. I should explain that in making my plans I was g^ded by the peculiar nature of the survey work generally don^ by these natives. This consists of a traverse survey, the angles of which are measured with a prismatic compass and the distances determined by the number of Pundits' paces. These paces have a slightly different unit of length, which is generally determined at the close of operations by comparing the total amount of northing or southing as shewn by the traverse, with the true corresponding distance as determined by the difference of latitude between the starting and closing points. The Pundits are all able to take latitude observations with a sextant and are instructed to do so wherever opportuniiy occurs. It is obvious that the accuracy of the survey depends upon their being able to keep up a continuous measure of the road ; any break in it would ruin the work. Hence the necessitv, if possible, of their working in couples, so that they may relieve each other in the pacing, especially where, as in the present case, they were obliged to accompany the large camps and could not select their own halting places. The days were getting short, and if darkness once overtook a man before he had concluded his work, there was every probability of his whole survey being spoiled. Having thus arranged for the two main lines of road to be laid down with consider- able accuracy, I was free to devote myself to what I considered a very important matter, viz., the fixing accurately the correct positions of certain points on the line of march. I wished to do this either by triangulation in continuation of the Great Trigonometrical Survey system of triangles, or by running with the small theodolite a very careful traverse of the road. With the Munshi's help I trusted to be able to carry this traverse up to Shdhidula, a point whose position it was very important to determine with accuracy. I also hoped occasionally to place myself in posi- tion on the plane-table by means of certain trigonometrical points which were fixed years ago by the Survey Department in advance of the accurate detailed survey. Many of these points are in the main Kfirdkorum and Kuen Luen ranges; some of them in the heart of the terra incognita \ m ins 41.— Shrint! of Sokan Saluk Bogra Khan al Artu^h. N. of Kashgar I 5l: r ■ ?3 •% i -Shrine of Suitan Saluk Bogra Khan at Artusb. N. of Kashgar. ( 237 ) before alluded to; and had I had more time at my disposalj and had the weather been more -favourable, I might have done very valuable work. As it was, owing to the antagonism of the elements mj diary shows one almost continuous succession of disappointments, most dis- heartening under the circumstances that it was the beginning of the journey, and that I did not know but that circumstances might prevent any work being done after entering Yirkand territory. Climbing hills at the ^^reat elevation we were then at was very hard work, and of course occupied considerably more time and labour than similar ascents at a lower level ; and in nine cases out of ten when one did arrive at the top of a high hiU, snow and clouds entirely obscured both distant and neighbouring peaks. This cloudy weather combined with the necessity of regulating halts and marches according to the places where supplies had been laid out, soon made it evident that it was useless to attempt a continuation of the triangulation. The length of some of the inarches and the shortness of the days made the execution of a careful traverse, as impossible as the triangulation, and after some very hard work, I reluctantly came to the conclusion that nothing could be done by myself ft.e,^ in addition to astronomical work), but to make what use I could of the plane-table. Even with this but little was done owing to the extremely unfavourable state of the weather ; but I fortunately succeeded in fixing my position satisfactorily at two or three places on the road to Shdhidula, the most northerly point where I did so was at Chibra, south of the Suget Pass. Throughout the journey the cold was so intense that even the Bhots^ who were mtii me used, on arrival at the top of a hill, to lie down in hollows or crouch behind stones in order to avoid the bitter blast. Under these circumstances, satisfactory work could not be expected, and although I kept my own health in a wonderful manner, I had the misfortune to knock up more or less nearly every man who accompanied me. From the 24th September, the day on which we reached Gogpra, until the 17th October on arrival at Suget, I was never at a lower level than 15,500 feet, and during the whole of that period the thermometer seldom rose as high as freezing point (32^ F.), whereas at night the minimum would vaiy from zero to 26^ below zero.f From 26th September to 8th Octo- ber I was never below 16,300 feet, my highest camp being at Dehra Kompds]: 17,900 feet above the level of the sea.§ Snow was frequently falling throughout the whole of this period, and for three days was the only substitute for water, for both man and beast. Captain Biddulph, who travelled by a more easterly route than Dr. Stoliczka and myself, was living at even a greater elevation. On the 13th of October Dr. Stoliczka and myself reached iiktdgh, where we joined the head-quarters camp. It had originally been arranged that Captain Biddulph, accompanied by a Pundit, was to cross the K&r&korum line of road and explore the country to the west of Akt&gh towards Kufelong. Dr. Stoliczka, accompanied by the other Pundit, was to have crossed from the K&ritigh Lake by a new route to the K^r&k&sh River, but his illness, as well as the weak state to which the camp followers were reduced from lengthened exposure to cold and hard work, made it necessary to alter these arrangements. I was now directed to g^ up the Kdrdkfeh River, and endeavour to find the road which was believed to exist between some point up the river and the KAr&t&gh Lake, and which it was supposed might turn out a good alternative route. I returned from this expedition, the details of which are given in another place, on the 20th October, and left the following day with a party under the orders of Colonel Gordon for Sdnjii with instructions to await Sir Douglas Forsyth's arrival at that place. As Sh^dula was the first point where we struck the Atdlik's dominions and met his people, I briefly give the result of survey operations up to that point. * JBMs are inhabitants of Ladakh. t i.e^ 68^ below freezing point. X So called from having been used as a camping ground by a former Survey Officer or Kompas (compass) wala, the native designation for all surveyors. § It was the hardshim encountered while traversing this elevated region that brought on the illness which subsequently cost Dr Stoliczka his life. a32 ( 238 ) One Pandit and his assistant accompanied the head-quarters camp and were kindly looked after hj Captain Chapman^ who himself took some astronomical observations along the road. They ran a route survey from Leh^ vid the Kh^rdung Pass^ up the Nubra Valley to Changlung, thence by the Siser Pass to S^r^ from which place the Pimdit proceeded by the winter route up the Shyok Biver and by the Bemo glacier to Daulat Beguldi, while his assist- ant took the summer route by Murghi and the Dipsang plains to the same spot. Thence they proceeded by the r^ular road over the Kib&korum Pass to Aktfigh, from which place they carried their traverse down the Yirkand Biver for three marches to Kirghiz Jangal^ returning thence to Shihidula by the Kirghiz Pass. Kishen Sing^ the Pundit^ accompanying the advanced parly commenced his route survey at Chimray^ two marches east of Leh. At &Oigril, the next halting place^ his assistant diverged from the main road, going over the Kay La (Pass) and joined us again at Tankse. The Pundit went with the main camp over the Chang-la.'^ IVom l^mkse we all proceeded to Gogra^ whence the Pundit was detached to accompany Captain Biddulph, who went over '' Cayley^sf Pass'' and the Ling-zi-thung plains, considerably to the east of the road by which the former Mission returned from Yirkand in 1870, which road, however, he rejoined at Kizil-Jilga, thence following the K&T&kieh in all its bends down to ShiLhidula. Captain Biddulph took numerous observations for height on his line of march, generally using one of the mercurial barometers for that purpose. The Pundit kept up a continuous route survey the whole way and took frequent astronomical observations for latitude. Both Captain Biddulph's and Pundit Kishen Sing's observations will be found in the Appendix to this Chapter. This Pundifs assistant, aided by the Mdnshi (as soon as I became convinced that a theo- dolite traverse was impracticable), carried a route survey along the road I myself followed, i.e., the one by which the former Mission returned from Y&kand, by the Changlung-Pangtung Pass. This road skirts the west edge of the Ling-zi-thung plains and striking the K£r4k&h Biver near its head, follows the course of that river until it turns ofE suddenly to the north-west, a point a little beyond Khush Maid&i; thence the road passes vid the Kdritdgh Pass and Lake to Akt^h. From Akt&gh it goes over the Sug^t Pass from which place I sent the Boute Surveyors up in a north-west direction to cross the hills in front and stike the path passing from the Khirghiz Pass to Sh&hidula. My object in detaching them by that road was to enable the Munshi to fix himself in position by some of the survey peaks on the K&rikorum away to the west. He had one fine day and succeeded in doing so, but at the cost of frost-bitten fingers, from which it took him a considerable time to recover. Throughout the march I made astronomical observations with my theodolite which have been reduced (in duplicate) in the head-quarters office of the Great Trigonometrical Survey since my return to India, They, together with my fixings by the plane-^ble, as well as my astronomical work on the return journey, and the Pundif s own observations, form the basis on which the whole of the Pundifs traverses have been built up. To this frame I have added such material as is available from the maps of the Trigonometrical Survey and of Messrs. Johnson, Shaw, and Hayward. The whole combined form a map more accurate and complete than anything yet published, and should, for g^graphical purposes, as far as the actual lines of road are concerned, leave but little more to be desired. Descriptions of the routes traversed by various members of the Mission will be found in the Appendix, Section, Routes. As regards this early portion of our journey the only new contributions I can give to science and geography are the results of a boating expedition on the Pangong Lake, and an account of the excursion, already referred to, which I made from the neighbourhood of Shihiddla to try and discover an alternative road on to the Karatagh plain. The Pangong Lake district has been described at considerable length by Captain Godwin Aui^ten in the Royal Geographical Societf^s Journal tor 1867, and the additional 17,590 feet. | 1 19,^80 feet. ( 239 ) information I can now supply refers to the depth of the lake^ an interesting subject of enquiry^ and one which has^ I believe^ never been investigated with reference to this or any other of the Himalayan Lakes. A portable India rubber boat^ which I had procured from England in the hope of ultimately floating it on Lake Lob^ was the means which enabled Captain Biddulph and myself to make a section across the bottom of the lake. We arranged to halt a day for the purpose at Lukong. The soundings were taken by Captain Biddulph with a fishing line^ which I had carefully measured and marked before starting. We fortuuately had a quiet day^ and owing to the entire absence of wind and current there was not the slighest difficulty in getting these soundings most accurately. Starting from the sandy shore at the west end of the lake we made for the island^ lying about two miles off and situate nearly equidistant from the two sides of the lake. At 100 yards from the shore {N.B. — ^The horizontal distances are only rough estimations) the depth was 55 feet^ the bank sinking gradually; 150 yards further on^ the depth was 93 ieet, and §00 yards further 112 feet; at 550 yards more^ depili 130 feet^ the maximum depth reached between shore and island. As we approached the latter the water grew rapidly shallow. At a distance of 400 yards from it^ there was only 50 feet of water^ and at 250 yards only 14 feet^ from this point a shelving sandy bottom stretched up to the island^ which consisted of a mass of rocks^ about 150 yards in length and considerably less in breadth^ of irregular shape^ and extending in a direction parallel to that of the lake^ viz., from north-west to south-east. It was composed mostly of calcareous iuhfa^ and in no place rose to more than four feet above the surface of the lake. The rock was very brittle and jagged^ and in many places was covered with masses of shells^ of which I brought away specimens : these shells appeared to me to have become only recently untenanted^ but they were pronounced by Dr. Stoliczka to be many centuries old and to be fresh-water specimens. The island or rather islands (a short distance from the main rock in a south-east direction is a long sandbank rising only a few inches above the water) are submerged during heavy storms^ for we found many fragments of wood^ weeds^ and even cattle dung^ which had evidently been washed ashore from the mainland. Although the water was beautif ullv clear we looked in vain for fish^ and with the exception of a species of bug^ of which myriads were swimming about^ we failed to see any animal or signs of life of any description. This is the more curious, as in a small stream which flows into the lake near Lukong there is an abundance of fish. The temperature of the water, which was decidedly bracldsh, was 55° F.; its color, a very pure blue where deep, and green where shallow. From the island I pulled to the north shore of the lake, which lying under precipi- tous cliffs I expected to find much deeper. The water deepened out gradually to 107 feet at 300 yards from the island, and at about half way across, say half a mile from shore, there was a depth of 136 feet; at 250 yards from the mainshore we found 142 feet; at 100 yards, 114 feet; at 50 yards, 95 feet; at 30 yards, 80 feet; at ^0 yards, 50 feet; at 10 yards, 12 feet. The boat, 12 feet long, was very well adapted for work of the kind, and in the absence of wind I was, without violent exertion, able to pull it along, carrying one passenger, at the rate of nearly, if not quite, four miles an hour, and this at an elevation of 14,000 feet above the sea. In fact the exertion required was considerably less than would be needed for walking at the same pace. The banks of the lake, which is about forty miles in length, showed evident signs of the water having formerly stood at a much higher level than it does at present : and there can be little doubt but that the valley along which the road passes from T^nkse up to the lake, was, at no very distant period, its main outlet ; for although there is now a low pass, about two miles from the head of the lake, yet it is not much more than 100 feet above the present level of the water, and is moreover chiefly formed by detritus washed down from two side ravines, and of veiy recent formation. With reference to my short excursion up the K&rdk£sh in search of a new road, I left Sug^t on the morning of the 17th October, and was accompanied as far as Balakchi (9 miles) by Drs. Bellew and Stoliczka, who were paying a visit to the Jade mines. After leaving them I marched on for two and a half hours to Gulbdshem, where I met Captain Biddulph on his way down the K&r&kjidx to Shihidula. My syce (groom) and guide, the only man in our united camps at Sug€t, who professed to know of the existence of the road I was now searching for, Had led ( 2^ ) me to believe that at about one ho9 (2 miles) from Gulb^shemi by turning up a lateral ravine on the souths a journey of 3 ko9 would bring me to a very low and easy pass, with an almoet imperceptible ascent^ from the top of which we were to look down upon tiie KdriLt^h plains ; and the evening we were at Oulb^shem he pointed out a neighbouring spur^ beyond which, he said, the road turned off. What then was my annoyance when the next day we did not reach the turning until after a long and difficult march of 13 miles up the "EArSkisk River, and even then, according to his account, the pass was further off than he had stated it to be the day before. I was extremely vexed at thus partially losing a day, for my camp was so far behind (I having arranged for a short march hoping to get up to the pass and back before night) that there was no time to move it much further on that day, and I had to halt at the entrance of the valley leading to the pass. I had now only two days left in which to visit the pass and return to Sh£hidula, as it had been arranged that I should have to be there on the 20th so as to be ready to leave with Colonel Gordon on the 21st. Starting early in the morning of the following day and quitting the K^r&kish River (at a point 12,500 feet above the sea), we went up a broad open ravine, running south for %\ miles, to a point where it divides in:to two branches of which we followed the eastern for about half a mile up a steepish ascent to a point where this also divides into two smaller ravines with a steep spur running down between them. These two ravines were bounded externally by precipitous banks several hundreds of feet in almost perpendicular height. There was apparently no practicable path along the lower portion of these defiles, but the road zigzags up the spur running down between them, and then follows the left hand one. The top of this first ascent was about 2,500 higher than our camp on the K£r£- k&sh River. From the top of the zigzag, the road up which, though steep, was good and practi- cable for laden ponies, we reached a more open country and the road now followed a broad grassy ravine with a gentle but steady rise. I followed this for seven or eight miles rising to about 16,800 feet, and there was still a stretch apparently of several miles, of gently undulating ground in front. As it was getting late in the day, and there was no time for me to go further, I climbed up a hill from which I obtained a view of the water-shed. I sent on the Pundit (the one who had been accompanying Captain Biddulph, and whom I had brought back from Gulb^shem) with instructions to follow the ravine to the water-shed, and to go beyond and fix by intersection either the El&^t^gh Lake or the hill at T^mba camping ground between lL&r&\&g\x and Akt^h, and, if possible, to return by Akt&gh and rejoin the Head-Quarters camp at Shahidula. He succeeded the following day in passing the crest which turned out to be not more than a couple of miles from where I hsbd left him, and in fixing by intersections from a distance the position of the hill before alluded to ; but the guide having become seriously ill and no one else knowing the countiy, and the whole of the K4r£t^h plain being several inches deep in snow, the Pundit was obliged to return via Gulbishem rejoining uie camp after I had left with Colonel Gordon. 1 returned myself that same evening to my camp at Fot&sh in the Kir^k^sh River, not reaching it, however, till late at night and getting two or three falls on the road, which, although tolerably good by daylight, was in certain places, especially at the foot of the steep zigzag, by no means easy in the dark. I do not think that this route is likely ever to come into general use, for although it is perhaps a better road than that between Sh£hidula and Eir^korum Brangsa {vid the Suget Pass), yet it is much longer. From Shahidula to Brangsa the road t7k^ the Kilr^kash is at least 15 miles longer than the one by the Suget Pass. Should, however, the road vid Kizil-jilga and K£r&t^gh come into frequent use, I believe the Fot&h route might be employed with advantage, as there is very little difference in length of road, and grass and fire-wood are to be found in abundance all the way from Shfliidula up the K&r£k£sh River, and for two miles up the (Fotdsh) ravine, after which there is plenty of grass all the way to the pass as well as any amount of Boortsee* There were numerous tracks, on the higher * Boortsee is a small plant with large woody roots which grows wild in large quantities, and is in many places the only fuel obtainable by travellers. ■\ . ../■, :,- / 'If ■■ ■ ■ - ■"■■' 'v . -^^.^ V ,..^^r- .■^-i ..■i..ilQQV-C*-5 43.— Karawal (Frontier outpost,) at Tangi, Tar in the Tliian Shan, 60 miles N. of Kashgar. ■ 44.— Group ^ Kaiti Aylak in the Artush District i k 9 \ f ( 24.1 •) ground; of both, kiang (wild horse) and wild y£k, * a good evidence of the excellence of the grass. The road has evidently been occasionally in use^ as it is marked in places where it might easily be lost in the snow by small stones placed in an upright position here and there on large rocks. My guide told me that he had only once travelled by it^ when accom- panying a very small caravan of not more than five or six ponies, on which occasion, there being a great deal of snow on the Sug^t Pass, through which they feared they would be unable to force their way^ they had resort to this alternative route to the Kfir&korum. I have never met another man who was acquainted with this road, and its existence appears generally unknown to the Bhots of Laddkh. I returned the following day to Sh^hidula (33 miles) visiting en route the jade mines between Gulbdshem and Bal&kchi. These have been described at length by the late Dr. Stoliczka. It was deemed advisable, that from Sh^hidula onwards all open survey or display of instru- ments on the road was to cease. Permission was given, however, for one of the most experienced and wary of the Pundits to take observations quietly with a small pocket com- pasS; with which he carried his route survey up to Ydrkand. I also made occasional observa- tions at night for latitude, so that a rough but tolerably correct survey of the road was obtained. On our return to India these restrictions were found to be unnecessary, and one of the Pundits proceeded from Y&rkand vid Sanju and Sh&hidula^ and without any attempt at concealment paced and re-surveyed the road carefully. When we left Y&rkand for K^hghar the Pundits were directed to remain behind, but one of them was permitted to follow a few days after, and made a very fairly accurate route survey up to Kfishghar, the others had to stay in Y&rkand until we left the country and returned (with the exception before mentioned of the man who went by Sanju and ShlUiidula) with the advanced baggage party under Tdr£ Sing, f vid the Kugiar and K&rdkorum route. They carried a route survey from Y&rkand up to Leh. The ground between Karghdlik and Kulunaldi (on the YArkand River below Kufelong) had never before been surveyed. The Pundit who followed us to Kishghar did some good work ; besides making an excursion with Tdra Sing to some of the neighbouring bazaars, whose position he was enabled to fix, he accompanied a party of the Mission on an excursion to the north of Kdshghar in the Altyn Artysh Districts, making a traverse survey of the road. He also went with Colonel Gordon's party to Sirikol (Tfishkurghan), and returned to Y&rkand by himself, diverging from the route by which he had come at Chehil Gomb&z, whence he proceeded by the direct road to Y&rkand, a distance of upwards of 100 miles, over ground that has never previously been sur- Ycyed. It was arranged for him to return to India vid Khotan, a journey he accomplished most successfully. Prior to leaving the country he paid a visit to the Sorghdk Gold Fields in latitude north 3 6^39' SI*' longitude 82°42' east of Greenwich, about 160 miles (by road) to the east of Khotan.^l Returning thence to Kiria he found his way back to India by Polu, Noh, and the Pangong Lake, a route running from one and a half to two degrees to the east of the most easterly route we have hitherto possessed, viz., that traversed in 1865 by Mr. W. H^ Johnson in his journey to Khotan. Details of the route followed by the Pundit are given in the Appendix, as are also his observations for latitude and height. Description of routes between Lddakh and Turkestan. It is not proposed to give here a detailed description of the lines of route followed by the members of the Mission on their travels between Ladakh and Eastern Turkestan, J but a brief comparison of the various lines of road between the two countries may not be uninter- esting. * A yak is a species of mountain ox which only lives at great altitudes, and is much used for the carriage of merchuidize over snow and ice. On ice they are &r more sure-footed than any other beasts of burden. t Treasurer to the Mission. 1 Details of the roads traversed by the members of the Mission will be found in Section G. of the Appendix to this Chapter. a33 ( 242 ) For practical purposes these routes may be divided into three, viz. — The Ekrkkorum route with variations (leading to Y^rkand). The Changchenmo route with variations (leading to Y^rkand and Khotan). The Budokh (or Changthang)^ route (leading to Khotan). The Karakorum route may be subdivided into two, the Zamist&ni or winter and the Tabistdni or summer road, and although these have a few marches and camping grounds in common, and cross the great water-shed between India and Central Asia at the same point, the K^r^korum Pass, yet they diverge from each other throughout the greater part of their courses. As a rule it may be laid down that the winter road passes wherever possible along and over the beds of rivers, which in the cold season contain but little water, and are generally frozen over : these streams, which form no obstacle in winter, are often impassable torrents in summer. It is therefore no matter of surprise that in spite of the intense cold and hard- ships of a winter journey the merchant often selects that season for his travels. The first great obstacle to be encountered after leaving Leh, both in summer and winter, is the well known Kail^s range, which is said to run in one unbroken line from the sources of the Indus to the junction of that river with the Shyok. Tq the north of Leh this range divides the drainage of these two rivers, and is one of the most formidable obstacles to be encountered by the traveller to Turkestan. In winter it is crossed by the Digar La t (17,930 feet above sea level), a very difficult pass, in crossing which it is necessaiy to employ either y^ks or men for the carriage of goods. A party of the Mission went over it in June, and even then there was snow lying on the top while ice and snow combined to render the passage difficult along a distance of some miles. The summer road crosses the Ehardung or Leh Pass,j: almost north of Leh, and is 17,900 feet in height. This Pass also is impracticable for laden ponies, and is so difficult that late in June on our return journey from Y^rkand, after descending the Nubra river, it was' deemed advisable to go a long detour vid the Digar Pass in order to avoid the still more formidable obstacles on the Khardung. This made the journey from Sati to Leh 42 miles instead of 29. After crossing the Kail^ range and entering the Shyok valley the traveller has now before him the g^eat Muz-tagh§ or K&r^korum Range. In the winter by following the narrow, winding, and difficult valley of the Shyok river he reaches the Kdr&korum Pass, a distance of 114 miles ; in the course of this portion of the journey the frozen surface of the stream has to be crossed no less than 86 times. In winter this can easily be done, as it is generally bridged by snow and ice, but in summer owing to the floods caused by the melting glaciers an entirely different route has to be adopted, and instead of ascending the Shyok the traveller descends that river to a short distance below Sati and then ascends the Nubra river, a large tributary fed from glaciers in the same mountain mass that supplies the Shyok. The Shyok is crossed in boats near Sati, where in the summer it is a very large and rapid river. Passengers and goods are carried over in boats, while the baggage animals are made to swim across. Many of the latter are drowned in crossing. Ascending the Nubra valley, one of the most fertile and richly cultivated in Ladakh, the traveller goes as far as Changlung (10,760 feet), almost the highest village in the valley, and situated about 40 miles above Sati. The merchant generally takes this bit very easily, advancing by short marches of ten miles each, in order to make the most of the supplies of grain and excellent lucerne grass, both of which are here obtained in abundance. The caravans from Y^rkand often halt a week at Panamik (a large and flourishing village a few miles below Changlung) to feed and rest the baggage animals after the hard work and scant fare that they have had on the journey. It is here that on the outward journey the real difficulties of the m arch commence. Instead of following one stream right up to its source in the K£r£korum Pass, as is done in the winter route, the traveller has first of all to cross a * Chaogthang, in the Thibetan language means ' northern plain." t " La " is the Thibetan word for " Pass." X Sometimes also called " Laoche La." § In Turki " Muz-tagh " means " Ice Mountain " and " Karakorum " is the equivalent of " Black gravel." ( 243 ) very high and precipitous hill just above Changlung village. The road ascends by a zigzag and rises rather more than 4^000 feet in a length of about five miles^ the stiffest bit of ascent on the whole journey to Yarkand. After reaching the top of the Karawal Pass (so called from a karawal or otitpost erected many years go at this spot to enable the Ladakhis to defend their country from invasion from the north) the road descends into the Sdser stream and then passes up it to the S^ser La^ a pass over a mighty ridge covered with snow and glaciers which runs down from the great mountain mass forming the eastern extremity of the so-called Kdr&korum Range and separates the waters of the Nubra^ from those of the Shyok. This pass (17^820 feet) is one of the most difficult on the whole road^ and is rarely, if ever, free from snow, while the road passes through, over, and alongside of glaciers for many miles.f The road from the top of the pass follows the bank of a stream which enters the Shyok River at Saser Polu, a halting place on the winter road. The Shyok is here crossed with difficulty, as is proved by the fact that two Ladakhis were drowned there when returning from laying out sup- plies for our return journey. The road now ascends a tributary stream on the left bank of the Shyok crosses a low pass^ and at Mnrghi Camp joins another stream which flows from the Dipsang plains into the Shyok River. It was at this point, at a height of 15,200 feet, that the late Dr. Stoliczka breathed his last, after having traversed the K^r&orum Pass and the perhaps still more trying Dipsang plains which rise to an elevation of about 18,000 feet above the sea. The intense cold of this bleak and dreary waste prevents this route from being adopted in winter, during which season the caravans follow the Shyok River from Saser Polu up to Daulat Beguldi (Turki for '^ Daulat Beg died,'' an appropriate name for so desolate a spot) . This camp, which is situated in the north-west comer of the Dipsang plain, marks the junction of the winter and summer routes, which unite here, and cross the Kir&korum Pass 11 miles above the camp, continuing together a distance of 40 miles further to Ak-t^h. The Kdr^korum Pass, though 18,650 feet above the sea, is by no means so formidable an obstacle as is generally sup- posed. It is always free from glaciers, and in summer from snow. The ascent on both sides is gentle, and the road good, so that, although it forms the water-shed between Hindust^ and Central Asia, it is less of an obstacle to the merchant than the Digar, the Khardung, the Saser or the Sanju Passes. From it the road passes along the EL^r&korum stream (one of the head- waters of the Ydrkand River) to Ak-t^gh, traversing the comparatively open ground on the west of the Earat^gh % plain. At Ak-Sgh the roads again diverge, the winter route con- tinues down the Yarkand river, which is crossed 18 times between Ak-t£gh and Kulunaldi,§ a distance of 74 miles. At the latter place this road ascends the range that was called by Hay- ward the western ''Kuen Luen,'' and crosses it by the Yangi-Diwan (or "New Pass," 16,000 feet) into the Tizn^ River, which it follows for 41 miles to Chiklik. The road is here taken over one of the northern spurs of the Kuen Luen by the "Tupa''|| or Ak-Korum Pass (10,470 feet), whence it descends along the banks of a gently sloping stream to Kugiar, a considerable village (containing 400 or 500 houses) on the borders of the plains of Eastern Turkestan, and 41 miles distant from Karghalik, a large town situated at the junction of the Zamist&ni {via Kugiar), and the Tabistdni {via S^nju) routes. It was by the Kugiar road that the Mission returned to India. The road had been closed for several years previously by order of the Yarkand authorities owing to the risk to which travellers were exposed of being plundered and sold into slavery by the wild Kanjud robbers (of Hanza and Nagar), who coming down from their fastnesses to the north of Biinji and Gilgit used to render the whole valley of the Yarkand * At the head of the Nubra valley a road passes over the main Kar&korum chaiii by the Chorbut Pass and descends into the T^kand river at Khnfelong. It was formerly much used by the Baltistan merchants, but is now rare}y employed. It is probably not less than 19,000 feet high, and is always closed for at least nine months in the year, and is at no times practicable for laden animals. t On the re^m journey of the Mission several hundreds of coolies were employed for some weeks in preparing the road over this pass. X "Karatagh"=" Black Mountain." § "Kulunaldi"="the wfld horse died." II In Turki Tupa means "hill," and Ak-Korum "white gravel." ( 24A ) River from Kulunaldi up to Ak-tAgh, utterly unsafe for travellers or merchants unless in large parties and well armed.^ It was in the month of June that the Pamir party returned by the Kug^ar route some- what too late in the season to traverse it with safety^ and considerable danger was incurred from the daily increasing floods of the Tiznaf River^ which after noon used to come down with such force as frequently to close the road. At this season also the southern slopes of the Yancfi- Diw^n (Pass) are very difiicult to traverse and somewhat dangerous, as the recently dead bodies of numerous baggage animals seen by us on the return journey too surely testified. The floods of the Tiznaf are probably worse in June and July than at any other time of the year, as after that period the snow on the lower mountains has nearly all been melted. The l^rkand River, on the other hand, above Kulunaldi, being fed more generously by glacier streams is more difficult later on in the hot weather. We found that although there was a much larger body of water in the Yirkand than in the Tiznaf River, yet in the former the bed was broad and level, ancl was crossed without difficulty ; whereas in the Tiznaf the bottom is narrow and generally composed of large stones and boulders which render its passage very difficult.t The road crossed it nearly 20 times in one march, or about once in every linear mile of its course. A month earlier in the season (May) the river was frozen and was ascended by an advanced party of natives without difficulty. 42. Returning to Ak-t^gh, the point of divergence of the two routes, the summer road passes thence over a spur of the Kuen Luen by the Suget, a tolerably easy pass (17,610 feet), from which the road descends along a winding stream to the K&t&k&Bh river which it strikes a few miles above Sh£hidula4 At Shdhidula the E^r^Qdsh river winds through the Kuen Luen Range. § The road follows along it for some 20 miles, and occasionally crosses it. In summer its passage is effected by merchants with considerable difficulty. The K^r^k&sh flows in the direction of Khotan, and between the river and Ydrkand lies a formidable spur from the Kuen Luen, which has to be crossed. The traveller, if he be here unfettered by political obligations, has the choice of three roads before him, viz., by the Kilik, the Kilian, and the S^jii passes. Traders are seldom or never allowed to use the former which is said to be the easie^ and * Note. — These robbera, apparently from fear of the Kishghar Amir, have of recent years ceased to infest this road, but it is renorted that since the return of the Mission from Yarkand, the Kuniudis have attacked a nomadic tribe called Phakpos, who inhabit numerous yaUevs on the west bank of the Tiznaf river. The road by which these robbers advance must pass over numerous glaciers, and crosses the Kar^korum range by the Shing- shal Pass, a short distance to the west of the Shigar or Muztagh Pass. The road from Shingshal descends the Kum stream and joins the road from the Muztagh Pass at a distance of one and a half marches to the north of the latter. After three short marches more the Yarkand Biver is reached at Dahn-i-Bazar Darah, three short marches below Kulunaldi (on the same river), a frequently used halting place on the road between Kar&korum Pass and Kugiar. The Shingshal Pass is said to be easier than either the Chhorbut or the Shigar Passes, and is at times passable by laden horses. The Muztagh Pass (which was estimated by Godwin Austen at 18,400 feet, and by the > Or DBtiYM of BaitiBUn, b monntoinoiu Schlagentweits at 19,000 feet) road lies for a great distance over fflsiciera» cUstrlctiDhAbitodbr shiah M^aiiii«iii,and and is difficult and dangerous. It is occasionally used by the ^altis,^ lying to tiie north-west o LadaUu ^^^ j^^^ ^ colony in Yarkand, and who traverse this pass when return- ing thence to their own countiy. t On one occasion during the return journey, when I had gone on a couple of days ahead of Colonel Qordon's party so as to have more time for survey, I had, in order to insure security from water, placed my chronometers in my pockets instead of in the mule trunks where they were usually carried. It was the first time that I had done so, and as ill-luck would have it, I twice got parted from my horse in deep water while searching for a ford, and had to swim for my life with my chronometers in my pocKet. On the same occasion my horses and bageage animals were cat off from all supplies by the floods, and were for more than 36 hours withoat tasting food. 1 Note, — At Shahidiila is a small fort which during the time of the disturbances in Eastern Turkestan (which resulted in the accession of the present King) was occupied by k detachment of the Maharaja's troops from Kashmir. These were subsequently withdrawn and the place is now generally recognized as oelonging to the Kashghar ruler. The Kirghiz of Sanju have of late years constantly occupied the Karakash valley up as far as the gpreat bend above Sora, and occasionallv ascend some of the valleys to the south, leading up to the Karatagh plain ; in many of these valleys there is abundance of grass and wood. § Dividing it aooording to Hayward's nomenclatuie into Eastern and Western Kaen Luen. ( 245 ) shortest ; it follows the coarse of the Toghra, a considerable stream which enters the Kirikish nine miles below Sh^hidula. The floods of this stream in hot weather often detain travellers a considerable time on its banks. The Kilik Diwan (Pass) is crossed in the 3rd or 4th march from Shdhidula^ and after going over another low pass the road joins the Kugiar route at Beshterek^ one dajr'g march to the south of Kargh^lik ; little is known of this road, but it is said that grass and wood are to be found at every stage. It was once much used by the Baltistan merchants who are settled in Y&rkand. Nearly three miles below where the Togra-su enters the K^rak^sh River is the fort of Ali Nazar^ where the Kilian road leaves the Karakash valley and passes up an open ravine in a north-west direction. This road is sometimes used in the summer as an alternative to that over the S^njti Pass ; it is somewhat higher than the Sin ju Pass^ but, although imprac- ticable for laden horses^ is not so difficult to traverse. The Kilian pass is crossed in the second day after leaving the K&rak&sh. The road follows the stream from the pass for four marches when it debouches into the Turkestan plain at the village of Kilian^ two marches to the south of Bora on the road between Sanju and Rargh&lik.'^ The third and most frequented road from Sh&hidula is via Sinju. It leaves the K^r&k&sh 20 miles below Shdhidula at Maz&r Abu Bakar, from which place the road ascends to the summit of the S£nju (also happily named ^'Grim^') pass which, although not more than 16,700 feet above sea level, was decidedly the most difficult obstacle encountered by the mission on the road to Y£rkand.t Its summit is never free from snow and ice, and is impassable by laden ponies. Yaks have always to be used and are collected from all quarters for the passage of a large caravan. From the pass the road descends to the Sinjii or Sarikia River, which it follows to the large and scattered village pf Sinju, on the borders of the Great Turkestan Plain. Occasionally in the hot season the S&nju River is so flooded in its lower course as to become impassable, in which case a detour is made by a road which crosses a small spur by the Chuchu Pass (11,800 feet), after which it follows the Arpalek stream to near Sinju. Thence a good and level road leads to Yirkand, a distance of 12,2, miles, and meets the Kilian route at Bora, and the Kilik and Kugiar routes at Karghilik. Returning now to the Changchenmo route from Leh to Turkestan, on this also the Kail£s range has to be crossed, but further to the east than on the Karakorum route. The road ascends the Indus for 20 miles^ and then goes up a tributary stream for 13 miles to Zingprdl, from which place the range may be crossed either by the Chang La (17,600 feet), or the Kay La (17,900 feet). By the former and easier road of the two it is 23 miles from Zingral to the large village of Tankse, situated on one of the tributaries of the Shyok River. By the Kay La foot passengers shorten the road by some six miles. The roads over both passes, although free from glaciers, are very dfficult ; and it is usual, although not absolutely necessaiy, to employ yaks in carrying goods across. T£nkse is the last place on this road where supplies are procurable, and is, by the shortest route, 350 miles from Sinjii, the^first large village encountered in Turkestan. For the whole of this distance supplies of grain, both for men and horses, have to be carried, and at a great many halting places neither grass nor fire-wood is procurable. From Tankse after passing Lukong at the head of the Pangong Lake, the road crosses a lofty mass of mountains, by the Lankar or Marsemik La (18,400 feet), a very high but in summer by no means a difficult pass. It is free from glaciers, and generally clear of snow during the summer and early autumn. Descending into the Changchenmo valley and crossing the stream, a tributary of the Shyok, the road ascends a minor stream to a point eight miles beyond Gogra, from which there is a choice of three different roads all leading on to the Ling-zi-thungt Plains. The most westerly path ascends the Changlung Pangtung Pass (18,900 feet), crosses the corner of the plateau and descends into a deep ravine running along the stony and very difficult bed of a stream§ (which ultimately finds its way into the Shyok River), ascends again, and skirts the * In former years the Kilian would appear to have been the most frequented route, but it is now little used. t Several mules were lost here, although their loads had aU been transferred to yaks. 1 or Ak-sai Chin. ^ The march down this ravine was one of the most trying encountered during the outward journey. a34 r ( 246 ) western border of the gently undulating Ling-zi-thung Plain) ^ in traversing which the trayeller crosses, almost without knowing it, the water-shed between India and Central Asia. After passing the water-shed the road crosses a small stream, one of the head waters ot, the K&r&k&sh, and then goes over a spur (Komp£s La) 18,160 feet in height and descends into the bed of Kdr&kdsh River, which it strikes, at an elevation of 17,400 feet above the sea and follows to Kizil Jilga. The portion of the road between the Changlung Pass and Kizil Jilga is perhaps the most trying part of this route. The great elevation and consequent bitter cold is much aggravated by frequent snow tod a piercing wind which blows from morning to night; the long dreary marches cause one to arrive, after dark, at camps where there are scant supplies of fuel and no grass; occasional ice beds block up the whole road, one of these extends for three miles down the K&r&kdsh River; all combine to try most severely both man and beast. At Kizil Jilga the road just described joins an alternative road (taken by Captain Biddulph on the outward journey), which, leaving the usual route a few miles north of Gogra, crosses the Changlung Banna Pass (10,300 feet) on to the Ling-zi-thung plains, along wUch it passes at a still higher elevation than the western road. It descends into the Kdriik&sh River at Kizil Jilga ; the greater elevation makes this road perhaps even more trying than the western route. The third route from Gogra before alluded te leaves the Changlung valley 8 miles above Gogra and the Ling-zi-thung plain may be reached by either the Changlung Banna or the Changlung Yokma Pass a little further to the east, and of about the same elevation. This is the pass taken by Mr. (now Sir Douglas) Forsyth in his first mission to Yilrkand. By it, the road followed by Captain Biddulph (striking the Kdrdk^sh Rivg: at Kizil Jilga) may be joined, but a more northerly route passing over a succession of elevated plains was taken by the former mission, and the K&rikish River was met a few miles above Sora at the sudden bend that the river taJces when ite course is turned towards the west (in north lat. 85^ 55') by the Kuen Luen Range. From this point the road followed the River te Sh^hidula. In addition to the intense cold the principal objection to all three routes skirting or passing over the Ling«zi-thung (also called Aksai Chin) is the extreme elevation at which the traveller has to remain for so many marches : the cattle are exhausted by this, and too frequently suffer in addition, from the pangs of hunger and thirst. These di^culties nearly brought the first mission to Y^rkand to a disastrous end, and the same causes have proved, and will probably continue to prove, sufficient to deter the experienced merchant from following this road. The older, shorter, and better known route by the Kdr^korum is likely always to be preferred by the merchant even in summer, whereas in winter an attempt to traverse the Ling-zi-thung plains must almost always result in disaster. From Kizil Jilga the road follows the Kar^klsb River to Chong Tash (or " Great Stone''). From this point the eastern variation, taken by Captain Biddulph, follows the K^rdk^sh River right down to Sh^hidula, a distance of 166 miles, wlyle the western or more direct road is only 113 miles in length, and although in the latter there are two high passes viz., the Kdr^tdgh (17,700) and the Suget (17,600) to be crossed en route, yet they are neither of them difficult ones. The Sug^t Pass may be avoided by going over the lower and still easier pass of Fotash by which the Kiv&k&sh. River is struck one march above Gulbashem. In the circuitous line from Chong-tash down the Kirik&sh, the road is bad, but there is the advantage of plentiful supplies of grass and fuel which are almost altogether wanting on the K&Titigh line. The Ling-zi-thang routes meet the K&r&korum summer route at Aktdgh or at Shdhidula according as the western or eastern variation is adopted. At the angle formed by the K&t&kish. River above Sora, when turned by the Kuen Luen range, the traveller can proceed to Khotan direct (a distance of 160 miles or 1 1 marches) by crossing the Kuen Luen Range by the Yangi or Elchi Diwan (crossed by Mr. Johnson in his journey to Khotan in 1865), and estimated by him at 19,500 feet in height; after passing this there is another formidable glacier pass, the Naia Khaa (height 18,659 accord- ing to Johnson) which has to be crossed before reaching the plains. The Elchi Diwan is said to be open for only three months in the year. r,v.- [ ( 24.7 ) I On the Kardk^sh River above Fotash is a camping ground called Samgal, from which Robert Schlagintweit crossed the Kuen Luen range by the Hindu-tdsh Pass, estimated by him at 17,379 feet high. At the top of this Pass is a glacier much crevasaed and extremely steep. It is a long and difficult march from its foot, to the village of Bushia, where are numerous tents and caves occupied by Kirghiz, and where supplies can be obtained in large quantities. It is eight marches thence to Khotan and the road is described as bad. The road by the Hindu-tdsh Pass cau only be used by foot passengers. From all accounts the ordinary trade route between Khotan and Lidakh in former years was, as at present, vid the S&nju and Karakorum Passes. The road from Khotan follows that to Y£rkand as far as Zanguia, whence a road goes to S&njii village direct. Another road from Shahidiila to Khotan lies down the KirSkish River, and, going over an easy pass, emerges at Diiba,^ a large village said to lie about 20 miles to the south-west of Pi&lma (on the Khotan and Ydrkand road.) The road down the KiT&kish can only be used in mid winter. We now come to consider the extreme eastern route, vid the Chang-thang or " Northern plain.'^ Of this road we have a survey by Kishen Sing Pundit, one of the most important geographical results secured by the mission.f Details will be found in Appendix, Section G., and the road itself is shown on the map accompanying this report. A traveller from Leh to Khotan might follow the route by the Pangong Lake, along which the Pundit travelled, but he would more probably take a short cut from Lukong to the Mangtza Lake, following the ordinary Changchenmo route to Y&rkand as far as the point where that road leaves the Changchenmo vaUey. Passing up the latter, he would make his way eastward to its head, where an easy pass is known to exist leading on to the high table land beyond. By adopting this road he would save fortr miles over the more circuitous road by Noh. From Mangtza the road lies over a series of high plateaux varying from 16 to 17,000 feet in height, crossed here and there by low ridges which rise somewhat irregularly from the Bur&ce of the plain which contains numerous lakes, most of them brackish. In latitude 85° T north the Pundit crossed at a height of but little more than 17,000 feet the water-shed of a snowy range, which may perhaps be the true eastern continuation of the Kuen Luen. From the north of the pass the Kiria stream takes its rise ; the road follows down it as far as Arash (16,000 feet), but again ascends to the Ghubolik plain, which (17,000 feet above the sea) connects the snowy range just alluded to with another somewhat lower range to the north. This last ridge is a buttress of the vast Thibetan plateau, and in descending the Polu stream from the Ghubolik. At Diwan I (17,500 feet) to Polu, a distance of ^8 miles (including windings), there is a fall of about 9,000 feet. Polu is a small village in the Khotan district and from it Khotan (or Ilchi) city may be reached either by the direct road (by Chihar Imim) which skirts the feet of spurs from th^ elevated plateau above, or the traveller may proceed down the stream to Kiria by the route followed by the Pundit. Throughout the whole of the road from Khotan to Leh traversed by the Pundit fuel was abundant everywhere, and there was only one stage where there was not a good supply of grass. These facts would indicate the line as one well adapted for the native merchant, to whom time is of no great value. As far as I can learn however from enquiry it never has been used as a trade route on a large scale, the chief reason I believe being fear of the Chang-pas$ or Tagh-lik, wandering tribes of Tartars, nominally subject to the Chinese officials at Gurtokh and Rudokh, but probably practically only so far subject to them that they would abstain from committing violent aggression on parties travelling imder the protection of those authorities. * Daba is shown on EUproth's map as a large place about half way between Z&w& and S&njd. t The only previous account we have, of this road is one deriyed from native information supplied by Mr. B. B. Shaw, and which was published in the proceedings of the B. 0. S., No. III. of 1872. This account agrees remarkably weU with that given by the Pi^ndit, and every march can be followed on the large scale map I have before me as I write. { Or " Sulphur Horse Pass" so called from its being used by the Polu people when bringing sulphur to Khotan. Sulphur is excavated in large quantities from the ground near the lake m the Ghubolik plain. § Chang-pa in Thibetan means Nord^man while the Turki name for the same people is TagkUk, ue. Mountaineer, ( 248 ) Habibula^ who was elected King of Khotan when the (/hinese were tamed out of the country^ sent messengers to try and open up this route in, 1864. They were seized by the Chang- pa and compelled to return to Khotan with the threat that any subsequent explorers would be put to death. The inhabitants of Keria and Folu go as far south as Ghubolik to procure sulphur. They also go west of this towards the head of the Yurung-Kash (or Ilchi; River where they search for gold and jade^ but it would appear that although the Khotanese claim the country up to Lake Yeshil Kul^ the head of the Ki^a River^ as their boundary^ yet practically from fear of the Chang-pas they never go quite so far to the south. On the other hand the Chang-pas who probably have equal reason to fear the Turks from the plains^ would appear not to wander further north than Kikong Chumik^ the ridge to the north of which separates their grazing grounds from plains on the norths through which flows a considerable stream^ passed by the Pundit, asserted by his g^de to be the head of the Yurung-Kash Biver.''^ It would thus appear that owing to the mutual hostility of the two races there is a large tract of neutral ground which is never occupied by one or the other, extending from Rikong Chumik to Ohubolik ; here the Pundit saw large herds of jik, antelope, and jungle sheep (ove9 ammon), whic^ had apparently never been scared by the sight of man. Near Rikong Chumik were the remains of numerous huts ; others were frequently seen along the road, but fortunately for the Pundit, he did not meet or see a single human being between Ohubolik and Noh, a distance of 24'4< miles, a circumstance which enabled him to complete his route survey up to Nohf without interruption. The newly acquired knowledge of this road may perhaps lead to important practical results, but not until our relations with the Chinese Empire, and their too independent subordinates in Thibet^ are placed on a more satisfactory footing than they are at present. It is apparent by combining the results of this survey with other information collected by the Survey Pundits during the past few years, that a road exists between the plains of Hindustan and Turkestan which entirely avoids the territories of the Maharaja of Cashmere, and which in the summer months may be traversed without once crossing snow^ or without encountering one really difficult pass, such as we know to exist on the Karakorum and Changchenmo routes. Leaving the plains of India at the ancient city of Najibabad (between Uurdwar and Moradabad), the starting point of the old Royal Road stated by Moorcroft to have crossed these same mountain systems, a good road about 210 miles in length, and only crossing one low pass,^ leads to the Niti Pass (16,676 feet high) over the main Himalayan range. Descending from the Niti Pass, due north into the Sutlej valley, and crossing that river at Totling (12,200 feet) by the iron suspension bridge still existing (said according to local tradition to have been constructed by Alexander the Oreat), and crossing by the Bogo La (19,210 feet) into the Indus valley at Oartokh (14,240 feet), the road would then follow that river to Demchok.§ Thence it would go over the Jara Pass due north to Rudokh and Noh, and by the newly surveyed route to Polu and Khotan. Estimating the distance from Najibabad to the Niti Pass at 210 miles, thence to Noh at 275, and from Noh to Khotan [via Keria) 446 miles, we have a total distance of 981 miles * In the map which has been prepared for sabmission with this report I have not shown this stream as flowing into Turung-Kash, but I thmk it not at all improbable that it may find its way through a sap which I have left in the Kuen Luen (Just between the letters £. and N. of Luen). I would have inserted it, but it hardly appears consistent with Mr. Johnson's statements as to what he saw when ascending these Kuen Li^en peaks in 1865, although, on the other hand, the fact that the river he crossed at Karangolak was a very large and rapid stream would mdicate that it probably came from a considerable distance ; knowing also as a &ct how the Karakash cuts through the same range at Shahidula and how extremely difficult it is to form an accurate idea of any mountain ranee when viewed from a single point, I am inclined to regret that I did not show this stream in my map as the head waters of the Tnrung-Eash or River of £[hotan. t From Noh he tried to get to Rudokh, but was not permitted to do so ; in fact the inhabitants tried to com- pel him to return by the way he had come, and it was with gpreat difficulty that he at last got permission to go to Leh direct. Anticipating a search by the first people he should encounter, he had, when nearing the village of Noh, concealed his instruments and papers in a bush. He was duly searched, but of course nothing was found, and he aflerwards succeeded in again getting possession of his valuables. In Thibet the great difficulty en- countered bv persona entering in disguise is always on the frontier, where the examination is very strict When once allowed to pass into the interior of the country there is little to fear. X The Langar Pass 6,500 feet high which is on the 3rd day's march from the plains. § A more direct route exists from Totling vi& Dankhar to Demchok. ( 249 ) between Najibabad and Khotan^ and this even might be considerably shortened by taking the direct road £rom Polu to Khotan. [The ancient Royal road probably followed the abov^ to the suspension bridge at Totling^ and thence to Budokh and Noh^ whence a road now exists which passes vid the head of the Changohenmo valley and Nischo into the Ling-zi-thung plains^ down the E^r£k£sh river and over the Sinju Pass to Sinjd (or Sarikia)'^ which is half way between Y&rkand and Khotan.] Summarizing our knowledge of the lengths of the various physically practicable routes from Hindustan to Turkestan we find that the distances are : — lilies. From AmritBir to Leh w^ Bawtd Find! and Srinagar ... ... ... 635 yi to ff vid Kangra ... ... ... • ... ... 622 „ to ,t f^id Sealkote and Cashmere ... ... ... ... 675 From Leh to Tarkand tnd Ling-zi-thung and Karakash Biver ... ... ... 684 „ t^ Chanffchenmo and Karatfl^h ... ... ... 627 „ ifid KaraKorom Pass and Sanju (summer route) ... ... 445 „ f^id Earakorum and Kugiar (winter route) ... ... 472^ f* n »» i» „ ,f „ ei^ Noh, Polu, and Khotan ... ... ... ... 839 „ „ Khotan vid Karakorum and Sanju ... ... ... ... 415 » II 19 II „ vid LinK-zi-tibung and Mchi Pass (Mr. Johnson's route) ... 437 „ f7»4 Noh, Polu, and Kiria ... ^ ... ... ^ ... 637 Amritsar to Yarkand by the road followed by the Mission, i,e., vid £awul Pindi, Srinagar, Leh and the summer Karakorum route ... ... ... 1,080 „ N^jihabad to Khotan ot4 the Niti Pass and Western Thibet ... ... 931 At some distant day it is not impossible that the last named road may form the highway to Turkestan^ but as long as Europeans are rigorously excluded from Western Thibet we cannot hope that this consummation will be realized. Excursiom in the neighbourhood of Kdahghar. During the winter at K&shghar I was permitted to make two excursions in the neigh- bourhoodi both of which have enabled me to add something to our geographical knowledge. The second trip was over ground^ which^ as &kr as I am aware^ has never hitherto been explored^ and is very incorrectly represented on existing maps. During the first of these trips^ which occupied us from the 31st December to 10th January^ Dr. Stoliczka and myself^ under the orders of Colonel Oordon^ visited the Russian frontier at Lake Chadyr Kul, about 110 miles north-west by north of K&hghar. We had hoped^ from the extreme point reached by us^ to have struck ofE to the Terekty Pass on the east^ and to have returned by the Terekty Forts to E&shghar. Unfortunately difficulties were placed in the way of our doing this^ and we had to return to K&hghar by the same road that we went. Prior to starting^ permission was g^ven by the Amir for me to use my instruments on the road^ and I may here mention that from this time forward during the whole of my stay in Kdshghar territory I was at liberty to use openly what instruments I chose. Of course a certain amount of caution was necessary. Many of the officials with whom I came in contact were doubtless very suspicious as to what it all meant^ yet in no case did any one attempt to hinder my taking observations or notes^ although in many cases they endeavoured to neutralize the value of my work by giving me false information on geographical subjects. I allude to this * The three points that have indicated this as the line of Royal Boad are : — 1«^.— Moorcroft's statement that the road started from Najibabad and emerged in the Turkestan plains at Sarikia (which I identify with Sa^ju) halfway between T4rkand and Khotan. 2nd. — The existence of an iron suspension brid|^e at Totling said to have been constructed hy Alexander the Oreat (vide Migor Montgomerie's Beport on Trans-Himalayan explorations made during 1867). 3n2. — The statement made by Muhammed Amin, "Pui\iab Trade Beport^ Appendix lYA." that — ''the old route taken by Moghul conquerors from Tashkend towards Chrna passed through the Aksai Chin. Traces of it are still seen." a35 • f • 26 • • « 20 • •* 20 • •« 10 • • « 15 • • • 32 • • « 25 ( 250 ) matter^ once for all^ as one which gave me much trouble and annoyance during the whole of my stay and trayels in Eastern Turkestan."^ It must not be supposed^ however^ that because I was given permission to use instounents I have been able to turn out very accurate surveys of the countries traversed. The rapidity with which we have always travelled has made it impossible for me to do more than cany on a con- tinuous route survey^ checked by frequent astronomical observations taken at night ; and even this is sometimes meagre and incomplete owin^ to the intense cold which we experienced throughout almost the whole of our travels, which made even the handling of a prismatic compass at times an impossibility ; this, coupled with the shortness of the winter days, the occasional exccessive length of the marches, many of them through snow, and the necessity on these trips of always cutting down both the baggage and the limited establishment of camp servants with which I originally started, must be held to excuse any incompleteness in the maps that I furnish. During our first excursion the marches we made were as follows :— - Miles, From Yaiigi-Hi806r (K&shgliar) to — 1. Bes&k (Upper Art jsh District) 2. Chung Terek ... 3. Chakmik Forts 4. Balghun B&shi 5« Tmgftt Bela ... • . . 6. To Targat Pass and hill above Chadyr Kul and back to (5) 7. Back to Chalsmak and back to E^hghar by the same road. I suceeded, with no little difficulty, in keeping up a continuous route survey, and took observations for latitude at four points on the line of march, the most northerly being at Turgat Bela (north lat. 40^ 23' 53^) on whioh occasion, while observ-^ ing, the thermometer stood at 10^ below zero (Fahrenheit), and an intensely bitter wind was blowing. Later on the same 9ight the thermometer fell to 26^, while inside the aioecj (Kirghiz tent) where we slept, it was as low as 8^^, a temperature hardly adapted for carrying on an elaborate Survey .f We left Yangi-shahr (the new city of K&shghar) and, going northwards, crossed the Biver Kizil by a good woodeh bridge. At a distance of 5^ miles we passed on oar left the old city of Kiishghar, beyond which we crossed the Biver Taman by another bridge. This stream passes immediately to the north of the town, and joins the Kizil at a short distance to the east, the two forming the K^hghar Darya. At the time we passed there was but little water in either stream, that little being frozen, so tbat it was impossible to form any idea of the size of the vast mass of water that must come down in the summer time. The left bank of the Taman is covered by tanneries and cemeteries; the road runs nearly north and enters a narrow lane between two mud walls, on either side of which are enclosed gardens, fields, and hovels. These continue for some four miles, when the road emerges on to an open stony plain forming a very gently rising slope up to a small spur from a low range of hills running nearly due east and west, through a gap in which, formed by the river Artysh, the road passes. On the north side of the range is the wide and fertile valley of the Artysh, a name given to * I may mention that in Kashghar I had heen questioning a sepo^, who professed to know all about the Alai and adjacent country, on the subject of the supposed double issue from Lake Karakul. He positively assured me that the waters from it flowed west into the Oxus. A few days subsequentlyf when talking on the same sul^ect, he assured me with equal confidence that be had seen the place, and uiat its waters flowed east to Kashghiur. He subsequently admitted that he had never been within 60 miles of the lake I t It may be imagined that taking observations in the open, to stars, with the thermometer standing below Zero, is not a very pleasant occupation. After handling the instarument for a short time, sensation, so flu- as one's flngers are concerned, ceases, and during a set of observations it is necessary to rush fireouentiy into the adjacent tent to restore drciilation over a fire. The recorder, on such occasions nurses the hana lantern with great care, and although the ink is placed inside the lantern, yet it would freeze on the pen between the hintem and the paper. I was eventually oUiged to allow a pencil to be used on such occasions. My faithfrd Madras servant " Francis " also experienced no littie difficulty in getting the lamps to bum properly. The oil becomes very thick from the cold. The air holes had to be carefrillv enlaiged for high altitudes, so that while admitting more air, they might still be small enough to prevent the high winds which wera fr^ueiitiy blowing, from extinguishing the light. ( 251 ) the whole district^ which consists of several small townships scattered over the valley^ in one of whichj B6s6k, some five miles beyond where we crossed the river^ we put up for the night. From Bes&k our road lay for a few miles over fields lying in the broad Artysh valley^ but we soon entered that of the Toyanda River, which flows from the Turgat Pass. This stream divides into two branches at the place where it debouches into the Artysh plain—* the upper one flows nearly due east, and is extensively used in irrigating the fertile valley ; the south or main branch flows into the Biver Artysh,"^ which passes along the south side of the valley, and after being joined by the Toyanda stream, cuts through the hills to the south at the gap alluded to in the preceding paragraph. On entering the Toyanda valley, here about two miles wide, we may be said to have &irly entered the Thien Sh^ mountains, the hills we had traversed on our previous day's journey being an isolated ridge. In marching up this open valley we had in view on our left the sharp serrated edges of the Ming-yol Hill, a prominent object in the panoramic view from the roof of the Embas^buildings in K^hghar; in front of us lay a range of snow-covered peaks also visible from K&hghar; these formed part of a small range running parallel to the main chain (east to west). We passed the old Chinese outpost of Teshek T&sh, or Khitai Kar&wal, and a little beyond it the village of Tupa, (or Tapii) near which place through a large ravine on the left, is a road said to come from Kizil-boya, a fort near the head of the Elshngar Biver. A little further on through a broad open valley we reached the picturesque camping ground of Chung Terek, a Kirghiz village, where were a number of akoees pitched for our reception. From this place the scenery gets much bolder and the road passes between precipitious hills rising to a height of some 8,000 feet above the valley, through which a march of 20 miles brought us to the ChaJonik Forts ; the road goes steadily up hill, a gentle and r^^ar ascent which continues all the way up to the Turgat Pass, and is passable by laden camels even in " mid-winterr^' Eight miles short of Chakm&k we came across the " Mirza Terek,'' " Past Kurghdn," or '' lower fort," a carefully constructed work, which would prove a serious obstacle to an advancing foe. ^ere as is the case at Chakm&k, the overhanging heights are so precipitous and inaccessible that it would be almost impossible for an enemy to elEect a lodg- ment. The road across the Bussian frontier by the Turgat Pass is good, and the slope easy. The road right up to the crest of the Pass was entirely free from snow.f On the slopes near the Pass is an almost inexhaustible supply of grass. There are two roads over this range of hills converging on a point a few miles north of the Chakm&k forts— one from the Suyok Pass, two days' journey in a north-west direction, is little more than a path, and cannot be traversed hj horsemen ; but the other from the Turgat Pass, about 80 miles to the north of the junction (Suyok Kar-wai), is now the main caravan road between Eashghar and the Bussian settlement of Alm&ti (Fort yernoye)^ and may be said to be practicable all the year roimd, although somewhat more difficult perhaps in summer, when there is mwsh more w^ter in the Biver Toyanda, which has to be crossed some forty times in the course of the journey. The SOTok Pass is stated on Bussian authority to be 12,800 feet above sea level. A fort called i agachak, covers some road in the direction of the Pass, west of Chakmdk, but the accounts of its positioii were so vague fmd discordant, that I was unable to fix its position even approximately. A road along a ravine fibout half-way between Chakmik and the Past Kurgh&n was said to lead to it. Along a ravine lying to the south of the Chakmiik forts a road runs across the hills, connecting them with the Terekty Fort, nearly due north of Eashghar. It lies on the shortest road between^e N&ryn Fort (Bussian) and Efisnghar vtd the Bogushta and the Terekty Passes. For 26 miles above Chakm&k, the road took us along the cpurse of the frozen stream^ passing through volcanic rocks, to Turgat Bela, a little short of which the nature of the coun- try alters, and the precipitous hills are replaced by gently undulating grassy slopes abounding * The Artyah Biver is said to rise near the Terek Diwaa, on the road between Kaahghar and Khokand, t In January. ( 252 ) with the '^ Ovis Poll'' (Ovis Argali of the Busedans).'^ The weather was now intensely cold ; one of our party got his fingers frost-bitten from the cold contact of his rifle^ and when I stopped for a few seconds on the top of a ridge to get a view of the country, and to record the reading of my aneroid, my hands and feet became entirely numbed. From Turgat Bela (at an elevation of 11,030 feet above the sea), we rode to the Chadyr Kul Lake, and back to camp the same evening (about 32 miles). Starting early in the morning with the thermometer several degrees below zero, we rode 18 miles to the Pass up a gentle ascent through the broad and open valley, until within a mile of the crest, where the slope though still very easy, is somewhat steeper, there being a rise of about 400 feet in the last mile. On the left of our road was a rang^ of lofty, bold, precipitous peaks, running while near the pass from north-east to south-west, but subsequently in a more westerly direction. The height of these peaks varied from 13,000 to 16,000 feet. On our right were low undulat- ing hills extending away eastward as far as we could see. On reaching the pass (12,760 feet) we did not immed^tely see the lake, but had to advance for about three miles in a northerly direction, when we came suddenly into full view of the whole lake and the range of mountains beyond, a magnificent panorama. There are two nearly parallel ranges of mountains, the Turgat (sometimes called Koktaw — in Russian maps '' Kfishghar Daban **) on which we stood, and the T&shrob&t to the north, both portions of the Thien Sh&n range, which westward, like the K&r&korum eastwards, seems to lose its identity and merges into several comparatively unimportant chains of which it is imposssble to say which is the main one. The Chadyr Kul lies between these two ridges, and, as far as one can learn from Russian sources, there is no drainage out of it, but several small streams run into it. Their maps include the lake within their boundary, which they place on the crest of the southern or Turgat range, the peaks and passes of which are of about the same average height as of the northern range. The K&shgharees (in Kdshghar) claim the lake, and maintam that the T^hrob&t range forms the true boundaiy, but their officials on the spot appeared to take a different view, and maintained that the lake was the boundary. The Ak-sai River, which rises a few miles east of the lake and between the Tdshrob&t and Kok-tan ranges, flows into East Turkestan, while the Arpa, which flows from a corresponding position near the west end, finds its way into the Syr Darya. This would indicate the lake itself as a good natural boundaiy, although it must be remembered that the Ak-sai plains to the east, the head waters of ^ the Ak-sai River, which afterwards becomes tl^e Kokshd, are undoubtedly occupied by Kirghiz subject to Russia. The lake is about fifteen hundred feet below the pass, which would give the former an elevation of 11,300 feet, a result agreeing very nearly with that arrived at by the Russians. From the undidating nature of the low hills to the east of the pass, it was impossible to judge of the direction of the range. Of course from a single view of the lake and the mountains beyond it, it was impossible to form any accurate idea as to their size, but according to the Russian maps the lake is of oblong shape, about 14 miles in length, and 5 or 6 in breadth at its widest part ; its greatest length being from west by south to east by north. From where we stood about three miles north of the pass, the east extremity of the lake bore a little to west of north, while the T£shrob&t Pass as pointed out by our guides lay about 17® further to the west. The lake was covered with ice, and the sleet which lay on the surface made it difficult to distinguish the edge of the lake from the nearly level plain by which it is surrounded, and which was covered with a white saline efflorescence. A single horseman near the edge was the only living object visible, a curious contrast to the other side of the pass, where within a few miles of the crest, we had seen a herd of several hundred Cossack ponies grazing at the foot of the pre- cipitous hills before alluded to. * These extensive grassy slopes, somewhat resembling the English downs, are a very carious feature of the conntxy, and not only attract the Kirghiz as grazing grounds for their cattle, but are equally sought after by the large herds of Gtdjar, in one of which Dr. Stoliczka counted no less than eighty-five. ^^?*^-' ( 253 ) The caravan road which we had followed from Kashghar lay across the plain in front of OB. Beyond it is the Tdskrobi^t Pass about the same height as the Tmrgat, but somewhat more difficult. A traveller who had crossed it in March told me that the road was then very bad^ and difficult for equestrians^ but I think his account must be somewhat exaggerated^ as the camel caravans from Alm&ti traverse it without much difficulty^ and the Russians do not write of it as a difficult pass. Between the N&ryn Fort and K&shghar, a distance of 180 miles^ there are only these two passes — both about 13^000 feet in height. There is a third pass^ the Ak Cheta^ between the At-bdshi River and the Ndryn Port on the Ndryn River, but this is, I believe, sometimes avoided by following the Niryn to its junction with the At-b^hi, and then proceed- ing up the latter river to Tishrobdt.. When we visited tbe country early in January there was no snow on the ground, but we were singularly fortunate, for a traveller two months later in the year complained of a good deal of snow, while Baron Osten Sacken wrote on a former occasion that his party suffered much from cold and snow in July. A shorter and more direct road between N&ryn and Kfishghar is that over the Ak Cheta, the Bogushta, and Terekty Passes, stated by Captain Reinthal to be not more than lS4i miles in length, or eight days' journey. The passes, though all about the same height, ue.^ between 12,000 and 13,000 feet, are more difficult than on the ordinary caravan road vid T^hrobat and Tmrgat Bela. The Bogashta Pass is sometimes closed in winter. It is covered on the Kashghar side by the Terekty Fort. We never bad an opportunity of visiting this fort, which lies, as far as I could make out, nearly due east of Ch^kmak and due north of K^hghar, and although we must have passed within a few miles of it during a subsequient trip in the Artysh districts, my guides studiously avoided pointing it out, and actually, on one occasion even denied its existence. The distance between Fort N&ryn and Vemoe (Almati), a military district centre, with large garrison and supplies, is 180 miles by the shortest road, which goes over three passes, all between 12,000 and 13,000 feet in height. I had hoped that we should have been able to return to Kashghar, over the undulating plateau to the east of the Turgat Pass, and by the Terekty Fort, but we had now to retrace our steps to Kashghar by the road we had come. A notice of the return journey is therefore unnecessary. Whilst our party under Colonel Gordon was visiting the Chakmdk Forts, another member of the Embassy, Captain Biddulph, paid a visit to Maralbaahi on the direct road to Aksu. A description of his journey will be found elsewhere. During my absence Kishen Sing Pundit, was despatched in company with Sirdar Tara Sing (Treasurer to the Mission), on a visit to Khanarik and Kizil-boia, large villages lying to the south-east of K&shghar. The Pundit carried on a traverse survey wherever he went, which has thrown some light on the intricate maze of rivers and canals which irrigate the villages that are thickly scattered over the whole of the ground visited by him. My second excursion was to the north-east of Kfishghar. The Amir having granted per- mission for a visit to the Artysh districts, I was enabled to accompany Sir Douglas Forsyth and party during their stay there, and on their return to Kdshghar, I made a rapid journey in company with the late Dr. Stoliczka towards Ush Turfan. Unfortunately on this trip, after leaving the head-quarters party the weather was much against us. Bitter cold was accompanied by snow and clouds, which combined to conceal the rocks and hills from both Dr. Stoliczka and myself, still, as the ground traversed is, as far as I am aware, entirely new to geographical science, a short account ought not to be UDinteresting. We left Tangi-hiss&r (K&shgar) on the 14th February for Bu Miriam Kh&n&, a village about 1 1 miles north-east of the old city of K&hghar. The first three miles of one road lay across a cultivated and well irrigated plain, and brought us to the banks of the Kizil or K&shghar Biver, at a place where it was easily f ordable ; after another four miles we reached the large village of Aw&t, near which large quantities of salt are collected and taken to the Kdshghar market. Four miles of level plain brought us to Bu Miriam, where we learned that our baggage animals had, by mistake, taken the road to Ostyn (Upper) Artysh, and that we had no chance of seeing them that day. We accordingly pushed on to Altyn (Lower) Artysh, where we found com- fortable quarters and a good dinner^ provided by our host, the Halam of the district. Both a36 ( 254. ) were welcome, as our own things did not come in till next morning, much to my special annoyance, as the chronometers had all run down in the night, a §preat misfortune, as I had been very anxious to determine a good travelling rate for them, and with that end in view, had taken very careful time observations before departure from K&shghar. About a mile from Bu Miriam, we crossed the small river coming from Ostyn Artysh, the upper part of whose course I have traced in an earUer portion of ti^is narrative. It (or rather what small portion remains after irrigating the large and fertile village of Beshkerim, which we passed on our left) falls into the Kashgh&r river near Khush Toghrdk, about 25 miles to the east of where we crossed the stream. Five miles further on the road traverses the same low range of hills which, south of Ostyn Artysh, is pierced by the Artysh stream. This ridge, composed of clay and shales, is several hundred feet in height at Oslyn Artysh, but gradually gets lower and lower as it runs eastward, until it dwindles into nothing, and gets lost in the level plain a very short distance to the east of where we now crossed it ; a few miles further on, after crossing a small stream supplied from springs on the west, we reached the village of Altyn Artysh, a march of 22 miles. This village partakes of much the same character as Ostyn Artysh, and, indeed, nearly all the villages I have seen in East Turkestan, consisting of a number of s^mall hamlets, scattered about the plain, at intervals from each other varying from a quarter of a mile to a mile. Each hamlet consists of a number of scattered farm-houses, each farm having its separate irrigation canal, its trees, its fields, and out-houses, and forming the residence of a family containing generally from four to a do^sen souls. In a central position is the bazar, with long rows of stalls on both sides of the road, somewhat resembling that of an Indian village, but absolutely untenanted except on the weekly market day. In its neighbourhood the Hakim, who generally owns a somewhat better house than his neighbours, administers justice. Sepoys, if the village be important enough to contain any, are generally (quartered near the residence of the Hakim* The valley in which the two Artyshes i^re situated runs f ron^ west to ei^t, and is through-? out about eight miles in breadth ; bounded on the south by the low ridge of hills before mentioned which comes to an end south-east of I^ower Artysh, it is confined on the north by another and somewhat higher range, which extends eastwards from Tesh^k Tash on the Chakmdk road, to nearly opposite the termination of the southern range, when bending towards the north-east it runs away towards Kalti AiMk, another laige group of villages about 22 miles east by north of Altyn Artysh. The valley opens, where loosened from its bounds on the south, into the large desert plain which forms part of the one vast plateau of Eastern Turkestan. The one difficulty, in all this country, is want of water, and one cannot help admiring the ingenuity with which the inhabit0,nts have made the best use of the scanty supply of this precious fluid. Where there is a sufficiency the country is one close net-work of irriga-> tion channels, and in the spring, in these places, one unbroken mass of tress and verdure testifies to the excellence of the system. In the Artysh valley there is water \xi moderation, wd, as far as I could learn, nearly every drop, in the spring and summer, is used in irrigation. In the winter, one sometimes comes across tracts of marshy land, but these are generally caused either by springs which rise in the neighbourhood, or by leakage from canals in autumn, at which time the water is no longer required for irrigation, and the saline nature of the soil causes breaks down and consequent leakage, which it is not considered worth while to repair until the followiug spring. In Altyn Artysh, I was informed thi^t there were in all about 3,000 hpuses forming the following hamlets ; — 1, Meshak ; 2, Sborphi ; 8, Takyun ; 4, Jjangar ; 5, Kichingijs ; 6, Mai or T&ter j 7, Kijja; 8, Bay&m£t; and 9, Eukila. It is more thickly inhabited than other parts of the surrounding country, as it forms the seat of the District (iovemment (which includes under it ELalti Ail&k and other villages). It is well watered, but the population being large, it barely produces grain sufficient for its own consumption. This deficiency is, however, made up from the neighbouring village of Kalti Ail&, where there is plenty of good rich soil, and a smaller proportionate population, due to an occasional want of water the supply of which is often insufficient to irrigate the whole of the lands. The headman of Kalti Ailik bitterly complained to nie, that where there was p]ienty of water good land ^i^ deficient, ( 255 ) and where little water was met ■ it was often the reverse. This village contains about 1^000 houses^ divided into the following petty districts : — Eurgh&n (the chief centre)^ Golok^ Khush Toghiik, Kuyok, and Jainak. There are two streams which enter the Artysh valley^ the Toyanda before described^ and the Bogoz River; a branch of the former irrigates the villages of Beshkerim and Ba Miriam^ where the greater part of the water is absorbed ; a small remnant however flows eastward^ and in favorable seasons finds its way to Khush Toghr^, a southern hamlet of Kalti AHik, where it mingles with the canals from the Kashgh&r Kiver^ employed to irrigate that village. The north branch of the Toyanda Biver is probably almost all expended in irrigating the fields of Upper Artysh^ but it is possible that a small quantity may find its way down to Lower Artysh^ or at all events may help to form the supply for certain springs which issue from the ground west of that village. The main water-supply^ however, for the latter village is derived from the Bogoz Biver, which rises in the Chakmdk range of hUls, about 30 miles to the north, but derives a large portion of its water from hot springs a few miles north of the village. On the 17th of February we started for Tangit&r, making a march of about 20 miles in a northerly direction. Following the banks of the Biver Bogoz, a narrow but somewhat rapid stream, easily fordable, we reached after three miles the range of hills forming the north boundary of the valley. Here on a small isolated mound stand the ruins of an old Chinese fort; a mile beyond this the stream divides, the left (west) branch is the main one and comes from the snows ; the temperature of its water was 42^, while that of the right hand one coming from the warm springs before mentioned was 57^. Our road followed the east branch ; a path along the other goes to Chung Terek in the Toyanda valley, distant about 82 miles. Coptinuing our road along a ravine passing through the range of hills (which here have a breadth of about three miles from north to south), we at last emerge on to another extensive plain extending like that of Artysh from west to east, and about six miles in breadth from north to south. On the west it was bounded by the hills above Chung Terek, and extended along eastward, as far as one could see, for several miles, merging into the open plain, where the ridge to the south comes to an end. On our right, near where we entered the valley, is the village of Argu, said to contain 800 houses, but from its appearance I should not have judged it to hold half that number. Its water-supply is derived partly from springs, partly by irrigation from the Bogoz Biver* The road crosses in a north-west direction over a perfectly bare, stony plain, which continues away on the left as &r as the eye can reach ; one or two houses only near the bank of the river break the monotony and barrenness of the land- scape, neither grass nor wood being elsewhere visible. - After six miles we enter a gap through which the Bogoz Biver issues from another range of hills, also running from west to east. Here is another Chinese Kar^wul^ in good preservation. The road papses to the north along the Bogoz valley through the hills for about nine miles, to Tangit&r, 5,800 feet above sea leveL The vaUey was in places of considerable width, and contained much wood and grass, as a natural consequence of which numerous Kirghiz encampments were scattered over it, We passed successively those of Bu^bi, Bul&k, Kuktam, and Jsd Ergiz. On our right were some very precipitous hiUs, forming the ends of spurs rimning generally from west-north-west to east, south-east. Our camp at Tangitdr, after a march of ^0 miles, was at the entranpe of a defile, where two small fortifications are perched up on rocks commanding the south entrance. If larger, they might possiblv be of considerable i^se for purposes of defence, but ^s they cannot hold a garrison of more than 20 men, they could only be useful in keeping in check badly armed Kii^hiz or bands of robbers. They are built on the limestone formation which here com- mences, the hills through which we had hitherto been marching havi4g been composed of clay and gravel. The situation of such forts, both here and in other parts of the country, are, I think, con-f vincing proofs of the fact that the Chinese in their dealings with the Kirghiz and other robber tribes, nearly always acted on the defensive, and did not attempt to hold the hilly tracts, or claim sovereignty over them. They apparently used to content themselves with posting strong * Karawid is a Torki word Bignifyin^ "oT^tpost," ( 256 ) guards on their jErontier inside the lines of hills, which they appear generally to have given over entirely to the wandering tribes. The same facts apply to the hills on the west of the great Turkestan plain, where the line of fortified posts along their base was considered the boundary. This forms a striking contrast to the policy of the present Ruler, who keeps all these tribes in subjection, has disarmed them, and has replaced the former anarchy by peace and quiet. On the 19th February we continued our way up the stream, here called Tangitir,* through a very narrow defile somewhat difiScultto traverse on account of its being filled with ice. After marching a mile or so along this due north, the valley opens, and through a stony ravine on the right comes the main stream from the north-east, while opposite to it, on the left, is an open ravine along which a road is said to go to the Terekty Fort, which / believe lay about 10 nules off in a north-west direction. Our own road continued due north for a while, when it edged round to the east over a spur, on rounding which we discovered that we were on the borders of another large open valley, the third we had entered since leaving Kfishghar. The view from this spur was very fine ; in front of us lay a vast open valley bounded on the north by the snow covered Chakm&k range of hills, which, visible about 40 miles off on our left, above the forts of the same name ran in a bold irregular outline from west-south-west to east-north-east, the crest of the range passing about 16 miles to our north, and running away eastward as far as we could see, apparently getting lower and lower as it did so. The broad grass covered valley before us was about 6,000 feet above the sea, and ran parallel to the crest of the hills. Along the middle of it is a low broken ridge running in the same direction dividing the valley into two parts* Small, bare, bold isolated hills also dotted the plain, which was nearly level, draining slightly towards the south. We halted, after a short march of only 10 miles, at Tughamati, a camping ground situated in the plain, along which we continued the following day in a direction east by north for about 15 miles to another Kirghiz camping ground, called B&sh Sog6n (head of the Sogon). The road was so level that it was almost impossible to say where we crossed the water-shed which divides the Bogoz basin from that of the Sogon River. The latter has, at this time of the year, its chief source in springs near our camp, but as well as the Bogoz, it must in the hot season get a good supply of water from the snowy rauge to the north. From a high hill to the south of our camp, I obtained a fine view of the low ranges to the south, but to the north I could not see over the snowy range. The general run of the hills to the south, was from west by south to east by noith. It was formed by a succession of nearly parallel ridges starting abruptly from the plain in front, and dying out gfradually as they approached the east. A few miles north-west of B&sh Sog6n, is a largish village called Ark^la, near which large numbers of ponies, sheep, and cattle were grazing. We also saw signs of cultivation, which is occasionally carried out in years when there is sufficient water-supply from the melting snow. Throughout the plain there is a good deal of grass and low jungle, and near the camp I saw some small deer (kik), whilst others of the party had good sport in hawking partridges and hares. The nights we spent on this plain were very cold ; at Tughamati the thermometer outside the akoee fell 20^ below zero and stood at 1 6^ below zero when I rose in the morning. This great cold was, I think, in great measure attributable to the presence of saline matter in the soil, for our elevation was not much over 1,200 feet above that of Eishghar, where the corresponding minimum was very much higher. The drainage of the east portion of this large valley runs into the Sogdn River, but the supply of water from the hills is apparently very small, owing I presume to the very moderate snow fall. The river, after it emerges into the plains north of Kalti Ailak, wastes away and leaks through crevices in the stony ground, and the Hakim of the latter place assured me that wells had been sunk, but had proved to be of no use, so that the whole of the water from the Sog6n runs to waste, if at least we except the small quantity used by the Kirghiz higher up. This diminution in the size of rivers as they descend, is one of the chief characteristics of the country, and occurs in all minor streams that have come under my notice. Of course much of this is due to irrigation, which necessarily carries off large quantities of water, but the stony soil has also much to answer for ; on the other hand the frequent appearance of large springs, giving * Tangier signifies ** narrow defile." ( 267 ) considerable supplies of water^ and often issuing from the open plains at long distances from the mountains^ may account in great measure^ if not fully^ for the water thus lost in its early infancy. On the 20th^ our march lay in a south-east direction^ following the circuitous course of the Sog6n through some low hills^ for about 16 miles^ to Ayok Sog6n (foot of the Sog6n)j a Ki^hiz encampment situate at the east of another small plain^ covered with grass and jungle and the abode of numerous Kirghiz. This camp is near the direct road from Edshghar to t^h Turf&n, and it was here arranged that Dr. Stoliczka and myself should leave the main party, and push on in the direction of TTsh Turfan j as far as the limited time and commissariat at our disposal would permit. It was stipulated however that we were not to go beyond the limits of the Artysh district The marches from Kishghar to tTsh are as follows : — l^&flhgar Allyn ArlyBh KaltiAilak EyrBtikk JaiTdpa UiBolak ligarek Akchi Eujok Tokai Sa&Bai Ear&wol Ush Turfan Total Miles. . 22 . 22 . 33 . 20 . 27 • 17 19 Cross the Bebwii Pass between Tigarek and Akchi. . 22 . 22 Boad from Safr Bai to Bedul Pass across the head of . 22 the Kami Biver to the Zanku Pass, and thence by . 16 Karfikol to IssighkoL . 242 From Jai Tupa to T7sh there is said to be an alternative road — Jai Tdpa. Pichan. Piklik, over Pass to Gulj&r B&shi. EILshghar Tokai. Xotan Serik. tJshTdi&n This road is somewhat loneer than the other, and strikes the Kokshid Biyer a few mUes east of Akchi. Leaving Ayok Sog6n after an early breakfast on the 21st, we passed for a mile over the plain in a south-ea^t direction, and struck the main road ; then, turning east went up a ravine, through some hills across a low pass (5,670 feet), and fotmd ourselves on the western edge of another of thede large characteristic level plains, 16 miles across from north to south, where we entered it, and extending away eastward further than we could see; It was bounded on the north by our old acquaintance, the Chakm&k range, and is probably a continuation of the Tughamati valley, which apparently narrowed considerably to the east of our camp at Biah Sog6n. The miun range was here following a more northerly direction than when we had last seen it, but the peaks were involved in snow and clouds, from which they never emerged during the whole of our trip. On the north, at a distance of about 16 miles, was the Kirghiz village of Karglul, the only habitation visible. Shortly after entering the phdn we passed though what proved to be the commencement of a very large forest, composed almost exclusively of poplar trees (toghrak), and a small shrub called " balghun.'^ The poplars were stunted in growth, and although evi- dently in a natural state, they bore the appearance of having been pollarded. As timber I should not think the wood would.be of much value, but it would furnish K^ishghar with a plentiful supply of firewood, when the more convenient stocks in its neighbourhood have been exhausted. Passing along in a north-east direction, a low range of hills at a distance of about three miles bounded the plain on the south. At about 12 miles from our last camp, still traversing forest, we passed on our left the camping ground of Kyr Bulak — ^inhabited in the summer by Kirghiz, but now untenanted — onwards we pushed our way over a most monotonous flat, and through the bare bleak stems of trees, until after six miles, we came to a slightly rising ground a37 ( 268 ) called Dung Jigda £uldi* where a little water was oozing from the groand indicating a spring which^ with the presence of a '^ jigda *' or wild olive tree^ gave the place its name. On over the plain^ which in summer would have been pretty enough, but now was dried up and desolate. The forest ceased within about two miles of our camp at Jai Tupa, which was marked hy a dump of trees standing conspicuously on an eminence above the plain. We reached it about dusk, after a march of fully 32 miles, through a venr heavy sandy road which so delayed the mules canying our baggage, that they did not amve till eight o'clock the next morning, having stopped over night, exhausted in the jungle, about five miles short of our camp. Fortunately, we f oimd an old Kirghiz Musjid, in which we went dinnerless to bed, protected, however, from the wind, and from the snow which fell during the night. The officials at the head-quarters' camp had assured us that we should find ^rghiz and supplies at this plaoe^ but there were neither one nor the other, and the Diwan Begi,t who accompanied us, spent his whole night (after his day's ride) in going over to the village of Earghil beforementioned, and hunting up Kirghiz, with whom he returned about daybreak, bringing supplies for man and beast, both of whom had fasted for at least 24 hours. It snowed all tibe morning, but about noon we pushed on about five miles in a north-east direction to a Kirghiz camp called Jigda, where we obtained further supplies. Snow and clouds prevented our seeing any of the hills around. The forest recommenced about half way between Jai Tupa and Jigda. The following day (2Srd) we pushed on for 22 miles to Ui BuUk, having obtained from the Kirghiz two or three camel loads of grain and other supplies for our future consumption, as we were told we should not come across any more habitations. Just before starting we felt a slight shock of an earthquake, the only one I have noticed during our stay in Turkestan. Our general direction was now north-east. About two inches of snow lay on the ground, and more was constantly falling. After five miles, we saw a low ridge on our right, running parallel to the road, at a distance of about six miles. At its base in what was apparently the lowest part of the valley, was a strip of forest, a portion of the laxge one that extends right away to beyond Kyr BuMk, a distance of at least 82 miles. Almough long, this forest is comparatively narrow, varying, as far as I could judge, from half mile to two or three miles in breadth. The southerly ridge beforementioned is said to extend easterly to KiQpin (about 15 tash)t a village between 0sh Turfim and Marilbibhi, and to be about five tash from the latter place. At Kilpin, like other ranges that I have traced, it gets lost in the level plain. Our road now lay through low jungle (balgun) with little or no grass, and at about 12 miles from camp^ we reached the limit of the plain and ascended a low spur running irom the main range ; gpround bare and stony. Following this spur in a north-«ast direction we crossed into an open ravine, about half a mile broad. Ascending it for a short distance we arrived at our camp, near which there was a good deal of gprass and plenty of fire-wood. Thermometer at night down to zero. The next day was fortunately very fine, for we had a hard though interesting journey before us. Leaving our servants and baggage ponies behind at Ui Bul&k, Dr. Stoliczka and myself continued our journey in a north-east direction, ascending the ravine, for about eight miles the road way very stony, and some inches deep in snow. Near the head of the ravine we crossed a low pass on a spur from the main range. Descending on the other side we crossed the lower slopes of the main range, passing along which for two or three miles, we came upon another large plain about six miles broad lying between two long spurs. On the further side of this plain, at Tig^ek, we had the good luck to come unexpectedly across a Kirghiz encampment, belonging to 0sh Turfdn. Leaving the " Dah-b&hi/'§ who accompanied us as escort, to make preparations for our dinner, we procured a Kirghiz gmde and started to try and reach before dark the Belowti Pass, wUch is on the main range that separates the drainage of the ground we had been traversing from that of the Aksai or Koksh^l nver, which^ rising east of Chadyr-kul, flows nearly due east to TTsh Turf&n and Aksii. A march of nine * In Turki Buldk is the eoaiyalent for spring. t The designation of the official who was dej^uted to make arrangements for our party. X A tash here is taken at five miles, but m many parts it scarcely exceeds four miles. See note to Bonte XII of Section G. of Geographical Appendix.— T. V. F. § Or *' Commander of ten (soldiers)." ( 259 ) miles^ i.e.y three miles in a north-east direction across several low projections of a spur running souths then four miles of steady ascent up a ravine to the north, followed by a sharp pull of two miles in a direction 85^ east of north, brought us to the Belowti Pdss, the goal for which we had been striving. From the pass itself, which is about 11,600 feet above the sea, no view was to be had, but by ascending a hill to the west, some 300 feet above it, I got a very fine view of a portion of the snowy range on the opposite side of the Eokshdl river ; one peak, nearly due north, stood out conspicuously, of no very gpreat height however, its elevation being only 2i^ from where I stood. The range appeared to run nearly due east. Parallel to it at its base lay the deep valley of the Kokshiil, apparently about eight miles to the north of where I stood. The road from the pass leads down a steep ravine, at first nearly north-east, and then with a north-westerly course to the river. The position of the next camp, Ak-chai, on the big river, was pointed out to me, bearing 10^ east of north, but the man who was with me could not give me a good idea of the direction of T^sh Turf4n or Aksu. Ak-chi, tbe first halting-place to the north of the pass, is a Kirghiz camp close to the point where the road from the pass strikes the river. About five miles below it is Kokshil, a large Kirghiz village, between which and tJsh Turf&n, a distance of about 90 miles as far as I could learn, are numerous Kirghiz encampments, all under the orders of the Hakim of tJsh Tiirfdn. It was a party of these Kirghiz whom we had had the good fortune to encounter on the south of the Belowti Pass.* Near Kokshil, the alternative road from Jai Tupa, before alluded to, joins the river which takes its name from the village. The road is said to be shorter and easier than the one we had followed, but for two days there is no fire-wood. One march above Kokshdl (or three marches according to another accoimt) is the fort of Kdrd Buldk, above which the Kirghiz subjects of the Amir are not pUowed to pass, the ground above being held by the Russian Kirghiz, who in their turn are not allowed to cross the frontier eastward. All these Kirghiz are, I believe, of the same tribe, but being under different rulers are to a certain extent hostile; at all events they are not allowed to communicate with each other. From Safr Bai, about 38 miles to the west of T3'sh, is a road leading to Issigh-kul, by the Bedal and Zaiki Passes. The former of these is on the boundary between Russia and K^shgharia. There are said to be about 500 Kirghiz families in the Koksh&l valley, and about 350 in the valleys north and north-east of Artysh. The Koksh&l valley is exceedingly rich in pasture. Its upper waters (the Aksai) were first occupied by the Russians about 10 years ago. On the range on which I stood there were no high peaks visible, probably none more than 1,000 feet above the pass; the ground on both sides was undulating and grassy, very much resembling that to the east of the Turgat Bela Pass in the same range. It was evident that this range had, as it advanced eastward, become considerably lower, both with regard to its peaks and its water-shed. Like the smaller ranges at its base and parallel to it, I believe it to get lower still, as it goes further east, and at last to be lost in the plains near Aksu. The sun set while I was at the top of the pass ; the thermometer stood at 5^ F. with a cold wind blowing, so I was glad to go back to the Kirghiz camp at Tigarek, which we reached at 9 p.m., having made good use of the only fine day we had during our trip. As it was, snow began to faU immediately after we reached the camp. The next day we returned to our stan£ng camp at Ui Bul&k ; the road was three inches deep in snow, and more falling, accompanied by a bitterly cold wind ; next day back to Jigda, iZ miles ; weather much the same ; next day 25 miles to Kyr Bul&k, to which place akoees and supplies bad been brought for us from the village of Karghil, 15 miles off. The following day we marched 29 miles to the village of Kalti Ail&k. The ground we had been traversing is marked on our maps " the Syrt,'' and is represented as a high table-land. I took some pains to ascertain the limits of the district bearing this name, but could not arrive at very satisfactoiy conclusions. "SjTf in Turki means 'Hhe back,'' and is therefore necessarily applied to somewhat elevated lands. The Hakim (Gt>vemor) of Artysh included under this designation the whole of the highland districts about Sonkul and • From them we obtained both food and shelter. ( 260 ) ' Chadyrkul ; another anthoritf referred the name more particularly to the plains at the head of the Aksai River. The Kirghiz living in the districts we haa passed through seemed to be entirely ignorant of the name, and did not recognize it ; but after my return, on asking the H&kim of Kalti Ail&k the whereabouts of the S^, he immediately replied that I had just come from it, and that the name was applicable to the whole district between Artysh and Ush Turf&n ; on his evidence I think the name may remain on our maps where it is. The countiy can, however, by no means be considered as a high table-land rising immediately above the plains of Turkestan ; it should rather be represented as a series of parallel mountain ranges, running, as a rule, from west to east, each one decreasing gradually in height, from the main ridge on the north to the lowest on the south; each subsidiary range also decreasing in height as it goes eastward. Between these ranges and running parallel to them, are extensive level plains, very little higher than the plateau of Eastern Turkestan, but gradually rising towards the norUi and sloping down towards the east. Thus the Tughamati Pliun, about 45 xmles north of Eaabghir, is about 2,000 feet higher; while the Jai Tupa plain, the same distance east of Tughamati, is only 1,000 feet higher than K^hghar. The combined effect is to give a general slope to the south-east. These large plains have in most cases much grass and fuel, though but little water. From the Sog6n eastward we came across no flowing stream. What water is derived from the very moderate annual snowfall seems to percolate into the earth, moistening it generally, and issuing in various places in the form of springs, near which are usually to be found Kirghiz encampments. In the Tigarek plain, at the foot of the Belowti Pass, there are, I believe, no springd ; and although there is good grass, the only time of the year in which the plain can be tenanted by the Earghiz, is that at which we happened to visit it, the sole substitute for water for them- selves and flocks being the acbual snow, which was then lying on the gpround. In the Jai Tiipa valley there are water-courses running from north and east, but the supply of water is so precarious that the Kirghiz told me that it was only after years in which there was a more than average snowfall, that they attempted any cultivation at all, and under the most &vor- able circumstances the extent is extremely limited. There appeared to be no outlet through the hills surrounding this valley, in the lower portion of which lies the forest before alluded to. The moisture in the soil would seem to be sufficient to nourish these stunted trees. Much of the ground in the plain is covered with saline efflorescence, and from near Jai Tupa itself la^e quantities of crystallized salt are collected and despatched to K&shghar. The Kirghiz who inhabited the country in the time of the Chinese appear to have led a more jovial life than at present. Under no masterj they used regularly to levy black-mail from passing travellers and merchants at every camping ground; and as prompt payment always ensured a safe passage, there was seldom much difficulty in collecting their dues. Under the strict rule of the Amir they are now disarmed, and are comparatively poor, as they dare not venture on any of their old tricks. A single sepoy of the King's, selected from among themselves, is stationed in each encampment, and is responsible for the good conduct of its members ; an annual present of a choga, a certain amount of grain, and remission of taxes is the remuneration he receives from ^e State. The Kirghiz pay as taxes annually one sheep in 40, one sheep for every two camels, and one-tenth of the agricultural produce (when there is any). In these parts horses or ponies are scarce. Nature aids the inhabitants in their poverty by a plentlEul supply of a plant called locally iurui or teriCf a kind of millet which grows wild and from which they make a preparation called '' taltan'^ corresponding to the Lad&khi suttoo, which they eat uncooked moistened with a little water. I tried some, and found it to be not unlike Scotch oatmeal, and, as it may be had for the picking it may be looked upon as a bountiful gift of Providence to these otherwise poverty stricken people. Our march from Kyr Bul&k to Kalti Ailfik was for a great part of the way down the Sogon Biver. A k&rawul, garrisoned by a few sepoys is situated where the river enters the hills south of the Ayok Sog6n plain. The valley occasionally widens out into small grassy flats. After a time, the river is left (it goes off in a south-east direction and is, as before explained, soon swallowed up by the thirsty gravelly soil) and the road traverses some very bleak and desolate broken ground without a scrap of vegetation or sign of life. After passing through these hills and then over a few miles of flat stony desert we reached Kalti AiUk. ■■^'Aii^S-' St.:>^ ft .'^ '-J- : ^ 45.'--Mooea Khwoja. Son of the Hakim of Artush, with hawks. ( 261 ) We spent a night there in the residence of the Hdkim and went the following day to Khush Togr^^ its southern township^ about eight miles to the south-east. After arrival there we pushed on two or three miles to the Kishghar Biver^ which we tried to cross in order to shoot in some jungle at the other side ; but the ice was now breaking up and was so dangerous that our conductors would not venture to take us over^ although the head-quarters party had crossed over a few days before on the ice without the slightest difficulty. Next day we continued our return journey^ and forded the river several miles higher than where we haid attempted its pas- sage the day before. It took us nearly an hour to cross the river, the combined water^ ice^ and mud making the passage so difficult that our Turkestani attendants had to strip ofE their four or five superfluous suite of clothing and go to the assistance of our baggage animals^ who^ after a good deal of plunging and floundering, at last got across without accident. Between Khush Togr&k and the river there are, at this time of the year, extensive swamps, caused in the manner I have before described. Near this place the waters of the Artysh and Kishghar River mingle together; but in the hot and irrigating season the whole of the water from the Artysh Biver is said to be expended before reaching the junction, and the Khush Togr&k village is then exclusively watered from the K&hghar Biver. In the early winter when the ice first begins to form, it partially blocks up the streams and the mass of ice growing larger and larger, great frozen lakes are often formed where in summer there is merely a rapid stream of water. This makes it impossible in winter (the season of our travels) to form any accurate idea of the real size of the streams. After passing the river and crossing a few miles of salt waste we came to Faizabad, a large village on the road between Marfilbdshi and Aksu. On this march I saw, for the first and only time in Turkestan^ large numbers of geese and duck, all flying eastward. It was market day in Faizabad, and the crowd attending the bazar was about as large and dense as that I had previously seen at Altyn Artysh, from which circumstance I should infer that the population of the surrounding district is about the same. On the following day (3rd of March) we returned to K&hghar, a march of 37 miles over a perfectly flat country, the road winding almost the whole way through a populous and well cultivated district. We passed successively the scattered villages of Sheaptal, Sang, and Yanduma, every village as usual composed of several hamlets, each with its separate name. At Sheaptal it was market day, but it was too early in the day to be able to form any estimate of the population attending, though on the march we met crowds of people thronging to it. The road crosses several large canals which leave the southern branch of the Kds^har Biver several miles above Kfishghar and irrigate the whole of the ground south, south-east^ and east of the city. One of them bears the name of Yamunyar, and possibly a portion of its waters comes from the river of the same name, which, rising in the Little Karakul Lake flows past Opal and Tashbalig, where it divides into numerous branches and canals, some of which probably intermingle their waters with canals from the Kdshghar river. The two together form a net- work of rivers and canals which it is nearly impossible to unravel, and which is moreover constantly changing almost from day to day. From the time of leaving the head-quarters camp at Bash Sogon, the weather was most unfavourable : snow and clouds prevented my seeing the hill tops by day or the stars by night. This lasted until our return to Ui BuMk, 26 miles west of the Belowti Pass. At Ui BuliLk, Faizabad and intermediate stations I was more fortunate and was able to secure good star observations, both for latitude and time. These, combined with a rough compass survey which I made of the whole road, have enabled me to map it with a fair amount of accuracy, sdthough the distance traversed during our absence from K^shghar, viz., 340 miles, was accomplished in little more than a fortnight. Excursion to the Pdmir Steppes and Wakhdn. Shortly after our return to Kdshghar from the Artysh Districts a party, under the orders of Colonel Gordon, consisting of Captain Biddulph^ the late Dr. Stoliczka, and myself, was sent via Sarikol (Tdshkurgh&n) to Wakh&n, and I was instructed to take what advantage a38 ( 262 ) I could of such opportunities as might offer for the increase of onr geographical knowledge. The primary object with which the Mission was despatched necessiiated a very rapid out- ward march^ and the difficulty of arranging about supplies compelled our return witii nearly equal n^idity^ giving no time or opportunity for making detours or excursions off the road : with the exception of halts at Panjah in Wakhin^ the furthest point westward reached by the Mission, and at T^hkurgh^n, where we were compelled to halt for the purpose of restang^ our cattle, and one day at Ak-t&sh for the same purpose^ our journey was merely a rapid conti- nuous march from beginning to end. I am induced to make these remarks at the outset, as I have seen paragraphs in the newspapers, and notably in the telegraphic reports of the London Times to the effect that " the P£mir has been completely surveyed,'' and other mmilar statements which are apt to mislead the public and induce them to expect a great deal more than has been, or could possibly have been, accomplished under the circumstances. What I have been able to perform in the way of actual survey chiefly consists of fairly complete sets of astronomical observations, which have enabled me to nx with considerable accuracy the positions of the more important places along our line of march. These places have all been connected by a route survey, executed as carefully as ciroumstaaces would permit. I also succeeded in getting good observations with boiling point thermometers and anteroids on all the passes and at all our camps, which, combined with ramultaneous baiometrio readings at Leh should furnish veiy trustworthy determinations of height. Observations for magnetic dip and declination were made at Sarikol, and for declination ents, the grassy valley affording an abundant pasturage to large herds of sheep and cattle, which remain in the valley in the cold weather, but are driven up to higher grazing grounds in the summer. Leaving the Charling stream at Khaizak, the road crosses two low spurs by the Kara Biwan and Kizil Diwan (on which there was no snow in April), and then descending to the bed of the Kizil stream^ passes over plain and through desert § to Yakirak Kurghan, from which place to Yarkand 23 i miles further on, is a rich, thickly populated, and fertile plain. The Charling and Tashkurgh^n Rivers unite at Khusherab, five or six miles below Khaizak ; the united stream then flows nearly due east, and is said to be met by a stiD larger river the Baskam (from the Karakorum Pass), at Kosherap, about 20 miles south-south-west of Yakirak. On the sixth day (26th), we made a short march of only eight miles to Pas Bob^t, crossing the Pas Bob^t or Torat (horse's sweat) Pass, which divides the drainage of the Charling River from that of the Tangit^r, which also flows into the Ydrkand river. The ascent was steep, and the descent still more so, the slope of the valley being 16^ for a distance of about two miles. The height of the pass is 13,130 feet, the rise from Chehil Gomb^ being about 3,000 feet, and the fall to Pas Rob£t about 4,000. While we were on the top the sky was cloudy and a fall of snow obscured the peaks to the north. On the return journey, however, I ascended a hill north of the pass and had a good though limited view in every direction. The ground rapidly rises towards the north and north-west^ peaks rising to a height of as much as 4,000 feet above the pass, i,e., to over 17,000 feet. The mountains eastward visibly decreased in height as they approached Ydrkand. On my 2nd visit the hills near the pass were covered with fresh, low, short, grass. About half way down to camp we came upon a number of willow trees (Turki, Suget), which continued in greater or less quantities down to the foot of the hill. In descending the stream we came upon some very thick river deposits having in places a thickness of 300 feet, and containing large boulders of syenite. The rock in situ was composed of the same materials, as that through which we had been passing for several days, viz : shales and slates. A stream coming from the north-west had a temperature of 42^, while the temperature of the air was only 24°. On the seventh day we continued our march up the Tangit£r (Pas Rob&t) River ; after five miles we passed on the left bank the Yimbuldk stream leading to the pass of the same name, 14 miles off, situate in a direction a little north of west. Our own path lay along the main * Torat or " horse's sweat." t This road was traversed by Eishen Sing Pandit from whom the information contained in this paragraph is derived. Nearly dry in winter, bat a large torrent when the snow is melting on the hills above. CaUed " Shaitan Kom " or " DeviFs sands." ( 267 ) . stream for about five miles more to T&ih&Bbi, passing through a narrow and dangerous defile. The road was execrable^ and we experienced great difficulty and delay in getting our baggage through. This defile would be quite impassable for field-guns^ and a few deter- mined men might in places defend it against an army. The road often runs along the bed of the stream^ which contains large boulders and deep holes of water. In the winter it is probably easier to traverse^ but at the time of our passage we had the double difficulties of ice and water to contend with. • As far as I could learn the river is never entirely frozen over^ on account of the numerous hot springs which issue from the limestone rocks forming its side walls. One of these had a temperature of 125^^ and the vegetation in its immediate neighbourhood was much in advance of that lower down the stream^ and showed signs of ap- proaching spring. In the summer this road is said to be rendered quite impassable by the floods from melting snow ; the alternative route lies up the Y&mbul&k River. On the eighth day our road lay alongside the Tangit&i; stream^ which^ from T^rbishi^ ascends a gentle slope^ bounded on both sides by undulating snow covered hills. The valley rises very gradually for about nine miles^ up to an almost imperceptible water-shed (14^480 feet high)^ by which we reached the Chichiklik plateau^ a broad elevated valley whose drainage passes souths through a somewhat narrow defile, to the T&Bhkurgh^n river. On the plateau close to the water-shed were two small frozen lakes. The summer road before alluded' to which goes up the Yambulak stream enters the Chichiklik plain by the Y&mbuUk Pass about four miles to the north of where we crossed the water-shed. On the opposite side of the valley^ which was between four and five miles wide^ in a south-west direction from where we entered it^ is the Pass of Kok Main^k^ on high spur running down from the Kizilart mountains. By this pass is the shortest road to T^hkurgh^^ but on our outward journey it was so deep in snow that we were obliged to take the alternative route down the Shindi valley. It is the Kok Main^k Pass that is called '' Chichiklik^' by the " Mirza,'' " Fyz Bxxx." and other travellers^ but the correct name as given by the Kirghiz who lived in the neighbourhood is^ I believe^ as I have given it. Our road lay down the stream. After the first two or three miles^ where the slope was very easy^ the valley narrowed^ and the road became exceedingly steep and difficulty passing for several miles through a succession of rocks and boulders At 10 miles below below the Idses we came to our camp at Balghun^ shortly before reaching which the valley had opened considerably although surrounded on both sides by lofty mountains. The following day (29th) ^ we descended four miles to the junction of the Shindi with the T&hkurgh^n (or Sarikol or Taghdumbash) Biver^^ just above the Sarikoli village of Shindig in- habited by Tajiks, and containing about 15 houses, situated in a small well cultivated valley, about two miles lopg by one broad. Our road now lay up the Sarikol river, but I descended it for about four miles to fix the direction in which it flowed away (south-east by east)t ; returning to the junction I crossed the main stream with some difficulty owing to the rapidity of the current, and continued along its right bank, where the road passes through a very wild defile of crystalline rocks, forming almost perpendicular banks about 2,000 feet in height, through which the river winds its way with a most tortuous course. At about 10 miles above the junction we emerged on the north-east comer of the T&shkurghan or Sarikol plain. The road by which we travelled is only open in winter, as in summer the large mass of water in the Sarikol River makes it impassable. The route by the Y&mbuUk and Kok Mainak Passes is then used. On entering the Sarikol valley we strike the junction of the Tagharma stream with the main river. The former comes from the plain of the same name on the north-west, and has been incorrectly described by a former traveller as the main source of the Sarikol River. When we saw it there was but little water coming down (temperature 38^, although in summer there is considerably more, but the small size of the water-course, and the evidence of * Sometimes also called Yarkand River. t From Shindi a path goes down the river, bat is only practicable during two or three months in winter, ( 268 ) the inhabitants of the district^ all tended to show that the river which flows down the Sarikol valley from the Kanj^d mountains^ and through the Taghdumbash Vimir, is undoubtedly the main stream. At the point I crossed^ just above the junction with the Tagharma stream^ it the river was 15 yards in widths with an average depth of li feet, and a velocity of four miles an hour. Two miles beyond in a southern durection brought us to the village of Chushminj leaving only five miles for our next day's march (the 10th from Yangi-Hissdr) into Tashkurghan, the chief town or rather village of the Sarikol valley. Between Chushm^n and Tashkurghan (both on the left bank of the Taghdumbash River) we passed the large village of Tizn^f. It is this village that has caused much confusion to geographers by giving its name to Hie river, which is frequently called the Tizn^f in its lower course^ and is often confounded with another river of the same name which rises on the north side of the Yangi-Diw^ Pass and flows past Karghdlik. On approaching Tfishkurgh^n (where we halted two days to rest our cattle)^ while passing up the valley I saw at its upper end some high peaks occasionally emerging from the clouds^ but before I could get to camp they had disappeared^ never to be seen again during our stay in the valley^ or on our return journey^ a great disappointment to me, as it is possible they were peaks in the Muz-tagh range, fixed by the Great Trigonometrical Survey. During our halt at Sarikol I took a set of magnetic as well as the usual astronomical observa- tions, and some careful azimuthal bearings with theodolite to a large mass of snowy peaks called Muz-tagh, situated to the north of Tdshkurghdn. These are identical with Hayward's Taghalma mountains, which are visible from Kashghar, the highest peak of which I determined by accordant trigonometrical measurements from K&shghar and Yapchan, to be 25,350 feet above the sea. The general outline of the Tashkurghan valley towards its head, was fixed by bearings taken from different points on a line across it. On the return journey I was able, by ascending the ridge that separates this plain from that of Tagharma on its north (and by making a detour through the latter on the way to our camp at the foot of the Kok Main^k Pass) to lay down the borders of the northern plain with considerable accuracy. Practically the two form one large plateau divided in the middle by a low range of hills through which flows the Tagharma River. The Tashkurghan plain extends southwards from the dividing ridge before mentioned, right up to the foot of the Kanjiid passes in the Mnz-tagh range, con- stituting''in its southern portion, the Taghdumbash Pdmir. The Sarikol valley may be said to have an average width of about four miles ; it is bounded on the east by the snowy range of Kand^r or Kandahar ;* on the south-west and south are the Taghdumbash mountains ; on the west the Shindi mountains ; north-west the Bir-d^sh, which also forms the western boundary of the Tagharma plain, to the east of which lie the Muz-tagh (or Tagharma) and the Chichiklik mountains. The Tagharma plain extends from the dividing ridge for about 12 miles in a north-north-west direction; it is only two miles in width immediately north of the ridge, but soon increases in an easterly direction to as much as 10 miles ; it then narrows, being nearly closed up by spurs running down from the Bir-d^h mountains on the west and the Muz-tagh on the east. About 10 miles west of this point is the Bir-dish P^iss, over a range which divides this plain from another similar one running nearly parallel to it, viz., the Ak-tash or Ak-su. Opposite the Bir-d^sh Pass the Sarikol plain again widens and extends, gently undulating, for some eight or ten miles further in the same direction.f According to statements of the Kirghiz it continues right up to the Kizil Art Pass, which separates it from the Alai, and the valley of the Surkhab River, the most northerly tributary of the Oxus. The height of the valley above sea level may be taken at Tagharma at about 10,500 feet, and I doubt whether it is veiy much higher in any part of its course. The drainage of the southern portion passes through the Tagharma plain into the Sarikol River ; * Over these mountains is a road to Tarkand, which descends into the Tang valley and after passing down it for a march or two, crosses the Arpatalek Mountains, and enters the Turkestan plain near Kosherap. t Thus ikr I myself saw, &om the ridge dividing the Tagharma from the Tashkurghan Plain. ( 269 ) and in a somewhat central position on its east edge^ I would place the lake of Kichik Karakul^'^ aboat three short days^ march north of Tdshkurghdn. Farther north again^ south of the Kizil^ Art Pass^ is the larger Lake Karakul^ from which a stream is said to flow westward into the Manghabi river. I have shown in my map^ what I consider the approximate positions of the various lakes and mountain ranges in those regions^ but I of course cannot guarantee 'the accuracy of anything off our own line of march. The Tagharma plain presented a very lively spectacle : fully 100 Kirghiz akoees were within view, scattered about in different parts of the valley ; their tenants, of the Sark or Syok tribe, bring subjects of the Amir of K4shghar. Open, grassy, well watered, and speckled all over with camels, yaks, horses, sheep, and goats it formed a pleasant sight after the wilds through which we had been wandering, and was a striking contrast to the Tashkurghan valley, which looked by comparison a picture of desolation, owing to the numerous uninhabited villages and tumble down houses with which it is covered. The water from the warm springs which issue in numerous places from the earth, causes the young green grass to rise (in April) in great profusion. Formerly in the south-east portion of the Tagharma valley, at Kila-i-Tagharma or Besh Eurghan (the five forts) there were about 50 houses inhabited by Tajiks, under Sarikdl. Their history has been a sad one. I got into conversation there with an old man, who told me that nearly each fort had its history. In the principal one, some thirty years ago, resided Mahomed Alum, the Hakim of Sarikol. He was attacked by a number of Andij^nis from the north, himself and many of his followers killed, and the remainder carried into slavery ; my informant with only one or two others escaping into the neighbouring hills. At the fort where I was standing, fifteen years later, the Kanjudis had made a raid from the south, and had killed or carried into slavery the whole of the inhabitants. Two young men standing by me had been carried off in this very raid as children, and sold as slaves in Y&kand, where they had been released shortly after the accession of the Atdlik to power, but they had only within the last month been allowed to return to their homes, where four Tajik families now represent the fifty that had formerly lived there. They were doing their best, with the help of some of the neighbouring Kirghiz, to put their fields into order, and I there saw, for the first time in my travels, the j&k yoked to the plough. There is much culturable ground, and it is to be hoped that this recommencement of cultivation on a small scale is only the prelude to a larger. In the time of the Chinese rule, such was the insecurity in these parts, that the inhabitants of Sarikol dared not wander far from their villages, for fear of being seized and carried ofE either by the Kii^hiz from the Alai, or by their neighbours of Kanjud ; now they tell me that if a man drops his toAip in the middle of tiie plain, he will find it there if he looks for it a year afterwards. This is a favourite sa}dng amongst the people of Eastern Turkestan, which I have heard more than once employed tc> describe the sense of security enjoyed under the present rSgime, On our return to Y&rkand we passed along the south edge of the Tagharma plain. The direct distance from Tashkurghan to the foot of the Darschatt ravine leading to the Kok Main&k Pass is about twelve miles ; thence to the pass itself (15,800 feet) is six miles, by a veiy difficult and stony road. The pass is four miles from the small lakes on the Chichiklik plain. The fort of Tashkurghan, said to be of very ancient date, and to have been founded by Afrasiab, the King of Turan, has been described by former travellers who had a better oppor- tunity for inspecting it than we had. The " Takhsobai,^^ or Governor, evinced so great a dis- incliiiation to receive our visit there, that we had to content ourselves with inspecting it from a distance. The part at present inhabited is apparently of modem construction, and built of * The waters &om thiB lake are said to form the Yamunyar River, which flowing through the Chakar Aghil defile eastward, under the name of Gez Biver, enters the plains under the name of Yamunyar, and, as before mentioned, divides into several branches near the villages of Tashbalig and Opal and irrigates a great portion of the country south of Kashghar. a40 ( 270 ) stones and mud^ but there were in places remains of '^ roughed '' stone &eings on the sides of the rock on which the fort is built In its neighbourhood are numerous fragments of broken wall^ but I could not recognize any continuous line marking out its former limits. Taking a hint from Sir Henry Rawlinson^s writings^ I kept on the look-out for Buddhist remainB, but could see nothing. The Pandit (who accompanied us as far as Sarikol)^ seemed to think that the custom which prevails throughout the whole country between Turkestan and Wakhin of heaping up skulls and horns of sheep and wild animals at the different zidrats or tombs^ was. a relic of ancient Buddhism. I believe that the custom is common through- out the whole of Central Asia. It certainly is so in Ladikh and Eastern Turkestan. From Tashkurghdn to Panjah there are two roads commonly used by merchants; the first, over the little P4mir, was followed by us on the outward journey, is generally used in winter; the second is over the great Pdmir and is used in sunmier. The latter is the easier road, but passes over much higher ground than the former and is impassable for caravans in winter, on account of the deep snow lying on it. A third alternative road is by the T%hdum- bfish V&nnx* at the head of the Sarikol valley. It lies high, and in midwinter is deep in snow: in former years it was much used by the Bajaorif merchants, who used to go from Bdddkhsh^ to Ydrkand by the Taghdumbash and Tung valley roads, thus keeping at the greatest possible distance from the Alai Kirghiz, whom they seem to have feared more than they did the Kunjiidis. On the Great and Little P&mir routes the first two marches, i.e., to the west foot of the Neza Tash or Shindi Pass, are common to both lines of road, which meet again opposite the village of Zan^ at the junction of the two large streams which form the Panjah Biver, the most southerly branch of the Oxus. Leaving T&shkurghdn on the 2nd April, our road lay nearly due west for four miles, up a stream which issues from the Shindi mountains through a narrow and difficult defile. | The water, which even thus early in the season flows in considerable quantity, combines with the rocky nature of the bed of the river, which has to be crossed and recrossed in numerous places, to make the road exceedingly difficult for laden horses. After passing four miles up the defile we reached a camping ground called Jangalik situated in a well wooded open valley, about two miles long by half a mile broad. It is often used as a halting-place by travellers, but we continued up the valley to Kanshubar, a march altogether of 16 miles. Shortly before reaching camp we passed numerous hot springs. We pushed on the next day in a south-west direction until we reached the foot of the Neza Tash Diwan, where we turned westward, and passing over a low spur continued our way up the valley, entering a large basin with lofty mountains towering above us on both sides, very bold and precipitous, and of a very peculiar and striking ferruginous colour.§ A stiff pull through the snow to the top of the pass (14,915 feet above the sea level) and we were standing on the water-shed between Eastern and Western Turkestan. I had been given to understand that we should here come in view of the " Pamirs^' and was somewhat surprised at seeing in front of me nothing but a long range of low red colored hills about ten miles distant, a portion of which to the right was pointed out to me as the Great Piniir, and another on the left as the little P^mir. Nothing was visible but an irregular mass of hills whose serrated tips did not appear to rise more than 1,000 feet above the Pass on which I was standing. In front lay a large valley running in a northerly direction which subsequently turned out to be that of the Aksu River, the principal source, as now appears of the Oxus||. The apparent continuity of the range in front of us was, as we shall hereafter see, a delusion ; the hills really form the ends of broad transverse ranges, running in a westerly .^ f I - -!■ -— ■-_■_ , ■ ^ — , .^^^^— ^^^^-fc»^— ^M^^^ * It is said that Alif Beg fled from Sarikol by this route. t The district of Bafaor or Bi^aur lies to the west of Swat, and its inhabitants are well known as enterpris- ing traders. The rocks forming this defile were composed of gneiss. These mountains, Dr. Stoliczka informed me, were composed of tnassic limestone. Which name is perhaps derived, as Yenoikof suggests, mm Ak-sd. ( 271 ) direction, and separating the various Pamir valleys, which were concealed from our view by the low hills in front. Descending from the Neza Tash Pass a march of a few miles in a westerly direction, through heavy snow, brought us to our camp at Kogachak, which is about three miles above the junction of the stream from the pass, with the Ak-su River. On the following day (3rd from T^shkurgh^n) crossing the spur between the two streams we descended into the valley of the Ak-sii, a littie north of Ak-tash, * at an elevation of 12,600 feet above the sea. We continued south for six miles up the valley, which was here about two miles broad, and deep in snow. In front of us was a fine range of snow covered peaks, running in a direction a littie south of west, forming the southern boundary of the little P^mir, which is really the upper portion of the Aksu valley. The latter as we advanced, gradually turns round south-west by south which direction it retains up to and beyond the lake of littie Pamir. The Littie P^mir is generally considered to commence near where we entered the Ak-su stream, and consists of a long, nearly level, grassy valley, varying from two to four miles in breadth and enclosed on either side by ranges of snow covered lulls sloping down rather gently towards it. Its length from east to west is about 68 miles. The Great P&mir, and all other P&mirs are as &r as I could learn, of precisely similar character. The ground intervening between the Great and Littie P&mirs is filled up with lofty moimtains of tolerably uniform height and without any very conspicuous peaks, the hills to the west near the junction of the two main branches of the Panjah River being perhaps the highest. Our first halt in the Littie P^ir was at Onkul, after a march of 25 miles for a great part of the way over snow, and with such a very bitter wind blowing in our faces, that it was almost impossible to hold aa instrument in one s hand. After entering the long straight reach above the turning, near Ak-tash, several large open valleys are passed on the north, where the hills are comparatively low and undulating, those on the south side . being generally much higher. Our second day^s march (4th from T^hkurgh^n) through this P&mir took us along an almost level xoad for 24 miles. As on the previous day, snow covered mountains lay on both sides as we advanced, and there was a great deal of snow in the valley itself which varied in breadth from 2 to Si miles. There was often a g^d deal of saline matter in the soil, and where this was the case the snow generally melted long before it did so elsewhere. Our camp was on the north edge of the Little Pdmir Lake, which has been given by recent travellers the very different names of Barkut Yassin, Chalap, and Gez Kul or Goose Lake (Turki, Oi-kul). I made repeated enquiries as to its proper name, and found that the Wakhis generally call it the Kul-i-Pamir Khurd, or lake of Little Pamir, while the Sarik61is and Yilrkandis give it the name of Oi-kul. As some doubts had been expressed, as to the supposed double exit from this lake, I was naturally very anxious to determine the point, and in ascending the valley on this day's march I took at some twenty different points, observations with aneroid barometers to determine, if possible, the exact water-shed, which from previous accounts I had fully expected to find at the east end of the lake. The ground, however, was so level for several miles there being a rise of only 230 feet in the 24 miles between Onkul and the lake, that the aneroid was not sufficiently delicate for the purpose, and although I walked for a considerable distance on the frozen stream to enable me to satisfy myself on the subject, I arrived in camp on the banks of the lake re-infectd. The following morning I walked over the lake to its east end, which from a littie distance off appeared entirely closed, but on walking round the head to make certain, I was soon undeceived by coming across a very narrow outlet, about nine paces across, and only a few inches deep, all ice of course. I then walked several miles down the stream (east) until I became fuUy convinced that its bed did slope to the east and drain into the Ak-su. This result being contrary to what I had anticipated, I then rode to the west end of the lake to see whether (as has always been supposed) a stream issued from that end also. I left my horse and started 'on foot to go round its head; the ice at this * Three miles distant fiK>m Kogachak. ( 272 ) end^ instead of being firm and strongs as at the other^ was very brittle and woald not bear my weighty so I had to wade through the heavy snow and slush on its banks. I soon came across a warm springs from which water was decidedly flowing due east. A little further on I encountered a frozen stream^ on going along which westward the barometer showed that I was walking up hill. I advanced still further^ hoping to get completely round the head of the lake, so as to be quite certain that there was no outlet draining westward^ but the walking in the deep snow at so great an elevation had completely exhausted both myself and the man who was with me^ and it was with some difficulty that I got back to my horse^ and hurrying on with no guide bu{ the tracks in the snow left by the rest of the party^ it was with great difficulty that I reached camp, 20 miles from the lake, shortly after dark. On the return journey, the Ressaldar came back by this road, and, according to a promise he had made me, rode completely round the head of the west end of the lake up to the foot of the steep mountain rising on the south side. The snow was then all melted, and water was flowing into the lake from the two sources I have just described, and nothing was flowing out. He then went to the east end, whence a stream was flowing towards Ak t&h, so this problem has been solved in a-somewhat unexpected manner. The lake has only one outlet, and that eastward, and its waters flow into the Ak-su, afterwards the Murghdbi, which joins the Oxus near W^mar, and is in all prohability the longest branch of the Oxus, I have tried hard to discover the true onward course of this Ak-su River. On our return journey we struck it some 14 miles north-north-west of Ak-tash. It flows thence in a northerly direction for 12 miles and then turns oS. out of sight north-north-west. It is said to flow in a northerly direction for two marches (say 40 miles) from Ak-tash, after which it either joins, or becomes, the Murgh&bi River changing its course westward and flowing through the Sariz Pdmir to Shighnin. It passes through Bartang, a district of Roshan and joins the river Oxus just above Kila Wimar, the chief town of Roshan. The Little P£mir Lake is 13,200 feet above the sea level. It lies from south-west by west to north-east by east, and for a length of 8^ miles is from 1 to li miles in width; it narrows considerably eastward, where, for about 1^ miles it is nowhere more than a few himdred yards in breadth. Nearly opposite the south-east corner, in a side ravine is a large glacier which drains into the Aksii stream shortly after tiie latter emerges from the lake. The road passes along the north side of the lake and crosses the watershed two miles beyond the west end at a height of not more than 150 feet above the margin of the lake. Other parts of the watershed, which is nowhere well defined, are probably still lower. The descent beyond is somewhat rapid ; we passed on our left a small stream which rises near the watershed, and takes the drainage of the hills to the south-west of the lake. We went for about seven miles down an open valley, (crossing several small streams flowing down large open ravines on the north), and reached some deserted Kirghiz huts and tombs called 6ombaz-i-Bozai, close to where a large stream, the principal affluent of the Sarhadd branch of the Oxus, comes in from the south-east. This river has it source in the Kanjud mountains on the west side of the Kdr^chunkar Pass^ which crosses the Shmdi or P^mir Range, south of the Neza Tiish Pass, and separates the Taghdumb^sh drainage from tlie head waters of the Oxus. After passing Gomb&z our path lay on the right bank of the Sarhadd stream, where we met with a constant succession of steep ascents and descents. The regular path had often to be quitted in order to avoid drifts of snow, which in places lay very deep. In the winter, when the stream is completely frozen over, its hard surface makes a capital road, which is always used by travellers. We passed at a bad season of the year, too late to be able to keep to the ice with safety as it was now breaking up, and yet before the snow on the upper road was melted. Later on in the hot weather, ti^e lower road becomes altogether impracticable, as it is impossible * The road before mentioned which was onoe much frequented by Bejaori merchants crosses the Kaiachnnkar Pass. It is now but little used. ( 273 ) to cross the then swollen river.'^ After a while our road left the main valley which makes a detour to the left and ascends a gentle slope to a low pass^ crossing which the path returns along anoth^ broad valley to our camp at Langar. This point has been considered the end of the Pamir, but I should rather be inclined to consider Gombaz-i-Bosai as the true ending. This would reduce its length from Aktash to about 66 miles. Our next day's march (6th from T&shkurgh^n) was to Dardz Diwan, a distance of 16 miles; the road soon struck the main valley and continued along its northern side over a constant succession of ascents and descents^ passing occasionally through snow in deep patches. We saw on the hill side a large number of jimiper trees, and in some of the side ravines were birch trees and wild roses. In fact, wherever water trickled down there were signs of vegetation, but everywhere else the hills were bare. In one or two places the road descended to the river bank ; in places the stream was entirely frozen over, the water flowing underneath, elsewhere it was altogether clear of ice. At two or three such places I estimated the breadth to be about 40 feet, depth & feet, and velocity 2i miles per hour, temperature of water 85*'. Before reaching camp was a very steep descent, having a fall of over 1,000 feet, which it only took a quarter of an hour to walk down. The river is here called by various names, Kanjud, Sarhadd, Panj^h, and Hamun. The last name I have heard more than once, and it is of course the same as " Amti.^' Wakhin seems to be but little better ofE than Turkestan in the numerous names borne by the same stream. Our seventh day's march (8th April) was at first, as hitherto, on the right bank of the stream, the road crossing high spurs by very steep ascents and descents (which lead me to suppose that this was the road followed by Marco rolo) . There are three roads used at different times of the year, one (in midwinter) on the surface of the frozen stream, a second which we followed, occasionsdly along the stream, but \riiich generally passed over spurs, and a third, much higher up, and avoiding the stream altogether. We passed several small tributary streams and between the fifth and seventh miles we had to cross the main stream many times where it passed through very steep hills. We crossed generally over ice and snow bridges. At last we emerged into a large open gravelly plain wateied by several streams and soon arrived at the village of Sarhadd (h^ of the boundary), the highest inhabited village of the Wakhin valley, and situated about 11,000 feet above the sea. The march was only 11 miles, but difficult. We were here met by Ali Murdan Shah, the eldest son of the Mir of Wakhan, who had marched out from Panjah to meet us. On the 8th day (from Tfehkurgh£n) we took a very short march of only four miles to the large village of Patuch or Patur. From this day forward, in order to avoid all cause of suspicion, I took no observations on the road, but accompanied the rest of the party on the march. We were now a large detachment, as we were always escorted by the Mir Bachcha and his somewhat ragged following. This march was, while it lasted, the most trying I have ever experienced, owing to the intense bitterness of the cold wind and drifting snow which blew in our faces the whole way. From Patuch to Kila Panjah, the residence of the Chief of Wakh&n, there is not much of geographical interest to notice. At Yur, 15 miles west of Patuch, a very difficult pathway crosses the mountains to Chitral, and at Yost, about seven miles short of the junction of the two Pimir streams, there is a small fort which covers the entrance of a valley up which another footpath leads to Chitnil. The road from Patuch to Panjah, about fifty miles in length, lay along the valley of the Sarhadd stream, sometimes on one side of it, sometimes on the other. The vaUey was bounded on both sides by lofty and generally precipitous mountains, of whose height it was impos- sible to form any idea, as their tops and the greater part of their sides were always wrapped in clouds and mists. It was perhaps fortunate for me that I was unable to use my instruments, as I know nothing more disheartening to a surveyor than proceeding for days down a valley under such circumstances. Villages were scattered all along the road on both sides of the stream. In the whole distance from Sarhadd to Panjah there are probably about 400 houses, and their comer turrets, like those in the Sarikdl valley, are evidence that the inhabitants have not fallen upon mueh easier times than their neighbours of Sarikol. The houses are not so good as those of Turkestan, and are apparently especially designed to keep out the wind, which seems always to be blowing violently either up or down the valley, generally speaking from west in the * The road by the gpreat Pamir is then adopted. a41 ( 274 ) mornings and from east in the afternoon. On entering a house one generally passes throngfa th« stables^ containing two or three horses or oows^ after which one traverses a long winding narrow passage^ which leads to the centre of the house which is generally very small and dirty. In the centre is a fire-place^ a kind of globe-shaped stove^ about 2^ feet in diameter^ made of mud^ and open in front for the passage of air and fire-wood. Above^ is a hole in the timber roof for y.entilation. The roof is dome-shaped^ supported on cross-beams resting on timber uprights which surround the central fire-place^ and help to support the side apartments which all open inwards towards the fire and to one another. Here the different members of the family reside. The larger portion of the house is given up to the females^ who^ somewhat bashful but good humoured, appear to have a very good idea of keeping the men of the household in decent subjection. The males all wear brown woollen choga% or cloaks of country make; pubboe9 or boots of the same kind as are worn by the Ladikhis; loose trowsers of the same material as the coat; and a generally scanty cotton turban, the almost universal colour of which is blue and white. The women, who are not over good-looking, but are pleasant and matron-like, dress very much like the men^ and have long plaits of hair falling down the side of their heads. There is no artificial modesty or attempt to conceal their faces. In a cottage where we took refuge the females remained present the whole time we were there, and made some most excellent barley bread for us, kneading the flour into a cake which they plastered into the inner wall of the oven ; after frequent turning a capital result was secured. Their physiognomies are very divergent, most of them have Jewish noses, but one boy I saw with a most perfect Greek profile. They all age vezy early, and attribute their grey hairs to the poverty of the country. The men seem affectionately disposed towards the females, always handing them fruits, sweetmeats, or any little trifles we might happen to give them. They are all poor; money and ornaments seem almost unknown, and hardly anything is seen in their houses tiiat is not the produce of the country. At Sarhadd the temperature of the water was 32^. At Yur I found it to be 40^ while the stream was about 60 feet in width, one and a half feet in depth, with a velocity of two and a half miles an hour. Near Yur we passed a large stream on the right, and another on the left bank. Throughout the valley there was much jungle wood, and some old coarse graaa, but up to date (April 10th) we saw no signs of spring, neither trees budding, nor grass sprouting. The road throughout is very stony, but not o^erwise bad. In many places the tributary streams have brought down inmiense quantities of stones and debrU, which threaten to block up the main stream. This dSbrU generally spreads in a fan«like shape, from where the tributary stream opens into the main valley, and causes the river to flow round the base of the fan. At Bibiltangi, the valley, which from Sarhadd had varied from three miles to one mile in width, is confined by precipitous mountains to a breadth of about one-third of a mile. It soon opens again however, and shortly after leaving Sas (about IS miles above Panjah) it enlarges considerably, and gradually opens into a considerable plain, being joined a few miles above Panjah by the vallev containing the stream from Upper Pimir. Before the junction the Sarhadd stream pc^sses for several miles through rather dense jungle composed of red and white willows. On our march into 2iang (near the junction of the streams) we crossed the river of the Great P&mir here about SO feet wide, one foot deep, with a velocity of about three miles per hour. It was very considerably smaller than the river we had followed from Sarhadd. Where the streams meet the valley is about three and a half miles wide and almost entirely covered with jungle. It narrows gradually towards Panjah, where it has a breadth of two miles. The height of Panjah above the sea I found to be but little more than 9,000 feet. The vegetation in the valley was very backward, much thrown back doubtless by the violent winds which tear up and down with a bitterness difficult to imagine unless it has been felt. The grass was beginning to show signs of sprouting in the middle of April, and the cultivators were then commencing to turn up the soil preparatory to sowing. The Oxus Biver flows on the north side of the valley, and on its left bank is Panjah, between which and the mountain range to the south, a distance of nearly two miles, the ground is almost com- pletely covered by fields, irrigated by a stream which issues from a large ravine on the south, and is derived from a laige glacier which entirely blocks up the valley in which it is situated, ( 276 .) and whose foot merging into a snow bed^ is not more tiian 1^000 f e^t higher than the Oxub vaUey. At the head of the ravine containing this glacier are some snowy peaks^ about sit milei^ to the south,* which I estimated to be between 17,000 and 18,000 feet in height; they appeared to be on spurs of the Hindoo Koosh Range. It was most annoying being shut up at the bottom of a deep valley, and unable to get a nearer view of these peaks, but there was no help for it, the ravines entering the main valley from north and south were generally inacces- sible, the one on the south being, as I before mentioned, blocked up by an enormous g'lacier, which was quite impassable, while those on the north are almost vertical chasms which looked as if the mountain had been split up by an earthquake. During our stay at Punjab, I ascended the mountains to the norUi to a height of about 3,000 feet above the valley only to find that I was on the lower portion of a nluch higher range behind, which obscured all view further north, while the hills to the south of the Oxus were so high that they intercepted the view of any peaks on the main range of the Hindoo Koosh that might otherwise have been seen beyond ; in fact I could see very little more than from the ground below. On the only other fine day that we had during our stay at Fanjah I went down the valley for about 12 miles, but saw little more than one or two peaks of the range to north. Panjah itself is, or rather was, built on five small hillocks, hence perhaps its name,t and I have no doubt in my own mind that the river takes its name from the place, and not the place from the river. These five hillocks are situated near each other on the left bank of the stream, the largest is covered by a fort, the residence of the Mir Fateh Ali Sh£h, and most of his followers, the other is of nearly equal size, covered by houses, and surrounded by a strong wall ; on two others are small fortified buildings, while on the fifth there are nothing but ruins and graves. These fortified buildings (in one of which resides Alif Beg, ex-nder of Sarikdl) from their near proximity to each other, and commanding situation, form a position of con- siderable strengtii, and might hold out against an attacking force for some time if artillery were not brought against &em, The Mirs of Wakh^n have more than once held out in this stronghold against the forces of the Ruler of B&d^khshin to which country they are subject. The whole population of Panjah perhaps does not exceed a hundred and fifty souls. The district of Wakhan has been described by former travellers. It comprises the valleys containing the two heads of the Panjah branch of the Oxus, and the valley of the Fanjah itself, from the junction at Zung down to Ishkashim. The northern branch of the Panjah has its principal source in the Lake Victoria in the Great Pamir, which, as well as the Little P£mir belongs to Wakh&n, the Ak-tash River forming the well recognized boundary between Kashgharia and Wakhan. Both of the Pamirs were thickly inhabited by Kirghiz in former years, subject to W&khan, but they are now unoccupied, the constant feuds * Their exact diatanoe I waa nnabje to determine, as they could only be seen up the ravine, which has too narrow to permit of a base being measured across it of sufficient length to enable an accurate estiinate to be made of the distance of the peaks. t "Panj" is the Fersian for "five." One poesible deriratiion of the word Panjah is given above. Som0 authorities would derive the word from the five rivers which are supposed to form the head waters of the river on which Kila Panjah stands. There are two olgections to this theory : — 1st. — It is contrary to the custom of Turkestan to name a place after a river, and to a hundred oases that I know of where the converse holds good, i,e*, a river is named after a place on its banks, I do not know a single instance of a place being named after a river. ^nd. — The word is usually pronounced Panjah, which is nearer in sound to the Persian word " Pinjah" or fifty. The true origin of the word J oelieve to be from the Panjah or palm (of the hand) of Hazrat Ali (the son- in-law of Muhammad). Jn a building on a small hill about 2 miles to the south of Kila Panjah is a stone bearing the impress of a hand. Local tradition says that when this countr^r Was in the hands of the Zar-dushtis, or atash-parasi (fire worshippers) the people were converted to the reli^on of Muhammad bv a visit (in the spirit) from Hazrat Ali, who left his mark on the stone as thus described, which is an object of religious veneration in the ne^hbourhood. At Bar Panjah in Shighnan is a similar mark over which the Fort " Bar Paiyah," " ovtr the ranjah," has been built Possibly this tradition has something in conmion with that which attributes the derivation of the word Pimfr to " Pa-e-Mfr," i.e., the foot of the Mir Hazrat Ali. I would myself be inclined to derive the word &om ** Pam," the Kirghiz word for roof, and "yer," which is both Turki and Kirghiz, &>r " earth" corresponding to the Persian word " Zamin." Bam-i-dunya or " roof of the world" is a name by which the Pamir is well known. ( 276 ) between the Shighnis^ the Wakhis^ the Kirghiz of the Alai^ and the Kanjadis, having rendered the country quite unsafe. The highest inhabited village in the northern valley is Langar Kisht^ only a few miles above the junction^ and on the right bank of the stream. Th^ Sarhadd valley (the southern branch) is inhabited from Sarhadd downwards^ and there are villages scattered along both banks of the Panjah river down to Ishkashim. W&khin formerly contained three " sads'^ or hundreds, i.e., districts, containing 100 houses each — 1^^. — Sad-i-Kila Yost or Sarhadd extending from Langar to Hissar. 2nd, — Sad Sipanj^ from Hissar to Khandut. Srd. — Sad Khandut from Khandut to Sad Ishtragh. To these three Sads has recently been added that of Sad Ishtragh, which I believe only became a portion of Wakhan in recent times. It lies between Khandut and the State of Ishkashim.f Abdul Subhin estimates the number of houses in Sad Ishtragh at 250, and allowing 100 for each of the other districts this gives a total of 550 houses, with a popula- tion of about 3,000 souls. The OxiM below Wakhdn. I have now to deal with one of the most interesting geographical problems of the day, viz,, the probable course of the Oxus or Panjah from the point where it leaves Wakh&n to where it emerges in the plains north of Said village on the frontiers of Kolib, where it has been seen and described by our countryman, Lieutenant Wood. My assistant, Abdul Subh^n, left us at Kila Panjah (the most westerly point reached by the European members of the Mission), and followed the course of the Oxus through Wakhin for 63 miles to Ishkashim, thence turning northwards he followed the same river for nearly a hundred miles, passing successively through the districts of Ghiiran, Shighniln, and Bosh&n, countries which have hitherto been known to us hardly even by name. From his report I have obtained the information following. The small State of Ishkashim forms, together with Zebik, one of the numerous petty feudal States tributary to Badakhshin. The present ruler of both these small districts is Sh^h Abdul Bahim, a Syud of Khorassan, who was placed in power by Muhanmiad Alum Khan, the present Governor of Balkh. It is said that the hereditary Chief of the country, Mir Hak Nazar, was ejected in order to make room for Abdul Bahim. The present territory of Ishkashim extends for about 16 miles to the north of the village of the same name, which now contains about forty houses, and consists, as is generally the case in those parts, of numerous scattered farm houses. There are small villages throughout this district on both banks of the Oxus; Sumchun and two others on the right bank, and Y&kh-duru and Sar-i-Shakh on the left. These belonged to Sad Ishtragh, which was once a separate principality, but is now a district of Wakhdn. The road from Ishkashim rnns along the left bank of the river up to six miles beyond Sar-i-Shakh, where the river is crossed by an easy ford. In the month of May the water flowed in a single stream, which was 3^ feet deep and about 200 yards in width. In summer it is impossible to cross the river at this point, and a very difficult path leading dong the left bank is followed. Down to this point the valley is open, four or five miles in breadth and richly cultivated. The ford marks the boundary between Ishkashim and the district of Kuchek Oharan or ^^ narrow caves,^' which has been for centuries famous for its ruby mines. The Ghiran country extends along both banks of the Oxus for about twenty- four miles, and was once upon a time rich, flourishing, and populous. Remains of large villages exist on both banks, and bear witness to the oppression that has been exercised by successive Governors of Badakhsh^n. The fields near these deserted villages are now culti- vated by the inhabitants of the neighbouring districts of R&gh (the chief town of which is Kila Masniij) and Sar Gholdm:^ which are at a distance of a long day's journey on the further side of a range of hills, running parallel to and on the left bank of the river. Bar^kir * Sad-i-Panjah. t Written in tbe yernacular Skikashem. X Subordinate to Badakhsh&n. ( 277 > or " above the river/' situated four miles below the f ord^ is the first of these large deserted villages. A little beyond it a large stream enters the Oxus from the east deriving its name^ the Boguz^ from a village of some 30 houses situate ten miles up the stream. From this village a road goes to the Shikhdarah district of Shighnan. Near the junction of the Boguz with the Panjah the road crosses to the left bank of the river. Nearly opposite to Barsh&r is a ravine by which a road goes over the Aghirda Pass to Faizabad^ the chief town of Badakhsh^n. It is said to be open all the year round. Throughout the remainder of the Ghiran district numerous ruins are passed on both sides of the stream^ the largest of which^ Shekh Beg, on the right bank, must formerly have contained about 200 houses. On the same side of the river some sixteen miles below Barshar are the celebrated ruby mines, once the source of considerable wealth to the Rulers of Badakhshan, but now apparently nearly exhausted. These mines have until lately always been worked for the immediate benefit of the Governors of Badakhsh^n. At the present time some 30 men are employed there under the orders of a few sepoys belonging to Muhammad Alum Khan, the Governor of Turkestan, who sends the produce to the Amir of Cabul. It was said that during the past year one large ruby about the size of a pigeon's egg was found and sundry smaller ones, the whole of which were sent to the Amir. The rubies are found in one very large cavern to which there are three entrances, situated about 1,000 feet above the river, and about a mile up the hill side ; the task of excavating appears to be not unattended with risks, as three workinen were recently killed, having fallen from the rocks while searching for the precious stones. There is a peculiar kind of soft white stone which is found imbedded in the harder rock and in this the rubies are found. In former years the inhabitants of Gh^ran who worked these mines paid no taxes and held •their lands rent-free. The twenty men who are now employed at the mines have to furnish their own food as well as that of the guard, and also to provide lights, torches, and implements for working. The numerous deserted villages prove the possession of the mines to have been a curse rather than a blessing to the inhabitants of the valley, who have from time immemorial been under the direct rule of the Chief of Badakhsh^n. Above the mines is a small village called Koh-i-Lal or " Ruby Mountain,'' and about one mile below them on the opposite bank of the river is the large deserted village of Shekhbeg whose ruined houses are built with stone and lime.* A small river enters at Shekhbeg on the left bank, and four miles up it lies the village of Ghiran B4M said to contain about 100 houses, invisible from the river. A few miles below Shekhbeg on the right bank of the Panjah is the village of " Garm Chashma " (hot springs) where a large stream of warm water joins the main river. On the banks of this stream the Munshi saw 20 or 30 men employed in washing the sand for gold. They were Badakhshis, and farmed the washings of the Gh£ran district for Rupees 200t per annum paid to the Ruler of Badakh- sh£n. It is only within the last two years that gold has been found in this district. Three miles beyond this is the Kuguz Parin,J the boundary between Gh&ran and Shighndn. The road throughout the Gh&an district lies along the banks of the Panjah, and is in places very diflicult to traverse. The valley near Barshar contracts to about one mile in width, and the road runs over large boulders sdongside the river, which flows between nearly perpencU- cular banks ; the stream is narrow and swift being not more than 200 feet across, and is almost a continuous succession of rapids. Throughout the district the Panjah valley is nowhere much more than a mile in width, and is xonfined by very precipitous mountains ; the river is everywhere deep. In Ghdran apricots of very large size and fine flavour are produced ; these are held in great repute in Badakhshiin. Apples and pears are met with in abundance; and. but little grain is grown. There is abundance of grass and fuel to be found at the various camping groimds throughout the valley. The water of the Panjah is rarely or never used for • * The villages in these countries are usually built of stone and mud. t About twenty pounds sterling. t Euguz Parin in Shighu dialect means "holes in the rock." The Persian equivalent is "Bafak-i- Somakh." a4i2 ( 278 ) irrigation or for water mills. In the hot weather^ oxen^ horses^ and sheep (for which the country is famous) are driven up side yallejs to the tops of the mountains for grazing^ returning to the yalley in October in splendid condition. Kuguz Parin consists of a tunnel passing through a mountain. On the south side^ the road rises by a winding stone staircase^ for a height of about 200 feet^ to the mouth of the tunnel, which is excavated through solid rock, and is about 100 paces in length, and so narrow and low that it is impossible for a loaded horse to traverse it. The tunnel is said to have been constructed some three hundred years ago. Where the road emerges on the north side the path is so narrow that a projecting mass of rock often precipitates animals into the foaming torrent beneath. The river is here about 150 yards in width, and flows some 500 feet below the mouth of the tunnel.''^ The Shighnis boast of this place as the natural safeguard of their country, and call it their " father.'^ From Euguz Parin the Oxus flows through the country of Shighn^n, which extends for a distance of sixty miles down to the Darband Tower on the frontier of Rosh&n. This tower is situated on a high rock standing over the river, towards which it presents a perpendi- cular scarp of about 150 feet. The water beneath is very deep. The roadway winds round the tower,t and the ascent on both sides is very steep and difficult. The Shighnis call this place their " " mother.^' It is a common saying in the country that if ever there should be a quarrel between Shighnan and Rosh&n, whichever State first seizes this tower wiU keep posses- sion of both countries. The river is here barely a gunshot across, and there is no path whatever on the other side. This country of Shighnan would appear to be richer and of much more importance than Wakhan and other districts of Badakhshin with which we are acquainted. From Euguz Parin to Darband Tower there are numerous villages scattered along both banks of the river4 These are surrounded with gardens, orchards and well cultivated lands. The chief town. Bar PaDJah,§ is on the left bank, and with its suburbs probably contains about 1,500 houses. The palsbce is inside the fort, and is built of stone ; the windows have shutters outside as in Cabul and Cashmere. The fort itself is square, each side being about 500 paces in length. The walls are very strong, and about 40 feet high, built of clay, stone, and wood. There are five loopholed towers, bat these contain no big guns. There is a garrison of about 400 soldiers, who are mostly armed with swords manufactured in the coun^ itself, and with guns, said to be made by the Kirghiz, similar to those which are supplied to the Kashghar troops viz.^ heavy rifled weapons which are fired resting on the ground, the muzzle being supported on a prong attached to the barrel of the rifle. Lead and all the materials employed in the manufacture of gunpowder are found in the country. The valley at Bar Panjah is about four miles wide and contains a great many houses and gardens. The river runs in numerous channels separated by jungle covered islands. Short punt shaped boats, similar to those in Central India, are ilsed at the ferry. In July and August, when there is much water in the river, all travellers have to cross at Bar Panjah, to the other bank, the road on the left bank being then impracticable. In its passage through Shign^n the Oxus receives two considerable afiluents on the left bank, the Shewa and Vacherv River. The former is crossed by a good bridge, and was about 25 yards in width, and unfordable, when the Munshi passed in May. It flows from a lake in the Shewi Pamir, a favored pasture ground much frequented by herds of horses, sheep, and cattle from Badakhshan. The owners of these flocks are said to make payments to the King of Shighnan for the right of grazing there. The Vacherv River is about the same size as the Shewa stream, and joins the Panjah to the south of Bar Panjah. Along it lies a much frequented road from Shighnan, over the Shewa Pimir, to Faizabad. * This portion of the route is not improbably the Tan^ Badtiscani of Benedict Goez. t At the tower was a guard of soldiers from Wamur, who examines the passports of all travellers. { The names of these villages and the distances apart will he found in the Appendix. § Or " ahove Panjah" so named from havine been built originally over a stone similar to the one at Oik Panjah, which was supposed to hear the impress of the Panjah ox palm of Hazrat Ali. ( 279 ) On its right bank the Oxus receives one very large river, the Suchin, formed by two large streams^ the Sh^khdara and the Ghund, which unit^ about half a mile before joining the Panjah. The two branches are of about equal size, and the united stream is about two-thirds of the size of the main river, which continues to be called the Ab-i-Panjah. The Such&n stream enters a few miles south of Bar Panjah. The valley opens opposite the junction to a width of about four miles, forming a beautiful well cultivated plain, with a good deal of pasture land, generally covered with horses and cattle from Bar Panjah, which place forms a most picturesque addition to the landscape, situated as it is on a white rock surrounded by trees and gardens^ which extend uninterruptedly a distance of about two miles north of the fort. Both the Sh&khdara and the Ghund Rivers have numerous villages on their banks. On the former at two days' march from Bar Panjah is the large fort of B£ch, the residence of the Oovemor (H^kim) of the Shakhdara district, which is said to contain about 500 houses. The Ohund valley, the chief place on which is Charsim, is said to contain about 700 houses. Roads lie up both these valleys to the Pdmir steppes. The Pamir at the head of the Ohund valley goes by the name of Bugrum&l, and is possibly a continuation of, if not identical with, tibe Alichur P^ir. The direct road to Kashghar up this valley is said to be a much easier road than that by Tashkurgh^n. At S^harv, nine miles north of Bar Panjah, in the Shighnan valley, the river narrows and becomes turbulent and the road is very bad. Sixteen miles further on is the Darband Tower before described. Beyond it lies the territory of Roshdn, a dependency of Shighnan, and ruled by the same King, Yusuf Ali Khan. Two and a half miles beyond Darband is the junction of the Murgh&b River with the Panjah. This is the river I have already traced from its source in the Lake of Little Pamir under the name of Ak-su. It is also said to carry away water from Lakes Kiunkul'^ and Rang-kul. The Panjah valley, which at Darband is very narrow, rapidly widens to five miles, and would be fit for cultivation, but that the ground is frequently flooded by the Murgh^b River. The Munshi crossed the river about two hundred paces above its junction with the Panjah ; the stream was in three channels, and the torrent was so rapid that most of the horses lost their footing. The Panjah stream was very clear, but the Murghdb was red, thick, and muddy. The volume of the latter was considerably larger and its velocity greater than that of the Panjah.t From bank to bank the width of the river bed is about one and a half miles, and of this at least one mile was covered with water. The passage was effected with great difficulty. In the summer floods the water is said to extend from mountain to mountain, a distance of not less than five miles; it can then only be crossed by boats. This river is generally called the Murgh£b, but it is also known by the name of the Darya-i-Bartang, so called from the district of that name through which it flows. Three miles below the junction, on the right bank of the now united rivers^ which still bear the name of Panjah^ is Wiimur, the chief town of Roshin. Wdmur is a flourishing place ; a large Fort j: about the same size as that of Bar-Panjah, is surrounded by several hundred houses and orchards. Fruits and grain grow in abundance^ and the soil is very fertile. The Munshi remained several days at Kila W^mur, where the King of Shighnan was residing.§ He was enabled to visit thence the FatUa 8ang,\( which together with the ruby mines are described in the Sif% as the two sights of Badakhsh&n. It is situated about three and a half miles down the river, underlying the mountains. He extracted * I am myself bj no means sure as to. whether this river does really receive any water firom Lake Karakul. t This statement of the Miinshi is confirmed by other sources of information which I possess. % With a garrison of about 200 men. § The King generally spends the winter months at Eila Wamur returning for the summer to Bar Panjah. II " The wick stone," probably asbestos. ^ The " Sir" is a book wiittra by Moulyi Im4m A£&41» Ehorassani. ( 280 ) some fragments from the rock in situ and brought them away. They consisted of a sort of soft fibrous stone which can be twisted into the shape of a wick, and when satur- ated with oil will bum almost for ever.*^ From the FatQa stone he went two miles further down the river to the village of Pigish, the furthest point reached by him. At this point the OxuSy which from Ishkashim, a distance of about 100 miles, had been flowing due north, takes a sudden bend to the west, and going in that direction for a few miles turns apparently to the north. The Bosh&n territory is divided into three districts— -the Wimur on the right bank embracing the upper portion of the Oxu» valley, and containing about 800 houses. The district of Pa-e-Khoja lies on the left bank of the Oxtm, below the turn to the west before alluded to, and is said to contain about 1,000 houses. It is at a long day's journey below Wamur. This district is inhabited by Khojahs\ who pay no tribute, but give their services as soldiers in time of war. The third district is that of BartangJ which lies up the river of that name, and is said to contain about 500 houses. The direct approach to this district from the Panjah valley is very difficult, owing to the precipitous defiles through which the river passes ; so that the most frequented road between Wamur and Sirich Fort, &e chief place of the Bartang district, lies by the somewhat roundabout way of the Ghund valley. The Munshi gives the following particulars about Shighniin :— '^ The country of Shighn^n and Boshdn is sometimes called Zu jdn (or two-lived) ; its climate and water being so good that a man on entering the district is said to have come into possession of two lives. The inhabitants state that their country is called Lubn&i in the Crulistan of Sheikh S^i of Shiraz, and that it is by this name that their country is known in Persia. Sheikh S^di writes that Hhere is one good Mussulman in Lubn&n' (£k-i- az-Sulhai Lubnin).'' " In time of war, the two countries combined can produce 7,000 armed men, which allowing three men from each two houses would give a present total of about 4,500 for the number of houses in Shighnan and Bosh&n together.^' " The family of the Shah-i-Shighnin originally came from Persia. The first arrival from that country (said to have taken place about from 500 to 700 years ago) was the ' SAaA-i-K/iafnosA/ who was a Syud and a fakir. The country was at that time in the hands of the 2ierdushtis, a very powerful and learned race. The Shah commenced to teach these people the Koran. There were already at this time Mussulmen in the neighbouring country of Darw^z, A.H. 665, and on the arrival of the Shah-i-Khamosh many people flocked thence into Shighnan. In about ten years' time he had converted large numbers of the people, and a civil war commenced which ended in the Shah-i-Khamosh wresting the kingdom from Kahakah, the then Governor of Shighnan and Roshan, under the Zerdushtis, the seat of whose Government was in Balkh. ' After another ten years the whole of the people were converted to the Shiah religion. The tomb of Shah-i-Khamosh now exists at Bar Panjah. Every Thursday people meet to worship there,'' " The Chinese during their occupation of Kashghar used to pay to the surrounding countries a kind of subsidy, in return for which the States to whom the payments were made used to guarantee to keep the roads open, and safe for merchants. For this service the Shah-i-Shighn£n used to receive an annual payment of ten Yamboos ;§ the ruler of Sarikol used to receive six; the Kanjudis four; and the ruler of Wakh&n three." '^ At one period it is said that Wakhdn and Darwaz and all the surrounding States were under the rule of the King of Shighnan." The Munshi did not succeed in bringing back much information about the course of the Oxus below W&mur. The furthest point down the river reached by him was Pigish, a village * Probably asbestos, t t.e., whose ancestors are Sjuds on one side only. J Or " Above the Narrows." § A yamboo is a large piece of silver valaed about Bapees 170 or seventeen pounds sterling. ( 281 ) four or five miles below Wimur. About five miles beyond Pigish on the right bank^ is the village of Bar Rosh&n^ on the frontier of Boshin. At one day's march beyond this^ also on the right bank^ is Waznud^ the frontier village of Darwiz. Between Waznud and Bar Boshan the Pa-e-Khoja valley before alluded to enters the Panjah valley on the south. Five marches along the Panjah beyond Wazniid is Kila Khumb^ the chief town of the country of Darw£z. The road to it along the river is very- di£Scult^ and impassable for laden horses, the valley being very narrow, and the banks of the river very precipitous. Kila Khumb is said to lie in a northerly direction from W&mur and can be reached in three days by a short summer road, which lies up the small stream which enters the Panjah (right bank) at W^mur. The boundary between Darwaz and Shighnin is the water-shd at the head of the Wdmur ravine. * The country of Darwiz possesses villages on both banks of the river Panjah. At Elhiimb itself the fort is on the right bank, but some houses are on the left bank of the river. Below Darwaz is said to be the country of KhatMn, the chief town of which is Koldb. Part of this information, which was supplied by the Munshi as the result of enquiries made by him, is directly contradictory to the existing ideas of the geography of these regions, and I was at one time disinclined to place much reliance on it In plotting on paper the Munshi's route survey, it was found that the course of the Panjah river lies much to the north of the position assigned to it in existing maps. I was at first unable to reconcile this with what little authentic information we have, either from English or Russian sources, but further consideration, and study of the subject, has to a certain extent cleared the matter up. While at Simla, immediately after my return to India^ I was examining some old documents in the Quarter Master Oenerars Office, and lighted on a paper of considerable importance. It was a copy of a document well known to students of Central Asian Geography, viz., the route from Khokand to Peshawur, by the Shahzada Sultan Mahomed, an Envoy who came from Khokand to India in 1854. The peculiarity of this individual copv is that it contains a marginal note that six of the halting places on the route, viz,, ^^ Faizbad, Naruk, Tootkul, Buljuwan, Kulab, and Surchushma, are on the banks of the River Hamoon, which is called Panj by the natives.^' In the margin was a note, bearing the initials of no less a person than the present Lord Lawrence stating that the Hamoon was the same as the Oxus. The significance of the document consists in the fact that Lord Lawrence (who was then Chief Commissioner for the Punjab) was the person who originally took down the statements of the Khokandian Ambassador, who, during his stay at Murree, *' lived for some weeks within a few yards of the Chief Commissioner's residence, and had frequent and intimate intercourse with him.'' It is evident that the document I had lighted on was a copy of the original statement as taken down by Lord Lawrence, whereas all other versions that I have seen, of the same route, omit the note that the six places abovementioned are on the banks of the O^us. The deduction that I made from this note was, that the Surkhdb River probably joined the Oxus or Panjah somewhere above Faizabad and Naruk, and consequently that the latter river took a very considerable detour to the North, as is shown on my Preliminary Map. There were many arguments in support of this view, which it is now unnecessary to enter upon, as one of the Trans Frontier explorers, ^' the Havildar,'' has just returned from a visit to Kolib and Darwaz, and although there has not yet been time to plot the details of his work, sufficient is known to prove that the note to which I have alluded must be erroneous, and consequently the portion of my map which was mainly founded thereon is also erroneous. The true course of the Oxus will, I believe, be found to occupy a position intermediate between those shown on my map and on all preceding ones. Betum to Tarkdnd vilt the Oreat Pdmi/r. Our return route to Y&rkand lay up the north branch of the Panjah River, which flows westwards from Wood's (Victoria) Lake through a portion of the Oreat P^mir. Leaving * Four miles above W&mur on this stream is a mine from which a rich iron ore (korch) is obtained. At Bar Boeh&n also iron is found in large quantities. 043 ( 282 ) Panjah on the 26th of April (the day previous to which was the first wann day we bad since leaving Yangi-Hissar^ the thermometer in the shade going up to 74^ and in the sun to 99^ we made a short march of only six miles to Langarkish (9^350 feet)^ the highest inhabited spot on the road up to the lake. We passed on the left the villages of Zang and Hissar, between which is a hot spring^ (temperature 120^ enclosed in a stone building and said to possess valuable curative properties^ for the sake of which the old Mir occasionally visits the spot. I may note that hot springs are of frequent occurrence in these mountains ; some near Patur in the Sarhadd valley have a temperature of about 160^. These springs have a sensible influence on the temperature of the rivers they flow into, a fact which tends to neutralize any argument (such as that used by Wood) that the relative elevation of the sources of the two branches of the Oxus^ may be estimated from the temperature of the streams at their junction. Where the two Pimir streams meet opposite Zang, the united river was about 40 yards wide and one and a half feet deep, with a velocity of three and a half miles per hour. This measurement was taken at 11 a. m. at which period of the day the river had not attained its full size and velocity. In the hot weather at Panjah it cannot be forded^ but is crossed by rafts made of skins. Close by the village of Hissar (or Asshor) on a small isolated rocky hill, is the ancient fort (or kila or kalhai) of Zanguebar, which I examined in hopes of finding some relic of Zoroastrian worship. The ruined walls had, within memory, been used as dwelling-houses by the inhabitants of the neighbouring village, but 1 could discern no relics of antiquity, except fragments of a surrounding wall, and an arch formed by large slabs of stone resting, on either side, on solid rock. At Langar Eish, a very picturesque village, a fair sized stream from the north joined the main stream, passing through one of those characteristic fissures I have before alluded to. I tried to ascend it, but was very soon stopped by enormous boulders lying in the bed of the stream which flows between perpendicular rocky banks. From this vulage we had to take all our supplies for the return journey to Sarikol, and as collecting sufficient even for a rapid journey was found to be a matter of considerable difficulty, we had here reluctantly to give up all idea of halting on the road or making any detour for exploration. Our first march from Langar Eish was about 18 miles to Yumkhana (also called JangaUk). The road follows the right bank of the river rising above it in several places as much as 1,000 feet. From both sides occasional small mountain streams help to swell the waters of the main river. We passed on our right several ruined huts formerly occupied by Eirghiz, who many years ago abandoned this part of the country. The descendants of the men who accompanied Wood on this same journey, driven away by the insecurity of life and property, are now many of them quietly settled, hundreds of miles away, in the neighbourhood of Eilian and Sanju, under the rule of the Amir of Eashghar. Not a single Eirghiz, I was given to imderstand, remains even under the nominal sway of the Mir of Wakhan. As we advanced the valley opened somewhat, and the mountains on the south appeared to decrease in height, radiating from a pointed peak situated between the two branches of the Panjah River. After a time we came to the Ab-i-Zer-i-Zamin, a stream flowing from the north-west through banks 1,000 feet in height. We had to descend to the bed of the stream, cross and ascend the opposite side, and then traverse a plain, formed by a broad terrace at the foot of the range on our left, and situate about 1,000 feet above tiie bed of the Oxus. Four miles after passing the Zer-i-Zamin River we reached our camp, where some springs and rich soil had combined to produce a profusion of grass and fire-wood. From our tents we had a very fine view down the valley, seeing in particular one very prominent snowy peak, probably 20,000 feet in height, situated near the head of the glacier opposite Panjah. Next day we continued along the right bank of the river, passing, after five mUes, the Ab-i-Matz, along which * Cariously enough a cold spring with a temperature of 60° F. issues firom the ground within a few feet of the hot one. ( 283 ) is the sammer road to Shighnan ^ from the head of the Wakhan valley. This road crosses the Joshingaz^ a very high and lofty pass closed by snow throughout the winter and springs and proceeds down the Shakh Darah (valley) to Kila Bach^ the residence of the Hakim of the Shakh Darah District cf Shighnan. From Bach a road continues down the stream to Bar Fanjah. On our own road^ two miles beyond Ab-i-Matz^ is Boharak^ an occasional halting place of caravans^ stated by our guide to be the commencement of the Great Pamir. Here, the valley^ hitherto half a mile across, widens into a large flat open plain, one and a half miles in width, said to have abounded informer years with the magnificent Pamir sheep (Ovis Poli). Of these we saw nothing but bones and skulls. Severe murrain has within the last few years carried off not only nearly the whole of the wild sheep, but also the ibex. Six miles beyond Boharak was our camp at Yol Mazdr (road-side temple), two miles short of which is a large stream joining the river on its left bank, and of equal bulk with it. Near the camp a smaller stream entered on the right bank. I ascended this for some distance and found an open grassy valley in which there were some huts in ruins, and some obvious traces of former cultivation ; it was doubtless once the residence of Kirghiz. At our camp, which was at an elevation of about 12,000 feet above the sea, there was plenty of fire-wood and grass, this was the highest point in the valley at which good fire-wood was found, although further up and throughout this Pimir there was abundance of " boortsee^' and grass. Two inches of snow fell at night, but the morning, though cold, was fine. We were now fairly in the Great Pimir ; the grassy valley, about a mile broad, was bounded by terraces formed by low spurs coming down in gentle ^slopes fro^i the mountain ranges on both sides. On the 29th April we continued our march along the P^mir to Bilaor Bas. The road was excellent throughout, as in fact it was the whole way, from Panjah to Ak-t^sh, although at starting there are numerous steep ascents and descents. This day's march was along the right bank of the river, through a grassy plain, bounded on both sides by low undulating hills. The valley gradually widens, but the flat grassy portion is nowhere much more than a mile in width, the ascent was steady, and the road everywhere first-rate. Shortly before reaching camp we passed on our left the Ab-i-Khargoshi which flows from and through the Khargoshi plain, beyond which, at a day's journey from camp, is the Alichur Pamir, which nominally belongs to Wakhin, but practically to ShighnAn.f In it lies a small salt lake '/Tuz-kul^' from which no water flows, and beyond which the drainage goes to Shighn&n. Two days' march from this lake, i.e., three days from our camp, the Alichur stream is said to fall into the Murgh&bi. The Alichur P£mir is reported to be higher but smaller than the Great Pdmir, and to possess roads going in every direction. On the 30th we continued along the Great P^mir for 20 miles to M£zar Tupa, the plain getting grsCdually wider and wider as we advanced, until a breadth of six miles is attained. The vdley is not so well defined, as that of the Little Pimir, where steep mountains bordered the plain on both sides. Here low spurs from the mountain ranges north and south run into and are hardly to be distinguished from the plain. The mountains on the south are consider- ably higher than those on the north, the former rise to about 5,000 feet]: and the latter to about 2,500 feet above the river bed, giving absolute heights of 18,000 and 15,500 feet, respectively. The next day five miles of very gentle ascent brought us to the west end of Wood's Victoria Lake, which, like its sister in the Little P^mir, was supposed to have two outlets. Of that to the west there could be no doubt; through a channel some 12 paces wide, a little stream 6 inches deep, and with a velocity of 2^ miles an hour, emerged from under the ice with which the lake was covered, and flowed steadily westward. The temperature of the water was 88^, and * Vide Appendix. Section Boutes. t i'e^ according to ^e statement of the WakhiB who accompanied tib. X Elevations of hills were measured with an " Abney's clinometer," which I always used to carry in my pocket. Their positions were fixed by the intersections of compass bearings taken at different points on the line of march ; the heights of the latter were determined hypsometncally. ( 284 ) it was thus evident that the lake was partially supplied from warm springs. A few wild fowl were cong^gated near this end of the lake doubtless waiting for the rapidly approaching warm weather to melt the ice and enable them to proceed with their parental duties. The lake runs nearly due east and west^ is about ten miles long^ and nowhere more than two miles in breadth. The valley in which it lies ia, opposite the lake^ about four miles broad. The height of the hills to the north I estimated at 3^000 feet above the level of the lake^ while those on the south were at least 2000 feet higher. The only name by which the lake is well inown to natives is " Eul-i-P£mir Ealan/^ i.e., lake of the Great Pdmir. I have once or twice heard it called " Air^n Kul/' or buttermilk lake. To avoid confusion^ and to make as little possible change in existing nomenclature^ I purpose calling it "Kul-i-P^mir Kalan/' or "Victoria Lake/^ the last name being the one originally bestowed by its discoverer. Lieutenant Wood. Our camp^ which was about two miles east of its head was called by the " W^khis ^' Sar-i-kul (head of the lake), a camp in a corresponding position at the lower end being called " Bun-i-kul ^' (foot of the lake). This may account for the other name erroneously given to it by Lieutenant Wood (Sir-i-kol). After reaching camp, a distance of 16^ miles, I went to the head of the lake to investigate its drainage and determine its limits (for from a little distance ofE it was impossible to discriminate between the ice and snow on the lake, and the snow on shore). I was soon convinced that all the water from the hills at the east end drained into the lake, which therefore like its neighbour in the Little P&mir has but one outlet, although in the former case the water fldws west, and in the latter east. To the East of the lake the valley opens out, and forms a larg^ basin which extends ten or twelve miles from West to East, and six miles from North to South. At the lower portion of this basin, surrounding the head of the lake, is a great deal of marshy ground formed by the drainage which enters from numerous side vidleys,''^ coming from the hills on the South. At the time of our visit this marsh was covered with snow and ice ; but later on in the season, when the snow is melting on the surrounding hills, there is much water, and the place is said to become the favoured breeding place of thou- sands of geese. Our march from Sir-i-kul lay along the Northen side of the valley, the whole of which was deep in snow, and was so level that I experienced considerable difficulty in determining the correct position of the water-shed, which was crossed at a distance of twelve miles from the east end of the lake and at a height of 14,820 feet. A frozen stream here comes down from the North, divided into two portions by a low ridge of gravel, one flowing eastward into the Aksu River> the other westward into the lake. Eastward from the water-shed the Great P4mir vaUey contracts. We followed down a rivulet which, shortly before passing the camp at Sh^sh Tupa, joins a considerable stream coming down a broad valley from the North. The name of our camp was derived from the " Shish Tupa" or " six hills'' by which it is surrounded, and between each pair of which roads issue to different parts of the Pdmir steppes. Our road from Sh^sh Tupa lay for nearly eight miles due north on the right bank of the stream, and then continued down it for ten miles in a north-east direction to the camp '^ Dahn- i-Isligh.''t On our left we passed three broad open ravines, containing streams coming from the west ; one of them was nearly as large as the river we were following, and before joining * Up one of these yalleya is a road accross the hills to Langar in the Great Pamir. One good day's march takes the traveller over the Warram Kotal (Pass), another half day to Langar, and another half day to Sarhadd (horse marches). This is the road by which a Yer3r short time i^o Jehandar Shah, the Ex-Mir of Badakhshan, when attacked by the Cabal troops, fled, accompanied by several hundred followers, to Yassin. His shorter route from Panjah would doubtless have been up the Sarha/ld valley, but antici^ting that he would be intercepted on that line, he made the long detour above mentioned, passing through unmhabited country the whole way from Langar Ejsh, and striking the Little Pamir at a considerable distance above Sarhadd, instead of having to fight his way up to the latter place. t " Mouth of the Isligh." ( 285 ) it passed through a plain some six miles long and two broad. At Dahn-i-Isligh the river is joined by two more streams^ the Eizil Bobat coming from the south-east^ and the Karasu from the west^ both of which pass through broad grassy valleys. The ground is very open^ and may be traversed in almost every direction. Two or three miles north-east of our Camp the Great Pdmir terminates, having extended for a distance of some 90 miles from Boharak. From Dahn-i-Isligh I took a path which follows the Isligh stream, until it emerges into the Aksu plain ; tiiis road is somewhat circuitous, and the rest of the party took a shorter line, going over a low pass, and rejoined the main stream about 1 6 miles from our starting point. The path I followed is rarely, used by .travellers ; in summer it is quite impassable on account of floods. When I went down it (in April) the ice was breaking up, and travelling was somewhat dangerous, as the river had to be crossed many times. The hiUs on the north are very precipitous, and in places rise nearly perpendicularly to a height of some 2,000 feet above the river bed. Where the two paths unite, the valley opens, and down it a good road leads to the Aksu plain, which is crossed diagonally in a S.-E. direction. Prior to reaching our camp at Ak-t£sh we had much di£Bculty in crossing the Aksu River, which was much swollen by melting snow. On this march (37 miles in length) I had the good fortune to shoot an " Ovis Poli,*' the only one that has fallen to the rifles of our party. At Ak-t^h we rejoined the road we had followed on our outward journey, and returned by it, to Tashkurghdn and Y&rkand making the slight variations in our route, to which I have already alluded. / It appears from the foregoing narrative that although the name Pdmir has been inaccurately employed as a generic term covering the whole of the elevated mass lying between the Hindu Kush and the mountains of Khokandj yet it is rightly applied to some of the steppes which occupy a large portion of this region. These steppes would appear to be a series of broad trnduLeiting grassy valleys, formed on the surface of an elevated plain, by lofty *ridges running more or less parallel to the equator. The general slope of the plateau is from east to west. Its eastern portion is gently undulating, and comparatively flat, while its western edge merges into spurs, which slope down gradually to the west, and are separated by bold and precipitous defiles. On the east the P^mir steppes are bounded by a transverse ridge, which has been appropriately termed the P4mir range by Pundit Manphul. This ridge runs in a direction from , south-south-west to north-north-east and is the true watershed between Eastern and Western Turkestan ; at the Neza Tash Pass where we crossed it, the watershed is very clearly defined; the ridge was seen trending as far north as latitude 38^ 15' ; it appeared to sink gradually, and I was informed by Kirghiz that it eventually subsided to the level of the Kizil-art plains a little short of the Great Karakul (lake) m which vicinity a diCEerence of level of a few feet may probably determine the flow of water, either into the Sea of Aral in Western Turkestan, or into the semi-mythical lake of Lop, on the confines of China. To the east of the P£mir range there is an extensive plateau, which stretches from the Muztagh range of the Himalaya mountains up to the South Khokand range — the Trans-AIai of Fedchenko — ^in the parallel of 39^° Portions of it are designated in order from south to north as the Taghdumb^h Pdmir, the Sarikol or Tashkurghan valley, the Tagharma, and the Kizil-art plains. This plateau is in turn bounded on the east by the range to which Hayward gave the name of the Kizil-art, the name by which it is known to the inhabitants of Kashghar, and which runs nearly parallel to Pandit ManphuVs P^mir range. Fedchenko has questioned the existence of the Kizil-art range in the following words :—^^ Hay ward^s researches seem to point to a meridional range to the west of Kashgar, but he only saw these mountains in the distance, and covered entirely with, winter snow, which is very misleading as regards direction. Therefore his statement regarding a meridional Kizil-art range with steep easterly declivities appears to me very untrustworthy. When you have the ends of a chain &cing you they appear, when covered with snow and seen en face to form a consecutive chain running in a direction perpendicular to the line of sight of the beholder.'' But all the information I have obtained decidedly corroborates Hayward's views, which are also shared by Mr. Shaw. I have every reason to believe that the magnificent line of snowy peaks which is viewed from Kashghar, constitutes a meridional chain of mountains, instead of being composed ( 286 ) of the tail ends of a senes of longitudinal chains. It is broken through nearly at right angles by the Yamunyar river^ which brings down the drainage of the Little Karakul Lake and the contiguous portion of the Kizil-art plain^ just as the Kuen Lnen and many of the Himalayan ranges are broken through by rivers whose sources are in the upper table-lands. The positions of several peaks of the Kizil-art range were fixed by numerous bearings, taken from points along the road between Yllrkand and Kashghar, and the four most conspi- cuous ones, embracing a length of 52 miles were found to lie almost exactly in one straight line having a direction of about 30^ west of the true meridian. The most southerly and the highest of these, the Tagharma peak * o& Hayward I ascertained trigonometriodly to be £6,850 feet above sea level, while two others are at least 22,500 feet high. From the Tagharma peak southwards the range diminishes very much in height. On our return journey we crossed the Chichiklik mountains (which may be considered as a continu- ation of the same range) at the Kok-MainiLk Pass at an elevation of 15,670 feet; whilst further south the same mountains are pierced by the Tashkurghan river at a height of about 10,000 feet. Little is known of the range further south, but it would seem to be a connecting link with the Himalayan ranges so that the old Chinese geographers, who did indeed link together the " Bolor*^ and the " Karakorum'^ under the common name of " Tsung Ling*^ or *' Onion mountains'' were not far wrong in their ideas. I am inclined to agree with Mr. Fedchenko in considering the Pamir steppes, within the limits by which I have defined them, to be a portion of the Thien Sh^n. At all events they present a very similar physical formation, the main feature of which is the existence of ranges situated on a high table-land, and running more or less east and west. We have abeady seen that in the only portion of the Thien Sh^n system visited by us, i.e., to the north and north- east of Kashghar, the mountains consist entirely of parallel ranges having an easterlv and westerly direction, and that the elevated plain on which they are situated rises rapidly higher and higher as it advances northwards. It is not always easy to detect the parallelism of ti^ese ranges. On the expedition to Chadyr Kul, where we continuously ascended the bed of the Toyanda stream, I did not fully realize the fact, and it was only after our subsequent journey towards Ush Turf&n, where I bad an opportunity of penetrating and crossing^ no less than four of these ranges, that I was convinced that this southern portion was of the same physical configuration as other portions of the Thien Sh^n as portrayed on the Russian maps. Fed- chenko, proceeding apparently solely on the basis of this theory of the parallelism of ranges, has shown in his last map the country north-east of Kashghar f in much the same way as I have myself done, and he would doubtless have been much gratified, had he lived, to find his theories so soon verified. An examination of the map accompanying this report will show the ideas I have myself formed of the ground lying between the Great P^mir and the Alai plateau, which last has been visited by M. Fedchenko. The position and extent of the Great and Little Pamirs have been accurately laid down, and it is hoped that the mapping of the ground between them and the Alai will be found to be not very &r from correct; the geographical detail shown is the result of careful study. On the construction of the Preliminary map accompanying this report. The positions of all places in Eastern Turkestan, and Wakhan, that have been visited by members of the Mission, depend upon the. astronomically fixed position of the Yangi-shahr or new city of Kashghar, for full details of which the appendix. Sections A- and B., may be consulted. * The altitade and bearingB of this peak I measared with great care, with my theodolite, from both Yapcban and Kashghar, and I thus obtained two independent results of 25,864 feet and 25,828 feet t M. Fedchenko was neyer there, and, as far as I am aware, the Rnasians possess no siurey of the gronnd to the north-east of Kishghar. ( 287 ) 76^ 6' 4T The final positions in longitude of Y&rkand and other important places have been deter- mined as follows :— - Tha tarod longitade of EASHGHAB (YaDfln^ahr) is ... The difference of longitude between Kashghar and Yangi-Hissar as determined by Pandit Eishen Sing's ^icing, corrected from latitude observations, is — On outward journey ... ... ... -|- 0^ On retam joomey ... ... ... + 0° 6' 6' 15'' or mean 6' 8^ 6' ^ 7^ 12' 56" 1° 4' 0" 25" (f 7r 15' 56* Giving for longitude of Yangi-Hissar The dmerence of longitude between Tangi-Hissar and Yirkand, determined in the same manner — By outward journey is By return journey On the outward journey the survey was carried along the dhrect road, about 76 miles m length, and over a perfecUy level country, whereas on the return journey the road followed a circuitous Hne of 180 miles, over one snowy pass and ver^r rough ground. The first value is therefore accepted in preference, ffiz. Giving a final value for YABEAND (Yangi-Shahr) of which 18 0^ 8^ 5^ in defect of the astronomically determined value of the same place. I have determined to accept the value as deduced from Kashghar in preference to the independent results arrived at from observations to the moon. _ • Again, the final longitude of Tangi-Hissar (as above) is . . . 76° 12' 55^ The difference between Yang^-Hissar and Tashkurghan by Pandit's pacing corrected for latitude is . . . 53' 25'' \ The difference ascertained chronometrically by Captain > mean 53' 54* Trotteris ... ... ... ... 64' 23*j Giving a final value for TASHKURGHAN of ... 76° 19' V which is 4' 69^'^ in defect of the value obtained from one nighf s observations to the moon at the same place. The longitude of Kila Panjah (Wakhan) was determined chronometrically— 1^ On outward journey, from Tashkurghan 2. On return journey, firom Ighiz-yar (near to and con- nected with Yangi-Hissar by a traverse survey)... Giving a final longitude for KTTjA PANJAH of. . . Whilst the observations for absolute longitude at the same place give a result of and a fomih entirely independent result obtained bj Captain Trotter's route survey, oorrected for latitude is The mean result obtained chronometrically is adopted for the final position. 72° 44' 18^ 72° 72° 46' 45' 4fr 72° 45' 30° 72° 44' l(f The wonder- fully accordant results at Kila Panjah^ although highly satis&ctorv^ must perhaps to a certain extent be regarded as fortuitous^ but the admirable rates obtainea for the watch employed in the chronometric determinations, a silver lever watch by Brock of London specially made for explorations, are worth recording* and ought to give results in the accuracy of which great confidence may be placed. • Travelling rates obtained bv Captain Trotter for Brocket lever watch. No. 1602, during journey from Yangi'Mieewr to Kila Panjah, and return jou/mey to Yarkand, StAGB. PfttflS. No. of dAJB from which rate WM detflimlBfld. Bate per diem gain- inirin Beconds of time. BnCABKS. Tangi-Qissar to Ak- tala. Ak-tala to Tashkur- ghan. }8th to 2^ March 22nd to 3l8t March 4 9 + 6. 0 + 6. 1 (1) Bate obtained by comparing difference of obsenred tunes with difference of longitude as derived from Pandit's pacing, corrected for latitude. (2) Ditto Ditto. ( 288 ) I am much gratified to be able to state that after all my computations were completed and the details of routes transferred for the first time on to a correct graticule, my position of the west end of Victoria Lake (the extreme east point visited by Wood in his travels) was latitude 37° 27' north and longitude* 78° 40' 38'', which is practically identical with the independent determination of the same point by Lieutenant Wood which is given at page 282, new edition of Wood's Oxus, with essay by Colonel Yule, London, 1872. I will now indicate how the positions of points on the road between Leh (Ladakh) and Yar- kand have been determined. The position of Ak-tagh (2nd camp) was fixedby myself in lat. 36° 0' 11^ and long. 78° 6' 20*', It was the converging point of three different route surveys (by Pandits) starting from fixed points on the south, and is in the neighbourhood of a hill above Chibra whose position was satisfactorily fixed by intersection (on the plane-table) of several rays from trigonometrically fixed peaks of the Earakorum. The position of Ak-tagh in long- itude with regard to these peaks may be looked on as correct within a mile, and its position in latitude is undoubtedly correct within a few hundred feet. From this point three traverse lines have been carried by different Surveyors to Karghalik, which, when corrected and adjusted on the proper parallel (37° 53' 15^''), had a maximum diver- gence of 3| miles, the mean of the three values gives aposition in (true)t longitude of 77° 25' 30.^ Between Karghalik and Yarkand I had also two independent traverses, i.e.j on both outward and return journey, which differed from each other in the resulting longitude of Karghalik by less than a mile. The mean of these two when referred to the value of Yarkand as determined from K&shghar places Karghalik in longitude 77° 28' 30.'^ A mean between Travelling rates obtained by Captain Trotter for Brock* e lever watchy ^e,, ^e, — (Concluded). SXAOS. DATlfl. No. of dftys Arom which rate wu determined. Bate per diem gain- ing in seconds of time. BXILLBKS. Yangl-Hissar to Wa- khan and back to Ighiz-yar. Eogachak to Ak-tash. . . Kashgbar to Ighiz-yar 18th March to 18th May. 3rd April to 6th May 16th to 18th May... 61 32 3 + 6. 1 + 5. 7 + 6. 6 During these 61 days almost an entire circuit was made. The difference of longitude between Yangi Hissar and Ighiz-yar, viz^ V iJS" only, was determined by Pandit's pacing. Dunns these 31 days a smaller circuit was made; the difference of longtitude between Kogachak and Ak-tash is 1' 36''. In both these circuits allowance has been made for the station- air rate (+ 7^8) • obtained during our halt in Wakhan. Rate obtained in same manner as (1) & (2). It should be noted that my watches and chronometers were always carried in a small box that I had speciallj made for them, carefully packed in cotton wool, and inserted in the middle of a laive leather mule trunk, packed with clothes. They were thus kept at a tolerably uniform temperature and escaped in great measure the jerlcs and shakes they would otherwise have been exposed to. Of my pocket chronometers^ having a regular chronometric escapement, one by Peter Birchall, London, No. 1096, was well suited for astronomical observations, keeping excel- lent time when stationary and beating half seconds very audibly. It was always used by me in my astronomical observations, but it required very careful handling, as a violent jerk was apt to make it gain several seconds suddenly. A third watch, a pocket chronometer, by Dent, unfortunately got out of order before the Pamir trip, but I had found that while travelling, neither its rate nor that of BirchaU compared favorably wit^ that obtained from. Brock's ^atch. It is perhaps needless to add that my watches were daily carefully compared together, and also both before and after observations of stars. An omission to do this on a sinele occasion prevented my getting a chronometric value for the differences of longitude between Yangi-Hissar and Kashghar. * The position in longitude in the " Preliminary map" differs slightly from this, as the latter had to be prepared prior to the completion of the computations. t True, ».e., depending on the most recent determination of the longitude of Madras. All the Indian Survey maps are based on tlie astronomically determined position of the Madras Observatory. Recent observations have shown that the old value, that is the one adopted by the Survey Department^ is about 3 miles too much to the east In my map I have been compelled to make allowance for this, and have shifted three miles to the west, the whole of the positions in Noithem India taken fix>m the existing maps. ( 289 ) this and the value previonsly deduced from the south gives 77^ iT 0'^ which has been assigned as its final position. The smallness of the amount of the adjustment necessary to connect my own work, depending on my own astronomical observations at K^hghar^ and that depending on the Indian Survey derived from the astronomically fixed position of Madras is a gratifying proof of the general accuracy of the work. This sketch would be incomplete without a few lines as to my connection on the north with the Russian Survey^ which appears^ I think^ equally satisfactory with the above. The only position in the Amir of Kashghar's dominions in Eastern Turkestan astronomically fixed by the Russians is that of E^shghar. This was done in 187^^ the year prior to our own visits by Colonel Schamhorst of the Mission under General Baron Yon Kaulbars. A comparison of results is given : — Position of Yangi-Shahr (K&shghar) determined by English Mission^ 1873 — Latitude ... ... 89^ 24' 26" North. Longitude ... ... 76° 6' 47"' East of Greenwich. Position of Yangi-Shahr (E^shghar) determined by Russian Mission^ 1872 — Latitude ... ... 39° 24' 1 6'' North. Longitude ... ... 76° 4' 42" East of Greenwich. As the quarters occupied by the British Mission^ where the observations were made^ lies outside and to the east of the fort, while those occupied by the Russians were in about the same latitude and nearly one mile to the west of the fort, the difference in longitude is reduced to about one mile, our latitudes being practically identical. I would have wished to take the mean between the two as the final position of E^shghar, but as our stay there was of much longer duration than that of the Russians, and I had opportunities of taking many more observations than they did, I prefer leaving my own values intact.* The slight discrepancy now noticed disappears on the road between E^shghar and Chadyr Eul, the only line of survey common both to the Russians and ourselves, and along which I carried a rough traverse survey in which the distances were estimated by the time occupied on the line of march. Prior to my departure from India Colonel Stubendorff, of the Russian War Ofiice, had sent to Colonel Walker, the Superintendent of the Great Trigonometrical Survey, the positions of a number of points in Russian and in Ehokandian territory that had been astronomically determined by Russian ofBcers. Amongst them was the north-east comer of Lake Chadyr Eul. Bearing this in mind, when at the most northerly point on the road reached by us, I took a bearing tangential to the east end of the lake, which lay nearly due north at a distance of about three miles from us. On my return to India when I plotted in my work from my own astronomical position of E^sh^har, I found that by adopting the Russian value of the east end of the lake, viz,^ latitude 40 43' north, our positons in longitudef of the same point exactly coincided. In determining the position of Ehotan I have made use of Pandit Eishen Sing's route from Earghalik to Ehotan, and thence via Eeria back to Ladakh. As a result of this route survey our previously accepted value of the longitude of Ehotan has been altered by more than thirty miles. It may appear bold to make this extensive change in the position of a place that has been visited by a European explorer (Mr. Johnson), but the route survey executed by this Pandit is so consistent, and the plotted results agree so closely with the observed latitudes throughout the whole of his work, that I have no hesitation in accepting it as correct. I may further add that I have been in communication with Mr. Johnson on the subject, and that he freely admits the possibility of a large error in his longitude of Ehotan. * Since the above was written Colonel Walker baa heard from Colonel Stubendorff that the Russian astronomical observations at Kasbghar which were taken hj Colonel Schamhorst were referred to the most northern angle of the Yangi-Shahr, a position almost identical in latitude with my own, and differing by two-fii^s of a mile only in longitude. Colonel Stubendorff mentions that the Russian observations depend on the eclipse of tJie sun on the 6th June 1872, and that corrections for error in the lunar tables have not been applied, l^is last remark applies to my own observations also. — H. T. t 75° 24' East of Greenwich. a45 ( 290 ) He states that in commencing his reconnaissance from the Euen Lnen Mountains (which he carried on with the plane-table only)^ one of the three trigonometrically fixed points on which his work was based^ turned out subsequently to have been incorrectly projected on his board. This^ together nn^ith the doubt that must always exist when rapidly passing through an unknown country as to the identity of the difEerent peaks visible from the line of march^ is quite sufficient to account for the discrepancy. In my preliminary map I have assigned to Khotan a longitude of 79^ 59' instead of 79^ 26/ the position it has recently occupied on our maps. About its latitude there can be no doubt. Mr. Johnson took several observations there with a 14-inch theodolite and obtained a mean result of 37^ V 36^^ whilst from Kisfaen Sing's observations with a sextant extending over nearly a month we have a mean result of 37^ T 36^. The points east of Khotan^ ue,y Eeria and the Sorghak gold fields^ are derived from Eishen Sing's route survey, combined with his latitude observations. We also have from the same source a complete survey for the first time of the road vid Polu to Noh, and thence to Leh. As a specimen of the accuracy of this Pundif s work I may mention that when the road from Earghalik to Pal^ a distance of 630 miles, was plotted out on the scale of 2,000 paces to the mile, without any correction or adjustment whatever (although 4^^ were added to each magnetic bearing in order to allow for magnetic variation) starting from my own value of Earghalik, the plot closed at Pal (fixed by the Great Trigonometrical Survev) almost absolutely correct in latitude and only eight minutes out in longitude, and in no single portion of the whole route, which passes over elevations exceeding 17,000 feet in height, did the plotted value differ by as much as three miles from his own observed astronomical latitude {vide Appendix Section A.) . Of this discre- paney of eight minutes in longitude it is possible that a portion may be due to error of position in the starting point (Earghalik), but it may be noted that the amount is no more than would be accounted for by an error of 1^^ in the assumed value of magnetic variation. It is not to be supposed that such accuracy is generally attainable, but in the present case, although the surveyor laboured under certain disadvantages from the absence of inhabitants, yet there were the compensating advantages that he was under no necessity for concealment ; he was there- fore able to take and record bearings when and where he pleased. As regards the work executed to the north-east and east of Eishghar; the position of Maralbashi, on the road to Aksu, was fixed in latitude by Captain Biddulph {^ide Appendix Section A.), and its position in longitude is roughly determined by a few bearings, and esti- mated distances taken by him on the road from E^.8hghar. On the road to Ush Turfan I carried on a rough route survey wherever I went, and took observations for latitude and obtained chronometric determinations of longitude as &r as Ui BuUk, in latitude 40° 26' north and longitude 77® 36' east. Thence by route survey I got a deter- mination of the position of the Belowti Pass ; calculating from this the probable position of Ush Turfan I place it about three-quarters of a degree to the east of the position given it in the last edition of Colonel Walker's Turkestan map. On examining the latest Russian map (1873) it appears that the position of Ush Turfan has been recently altered, and placed very near where I would myself locate it. I have therefore in my map adopted the last Russian values of Ush Turfan, Aksu, and all places to the east. It wOl be found that the cities of Aksu and Euldja are more than twenty miles to the east of the places assigned them in all but the most recent maps. The details inserted to the north of the map are taken almost exclusively from the Russian topographical map of Central Asia (corrected to 1873). The portion of ground to the south of Ehokand, visited by Mr. Fedchenko, is derived from various maps purporting to be by that distinguished traveller, amongst others^ one recently sent by Madame Fedchenko to Colonel Walker, differing materially from all others that I have seen. For the country between the Alai, visited by Mr. Fedchenko on the north, and the scene of our own explorations in the Pamirs on the south, the map is compiled from all the limited sources available^ which have * Inclading the route survey carried on by Abdul Subhan from Paigab to Eila Wamur, the chief town of Eoeh&n, and also including a sketch map prepared by Colonel Gordon and Captain Biddulph representing their joint ideas of the geography of the Pamfr. ( 291 ) been bound together to the best of mj ability, I am by no means yet satisfied with the result, and one of my first labours, when I have finished this report, will be the preparation of a map on a larger scale of the Pdmir regions, when I doubt not that further considerations will induce some changes in the map as it at present stands. Most of the details to the south of the map, with the exception of those portions north of Leh that hare been traversed by members of the Mission, have been taken from the last edition of Colonel Walker^s Map of Turkestan, but all the positions in the latter have been shifted three minutes to the west in longitude in order to allow for the most recently determined value of the longitude of Madras, viz,^ 80° 14' 19.6'' East of Greenwich. In the portion of country traversed by Members and Attaches of the Mission use has been made of all the material collected by them. The maps of Messrs. Shaw and Hayward have also been called into requisition. The reductions of the astronomical observations, and the computations of heights, have all been made in the OflSce of Colonel Walker, R.E., the Superintendent of the Great 'trigonometri- cal Survey, in whose Office also, the map compiled by myself has been drawn and photozin- cog^phed. A large amount of work has been got through in a moderate space of time, and I am deeply indebted to Colonel Walker for the facilities he has given, and to Messrs. Hen- nessey, Keelan, and Wood in the Computing Office, and Messrs. Atkinson and Sindon in the Drawing Office for the assistance afforded by them in their several departments. Meteorological Observations. Whilst on the march I always took readings of thermometers, and barometer or boiling point thermometer, at our camps, and on high passes, and at other places of interest. These were taken chiefly for the purpose of determining the height above sea level of the stations of observation and where used for this object are shown in Appendix C. Where they are not required for this I have not published them, as isolated observations at different places, taken under constantly varying conditions, are not of much use to the meteorologist. While I was at Leh Mr. R. B. Shaw, the British Joint Commissioner, commenced a regular meteorological registry, which has since been continued under the superintendence of Captain Molloy, the recorder being the Native Doctor attached to the dispensary there. At my special request Mr. Shaw kindly took extra barometrical observations at the hours of 9 a.m. and noon, whilst I was on the journey to, and during my residence and travels in. Eastern Turkestan, these being considered the most likely hours at which I should myself be able to take barometrical observations for height on passes and in camp. I have thus throughout the whole of my absence from Leh got almost simultaneous readings at the fixed Observatory of Leh, whose height has been accurately determined by the Great Trigonometrical Survey. This circumstance combined with the use by myself of mercurial barometers, enable me to compute the height of the various passes and halting-places with an amount of accuracy superior to anything yet attainable. It is hardly necessary to add that I have made at Leh, both on the outward and return journeys, numerous comparisons between my own instruments and those in use at the Leh Observatory, and that my own were previously compared with the standards at Dehra Dun (and some of them at Kew). While on the march to Y^rkand I succeeded in taking numerous sets of observations with a Hodgkinson's actinometer. I took these at the special request of Mr. J. B. N. Hennessey of the Great Trigonometrical Survey, who supplied me with an instrument belonging to the Royal Society. They were chiefly taken at considerable altitudes, but owing to cloudy weather the Chang La (Pass), 17,600 feet above sea level, was the only very high point at which I was able to take sets extending over a period of several hours in the middle of the day. These actinometric observations have been handed over to Mr. Hennessey (now in England) for reduction, and they ought to give very interesting results, which will probably be communicated to the Royal Society. ( 292 ) At Leh in Lam observations taken throughout the 24 hours. t The instrument employed was a mercurial barometer by Casella. X These diagrams have been drawn by Mr. Keelan of the Great Trigonometrical Survey, who has also rendered me great assistance in the preparation of the Appendices of this report. • - < ^•5?? 1 I ''I ^1 ■^i ^1 ^ ^1 ' ; ^**««l»>V» ( 293 ) Magnetic Obaervatians. As has been mentioned in a previons portion of this report it was decided not to take £rom India a complete set of magnetic instruments. I took willi me however a dip circle by Barrow with which observations for inclination were taken at Leh (in Ladakh)^ Ch£gra (in Ladakh)^ Y^rkand^ E Jshghar^ and Tashknrgh^n (in the Sarikol District) • It has been laid down as an axiom by General Sabine^ the great authority on matters of magnetism, that " the value of each new magnetic station is directly proportional to its distance from those where obser- vations have already been made/^ and I may therefore hope that the record of results^ vide Appendix^ Section £.^ may prove of considerable value^ as I am not aware that any magnetic observations have ever been taken within a very considerable distance of any of the three last named stations. The rules laid down by General Sabine were rigorously adhered to in taking the observatioDs. Observations for magnetic variation (declination) were taken at^ and have been computed out for sixteen stations in^ Ladakh^ Turkestan, and Wakhan. The station furthest to the noHh-east was at Ui Bulak (latitude 40"" 26' and longitude 77° 86') where the variation was 5° 40' east ; the extreme western station was at Kila Panjah (latitude 87^ longitude 72° 45') where the variation was 4° 17' east. Details of the results, which are very consistent inter ee, are given in the Appendix. The instrument employed in the determination of declination was the six-inch transit theodolite, which has been described in the Appendix, Section B. It was fitted with a first-rate magnetic needle. Comparisons taken at Leh ••• Capt. Trotter... Sextant No. II II Theodoiite 44 44 44 44 a Piscis Australia (Fofnal- haut) a AquilsB (Altair) a Piscis Australis (F(Mnai- haut) Sun (Cr.Z.) II II ••• Chagra 8 20th Sept. 1873 11 II 2l8t „ Kalian Sing ... Kishen Sing ... II Sextant No II II 4J, 44 44 a Piscis Anstralis (Fomal- haut) a XJrs» Minoris (Polaris) a 'Aquils (Altair) « Qogra Camp • 12 24th Sept. 1873 25th „ 23rd „ 24th ,, II II Kalian Sing ... II ••• Kishen Sing... II II ••• II • II II II II 8 8 44 44 44 a AquilflB (Altair) a Piscis Australia (FbmaU haut) a Aquile (Altair) a Piscis Australia ( Fomal- haut) a UrsflB Minoris (Polaris) "Bhao (Shumal- lang) Camp. 18 26th Sept. 1873 27th „ Kishen Sing ... II II II 44 44 a Aquilse (Altair) /J Ononis (Eiffel) ing-zi-tha Changlong Nischu Camp. 15 27th Sept. 1873 II II Kishen Sing... II 11 II 44 44 a AquiliB (Altair) a UrssB Minoris (Polaris) 1 Ling-zi-t'hang plain, camp on. 16 28th Sept. 187a II II 29th „ Kishen Sing ... II II ••• II II II 44 44 44 « AquiliB (Altair) a Urs» Minoris (Polaris) /3 Ononis (Bifel) p4 Sumna Camp (E. ^ of Kizil jilga). 18 80th Sept. 187S II II t Kishen Sing... II ••• II II 44 44 a Aquil» (Altair) a UrsiB Minoris (Polaris) ( 297 ) to TAMKAND vi& Chang-Chenmo and Shdhidulla. Double altitudes or zenith distances corrected for index and level errors. Z. D. 30 47 40 D. A. 61 27 20 129 5 10 51 27 0 114 38 20 Z. D. 32 17 12 n n n D. A. 51 17 20 91 99 70 65 50 128 66 40 D.A. 128 24 10 50 47 10 99 99 99 99 128 23 0 60 41 40 71 27 30 D.A. 128 7 0 94 21 10 99 D.A. 127 56 53 71 56 83 19 D.A. 127 72 93 99 99 29 33 23 13 47 23 D.A. 126 32 43 73 19 43 99 ELEMB19TS U8£D IN COM- PUTATIOir OF BBFBAGTION. Baro- meter. iiidU*. 16'8 Ther. Faht. 18-2 18-2 18-2 182 180 17-6 176 17*6 170 170 170 170 170 163 163 99 99 99 4A DSDUCKD LaIITUDIS. 51 61 51 61 61 33 33 33 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 99 99 99 of zenith. By sHurs north By sun or stars south of zenith f 1 34 6 6 34 21 1 34 35 32 34 48 61 36 17 9 34 4 49 Final latitudes north. 34 0 1 33 59 66 34 0 12 34 0 23 33 59 67 34 6 4 34 4 40 34 20 24 34 20 4 34 21 1 34 22 49 34 28 69 34 29 13 34 34 33 34 47 46 34 46 10 36 16 9 o in 34 4 49 34 0 6 34 4 69 34 21 4 34 29 6 34 36 3 34 47 64 35 16 39 RSMABKS. In obseryations with the sex- tant the stars have been invariably taken on the meridian. In observations with the theodolite the stars have been taken on the meridian except where an asterisk has been affixed to the name of the star (in column 6). Where this occurs the numbers in the column of Remarks are the computed means of the true local times of observa- tion used in the computa- tion for latitude. The numbers in brackets in> columns 7, 10, and 11, denote the number of pairs (face left and face right) of observations taken. The corresponding figures in column 7 give the corrected mean zenith distanoe. The theodolite employed is described in the Geographi- cal Appendix, Section JB. ( 298 ) Abstrtict of Observations for Latitude on road from It EH. Flags of Obsbrtation. S Z B a a S § OS Astronomical date. Obseryer. Instrument observed with. a Object observed. o "Kotajilga Camp... 19 26th Sept. 1873 Capt, Trotter... 99 ••• Theodolite ... 99 a Ur8»Minori8(Po2am)* 99 99 99 S5 > SamzumlungPa .. 22 28th Sept. 1873 29th Capt. Trotter... 99 ••• 99 ••• 99 •* Theodolite ... 99 «y ... 99 ••• a UrsiB Minoris {Polarii)^ 99 99 99 y AquiliB a Aqail® (Altair) ^ ^Dunglung or Shinglttng. 26 3rd Oct. 1873 Capt. Trotter... 99 99 ••• Theodolite ... 99 ••• 99 a Piscis Australia ( FanuU- haut) a Pegasi {Markab) y Cephei Eizil-jilga on bank of K4r4ki8h Biyer. 27 6th Oct. 1878 l8t 2nd 6th • f » Kalian Sing ... 99 Eishen Sing... 99 99 99 ••• Sextant No. 44 8 99 44 99 44 9. 44 /J Ceti a Urss Minoris (Polaris) a Aquil« (Altair) a Orionis fi Ceti a Ur. Min. {Poland) ... Chiing Tash 28 8th Oct. 1873 Capt. Trotter... Theodolite ... Sun U. L. JA fDaktod Earpo Sumdo. 80 9th Oct. 1873 10th Eishen Sing ... 99 ••• 99 ••• Sextant No. 44 A.A. 99 *■ ,9 44 a AquiUe {AUair) a Orionis a Canis Majoris {Siriwi) 1 Dnngnagu Camp 82 12th Oct. 1873 99 99 Eishen Sing... 99 ••• 99 ••• Sextant No. 44 99 44 99 44 /3 Orionis {BigO) a Orionis a Gams Majoris (iKrNif)... 1 1^ Sor& Camp 1 88 13th Oct. 1873 99 99 14th Eishen Sing... 99 ••• W Sextant No. 44 „ 44 ,9 44 /3 Ceti a UrsiB Minoris (Polaris) a Canis Majoris (jSi^THif)... J ( 299 ) to YAMKAND viA Chang-Chenmo and Shdhid4lla.'-'(oontixmM.) Elemektb Double altitudes or zenith distances corrected for index and level ITSBD m OOM- PUTATIOlf OF BS7BAGTI0N. DEDrcEB Latititdbs. BnCABKS. errors. Baro- meter. Ther. Faht. By stars north of zenith. By sun or stars south of zenith. Final latitudes north. o r ft Z. D. 54 24 10) „ 64 28 240) 180 18-0 16 16 o ; tt 84 29 220) 84 29 270) o / n O f II 84 29 26 H. M. S. Mean time =10 26 37 10 81 14 Z.D. 54 19 160) 54 18 280) 24 22 89 26 8 88 16-9 16-9 169 16-9 9 9 10 10 84 40 890) 84 40 460) 34 41 23 84 41 8 84 40 69 9 40 42 9 52 67 Z. D. 65 26 25 160 -3 86 10 13 20 88 5 41 45 80 160 160 —8 —6 35 9 88 86 9 63 85 9 61 D.A. 71 59 0 78 27 80 „ 126 26 8 „ 124 6 58 71 59 88 78 28 a 166 166 166 16-6 16.6 16-6 18 18 18 18 18 18 85 21 4 86 21 21 86 20 33 36 19 68 36 19 66 36 20 16 1 36 20 42 Z. D. 41 16 87 170 84 36 86 66 36 86 66 D.A. 125 88 88 „ 128 16 18 76 25 18 • . • ... • • . ... ... « 86 46 46 86 46 47 36 46 62 85 46 48 D.A. 91 87 8 „ 123 8 28 76 13 48 ••• • • . ■ •• • •• 86 61 22 36 61 43 86 61 37 86 61 84 D. A. 70 89 88 74 49 28 74 56 88 • ••• • •• ••• • • • • ■ • • •• 86 2 0 86 0 22 86 0 12 36 1 9 a4tS ( 300 ) Abstract of Observations for Latitude oh road from LES Place o? Obssbyatiok. e o B o 02 Astronomical date. ^"S f Jang Chidmo Camp §Y p43 ^Qulb&shem 35 fShorjilga E&ritdgh Pass .. -I < O Potash Pass (near Traverse Station No. 44.) Aktdgh (1st camp) Chibra Camp Sug6t Camp .Sug^t Pass ShdhiduUa Camp 16th Oct. 1878 Observer. Instrument observed with. Object observed. Eishen Sing ... 88 16th 17th Oct. 1878 99 )9 9» n 18th 17th 89 41 41A 43 43A 47 46 48 9f 10th Oct. 1878 11th Oct. 1878 19th Oct. 1878 13th Oct. 1878 Kishen Sing ... )9 ♦t 14th » 16th Oct. 1878 99 99 17th Oct. 1878 ft » 16th Oct. 1878 22nd Oct. 1878 >9 21st Capt. Trotter... Capt. Trotter... Capt. Trotter... Capt. Trotter... Nain Sing ... Capt. Chapman Kalian Sing ... Sextant No. 44 44 44 44 44 99 99 99 Sextant No. 44 „ 44 44 Theodolite Theodolite .., Theodolite ••• » Kalian Sing ... 99 Capt. Trotter... Kalian Sing ... >» ... Nain Sing ... i> Theodolite ... Sextant No. 7,., Theodolite ... Sextant No. 8... Sextant No. 8... Theodolite ... Sextant No. 8... 7... 7... 99 P Ceti a XJrsse Minoris (Polaris) 3 Ononis (Si^el) a Ononis a Canis Majoris (Sirius) /S Ceti a TJrsffi Minoris (Polarii) a Canis Majoris (Sirius) ... a XJrssB Minoris (^FolarU)* a Ursa Minoris (FolarU) Sun (17: X.) Sun (U. Z.) a Ursse Minoris (Polam) Sun (IT: Z.) /3 Ceti a UrssB Minoris (Po/^m)... fi Ceti a XJrs» Minoris (Polaris) Sun (Z/. Z.) /J Ceti a Ursa Minoris (Polaris) »> ^ » If ••• a Canis Minoris (Proqfon) ( 301 ) to YABKAND vift Chang-Chenmo and SMhidMUt. — (oontinued.) Elembittb • Double altitudes or zenitb distances corrected for index and level USBD Iir COM- PUTATION OF BEPBACTIOK. Dbdxfceb Latitudes. Remabks. errors. Baro- Ther. By stars north By sun or stars Final latitudes meter. Faht. of zenith. south of senith. north. o 1 n I%C%$9, D0fft§0$» O t II 0 1 V 0 1 * D.A. 70 19 48 86 10 19 „ 76 8 83 86 11 86 „ 90 69 8 86 10 14 , 122 26 8 86 10 24 • „ 74 86 43 86 10 9 86 10 82 D.A. 70 6 18 19*4 26 86 17 5 „ 76 22 18 194 26 86 18 26 74 28 8 19-4 18 86 17 1 R. M. S. Z.D. 62 42 ISO 190 26 86 17 19W 86 17 28 Mean time = 8 36 36 Z,D. 68 47 66W 16-6 6 86 41 2 86 41 2W Mean time = 7 27 27 Z. D. 42 80 68 16-7 80 86 42 64 86 42 64 Z.D. 45 68 4 17-4 40 85 56 31 86 66 81 D.A. 74 48 20 17-2 12 85 69 0 Z.D. 48 54 87 16-6 25 85 59 6 85 69 8 D.A. 70 26 30 15'6 26 86 6 46 • 76 0 20 16-6 25 86 7 88 86 7 12 D.A. 70 8 40 18-9 25 86 18 20 75 23 40 189 26 86 19 10 86 18 45 Z.D. 45 22 5 15-7 80 86 9 68 86 9 63 D.A. 69 52 30 195 80 86 28 66 ■ „ 75 36 20 19-6 80 86 26 2 D.A. 76 37 20 196 80 36 26 4 „ 118 17 10 19-6 80 86 24 48 86 24 57 ( 302 ) Abstract of Observations for Latitude on road from LEH Place of Obsibtatioit. e 8 d s a OS Astronomical date. Observer. Instrument observed with. Object observed. Kar&korum Camp Giazgia Camp Tarn Langar Khewaz Langar Sanjd Bazar Khushtagh Village Oi Toghrak Village Boira Village Kargbalik Bazar ••« 48A 48B 51 25th Oct. 1878 n >} 29th Oct. 1878 dOth 24th » n 26th Oct. 1873 n n n 51A 52 52A 26th Oct. 1878 1st Nov. 1878 28th Oct. 1873 29th 30th 99 n Kalian Sing ... Sextant No. 8 n Eishen Sing ... Nain Sing 99 Capt. Trotter Nain Sing ... 99 2nd Nov. 1878 99 99 99 99 68 54 65 8rd Not. 1878 8rd Not. 1873 4th 99 99 6th Nov. 1878 26th May 1874 6th Nov. 1873 99 99 29th Mar. 1874 30th 9» 9> Nain Sing ... Capt. Trotter Nain Sing ., 99 99 •' Capt. Trotter Nain Sing 99 Capt. Trotter Capt. Trotter Nain Sing 99 Sextant No. 44 44 7 7 99 99 99 Theodolite .. Sextant No. 7 7 99 Sextant No. 7 Theodolite .. Sextant No. 7 99 Capt. Trotter Nain Sing .. 99 99 f» 9> 91 99 99 7 7 Theodolite .. Sextant No* 7 7 /J Ceti a UrssB Minoris {Polaris) a Ursa Minoris (Polarig) a Canis Minoris (Pracyon) a Canis Majoris (Siriui) a Canis Minoris (iVocyon) a Ursffi Minoris (Polaris)^ a Cams Minoris (Proeyon) a Canis Minoris (Proton) a TJr883 Minoris (Polaru)^ 99 99 99 99 Theodolite ... Theodolite .. Sextant No. 7 « 7 Theodolite .. Seztant'No. 7 7 7 7 7 7 99 99 99 99 99 a Canis Majoris (Siriui) a Ursa Minoris (Polaris) a UrssB Minoris (Po&irif)* 99 99 n a Canis Minoris (Procyon) a TJrss Minoris (PoJom)* a TJr8» Minoris (Polaris)* P Ceti a TJrse Minoris (Polaris) a TJrse Minoris (Polaris)* a LibrsB a Ursae Minoris (Polaris) $ Ononis (Biffet) a Orionis Sun (U. L.) Jupiter Sun (U, L.) ( 303 ) to YARKAND rid. Chang-Chenmo and Shdhid4la. — (continued.) Elemekts Double altitudes or . distances correctec index andleve zenith Ifor I USED T17 COM- PUTATIOir OF BEFRACTIOir. Debxtgeb Latititdbs. RSMABKS. errors. Baro- meter. Ther. Faht. By stars north of zenith, i By sun or stars Final latitudes south of zenith . north . o r ff Inehet. Vegrtei. O 1 t O / f o ; v D. A. 69 26 „ 76 1 30 20 204 20-4 26 25 36 38 0 36 36 69 36 37 30 D. A. 76 12 „ 117 86 „ 78 25 „ 117 86 43 33 60 0 20-2 202 199 19-9 32 32 30 30 36 43 46 36 45 7 36 46 37 36 45 24 86 44 69 Z. D. 61 52 D. A. 76 30 „ 117 28 38(2) 20 10 219 211 211 32 30 80 36 52 6(2) 36 62 29 '^ 36 51 51 36 62 4 M. M. S. Mean time = 9 19 12 ft D. A. 117 1 20 22-5 37 37 2 47 87 2 47 Z. D. 51 80 D. A. 77 8 72 88 ,, 77 7 22W 0 60 30 24*3 246 246 245 19 25 25 25 37 11 4(3) 37 11 12 37 10 58 * 37 11 62 87 11 17 Mean time = 9 15 67 Z. D. 61 15 D. A. 77 28 „ 116 26 34(3) 30 60 24-7 23-4 23-4 21 33 33 37 21 40(3) 37 21 34 37 20 33 87 21 6 Mean time == 10 22 46 Z. D. 61 12 15(3) 24-8 16 37 30 20(3) 87 80 20 Mean time =: 8 58 7 Z. D. 61 2 D. A. 67 26 „ 78 0 23(3) 50 10 25-2 24-4 244 21 33 33 37 36 65(3) 37 37 22 37 37 29 87 87 19 Mean time = 11 8 11 Z. D. 60 47 „ 68 23 D.A. 78 32 „ 78 85 „ 119 1 „ 111 26 „ 110 49 „ 112 13 19(8) 35 0 80 0 50 20 50 261 23-6 26-3 25-3 26-3 24-9 24-9 24-9 22 70 54 54 64 40 40 40 37 53 9(3) 37 68 20 37 63 23 37 52 19 37 58 2 37 63 43 37 53 39 37 53 30 87 68 16 Mean time =952 »49 ( 304 ) Abstract of Observations for Latitude on road fromLEE Plaob of Obbbbtatiok. PoBgi&m Bazar YARKAND. At Elchi Kh&n& near the centre of the Tangi-Shahr or new city of T&rkand. a a S o 56 57 Astronomical date. 7th Nov. 1878 n n 27th Mar. 1874 8th Nov. 1873 11th Observer. Capt. Trotter... Instrument observed with. n » 12th 27th >9 9th Nov. 1873 10th 26th 80th 5th Dec. 1878 18th 99 14th )9 16th f9 18th n 19th 20th n >» n »f }» »9 21st 19 22nd 27th » 6l;h Jan. 1874 11th >9 18th n 17th n 19th 97 99 28th 99 80th 99 n 99 2(Hh Mfur. 1874 jNam sing 99 99 Capt. Trotter. 99 99 99 99 99 99 Nain Sing . 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 * Theodolite ... Sextant No. 7 7 7 99 99 Theodolite » » » Sextant ;No. 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 Object observed. a Urs» Minoris (PoZom)* 99 99 99 a Canis Minoris (Froeyon) Jupiter a Urss Minoris {Polaris)* Sun (Z.i.)* a Cephei c Pegasi a Aquarii a Ursse Minoris {Polaru) 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 a Canis Majoris {Siriui) a Canis Minoris (ProeyoJi) a HjdrsB a Tauri (Aldeharan) P Ononis {Rigel) j3 Ursa Minoris 99 Ceti Jupiter Ononis (JELigel) Canis Majoris {Siriu8) .. Sun(J7.X.) Ursse Minoris (Polaris) Ononis Canis Majoris {Sirius).. Canis Minoris {Proejfon) Leonis (Be^ulus) Sun ( U. i.) Tauri {Aldeharan) Suu(Z7:i.) HjdrsB Leonis {Begvlus) Ursse Minoris {Polaris) Sun {U, Z.) 99 99 99 99 Jupiter a Yirginis {Spica) fi Ursse Minoris a Ursse Minoris {Polaris) fi Ononis {Eigel) a Ononis a Canis Majoris (iSMtff).. SunCCT.X.) ( 305 ) to Y AUK AND vi& Ohang^Chenmo and Shahid^ld.- -(Concluded.) Elements Doable altitudes or zenith rSED IK COH- PUTATIOM OF Desvoed Latitvoes. distances corrected for SSFBACTIOK. Remabes. index and level ^■i^F ^H^ ^^M ^H^^^I^M ^tm Hi^ ^B ^^r ^1» V errors. Baro- Ther. By stars north By sun or stars B'inal latitudes meter. Faht. of zenith. south of zenith. north. o t f Xncke,, DtgrtM, o / n o / t O f 1 H. M. S. Z.D. 60 25 21(») 26-3 29 38 11 63(8) Mean time — 10 4 44 D.A. 79 8 30 25-4 35 38 11 32 „ 114 42 40 25*4 35 38 12 11 • „ 110 1 0 258 51 38 12 1 38 11 54 Z. D. 50 13 58(1) 26-6 28 38 24 48(1) •s 56 9 37(6) 26-4 47 Mean time :-; 10 45 0 23 37 68 26-4 40 38 24 55 38 25 16(6) =^12 2 29 29 6 39 26-4 40 I-38 24 67 39 20 19 264 40 38 24 69 50 21 50(3)1 26-5 35 38 24 48(8) 38 26 5 60 13 21(*) 26-5 31 38 24 40(4) J Mean time =11 34 50 77 „ = 9 14 51 D.A. 79 36 20 26-2 40 38 26 28 • 79 36 40 262 40 38 25 38 ■X 70 7 30 26-2 22 .38 25 4 „ 114 16 50 99 22 38 25 5 86 58 30 >> 22 38 25 7 „ 136 43 40 »> 22 38 23 52 86 30 10 »> 22 38 26 3 46 14 10 ti 22 38 24 69 46 14 10 99 22 38 24 59 65 61 10 99 22 38 24 65 „ 106 9 40 }9 22 38 24 57 86 29 0 99 22 38 25 36 70 7 30 » 22 38 24 59 56 53 0 » 32 38 25 16 79 35 40 99 22 38 25 16 „ 117 55 50 9} 22 38 25 36 „ 70 7 0 9t 22 38 25 14 „ 114 16 10 99 22 38 25 22 „ 128 21 0 99 22 38 24 65 38 26 8 Final latitude 56 60 10 99 82 38 26 18 « of Y4rkand 38° 25' 2''-5 „ 135 40 40 99 22 38 25 22 ^^ ^ ^^ ^^^ «^ V^F^b' ^^ ^^ %^ B^B^^ ^^B ^r 56 62 30 99 82 38 24 9 86 58 50 99 22 38 24 51 „ 128 21 30 99 22 38 24 39 74 10 0 99 18 38 26 16 58 43 0 99 28 38 26 22 60 6 40 99 28 38 24 57 60 46 20 99 28 38 26 11 „ 104 18 20 99 18 38 26 6 82 12 30 99 18 38 24 37 ^ „ 46 14 10 99 18 38 25 7 74 9 40 99 18 38 26 6 86 30 0 99 18 38 25 0 „ 117 56 10 99 18 38 26 24 70 7 0 99 18 38 26 6 „ 103 19 40 99 49 38 26 16 } ( 306 ) Abstract of Observations for Latitude on road from LEE Place of Obbkbvatiok. Panamik Village Ch&Dglung Village Ttitial&k ^ Camp (Ptmg- dong-su.) Saus6r-poIu... Bruchse Khdmd&i Gamp Giapshan Eizil Daolatbeg-uldi B<i or E&r&koram pola en u B 0 o 0 OS 59A 59B Astronomical date. 4th Oct. 1873 99 n 6th Oct. 1873 }» 99 99 >» >9 99 59D 16th May 1874 17th 9> 99 99 *9 99 Observer. Nain Sing ... 99 Nain Sing 99 99 99 9» 99 9» 99 Instrument observed with. Object observed. Sextant No. 7 99 Sextant No. 7 7 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 7 7 7 7 7 7 7th Oct. 1873 15th May 1874 99 99 69F 83 8th Oct. 1873 13th May 1874 99 Nain Sing 99 99 Nain Siug 60 60A 14th „ 20th June 1874 17th June 1874 99 99 99 99 99 99 12th May 1874 11th May 1874 99 99 99 Sextant No. 7 7 7 99 Capt. Trotter . Capt. Trotter.. 99 99 99 99 99 61 62B 99 19 99 99 11th Oct. 1873 10th May 1874 99 99 99 99 Nain Sing ... Nain Sing 99 99 Nain Sing Nain Sing 99 99 Sextant No. 7 7 7 ,9 7 Theodolite Theodolite 99 99 99 Sextant No. 7 Sextant No. 7 99 99 Sextant No. 7 Sextant No. 7 7 7 aPiscis Australia {Fomal' haut) a Urss Minoris (Polaris)... Saturn a Piscis Australia {Fomal- haut) a UrssB Minoris {FolarU) a CanisMajori8(/Siirft»)... a Ur8» Minoris {Polaris) Jupiter a Virginis {Spiea) P Ursffi Minoris a Aquilse {dUair) Jupiter a Ursae Minoris {Polaris) a CanisMajoris(jS»ru(#)... Jupiter a UrssB Minoris {Polaris) j3 UrssB Minoris Sun (Centre) 99 99 a Serpen tis ... ( Ursse Minoris 3 Ophiuchi ... j3 UrsaB Minoris a Urse Minoris (Polaris) Jupiter a Virginis (Spica) a Ursas Minoris (Polaris) j3 Orionis (Eiffel) Jupiter a Virginis (Spiea) a Unsse Minoris (Polaris) ( 307 ) to YARKAND yi& Karakoram and Kugiar. Double altitudes or zenith distances cor- rected for index Elsmivts trssD nr com- putation OF BBFAACTION. DXDUOBD LaTITUSSB. Bbhabks. oliU Jo VOX errors. Baro- meter. Ther. Faht. By stars north of senith. By sun or stars south of zenith. Final Lati- tudes north. 0 t D.A. 49 54 72 21 V 40 10 207 20-7 4A 4A 0 1 » 84 47 46 0 t H 84 46 84 0 1 » 84 47 10 D.A. 67 29 49 86 80 20 208 20-8 4A 44 84 56 60 84 66 42 72 88 77 6 67 9 119 14 89 8 100 29 20 40 80 40 80 80 20-8 203 20-2 20-2 202 20-2 44 44 60 50 60 60 84 66 28 84 66 49 84 64 28 84 65 40 84 66 88 84 66 1 84 66 48 D. A. 127 6 „ 119 6 67 18 0 80 50 17-4 17-4 17-4 80 86 86 86 0 26 84 69 81 85 046 86 0 17 D.A. 76 62 „ 119 1 67 24 100 45 Z. D. 11 86 0 40 0 10 58 171 17-8 17-8 17-3 16-6 21 80 80 80 42 86 2 69 86 2 16 86 2 26 86 2 68 86 8 4 86 2 48 k Z.D. 28 16 48 6 88 27 89 86 88 58 27 85 16-6 16 6 166 16-6 42 42 42 86 4 28 86 4 16 86 6 6 86 6 89 86 4 61 / D.A. 67 84 0 17-0 80 86 8 1 86 8 1 D.A. 118 80 88 24 67 68 40 0 0 16-7 16-7 16-7 19 19 19 86 17 80 86 17 68 86 18 14 86 17 64 D.A. 92 86 10 16-2 16 ■ 86 22 16 86 22 16 D.A. 118 16 „ 88 9 68 6 80 40 40 16-5 16-5 165 17 17 17 86 28 49 85 24 41 86 26 24 86 24 26 oSO ( 808 ) Abstract of Observations for Latitude on road from LEH Place or Obbibvation. OD s c C2 Astronomical date. Observer. Instrument observed with. Object observed. Nain Sing's Camp near E4r&-korum Pass. E4r&koram Brangsa . . . Akt^b (2nd Camp) ... ThiB camp is about one mile to the north of Aldigh Ist on the Shdhiddla route. Khufelong Camp Kdshmir-jilga Camp Kin;hiz Camp (near Kirghiz jangal.) Tupa Diw4n Gamp 62A. 62 79 78 77 76B 25th April 1874 ♦♦ »> >♦ n j» >» 9th May 1874 >} » 15th June 1874 »» »> 8th May 1874 >» ij t) » 18th June 1874 12th June 1874 17th Oct. 1878 >» »> n Nain Sing Capt. Trotter Nain Sing Capt. Trotter 97 76A 18th Oct, 1878 19 }> » aOth Oct. 1878 99 n t Capt. Trotter Nain Sing 99 99 Nalo Sing >9 99 Nain Sing 99 99 Sextant No. 7 7 7 7 7 7 Theodolite 99 99 99 99 Sextant No. 7 7 7 99 99 Theodolite 99 99 99 • •• Theodolite Sextant No. 99 99 7 7 Sextant No. 7 7 7 99 19 Sextant No. 7 7 99 99 99 7 7 Jupiter ... a Virgiiiis (Spica) a Ursa Minoris (Polaris) ^ Ursffi Minoris Jupiter ... a Ursse Minoris {Polaris) Sun (Centre) a Virginis (Spica) ( Virginis ... a Librie P UrssB Minoris Jupiter ... a Virginis (Spiea) a Ursie Minoris (Polaris) a Viginis (S^nea) a Librs /3 Urssd Minoris /3 Libra» Sun (Centre) Saturn a Piscis Australia (Fomal' haut) a Urate Minoris (Polaris) 0 Orionis (Si^l) a Orionis a Canis Majoria (Sirius). Saturn a Piscis Australis (Fbmal' haut) a UrsiB Minoris (Polaris) a Canis Majoris (Sirius),., ( 309 ) to TARKAND yi& Karakoram and Kugiar. — (Continued.) KLEMEirrs Double altitudes or zenith distances cor- rected for index and U8BD TH COM- PUTATION OP BEPBACTIOK. Deducid Latitudes. Krmabkb. level errors. Baro- meter. Ther. Faht. By stars north of zenith. By sun or stars south of Eenith. Final latitudes north. o r V Ineket. J}tffTt09. 0 1 n o / // 0 / n D. A. 117 82 20 87 54 40 68 24 30 101 47 30 117 58 30 68 23 50 15-6 15-6 156 156 161 161 30 30 30 30 25 25 35 38 15 35 33 22 35 32 56 35 32 35 32 50 35 33 14 • 35 33 4 Z. D. 12 18 56 46 7 33 85 34 33 51 8 37 39 2 17 D. A. 117 48 10 87 45 10 68 32 40 166 15-6 156 15-6 156 17-4 17-4 17-4 45 45 45 45 45 15 15 15 35 87 36 35 37 16 35 38 8 35 37 42 35 37 43 35 37 33 35 37 55 35 87 41 35 87 42 Z. D. 46 30 21 51 30 46 38 40 6 44 54 45 169 169 169 169 81 31 31 81 85 59 44 86 0 35 36 0 13 86 0 9 36 0 11 Z. D. 12 59 8 17-4 52 86 8 84 86 8 84 D. A. 64 51 40 47 1 80 17-5 17-5 80 80 86 16 42 86 18 2 75 15 0 17'6 80 86 14 55 86 14 54 D. A. 90 35 50 122 2 30 74 12 20 17-7 17-7 17-7 20 20 20 36 21 59 86 22 10 86 22 19 86 22 9 k D. A. 64 88 0 46 40 30 181 18-1 81 81 86 24 81 86 28 85 < 75 86 40 74 9 30 181 181 81 81 86 25 45 36 28 48 86 24 24 ( 310 ) Abstract of Observations for Latitude on road from ZEE Place of Obbbbtatiok. Sasak bul&k Camp Teshek Tiah Camp Daba Gamp Maz&r Ehoja Chiklik Ak-Masjid ... Fus&r Village S Q a a 9 O a s 03 Astronomical date. Observer. Instrument observed with. Object obserred. Kirghiz Jangul Camp ... 76 78A 78A 73 66 10th June 1874 99 » 17th April 1874 >9 99 99 9) » 99 99 18th April 1874 •9 99 99 99 99 99 Capt. Trotter.., 99 99 99 Nain Sing 99 99 99 91 99 Nain Sing 99 99 99 5th Jane 1874 99 99 12th April 1874 66A 99 99 99 99 99 99 Slat May 1874 68 99 99 •9 99 99 99 Capt.Trotter... Nain Sing 99 99 99 Theodolite » » Sextant No. 7 7 7 7 7 7 99 99 99 99 99 Sextant No. 7 7 7 7 9» 99 Theodolite ... 99 Capt.Trotter... 99 99 99 Sextant No. 7 7 7 7 99 99 99 Theodolite 8th April 1874 6dA 99 9th 99 19 99 99 9« 99 Nain Sing 99 99 99 6th April 1874 7th 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 ... I Sextant No. 7 7 7 7 7 Nain Sing 99 99 99 99 99 99 Sextant No. 7 7 7 a Virginia (Sirica) a Libre j3 XJrssB Minoris j3 Libr» a Hydra a Leonis (^Beffuhfi) Jupiter ... a Virginis (S^iea) a Urs» Minoris (^Folarii) j3 Ur8» Minoris a HydrsB ... Jupiter a Ursn Minoris (^Polarii) j3 Ursso Minoris a CoronsB a Serpen tis ... Sun (Upper Limb) a Leonis (E^uIus) Jupiter a UrB» Minoris (Po2arif) a Libra a Bootis {Arctumui) j3 Urs» Minoris j3 Libr» a Leonis {Begultut) Jupiter ... Sun (Upper Limb) a Hydra Jupiter ... Sun (Upper Limb) 99 99 99 99 Jupiter I ( 311 ) to TABKAN D viA Karakoram and Kugiar. — (Continued.) Elements Double altitudes or zenith distances corrected for itkIat' ATtil IavpI Arrnra irsiD nr gom- PUTATION OP BBFBACTIOV. DSDVCED LaTITUBBB. « • RXMABBS. Baro- meter. Ther. Faht. By stars north of zenith. By sun or stars south of zenith. Final latitudes north. O / V 7^.. D4ffr04§. O t H O t H O f v Z. D. 46 55 35 51 56 12 38 14 10 45 20 23 18-2 18-2 18 2 18-2 26 26 26 26 36 25 37 36 25 54 36 25 46 86 25 40 36 25 44 I D.A. 90 62 30 132 14 60 115 16 10 86 5 40 70 13 10 103 36 20 18-3 183 18-3 18-3 183 18-3 18 18 18 18 18 18 86 27 25 36 27 41 36 27 28 86 27 47 36 27 7 86 27 30 36 27 30 D.A. 90 19 20 114 24 50 70 46 50 104 10 0 19-9 19-9 199 19*9 24 24 24 24 36 44 11 36 44 27 36 44 6 36 44 26 36 44 18 Z.D. 9 38 13 29 56 53 20-2 20-2 55 55 36 46 87 36 46 30 86 46 34 D. A. 124 8 20 131 30 20 114 7 30 70 59 20 20-9 20-9 209 20-9 39 30 30 30 36 50 50 36 60 3 36 60 52 36 60 24 36 50 32 Z.D. 52 33 15 17 12 42 37 87 2 45 57 18 21-8 21-8 21-8 21-8 52 52 52 52 37 3 11 37 2 40 37 2 54 37 2 49 37 2 54 « D.A. 130 54 20 ;, 113 15 0 121 20 60 89 31 0 113 17 30 21-3 213 213 21-3 21*3 33 33 40 33 33 37 8 4 87 7 38 37 8 17 37 8 18 37 8 50 37 8 13 D.A. 118 41 10 „ 119 24 0 112 46 40 227 22-7 22-7 47 47 44 • 37 20 40 37 21 51 37 19 20 37 20 37 a51 ( 312 ) Abstract of Observations for Latitude on road from LER • 8 Place or Obsibtatiok. 0 S e £ 03 Astronomical date. Observer. Instrument observed with. Object observed. Kugiir Village 69 29th May 1874 Capt. Trotter .. Theodolite ... 17 Ursse Majoris »> w ... S9 ... j3 Ursffl Minoris 2nd April 1874 Nain Sing ,.. Sextant No. 7 Jupiter 8rd „ • „ 7 Sun (Upper Limb) rt >» „ 7 a Leonis {Regulus) 4th „ >f ••• 7 Sun (Upper Limb) 9» « „ 7 a Hydrs » » „ 7 a Leonis {Regultu) 6th „ » 7 Sun (Upper Limb) n « „ 7 a Leonis (^Regulm) Yolirik VUlage 68 27th May 1874 Capt. Trotter.. Theodolite ... 3 Ursa Minoris n » » ... j3 Libra ( 313 ) to YAjRKAND viA Karakoram and Kugiar. — (Concluded.) Elements. ' Double altitudes or zenith USED IK COM- PUTA-TIOK OF Deduced Latitudes. distances corrected for index and level errors. BEESACTION. Remakes. Baro- Ther. By stars north By sun or stars Final latitudes meter. Faht. of zenith. south of zenith. north. o / w InekM, Degrtn. O t ft o 1 n o / /r Z. D. 12 32 43 23-4 63 37 23 43 37 15 29 23-4 63 37 24 11 ^ D. A. 112 10 40 232 40 37 24 11 116 15 40 232 45 37 25 1 130 23 40 23-2 40 ^ 37 23 25 IW 1 20 23-2 45 37 25 6 88 59 40 23-2 40 37 24 2 \ 130 23 10 23-2 40 37 23 40 117 47 0 23-2 45 37 25 4 130 22 40 232 40 37 23 55 37 24 14 Z. D. 37 12 41 23-6 70 37 26 59 46 21 40 23*6 70 37 27 13 87 27 6 ( 314 ) Abstract of Observations for Latititde on road from LEM Place of Obsebyatiok. 1 a s a i "a Aatronomical date. Observer. Instrument observed with. Object observed. p 1 Augche Chortan, R. bank of Nischu Biver. lOSA. 28th Joly 1874 29th „ Eishen Sing... 99 Sextant No. 8.. 99 ... a Scorpii (Aniares) 13 Ceti Sumzi Ling Gamp 108 26th Joly 1874 27th Eishen Sing... » ... )> \ ... 99 ••• 99 ••• a Aquilse (Altinr) a Piscis Australia {Ihmal' haut) j3 Ceti Chumik Lb&kmo Camp... 107 23rd July 1874 24th „ »> 99 Eishen Sing... » ••• 91 99 99 99 a Scorpii (Antarei) a Aquilffi (Altair) Saturn ... a Piscis Australis (Fomal- haui) Tdshli&k Khiol, lake bank of. 106 22nd July 1874 9t » Eishen Sing... 99 ••• 99 ••• Saturn a Piscis Australis (Fomal- haut) Arash Camp, on right bank of Eiria river. 108 14th July 1874 15th ,, 19 » Eishen Sing... n n 99 ••• 99 99 a Scorpii (Awtarei) a Piscis Australis (Famal' haut) a Scorpii (Antarei) Ghubolik Camp, bank of UlokshahiKhiolLake. 102 12th July 1874 18th ,, Eishen Sing... 99 99 ••• a Aquilse (Altair) Saturn ... Polu Village 101 2nd July 1874 4th 7th 8th Eishen Sing... M » ... 99 '•* W ... 99 ••• 99 99 99 99 a Scorpii (Antaret) a Aquile (AUair) Saturn a Aquile (Altair) a Scorpii (Antares) 9th „ 99 9> 99 ••• 99 99 99 99 a Aquile (Altair) Kiria Bazar 99 18th June 1874 26th 27th „ 28th „ 29th Eishen Siog... » ... M ••• l> ••• 99 99 ••• 99 99 ••• 99 99 /3 Urse Minoris a Aquile (Altair) Saturn /3 Urse Minoris a Aquile (Altair) Saturn \ ( 316 ) to TABKAND viA NOH, POLU, and KSOTAN. Elkmekts Pouble altitudes or zenith distance corrected for index and level USED IN COM- PUTATION OP BEPKAOTION. DsDiTCED Latitudes. Behabko. errors. Baro- Ther. By stars north By sun or stars Final latitudes meter. Faht. of zenith. south of zenith. north. O 1 tt Inehm. I)0gru9, O t H 0 / 1 O 1 1 D. A. 60 20 40 17-6 42 33 41 23 75 15 60 17-6 42 33 42 24 88 41 54 D. A. 129 2 10 171 42 34 1 26 51 26 0 171 42 34 1 1 74 87 50 171 42 34 1 26 84 1 18 / D. A. 5S 68 10 16-3 41 34 22 38 „ 128 18 0 163 41 84 23 31 75 5 10 16-3 41 34 21 6 50 42 50 16-3 41 34 22 37 34 22 28 D. A. 74 36 0 16-4 40 34 38 19 50 9 0 164 40 34 39 29 34 38 64 D. A. 56 44 0 160 88 35 29 49 48 28 40 16-8 38 86 29 49 « 66 43 30 168 38 35 30 3 85 29 54 D. A. 126 41 40 168 40 36 41 40 72 55 20, 17-3 40 35 40 10 35 40 55 D. A. 55 20 40 21-8 65 86 11 42 ,, 124 89 40 23-0 65 36 12 43 72 16 50 230 65 36 10 13 „ 124 89 30 22-1 65 86 12 49 55 20 50 22-0 66 36 11 37 65 21 0 21-9 65 36 11 32 „ 124 89 20 219 65 36 12 53 86 11 56 « D. A. 104 24 80 250 69 36 51 57 86 51 26 „ 123 22 0 250 69 86 51 35 71 11 40 25-1 69 36 50 24 „ 104 24 50 25 0 69 86 62 8 „ 123 22 0 25-2 69 36 51 35 1 71 9 10 25'2 69 86 49 87 a62 ( 316 ) Abstract of Observations for Latitude on road from LEE Place of Obbbhvation. e a a> Sorgbak Khiang Shahi Bazar. Chira Bazar 100 98 KHOTANCITY. Obser- vations taken in Sbamal Bagb in nearly tbe same latitude as the centre of the city. 98 Eardk&h Bazar 94 Guma Bazar 90 Astronomical date* Observer. Instrument observed with. 22nd June 1874 23rd n EishenSing ... 11th June 1874 12th 9} 13th » 14th » 19th May 1874 }> Eishen Sing... 99 Sextant No. 8. 99 20th 99 99 21st 99 99 26th »i 27th 28th 99 29th 30th 99 99 I 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 Eishen Sing... 3rd June 1874 4th 99 99 9» 5th 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 19 99 99 99 99 99 ••• 23rd May 1874 24th 99 99 99 99 99 12th May 1874 Eishen Sing... 99 99 99 Eishen Sing... 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 •9 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 » • • * Object observed. j3 UrssB Minoris a AquilsB (Altair) a Yirginis {Spied) j3 Ursse Minoris a Aquils (Altair) fi Urssd Minoris a Aquilae (Altair) a Virginis (Spiea) a Urs» Minoris {Polaris). j3 UrsaB Minoris a \irginis (Spiea) a UrssB Minoris {Folarit), /3 Utssb Minoris a Scorpii {Antares) a Virginis {Spied) a UrssB Minoris {Polaris), /3 Ursse Minoris a UrssB Minoris {PoUms). (3 Ursse Minons q, Aquilsd {Altair) a Scorpii {Antares) a Aquilse {Altair) (3 UrssB Minons a Aquilaa {Altair) d Yirginis {S^iea) a UrssB Minoris {Polaris). j3 UrssB Minoris a Yirginis {Spied) a Aquils {Altair) a Yirginis {Sipioa) a UrssB Minoris {Polaris), j3 Ursse Minoris a Aquilse {Altair) a Yirginis {SIpiea) a Yirginis {^iea) a Ursse Minoris {Polaris). j3 Ursse Minoris Jupiter ( 317 ) to TABKANB y'A NOH, POLU, and KSO TAN.— (Gonchiied.) Elements Double altitades or zenith distances corrected for index and level USED IN COM- PUTATION OF BErBACTION. Deduced Latitudes. BEHi.BKB. errors. Baro- Ther. By stars nortij By sun or stars Final latitudes meter. Faht. of zenith. south of zenith north. O f ff Inehe$. DtffreM. 0 / ff O / V o t n D. A. 104> 0 40 22-9 66. 86 40 5 „ 123 45 50 22-9 66 86 89 87 36 39 51 D. A. 85 1 20 25*4 69 86 59 49 „ 104 41 40 25-4 69 37 0 80 ^ „ 123 3 50 25-4 69 37 0 37 „ 104 41 60 25-4 69 87 0 86 „ 123 4 0 25-4 69 37 0 32 87 0 26 • D. A. 84 47 0 252 70 37 6 58 71 35 0 252 70 37 8 20 „ 104 56 40 26-2 70 37 7 55 84 46 50 25-2 70 37 7 3 71 34 40 252 70 37 8 10 „ 104 56 50 252 70 87 8 0 53 29 40 25-2 70 37 7 29 m 84 47 10 262 70 37 6 53 71 34 40 252 70 37 8 10 „ 104 56 40 252 70 37 7 55 71 34 50 255 70 37 8 16 „ 104 56 30 25 5 70 37 7 61 „ 122 50 50 25-5 70 37 7 4 53 29 10 265 70 87 7 43 „ 122 50 40 25-5 70 87 7 9 „ 104 56 30 25-5 70 37 7 51 „ 122 50 40 265 70 37 7 10 • 84 46 40 255 70 87 7 8 •• 71 84 10 25-5 70 37 7 58 „ 104 56 20 25-5 70 87 7 48 1 84 46 40 25-6 70 37 7 9 „ 122 50 20 265 70 37 7 22 84 46 30 256 70 37 7 14 71 34 10 25-6 70 87 7 59 „ 104 56 30 26-5 70 37 7 55 „ 122 50 30 25-6 70 37 7 17 87 7 86 D. A. 84 29 0 25-7 70 37 15 59 » 84 28 30 25-7 70 37 16 14 „ 71 54 0 26-7 70 87 17 49 „ 105 15 0 25-7 70 87 17 6 87 16 47 1 < D. A. 113 52 30 25-5 69 37 87 81 87 87 81 ( 318 ) Abstract of Observations for Latitude on road from a Plaos of Obbebyation. s s £ .2 C3 Astronomical date. Observer. Instrument observed with. Object observed. Kok EoWt ... 109 20th May 1874 Capt. Trotter... Theodolite •• . Jupiter 19 19 99 99 ... /3 Leonig 99 99 99 99 ... a Virginis {B^pica) KizilVUlage 110 80th Nov. 1873 Capt. Trotter..-. 1 Theodolite ... a Ursse Minons {Polarig)* 99 99 99 99 • . . 99 99 99 Yangi Hissar Tqwii HI IstDec. 1878 Capt. Trotter... Theodolite ... a nrs» Minons {Polaris)^ 18th Mar. 1874 99 99 ... a Leonis (Beffuliu) Yapohan Village 112 SrdDce. 1878 Capt. Trotter... Theodolite ... a Urs® Minoris (Polaris)* 99 99 99 99 y Pegasi (Alffenib)* KASHGHAR— Yangi - 118 4th Dec. 1878 Capt. Trotter... Theodolite ... a Ursa Minoris (Polaris)* Shahr. In Embassy 19th „ 99 99 ... 99 99 99 Quarters just outside 24th ,, 99 99 • « . • 99 »» 99 the gate of the Yangi- 99 99 99 ••• 99 ... a Tauri {Aldeharan) Shahr. 99 99 99 ••• 99 ... /3 Orionis (BigeV) 99 99 99 ••• 99 ... e Orionis 27th „ 99 ••• 99 ... j3 Orionis (Biffel) 99 99 99 ••• )9 ... € Orionis 99 99 99 99 . ■ . a Urs» Minoris (Polaris)* 29th Jan. 1874 99 99 • a* ^ Ononis 99 99 99 ••• 99 ... e Orionis 99 99 99 ••• 99 • .. a Orionis* 8rdFeb. 1874 99 ••• 99 ... a Canis Minoris (Pfwyon)* 99 99 99 ••• 99 ... a UrssB Minoris (Polaris)* 18th „ 99 ••• 99 . • . a Oanis Majoris* 99 99 99 99 ... a XJrs» Minoris (Polaris)* 99 99 99 ••• 99 « . . 99 99 99 • 99 99 99 99 ... 99 99 99 ( 319 ) TABKAND to KA8E0HAB. Elements • Double altitudes or zenith diatancefl corrected for U8ID IK COM- PUTATION OF Deduced Latitudes. indc !x and level errors. BEJBA.CTI0N. Remabes. Baro- Ther. Bj stars north By sun or stars Final latitudes meter. Faht. of zenith. south of zenith north. O t H Ineke.. Dtgrtu. o ; 1 O 1 H o 1 n Z. D. 83 53 20 258 71 88 26 11 9f 23 9 29 258 71 88 26 2 » 48 56 25 25-8 71 88 26 2 88 26 5 H. M. 1 8. Z. D. 50 11 57(«) 26-4 20 88 89 26(8) Mean time= 6 19 48 19 50 7 33W 26-3 20 38 39 20(» 88 39 23 99 =6 44 5 Z. D. 49 48 24(9) 26-3 87 38 55 58(3) Mean tiine= 6 66 >9 26 20 59 25-2 83 88 56 17 38 56 8 Z. D. • 49 32 48(8) 25-5 88 89 18 820) Mean time= 6 86 15 » 24 44 53(2) 255 88 89 18 800) 89 18 31 9, =7 88 48 Z. D. 49 34 40 256 24 89 24 16^) Mean time=ll 7 4 » 49 88 89(«) 256 14 89 24 19(4) 9, =10 18 28 n 49 13 25 255 17 39 24 5 n 23 8 40 99 99 89 24 23 s w 47 44 80 99 99 89 24 86 " 40 40 44 99 99 89 24 81 47 44 19 99 99 89 24 24 if 40 40 84 99 99 89 24 21 99 49 55 88(3) 99 20 89 24 22(8) Mean tiine=:10 51 8 99 89 47 55 99 17 89 25 0 99 40 41 14 99 99 89 24 57 99 82 1 81(^ 25-7 19 89 24 26(4) Mean time= 9 36 47 99 83 52 48(*) 25-5 14 89 24 19(4) = 7 26 83 99 50 61 16(*) 99 99 89 24 13(4) =11 1 45 99 55 56 82(«) 25-5 20 89 24 32(«) = 6 58 42 99 50 44 10(S) 99 99 89 24 14(2) =10 2 5 99 50 47 47(») •9 99 89 24 26(2) =10 12 48 99 50 49 ]8(2) 99 99 89 24 83(S) 39 24 26 =10 17 84 » Torgat BeU 119 7th Jan. 1874 Capt. Trotter... Theodolite ... a Urse Minoris (Polaris) Ohaervations for Latitude on road ""Aydk Soghon 126 20th Feb. 1874 Capt. Trotter... 9> Theodolite ... e Orionis • ... a Orionis Kyr BuUk 127 27th Feb. 1874 Capt. Trotter... Theodolite ... a XJrsse Minoris (Polaris)* Ui BuUk 129 26th Feb. 1874 99 99 Capt. Trotter... >» ••• Theodolite ... n ... /3 Orionis (Bi^el) h Orionis € Orionis • i Taizab&d 182 2nd March 1874 » 99 99 l> Capt. Trotter ... w ... » ••• Theodolite ... 1) ..« 8 Orionis € Orionis a Orionis Maralb&shi 137 11th Jan. 1874 17th Capt. Biddulph w ... Six-inch Sextant. 99 Sun (L. L.) Observations for Latitude taken in Tangitir ... 139 17th Feb. 1874 Capt. Trotter... Theodolite ... a Canis Minoris {Proton) /3 Geminorum {Pollus) ... Tughamati... 140 18th Feb. 1874 99 V Capt. Trotter... Theodolite ... » ... 0 Orionis (Ri^el) i Orionis e Orionis Ki7.il-boia orShamba Bazar 140A 8rd Jan. 1874 4th Eishen Sing ... j> ••• Sextant No. 44 A.A. « 44 a Orionis a Canis Majoris {Sirius),., a Canis Minoris {Procyom) Khdnirik or KhAnirik Shamba Bazar. 140B. . 5th Jan. 1874 >» » 6th Eishen Sing ... » ... » ••• Sextant No. 44 „ 44 „ 44 „ 44 fi Orionis (Eiffel) a Orionis a Canis Majoris (Sirius)... a Canis Minoris (Proeyon) — ( 321 ) KASROEAB to CEADTBKUL. Double altitudes or zenith distances, corrected for index and level Elbmentb usbd in com- PUTATION or BKJfRAGTIOK. Deduced Latitudes. Bemabks. errors. Baro- meter. Ther. Faht. By stars north of zenith. By son or stars south of zenith. Final latitudes north. 0 t If Z. D. 39 59 34 Z. D. 48 50 36 « Z.D. 62 3 11 Z. D. 62 41 14 Z. D. 48 13 51 Inehet. 25-0 230 21-5 21-6 19-4 20 2 32 10 —10 O t H 39 47 0 40 28 53 O 1 If 39 36 50 40 5 9 40 8 28 O f H 39 36 50 39 47 0 40 5 9 40 8 28 40 23 53 1 from KASHGSAR to AKSU. Z. D. 41 „ 32 17 35 5 56 255 255 23 23 40 0 47 39 59 25 40. 0 6 . Z. D. 50 7 31(3) 252 29 40 6 7(3) 40 6 7 H. Jf. S. Mean time = 9 21 21 Z. D. 48 „ 40 „ 41 46 49 42 1 22 41 23-8 23-8 23-8 25 25 25 40 25 57 40 26 24 40 26 20 40 26 14 • Z.D. 39 „ ' 40 „ 32 52 45 6 31 51 15 260 26-0 260 42 42 42 39 29 34 39 29 30 39 29 42 39 29 35 Z. D. 61 „ 60 50 47 7 12 26 2 26-3 28 29 • 39 46 1 39 46 46 39 46 24 neighbourhood of KASSGRAB. Z. D. 34 23 22 11 36 53 n Z. D. 9) 48 40 41 D. A. 116 68 112 n 22 0 24 56 18 8 1 33 11 23 21 23 D. A. 84 116 68 112 » n M 48 16 25 35 33 13 53 3 23-9 32 239 32 23-7 30 23-7 30 237 30 250 20 250 20 250 20 260 20 26 0 20 260 20 260 20 39 56 41 39 56 51 40 1 54 40 1 57 40 1 46 39 22 44 39 22 59 39 22 44 39 15 46 39 15 24 89 15 44 39 15 53 39 56 46 40 1 52 39 22 49 39 15 42 ( 322 ) Abstract of Observations for Latitvde on road from YANG I to KILAH 1 Pt.ACB of 0BBEBTATI05. • i s c Aatronomical date. Observer. Instrument observed with. Object observed. • Aktala Gamp ••• 149 22Dd March 1874 Capt. Trotter 99 Theodolite ... 99 a Hydre a Leonis (Regulwt) ... Kasha-Bu Camp • • • 1 151 16th May 1874 Capt. Trotter 99 99 99 Theodolite ... 99 99 ••• 99 ••• a ,Virginis (Spied) ( Virginia ri Ursffi Majoris a Bootis (Arcturua) ... .» • ... ... Tdrbasbi Camp • ■ • 156 27th March 1874 Capt. Trotter Theodolite ... a Leonis (Seffulus) . «■ TASHKURGHAN, Camp near the Fort. leo 3l8t March 1874 Capt. Trotter 99 99 99 99 Theodolite ... 99 >9 ••• f 99 ••• 99 a Leonis (Reffului)* n 99 99 a Ursa Minoris (Polarii)* a UrssB Majoris* )9 99 99 s Kogachak Camp • • ■ 168 drd April 1874 Capt. Trotter 99 Theodolite ... 99 ••• a HydrsB a Leonis ... Aktasb Camp •• • 183 5th May 1874 Capt. Trotter Theodolite ... j3 Corvi ... Shash Tipd Camp • • • 181 2Dd May 1874. n >» 99 99 Capt. Trotter 99 99 Theodolite ... 99 99 a UrssB Majoris Z Leouis fi Corvi ... • a. ... Pamir-kul, Camp on edge of Oi-kul or of Little P4mir. I N. lake 165 6th April 1874 99 99 99 99 99 99 Capt. Totter 99 Theodolite ... 99 ••• 99 99 c TJrsse Majoris a Hydra a Leonis a UrssB Majoris 1 ... ... • a • .*• Dar&z Diw&n Camp • •« 167 7th April 1874 99 99 99 99 Capt. Trotter 99 99 • Theodolite ... 99 ••• 99 I UrssB Majoris a Hydrse 0 UrssB Majoris ... ... Maz&r Tipa Camp ■ • • 178 80th April 187^ b Capt. Trotter Theodolite ... y Leonis ... ( 323 ) PANJAH (WAKEANJ vi& TASEKVBQHAN and return jowney to YARKANB. • Elements Doable altitudes or senith distances corrected for index and level errors. TT8IBD IN COK- PUTATION OF BE7BA.CTI0N. Deduced Latitudes. Remakes. Baro- meter. Ther. Faht. By stars north of Eenith. By sun or stars south of zenith. Final latitudes north. • O > V Ineihn. DtffTMt, o t n 0 1 n 0 f n / Z. D. 46 35 44 25 53 42 222 222 29 29 % 38 29 38 38 28 67 38 29 18 Z.D. 48 41 46 38 8 44 11 44 50 18 21 49 19-7 197 197 19-7 26 26 26 26 38 11 34 88 12 16 38 12 8 38 12 3 38 12 0 Z.D. 25 30 55 190 15 • 88 6 8 38 6 8 Z. D. 25 12 7(») 26 U 37 63 11 31(8) 24 40 49^*^ 24 38 49 20-2 202 20-2 20 2 20-2 23 23 23 23 23 37 46 30(8) 37 46 66(4) 37 46 48 87 46 59(3) 37 46 60 37 46 49 Mean time = 9 23 37 = 9 39 20 = 10 17 48 Z. D. 45 43 37 25 1 46 18-2 18-2 9 9 37 37 23 37 36 58 37 37 11 Z. D. 60 16 18 » 18-6 26 37 36 13 1 37 35 13 Z. D. 24 54 9 16 18 32 60 13 2 260 260 260 18 18 18 • 37 31 36 37 31 64 37 31 32 37 31 39 Z. D. 11 17 65 45 21 48 24 38 68 25 11 49 180 180 180 18-0 4 4 4 4 37 14 14 37 15 33 37 14 10 37 13 49 37 14 27 Z. D. 11 31 49 45 6 30 15 14 69 19-6 19-6 19-6 27 27 27 37 0 20 37 0 16 37 0 1 37 0 9 Z.D. 16 69 69 1-79 20 37 28 53 37 28 63 > a54 ( 324 ) Abstraef of Observations for Lai. on road from TANGISI8SAB to KIZASPANJAH PlA.CE of 0B8SBTA.TI0K. & a Astronomical date. Observer. Instrament observed with. * Object observed. Yol Mazar Gamp KUah Panjah (WAKHAN) 176 174 28th April 1874 18th April 1874 22nd If n n >» i> i> Capt. Trotter... Capt. Trotter... » ... Theodolite ... Theodolite ... » ••• w ••• a Leonis ■ a TJnm Minoris (Polarui) a YirgimB (SpieaJ ( Virginis ... If UrvflB Majoris a Libras a Libne ( 326 ) (TFAKHAN)y\kTASHKUBGEANandretumj(mmey to YABKAND.—{Coi\!iM.) Elehbitts. Double altitudes or zenith distances corrected for index and level USED VS COH- puTATioir or SEFRA.CTI0K. DiDucED Latitudes. • Remabks. errors. Baro- Ther. By stars nortb By sun or stars Final latitudes meter. Fabt. of zenith. south of zenith. north. O f t /^ D^grtt. 0 / ¥ o t » O 1 II Z. D. 24 42 54 19-0 32 37 18 7 37 18 7 Z. D. 54 10 43 21-8 25 37 0 14 1 47 30 3 21-3 25 87 0 28 * 36 57 2 213 25 37 0 21 12 56 8 21-3 25 87 0 8 52 30 39 21-3 25 37 0 23 xL, JBLm s. 52 33 35rs) 213 25 37 0 25W 87 0 18 Mean time = 12 51 1 GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. SECTION B. LON^GHTUDES. a55 ( 328 ) The method of observation employed in the determination of absolute longi- tudes was that of lunar zenith distances, as being best adapted to the largest instru- ment carried with the expedition, viz., a six-inch transit theodolite, with micro- meter eye-piece. This method of observation has not hitherto occupied a prominent position in English astronomical works, and as the results at Kashghar cannot but be considered satisfactory, I have thought advisable to enter somewhat at length into the subject and to give an example of the computation of a single night's observations there, drawn up on a form specially prepared fromChauvenet's formulce by J. B. N. Hennessey, Esq., of the Great Trigonometrical Survey. The subject is gone into somewhat fully in an article furnished by, Colonel Walker, R.E., to Sinta to Travellers, a publication of the Royal Oeographical Society (3rd Edition, December 1871), to which the reader is referred. The instrument employed at Eashghar is furnished with two micrometers, each moving a separate wire, the eye-piece being so arranged that the microme- ter wires may be placed parallel either to the fixed vertical or to the fixed horizontal wire of the diaphragm, according as transits or zenith distances are required to be observed. The distance between the micrometer and centre wires is adjustable at pleasure, and may be set according to the rate of motion of the celestial body observed. A complete observation of the moon, on one face of the instrument, consists in noting the chronometer times of passage of the moon's limb across each of the wires in succession and the corresponding reading of the vertical ver- niers ; a complete pair of observations on both faces gives, altogether, six times and four readings of the vertical arc. The readings of the ends of the bubble of the level attached to the telescope, object and eye ends being alternately directed towards the object observed, give a correction to be applied to the mean of the readings of the vertical arc which gives a final zenith distance corresponding to the mean of the six chronometer times. In the example I have given it took me just three quarters of an hour to observe ten complete pairs of zenith distances as before described. A quarter of an hour may be allowed for the observation of three pairs of zenith distances 1o a star for time, prior to the observations to moon, and an equal time for similar observations after. To complete the observations in the time above men- tioned, however, the observer must be thoroughly familiar with his instrument, must have a good recorder, and have his lamps and apparatus in perfect order. The weak point of the system is thai; it is only applicable at certain times when the moon is favorably situated for observation ; still, hpwever, even in this respect it contrasts favorably with all other methods, excepting that of " lunar distances," for determining longitudes, I give some rules which have been laid down on this subject by Colonel Walker in the Mints to Travellers^ modified by subsequent experience : they may I hope be of use to future explorers. •* Take pairs of observations of zenith distance on a star for the determin- ation of the local time and chronometer error, then take other pairs of ob- servations of zenith distance on the moon ; in each instance adopt the mean or the chronometer times as that of the ' complete observation ' of zenith distance. Both moon and star should be as nearly easterly or westerly as possible, and not very near (say within 10° of) the horizon. The operations should commence and close with star observations, in order that the chronometer ( 329 ) rate may be diily ascertained and allowed for. The effect of instrumental errors will be materially reduced when the stars and the moon are on the same side of the meridian and .at nearly the same zenith distance; if time permits, observations should be taken both east and west of the meridian, and both before and after full moon. In north latitudes, when the moon is going from south to north in declination on any day, she is most favorably situated for observ- ing when west of the meridian ; if moving in declinaMon from north to south, she should be observed east of the meridian. The best time for observation is when the direction of the proper motion of the moon is towards the zenith of the observer. The sidereal time when this occurs may be readily found, graphically, by drawing on a chart of the heavens a tangent to the moon's orbit, at some point near the mean position of the moon on the day of observing, and producing it to cut the declination circle passing through the observer's zenith ; then the hour circle passing through the point of intersec- tion gives the sidereal time of observation. For practical purposes it will suffice to drop a perpendicular from the point indicating the moon's mean position on to the ecliptic, and drawing through that point a line at right angles with the perpendicular, and prolonging it to cut the decjlination circle. It will be found that the most favorable times occur when the moon is on the observer's prime vertical, and the least favorable when she is on the meridian. Wl>enever possible a few observations should be taken daily on several days rather than a large number on a single day." An examination of the results of the observations now published shows, at a glance, that those at Kashghar are both much more complete and satisfactory in every way than those taken at Yarkand and elsewhere. This is easily accounted for by several reasons : — My stay at Yarkand was limited to twenty days in all, many of which were cloudy and unfavorable for observing ; whereas I was at Kashghar on and off for more than two months, during which time I was enabled to select the most favorable days for observing ; I was at Yarkand during the early portion of our stay in the country, and not knowing what opportunities I should have, if any, for further observations, there or elsewhere, I observed the moon when- ever I could get an opportunity quite irrespective of its position being favour- able or otherwise. The observations were taken in a small court-yard, where the paved flooring gave anything but a stable footing to the instrument and caused great difficulty with the levels. The noise in the small court of people? moving about during the operation was, it may well be imagin.ed, highly detri- mental to such delicate work as observations for longitude, particularly where a pocket chronometer had to be used. At Kashghar, on the other hand, the court-yard was much larger and quieter and the ground more stable, and altogether the surroundings were very much more favorable. These circumstances, combined with the results obtained from the computa- tions, have induced me to employ the longitude of Kashghar as the origin for all my positions in Turkestan. I have merely employed the other observed longitudes as checks upon the general accuracy of the positions of those points as determined by other methods, for which vide the details on the construction of the map which are given in the body of the report. * (Sd.) Henry Trotter, Capt.^ R.E. ( 330 ) Ohaeroations for Time, and resulting Chronometer corrections employed in determining Local Mean THme for the calculation of Longitude from Lunar Zenith Distances. Place of Obser- vation. Astronomi- cal date. Object observed. E. or W. of Meridian Elekbkts bmfloted ts com- putation of k£- 7BAGTI0N. No. of pairs of obseryations. Mean of observ- ed Z. Ds cor- rected for dis- levelment. Mean of Chronome- ter Times. Computed correc- tion to Chrono- meter Time to find correspond- ing Mean Time. Baro. Ther. 1878. In. (Fahrt.) 0 O 1 tt JL* j9£1 8. • EASHGHAR (Yangi-Shahr.) 6th Dec. ... 7th „ ... 27th „ ... 28th „ ... M >f 1874. y Geminorum ... & ,. a Leonis a Androm. a Arietis E. w. 25-7 ... 25-8 ... 5 6 25-6 • • • 24 ■ ■ • • • • 16 20 18 • » • 8 8 3 8 8 2 2 58 8 29 41 15 19 47 21 6 66 7 68 42 46 7 50 11 53 52 26 16 10 8 820 11 43 27-3 11 7 67-6 12 40 2*6 9 21 811 11 39 117 11 50 45-6 —0 22 22^ —0 22 21 6 —0 22 192 —0 22 19-3 —0 22 19 2 —0 22 20-7 —0 22 20 1 29th Jan.... »f « ••• 81st „ ... fi Gekninorum ... a Leonis a „ E. 9> 9 • • 26-5 81 16 15 8 3 4 47 13 25 49 40 49 49 84 17 7 40 179 10 38 33*6 6 66 81-0 —0 22 22-0 — 0 22 22-4 +3 12 25-5 1873. YARKAND .. 8th Nov. .. >i n • • • 9th „ 1874. li Tauri /3 Geminorum ... it >» 99 »> . • • E. 26 25 26*26 • •* 28 ... 23 • • • 8 3 3 3 46 4 26 48 67 41 39 3 6 22 15 22 10 45 45-7 12 60 17 0 13 36 62 9 16 8 66 5 —0 18 25-7 —0 18 26-2 —0 18 23 2 —0 18 22-6 TASHKUR. GHAN. Slst Much. a B 0 0 1 i 8 (Arc- turua) E. 20^ 28 8 58 51 16 9 10 99 -hO 2 34-4 KILA PAN- • JAH 24th April }9 9} P Geminorum ... 21-4 . • • 41 ... 8 4 58 26 41 56 26 9 10 18 29-2 11 45 18-2 —0 10 5-2 —0 10 4^ ( 331 ) ObservaHons of Lunar Zenith Distances and resulting determination of Longitude. Astronomical Thk] kCOOV. each pair served Z. corrected eyelment. i. 8 8 2S BBSULTme LOVOXTUDB. -§1 Placb 07 Obsib- • gri \rii.1iiA ^rfim «D TATIOK. date. o o-c (U u o o Mean of of obG Ds fordisl a « each pair of obserya- tions. Mean of each day's obseryations. S <» g < o f n JEL. JSi, 0 . £[, 3£, 8, -ff. M. 8. H.M. KASHQHAR(Yangi. 6thDec. 1878. E. L. 48 80 8 10 27 19-8 5 4 9 Shahr). 47 48 47 30 590 4 25 The station of obser- 46 40 26 87 4-4 4 6 5 4 11 8 45 yaQon was in the 46 8 40 40 19-9 4 15 centre of the Em- 48 59 14 51 24-4 3 51 bassy Baildings just 43 16 48 55 9-3 4 16 outside of and to 42 25 11 59 45-2 4 0 the north of the 41 45 4 11 8 18-2 4 25 YangiShahr or New Citj. 7th „ E. L. 49 1 18 48 7 59 11 24 3*1 28 46*8 5 3 59 4 10 1 47 2 24 84 87-8 3 56 5 4 10 4 45 46 28 50 88 2-3 4 19 45 7 4 44 521 4 20 44 27 80 48 23 3 4 21 48 83 28 53 12-9 4 7 42 51 23 56 580 4 5 27th „ W. L. 58 18 22 54 2 16 9 47 18-0 52 17-1 5 4 14 4 11 57 16 20 10 11 349 4 23 5 4 20 4 40 58 0 11 15 521 4 17 59 4 2 22 2-4 4 82 59 42 29 25 44*6 4 24 28th ,, W. L. 46 56 88 47 48 14 10 25 84*8 30 10*9 5 4 42 4 34 48 83 80 85 5 8 4 28 5 4 86 5 15 49 48 0 41 48*7 4 41 50 17 58 45 10-8 4 40 51 17 43 50 52-7 4 86 51 58 54 54 18-5 4 42 52 45 57 59 18-6 4 36 s 53 23 12 11 2 44*2 4 28 . 54 25 40 8 34-2 4 84 29th Jan. E. U. 42 31 24 6 83 49-5 5 4 41 1874. 41 49 83 41 1 42 40 14 84 87 32 2 41 460 45 571 4 36 4 48 4 41 5 4 47 3 25 ■ 39 13 27 51 22-2 4 44 a56 ( 332 ) Observations of Lunar Zenith Distances and resulting determination of Long. — (oontd.) * Astronomical date. Thb Moon. Mean of each pair of observed Z. Ds corrected fordislevelment. Mean of Chrono- meter Times. Resulting Longitude. ideresl ►bserv- Plaqi 0¥ Ob8EH« VATIOH. • • ^ a c^ o c O Value from each pair of observa- tions. Mean of each day's observations. 0 / tt S. j9£*. 8. KASHGHAR (Yangi- Shahr) — concluded. 29th Jan. 1874. E. U. 38 86 19 87 63 53 37 12 17 64 39-8 58 25 6 7 2 7-9 4 61 4 69 4 54 81st Jan. 1874. E. u. 42 21 6 41 89 0 8 81 25-7 35 12*4 5 4 44 4 24 E.M. 40 2 49 43 48-7 4 61 5 4 89 5 30 88 29 9 52 15 4 4 29 .87 54 22 55 23 6 4 34 86 86 42 9 2 251 4 50 l£. Jl£. S* • Arithmetical Mean of Long which is the value finally itude from adopted. six days' observations, 6 4 27 2 or O t f • 76 6 47-5 YARKAND Station of observation in the Embassy Quarters in the cen- tre of the Yangi- Shahr or New City. 1 8th Not. 1873. E. L. 64 59 57 58 48 30 53 7 19 52 21 38 51 84 9 11 10 360 16 54-7 20 88 2 24 851 28 44 9 5 8 30 8 80 8 36 8 48 9 13 S. M. S, 5 8 61 KM. 240 48 19 60 47 88 27 46 50 8 49 28-3 8 58 9 6 46 26 52 ^^ 44-5 9 8 45 80 28 12 0 41 2 9 0 Ditto 19 » W. U. 57 55 21 58 82 13 20 22 51-3 26 7-9 5 9 40 10 0 59 15 55 80 1-8 10 7 5 9 56 1150 60 10 58 84 58-4 9 50 60 47 88 88 15-6 9 55 61 29 87 42 22 9 52 62 16 88 46 16 0 10 4 68 29 22 52 50-8 9 59 ( 833 ) Observations of Lunar Zenith Distances and resulting determination of Long. — (concld.) The Moon. 1 o Resulting Lonoitudb. real erv- Astronomical date. Mean of each of observed Ds corrected dislevelment Mean of Chrc meter Timei » so Place of Obbeb- TATION. E. or W. of Meridian. Upper or Lower Limb. Value from each pair of observa- tions. Mean of each day's observations. Approx. si time of 0 ations. O 1 V JB[. JET. iS. S., Jx. S. fl. M. S. .xZ. ^Xi YARKAND 9th Nov. E. L. 38 17 7 13 36 28-9 5 8 52 Station of observation 1873. 37 25 58 40 58 1 9 11 in the Embassy 36 85 26 45 25-9 8 55 5 9 1 5 15 Quarters in the cen- 35 39 54 50 19-5 9 7 tre of the Tangi- 81 57 45 14 10 4 3 9 8 Shahr or New City. 31 6 19 30 6 53 14 41-2 20 29 9 2 8 50 1 29 11 7 25 58 9 1 Arithmetical mean of longitude from three days' observations* 5 9 or 16 o / 77 19 o / 0 II Final longitude adopted for Yarkand, vide body of Report 77 15 55 TASHKURGHAN... 31st March E. U. 61 44 7 1 7 27 42-3 , 5 2 16 H. M. S. Station of observation 1874. 60 37 23 33 511 2 4 about 300 yards to 59 59 7 37 24-3 1 44 5 1 86 8 15 the east of the Fort. 59 16 52 41 20-9 1 26 or 58 4 33 48 7-2 1 7 o / H 57 17 40 52 32-7 1 1 75 24 0 Which gives the Astronomical longitude from one night's observa- tions. O 1 N Final longitude adopted for Tashkurghan, vide body of Report ... 75 19 1 KILA PANJAH ... Station of observation 24th April W. L. 44 0 58 10 23 21-7 4 50 55 H. M. S. about 300 yards to 1874. 45 13 15 31 0-5 51 17 south of principal 46 15 41 34 53-5 51 7 4 51 2 18 0 Fort of Kila Panjah. 47 3 46 38 59 7 51 2 or 50 52 48 58 28-8 50 43 O f If 51 40 43 11 2 32 8 50 57 72 45 30 • 52 24 10 53 8 42 55 9 16 6 13-8 9 34*9 20 141 51 8 51 9 50 56 Which gives the Astronomical longitude from one night's observa- tions, f o / n Final longitude adopted for Kila Panjah, vide Geographical Chapter. 72 45 29 * Observations were also taken at Tarkand on three other nights, when the moon was so anfavorably litnated that these have not been employed. t Obflervations were made on another night at Kila Ftojah, but it appeared from the rwulting time eompntations that the chronometer employed had been going irregolarly. C 334 ) SPECIMEN COPY OF COMPUTATION OP ONE DAY'S Computation of Longitude fr At Kaahghar (Yangi-Shahr) Station, on { West of Meridian. Moon \ Lower Limb olMerred. S9 24 82 Aunmed Bif. No. No. of observiitioa (Mean of F.L. and F.R.) 1 2 3 (1) 10 47 55-2 10 62 81-8 10 67 26-2 (2) Correction _ 22 KI-4 22 204 22 204 (3) Lood Mean Time (Art. D.) = 28 d«j. + 10 25 848 10 80 10* 10 86 6-8 (4) Approi. Or Uean Time = fS) + £| = 28 dava + 5 20 34-8 6 25 10-9 6 80 5-8 (6) i 'a obaerved Zenith DiAtance ... = fo 46 56 38 47 43 14 48 88 80 (8) Refraction (for B and T) = r ... = + 67 69 1 0 P) (C 'e Semi-diameter at (4) from N. A. = S ... 16 2 16 2 16 2 (8) From Table 1 ^8 ... _ 11 11 11 (9) (5) .► (6) + (7) + (8) = {. 46 41 22 47 28 0 48 18 17 (10) i 'a Horizonul Parallax at (4) from N. A. = « + 68 46 68 44 68 44 (11) From Table 11 A ■■ + 5 6 6 (12) Log. n • = log. (I + A ')• 8-54777 3-54765 8-54765 (IS) Log. ain in {, )• 8-40969 3-41505 8-42079 115) TiainC 42 49 43 20 48 55 5 46 68 88 46 44 40 47 34 22 11 67 8- 11 58 15 11 59 27 + 15 15 15 11 67 28 11 58 30 11 69 42 27 27 9 27 26 2 27 24 60 73 25 42 74 10 42 74 69 12 18 31 24 19 18 38 20 9 32 83 42 61 87 6 21 37 29 86 - 0 16 42 9 89 19 10 4 46 1-7765729 1-7803685 1-7843813 12066736 1-2246847 1-2480716 0-1120256 01120258 0-1120266 0^)096255 00095554 00095876 T1047975 11265242 T-1490661 T-6623988 15682621 16745381 41 48 18 42 54 66 44 6 8 18 28 6-8 18 28 68 18 28 6-8 10 25 848 10 30 10-9 10 35 6-8 (M) Aooeleration for (4) ... 627 63-4 642 (85) = 9 , 4 64 88-8 4 68 10-1 6 4 5-8 (36) t (in time) dednoed from (31) ... + 2 47 13-2 2 51 39-7 2 53 245 (37) d 'b Bight Aeoenaion or AB = 0 - « 2 7 201 2 7 804 2 7 41-3 (38) Greenwich Mean Time for (37) from N. A. ... 6 21 1-1 6 25 47-8 6 80 61-2 (89) (38) - (88) = Approx. Long. = Z, _ 6 4 837 5 4 281 6 4 14-6 (40) (89) - ia =J:i - i. + 26-8 368 46-4 (41) At (8S) change in d 'a A E for incremeot of 1» = V + 2-156 2156 2-166 (42) Do. Do. Decn. Do. = «• + 14-621 14-615 14609 (48) Log eo. , (aee (27) ) l-88tjO 1-8880 1-8880 ■ (44) Log Bn ( (a«i (81) ) T8289 T-8331 18426 (46) Log. coaee {i (aee (16) ) 014S2 01377 ai819 ( 336 ) OBSBEVATIONS FOR LONGITUDE AT KASHGHAR. cm Lunar Zenith Distances. 28th December 1873 (Oiml Date, p.m. ) LoDg. E. = ii = — 76 15 5A. 5«i. in time Barometer = B Thermometer = T 25*6 Inches. 18° (Fahrenheit.) 11 10 5 4 22 41 36 91 20-4 48-7 48-7 49 43 1 16 49 27 0 3 2 11 50 58 44 5 354765 T-88081 3*42846 44 42 76 21 38 10 6 19 3 39 20 56 10 58 11 10 5 7 22 45 40 30-7 20-4 10-3 10-3 50 17 1 16 50 58 4 2 11 49 58 44 5 3-54765 T-88455 3 43220 45 5 48 43 8 49 17 44 12 12 1 1 5 16 20 12 12 1 2 55 15 10 27 23 12 27 22 22 T -7898535 T-2673721 01120256 00096314 T-1788826 T-58944I3 45 43 41 18 10 5 3 2 5 5 28 41 10 2 7 37 4 5-8 48-7 553 49*8 54-7 551 15-4 33*3 26-7 76 21 38 10 40 56 20 57 6 22 3 41 [7925646 T -2790906 0-3 120256 00096539 T-1933346 T 5966673 46 32 24 2156 14-603 r-8880 T-8549 01241 18 28 10 45 5 14 3 6 2 8 5 40 5 4 5-8 10-3 559 120 9-6 2-4 38-6 317 28-3 2156 14 598 I -8880 T-8608 0-1203 6 11 10 5 13 22 50 45 131 20-4 52-7 527 51 51 17 1 16 2 58 43 5 2 10 36 44 5 3-54765 T-89077 3-43842 45 44 50 16 52 12 3 18 15 12 3 33 27 20 59 77 37 51 22 55 53 38 48 66 11 27 57 11 10 6 16 22 54 49 38-9 20-4 18-5 385 51 53 1 16 61 38 58 54 8 2 10 50 44 5 3-54765 T-89443 3-44208 46 7 T-7971396 r-2983804 01120256 00096912 T-2172368 T-6086184 47 55 6 18 10 5 3 2 5 5 28 50 19 11 8 46 4 50 52 43 12 4 7 15 12 4 22 27 20 10 78 12 53 23 32 33 39 6 27 11 46 17 T-7998761 T-3096455 01120256 0-0097132 T2312604 T 6156302 48 44 55 58 52-7 56-8 55 3 40-4 149 26 6 261 339 2-156 14-593 18 10 5 3 2 5 5 28 54 23 14 8 49 4 5-8 18-5 57-4 217 59-7 22 0 442 343 25-7 2156 14-588 T-8880 T-8705 0-1140 1-8880 T-8761 0-1102 11 10 5 8 21 22 59 54 340 204 13-6 13-6 52 45 1 16 52 30 57 10 2 10 55 58 44 5 3-54765 r-89956 3-44721 46 40 51 44 15 12 5 19 16 12 5 34 27 18 58 79 24 39 12 3 25 31 12 13 17 37 39 T -8037582 T 3253301 0-1120256 00097457 T-2508596 T -6254298 49 56 11 18 10 5 3 2 5 5 28 59 28 19 8 54 4 5-8 13 6 582 17-6 447 32-9 47-7 259 341 2-157 14583 1-8880 T8838 01050 9 11 11 5 25 22 2 57 4-6 204 44-2 44-2 53 23 1 16 53 8 12 12 2 10 12 58 44 5 3 54765 T 90313 3 45078 47 3 52 21 12 12 6 6 10 15 25 27 18 79 39 16 25 3 2 39 49 38 12 31 31 I 8065019 T-3362001 01120256 00097687 T2644963 T -15322482 50 46 55 18 11 5 3 2 5 5 28 2 31 23 8 58 4 58 442 58-8 48-8 7-7 41-1 359 8-3 517 2157 14-578 1 -88^0 T8892 01014 067 10 11 11 6 30 22 8 3 54-6 204 34-2 842 54 25 40 1 14 16 2 10 54 10 42 58 44 5 354765 T90894 3-45659 47 41 53 23 1 12 12 7 36 15 7 51 27 16 41 80 26 40 13 39 42 6 20 19 51 3 10 1-8110386 T-3538172 01120256 0-0098076 T 2866890 T6433445 52 11 38 18 11 5 3 2 6 5 28 8 37 28 8 4 4 58 34-2 59-7 39.7 46-5 53-2 102 24-0 360 2 157 14-572 1-8880 T'8977 00955 ( 336 ) SPECIMEN COPY OF COMPUTATION OP ONE DAY'S Computation of Longitude At Kaahghar (Yangi-ShahrJ Station, on ( West of Meridian. Moon < Lower Limb obserred. Lat. N. = ^ = 39 24 82 AsBamed Kef. No. (46) (47) (48) (49) (50) (51) (52) (53) (54) (55) (56) No. of observatiou (Mean of F. L. and F. R.) (43) -h (44) -h (46) = Log. sin g' Log. tan q from (46) Log. cos li (see (28) ) Log. X (see (41) ) Log. 15 Log. sum = (47) -h (48) + (49) -h (50) ... Log. /3 (52) - (51) = log. a (see Table IV.) ... -h 1 + a + T-8561 00114 T-9905 0-3334 11761 1-5114 11650 T-6536 1-450 2 18«. 5h. 4m. 42«. T8588 00190 T-9904 0-3334 11761 1-5189 11648 T-6459 1-442 268. 4m. 34«. T-8625 00269 T-0904 0-8336 11761 1-5270 11646 T-6376 1-484 4m. 2S9. Explanation of Symbols adopted, Ast. D. stands for Astronomical Date. Gr: do. Greenwich. 8. T. do. Sidereal Time. N. A. do. Nautical Almanac. Approx: do. Approximate. Euleg for Computation. Compute I for each observation, ».«., for Nos. 1, 2, 3 ... 8. Do. A3 ) Do. 8 [ for middle observatioa, and adopt this value as constant for all the other observations. Do. Aw ) Do. IT and A^for No. 1 and No. 8, and interpolate for Nos. 2 to 6 with change in Gr. Mean Time for argument. NoTK.— ^ and A/S have the same sign and are both i±= when ?BP??limb of (f is observed • AS is -4- lower >*.**« -r in N. Latitude ; ^ is i±= if ([ is —of Meridian ; X is always + ; /3 is =±= when ([ is moving in Declination from ~ -^ : sign of a = sign of /3 x sign of t, ^. to b. ( 337 ) OBSERVATIONS FOR LONGITUDE AT ILk&liG^kR.— (Continued.) from Lunar Zenith Distances. 2S>th December 1873 CCivil Date, p.m. J Long. E. = Xi = — 76 15 5A. 5m. ID time Barometer Thermometer = B = T = 25*6 Inches. = 18° (Fahrenheit.) 4 5 • 6 7 T-8743 1 8 9 10 T-8670 T'8691 T-8726 1-8768 T-8786 1-8812 00366 0 0412 0 0488 00528 0-0686 0-0627 00689 T.9904 T'9903 T9903 T-9903 1-9903 T-9902 T-9902 03336 03336 03.336 03336 0-3339 0-3339 03339 11761 11761 11761 11761 11761 11761 1-1761 1-5367 1-5412 15488 1-5528 1-5589 1-5629 1-5691 11644 11643 11641 11640 1-1638 11637 1-1686 T6277 1-6231 T-6153 T6112 16049 T-6008 T5944 1-424 1-420 1-412 1409 1-403 1399 1-393 19«. 20«. 24tf. 18«. 24«. 37« 26«. 4m. 41#. 4m. 40«. 4m. 36#. 4m. 42«. 4m. 86«. 4m. 239. 4m. 34«. Mean resulting longitude from observations on 28th December 1873 — 5&. 4m. 36^. or 76° 9' 0''. Table used to facilitate the computation. Table I iot A 8 Table II for A v 1 Iable III for A 3 : = T> (1-/) Horizontal semi- • 4> Equatorial 7) l^s g diameter. Parallax. j^ •Ad I / 14' 0" 17' or 63' 61' • It 0 tf tf 0 v f 53' 61' 0 12-7 18-8 0 O'O 0-0 M 10 125 18 6 10 03 V V 0-4 o It n O 20 120 17-7 20 1-2 14 0 00 00 0 •00 30 11-0 16-3 30 2-7 31 5 18 21 6 •00 40 97 144 40 44 51 10 37 4-2 10 •02 50 8-2 121 50 62 72 15 55 63 15 -03 60 64 95 60 80 92 20 7-2 83 ?0 •06 70 4*4 65 70 9-4 10-8 25 8-9 10-3 25 -09 80 23 3-4 80 90 103 11-9 1 30 10-6 121 30 •13 90 01 0-2 10 6 ^^^11 36 40 12-1 13 6 14 9 13 9 156 17 2 aDVr 45 Example. ^ =30°'5' 50 16 2 18 6 X =56'-7, I - T From Tables Z)= ir-5 -/2>= - 1-2 A a =10 GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX, SECTION C. 058 ( 340 ) ABSTRACT OP OBSERV Observations on road Jrom IiEH to TAB !3 At Statios ReadiDg of Place of ObBervatioD. Date. Obaerrer. barometer oi p boiling point corrected fori 1 index error. ■ iMthtt orDegreet. 1 Chimraj Tilla^ 13tb Sept. 1873 ... Capt. Trotter... 19-840W 2 Zingral Camp Uth » 16-776(« 8 Chang La (or SakU Pass) 15th ■ II 15-635W 4 TBuUak Tillage i6-68om 5 Tankse Tillage 16thA17thSept.l873 » :.': 18-650M « ChakrTalaoCamp 18tb Sept. 1873 ... 18-022H) 7 Lakone Tillage (on Paiigong Lake) ChigriCamp 19th A 20th Sept. 1873 „ 17-85im 8 2lBt Sept. 1873 ... n 17-217m 9 Laokar La (or Musimik Pub) 22nd 16-185W 10 BiradiCamp I '.'.'. 15-727W 11 PanizftI Camp 28rd 17-888W 12 Qogra Camp 24th " ■'■ 16-864(*t 18 n, rShummal Lang pa or Bhao * U ,i Cbanglung Burma Paw ... 26th Capt. Biddulph 15-897 14. 27fch I. 14696 15 ^.5 g , Niachu (Camp near) ■S ^ ^ 1 Lingzi Thuug plain (south aide of) ... I) 14-912 16 28th ,, 15-634 17 J%^ Lingjti Thung plain (camp on) ■^ * LSiimni Camp east of KiziljUga » 15 560 18 80th ", Z " 15-729 19 „ f Kotajilga Camp 26th Capt. Trotter 16-149« 20 S S Pangtung Camp .■| Pangtung or Chang Lung Pass £ a >: Sumsum Lung pa Camp 28th II 16-725f'> 21 n 14-806(" 22 29th „ ;;; » 15-714W 28 J^ ° -{ Dehra Compass Camp ^•oS Compass Wala's Pass ... 80th 11 15-809(1) 24 Ist Oct. 1873 ... A 16-180) 25 S T3 Earakash UiTer near Compass La ... „ 15-625'» 26 ^ S Shinglung, or Dunglung Camp « L Ditto 2na&3rd Oct. 1873!;; „ 15-8441« 18l-60("» 27 Kiziljilga Camp Ist, 2nd 16-0980) 28 Chungtash Camp 8th ., ... 16-786 nntaln b&roDctAT i ■ llie I*tta A. b ( 341 ) ATIONS FOB HEIGHT. • 1 / ■«« -^^vvwvvar- \m ^^ m ^^^ » ^ V « ^ ■*^- ^^W9 ^ « — o OF Obbebyatioit. At Base Station LEH.* ght abov evel. o •, o . Cm o ^ O 1 ratare rcury enheii 9 a 53 £ Corrected reading of irature rcury euheit rature Pahrei eit). Bemarks. S,S.-c barometer* S ^r* s-r-^ 1 9 q S es 1 Cm S-5 s-3 Is H "" H H ^ H C3 Degrees. Degrees. IncJiee. Degrees. Degrees. Feet. 63 61 19-580 60 56 11,890 • 57 51 19580 60 66 15,780 . 43 31-3 19-617 58-3 64 17,590 By Captain Biddulph, 17,395 feet. 51 38 19-617 58 54 15,950 51 48 19-617 58 54 12,900 61 58 19-617 58 54 13,890 56 55 19-617 58 54 14,130 523 48-8 19-617 68-3 54 15,090 4.5 25 19-617 68.3 54 18,420 By Captain Biddulph, 18^30 feet. 41 42 19617 58 54 17^00 58 54 19-569 56 52 14,790 • 47-3 45*5 19-669 56-3 54 16,570 • • •• 48-2 19-424 • • • 57-6 17,020 • • • 32 19-478 *• • 56-6 19^280 • V • 85-3 19-396 • •• 57-8 18,630 • « • 333 19522 • •• 56-3 17,680 • • • 29-0 19-522 • • • 56-3 17,610 « • • 22K) 19443 • • • 54*2 17,160 47 44 19569 66 52 16,730 24 22 19-569 66 52 17,250 » 33 26 19-569 66 52 18,910 32 28 19-669 66 52 17,330 21 15 19-669 66-3 493 17,890 • a > 23 19 537 49 40-6 18,169 83 30 19-672 49 40-6 17,440 25 • • • 25 18 19-572 19637 49 49 40*6 40-6 37,030 17,030 X Mean height ^ 17,030 feet. • • • 26-5 19-508 • • • 43-1 16,590 87-8 19-659 ■ • • 43-5 15,690 attached, in which case an ax leroid barometer ha a been naed; wl lien given in de grtMs the figoies i ire the ooprected meuu of hypiometiical readingi in determining the height. * The height of the obserrmtory at Leh is taken as 11,638 feet above sea lereL ( 842 ) Observations on road from LES to YAB At SiATioir Reading of Place of Observation. Date. Obserrer. barometer or boiling point thermometei corrected foi index error. AcAm orI>e^nei. ih BXver, Captain Biddalph's Camp ©th Oct. 1878 Oapt-Biddulph 16-898 tto ditto 10th 17-238 tto ditto 11th ... 17-450 tto ditto 12th ... 17-656 tto ditto (Sora) ... 13th ... 17-796 tto ditto l*th ... 18-036 tto ditto 15th 18-876 tto ditto 18th 18-491 Camp 18th Capt."Trotter"" Jf& em 17th Capt. Biddulpb 18-804 17th A 18th Oct. 1873 Capt. Trotter 19-057W ft Camp ... to 10th Oct. 1873 ... Capt. Trotter 168220) 182-75W hill above Camp ... " " •■• „ A. 15-35(11 b Pass ... ^ lith I ... 180-80(») hLake ... 182-15W let 18th " ... ... 16-671W Hill I5th " ■■' A 15-86t» 16th 15-899(1) [ill A 15-86(U !amp ... '.". ". 17th ", ... „ 18-67fiO> 21>t „ 19-477(») 22nd „ 18-290W : Grim Paae) 23rd „ ... 18-106(» 25th „ 21-700<" 28ttk 24-010«> Uage ... 2nd Not. 1878 ... 24-426(1) 4th ■ ■'■ 24-866a) « ... 7th „ ... 26-9810) 11 6th „ 25-71H» Taogiahahr Deo. 1878 to March 187*.« 25-992 • ii* oteonUou at Ibkuti, bm bat ( 343 ) KAND y^ Chcmgchenmo and Shahidula. — (Concluded.) OF Obsebyation. C8 d fl u ^ 9 a> >^ ^ Degree*. 38 • • • 28 29 22 • • • 32 • • • 38 53 28 * « « 54 53 34 36 46-9 32 o d fa ® OS 08 ■?< Degrees, 300 42-9 45 36-5 340 47-4 436 43 36 41 215 29 31 31 30 26 • • • 20 13 20, 38 40 30 48 52 39 49 33 36 48 32*6 At Ba8B Station LEH. Corrected reading of barometer. Inches, 19-637 19-572 19-563 19-471 19-529 19-513 19490 19-453 19-616 19-512 19-616 19-655 19-619 19-619 19-620 19 620 19*655 19-583 19-615 19-583 19.615 19-615 19-616 19-558 19*584 19-558 19-666 19-666 19-666 19-666 19-439 o ^^ & S S 5 5: g-a-S Degrees. 47 « • « 47 49 49 49 48-5 48 5 48 5 47 46-5 47 47 465 47 43.6 44 43-6 40 40 40 401 24-6 o a a> *3 Degrees. 51.5 53-5 49*2 50-7 41*7 50-5 47*7 50*7 48-8 51-0 43*8 44 44 44 44 44 44 43'8 438 438 43-8 438 43-8 39-5 39-5 39-5 36 36 36 36-4 32 Besulting height above mean sea level. Remabes. Feet. 15,540 14,980 14,620 14,160 14,000 13,670 13,120 12,910 12,520 12,530 12,240 16,410 16,570 18,050 17,710 16,890 15,960 17,910 17,610 17,990 12,970 11,780 13,340 16,760 8,790 6,070 5,760 5,340 4,210 4,370 3^23 \ Mean height = 12,385 feet. I MeaA height = 16,490 feet. been employed ; and the ooiieepondiiig mean of the barometer during these same montha at Leh, a59 ( 844 ) Observations on road from LES to YAS, Date. Obwrrer. At STAnox lace of Observation. nil =>>-■« H U)0 -S ll-Pi M S a- -2 /«!*« orDegreei. 8lh Ottobet 1S73 ... NainSiig .. 16-4l9m 8lh H 17009™ 9th » 16 963™ np ... 12tb » 1606701 :Ba ... 18th „ 16-86«m »th April 1874 ... 21-636<» PaiB '.v. 1 Z lOth „ 1. 20-392™ ip ,.. nth » 21-325W 16th , „ » 16672™ 6th Novr. 1873 ... CaptaiD Trotter 28-711W 27th May 1874 203 66 25-286 2&th 20090 23-901 29th 20020 23 569 Paw ... l.t Jum 1874 ... 193- 19W ipon 2Qd 196-47 21799 2na „ . 196 82 21959 ip ... Std „ 195 32 21-277 8rd „ 193-67 20-647 8th " 185 72 17321 s 8th „ 183- low kaod Rirer 9th „ 188-62 18-44S unp ... 10th „ 187-92 18-168 >mp ... nth „ " 186 92 17779 12th „ 186-97 17415 ip 13th „ ... 184-67™ nth „ 18312 16362 Sn ... 16th ,. 181-72 16 867 ... 16th ... 179-82W .mp ... 17th „ " 181-92W ( 345 ) KAND Ti& Kc^akoram and Kngiar. or Obssbtation. At Base Station LEH. Besnlting height ahove mean sea level. ' Temperature of mercury (Fahrenheit). C»4 p fc. . J© s Eh Corrected reading of harometer. « o fl « ^ S a ^ « KSMABKB. Degrees, Degrees. Inches, Degrees. Degrees. Feet. 28 21 28 16 6 18 15 16 12 16 19-655 19-656 19655 19655 19-656 48-5 48-6 48-6 48-5 48-6 44 44 44 44 44 17,840 a 15,240 16,290 16,700 h 17,030 (? a Mean height = 17,820 feet. & Mean height = 16,790 do. c Do. ±=17,180 do. 4 3 3 2 4 • 7 7 0 8 69 45-3 35 30-5 18 48 69 19-589 19 589 19589 19575 19666 19-689 43-8 43*8 438 46 40-1 60 48-9 439 43-9 461 36-4 59-2 8,870 10,450 d 9,250 e 15,690/ 4,370 4,610 <; Mean height — 10,465 do. e Do. = 9,366 do. / Do. = 16,000 do. J Do. = 4,440 do. 60 19-689 • 60 59-2 6,150 78 19-689 60 59-2 6,460 • 66 56 19-587 19750 631 631 1 60.0 600 10,480 d 8,800 70 19-760 631 600 8,660 62 19750 631 600 9,4600 60 19-750 631 600 10,440 43 19-614 62-9 601 14,940 49 35 19 461 19614 629 629 601 601 16,310/ 13,210 35 19-614 629 60-1 13,620 60 19-614 629 601 14,250 49 19-614 629 601 14,810 40 42 19-451 19-614 629 62-9 601 60-1 16,330 16,490 40 19-628 61-4 67 9 17,330 c . 40 22 19-469 19-628 614 61-4 67-9 57-9 18,650 16,880 h ( 346 ) Ohservation on road from LEH to YAU o eS <2 OB a :3 Place of Observation. 82 Dipsang Col 83 Bruchse 84 Murghi 58 Sasser Pass 85 Ghanglung spar, top of 86 Ghanglung village 87 Panamik village 88 Shyok and Nubra Rivers (janotion of) 89 DigarLaPass Date. 17th June 1874 17th 18th 21st 22nd 22nd 23rd 28rd 27th 91 n Observer. Capt. Trotter... ») » 91 99 99 99 99 99 At Station ° ft- O a> 03 g « § & S g S g M S O h or Defect. A15-lia) 188-72W 186 02W 180-62W 184-97 17039 19282(1) 192-67 20071 192-72 20136 1804i2(<) ( 347 ) KAND yi& Karahortm and Kugiar. — Concluded. ov Obsebtatioit. At Babb Station LEH. Besulting height ahove mean sea level. Temperature of meroury (Fahrenheit^. Temperature of air (Fahren- heit). Corrected reading of harometer. Temperature of mercury (Fahrenheit). Temperature of air (Fahren- heit). Bemabes. Degrees, Degrees. Inohei. Degrees, Degrees. Feet. • •• • • • a * • • • . 42 42 55 36 27 19*628 19-469 19-469 19-469 19*586 61*4 61 61-4 61-4 690 67-9 579 67-9 579 66-6 18,450 15,920 15,190 17,800 a 15,310 • ■ . 52 78 19*418 19-586 690 690 666 66-6 10,760 10,840 . • • 60 19-586 690 66-6 10,760 • ... 50 19*413 690 66-6 17,930 a60 ( 348 ) Observations on road from YAMKANB to ace of ObseiratioD. lllli M 6 I tillage... ; Shahi Bnzau , back of tJlok Sbabi Eul ink of Keria Biver ... BaaKol k«) bank of) lO Camp... 12tli and 13th May KUhei 1874 14th Mar 1874 „ 16th „ 18th „ „ ,, 19th „ ,, J, 81st „ » „ 28rd „ 29th „ II 7th June ^ J, 8th „ ,, ^ 9th „ » « 11th „ 13th „ J, ,1 18th „ ^ ... , 22ud „ ^1 , 29th „ ji 1 Bth July ' IZth and 18th Jij'y 1874 15th Jdlv 1874 16th „ 18th and 19th Jniy J 1874 22nd Julv 23rd and 1874 1 24th July 1 1874. 26th July 1874 » 208-61W 204-0<»> 203'28ni 208-24m 203.03P) 50316C) 203-78O) 203'40(» 203-son> 208-80O) 208'00(U 203-46C> 202'67(" 19S'42(» 202-92l» 196-8aw 182-1(« 188-92W 182-261> 182-67(« 182'6SW 184'SOn) ( 349 ) LES v\k Khotan, Polu and Noh. OF Obbsbtatioit. At Babb Statiok LEH. Besulting O A o a £2 Corrected II height above mean sea Remabks. 1^ 1^- reading of l^f level npe erci nhe a. ft 2 barometer. 04 S ® s? a.ts ® ^82 |as Degreen. Degrees. Inehei, Degrees. Ret. •• • • 75-8 19-509 1 51-4 4,340 • • • 72-5 19-465 1 53-6 4,290 ••• 700 19465 p4 53-6 4,430 • • *• 72-6 19-496 J 51-9 4,500 a a Mean height = 4,490 feet. • •• 76-6 19-496 519 4,590 a • •• 80-2 19530 1 £3 600 4,480 a • • • 82-0 19-481 62-4 4,010 • • • 84*9 19502 m4 625 4,240 • « * 77-8 19586 •1^ 60-0 4,380 a • • • 67-8 19451 601 4,370 ■ • • 680 19-388 60^ .a 2 64*8 4,420 • • • 75-8 81-2 19-451 19-451 S.S. 601 601 4,260) 4,180 S Mean height = 4,220 feet. * * • 670 19-469 57-9 4,8305 5 Mean height = 4,575 feet. • ■ • 772 19-413 ;g^ 666 7,060 • *• 90-8 19-413 66-6 4,3205 ••• 700 19-477 •S ^ 65*4 8,430 • • • 45*0 19477 1 65-4 16,960 • •• 59-7 19-583 'fit 68-5 16,020 • • • 470 19*454 1 707 16,880 • • • 54-3 19*494 ■| 71-1 16,160 ■ • • 490 19-463 a< 65-8 16,620 ••* 418 19*463 658 16,600 ■ • •• 73-0 19-428 681 15,570 1 ( 360 ) Obaervatiotu on road from I V At Statio!m •0 i^ot^ ^.S g .5 P ^ o 8 Place of Observation. Date. Observer. ;§ S-S fee S S'9 S ^ IneheM or Degrees. 109 KokRob&t... • •• 28th Nov. 1878 Capt. Trotter 205-64(2)!, 205-64W^ 110 Kizil village • . ■ ^«7un II II ... n 111 Yangi Hissar town . « • 30th Nov.i Ist & 2nd Dec. 1878. n 204-71W 112 Yapchan village • •4 4th Dec. 1873 n 204-64(0 112 Ditto ... ... .., • * • 17th March 1874i ... 1873. n 204'33(» f 11th Dec., 3-30 f.h. 99 25-968 14th „ 9 A.M. 99 25-026 17th „ 9 „ 99 25-764 113 EASHGHAR (Tangi Shahr) * 18th „ 8 F.H. 99 25-680 21st „ 8 „ 99 25-971 26th ^ 8 „ 99 ••• 25-754 21st Jan., noon 99 25-816 W 8th Peb. 3 F.lc. 99 25-576 NoTS.-^The values given above 1 • ' as barometrical readings at E&shghar are actually the readings KA8H0HAB (Yangi Shabr) ■ . • Dec. 1873 to March 1874. Capt. Trotter Corrected mean reading. A. 25-880 Note. — This mean 1 reading of 25880 inches is obtained from the reduction of Observations on road from RA8S. lU Artysh Biver, bed of ■«« 31st Dec. 1873 Capt. Trotter A. 25-07a) 115 Besak village (Osten ArtyshJ ••• 31st „ and 1st Jan. 1874 1st and 2nd Jan. 99 ••• 203-330) 116 Chungterek, Kirghiz village ■ • • 99 ••• 19913W 117 Balghun Bashi Camp • • • drd Jan. ... 99 ••• 194-98(1) 117 Ditto ... ... 7th „ 99 ••• A. 2113(1) 118 Chakmak Port ■ a. 3rd „ ... 99 **■ 19618(1) 119 Turgat Bek Camp *• t 5th 1, 99 ••• 191-83(1) 119 Ditto Ditto . «• 6th „ 99 ■•• 192-03(«) 120 Turgat Pass • .•• 6th „ ... , 99 188-83(») ( 351 ) YABKAND to KASSGEAB. OF Obssbvatiov. At Bass Station L£H ob ^V-W k ^i^ ^r^m flr^ ^k ^ ^v^ o YABEUND. • d « €6 »4 a « d B a ^ ® H fci e-s:! H H H Eh C3 Decrees. Decrees, Ifiehes, Decrees. Decrees, JFS?^. M 47 19720 40 325 3,830 t 38 19-720 40 32-5 3,910 Mean height = 4,030 feet. 34 19-660 39 36 4,320 See Station No. 110, page 21. 4.2 19-547 ... 86 6 4,140 Mean height — 4,210 feet. 22 19 353 • ■ • 273 4,280 Base Station Tarkand 3,923 feet above sea level. 33 26100 43 39 4,056 1 26 26173 24 20 4,068 23 25196 23 20 4,074 47-6 25-837 52 50 4,088 Mean value deduced from Yarkand ' 4,060 feet. 32 26 089 34 32 4,041 33 25-950 36 33 4,123 33 25-923 30 31 4,032 1 39 25-648 41 40 3,997 J correspond!] Qg to the ( corrected mean of several boiling point observations. Base Station Leh 11,538 feet above sea level. • »• 33-8 19446 24-6 32-2 4,027 From Leh 4,027 M Prom Yarkand ... 4,060 Final value ... 4,043 feet. several hundreds of obsenrationa. GHAB to CEADYBKJIL. 28 26000 28 25-976 30 25-951 . • • 26 071 -8 26-199 10 19-449 -6 19-449 20 19449 12 19-449 22 22 • 21 21 20 19 4,860 20 5,290 19-5 7,000 19 9,180 1 9,230 5 19 16-6 8,830 16-6 11,160 \ 11,030 J 16-6 166 12,760 Mean height = 6-160 feet. Mean height = 9*205 feet. Mean height = 11090 feet. a61 ( 352 ) Observations on road from KASSGMAR TS At STATioir 1 • eS 6 5P6? u Place of Observation Date. Observer. •^*s fe © fe '^ X ^ S. Urn gQO §^ ^ B no -S fi ^ •" 9 Inehot ^ Degrees, 121 Bibi Miriam village 14th Feb. 1874 Capt. Trotter. A 25-84(2) 121 Ditto 22nd & 24th Feb. 1874 >» ••• A 25-52(4)1 122 Artysh Altyn village ... 15th & 16th „ » ... A 25-79(8> 122 Ditto Ditto n A 25-88 123 Besh Eerim village 26th Feb. 1874 w ••• A 25-57(1) 124 Kalti Ailak village ... \,. 24th & 25th Feb. 1874 » ... A 25-77(«) 124 Ditto Ist March 1874 »> ••• 204-72(2) 125 Bash Sogon Camp 19th & 20th Jan. 1874 n 200-63(2) 125 Ditto 19th & 20th Feb. 1874 » ... A 23 84(2) 126 Ayak Sogon Camp 2l8t Feb. 1874 »i A 24 97(1) 126 Ditto Ditto >i ••• 202-94 127 KyrBulakCamp 28th Feb. 1874 » ... 202-48 127 Ditto Ditto » * ••• 202-48 128 Jai Tupa Camp 22nd Feb. 1874 n A 2514(1) 129 Ui Bulak ... 23rd 9t ... 20012 129 Ditto 26th » 199-54(2) 130 Jigda Camp 23rd . « ••• 202-88(4) 130 Ditto ... ... '.'.■ ;;; 27th » ... 202-94(2) 181 Belowti Pass 24th n ••• 191-28(2) 131 I>itto -.. ... .".! !*.! 24th i> ••• 191-28 * The height of Kishghar Is taken 1 ( 353 ) to AKSV vi& JJah Turf an. At Babb Station LEH ob S OP Obshevatioit. KASHGHAR.' » fe ^ Cm o •s . rature rcury euheit] Temperature air (Fahren- heit^. Corrected reading irature rcury enheit] S a S S . b r-r. 4) ing hei an sea Remabkb. Tempe me (Fahr of barometer. Tempe me (Fahr Tempe air(] b Result me • Degrees, Degrees, Inches, Degrees, Degrees, Feet, 37 31 25-88 25 96 84 32 4,070 4,470 1 Mean height — 4,270 feet. 88 25-91 29 4,150 1 „ = 4,100 „ 33 19-386(LEH) 20-2 4,050 54 25-67 35 4,130 ■ 45 25 79 32 4,050 1 „ = 4,000 „ 20 25 913 41 39-4 8,950 8 19-460(LEH) 21-5 6,490 J „ 6,890 „ 29 2600 31 6,290 22 19 25 93 26 037 40 31 40-2 5,010 5,040 \ „ = 5,025 • 20 19-436(LEH) 27-2 5,380 j „ = 5,885 „ 20 25-92 34 6,290 24 26128 38 38-2 4,910 16 26 05 40 6,680 1 „ — 6,650 „ 16 25-811 44 42-8 6,620 26 19454(LEH) 22-2 6,190 J ,, = 5,095 „ 25 25-986 42 40-7 5,000 , 10 19'446(LEH) 22-9 11,430 1 „ -11,855 „ 10 25-88 38 11,280 u 4»013 feet above sea leTeL •43 a SZ« 132 133 134 135 136 137 138 ( 354 ) Place of ObseiTation. Faizabad town YaDgi Awat village Kashmir village Tojha Sulukh village Shujeh village Maralbashi town Charwagh village Observations on road from KASHGHAB Date. Observer. 1st Jan. 1874 2nd „ 3rd „ 4th „ 6th „ 8th „ 16th „ Capt. Biddulph n 19 AtStatiok mil 0-2:5 Sg Inches & Degrees. A2G-04 2610 26-37 26-45 26-60 26-56W 26-57 n f% >y » 139 139 140 140 Tangitar Kurghan Ditto Toghamati Ditto ... JPoints in neighbourhood 17th & 18th Feb. 18th Feb. 18th & 19th Feb. 19th Feb. • ■ * Capt. Trotter » » if A 24-31(5) 20204(2) A 24-05(3) 201-54(8) ( 355 ) to AKSTI vi^ Maralbaahi. OF Obsebvatiok. 2 g S Degrees* o a *» .^ "'^ S.t: Degrees. 28-6 285 22 24 263 27 24 At Basx Station KASHGHAB. Corrected readings of barometer. Inches. A 26-00 n n g 2 Degrees. <5 . •^a ^ ^ir Degrees, 28-5 28 22 24 26 27 24 Resulting height above mean sea level. Feet. 3,990 8,930 3,670 3,590 3,440 3,480 3,470 Bemabks. As these results mostly depend upon single readings of an Aneroid Baro- meter, they can only be looked upon as approximate. of KASEGEAB. 82 25-88 • • • 27 26-29 42 29 26-02 • • • 4 2614 336 33 89-7 33 33 5,670 6,790 6,090 5,860 1 Mean height = 5,730 feet. Mean height = 5,975 feet. a62 ■ <^ '^ * a =3 S5 148 149 150 152 153 154 155 ( 366 ) Observations on road from TANGISISSAH Place of Observation. Ighizyar village Aktala Camp Sasak Taka Cainp Kaskasu Pass Chehil Gumbftz Camp Turat Pads ... Past Bobat Camp 156 157 158 159 160 361 162 163 164 165 166 167 168 168 169 170 171 172 173 174 174A 175 176 177 Tarbashi Camp Chichiklik Plain (pass leading into) Balgbun Camp Cbusbman village TASHKUliGHAN, fort and town . Kanshubar Camp Neza Tasb Diwan (Pass) Kogachak Camp Unkul Camp Oikul, Kdz-kul or lake of Little Pamir, north side • Langar Camp Daraz Diwan Camp Sarhadd village Sarhadd village Baroghil Pass Patuch village Yur village Babatangi (Patur) village 2iUng village K ila Panjah (Wakhan) Langarkish village Yumkhana or Jangalik Camp Ditto ditto Yol Mazar Camp Bilaor Bas Camp Date. 22nd March 1874 23rd 25th 26th f> ft n if 27th 28th If 29th 3l8t 1st & 2nd April 1874 2nd 3rd >j 4th & 5th 6th 6th & 7th 7th & 8th 8th 9th » ff I Observer. At Station Capt. Trotter .. >9 ff W t» ff » » >l ff ft f1 9th & 10th 10th & 11th 11th & 12th 12th & 13th 13th, 14th,&25th„ ft ft ft ff Capt. Biddulph Capt. Trotter 27th 28th 28th & 29th 29th ff ft ft ft ft ft ft ft ft 7t ft 6 ^© 5; r t- fe 2 ^ TJ 5 ^'s Si O ^ '^ Inches Sf Degrees. 201-38(*) 198'19W A 20-92W 188-60(») 193 17W 18807(2) 19502W 191-24W 185 67(2) 192-72(«) 193 57(s) 193-27(2) 193-62(*) 188 64(*) 185-1«(2) 189 00(*) 188-62(*) 188*17(2) 189 39(*) 192 62(5) 192 67(2) 192 07(2) 192-59(*) 19319W 194-OOW 195 65(*) 195-67(«) 19517(2) 191-47(2) A 19-65(21 189*98(*) 188-65(2) ( 357 ) to PANJAE ( WAKHAN). ofObbkbvation. At Base Station YAKKAND. Resulting I 'o «4^ o , ^ ^ Cm 0 , rafcure rcury enheit] **2 -^ -^ Corrected readings of 0) . ^ i i s £ g heights above mean sea level. RSMABKS. 0< e ^*; 04 barometer. « 0 ft4 0/ s,ja g^;2 S-3 a ^ * 0) *eS H ^ H H ^ E-» Degree9, Degrees. IneheB. Degrees, Degrees. Feet. * 24 25736 • 48 48-5 6,580 a a Mean height = 6,600 feet. 30 25-736 48 48 5 7,350 h h Ditto — 7,345 „ 36 25-753 46 43-8 9,430 c tf Ditto = 9,455 „ 26 19-386 • • • 33-7 12,850 d d Ditto — 12,930 „ 14 19-386 • • • 337 10,310 # wm 16 19-3S6 * • • 33 7 13,130 25 . 19-386 • • < 337 9,280 h h Ditto = 9,870 „ AtBa 9e Station LEH, 17 19-395 376 337 11,370 e £ Ditto — 11,515 „ 20 19-395 37-5 33-7 14,480 * /# 25 19-395 375 33 7 10,540 10 19395 376 33-7 10,100 31 32 19-380 19-504 37-5 39-3 337 38-4 10,230/ 10,160/ /Ditto — 10,230 „ 34 19-504 393 384 12,980 25 19-486 39-3 38 4 14,930 y g Ditto — 14,915 „ 4 19-487 38-4 12,740 19 19-504 393 38-4 12,970 8 19-486 39-3 38.4 13,200 18 19-504 393 38-4 12,530 ' ' 29 19547 41-6 41-2 10,780 31 31 19-562 19-589 43-8 43-8 43 9 439 10,800 11,150 1 Ditto = 10,975 „ ■ • ■ Approximate. 12,000 28 19 589 43 8 43-9 10,850 30 19589 43-8 439 10,510 30 19-589 43-8 439 10,060 37 19589 43-8 43-9 9,110 f 37 19-562 43-8 439 9,090 43 19589 47-6 46 9 9,350 ^40 24 19 589 19-589 47-6 475 469 469 11,470 11,410 1 Ditto =5 11,440 „ 29 19-589 476 469 12,320 54 19-589 47 5 46 9 13,120 ( 358 ) Observations on road from YANGISISSAB labeti- • At Statiok ,a-^ 2?g^ "4 Place of Observation. Date. Observer. -•a o ^ fc o fe »;• 0) © O 00 O .2 1^ s 3 t I g fiU .S ft. C ^5 :2 6 g^S- 178 Mazar Tupa Camp 80th April 1874 ... Capt. Trotter 187-48W 179 Victoria Lake (or Lake of Qreat Pamir) Ist A 2nd May 1874 »f 18703W 180 Watershed on Qreat Pamir 2nd »> w 18652a> 181 Shash Tupa Camp 2nd & 3rd >» » 187 42« 182 Dahn-i-Isligh Camp drd 97 n 188 32a> 183 Aktasli Camp (on Aksa River) 5th & 6th n ff 189-42(31 184 Tagharma Plain 10th jf » A 20 42(1) 185 Nexa Tash Diwan 6th 99 •• • » ••• 185-52(*> 160 TASHKUttGHAN, fort and town ... 10th 99 99 193 42W 186 Balghun (Darschatt River) 19 » >f 190 02» 187 Kok Mainak Pass 12th }) ••• 91 ••• 184-17W 156 Tarbashi Idth I> •• • w ••• 19102W 155 Past Robat Camp 14th 9t ••• 99 194-87(» 152 Easkasu Pass 15th n *•* 99 ••• 18870(« 151 Kaskasu Camp if >t 99 192 22(« 150 Sasak Taka Camp 16th 99 99 194 82W 149 AktalaCamp 17th W 99 198-47W 148 Ighiz jar village 18th » 99 ... 201*42(2) 110 Kitil village 19th » 99 208 94(*> ( 359 ) to TANJAE PFAKSANJ. —{Conclniei.) oit Obsxbyation. o ^ S o a> 9 !a *i 0> (a Degrees, o -*2 ,— — ••• • • • • • • •• • • • • Degrees, 82 23 46 33 24 29 85 42 61 80 40 35 86 55 80 80 50 60 65 At Base Statioit LEH. Corrected readings of barometer. Inches. 19.556 19-524 19-524 19-524 19-561 19*524 19-548 19-524 19-508 19548 19*548 19-548 19-548 19-495 19587 19-537 19*495 19*495 19495 § I S S S M Degrees, 476 49-7 49-7 49-7 49-7 497 51-3 497 52-8 61-3 51-3 51-3 51-3 528 52-8 52-8 530 530 630 Degrees, 46.9 49-5 495 49-5 49-5 49*5 51-4 49-5 51-9 51-4 51-4 51-4 51-4 51-9 619 51-9 61-9 61-9 61-9 Besulting height above mean sea level. Ifeet, 13,760 13,950 14,320 13,760 13,220 12,600 10,310 14,900y 10,270/ 12,240 15,670 ll,660i? 9,460^ 13,010i 106,60 9,480(7 7,3405 6,610a 4,150 Behabes. a63 GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX SECTION D. ALPHABETICAL LIST or LATITUDES, LONGITUDES, & HEIGHTS. a64 Alphabetical List of Latitudes, ME OF PlACB. Latitude. Longitude. Height. . , . 0 . . Fe«t. •)PWB 1(^466 37 8 13 8,870 P 36 69 3 16,960 Ip 36 0 11 78 3 20 15,330 38 29 18 7346 37 36 13 33 U 64 74 S3 UfcJ 12.600 k of Keria river ... 36 29 64 16,020 AakvilWe) 39 36 60 6,160 4.860 4.100 p 40 0 6 76 40 32ftJ 6.026 )rilli«e 10.060 12.240 10,640 9,205 rakormPdu 35 24 26 12,000 6,390 40 40 20 11.366 tonArtyBh) 5.160 ILungPa n'BTiflsge 4.130 34 29 6 17,020 4270 13.120 37 37 19 6340 rillago... *240 35 4 61 15,920 34 4 69 16.090 40 5 9 8,830 oa«i north of Fort 40 8 2S U 34 " 4' 49 13,890 17,590 19,280 .u Camp 34 36 3 18,630 i^"" ::: 18.910 15.310 35 '66 43 36 "7"' 12 '.'..'..'. 10.760 3,470 17.910 !ftmp ... 10.310 (pau leaduig into) 37 *2' 54 14.480 11390 37 0 26 4,220 Camp 34 22 2ft 16,600 35 36 66 16.690 ihii village) 39 47 0 7.000 10.100 Pass ... 18,160 (0) denotes that the longitude hu been ( 363 ) Longitudes, and Seights. Eeference number. Namb op Place. • Latitude. Longitude. Heigbt. o / // O f ff Ihet. 182 Dahn>i-lsligh Camp 13,220 dOa Daktod Karpo Somdo ... 35 45 48 167 Daraz Diwan Camp 37 0 9 73 46 7fc) 10,780 61 Daulat Begnldi Camp ... 35 22 16 10,790 23 Debra Compass Camp ... 17,890 89 DigarLaPass 17,930 82 DiDsang Col Dol Langar village 18,460 97 4,420 73 Duba Camp 36 46' 34 10,440 26 Dnnglung (or Sbinglnng) 35 9 51 17,030 32 Dangnagu Camp 35 51 34 132 Faizabad town 39 29 35 76 46 lOfcJ 3,990 37 Potash Camp 12,620 41a Do. Pass 35 56 31 63a Fusar village 37 20 37 165 Gazkul (see Oikul) 13,200 • 102 Gbubolik Camp Giapchan Kizil 35 40 55 16,960 60a 35 17 54 486 Giazgia Camp 36 44 59 12 Gogra Camp Gmbashem Camp 34 21 4 16,570 38 36 17 28 12,385 90 Gnma village 37 37 31 4,340 148 Igbiz Tar village IshkaAhm 5,600 9,600 (Approximate.) 128 JaiTupaCamp 4,910 130 JigdaCamp 5,095 35 Jong Chidmo Camp 36 io 32 124 Ealti Ailak village 4,000 161 Kansbubar Camp 12,980 25 Karakasb Eiver near Compass La ... 17,440 94 Do. town 37 16 47 4,010 29 Do. river, Captain Biddulpb's Camp 15,640 30 Do. do. 14,980 31 Do. do. H620 32 Do. do. 14,160 33 Do. Sora do. 14,000 34 Do. " do. 13,670 35 Do. do. 13,120 36 Do. do. 12,910 62 Karakoram Brangsa 35 37 42 17,180 48a Do. Camp 36 37 30 81 Do. Pass 18,660 62a Do. Nain Sing's Camp near Pass 35 33 4 42 Karatagb Lake 16,890 41 Do. Pass 35 42 54 17,710 55 iLargbalik town 37 53 16 77 27 0 4,440 113 KASHGHAR— (Yangi-shabr) 39 24 26 76 6 47 4,043 deduced cbronometricallj from Kasbgbar. ( 364 ) Alphabetical List of N^ltX OF PuCB. Latitude. Longitnde. Height ° - o , . Feel. nil Tillage 3,670 nir Jilga Camp ... 36 14 64 1^260 "uCiSp 38 n 0 10,960 12.930 Biver at Baa Khiol 16,880 Town 36 n\ 26 ^676 vik or Do Sbamba Bazar 39 Id 42 'azLaugar TAF(City centre of) 37 37 7 47 36 79 69 0 4,490 BlongCamp 34 adftnCamp 3S 8 1 16,290 E^ah (wSban) '.'.'. 37 37 21 0 S 18 72 46 29(cJ 9,090 iizjangalCamp . iiz Camp near Kirghiz jangal ... 36 36 as 22 44 9 13,620 39 X"""^ ::: 3S 20 42 16,690 4.030 chakCamp 37 37 11 74 ee l&fej 12,740 MwnakPaM 16.670 Robat SH 1J« 6 3.830 34 26 16,730 midTfrn Yarkand River) 37 24 6,493 13,210 BuIakCamp 40 6 7 76 62 26^^; 6,336 IT Camp 12,630 arkiBt village w La (or Mariimik La) 9,360 18,420 d Thnng Plaia (Camp on) 11,638 M 47 64 •.i Thung Plain (south side of)... 17,680 Dg viUnge {on Pangong Lake)... 34 0 6 14,130 IbaahiTown 39 46 24 (78 11 20 3,480 imik I« (or Lankar Ia) 18,420 36 M) sa 9,366 rTupaCamp 37 53 73 34 4.1(eJ 13.760 village 4290 hi Camp 16,190 TaahDiwan 14,915 in {Camp near) ... 18,630 a or Lake of Little Pamir {Camp on north Bide) 37 U 27 74 19 40^e; 13,200 igrak village 1 AityBMBegak TillngB) 37 30 36 20 50 6,760 6.290 r Great, Lake ot see Victoria Lake 13,950 r LitUe, Lake of, gae Oi Knl ... 37 14 27 13.200 jJCamp mikTilJkge 14,790 37 47 10 10,840 tnng Camp ... ... ... tune or Cbnng Lung Pass khKila{Wakhan)... 17.260 18,910 37 0 18 73 46 29(eJ 9,090 to Chiohiklik Pl^ 14.480 RobatCamp 9,370 ( 366 ) JOatitudes, SfC. — (Continued.) Reference number. Namb of Piacb, Latitude. Lcmgitude. Heigbt. o / «r O 1 It Feet. 170 Patnch Tillage . 10,860 101 Patilr village 36 ii' 66 8,430 66 Poegiain village 38 11 64 4,210 10 BimdiCamp 17,600 60 1 Sanjn (or Grim Pass) ... 16,760 62 Sania village ' Sarnadd village 37 ii 17 6,070 168 10,976 78a Sasak Bulak 36 27 30 150 Sasak Taka Camp 9,465 68 Sasser La Pass 17,820 69 Sasser Polu Camp 36 2 43 16,240 48 Shahidalla (old fort and town) 36 24 67 11,780 181 Shash Tupa Camp 37 31 39 74 16 2Z(c) 13,760 . 26 Shin^lung (or Dunglung Camp) 17,030 39 Shoigilga Camp 36 4i' 2 16,490 40 ShoTjilga (top of liiU) ... 18,050 136 Shi^jeh village 3,440 13 Shnmmal Lnngpa or Bhao 17,020 88 Shvok Biver at junction with Nubra Biver Sirki Angar 10,760 49 13,340 71 Skatlicb Camp 8,660 33 Sora Camp Sorghak Ebiang Shahi ... ..% 36 i 9 14,000 100 36 39 61 7,060 47 SngetCamp 36 18 46 12,970 46 Sugetbili ... 17,990 46 SogetPass 36 9 63 17,610 108 Somji Ling Camp 34 1 18 16,670 18 Somna Camp east of lozil Jilga ... 36 16 39 17,160 22 3iimznm1nng Pa 34 41 10 17,330 Tagbarma or Moztagh Peak 38 36 16 76 22 47 26,360 184 Tagharma Plain 10,310 61 Tam village Tangitar Kurgban JLttUlkD ••• •■• •■• ••• 36 62 4 8,790 139 39 66 46 6,730 6 12,900 166 Tarbasbi Camp TASHKUBGHAN Fort and Town 38 6 8 11,616 160 37 46 49 76 19 1(c) 10,230 106 Tasbliak Kul (bank of Lake) 34 38 64 16,620 73a Tesbektasb 36 44 18 70 Tiznaf Biver (Camp on) 8,800 136 Tojba Sulukb village 3,690 4 Tsnltak village 16,960 140 Tugbamati 40 1 62 6,976 173 Tung village ... Tupa or Akkorum Diwan 9,110 64 10,466 766 Tupa Diwan Camp 36 24 24 164 TuratPass 13,130 119 Turgat Bela C!amp 40 23 63 11,090 120 TurgatPass 12,760 hU TutialakCamp 36 0 17 74 • Ucb Ugbaz or Cbiragbsaldi 14,940 129 Ui Bulak 40 26 14 77 36 47 (c; 6,660 164 UnkulCamp 12,970 a65 ( 366 ) Alphabetical List of Beferenoe number. Naxb of Place. 179 80 180 133 66 111 112 Yictoria Lake, or Lake of Great Pamir (West end) Wahabjflga Camp ^ ••• Wamar Fort (Jonction of Murgbabi Kiver) ... ... Water-sned on Great Pamir • Yangi Awat village Yangi Diwan Pass Yangi Hissar Town Yapdian village and Paiga ... • • • ••• Latitade. o t n 87 27 0 38 66 8 89 13 31 Longitude. o / * 78 40 38 76 12 65 Heigbt. 13,d50 16,4d0 (Appe.) 7,600 14,320 3,930 16,000 4^320 4^0 ( 367 ) Jjatitudea, SfC. — (Concluded.) Beference number. Nams of Place. Latitude. Longitude. Height. 67 106 68 176 176 171 96 2 92 YABEAND (Yangi-shahr) Yeshil Enl (Lake) Yolarik... Yol Mazar CaxQjp Yumkhana or Jangalik Camp Yur village Ynnmgkash town Zingral Camp Zawa Eurghan 0 r V 38 26 1 37 '27' 6 37 18 7 0 / // 77 16 66 73 "*6' 49(c) Feet, 3,923 16,160 6,160 12,320 11,440 10,610 4|,370 16,780 4^430 ■PBS^^^Raam GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. SECTION E. MAQNETIC OBSERVA.TIONS 066 ( 370 ) MAGNETIC Abstract of results of observations taken by Captain S. Trotter^ R.E., Date of observation. Affboxihate. Station of observatioii. North Tjatitude. Longitude east of Greenwich. Height above sea level 1873. o 1 o / Feet, Ist and 3rd September 34 10 77 37 11,640 1 ChagraCamp... 2l8t September 34 6 78 30 16,090 M Chang Tash Camp Saiga Tillage 8th October Ist November 35 37 37 11 78 40 78 31 16,690 6,070 11 Oi Toghrak village 3rd „ 37 30 78 3 6,760 Ksu^halik town 6th 37- 63 77 41 4,370 .§ YARKUND (Yangi-shahr) 27th 38 26 77 16 3,923 1 Yangi HlBsar town let December 38 66 76 13 4,320 Yapchan village 3rd „ 39 14 76 7 4,210 J:ASHGHAR (Yangi-sbalir) 4th and 19th Decem- ber and 13th Febru- 39 24 76 7 4,043 ary 1874. Ui T^nlak. (On road to Ush Tarian and Aksn) 25thFebmary 40 26 77 36 6,660 S^ righizyar 18th May... 38 40 76 12 6,600 n road frc KASHGHAR WAKHAN. TASHKURGHAN 3l8t March 37 47 76 29 10,230 Aktash Yol Mazar Camp 6th May ... 28th April 37 37 36 18 74 64 73 6 12,600 12,320 o ^Panjah (Wakhan) 18th ,) ..• 37 0 72 46 9,090 The observations for Magnetic Dip were taken with Dip Circle No. 2 by Barrow (belongi^ to the Great " Admiralty Manual of Scientific Enquiry. The rules laid down therein were rigorously adhered to. The observations for declination were taken with the 6-inch Transit Theodolite (by Troughton and Simms). parisons at Dehra and at Leh, both before the start and after the return of the Mission, proved that no sensible ( 371 ) OBSERVATIONS. for Magnetic Inclination (Dip} and Declination (yariationj 1873-74. Magnetic Dip north. Magnetic TariatioD east. liBU^BKS. 47 21-6 3 43 Frtan otserrationB to San. (Two seta.) (Mean of two Beta.) 47 22 7 3 66 3 61 432 Ditto ditto. "g| g^jj Ditto ditto. Ili^ |"8s mtto ditto. i S ' ^ ' ' ' 4 32 463 63 8-0 4 68 Ditto ditto. o-S S (Mean of two Bete.) 1"^ 1 -^ 4 67 4 55 Ditto ditto. &J :|[_ - .S Dftto dilfc,. Jl * '^l 54 31-7 5 I Ditto ditto and to San. (Fonr seta.) -S;!* ^ "'1 "l .a 8° 6^ 420 Prom obeerrations to Snn. ^ . ■ o 62 3-3 434 424 From observation to Son A X^ ^-^t mtto toPolaris ditto. E§^t2-|^ |.a9sB3 Ditto mtto ditto. O H 4 12 4 IS IVigonometrical Smrej Department). The method of obBervation was tliat recommended bjr General Sabine in the The needle attached to the matmment was ro-magnctixed ^rior to the departure of the expedition Irom India, and com- dieplacement had taken place in the portion of its magnetic pole. ttHMO* GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. K3 SECTION F. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. a67 ( 374 ) Meteorological Observations recorded hy the Great Trigonometrical Mercurial Baro- Beading of Tempebatubb of Air. Date. meter No. 720 corrected for Temperature of mercury. aneroid barometer Solomon's un- index error. corrected. Dry Bulb. Wet Bulb. Inches, Decrees. Inches, Degrees, Degrees. Nov. 12th, 1873,9 a.m. .. 26 112 46 26-46 42 385 Noon 107 56 •46 52 47-6 3 P.M. .. 077 50 •43 48-5 44-6 6 „ .. 007 4-66 •46 45 41 9 „ .. 007 44-5 •47 42 39-6 „ 13th ,, «/ A.M. 132 44 •61 42 385 Noon 127 65 •49 46 39 3 P.M. .. •077 49-5 •44 48 44 6 „ .. ■087 45 •46 46 41 9 „ .. •087 42 •46 41 38 ,, Uth „ 9 a.m. .. 147 44 •62 42 39 Noon .. 127 62 •48 48 46 3 P.M. .. ■087 47-5 •46 46 42 6 „ .. 092 46 •46 44 39-5 9 „ .. 125 42 •60 40^8 36-6 „ 16th „ »7 A.M. 157 48-5 •54 410 370 Noon 167 680 •53 48 41 3 p.m. .. 142 61-6 •62 48-5 40 6 „ .. 197 49*5 • -66 43 36 9 „ .. 237 47-5 •61 38 32 „ 16th „ <7 A.M. 282 47-5 •68 36 33 Noon 277 600 •66 463 38-8 3 p.m. .. 227 65-8 •62 60-5 43 6 „ .. 207 48 •63 46 ' 41-3 9 „ .. '237 43*5 •66 42 37 ,. 17tb „ 9 A.M. .. 187 44*6 •61 38 34 Noon .. 157 46-6 66 42 37-6 3 P.M. .. 107 48 •62 466 39 6 „ .. 117 46 •61 40 36 9 „ .. 037 41-6 •64 38 33 „ 18th 1, <7 A.M* 187 43 •69 39 36 Noon 197 556 •66 47 40-3 3 pm. .. 157 61-5 •66 486 41 6 „ .. X37 47 •66 42^6 37 9 „ .. 207 43 •68 39 34 „ 19ih jf •/ A.M. 207 44 •63 36-5 84 Noon 192 67 •69 466 41 3 P.X. .. 162 63*6 •66 49-6 42 6 „ .. 137 47-0 •69 45 39 » „ .. 187 460 •60 40-6 36 „ 20th „ Noon 217 66'6 •61 47-6 42 3 F.H. .. 187 61-0 •67 46 39 6 „ .. 197 450 •69 46 39 9 „ .. 197 440 •60 41 37 „ 2l8t jy V A.M. '237 460 ^^ 38 ' 32-6 Noon .. 227 47*5 •63 47 48-6 3 F.M. .. 197 52-0 •61 61 44 6 „ .. ■197 48*0 •62 42-6 38 9 „ .. •217 43*0 •64 39 34 „ 22Dd ,y V A.M. •167 44*0 •68 41 36 Noon .. •127 66-6 •65 60 45 ( 375 ) Survey Fandits at TABKAND during the tmnter of 1873-74. MlNIUUM IH SHADS. Maximum is shape. During preceding 24 hours. Decrees, Degrees. Direction of wind. W. W. w. N. K. W. N.W. W. E. S.W. w. 8. N. 8. E. E. N.E. 8. E. N. 8. 8. N. E. W. N. N. W. E. E.- 8. E. W. N. £. 8. E. 8. E. 8. W. 8. 8. N. 8. N. N. Remabks. At Yarkand the thermometers were placed in a court- yard— in the open — against a wall and at a height of five feet above the ground. The wall fiioed north, and the sun's rays never fell on or near it. The aneroid barometer was also suspended against the same wall. The mercurial barometer was placed in complete shade, in a porch which opened towards ilie north. On the 20th, 21st, and 22nd of every month continuous hourly observations were taken extendmg over a period of 48 hours, ».«., from noon on the 20th up to noon on the 22nd of each month. These observations having been reduced to diagrams, vide body of Report, it has not been thought necessary to reproduce them here. The thermometers were all graduated on Fahrenheit's scale. ( 376 ) Meteorological Observations recorded by the Great Trigonometrical Survey • Mercurial Baro- Beading of TXMPBBATUBB OP Al£. Datx. meter No. 720 corrected for Temperature of mercury. aneroid barometer Solomon's un- A/J&A^« index error. corrected. Dry Bulb. Wet Bnlb. InckeM. Degrees, Inckee, Degrees, Degreee, Nov. 22nd, 1873, 8 p.m. .. 26*087 530 26*50 52 46 6 „ .. •087 52-5 50 46 41 9 „ .. •107 490 •53 42 38 „ 23rd „ 9a.h. .. •127 470 •55 40 37 Noon .. •117 60-0 •51 53 46 3 P.M. .. •047 57-0 *46 57 49 6 „ .. •037 50K) •45 48 42 9 „ .. •047 470 •49 44 40 „ 24th „ 9a.h. .. •047 43*0 50 423 38 Noon .. •037 58*0 •45 52 46 3 P.M. .. •002 63-0 *38 53*5 46 6 „ .. 25962 510 •37 44*5 39 9 „ .. •952 45*0 •38 40 36 „ 26Ui „ 9a.h. .. •922 43*0 •35 34 31 Noon .. •932 55 •31 46*5 41 • 3 P.H. .. •882 52 30 51 43 6 „ .. •902 49 •30 45 40 9 „ .. •942 45 •34 39 34-5 „ 26th M 9 a.m. .. •902 45*5 32 39 36 Noon .. -922 58 31 45 41 3 P.H. .. •952 54 •32 49 44 6 „ .. •952 50-5 •37 44 40-5 9 „ ... •972 45 •40 37*5 34 „ 27th „ 9a.h. .. 26122 45*5 •52 36 34 Noon .. •102 57 50 49 43-3 3 P.H. .. •092 53 •49 52 44 „ 28th „ Noon .. •422 43 •04 40 33 3 P.H. .. m 48 •02 45 37 6 „ .. *442 42 •06 36 32 9 „ .. •452 37 •09 31*5 27-5 „ 29th „ 9 a.m. .. •402 28 •03 26 23 Noon . -322 35 25*96 33 29 3 P.M. .. •272 37 •87 34 31 6 „ .. •222 35*5 •85 28 24 1 ^^., 9 „ •212 35 •84 25 22 „ dOth „ 9 a.m. .. •102 27*5 •75 24 24 Noon .. •052 37*5 •65 36 33 3 P.M. .. •002 39-0 ei^ 36 32 6 „ .. 25-997 37 62 30 27 9 „ .. 26*042 33 •66 26 25 ( 377 ) Fandita at YABKAND during the winter 0/ 1873-74.— (Continued.) Minimum in bhabb. Maximum in shade. During preceding 24 hours. Degrees. 33-5 Degrees. 16-6 14 42*5 44 34-8 Direction of wind. E. W. S. N. K. £. S.' W. £. W. 8. N. N. W. W. 8. N. N. S. w. E. N. N. W. W. N.E. N. N. E. S. E. W. 8. S.W. w. E. N. Eemabks. ^or the month of November 1873. 9 A.M. Noon. 3 P.M. 6 p.m. 9 p.m. Mean of Mercurial barometer No. 720 corrected to 32""... 26143 26149 26116 26109 26126 Mean of Dry Bulb Thermometer ... 37*4 45*9 48'0 42'2 381 Mean of Wet Bulb Thermometer ... 34*2 40*6 41*6 37*4 34*1 a68 C 378 ) Meteorological Observatiom recorded by the Great Trigonometrical MeTcmial Baro- Beadin of TBMPBBAnrM OF AlB. 1 meter No. 720 omrected for mercnrj, Solomon' ometei index error. correct ed*"" DiyBolb. WetBnIb. Incket. DtgrMM. Inche DeyreeM. Ikgreet. 26-022 26 26 66' 22 21 ■062 34-6 68 34 31 ■042 39-6 63 37 33 ■042 37 68 30 29 ■082 33 71 26 24 ■1S2 27 80 26 23 ■102 38 72 36 32 ■092 39 69 36-5 34 ■063 36 68 31 30 ■027 33 66 26'3 26 ■012 26 67 23 22-2 ■042 37 67 34 30 •002 44 64 38 35 ■022 39-8 62 33 30 ■022 57 66 29 26 ■062 28 68 246 22-3 •027 37-6 67 36 32 ■042 4S-8 61 87-6 36 ■022 38 62 30 27 ■032 34 n- 24 23 •022 26 23 22 ■66 33 30 ■ ii27 ■■"42 -63 38 36 ■082 88 69 29-S 28-3 ■102 33 71 24-6 24 ■202 266 86 24 23 83 33 30 ". '■■162 ""40 78 36-5 34 ■177 37 80 29 28-5 ■167 32 98 26 24 192 26-3 83 24 24 ■222 39 86 36 32 ■212 44 83 38 34 ■242 40 87 32 29 '242 36-6 88 27 24'2 ■312 95 24 23 ■307 386 94 36 32 ■302 44 91 4*3 36 -322 34-5 90 34 31 ■282 27 92 30 27 ■182 27 83 2S 23 ■162 36 78 34 30-8 ■112 40 ■70 38 34 ■062 376 •68 32-5 29 ■062 36 67 29 27 •002 24 21 20 26992 33 -61 29 26-6 ■962 396 57 37 32 •977 360 60 28 26^5 26-012 326 63 26-6 25-0 ■122 26 77 24 23 ■133 38 79 32 29 ( 379 ) Survey Pandits at TABKdND during the lointer of 1873-74. — (Continued.) MiFIMTTK IN SHADB. MaXIMUK IK SHADS. Direction of Rbmabes. wind. During preceding 24 hours. Decree*. Decrees. 13-6 38-8 S.W. W. E. N. N. 16*5 38-6 E. S. E. S. w. 16*8 39-8 N. N.W. S. N. \ E. 16 38 N. W. S.W. N. N. 12 37-6 W. N. • S.E. •••••• NJ!. 13 41 N. N.W. N. N.W. S. • 12-6 36 w. E. ' N. * SW. • w. 11-6 37 E.S. N.E. E. * N. N. 12 • • • ••• 38 S.E. W.N. nj:. w. E. ■ 10 42*6 S. 1 ^* w. N. W. 12 34 S.W. S.E. ( 380 ) orological Obaervationa recorded by the Great Trigonometrical Survey Mercurial Baro- Beading of TlMPEEATDM OF AlE. 1 meter No. 720 Temperature of mercnrj. Solomon's nn- index error. Iiicket. Dry Bulb. Wet Bulb. Incket. Degrw*. B^reet. Degrm. M.. 26 134 43 ^'64 89-3 36 142 38 ■78 31-5 2S-S 162 32-6 -80 26 24 M. ... 202 28 ■86 27 25 'oon ... 232 37 ■86 37 34'3 .K. ... 202 38-8 •82 37 33 202 36 •83 33 31 222 33 -84 27 26 ■H. ... 192 24 -84 22 21-5 182 36 ■82 32 39^5 .M. .,. 162 40 ■79 36 33-5 162 37 ■78 30^5 ■ 29-S 172 32-6 ■81 270 26-0 .U. ... 162 24-S -81 20 19-5 [oon ... 162 36-0 •78 32 32 .H. 102 39-0 ■72 36 32 132 366 -73 27 26 102 32^0 ■72 25 2SS .K. ... ■082 21 -71 16-6 16-0 oon ... ■092 33 ■75 30 27 H. ■062 39 ■68 26 33 ■062 36 -67 26 25 ■I. Direction of wind. Bemjibes. Daiing preceding 24 hours. Degrm9. Degrees, «.W. 8-9 29-8 W. s. K 9 N. W. 10 33 S.E. E. S.W, N. N. 16 29-5 W. W. E. S.W. N, lOS 47 W. N.W. E. 1 • « • • ^ E. N. 7 46-5 W. w. ...... 8.E. W. N. 11-8 33-3 S.W. N. E. W. - « E. 6 34 N.W, W. For the mwith ». Degreet. Lwhe*. DegTMi. Degrett. , 9 a.m. ... 26'962 10 25-61 10-3 9'3 Noon ... ■852 24-8 ■61 26 23 3p.it. ... ■927 28 ■67 27 26 6 „ ... •922 26 ■66 21 20 9 -932 23 ■68 176 16 »*.M. ... ■927 12 ■60 13 12 Noon ... -932 21^6 ■61 20 %t.u. ... ■927 266 ■60 24-6 23 6 „ ... ■922 23 -60 19 18-6 9 „ ... ■942 20-5 ■63 16 IS 9 a.m. ... 26062 11 ■72 12-6 IS Noon ... ■062 22^6 •72 22 19-5 3p.h. ... ■042 28-6 ■70 26 23 6 „ ... ■062 24-6 ■72 186 17 8 ,, ... ■072 21 -74 15-6 14 9 a.m. ... 26-062 11 26-73 11 10 Noon. ... ■052 26 -71 23 21 3 p.m. ... ■047 28 ■71 26 23 6 „ ■072 25 -73 21 19 9 „ ... •082 21 ■76 16 11 9 a.m. ... ■117 10 ■80 11 10 Noon ... ■107 26 ■78 23 21 8 p.m. ... ■072 27^6 ■72 26 23 6 „ ... ■062 26 ■74 20 19 9 „ ... ■072 21 •76 16 16 9 A.M. ... ■067 10 ■83 8 7 Noon... ■162 23-5 22 19 3 p.m. ... -127 27 ■78 24 21 6 „ ... -152 25 •80 20 18 9 ., ... ■162 22 -80 17 16 9 a.m. ... ■192 11 ■87 13 12 Noon ... -192 21 ■86 21-6 19-6 8 p.m. ... ■167 26 ■81 24 21 ft H ■.. ■172 23 -84 20 19 9 „ ... •197 22 ■86 19 18 9 a.m. ... ■152 18'8 ■81 17 16 Noon ... ■117 26-8 ■78 26 22-5 3 F.M. ... ■077 27 ■73 26-6 « » ... ■082 23-3 74 19 18 » » ... ■062 20 ■73 16 15 9 a.m. ... .067 10 •73 10 9 Noon ... ■052 26 ■70 23 21 3 P.M. ... 26-992 28 ■66 26 8S 6 „ ... 26-007 26 ■68 21 10 9 „ ... •013 21 ■69 18 16 9 a.m. ... ■027 11-6 ■70 10 9 Noon ... ■022 26-5 ■67 26 23 8 p.m. ... 26-972 31 ■63 29 27 6 „ ... •972 27 ■63 24 33 9 ■962 24 ■61 21 19 9 a.m. ... 26'202 13 ■87 13 12 Noon ... ■302 25 -96 23-6 20 ( 386 ) Survey Pandits at YABKAND during the winter of 1873-74. — (Oontmued). MiKIMinC IN 8HADB. Maximum in shads. Direction of Bemabes. wind. During preoeding 24 hours. Degrees, Jjeffveet* 0 • 23 N. . S.E. W. N. S. 7-6 19 W. s. s. N.W. w. 6 29*6 S.W. N. S.E. w. N. 2 23 N. N.W. N. N. • W. 1-8 24 N. N.E. E. N. S.E. I i 1-3 26 E. N.E. E. W. •••••• * W. 3 22*6 N.W. W. S.W. N.E. N.W. 9 26 S.W. E. 8.E. • E. N. 1 29*6 S.W. nj:. E. "•'••• • E. W. 3 23 a N. w. - w. N. 4 31-6 w. N.E. a70 ( 386 ) MeteoroUtgioal Obtervattona recorded by the Great Trigonometrical Survey Mercnrial Baro- Beading of TiMFBSATITBB OF AlB. DjLTI. meter No. 720 corrected for Temperature of mercury. aneroid barome- ter Solomon 8 on- index error. corrected. DiyBnIb. Wet Bulb. Inches, DegreeM, Inches, jjegreee* Degrees, Jan. nth 1874,3p.k. .. 26-352 28-3 2601 26 23 6 „ .. -382 24 •05 19 18 9 ,. .. •412 21 •08 14 13 M 12th „ 9 a.m. .. •402 17-6 •05 15 14 Noon .. •342 26 •01 26 21 3 P.M. .. •302 28-5 25-94 26 23 6 „ .. •262 23-5 •93 20 18 9 „ .. •252 20 •90 14 13 „ 13th ,, 9A.1C. .. •192 10 •85 10 8 Noon .. •152 25 •80 235 20 3p.k. .. •102 28 •76 27 23 6 „ .. •092 24-5 •75 20 17 9 ., .. •072 19*8 •73 15 14 „ 14th „ 9a.k. .. •052 10 •72 10 9 Noon .. •042 25 •70 24 21 3 P.K. .. •022 29 •67 27 24 6 ., .. •032 25 •70 21 19 9 „ .. •042 20-3 •71 17 14-5 „ 15th „ 9a.k. .. •112 11 •80 11 10 Noon .. •107 25 •77 24 21 3 P.M. .. •102 29 •74 27 23-5 6 „ .. •122 25 •78 20 18 9 „ .. •152 21 •80 16 15 „ 16th „ 9a.ic. .. •207 11 •88 10 9 Noon .. •222 27 •89 26 22 3 P.K. .. •202 30 •87 28 25 6 „ .. •242 26-5 •90 22 20 9 „ ., •257 21 '92 17 15 „ 17th „ 9 a.m. .. 26-312 12-5 2601 13 11 Noon .. •327 27 25-98 26 • 22 3 P.M. .. •302 31 •95 29 26 6 „ .. •302 27 •95 25 23 9 „ .. •292 24 •94 20 18 „ 18th „ 9 a.m. .. •207 11 •88 13 12 Noon .. •202 27-6 •87 28 24 3 P.M. .. •107 32 •73 30 27 6 „ .. •107 28 •77 24 22 9 ,. .. •102 24 1 •74 20 18 „ 19th „ 9 a.m. .. •077 12 •73 13 11 Noon .. •072 27 •72 27 28 3 p.m. .. •062 31 •69 31 28 6 „ .. •067 28 •70 23 20 9 „ .. •082 23 •72 18 16 „ aOth „ 9 a.m. .. •062 18-5 •71 12 10 Noon .. •052 31 •70 30 26 3 P.M. .. •052 33 •71 33 31 6 „ .. •062 30 •73 31 28 9 „ .. ■027 27-5 ' •68 22 20 „ 2l8t „ 9 a.m. .. 25-932 22 •58 21 18-5 Noon .. •927 30 •56 30*5 27-5 3 P.M. .. •862 32 •51 ' 31 28-5 6 „ .. •867 30 •54 28 26 ( 387 ) Pandits at TAUKAND during the tointer of 1873-74. — (Continued.) ' MlHIKITX IK SSADX. Maximum in shads. Direction of Bemabks. wind. During preceding 24 hours. Degrees, Degreee. N.W. « W. «••■•• s. 3 24 S.E. w. E. W. 1 23 E. S.E. N.E. N.W. N. • 0-6 23*5 S.W. N.E. sj:. N. N. 1 25-5 W. N.W. W. s. N. 1 25 N. S. b • • • • E. E. S. 1 25 NW. S.E. N.E. E. N. 2-5 27 S.W. w. S.E. , E. N. 4 80 E. N.W. S. E. N.E. 7'6 33 S.W. s. E. S. •.••.. w. 10-8 34*8 s. N. N.B. • W. • ( 388 ) Meteorological Obaervationa recorded by the Great Trigonometrical Mercurial Baro- Beading of Tbmpbratuse of Aib. Date. meter No. 720 corrected for Temperature of mercury. aneroid barometer Solomon's un- index error. corrected. Dry Bulb. Wet Bulb. Inches. • Degrees. Inches. Degrees. Jjegrtes. Jan. 2l8t, 1874, 9 P.M. ... •892 29 •66 26^6 226 ;, 22nd 1) «7 A.Jtf. ... •902 26 •66 24 21 Noon ... •912 31 •66 32 28 3 P.H. ... •912 34 •66 336 27 6 •942 30 •60 26 23 9 „ ... •947 27 •64 22-5 20^6 „ 23rd ff if A..M. . . . •952 23 •62 22 19 Noon ... •947 31-6 •68 32 27-5 3p.m- ... •917 33 •67 33 30 6 „ ... •962 318 •62 28 26 9 „ ... •972 28-6 •67 26 24 „ 24fch ft if A.IC. ... 26-062 20-6 •72 19 27-3 Noon ... •062 33-6 •72 32*5 29 3 p.m. ... •062 375 •69 36 346 6 „ ... •067 340 •73 29 28 9 „ ... •072 30 •76 26 23 „ 26th II if A.M« ... •092 21 •76 20-5 196 Noon ... 0^ 36 •67 346 303 3pji. ... 26-982 38 •62 37 34*6 6 „ ... •972 34 •62 30 29 9 „ ... •972 32 •61 29 26 „ 26th ff if A.M. .. . •992 28 -62 27 26 Noon ... •977 39 •62 40 36 3 P.H. ... •972 40 •60 38 33-6 6 „ ... 26^002 36 •66 31 29 9 „ ... •007 306 •68 26 24 „ 27th ff V A.Ma . . . •022 22 •69 21 19 Noon ... •042 32 •69 33 29 3p.ii. ... •017 38 •66 37 34 6 „ ... •022 33-5 •69 30 28-5 9 „ ... •032 29 •70 245 23 „ 28th ly <7 A.M. ... 26132 21 •80 19 17 Noon ... •132 34 •80 33 31 3 P.M. ... •112 376 •75 36 30 6 „ ... •122 33-6 •79 28 25 9 ,1 ... •172 32 •84 296 25-3 „ 29th „ 9 a.m. ... •142 28 •80 29 26 • Noon ... 142 36 •81 36 32 3 P.M. ... •092 38 •73 36 31 6 „ ... •102 33 '77 29 26 9 „ ... •097 30 •76 24 22 „ 30th ff «7 A.M. ... 26^062 22-6 25-78 21 19 Noon ... •062 36-5 •68 36 31 3 P.M. ... •002 38 •64 37 31 6 „ ... •007 34-5 -66 31 26 9 „ ... •012 31 .66 27 24 „ 3l8t II 9 a.m. ... •032 22 -69 21 19 Noon ... •022 34-8 •67 33-5 29 3 P.M. ... 25997 386 •63 368 33'5 6 .1 ... 26002 34 •65 31 27 9 „ ... •007 32 •67 29 26 • ( 389 ) Survey Pandits at TABKAND during the winter of 1873-74. — (Contmued.) MiKIMVU IN SHADE. Mazimttk in shade. • Direction of B E M A B K S. wind. During preceding 24 hours. D^rees. Degrees^ N.W. 19 34 S.W. N,W. N. W. N.E. 17 38 S.W. s. E. N.E. N. / 9 39 N.W. E. E. N.W. N. 9 33-8 N.W. N.E. S.W. K N. 14 34-5 S.W. E. S.E. S. w. 11 43-5 w. N. N. E. . tbr the mon$h qf Jianuarp 1874^ N.E, • 1 7-8 42 N.W, 9 A.M. Noon. 3 P.K. 6 p.m. 9 p.m. N.E. Mean of Mercurial 26-093 26087 26060 26068 26074 N. Barometer No. 720 S, E. corrected to 32°. 17 34 w. Mean of Dry Bulb 15-6 278 30-0 242 20-4 E. Thermometer. S.W. N. Mean of Wet Bulb 140 24-6 26-8 222 185 N.E. Thermometer. 11 41 S.W. N.E. Mean of minimum thermometer ... (^ 6°*2 N.E. Mean of maximum thermometer in shade ... 29°7 29°'7 S. E. 8 34-5 S.W. S.E. S.E. N. E. all 1 ( 390 ) Meteorological Observations recorded by the Oreat Trigonometrical Survey Mercurial Baro- Beading of TbmP££AT17BB OF AlB. Date. meter No. 720 corrected for Temperature of mercury. Aneroid Barome- ter Solomon's • index error. uncorrected. Dry bulb. Wet bulb. Itiches. Degrees, Inches. Degrees. Degrees. Peb. Ist, 1874, 9 A.M. ... 26-982 26 26-63 266 23 Noon ... •977 36 •62 36 32 3 P.M. . . . •907 38 •66 37 32-6 O ff ... •912 34 •68 30 26 «7 yf ... •917 31 •69 26 23 „ 2xid „ 9 a.m. ... •902 20 •68 19 17 \ Noon ... •897 36 •66 36 31-6 3 P.M. ... •872 42 •62 41 36 O 99 ... •892 38 •63 34 32 o V ff ... •912 336 -69 28 26 ff SiCi ff V A«M« • . . •982 24 •66 24 21 • Noon ... •977 36 •62 36 32 V P.M» ... •962 42 ■68 41 36 6 „ '942 38-6 •67 31 28 «r )9 ... '962 33 •62 29 26 ,, 4lh „ 9 a.m. ... •962 26 •62 24 21 Noon ... •962 37 •62 37 32-5 t> P.M. . . . •927 42-6 •66 41 36 0 If • ■ • •927 39 •68 32 28 y 99 • • • •947 33-3 •60 27 26 99 OiO 99 9 A.M» ... •962 26-6 •61 26-6 226 Noon ... •962 37-6 •60 37 31-6 i «l P.M* ... •922 48^ •66 42 36 D 99 ... •927 39 •68 32 28 17 99 ••. •962 32-6 •61 26 23 „ 6th ,9 9 a.m. ... •932 26-6 •62 26 23 Noon ... •927 36 •60 36 31 3 P.M. ... •902 42 •66 41 36 O 99 ... •902 37-6 •66 33 29 9 99 •907 33 •68 29 26 99 7ul 99 *f A.M. ... •907 26-6 •68 24 22 Noon ... •923 38 •69 38 32 9 P.M« ... •892 42-6 •62 41 34-6 6 99 •892 38 •62 32 28 9 $t •897 34 -66 29 26 99 OblK 99 if A.M. . . . •962 24 •60 23 20^6 Noon ... •792 36 •42 36 31 3 P.M. ... •677 41 •31 40 36 t) 99 •«. •702 36 •36 33 32 9 99 •722 34 •37 30 26 99 «7tn 99 V A.M. . . . •732 31 •41 31-6 28 Noon ... •712 38 •36 38^ 33 O P.M. ... •712 41 •37 40 34 6 99 •762 38 •40 36 31 9 99 •767 36 •41 33 30 99 lOih 99 9 a.m. ... •897 318 •66 31 28 Noon ... •927 40-3 •67 41 36-3 O P.M. ... •922 39 •67 386 34-6 D 99 ... •947 36-6 •63 33 31 U 99 ... •962 32 •64 31 29 99 llih 99 9 a.m. ... •937 31-6 •69 33 31-5 Noon ... •902 37 •66 38 36-3 ( 391 ) Pandits at TABKAND during the month of 1873-74.— (Continued) MuriMTTM IN SHADE. Maxikuh in shadb. Direction of • wind. Bemjlsks. During preceding 24 hours. • Decrees. Decrees. 14*3 36 S. S.W. E. N.E. N. 8-6 42 N.W. W. E. W. N. • 12-8 38-5 N. W. • s. w. .E. 13 39- N.W. N.E. W. E. «••«•• N. 16-6 40 S.W. s.w. w. 1 ( ••«•■• w. N. i2-8 38-6 w. N.E. E. N. • S. 11 43 N.W. N. N.E. E. N. 9-'8 45 N.E. W. N.E. N. ) N. . 16-6 49 S.W. ^ ••••«• N.E. W. N. W. 24*5 ^'-5 N.W. f E. E. W. W. 1 22 48 N.B. N. Gouds and snow. 1 ( 392 ) Meteorological Observatiotu recorded by theGreat Trigonometrical Mercurial Baro- Beading of Tempebatcibs of Aib. Date. meter No. 720 corrected for Temperature of mercury. Aneroid Bi^meter 8blomon'fi un- index error. corrected. Dry bulb. Wet bulb. Inches. Degrees, Inches. Degrees, * Degrees. Feb. nth, 1874, 3 P.1I. .. 26-872 37-6 26-62 37 35 6 „ .. •892 34 ■66 32 30 9 „ .. •902 30 •67 28 27 „ 12th „ 9 am. .. '942 30 •61 29-6 27 Noon .. •937 37 •69 36 32 3 P.M. .. •902 39^6 •64 393 34 6 „ .. •902 36 •67 30 27 9 „ .. 912 31 •60 27 26 ,, 13th „ 9a.k. .. 9-92 . 28 •66 26^6 26 Noon .. 26002 36 •67 36 31 3 P.M. .. 26-977 46-6 •66 38 34 6 „ .. •962 37-6 '06 30'6 28 9 ., .. •972 31-3 •67 263 26 „ 14th „ 9 a.m. .. 26027 29 •68 276 25-5 Noon .. •002 38 •66 37 33 3 P.M. .. 26-962 41 •68 39 36 6 „ .. •912 38 •66 33 28 9 „ .. •962 34 •63 31 26-5 „ 15th „ 9 A.M. .. 26^062 34 •71 34 82 Noon .. •027 41 •69 41-3 36 3 P.M. .. •022 43 •67 41 85 6 „ .. •022 40 •67 36 31 9 „ .. •012 36 •67 31 27 ,, 16th „ 9 a.m. .. •027 26 •71 26 22 Noon .. •042 38-6 •66 37 82 3 P.M. .. •022 43 •60 41 36 6 „ .. 26-952 40 •69 33 28 9 „ .. •062 34 •69 30 26 „ 17th „ 9 a.m. .. -942 34-6 •67 34 31 Noon .. •927 41-6 • -66 42-5 37 8 P.M. .. •912 45-6 •64 46 38-5 6 „ .. •932 aring preceding 24 hours. Degree9 34'5 * 36-5 "36^8 '31' Degrees. S. S.E. W. N.W. N.W. W. W. W. N.W. N.W. W. w. N.B. W. N. E. W. S.W. W. W. For the month of March 1874. 9 a.m. Noon. 3 P.M. 6 p.m. 9 p.m. Mean of Meicurial 25908 25*894 25*858 25*862 25*662 Barometer No. 720 corrected to 32°. Mean of Dry Bulb 40*1 48*4 49*6 42*7 37*1 Thermometer. Mean of Wet Bulb 35*1 411 41*3 36*4 33*8 Thermometer. Mean of Minimum Thermometer ... 29^*8 Mean of Maximum Thermometer in shade ...52^*5 aU ( 402 ) Meteorological Obgervaiiotu at KASSQHdJR during Aneroid Barometer Tbmpebatubb Maximum Minimum MlKIMirM No. v., hy Aneroid Barometer OF AIB. Iff IN IN OPBN. Datb. * Tronghton and SimmB, corrected for by Dixey, correct- ed for index error. SHADE. SHADB. Dry bulb. Wet bulb. index error. During preceding 24 honrg. Ineheg. Inches. Degrees. Degrees. Degrees. Degrees. Degrees. Dec.l2th, 1873,9 A.M, 26-07 26^09 • • • • • • u-o 15-8 Noon •02 •06 34-5 • ■ • • • • 3 P.M. 25-95 •02 34-5 • • • 6 „ 26-02 •07 • • • • ■ • m • • „ 13tll „ 9 A.M. •00 •06 • • • 38 53 Noon 25*98 •04 33 ■ • • 3 p.m. •92 25-99 37 « • • 6 „ •98 26-02 • • • • ■ • „ 14tll „ 9 A.M. 26-00 -05 26 385 10-5 6 P.M. 25-93 25-98 ■ • • c «• „ 15th „ 9 A.M. -89 -95 20 375 7 Noon •86 •92 32 ■ • • 3 P.M. •80 •88 36 9 t 9 • • • 6 „ •87 •90 ■ • • • « ■ „ 16th „ 9 a.m. •82 •88 f V • 19^5 37 6-5 Noon •78 •83 360 • • • 3 P.M. •74 •78 36^0 • • • 6 „ -77 •80 • • • „ 17th „ 9 A.M. •70 •76 23 38 11 Noon •67 •70 33 • • • 3 P.M. •66 •69 33 • • • • • • 6 „ •69 •72 %^m^ • • * „ 18th „ 9 A.M. •67 •74 • • • 23 35 11-5 Noon -67 •72 45-5 • • ■ 3 P.M. •65 •69 475 • > • • V • 6 „ -69 •73 • • • „ 19th „ 9 A.M. •92 •99 50 '*3b-6 7 Noon •92 •99 ^ m • • 3 p.m. •89 •95 ■ ■ • • • • 6 „ •89 •96 • ■ • « • • „ 20th „ 9 A.M- •99 26-04 20 V * § 11 Noon •99 •05 36 • • • • • ■ 3 p.m. •95 •01 32 • ■ ■ 6 „ •97 •03 26-5 ■ • ■ . ■ « • „ 21»t „ 9 AM, •93 •00 28 7-5 Noon •92 25-98 35 • « • 3 P.M. •89 •94 32 s • • • • • 6 „ •90 •95 27 V V • « • • 9 „ •94 •99 24 • • • • ■ • „ 22nd „ 9 A.M. •88 •94 25-5 29*5 8-5 Noon '84 •89 35 • • • • • • 3 p.m. •80 •84 33 ■ • • • ■ « 6 „ -78 •82 26 V • • « ■ • „ 23rd „ 9 P.M. •63 •67 22 29 8-5 Noon •58 •60 31 • • • • ■ • 3 P.M. •50 •54 28-5 • • • • ■ • 6 „ •52 54 255 # • • ■ • ■ „ 24th „ 9 A.M. •72 74 38 40 15 Noon •73 •75 44 * * • • ■ 4 3 p.m. •74 •76 38 • • • • • • 6 „ .80 •82 285 • • » ■ • • ^ 26th „ 9 A.M. •87 •90 27 35 11-6 3 P.M. •78 •81 33 • • a • • • 6 „ •77 •80 26-5 • • • • • • J ( 403 ) the winter of 1873-74 by Captain H. Trotter, BJE., and his Native Aesietants, Boiling point Boiling point Boiling point Boiling point Thermometer Thermometer Thermometer Thermometer Direction No. 17970, No. 17972, No. 17974, No. 17976, of Remabes. corrected corrected corrected for corrected for wind. for index error. for index error. index error. index error. Degrees. Degrees. 206-20 206*20 W. W. At Eashghar the aneroid harometers and the thermometers (with the exception of 206-07 20507 s. w. the minimum in open) were placed in a covered porch, opening into a large 206-17 206-16 w. court-y aid and &cing the east ; they were completely protected firom the direct rays •••*•• E. 205-07 206-06 N.E. N. w. of the sun. '20612 '206-10 '206-07 '206-07 The minimum in open was placed on the • E. snr&ce of a tahle, raised tluee feet above 206-02 206-00 205-02 206-02 W. the ground, and placed near the centre of the large court-yard. W. 204-87 204-86 204-77 204-77 S.W. The thermometers were all graduated on 204-87 204-86 204-77 204-77 S.E. W. W. E. W. E. S. E. S.W. s. S.E. * Fahrenheit's scale. .'2b4-72 *204'70 204'-62 204-62 *204-62 '204-60 *2b4'-67 204-57 '204-62 '204-60 '204-62 204-62 '204-64 '204-62 '204-42 204-42 204-42 '204-40 '204-37 204-37 W. S.W. W. S.W. S.W. 206-22 206-20 E. s. w. E. W. • 206-07 *2b5-06 '20502 * . • f • . 205-02 • 206-12 , '205'lO '204-97 '204-97 ■•■••• S.E. 206-02 20600 204-92 204-92 E. E. S.W. « 204-97 204-96 204-92 204-92 S.E. W. 204-72 204-70 204-67 204-57 W. S.E. 204-39 204-40 204-27 204-27 W. S.E. 20417 20416 S. N. S. S.W. N.E. N. • 204-92 204-90 204-79 204-82 W. 204-72 204-73 204-62 204-62 S.E. S. { 4M ) Meteorological Observation at KASSOHAR during the mnter ft Aneroid Barometer Tbmpebatube Maximum Minimum Minimum No. v., by Aneroid Barometer OFAIB. IN IN IN OPBN. Date. Troughton and Simms, corrected for by Dixey, corrected for index error. 8HADB. SHADE. Dry bulb. Wet bulb. index error. During preceding 24 hours. Inehe9. Inches. Degrees, 'Degrees. Degrees, DegreeSm Degrees. Dec. 26th, 1873, 9 a.m. 26-74 26-77 23 29 7 Noon •76 •78 33 • • • * ft • 3f.m. •72 •74 33 . • . • ft • 6 „ •78 •80 26 • • • ■ ft ft „ 27th „ 9 a.m. •83 •86 22 30 10^5 Noon •78 •82 34-6 • • • ... 3 p.m. •73 •76 33 • • • ... 6 „ •72 •76 32 • ft • • •• „ 28th M 9 a.m. •92 •97 23 30 2-6 6 p.m. •88 •94 26 ft • • .. • „ 29th „ 9 a.m. •82 •88 24 29 O^O 3 p.m. •80 • •86 80^6 t ft • ... 6 „ •88 •91 246 * • • •. . „ 30th „ 9 a.m. 26-93 2608 24 286 4-6 Noon •97 •02 29 • ■ • •«* 3 p.m. •93 26-98 27 9 • • •. • y* ^ vX8w y, <7 A.M. \ 22-6 • • • 315 96 «.• Noon 30 • • ■ . • . . • • ... 3 p.m. V 26 • • • t • « . . • •« • 6 „ 22 • • « t.f . • . ... ( 405 ) of 1873-74 hy Captain S. Trotter^ R.E.^ and his Native Assistants. — (Continued.) Boiling point Thermometer No. 17970, corrected for index error. Degrees, 204-72 '204^ Boiling point Thermometer No. 17972, corrected for index error. Degrees, 204*67 204-62 • • ■ •« ■ Boiling point Thermometer , No. 17974. corrected for index error. 204*59 '204-67 Boiling point Thermometer No. 17976, corrected for index error. 204*62 *204'-67 DiractioB of wind. W, £. S.W. S.E. w. s. S.W, s. w. s. N. S.E. E. K N.W. W. S.W. s. E. Rbmabes Jbr the month of December 1873. M«an of An«roid Baro- meter No. v., hj Troaghton and Simme oorreoted for index error. 9A.1E. Noon. Srjc. 6r.li. [mw 26*8S 86*80 26*82 Mean of Aneroid Bare- \9 am. meter by Dixey oorveet-') «d for index error. (^ "**» Koon. 26-88 Spjl 26-84 6 9M, 26*86 f' « MeancfDiyBolb Ther-. _^ mometer. i m*i Noon. 84*7 8r.M. SS-6 6P.3t. 26*4 Mean of Xaximwn Thermometer in ihada Mean of Minimom in open • « • • •• S6-0 8-9 o75 ( 406 ) Meteorologieal Ob%ercaiion» at KASMGHAB during the Aneroid Barometer Tbmpbbatubs Maximum Tiff MmiMUM MixiMrm IF 0PB5. » No. Date. Tirougl v., hy Aneroid bton and hy Dixe; Drrected for for ind Barometer Y corrected ex error. OP AIS. SHADE. III SHADE. Simms, C4 indei . error. Dxyhidbw WethuIU During preceding 24 hours. Inches, Irn che9. Degrses. Degrees, Degrees. Degrees, Degrees. Jan. Ist, 1874^ 9 a.h. 16-6 • • • 316 126 1 • - • 1 „ Silk „ 9a.h. 18 • V • 306 76 ■ • • 1 Noon 26-6 • • • • • * • • » « « ■ 3p.u. 24-6 • ■ ■ • r • • • ■ • • • 6 „ 20 ■ • • • • • « • • »• ■ „ 9ih „ 9a.m, 20 • • • 28-5 10 • ■ • „ lOtll „ 9 A.M. 17-6 • • • 29 126 « ■ • Noon 26 • « • * « • » ■ ■ • • ■ 3P.1C 26 V • • V • • »• • ■ • • 6 „ 20 • » • • ■ ■ » ■ • • • • „ 11th „ 9 A.M. 19 ■ ■ « 28-6 76 • • ■ Noon 24-6 0 » m • ■ • • V • «• - 3 P.M. 24 • • • » ■ • • • • • • ■ 6 „ 20-6 • ■ ■ • a • « • • • V ■ % „ 12th „ 9 A.M. 26 36 '2634 16-6 » • • 26 6 • • • Noon •31 •30 286 • r • ■ • • • • • • • ■ 3 P.M. •26 •22 26-0 m • • » ■ ■ # • • « • • „ 13th „ 9 A.M. •14 •13 18 t •• 246 6 V • ■ Noon •08 •08 28 • • • • • • • • • • * * 3 p.m. '06 •02 266 ■ V • • • • ■ • • • • ■ 6 „ •06 •02 21 • • • • • • • • • ■ • • „ 14tb „ 9 a.m. •04 •00 20-6 • • • 28-6 7-6 • • • Noon •01 2697 29 • » • • • • ■ • • 1 3 p.m. 26-97 •93 26-6 ■ ■ • • • « « • • • • • 6 „ 2601 •97 19 • • • *• • • • a • ■ ■ „ 16th „ 9 A.M. •08 2607 20 • • ■ 29 7-5 • • • 1 Noon •06 •03 27-5 • • ■ • • • ■ * • • • ■ 3 P.M. •03 •02 26-6 • • • • » ■ » • • • • • 6 „ •06 •06 19-6 • « ■ * • « ... » • • ,, 16th „ 9 A.M. •17 •17 23 • ■ • 28-6 6 ■ • • 6 p.m. •20 •20 21 ■ « • • • ■ ■ * • ■ • ■ „ 17th „ 9 a.m. •28 •29 26 • « • 30-6 6-6 -66 Noon •26 •27 28 * ■ • • • • m • • ... „ 18th „ 9 A.M. •17 •18 23*6 • • ■ 31-6 10 +1-6 Noon •10 •12 316 • • • • ■ • • r • ■ • • 3 P.M. •04 •06 29 ■ • ■ • • • • • • a • • 6 „ •06 •06 • • • • « • • • ■ V • • ■ ■ ■ „ 19th „ 9 A.M. 00 •02 22-6 • • • 29^6 12 +2 ,, 2(Hh „ 9 A.M, 26-99 •00 26-6 • • • 28 146 +6 Noon •97 25-97 36-6 • • ■ • ■ • • • • • • • 3 p.m. •96 •96 33 ■ ■ • • « • • » » ■ • • 6 „ •96 •96 • • • • • • • • • • • ■ a ■ • „ 2l9t „ 9 A.M. •87 •87 24 * • • 36 20 +10 Noon •82 •82 33 ■ • • • « ■ • • ■ • • • 3 P.M. •77 •77 32 • « ■ ■ « • • • ■ 4 a • 6 „ •81 •81 27-7 ■ « ■ • • • • ■ • • ■ • „ 22nd „ 9 A.M. •83 •84 26-6 • • • 39-6 22-6 17 Noon •83 •84 36 • • • • • • • » • a • • 3 P.M. •86 •86 34 • • • • • • • ■ • • » • 6 „ •86 -87 29 ■ ■ t • • • • • • ■ • • „ 23rd „ 9 A.M. •87 •88 23*6 ■ • • 36 19-6 a • a „ 24th „ 9 A.M. 2601 2601 33 ■ ■ • 36 216 16 Noon -00 •00 37-6 • « • • • • • ■ • • • • 6 „ •00 •00 • » • • • • • ■ • • « • a a a ( 407 ) vmier of 1874-75, by Captain S. Trotter, B,.E., and his Native Assistants. BoiHng point Boiling point Boiling point Boiling point ' Thermometer Thermometer Thermometer Thermometer Direction No. 17460, No. 17972, No. 17974, No. 17975, of Remabks. corrected corrected corrected for corrected for wind. fi>r^index error. for index error. index error. index error. JJB^TW9» • S.W. N.E. S. N. N.W S. N. S. S.W. w. N. N.E. w. s. s. w, E. N.W. s. s. s. N.B. The break in the observations from Ist tollti) January caused by Captain Trotter's absence on the expedition to Chadyr-lLul. t S.W. S.E. S. S.W. S.W. S.E. S.W. S.W. W. S.E. N.E. W. S.W. S. S.E. S.W. w. s. S.W. N. w. • 204-57 204-65 • 204-67 204-62 • « t • t • S.W. S.E. W. S.W. E. N.E. S. N. W. S.W. w. ( 408 ) Meteorological Obteroations at KASSGSAB during the vmter of 1874-75, Date. Aneroid Barometer No. v., by Troughton and Simrns, corrected £6r Aneroid Barometer by Dixey corrected for index Tbmpbbatubb OP AIB^ Maximum IN SHADE. Minimum IK 8HADB. MlBIMUK IK OPBK. index error. error. Dry Bnlb. Wet Bulb. Daring preceding 24 hours. Inches. IkeheM, Degrees. Degrees. D^rees. Degrees. Jaa. 25th, 1874,9 A.H. 26-03 26-03 28 • • • 39 145 _5 Noon 26-97 26-97 38-5 • « • • ■ • ■ • « 6 p.m. •92 •92 « • • • • t • « • • • ■ „26th „ 9 A..M. •93 •93 28 40-5 22 13 Noon •90 •90 35-5 • • • • « ■ • • • 3 P.M. •89 •89 35 • • ■ • • • • • ■ 6 „ •92 •92 26 35 19-5 7-2 « 27fch „ 9A..X. '99 •99 260 35 19-6 7-2 Noon •96 •96 34 « • • • • • • • ■ 3 P.M. -92 •93 35 • ■ • • • • « • • 6 „ •93 •94 27 • • • • • • • • • »28tli „ 9 A..H. 26-07 26-08 28-5 37-5 20 8-5 3 P.M. •04 •05 37 • « * • • ■ • • • 6 ^ •08 •08 • • • •• • ■ ■ • • ■ • „ 29th „ 9 a.m. •08 •10 32-5 42 22-6 14-5 Noon •02 •06 42 • • • ■ • • ■ • ft 3 P.M. 26-98 •02 38 « • • • • ■ • •• 6 „ •98 •02 , • ■ t « • • • • • ■ • ■ »30Ui „ 9 A.M. •96 OO 22 44 17-5 6-2 Noon •91 25-96 34-6 % • m • • ■ «■ • 3 P.M. •90 •01 34-6 • « • • « • • • • 6 „ •91 •92 • m • " • • • • • ■ • • • >. 3Ut n 9 A..M. •95 •98 29 3?-5 17-5 6 Noon -91 •94 39 • « • • • • .. • 6 p.m. •89 •92 « • « • « • • • « *•• ( 409 ) 6y Captain H. Trotter^ R.E.y and his Natwe Aaaistanta. — (Continued.) BoUing point Thermometer No. 17970, cor- rected valaes. Degrees. Boiling point Thermometer No. 17972, corrected valuee. Degrees. Boiling point Thermometer No. 17974. corrected values. Boiling point Thermometer No. 17976, corrected valnes. Direction of wind. W. S.W. N. N.E. N.E. S.E. S. N.W. W. s. • • • w. w. s. S.E. E. W. s. N.E. S.E. W. S.W. w. s. N. RSMABKS. Jfbr the month qf January 1874. Mean of Ane- roid Barome- ter No. V. hy Troughton & Simms, cor rected for in- dex error. 9a.h. Noon. 2604 2601 3p.m. 6p.m. 26-97 26-98 Mean of Ane- roid Barome- ter by Dixey corrected for index error. 9 a.m. 26-04 Noon. 26-01 3 P.M. 26-97 6 P.M. 26*98 Mean of Dry 236 324 30*3 226 Bnlb thermo- meter. Mean of minimom thermometer 13^*6 in shade. Mean of maximum thermometer 33°'0 in shade. Mean of minimum in open . . . 7°'6 al6 ( 410 ) Meteorological Observations at KASMOMAS during the winter Date. Aneroid bftrometer No. V. by Tronghton and Sinuns corrected for Aneroid barometer by Dixey corrected for index Tbmfbbatueb OF AIB. Maximum IV 8HADS. MiiriMrM IN 8HADB. MuriMUM nr OPBK. index error. • error. Dry Bulb. Wet Bulb. During preceding 24 hours. Inches. Inches, D^eei. JjeffTees* Degrees, DiBgrees, uegren. Feb. lit, 1874 9 ▲.]£. U'8S 26-86 29 40^6 22 13-6 Noon •84 •82 38 « • • • • • • • • 3 p.m. •82 •79 • 36 « « • • • • • • • 6 p.m. •82 •78 • • • • • ■ • » • » • • „ 2nd „ 9 a.m. •82 •78 32-6 386 13-6 4 Noon •79 •76 38 • • ■ • • • ■ • • 3 p.m. •77 •73 38^6 • • • • • • • ■ • 6 p.m. '80 •77 • • • ■ • • a • • • • • „ 3rd „ 9 a.m. •89 •86 276 41^6 19-6 8 Noon •88 •86 40 • • • ■ • • * • • 3 p.m. *84 •80 37 • • • m • • • • • 6 p.m. •86 •82 • • • • • • • • • • • ■ ,, 4th „ 9 a.m. •90 •86 36 42 197 9 Noon •86 •83 40-6 • • • • • • • > « 3 p.m. •83 •79 39 • « • • • • • • • 6 P.M. •84 •80 • • • ■ • • • • • • • • „ 6th „ 9 a.m. •86 •82 31 42 23 16 Noon •86 •81 41 • • • • • ■ 3 p.m. •82 •78 40 • • • • • • • • • 6 P.M. •86 •81 • • • • • • • • • • • • „ 6th ,.. 9 a.m. •84 •83 326 416 20^6 11 Noon •79 •78 43-6 • • « • • • • « • 3 p.m. •76 •73 40-6 • ■ • • • • » • • 6pje. •80 •77 32 • • • « • • • • • „ 7th „ 9 a.m. •84 •81 37 476 19-7 66 Noon •83 •80 46 • • • • • • * ■ • • 3 p.m. •76 - •76 40 « • • • • • • • ■ 6 P.M. •77 •76 31 • • • • ■ » • • • n 8th „ 9 a.m. •72 •73 296 446 20 10 Noon •67 •66 88 • • • • • • ■ • • 3 p.m. •68 •68 39 • • ■ • • • t « ■ „ 9th „ 9 a.m. •61 •69 33-6 40-6 28-6 19-6 Noon •60 •68 39 • • • • • • * • • 3 p.m. •68 •67 39 « • • • • • ■ « • 6 P.M. •60 •69 34 * • • • • • „ 10th „ 9 a.m. •81 •81 396 41-6 29 "'24 Noon •83 •83 37 1 1 • • • • ■ » « 3 p.m. •81 •81 39 • • • • • • # * ■ „ 11th „ 9 a.m. •80 •82 316 43*6 28-6 246 Noon •79 •79 38 • ■ A • • • ■ » • 3 P.M. •76 *7Q 40 • • • • ■ • »• • 6 p.m. •80 •81 31 • • • V • • • * ■ „ 12th „ 9 a.m. •79 •82 336 46 24 16-6 Noon •78 •79 386 • • • 4 • • # 9 ■ 3 p.m. •76 •77 36 • • • • • • ■ • • 6 p.m. •76 •77 30 « • • • • « • • • „ 13th „ 9 a.m. •83 •86 29-6 39^6 12-6 2 Noon •86 •88 36-6 • • • • • • % • » 3 p.m. •83 •84 36-6 • « » • • • • • « 6 p.m. •86 •87 31 • ■ • • • • • • • „ 14th „ 9 a.m. •90 •93 30 38-6 21-6 12-6 Noon •89 396 • • • • • • ... 3f.m. a •82 38 • • * • • « ... ( 4ill ) of 1874-75 hy Certain H. Trotter, B. ^.—(Continued.) Boiling point thermometer No. 17970 cor- rected values. Boiling point thermometer No. 17972 corrected yainee. Boiling pwnt thermometer No. 17974. Boiling point thermometer No. 17975. Direction of wind. Bbmabks. Degr\ Decrees, « • • ••• • •«•••• • • • »t • W. N.E. S.E. S.E. W. s.w. w. N.W. N.W. N.B. N. S. W. N.E. W. N. W. s. E. S. S.W. S.E. S.W. s. N.B. S.E. 0.E« sj:. S.W. E. E. S.W. s. S.E. s. N.E. E. E. N.W. N.E. N.E. N. W. N.W, W. N.W. N.W. N.E. N. N.W. W. NW. W. The break in the readings of aneroid No.Y. caused by Oaptain iSotter's absence in the Artysh Districts. ( 412 ) Meteorological ObservaHona at KASSOSAB during the winter of Aneroid barometer Tbmpbjutubx Maximum Minimum Minimum No. v., by Aneroid barometer OF AIB. IN IN IN Datb. Troughton and Simms oorreoted for by Dixey corrected for index error. 8HADB. SHADB. OPBN. « Dry Bulb. Wet Bulb. index error. During preceding 24 houxs. Inehet, Inches. Degrees. Degrees, Degrees, Degrees, JJegreeSt Feb. 15th, 1874 9 a.m. 25-94 31 • • • ^-8 25 12-5 Noon •90 42 28 • * • • • • • • • 3p.h. •88 41 30 • • > • • • „ leth „ 9a.h. •95 37 83 44 23 17 Noon •91 41 33 • • « • • • • • • 8p.h. •87 39-5 335 • • • • • • „ 17th „ 9 A.H. •80 34 32 42 27 15-5 Noon •79 42 33 « • • ■ • • 3p.h. •77 ^•5 34 * • • • • ■ • • • „ 18th „ 9a.h. •99 41 32-5 44 23-5 21-5 Noon •96 45 35-6 • • « • • • 3 P.M. •94 40 35 • • • • • • „ 19th „ 9a.h. 2610 32-5 29 36-5 20 15 Noon •08 33 32 • • t ... • • • 3p.h. •03 315 32 s • ■ • fl • • ■ • „ 20Ui „ 9 a.m. 25-98 41 31 42 22 19 Noon •93 43 32 • • • • « ■ 3 p.m. •87 39 32 • • • • • • „ 2l8t „ 9 a.m. •96 32^5 29 44 22-5 14 Noon •92 42 32 • • « » • • • • • 3 P.M. •91 40 32 • • • • • * ,, 22nd „ 9 a.m. 2608 31 34 42 30 12 Noon •04 ' 34-5 32 t fl • • • ■ • • • 3 p.m. •00 32 32 ■ ■ • • • « • • • „ 2drd „ 9 a.m. •06 32-5 81 36 29 14 Noon •04 40 32-6 ■■• • • • • • ■ „ 24th „ 9a.M( 25*93 39 31 ^ 20 20-5 Noon •86 39-6 32-8 • • • ■ • • • « • 3 p.m. •84 36 32 • • • • ■ • * • • „ 25th „ 9 a.m. •74 45 33 45 26 21 Noon •69 40 32 • • * • • • 3 p.m. •64 32 32 • • • • • • • • • „ 26th „ 9 a.m. •69 44 33 45 28 28 Noon •68 4» 35 ■ • • • • • 3 p.m. •67 40 36 • ■ • • » • „ 27th „ 9 a.m. •90 ^•5 35 48 31 19 Noon •91 41 36 • • • • • • 3 p.m. •89 40 36 • • • • • • • • ■ „ 28Ui „ 9 a.m. •94 41 32 48-5 28 28 Noon •94 49 36-2 • t • • • * 3 p.m. • . ^87 45-8 35-5 ■ • • • • « • • • ( 413 ) 1873-74, by Captain H. Trotter^ R.E.^ and his Asmtants. — (Continued.) Boiling point thermometer No. 17970 corrected valnes. Degrees. Boiling point thermometer No, 17972 corrected values. Degrees. Boiling point thermometer No. 17974. Boiling point thermometer No. 17976. Direction of wind. E. E.S.- W. w. N.E. N. N.E. W.S. N.E. S.W. N.W. S.W. S.W. E. S.W. s. s. S.E. s. E. S.W. N.E. N.E. E. N. N. N.W. N.S. N.S. N. N.E. "e." N. N.E. S. E. S. N. N. S. Remarks. Slight fall of snow. JPbr the month of February 1874. 9 a.m. Noon. '3 P.M. 6 p.m. Mean of Aneroid Barometer No. V.byTroughton andSimms ... 26*83 26-80 25*78 2679 Mean of Aneroid Barometer by Dixey ... 1 26*87 25-84 26-81 26*78 Mean of Dry Bnlb Thermometer... 34*8 40*4 38*4 31*5 Mean of Wet Bulb Thermometer... 31*9 32*8 33*2 Mean of Minimum Thermometer in shade ... ... ... 23°*6 Mean of Maximum Thermometer in shade ... ... ... 42°*6 Mean of Minimum in open . . . 16°'0 all ( 4>U ) Meteorological Observations at KASSOSAB during the winter of 1874-75, Aneroid harometer Aneroid harometer Tempbeatube Maximum Minimum Minimum * No. V. hy hy Carpenter, OF AlB. IN IN IN Date. Troughton and Simms corrected for Westley, and Dixey corrected for index SHADE. SHADE. open. Dry Bulb. index error. e^ror. Wet Bulb. During preceding 24 hours. Inches, Incheg, Decrees. Degrees, Degrees, Degrees, Degrees. Mar. let, 1874, 9 A.M. 26-91 49 39 49 27 29 Noon •86 61 38 • • • *•• ■ • • 3 P.M. •84 47 36 # * * • • • • > • » 2nd „ 9 a.m. -65 466 39 61-6 • • • 28 27 Noon •51 536 40 ■ • • Wm^^ 1 3 P.M. •44 61 41 ■ • • „ 3rd „ 9 A.M. »•■'•• •60 40 36 56 • • • 32 2i-5 Noon •49 42 38 • t • «^a# • • • 3 P.M. •60 44 39 • • ■ „ 4th „ 9 A.M. -74 43 40 47 36 u Noon •71 48-5 39 • • • f^\/ * • « 3 P.M. •69 49^6 41 • • • ,, 6th „ 9 A.M. '26-79 •79 43 39 60-6 ■ • a 37 ' ' ' 1 24 Noon •74 •73 60 40 *#■ • • « 3 P.M. 72 -70 48-3 41 ■ • ■ ... ' » 6th „ 9 A.M. •82 •80 386 36 62 • • t 31 20 ' Noon •82 •78 49 41 i^<& 3 P.M. •73 •73 466 40 • • • t » 7th „ 9 A.M. 72 •73 412 38 64-6 37*6 • • « 3 P.M. •60 •68 45 39 ^^ 9 S^ ■ • • „ 8th „ 9 a.m. 66 -64 34-6 33 '48-5 34-0 28-0 ' Noon •53 •62 37-6 36 %^ J* ^^ • • ■ 3 p.m. 61 •60 40-6 36 • • • • ■ • 6 p.m. •66 -64 38 36 • • ■ m • % „ 9th „ 9 a.m. •63 -63 36 32-5 42 33-5 275 ' Noon •63 -62 40 35 v^^^ ^^ ... t 1 3 p.m. •62 •61 44 37 • • • 6 P.M. •67 •66 37-6 34 • • • • ■ a M 10th „ 9 A.M. •80 •80 43-6 36-5 44*6 27-6 22-0 • Noon •82 •83 47 36 •»• %f 6 P.M. •87 •88 39-6 36 • • • 1 ,, nth „ 4 .-^ . « 9 a.m. 26-08 2609 44 39 48-6 26-5 i7^o : „ 12th „ 9 a.m. •12* •16 32-6 .30 60 29 26 Noon •12 •16 39 35 mm%^ 3 P.M. •08 •10 40 .36 « • • 1 6 P.M. •07 •08 37-6 36 a • • „ 13th „ 9 A.M. -03 •05 39 . .35-6 47 30*5 26 Noon 26-98 •00 44 38 *^\^ ^r 3 p.m. -97 2699 40 38 • • • 6 p.m. •97 •99 36-6 36 : • • • » 14th „ 9 a.m. 26-09 2611 37-6 36 ^46 33-6 :27-5 Noon •07 •08 ' 46 40 %r«# %f 3 P.M. -02 •04 41 39-5 ■ « • • • • „ loth „ 6 P.M. 9 A.M. Noon •06 •16 •16 •08 •19 •19 39 34-6 40-6 37-6 32 36 47 • • • 3J6 • • • 27-5 • • • 1 6 P.M. •14 •17 37-6 34-5 • • • „ 16th „ 9 A.M. Noon •20 •17 •24 •19 34 41 30 34 44 3i-6 if! 3 P.M. •11 •12 44 34 ■ • • 6 P.M. •07 •08 38-6 36 • • • • • • t « • • • • 1 ( 415 ) by Captain S. Trotter, S.M, and his Native Assistants. — fConcluded.J Boiling point Boiling point thermometer thermometer Boiling point Boiling point Til Tf^*^.^ cvn fn No. 17970 No. 17972 thermometer thermometer X/ild/biUll UX wind. Remarks. corrected corrected No. 17974. No. 17976. values. values. Degrees, Degrees. •••.•• s. N.- s. N. Far the month of March 1874. Barometer No. 9 a.m. Noon. 3 P.M. 6 p.m. s. V nTT TrrtinrTiiriTi .^^■^— — T • UV X jrUUcriilAJIl ^^^^^^ > r ■ N.B. and Simms ... 26*92 2690 26*82 26-93 N. Mean of Aneroid . N. S. N.E. Barometer by Dixey and Car- penter and Westley ... 26*80 26*78 26*72 Mean of Dry Bulb N. S. S. N. N. S.E. Thermometer... 39*7 44*9 44*6 38*0 Mean of Wet Bulb Thermometer... 36*7 37*6 38*3 36*6 Mean of minimum thermometer ... 31^*6 . • a . . S. Mean of maximum do. in shade 48^*6 f N. NW. S. N.E. N.E. S.E. S. N.E. N.E. N. N. N.W. N.W. N.W. Mean of minimum rod in open ... 24°'9 Snow falling. Snow at night. • •••••• S.W. N. N. N. N.W. • Heavy fall of snow during night of about 1 N.W. five inches. N.W. N.W. N.W. N. N. N.W. 206-26 206-26 »••■•. I N.W. N.E. N.E. N.E. N.E. N.E. N.E. N.E. • Pall of snow during night. GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX SECTION G. ROUTES ■■■■■iBaBi^ m GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. SECTION G.— ROUTES. INDEX. Pabt Lr^JRoutes traver^d by members and employes of tie Mission. Kmnber of Boate. I. n. in. ino. IV. V. VI. VII. vin. IX. X. XI. XIL From. To. T^rkand ... ... Leh (Ladakh) Bemarks. Authority. Ditto ... Leh Gkgra ... Yirkand ... Kitthghar Ditto Ditto ... Leh ShahiddU (No. 12 of Bonte I.) Ditto ... ... Kashghar Maralhlbhi Chadyr Kul Belowti Pass Tid S£nj6 and Kara- Dr. Bellew. korum Pass. Vid Kugiar and Kara- Ditto, komm P)r88. Vid Changchenmo ... Captain Biddnlph. Variation on No. III. Tangi Hissar (No. 8 Kila Fanjah (Wakhan) of Bonte IV.) KilaPanjah ... Aktish (No. 11 of Bonte VIII.) T^hkiirgh^n (No. 9af Tarkand ... Bonte VIII.) KilaPanjah ... KilaWdmur (Boshan) On road to Uflh Tnr- f&n. Fid Tashkdrghin and Little P&mir. Tid Great Pimfr. Vid Charling Biver ... $9 ft >» n Trotter. *> Biddnlph. Trotter. » Biddnlph. Y&rkand ... ... Aksd F»oortsee, but no grass visible. 10. Akt^gh (height 15,590 feet), £2i miles. — Road the whole way good, over a level plain, which was entirely covered by snow. About half way at east foot of low double-topped hill is a place called Tamba^ sometimes used as a camping ground. Ak-tagh is at the junction of the Karakoram and Changchenmo Routes. 11. Chibra 10 miles. — Road crosses stream and goes up ravine, steady ascent with fair but stony road. No grass or wood at camp. 12. Suget (height 12,970 feet), 18 miles.— Up ravine to top of Suget Pass (17,600 feet), 4 miles. Steady ascent and road good. Descent steep through the snow down zigzag, then straight down ravine for eight miles due north. Road stony, but descent gentle. Road then turns eastward and soon leaves the nullah, which has a very rapid fall ; an alternative road goes right down the nuUah in which there is plenty of wood and grass, abundance of both at camp. 13. Shahidula (height 1,780 feet), 8 miles. — ^The road descends to Karakash River (two miles) and foUows the river to camp, crossing it twice en route. Passage somewhat difficult. Plenty of wood and grass a few miles up the Karakash River. Shahidula is the same as Station No. 12 of Route I. * On tlu8 inarch we lost onr road and had perforce to halt at Tamba, where we found boortsee ; melted snow served for water, which is not proonrable here in summer. a81 ( 430 ) ROUTE rvr. YASXAKB TO KA8H6HAB (CAPTAIN TEOTTEB), NOVEMBEE 1873. 1. Eok Bob&t or '' Blue Hostelr/' (height 3,830 feet), 22 miles.— Pass through cnltivated tracts and at 4^ miles cross the Opo or Arpi canal (from the Y&rkand river) by a good bridge. A litUd distance beyond is the village of K£r£koram, after which the road passes through grassy swamps, followed by a desert waste. Occasional small villages are passed before reaching Kok Rohit, a scattered village of about 200 houses. 2. Kizil (height 3,910 feet), 26 miles. — ^Fass over sandy desert, without habitations or cultivation, to Ak Bob^t or '' White Hostelry,'^ where are two small wells whose sur&ce water is 98 feet below the ground level ; another 13i miles over flat waste to Kizil, a laige village of about 500 houses. The dry bed of the Kizil stream is passed, coming from the Eozil Tagh on the west. The country is irrigated by small canals taken higher up from the Kizil Biver which in summer contains a &ir supply of water. 3. Yangi Hissar or "New FoH/' (height 4,820 feet), 28i miles. Over a flat plain irrigated by small water-courses from the Kinkol Biver, the scattered villages of Chemalong, Kudok, Kosh-gombaz, Tuplok and Kalpin are passed. Low sand hills on right before reaching the Yangi Hissar Biver, which has its chief source in springs a few miles south-west of the town of the same name, which lies two half miles beyond it. Yangi Hissar is a large town with strong fort, and contains about 4,000 houses. The Yangi Hissar Biver^ is crossed by a two-spanned timber bridge, about 60 feet long. A low ridge of hills separates it from the town. The fort is about 600 yards to the north of the town. 4. Yapchan (height 4,210 feet), 23^ miles. — Pass at four miles the Zaik&sh stream fed from springs on the west, further on cross two branches of the Sailik canal from Kosink. After passing the villages of Kh&nka Sorgoluk, and Tuglok cross by a wooden bridge a large canal from the Kus&n Biver, and then cross the main stream of the Kus&n itself by a wooden bridge. The road follows the lower bridge of the stream for about a mile, and is much cut up by branch canals. Soil generally sandy. 6. Yangi-shahr or new city of Kashghar (14^ miles), — Boad passes through cultivated coun- try and crosses several streams and canals, the largest of which are the Tazgdn or Khanarik or Yamunyar and the^Karasu (chiefly fed from springs). Pass the villages of Tazgun, Turmalak, and Kasr Bobdt. The old city of Kashghajr lies about five miles from the Yangi-shahr in a north-west direction. BOXJTE V. Kashghab to Mabalbashi (atjthobitt, Captain Biddulph) Januaby lS74i. l: Sang, 19 miles. Through cultivation; at six miles village of Barin; 7^ miles Arowah, junction of road from city of Kdshghar ; nine miles village of Yandumba, from where goes cart road to Kizil Boia to east ; cross rivers Yamunyar and Chokanak flowing into Kizil, both bridges swift streams. Sang large village. 2. Faizabad (height 4,000 feet), 16 miles. — Large village, through cultivation; at two miles cross small river ; no bridge. 3. Yangi-awat, 11 miles.— Small village, cultivation almost ceases from Faizabad; at seven miles small village of Shagiat. 4. Kashmir, 28 miles. — ^Through bush jangal and plain ; at 20 miles cross river Kizil; bridge used in summer; ice bears carts, &c. in winter. Kashmir a small post-house, no village. 5. Togha Sulukh, 13 miles. — ^Through tree jangal and white grass ; a small post-house. * Whioh I hare known called bj no less than nine different names. — ^H. T. ( 431 ) 6. Shugeh^ 18 miles. — ^A small post-honse ; road all the way through tree jangal. 7. Maralbashi (height ), 14 miles. — Small village and fort; road through tree jangal and high grass. Maralbashi is at the junction of Kashghar road^ with road from Y^kand to Aksu. Carts travel freely all the way. ROUTE VI. Kashghae to Chadtkktjl, Captain Tbottee. Kashghar (Yangi-ihahr) to— 1. Besik; Upper Artysh (height 5^290 feet)^ 26 miles.— Road leaves on left at 5^ miles the old city of Kd^ghar^ and then crosses the Tuman (Efishghar) river by a good bridge ; passes through numerous gardens into an open stony plain^ and then through a gap in a low range of hills^ beyond which lies the district of Osten Artysh, consisting of numer- ous scattered townships. 2. Chung Terek, or "Big poplar tree, (height 7,000 feet), 20 miles. — Road passes over level plain and tiien up the gently sloping Toyanda valley. Road good but stony; pass en route the old Chinese outpost of Teshektash and the small village of Tupa ; a small Kirghiz village at camp. 3. Chakmik Forts (height 8,830 feet), 20 miles.— The road continues up the Toyanda valley and passes through precipitous hiUs rising some 3,000 feet above the bed of the stream, which has to be frequently crossed, both on this and the last march. At 12 miles pass the ''Past Kurghan'' or Lower Fort, garrisoned by a detachment from the larger forts at Ch£kmik further on. A few Kirghiz tents en route, but no other habitations. From Ch£km&k a road goes across the hills to the east tQ the Terekty Forts. 4. Balghun B&shi (height 10,540 feet), 10 miles. — ^The road continues up stream, and at about eight miles passes the Suok outpost at the junction of two streams from the Suok and Turgat passes. The former is two days' journey in a north-west direction by a very difficult road ; two miles above the outpost is the camp, where plenty of fire- wood, though but little or no grass. 5. Turgat Bela (height 11,090 feet), 15 miles. — Road always up stream at first through precipitous hills, which open out somewhat as the camp is approached. Occasional Kirghiz tents ; plenty of grass near camp ; but fuel very scarce. 6. To Chadyrkul (Lake), 20 miles. — 13 miles to the crest of the Turgat Pass, a gentle ascent right up to the foot of the pass, from which to the crest (12,760 feet) there is an ascent of about 400 feet in a distance of a mile. From the pass the road passes along a spur for about three miles, and then rapidly descends to the lake, which lies about 1,500 feet lower than the pass. Plenty of grass, but little or no fuel obtainable. The road from Kashghar to Chadyrki^ is good throughout, and could with very little labour be made available for light carts and field guns. In January a little snow lay by the roadside to the north of the pass, but none whatever on the south side. The route just described is on the main caravan route between Kashghar and Almati (Fort Vemoye), for details of which maps can be consulted. ROUTE VII. Kashghas to Bxlowti Pass, (Captain Trottbe) Fsb&uary 1874. fOn road to Ush Turfan.) Kashghar (Yangi-Shahr) to — 1. Altyn Artysh (height 4,100 feet), 22 miles. — Over plain for a great part of the way; road good; pass K^ashghar River by wooden bridge (in cold season), and subsequently ( ^2 ) cross two smaller streams and canals^ and traverse a low ridge before entering the Ariysh valley^ which contains numeroos villages aggregating perhaps 2^000 houses. 2. Kalti Ailik (height 3,950 feet), 22 miles. — Good road over level plain. 5. Kyr Bulak (height 5,340 feet), 33 miles. — Good road passes over plain and then through a range of low UUs up the Sogon stream, on which is a military ontpost, then crosses a low pass and emerges into a large plain. Camping ground is occasionally used by Kirghiz. 4. Jai Tupa (height 4,910 feet), 20 miles. — ^An occasional camping ground of Kirghiz ; water scarce ; situated near the centre of an extensive forest of stunts poplar trees ; good road passing over level plain ; plenty of g^rass and fuel. 6. Ui BuUk (height 6,650 feet), 27 miles. — Road good but stony ; crosses a low spur into the Ui Bulik valley, where plenty of fire- wood and a moderate amount of grass ; water scarce, but plenty of snow. 6. Tigarek, 17 miles. — Road up stream and then over a spur from the main range, stony, but otherwise not difficult. Tigarek is in a large grassy plain (no water) surrounded by hills ; is sometimes used by Kirghiz as a winter pasture ground, when snow is used as a substitute for water. 7. Belowti Pass (height 11,360 feet), 9 miles. — Road crosses some low spurs and then passes up a ravine ; a steady ascent of four miles followed by a sharp pull of two miles up to the pass ; no high peaks near the crest, but undulating grassy ridges. The road descends on the nor& side of the pass in the valley of the Koksh^l river. The Belowti Pass was the furthest point reached by Captain Trotter, and from it the marches to Ush Turfan were said to be as follows : — 8. Ak-chi, 10 miles, on Kokshal River. 9. Kuyok Tokai, 22 miles, down river. 10. SafrBai. 11. Karawal, 22 miles. 12. Ush Turfan, 16 miles. Total distance, Kashghar to Uch Turfan, 242 miles ; from Safr Bai (No. 10) a road is said to go to Karakul (near the old Issigh-Kul Fort) by four difficult marches, crossing the Bedul and the Zanku passes, and the head-waters of the Naryu River. From Karakul roads go to Kuldja and to Vemoye (Almati). ROUTE VIII. TANGI HISSA& TO KILA PANJAH, WAKHAN, BY THE LITTLE PAMIB (CAPTAIN BIDBULPH) march AND APBIL 1874. 1. Ighizyar (height 5,600 feet), 19 miles. — Large village. Road nearly due south, through sand-hills and cultivation, crossing two small streams, over soda plain for 5 miles, cross stream by village, and over stony plain for 7 miles ; practicable for wheeled traffic. 2. Aktala (height 7,845 feet), 17 miles. — Kirghiz camp, south-west four miles over plain to Aktala valley, then up valley 13 miles. At six miles pass through ruined Chinese fort closing the valley. Fuel, grass, and water abundant ; road good. 8. Sasak Taka (height 9,455 feet), 13 miles. Out of main valley, into side valley to south, first few miles narrow and stony, then opens out and travelling improves. Wood and grass abundant. Kirghiz camp at Sasak Taka. 4. Kaskasu (height 10,960 feet), 14 miles. — Kirghiz camp up valley; travelling good; grass plentiful, but fuel scarce. Several Kirghiz camps in the valley. 6. Chehil Gumbaz (height 10,810 feet), 8^ miles. — Kirghiz camp ; half mile from Kaskasu road turns up small vafiey to south, and at another mile is foot of Kaskasu Pass, first 200 ( 433 ) yards steep^ then for three miles winding through undulating grassy hills round head of valley to top of pass 13^000 feet^ road good half mile along narrow ridge then steep * zigzag descent of 1,000 feet into Charling valley to Cheml Oumbaz at junction of two TOlleys. Grass and water plentiful ; fuel scarce. 6. Past Bobat (height 9,370 feet), 9 miles. — Boad up valley to west for 2^ miles to foot of Torat Pass; li mile of ascent; not difficult for laden animals to top of pass, 13^400 feet; long steep descent into narrow valley ; road stony and bad; into broad valley, to south to Past Bobat ; Kirghiz camp at junction of two valleys ; grass, fuel, and water abundant. 7. T4rb&hi (height 11,615 feet), 8 miles, — Kirghiz four miles up valley to fork. The valley to the right leads to Tashkurghan by the Yambulak Pass, only used in summer. Up valley to left for two miles along narrow gorge, among rocks and boulders, the stream having to be crossed and recrossed more than a dozen times. Many hot springs in the defile, steep ascent of 400 feet into upper valley, when road again becomes good. This route can only be used when the stream is low in winter and early spring. 8. Shindi, 17 miles. — Up the valley for eight miles of gentle ascent to the Chichiklik plain, about li mile in diameter ; to south-west is the Kok Moinak Pass, used in spring and summer, by which Sirikol is reached in 1^ marches ; to north is the route by Yambulak Pass before mentioned. Bending to south a long descent, steep and stony, brings one to Shindi, whore are a few Sarikoli huts. 9. Tashkurghan (height 10,270 feet), 19 miles. — Down valley for four miles to Yirkand Biver. From here a road up valley to east leads over the Shindi Dawan to Tarbashi. Continues up Y^rkand Biver to foot of Tashkurghan. Boad good all the way. Grass and fuel plentiful. i 10. Kanshdbur (height 12,980 feet), 17 miles. ^Due west from fort into Shingan valley. The first three miles of narrow defile strewn with boulders, very difficult travelling, after which valley opens out and road gradually improves. Fuel and grass plentiful. 11. Aktish (height 12,600 feet), 18 miles. — Up valley to right, and after a mile up fork to left to foot of Nezatash Pass 15,000 feet. Three miles of gentle ascent, last 300 yards to top steep. Descend into valley running north-west along this for eight miles, over low spur into broad Aktash valley running south. Grass and fuel plentiful. 12. Ghiz Kul, or lake of Little Pamir (height 13,200 feet), 46 miles.— Down Aktash valley to south into Little Pamir due west, travelling excellent the whole way. Grass and fuel plentiful everywhere. Camp by lake. At six miles from the lake is Kabr-i-Bozai, deserted Kirghiz huts, opposite which is road leading to Kunjud by Tagdung-bash Pamir, over Kujroi Pass. 13. Langar (height 12,530 feet), 25 miles. — Continue due west; at 10 miles Pamir narrows into rocky valley, and travelling becomes difficult; road winding along face of hill with many small ascents and descents. At Langar deserted village ; fuel and grass plentiful. Opposite Langar is road leading to Kunjoot by Bykurra Pass, closed three months in the year. This is the road generally used between Wakhan and Kunjua. 14. Sarhadd (height 11,150 feet), 24 miles. — Down main valley, travelling bad; road much encumbered with boulders, and there are two steep ascents and three steep descents, very trying to animals. The stream has to be crossed many times, and the road in consequence of melting snow becomes impassable after 1st May. From Sarhadd road leads to south to Yassin and Chitrdl by Baroghil, Darkot, and Ishkaman Passes. Sarhadd is the frontier village of Wakhan. 15. Kila Panja, 55 miles. — ^Down valley to foot, road good for laden animals villages at intervals the whole way ; grass and fuel plentiful. By the village of Yur, 18 miles from Sarhadd, is a summer road into Mastuj. At Yost, 88 miles from Sarhadd, is a road leading into Chitrdl said to be only practicable to men on foot. a82 ( 434 ) ROUTE IX. KiLA Panjah (Route VIII) to Aktash by the Great Fahib (Captain Teottee), April 1874, Kila Panjah (Wakhan) to— =v 1. Langarkish village (height 9^850 feet)^ 6 miles. — Road lies along the banks of the main Panjah River, and then up t}ie northern branch ; pass on right bank the villages of Zang and Hissar. All supplie^or the journey across the Great Pamir have to be taken from Langarkish, which is the highest village on the north branch of the Panjah river. The vaUey is bounded by lofty and precipitous mpuntaius. 2. Yumkhdna or Jangalik (height 11,440 feet), 18 miles. — The road follows the right bank of the river, above which it rises in many places to a height of 1,000 feet ; cross the Ab-i-zer-i Zamin (River), four miles beyond which is the camp. Plenty of grass and fire-wood. 3. Yol Mazar (height 12,820 feet), 13 miles. — Road still along right bank of stream, at four miles cross the Ab-i-Matz (river) up which passes a summer road to Shighnan, two miles further is Boharak, the commencement of the Great Pamir. Plenty of grass and boortsee. Road good.* 4. Bilaor Bas (height 13,120 feet). — March along right bank of river through a grassy plain bounded on both sides by undulating hills. 5. Maz£r Tupa (height 13,760 feet), 20 miles. — Road up gentle ascent the whole way, and on the right bank of the stream. 6. Sarikol (head of the lake), (height 13,950 feet), 16^ miles. — Road up gentle grassy slope to Victoria Lake, passing along its northern edge. The lake is ten miles long and nowhere more than two miles in breadth. Camp at the east end of the lake ; whole ground under snow, but very fine pasturage iji summer. From Sarikol a road leads across to Langar, at the west end of the Little Pamir, crossing the Warram Pass. 7. Shash Tupa (height 18,760 feet), 19| miles. — Cross a low water-shed a few miles from camp and then enter a valley, the stream down which flows into the Ak-su riyer j very gentle descent through broad open valley to camp. Roads traverse the Pdmir here in all directions. 8. Dahn-i-l0ligh (mouth of the IsUgh River), height 18,220 feet, 18 miles.-!r-Gentle descent through open valley, pass several broad open ravines. This camp may be considered the termination of the Great P^mir. Plenty of grass and fuel. 9. Ak-tash (height 12^600 feet), 37 miles. — Road follows the Isligh River until it joins the Ak-su, both of these streams partially frozen, but ice breaking up making journey somewhat difficult. The Isligh River passes through precipitous mountains; after entering the Ak-si; valley turn south to Ak-tash, which is the san^e as station 11 of Route Vm. ROUTE X. Tashkubghak to Yarkand, via Chari^ing River (Captain Trqtter, fbom KisHEN Sing). Tashkurghan (No. 9 of Route VIII) to— 3. Chehil Gumbaz (No. 6 of Route VIII), 56 miles. 4, Tashkerim, 19 miles. — Road passes down Charling River ; Kirghiz encampments ; wood and grass ; pass on road Alumbitte Kurghan. From Tashkerim a foot-path leads across the hills to Kinkol camp. ( 435 ) 5. Khaizak-yil^ 14^ miles. — ^The road continues Sown Charling River. Pass on left bank at eight miles the small village of Bagh (30 houses)^ also the villages of Eiok-tash^ Mirgul (25 houses)^ and Yoya (15 houses). 6. Arpalik^ 21 miles.'— Road leaves Charling River and passes up a tributary stream to small village of Yamunarik. Thence goes over two low passes, the Kara Diwan (at IH miles) and the Eizil Diwan. 7. Kizil-tagh, 15i miles. — Road good for three miles to Tangitar, where the river (Kizil) passes for five miles along a very narrow ravine, very difficult to traverse in the after- noon owing to floods caused by the melting of the snow on the hills above. 8. Yak-arik, 28^ miles. — Good road over the '' Shaitan kum'^ or '' Devil^s sand/' 9. Ydrkand, 20 miles. Road passes over a well cultivated and thickly inhabited plain. Total distance, Tashkurghan to Yarkand, 188 miles. ROUTE XI. Route from Kila Panjah (Wake AN) to Kila Wdmar fBOSffAN) along the river Panjah, Authority Captain Trotter {from Abdul Subhan,) JZ5 . 2 3 N^amesof places. Ella Pan jah to K^ian- dat. .Rgish ... Shikharbi Ptiveshaz)... Flatur ... Yaghdigra (Doyaip) o^ 2nd. Bftfsb&r... NAwnntry or district. Distance in miles. Behabkb. 8 9 10 11 12 Darminkht Vidr Kila Bar PAnjah ... Sdcharb Eila WAmar Shighnin Ditto Ditto Ditto Boshan Total distance ... lU 14* 6* 9 22 Camp on the left bank. DarmiMkht is on the opposite hank from whence snpplies are procured by means of a wooden bridge thrown across the river, which is about 160 yards wide here. From KawalWUl at 3 miles is the large Tillage of Shekh Beg in rains, and fnrther on the road rons through a tunnel called Kuguz Parin* or " hole in the rock.*' Boad bad and stony. The Euguz Fuin in the boundary between Gh&ran and Shighn&n. A scattered Tillage of about 40 houses. At two miles from DarmaraLht a larse tributary of the Panjah riTer called Arakht is crossed by a strong wooden bridge. At 9* miles the road ascends and traTerses the Mithinz and Tarseb passes. Boad bad and stony. Supplies plentiAiL A lar^ town on the left bank, the capital of 8highnia. Adjacent to it stands a stone fort on the margin of the riTer. At Dasht-i-Ehust> the riTer Suchibi falls into the Panjah. At 8* miles is the small Tillage of Deh-i-Mur- ghin. Boad good. Supplies plentifuL A TiUage of 20 houses on the right bank. S^harb is reached by crossing the riTer either by ferry at Kila Bar Panjah, or by ford at the Tillage of Dishir at 3 miles lower down. Yumi Tillage is at 4* miles from Sacharb. Boad good. Supphes plentiful. A large town, the capi^ of Bosh4n» situated about 1* miles aboTe the junction of the Murghibi riTer with the Panjah. Fort and town on the high bank of the Panjah. At 13 miles is the small Tilkge of Pkst Ehiif . At 16 miles stands the Darband tower, built on a rock. This is the boundary between Shignln and Boshan. 161* ROUTE XIL YIkkand to Aksu. Atjtho»ity, Captain Chapman. Bhan Sikg. FBOM YABKAND TO AKStJ AND ONWABDS. 1. Yirkand, Terek Langaty 7 taih^ Ek Shamba and Char Shamba Bazaars en route; cultivation and gardens to within one mile of the halting ground. * Note. — A tash is the ordinary unit of measurement of distances in Eastern Turkistan, and on many of the principal roads tasK-hoards haTe been errected similar to the wooden sign posts, slaU existing in some parts of England. They were put up between Khotan and Eashghar shortly aiter the accession of the present Soler, but the Yarkand road the following measurements were made by Kishen Sing Pandit : — ' Knmber cf From 1st to 5th Tash Post 6th to 8th 8th to 11th » n »> »» 86,860 27,880 26,800 ATenge number of paces per tash. 9.112 92.93 8,933 Mean value of each tash ... 9»113 or almost exactly 4} English statute miles. Theoretically the tash is equal to 12,000 paces of a riding camel, and it is by means of this measure that the distances are said to have been laid out between Yarkand and Kashghar.— [H. T.] ( 437 ) Terek L^ngar^ a village of about 40 houses^ with two musjids^ in every house a room for the accommodation of travellers. 2. To Lai Lik, 7 task, through desert and low jungle ; at 4 tash a deserted Lingdr of the time of the Chinese ; at Lailik^ 22 houses> the inhabitants support them- selves by the entertainment of travellers ; supplies^ &c. 3. To Jfenut, 4 t(uA, through a jungle of high trees. The road within one tash of LaiUk (on tiie Yirkand side) approaches the Yarkand river; it is touched three times by the road during this stage. At Menut 16 houses in all^ accommodation for travellers ; sapplies^ water^ &c. 4. To Alaigur, 5 tash, through a jungle of high trees^ the river is encountered twice en route. At Alaigur 23 houses^ accommodation in each; suppUes and water; the river is nowhere crossed^ but the road follows its bank. 5. To Ahsdk Mardl, 3 task, through jungle as during previpus stage> the road approach- ing the river once en route ; 14 houses at the halting stage^ accommodation in each^ and supplies^ &c. 6. To Shamdl, 5 tash. Here is only an old rest-house^ but about a mile to the east on the bank of the river is a cluster of some six houses^ whence the traveller may get some suppUes ; the entire route through jungle. 1^'rom this point the river runs wide of the road. 7. To Mardlbdshi, 3 tash. High jungle encountered en route, but in patches^ there being here and there strips of sand and bog^ the only water being obtained from springs. A fort> and considerable place. Fide Captain Biddulph's report. 8. To Chartodgh, 3 tash. The spurs of a range of hills stretching out from the Tianshan are to the north of the road which runs through jungle with cultivation here and there^ the drainage from this point is into the Kashghar River from which canals are cut to Mfur^lbiishi and onwards ; there are about 40 houses in Charwilgh^ each having accommodation for travellers. 9. To Tumshuk, 4 tash. Half way a hill is to the north of the road under which the road immediately runs ; on the top of this hill is a M^zar and also one at the base. Captain Biddulph gives/ this hill the name of Pir Shereh Kuddam Mur- taza Ali Tagh, and thinks the rock must be basaltic. Beyond this hill is a f ort^ and at the distance of about a tash is a ruined ciiy at the base^ and on the slope of a second hill (this is one of the buried cities) the houses are of earth and not of stone. One tash further to Tumshuk, through a low jungle^ a place of 32 houses^ accommodation for travellers. A canal from the Kashghar river is crossed at 2 miles from Tumshuk by a bridge ; this is narrow and com- paratively deep^ being only some 10 yards across^ it runs away east. 10. To Chadyrkul, i\ tash, through a jungle of high trees; 15 houses. 11. To Taka Kuduk, 4 tash, through a jungle of high trees; water from a well about 30 feet deep ; there is a slight drainage from this point ; southwards towards the Y^rkand river about 12 houses in Yarkudut^ where travellers are accommo- dated. At this point the road divides into two> the shorter and more direct road going by — 12. Yazdah, 5 tash. High trees during half the march when these change to low jungle. No water en route, spring near Yazdah itself. About eight houses in Yazdah. 13. To Childn, 3 tash. Low jungle and sandy desert; no water en route ; 22 houses in Chil&n ; two large trees at this place which are conspicuous ; two tanks at Childn supplied by springs. The longer one by — 12 Snget, 4 tash, A deserted Ij&ngiT, but no water ; no one halts here ; if a halt is intended, water must be carried. a83 ( 438 ) 13 Childuy 6 t(Mh. A low jungle^ but no water on the surface ; but it may readily be obtained by digging. This is the easterly of the two roads. This road is closed after the winter season when the thaw sets in and occasionally when the springs swell and bring an extra amount of water. 14. To Choi Kuduk, 4 ta^h. Through desert without water. At Choi Kuduk water obtained from a well^ but the water is brackish. There is a large serai here with a musjid. Here is a low range of hills on the north-west^ close to which the road runs^ and behind which is the bed of the Kashghar Daria. 15. To 8ai Arii Langar^ 4 task. Through a desert^ with sand and small stones. At Sarek Linger there are two serais^ and a post for the examination of passports ; some SO or 40 houses with cultivation^ &c. \ water by a canal from the Kashghar Daria. 16. To Kumush or KumbdsA, 8 tasA. The Kashghar Daria is crossed at one mile from Sai Arik Linger. After the crossing there is a group of hamlets known as Aykol^ beyond this eastwards at about one and half tash is a considerable sheet of water ; in the district; which takes its name of Aykol from this^ are some 2^000 houses. Cultivation may be said to extend from Sai Arik L&ngdr as far as Aksd ; there is a bazaar held at Kum. In Aykol are two serais and a considerable bazaar (Thursday) ; the country is cut up by canals from the Kashghar river. The Kiim district stretches towards Ush Turfin and eastwards ; it is said to contain 8^000 houses. Kum Bazaar^ which is the head-quarters of this district, is off the road some 2^ miles. At the stage of Kumb&sh there is merely a L&ng&r. 17. To Aiiu, 4 tasA. After leaving Kumbish, about two tash, the Ush Turf&n river is crossed ; it runs in three principal channels, one of which is crossed by a ferry during the cold season ; the Kashghar Daria was crossed in four separate channels at some distance from each other, and all bridged. After leaving the Ush Turf&n river the i^oad rises to a plateau along the skirts of which it passes. It drops suddenly upon Aksu. A small stream from the north passes to the west of Aksu at about one mile distance and falls into the Aksti Daria about three miles south of the town. Total distance 73^ tash or 75^ tash from Y^rkand to Aksu. At Terek L&ng^r, the first march from Yirkand, the natives are Dulans, a tribe presum- ably of K&lm&k origin, having a distinct dialect of Turki and many customs different from those in force elsewhere; they extend as far as CAildn, the ISth march; they remain distinct from the natives of the Aksii and Yarkand districts. Kokshdl is the name usually given, not only to the Ush Turfan river, but to all the streams in the Aksu district, on account of the rice grown in the fields which they fertilize. Koksh&l (rice producing). Kok really means blue, all green things springing from the ground, are called Kok. From Aksu to UsA Turf&n — 1. To Sayik, 4 tash, through cultivation at the base of the hills and in the valley. 2. AcAtdgA, 6 tash. 3. UsA Turfdftj 4 tasA. Two serais in Ush Turfdn, the last two places are in the Ush Turf &n district, which is a separate command; it contains 8,000 houses, and is a highly productive district ; flocks and cattle abound. The water of Aksu is from springs, there is only one tank in the Yangi-shahr. There is a very large sale of horses in Aksu ; the Dadkhwah taxes the sale of horses, taking 12 puis on each transaction. On market day 600 loads of Indian-corn and wheat, 1 tanga per charak ; 300 loads of rice, 2 tangas the charak. There are 200 dyers in Aksu. 1. Khotan Serai, 60 rooms. 2. Kashgaree Smi, 60 rooms. 3. Sheik Beg Serai. 4. Mullah Sadok Serai. ( 439 ) SEBAIS IN AESU. 5. Dhong Serai. 6. Khona Serai. 7. Nar Kurgan Bai Serai. 8. Andijanf Serai. 9. Yarkandee Serai. There are three other serais within the walls. 1. The Custom House. 2. Charee Hakim Serai. 3. Kirghiz ditto. 4. Aid Darogah Serai. 5. Mahomed Tokhta Bai. 6. Badshahi Serai. 7. Higf Serai. 8. Kush N^juk Serai. 9. Imam Khwiya Serai. 10. Shnkutlik Serai. 11. Ahdullah Beg Serai. 12. Hikmut BaM Serai. Outside the noalls. 13. Eesah Kor. 14. Arjak. 15. AbduUah Bai. i6. Shah Mahomed Niaz. 17. Lalu Sheik. 18. YanoB Bai. 19. TddiBai. 20. Md sa Akhund. 21. Mahomed Tej Bu. 22. Abrahim. 23. Shamsh Akhdnd. 24. Toonganee Serai. There are altogether S3 serais outside the walls. Inside the walls there are 84 mnsjids^ and in the Yang^-shahr of Aksu 4 musjids. Inside the walls 800 shops; every house is a shop almost. Outside the walls 500 shops; 85 Coppersmiths; 33 Butchers; 22 Ashkhanas; 19 Bakers. Outside the walls ; 45 Coppersmiths ; 40 Bakers ; 84 Ashpaz ; 50 Shoemakers. The greater part of the population are in the suburb outride the walls. In the entire district of Aksd there are 30^000 houses. The principal merchants resident are — 1. Shumsh Tar Akhoond, — ^This man has agents who travel to Turfan^ Crumtsi^ and Hi; he is said to be worth 500. Yamboos. 2. Ahmed Shah Bai.*— He trades with Almati^ Kashghar^ Turfan^ t^rumtsi; property valued at 400 Yamboos. 3. Jait Darogah. — Trades with all the cities before mentioned and possesses property valued at 500 Yamboos. 4. Kassim Bai, Andijdni. — Property valued at 1^000 Yamboos : this is the principal trader. The tanab in Aksti district is measured in the square of 12 Eulaj (the length covered by the arms at sketch)^ a tanab is calculated to take 2 charaks of grain. Five tanabs make a putmun. The tax on crops is fixed by valuation for cotton. ROUTE No. XIII. FeOM AxstJ TO KUCHAR. AUTHORITY, CaPTAIN ChAPMAN. From Aks4 to Kuchdr. The tash on this road are marked on regular Tash posts. 1. To Jam^u, 4 tash, through cultivation and past frequent habitations; watered by small canals. At Jamgu two serais and a small bazaar ; about 50 houses. 2. To Kara-Talghdn, 3 tash. Kara (black) Yalgh^n (tamarisk), a low shrub jungle with willows, &c., tamarisk ; water from springs about half way. where are a few shepherds' hifts. 1 ( 440 ) S. To Tagh-Arik, 7 ioih, ((HUcanalJ Through desert and low hills ; at 3 tash there is a small plaoe of shelter for cattle known as a Dhong; at the 4th tash there is a similar shelter^ water procurable at both these places^ streams from springs ; at the 6th tash is a newly- constructed Karawul and some few houses with cultivation. About two miles to the south-east of this Karawul is a copper mine. The road here passes through a spur of the main range which is^ however, very low at tins point, canals. About 50 houses in Yagh Arik, a tank, gardens, &c. YagV Arik is in the district of Bdu 4. To Baiy 7 tash. For 1^ tash through highly cultivated district with gardens, houses, &c., to the bank of a river flowing south ; the bed of the stream nearly half a mile across and very stony, the stream is rapid even in winter and is divided into three channels ; the cultivation continues from the opposite bank all the way to Bai. This is a long stage and can be broken without difficulty at the hamlets en route, Bai is a walled town with three gates, and has its own Governor. There is a regular urda, four serais, musjids, &c., and three large tanks in the town ; there are 62 principal shops inside the walls ; there are two Madrassas and two schools. Bazaar is held on Friday after mid-day. There is a garrison of 200 soldiers, 4 Yuzbashis, and 20 Panja Bashis. There are six serais outside the walls of the town. It is estimated that there are 4,000 houses in the entire district of Bai. Mahomedan population of the same type as at Aksu. About 8 tash to the north of Bai are hot springs to which miraculous cures are attri- buted, the springs having been, it is said, called into existence by Hazrat Alii after a fight with infidels. There is a Ziarat at this place, and it is a place of pilgrimage ; the road to it is a very difficult one. 5. To Sairdntf 4 tc^h. The Bai district is left at about two miles from the walls; the entire road is through hamlets and cultivation, a considerable stream running • Shah-Y Ri through a shallow^ bed immediately after leaving Bai. Sairim is larger than Bai, but there are no walls round it. The Hakim is under the orders of the Governor of Bai. There are 16 serais, 11 musjids, 4 tanks, and 75 principal shops, the population of the district is approximately the same as that of Bai. Bazaar is held on Thursday. Intermediate between Bai and Sairdm and to the north about one stage, iron of a superior quality is obtained : this is only worked for local purposes. Grain is exceedingly cheap, and rice is grown, but in smaller quantity than in the Aksu district. « 6. To Toga Dhung, A single stage house, where provisions can be obtained ; water pro- cured from a distance, 5 tash. The road on leaving Sair^ very soon passes strips of cultivated ground and through a tamarisk jungle, 2 tash to Kizzil. Kizzil lies in a sandy strip ; a stream is here encountered flowing south ; there are willow trees and a few houses grouped on either bank ; the bed of the stream is 40 yards across ; from Kizzil to Toga Dhung a stony desert ; to the south there are small sand hills, and the road here takes a more northerly direction. 7. To Kuchdr, 6 tash. About two miles from Toga Dhung across a low ridge on the tx)p of which is a serai. This gives a better halting place than the last stage, but water is obtained at the serai with great difficulty and must be paid for, the road turns southwards immediately after crossing this low ridge. There is no cultivation to within about two miles of Kuchdr, but about 2 tash from the ridge is a Karawul in a gorge where the rocks appear to have been subject to volcanic action and are of a very dark color on a high hill to the north-east. At this point is a ruined city, the people commonly call this " Takht-i-Touran,'' the outskirts of these ruins are actually on the road ; the ( 4A1 ) hill is of bare rock and^ as before stated^ presumably volcanic^ but the ruins are of earth of a deep yellow color quite unlike anything on the hill itself; there are besides a large number of caves^ excavated for residence ; from below a high wall is visible^ which is said to be the wall of an old palace. The city is said to have existed previous to the first Chinese occupation ; the current story is that the city was consumed by fire sent down from heaven owing to the refusal of its ruler to adopt the Mahomedan f aith^ the blackened appearance of the rocks having given rise to this tale. From the Earawul to Euch^r proper is 8 task. Kuchdr is a walled ciiy of a circular form with four gates two of which have been lately closed. The garrison of Kuchar is as follows : — There are two Panjsads, 20 Yuzbashis, 50 Panja Bashis^ and about 600 soldiers; there are two schools and three Madrassas. The present Dadkhwah is Mahomed Tokhta Beg. There are 205 principal shops inside thewalls^ 100 of which are always open^ the remainder being closed except on bazar days. Four serais inside the wall; the city wall is surroonded by a ditch, which is kept full of water ; there are 140 shops outside the wall, 15 serais outside. The Tungani have a separate quarter; they have 45 shops and have 9 serais ; com is ground by mills in which horses are worked ; these are kept by Tiinganis ; the suburbs of the city are large in proportion to the rest of the town, there being only some 400 houses inside the walls, and 1,800 houses outside. The population of the district is said to be considerable, there being, according to calculated accounts, 22,009 houses in the district. Alum and salammoniac are brought from Euchar, and Pushum of a superior qualiiy ; it is considered the best obtainable. Rice is grown in small quantities, but this is produced in large quantities at Shah Yart, the south of Euchar, some 8 tash distant. About 16 tash to north of Euchar a large idol is said to exist, which is cut out of the rock ; it is rq>orted to be from 40 to 50 feet in height, it has 10 heads and 20 hands, and it is carved with the tongue hanging outside the mouth ; the mountain behind this idol is exceedingly difficult of ascent; rumour says that it is resorted to by game of all kinds, but that the animals, owing to the protection of the idol, cannot be killed by the huntsman. A mountain lake of considerable size is said to exist in this neigh- bourhood, the drainage of which falls into the Yulduz and makes its way to Elarashsdir. The idol referred to above is said to grow thin during the daytime, but to increase in size during the night. Salammoniac is obtained in large quantities from the neighbourhood of a volcano, which is at a distance of eight tash from Euchar; this sells in Euchar at 3 tangas the jing. The people of Euchar declare that a description of rat circulates freely in the flames of this volcano without being injured ; it goes by the name of Salamander. Surrundoo (alum) is also obtained in.^s neighbourhood, and seUs for a half tanga the jing. The farming of the salammoniac and alum is let out for 4 kuru9 jeanlj. There are copper mines between Ya^i Arii and Bai, There is no monopoly with reference to the mining for copper ore ; there are regular miners who can be hired by any one who chooses to try' for copper, the agreement with them being that they are to receive one-half of what is extracted. The copper is found in a low range of hills, and at a depth of from 80 to 86 feet; there is a smelting furnace on the spot, which is under Government supervision ; the charcoal and the wages of the smelters are paid for by the finders of the ore, and from the copper extracted onenseventh goes to the Government. It is usually calculated that the ore yields from one-ninth to one-eighth of pure copper which sells in Bai for 8i tangas the jing. ( 442 ) Route XIV. Route from Karghalik vi4 KHOTAN to Tankne. AuTHOEiTY Captain Teottbk prom Pundit Kishen Singh. I s. to 8 8 6 8 9 10 Names of itages. Eaighalik to Yakin Langar. ChoUk Langar Gdma (height 48^ feet). Moji Tillage (height 4290 feet). Piilma... J&W& or Zkwi Edrghin (height 4430 feet). Khotan City (Schi Shahr) (height 4400 feet). Ck>niitry or district Karghalik Gdma Ditto Ditto Ditto 18 20 28 24 85i Khotan IHtto 26 20 Yumng Kash (height 4870 feet). Dol Langar (height 4420 feet). Chlra (height 4220 feet). Ditto Ditto Ditto 8i 18 85 BlXABKB. A small village of fonr or fi^e houses onlj, oonntry well cnltiTated. At f onr miles is the village of Beshank, and at eight miles Lob village. Ckrt road all the waj. Yakin is a halting-plaoe for traders. Water, fuel* and supplies plentiful. A small village of 10 booses. At four miles is Khnah Langar, and is the bonndary between Karghalik and Gnma. Country np to Khnsh Langar is cultivated, tiie rest of the journey is over a sandy desert, and no water except in a reservoir at Dabsokum brought daily from Chulak Langar. Supplies plentiful. A small town and district with about 1,000 houses and a baiar of 800 shops. A Dadkwah or Governor and 200 sepoys are posted here. Two Langars or rest-housee are built on the road, vu., Silak Langar at 9i miles, and Hajif Langar at 14 miles. The Kilian river is crossed near Guma. Boad runs ot^ a sandy plain tiie whole way. A large village with a bazar. Boad through a level culti- vated country. At three miles the dry bed of a branch of the Kilian river, about 200 paces broad : is crossed. Sdp£ Khijam village is 9 miles, Cholo village of 60 houses 10 miles ; Mukhila Langar at 11 miles ; and the large village of Chuda at 19 miles. Boad over a sandy plaLi. Fuel and pasture plentiful. A large village and basar. At 2^ miles is Kosha Langar; at lOi miles Kondla Langar; at 14 miles Jhanguis, a large place with a fort The road from Sanju to Khotan joins at Jhanguia. The entire journey is over a sandy plain without habitation between Jhanguia and JPialma. Water, fuel, and pasture plentifuL Boad over sand hills all the way. Water scarce, to be bad only at Ak Bobat at 16 milea^ from a deep pudca well ; again at Imam Salar's tomb and at Jawa Kuigh£n, a Urge village and basar. Supplies plentiful. Boad over a cultivated country thickly inhabited through- out. The Karakash river, about half a mile wide with several channels, is crossed at 14 miles. Khotan is a large town, where a Governor and several hundnd sepoys are posted. Numerous canals from the Karakash river intersect a large area of country around Khotan. At a distance of 16 miles north-west is the large com- mercial town of. Karakash. A large place of 600 shops. At 2\ miles the river Yurung Kash, (the same size as the Karakash) in two channels is crossed The road for several weeks is flooded in hot weather. Jade and gold are found up the stream. Boad good, and rich cultivation all round. A large village of 160 houses. Excellent road, thickly inhabited, and rich cultivation all through the journey. At 10^ miles is Lob village and bazar of 60 shops. A town on the banks of a small stream with a bazar of 160 shops. Boad as far as Ak Langar. The first 6 mOes over a sandy plain covered with jungle. Elman Bazar 10 miles; Beshtoghrak Langar at 16 miles; Aisma Langar at 26 miles ; Yakin Langar at 80 miles : all these places have rest-houses for travellers, with water and supplies. No cultivation except at Chira. ( 443 ) ROUTE XIV. Boute from Karghalih Ti& KHOTAN to Tanhe. — (Continued.) 11 12 18 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 Names of stages. Karikia Langar Eiria Bazar (height 4^580 feet). Country or district Khotan Ditjbo Toghrak Langar ... Polu Tillage (height 8i4S0 feet). Khiikde Camp Ditto Ditto 26 27i 23 82 Ditto GhubolikCamp (height Ditto 16,960 feet). Aksu Camp Arash Camp (height 16,020 feet). Eiria Daria-i-bash Eul (height 16,880 feet). Camp .•• ... Nikong Chnmik ... DakniUc Camp Ditto Ditto Ditto Ra4ok Ditto 17 25i Ditto m 12 16i 22 m 25 BlUABKB. A small village of 10 honses. Koad over an open country. At lOi miles is the Tillage and bazar of Gdlukma ; at 16i miles Domakd village ; from thence the country is covered with high forest. Supplies plentiful. A large town and bazar of 600 shops ; at 5 miles is Ta Langar ; at 9i miles Siasgol ; at 14^ miles Yaka Langar ; at 22 miles Phundra villa^ of about 100 houses. From Yaka Langar to Eiria country thickly populated and extensive cultivation. Felt is manufactured at Eiria. A branch road goes from Eiria to Sorghik gold fields as follows:— 1«< JforeA, Toghr^ (height 5,760 feet), 15 miles, a village of 50 houses, road over sand hills. No habitation except at Oi Toghrak. Eiria river 500 paces wide (with several channels), crossed near Eiria. 3M Mwreh, 15 miles, a rest-house with scanty cultivationr ound it. Road open and over sand hiUs. Snf Marcht Sorghak (height 7,060 feet), 84 miles, a pkce famed for its gold fields : these fields are worked all round the year by men from Eiria, who with their wives and families sleep in temporary huts. One-fifth of the produce is paid as a tax to the ruler of Eashghar, who also purchases the remaining produce at a fixed rate. A small village of 5 houses. Road through cultivation at 15 miles, the rest-house of Bughuz, to east of which, at 200 yards, is the Eiria canal here called Toghrak Ustang. A village of 50 houses with scanty cultivation. Road runs along side the river over a plain for 8 miles, to where the river issues from a mountain gorge, up which the road passes to within 2 miles of Polu, when the river turns off to south-east. Road good. Road, stony and bad, runs along the valley of the Eh^rap or Polu river to Ehiakde. A little fuel and grass. Gold dust is found in the stream here. Camp near Ulugh Shahi Eul. A lake with sulphur mines in its neighbourhood. For 6 miles from Ehiikde the road runs along the Polu stream through a narrow gorge between hills called Tangitar, then ascends the Ghubol^. At Diwan Pass, difficult for laden ponies. A gradual descent from thence for 14 miles to Ghubolik. Road bad at the pass. Grass, fuel, and water plentiful. Camp on grassy plain between two small streams. At 12 miles a small pass crossed. Road good. Fuel and grass plentiful. Ciunp on northern bank of the Eiria river. At 8 miles the Eizil Diwan pass is crossed. Road good, but stony at the pass. Grass and fuel plentiful. Camp on small lake, the source of the Eiria river. Road stony and bad, slightly ascending to the lake. Grass scarce, and fuel plentiful. Camp near a small stream. Grass and wood plentiful. At 16i miles a pass is crossed forming boundary between Eashghar and Thibet, Camp on an extensive plain, with grass and fuel at hand. A mile from camp a pass is crossed. At 10 miles road runs along the west bank of the Yeshil Eul lake (height 16,160 feet). Grass and wood plentiful. Water scarce. Road g^ood the whole way. Camp on an extensive plain. Grass and wood plentiful. Road along the banks of a dry water-course. ( 444 ) ROUTE XIV. Boutefrm Karghalik vi& KEOTAN to ra«-i»«.— (Concluded.) o . 28 24 25 26 27 28 39 ao 31 82 38 84 85 Names of stages* Tashliak Eul (height 16,620 feet). Chomik Lakmo (height 16»600 feet). Lngraog Camp Sumsd Ling* (height 15»670 feet). Angche Chiortan ... Koh Tillage Pal Dal Aot Thakung #•• Shashul LungBarma Tankse (Station Y of Bonte III) (hdght 12,900 feet). Coontry or district. Rudok Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ladakh Ditto Ditto Ditto From Tankse to Leh, vide Koute III. Total distance ... 28i 27i 19 17 81 10 20 21 12 29 81 24 742 BlXABXS. Camp on the northern edge of a fresh water lake. Two small passes are croaned, one at 10 miles and the other at 26 miles. Boad good. Grass and wood plenti- ful. Camp at the hase of low hills. At 9i miles the road nxns along the eastern edge of the Mangchaka or Mangtxa lake. At 13 miles ascends a low range of hills. At 19 miles passes a small lake. Boad good. Water from a neighbonring spring. Wood and grass plentiful. Camp between a range of hills. A pass crossed at about a couple of miles from Chumik Lakmo, from thence the road to Lugrang along bed of a partially dry stream. Water scarce. Wood and grass plentiful. Camp on left bank of Rudok river. At 4 miles the Ekiugla (pass) is crossed, from thence along the Budok stream to Sumzi Ling. Road stony. Fuel and grass plentiful. Camp on right bank of Naichu river. Road for 8 miles good, at 10 miles ascend a pass, from thence abng the river to camp. Wood and grass plentif uL A small village of 25 houses on the Naichu river. Sparse cultivation. Road good and along the stream. Rudok lies about one long day's journey (by a circuitous route) to the south. Camp on the upper or east end of the Fangong Lake called here Chomo Ngala Ring Cho. Road in a westerly direction and along the banks of the Lake but yery stony. Water good. Wood and grass plentiful. Camp on the Chomo Ngala Ring lake, jload stony, along the edge of the lake. Water good. Fuel and grass plentiful. Camp on south side of Ftogong. Road crosses the lake by a shallow ford near encampment. About 2 or 3 miles north-west is the ruined fort of Khamak. Water fuel and grass plentiful. Camp on south side of lake near a mountun stream which falls into it. Scarcity of fresh water. Road stony and along banks of the lake. Wood and grass plentiful. A village of 80 or 40 houses, with sparse cultivation. Road good, and supplies plentiful. Good caminng ground in the Lungchu valley. At 4| miles from Shushid cross Gongta-la-pass, from thence along river ba^k. Road stony. Fuel and grass plentiful. A village of 50 or 60 houses, with some cultivation. Road stony and along Lungchu stream. Fuel and grass plentiful. * The Flandit's thermometers were broken here. ( 445 ) ROUTE No. XIYa. Yabkand to Khotan. AuTHOEiTY Captain Chapman (oompilbd prom Notes by Eamghanb). FBOM YiRKAND TO KHOTAN, BY KABGHAMK. Fkoh Slargh&lik to Eg^n^ two tash^ across a ravine and for four miles across desert^ and then entering cultivated land which continues for two miles^ after which there is desert close up to Egun^ beyond Egun desert^ at three miles a Langar (Gombaz) with tank and two old tombs ; eight miles beyond this through a bare desert to a place where a tank (containing about 20 mussuks of water) is prepared and covered in. Water is brought to this daily (one donkey load) from a distance of ten miles^ under the orders of the Hakim of Ouma. Beyond this 10 miles through desert to Chul^k (Langar)^ where there is a tank. This is the usual halting stage^ and there is a post here for the examination of passports. From ChuUk^ 13 miles^ to Serik Langar through desert. These Langars are all com- fortably fitted up for travellers. Four miles beyond this is another Laogar^ where are trees and water ; at this point the road divides^ one going direct to Khotan and the other to the Guma Bazaar ; six miles to Ouma by taking the direct road^ and not going to Guma about four miles are saved^ but all Bahdaris (passports) have to be shewn to the H^kim of Guma. Guma is a considerable place ; its district comprises that of S^nju. It extends from Egun to Pi£lm£ in the Khotin direction^ and southward as far as the S^nju pass. Guma^ for three miles through cultivated ground^ then through desert for 12 miles to Mocha. Here is a comfortable rest-house prepared by a Mullah where travellers are entertained. A road diverges at this point to Sdnju^ which is distant 15 miles. From Mocha (or Moji) for about 14 miles through desert to Zungo^ or Jhanguia ; here is a small bazaar^ and the place is surrounded by a wall bmlt in the time of Habbibulla ; cultivation beyond this for some two miles^ where there is a Langar^ after which there is desert for 12 or 15 mues. Here there is a Langar^ but no tank^ only a well of extreme depth from which water is drawn. Five miles to Pi^lmi. Here there is a small bazaar. From Pi^lmi 15 miles to Ak-Bob&t. Here is d new rest-house prepared by the Amir's orders where travellers are entertained ; there are two wells in the court-yard^ which is 100 feet square : these wells are deeper than the one at the last Langar. Here there is a very high pole upon which a bell is hung^ in order that during storms of sand travellers may be directed to the rest-house ; during the night it is cus- tomary to place a light on the top of this pole for the same purpose. There is a reg^ular establish- ment for the care of the serai. From Ak-Bob&t five miles to the Mazir of Im^m Maho- med Shah. This stands in the middle of a desert ; a large number of pigeons are kept by the Shaik custodian^ for which a regular allowance of grain is made ; the road is through a heavy sandy desert. There is a high pole at tkis point with a bell on it similar to the one at Ak- ' Bob&t. Through desert for five miles to Jawa : this is a small village of 20 houses^ also sur- rounded by a wall in the time of Habbibulla ; there is a post for the inspection of passes and for search for gold and jade carried out of the Khotan District without permission. This is the point where the Atalik halted before the capture of Khotan^ and from whence he enticed Habbibulla into his camp. To the east of this village is a considerable stream flowing from the Sdnju Diw&n^ which is crossed by a wooden bridge built after the fashion of Kashmir bridges. This is about 20 yards across. On the other side is a regular rest-house for the Hakim of superior construction. From this point cultivation and habitations extend uninterruptedly to Khotan at a distance of 25 miles. Ten miles from Jawa the K^r^tk^h is crossed^ where the breadth of the bed of the stream is about 400 yards. On the bank of the K&r&kiBh there is also a rest-house built to accom- modate travellers detained by the rising of the river. a85 ^ ( 446 ) Seven miles short of Khotan is Do-Shamba Bazaar: this is a small village. Marches, Stages, 1. Posgdm. 2. Kargh^lik. 5. Egun. 4. Chul&k. 6. Ouma. 6. Mocha. 7. Zungo^ or Jhanguii. 8. Viilmi. 9. Ak-Bob£t^ a short stage owing to heavy sand. ' 10. Beyond Jawa^ to the banks of K4r&kdsh. 11. Khotan (Ilchi). A road starting between ViSAmi, and Ak-Bob&t makes np the K^r^k&sh valley to the Suget pass and the Kir&komm. To the east of Khotan and flowing close to the Yangi-shahr^ 600 yards oatside the wall^ is the Yurung K^sh River ; the bed of this stream is 600 yi^s broad^ and in the dry season it flows in two channels ; the road is often closed in this direction. Niaz Beg attempted the construction of a bridge^ which was carried away by the stream. From Khotan up the valley of the Yurung K&sh to Lad^k ; this was the road taken by Jumma Khan ; it is said to be very difficult. From Khotan (Ilchi) by 6 marches in a southerly direction crossing the Yurung K£sh at (Ilchi)— 3 tash to Sumpula. 3 ,, Hasha. / These six marches are through 3 ,, Ounjutagh. f cultivated lands by small vil- 4 fj Nura. \ l^es; no river encountered. 4 y, Im^m Mazir. 5 „ Polu. Fifteen marches from this point by a comparatively easy road to Changthang where the road between Leh and Lhassa is joined. Grass and wood during the entire route. Changthang is from 12 to 15 marches distance from Leh. Water is procured by digging. This is a summer route ; it was pursued by Nujjuf Shab^ Envoy of the Maharaja of Kashmir^ in 1864^ with Nika^ Moguls who is now in Khotan. The province of Khotan is divided into the following districts :— Ilchi (Khotan proper), Kdrdk&sh (a Beg). Keria (a Beg). Chira (a Beg). YuruDg Kdsh united with Ilchi. Nia united with Chira. The city of Khotan is of an irregular form^ the circumference being approximately a mile. The Fort and Urda of the Hakim are outside. The old Chinese wall round the town has fidlen into ruin^ but a wall now stands encircling the town and a large portion of the district at some considerable distance from the place itself : this is said to be some 20 miles in circuit. The gate through this on the Yirkand road is H miles distant from the town. Khotan is the great manu&cturing city in the Amir's territory. The province yields very little cotton and very little grain^ these being imported from Kashghar and from Guma ( 4.47 ) and EarghiUik. Copper comes from Aksd and is worked into vessels^ in great &Yor throughout the country. Bice is obtained from the same place. Khotan is the great silk-producing province. Its gold mines and supply of jade are sources of wealthy the population^ however, remain poor owing in a great measure to their indolence, work being taken up only as there is immediate necessity for the supply of daily wants. The immorality of the women of Khotan is proverbial, and the excess of women over men leads to much licentiousness. The inhabitants are chiefly artizans as distinguished from the cultivators of the other provinces of the Amir's kingdom. The resources of this province may be best arrived at by reviewing them separately. ^ Sorghik. Gold mines Kappa. Chuggulaka. Charchand. C K&rdtagh. There are said to be altogether 22 places in which this mineral is found, but the above are those which are regularly worked. 3,000 people are employed at Sorgh^^k ; the mine at this place is said to be 400 feet deep. 4,000 people are employed at Kappa; the mine is said to be 100 feet deep. At the other places there are no more than 40 or 50 workers. The Sorgh&k gold is obtained in small beads and is of a red color. At Kappa, large nuggets are obtained, but the gold is of a light color and mixed with sand. Gold is also obtained in the Yurdng El^sh sands after the flood of the hot season has passed. The only tools used are a pick and shovel ; no sieve is in use, but the soil is dug out in blocks and disintegrated by the heat of the sun. The sieve is used in extracting gold from the sand of the Yurung Kish river. On this last there is no tax paid. The working of the mines is thus conducted. The workers are the poor of the country who sell the gold they obtain to established buyers, who keep a supply of utensils of food, &c., to meet the requirements of the workers. From these gold purchasers one-fifth of the yield is at once confiscated as the property of the Amir, who retains the right of purchasing any further quantity he may require at 120 tangas per ser (the market value being 138 tangas the ser). The whole of the gold obtained is indeed supposed to be purchased for the Amir, but a larg^ amount finds its way surreptitiously into th3 market. On the road between Keria and Khotan there is a regular searching house where men are stripped if they are supposed to have concealed gold about them, women are examined and are then made to jump over a ditch, in order that any gold they have concealed may fall out. No large guard is Kept at the mines, but a small detachment of soldiers watch the proceedings of the buyers. The officials, however, even to the Beg of Keria, who is in charge, are said to be open to bribes and to study their own advantage. The punishment for secreting gold is very light. The probable yearly yield of gold in the Khotan District is said to approach 7,000 sers, of which 5,000 sers,- reach the |Amir and about 2,000 are smuggled into the market. The sale of gold is winked at, though disallowed. If a merchant is discovered to have obtained gold, no more than one-fifth will be confiscated, and the remainder is purchased at th^ fixed price. Gold is readily bought up by merchants from India and Andijdn. A profit of one-eighth may be realized by conveying Khotan gold to either country. Silver is also found in the province, but the yield was found insufficient to pay the working expenses and the mine opened has been abaudoned* ( 448 ) Jade is obtained near the bed of the Yurting E&sh. There are two principal minee, one at a distance of 15 miles and the other at 25 miles from Ilchi. It is also procured from the bed of the river. The tax on the working is one-fifth part paid into the treasury^ and a tax of 1 in 40 from all traders who carry jade to other places ; besides this all pieces that are of superior size and quality are bought up at a price fixed by the Dadkhwah of Khotan. The old skilled carvers of jade have almost disappeared since the Chinese have been ejected. The mines and the working of the jade were closed until two years ago when Chinese traders began to reach Alm^ti. The Amir^ however^ allowed the market of Almiti to be flooded the first year and so much of the jade carried there from Ehotan was inferior that it was not purchased^ but returned to Ehotan in this year. The value of large pieces of this mineral may be judged by the following &ct : — Quite lately some five men obtained a large block of a good description weighing some 40 jings ; it was taken before the Dadkhwah, who purchased it as it was^ in an uncut state^ for 12 yamboos^ the market price fixed upon it was however 60 yamboos ; there was however no single merchant rich enough to purchase. The existence of gold and jade is necessarily demoralising to the population ; the number of workers in jade fluctuates^ but the supply is in no wise exhausted. Coal is said to be obtained in the Euen Luen^ but it has not been used since the Chinese were in authority; it was then brought from a considerable distance to Khotan. Silk. — From the earliest time Khotan has been celebrated for its silk manufactures. Sericul- ture in Khot^ is the same as already noted in Yangi Hissar, this is purely a domestic business : there is however a regular sale for cocoons in the market^ the purchasers are regular traders who sell again to the reelers who purchase as they are in want of cocoons. There are poor people who dispose of the spun silk in the markets^ which is chiefly bought by Andijdni merchants; there are however a great number of silk weavers (these color their own silks). Silk cloth made at Khotan is not exported, but spun raw silk goes in large quantities to Andijin. It is also found profitable to send the *' waste'' to the Almiti market, where it is purchased for Russian paper manufactories (it is a rumor that Russian notes are made from silk ^^ waste''). Reeling does not go on during the winter season. The white, black, and red and a fruitless mulberry are all known in Khotan^ but the worms are fed only on the leaves from the fruitless tree and from that yielding a black fruit. The produce of silk in its various stages, from the tending of the worm to the final ope- ration, affords occupation to the bulk of the population in the Khotan province. There are two kinds of silk, the white and the yellow, the latter being most esteemed : this is known as ^^ Taiful," and is chiefly bought up for Andij^n ; the former is called " Kalawur," each of these are classed in two classes. As a rule the silk is reeled off on a single chirka, but lately an Andij^ni has set up a wheel working 16 reels at one time. Carpets. — Khot&n carpets are celebrated for the excellence of their manufacture and for the variety of their patterns ; they are made at three places in the Khotan province, more particularly Sumpula, Yurting K^sh (Char Shamba Bazaar), and at another village on the Keria road about three tash from the city (Se-Shamba Bazaar). Carpets are made of silk and of wool, gold thread is also sometimes worked into the silk carpets. The wool used in the carpets is chiefly obtained from the hill districts through the Kirghiz ; it is spun off and sold in the weekly bazaars. The dyeing is carried out by the carpet-makers. The mordants used are — alum for dyes of yellow, brown, and red, and their various shades. Grape juice for blues, and for mixed colors. If green, the wool is first dyed yellow then put into an indigo solution. If purple, it is first dyed red and then put into an indigo solution. The dyes are indigo, madder, tookmuck (a seed), ^bukum.' ( 449 ) The price of labor is exceedingly cheap in the Khotan District^ and the carpet makers are hired as required by those who are rich enough to purchase the materials and set up the frames. There are two kinds of frames^ standard^ which are placed perpendicularly^ and long flat frames near the ground ; the latter are usually required for very large carpets^ but the standard frames allow of better work being done. The size of the carpets ranges from the small saddle carpet on which one man works at a time to carpets 8i yards wide, upon which 10 men are employed at one time. The pattern is given out by head of the party whom they term Aksakal. The patterns do not exist on paper, but are passed on from master to pupil and so remain from generation to generation. There are some 200 masters who are known for their carpet work. It is to be noticed that in comparison with other parts of the country sheep are very abundant in the Ehotan province, and that the wool is Khotan lamb skins of white color, form tihe linings of hats and posteens. r Men employed in carpet making under the Government receive 20 phools daily each man, and are not supplied with food; in ordinary houses, the daily wages is 10 phools and food for the day. The copper vessels made in Khotan are superior to all others prepared in the Amir's terri- tory ; they are worked in a variety of patterns. There are about 30 shops at Khotan (Ilchi) where these are made. The copper, as previously stated, is obtained from Aksu. Vessels for tea and for water are those principally made, the iron vessels from Russia being preferred as cooking utensils. Patterns of various kinds are cut upon the Khotan copper work in very neat fashion. Iron. — Iron work, stirrup irons, spoons, knife handles, &c., made of iron are inlaid with copper wire, which is usually of English manufacture and is obtained from Hindoostan ; there are some 12 masters in this work at Khotan ; the pattern is cut out in the iron of the stirrup, spoon or whatever article it is intended to ornament, and the wire is run into the pattern and the whole heated in the fire. Hides. — Cow hides are largely exported from Khotan to Y^rkand with sheep skins and ^oat. This is due rather to the existence of a large number of cattle and sheep in the Khotan province than to superiority in the manner of preparation. Skins of animals obtained in the Kuen Luen are also exported for the lining of posteefts. Sandal-wood and tea (brick) are obtained from the buried cities. The sandal is worked into beads, and the tea is sold in the market. The buried cities proper are said to be at a distance of many marches to the east of Khotan. A discovery of buried ruins has, however, lately been made quite close to the city of Khotan (Ilchi) at a distance of about four miles to the north-west. A cultivator working in his field was watering his crop ; on the water suddenly disappearing into a hole and continuing to be absorbed, he dug up the place where the water disappeared and obtained a golden ornament said to have been a cow. Lately excavations have been ordered by the Dadkhwah and more gold has been found; the diggers are paid for any gold they may excavate at 110 tangas the ser. In the beginning of April 1874 a gold ornament of about eight sers weight was found by a man who had gone out in search of charcoal — this was in the shape of a small vase and had a chain attached to it. Rumour declared it to be neck ornament of the Great Afrasiab, and the finder was declared to have hit upon the spot where Af rasiaVs treasure was buried ; he was paid for the ornament at the rate of 100 tangas the ser, and a party was at once organized to search the neighbourhood. At present no fresh discovery has been made, and I cannot in any way fix the locality, but it is at no great distance from Khotan itself. Pbicss. Cotton eloth, Kdm, per than ( 7 ymrds X \ yard) „ Tolma, „ ( 7 „ „ „ ) Ckakman „ (22 „ X J „ ) Kummerband (10 girras X 2| yurds) .. 1 30 2 4 1 a86 25 0 0 ( 450 ) Mixed cloths of cottok and bile. (Tazina (10 yards X 9 girras ) per than ... ff (10 y, I, tf ) ff rio* «» Mushroo { 7 „ X i yard ) „ >» \ • »» >» »» / »» • • • • • • This is largely exported and is in general use in the province ; it formerly obtained nearly double its pressent price^ but the introduction of a large quantity of red chintz (Gul^niLr) from Russia has swamped the market. Mushroo is both dyed and stamped. SiLES. Tanffos. Pkools, Dariaye (7 yards X i yard) per strip ... ... ... ... 6 0 Tanffos, PhooU. 6 0 4 0 7 0 6 0 ft 3 0 20 0 17 0 (7 „ „ „ ) „ No. 2 ... ... ... 4 0 Silk Cbakman (13 yards X i yard) (13 „ ,. „ ) No. 2 This is chiefly sold for the making up of chog^^ the coloring of the strips is invariably made in pairs ; the size of the than is however arranged so as to make one choga. This silk is largely used for chogas throughout the country^ but is not carried across the frontier. 2\ing€U, Phaols. Shiaye (7 yards X i yard), Nos. 1 and 2 ... ... ... ... 16 0 I>orooya(7 » ,, »» ) » ,, ... ... ... 10 0 These descriptions are largely imported from Andij^n^ the manufactured articles of Ehotan being coarser than those from Andij&n. Numdahs for spreading on floor — Tangos. PhooU. Banging from the prayer Nnmdah ... ... ... ... 2 25 To large Nnmdahs at ... ... ... ... ... 20 0 They are made largely at Yurung Edsh. Tcmgcu, Phools. Numdahs for packing bales of merchandize of a dark color ... ... 1 10 Bope is made from the bark of the mnlherry and also from hemp, which is, however, very little srown in this province, each rope ... ... 2 0 Hope is also made of worn, per rope ... ... ... ... 2 0 There is no large sale in the Ehotan market for foreign goods, nor are there established merchants in Ehotan who trade across the frontier; the result is that goods are not so easily disposed of as in the Y^rkand market, and there is more difficulty in obtaining by barter articles required for a return consignment. Shrines in the Province of Ehotan to which pilgrimages are made are — Iih&m Akbar, Mazar, in the Edrikish valley. „ Asg^r „ „ „ " iiTm '' I ^^^ ^*'"- I Y^^S ^^ ^*"^- ,, lehran at Chira. Nasrudin 9} 9f ^^f :::^Aii..M.,««gh. „ Mayaudin „ Azail ... Eerai. „ Saydlik ... Nia. Lungi Ehanem, the gift of Im&m Jafir Sidik, at Nia. Im&m Jdfir S^k, in the desert beyond Nia^ the principal pUkce of pilgrimage from Ehot&n. Imim Musa Easim, at EhotiLn. ( 451 ) Trees known in the Khotan district are — Sqf(^da, poplar, six kinds Willow, four kinds Jigda, three kinds Peaches, three kinds ... Plums, black and white Pears Quince. Pomgranate. Mulberries, black, white, and red berries. Grapes of four kinds ... Tarek Kara Tarek Kuppuk Tarek Hangi Tarek Malja Tarek Tagh Tarek Suffet Tetoo Suget Kara „ Ta^h „ Singh „ Jigda Khazi Kunkkisk Jigda ;a Jigda n ft (ZardAlii .. \ Sia (ita {Tenista Khurmani Ookcha Amrtft. {Kismis or Kishmish. Munaka, and white Munaka. PI a •pi* u I I I o The raisins of Khotan are exported to Ydrkand and Kashghar; sugar is also made, from the grape and exported. GEOGRAPHICAL APPENDIX. SECTION G.— ROUTES. Fart II. — Routes in TurleHan derived from verbal information supplied by natives. ROUTE XV. KUCHAR TO KaRASHAHB, AUTHORITY CaPTAIN TeOTTER, COMPILED FROM VARIOUS SOURCES. Kuchar to — 1. Yakar^ 4 tash. A small village. 2. Aw£t^ 6 tasb. Small village. 3. Bugar or Buigar or Bighol^ 6 tash. Cross a river flowing south. Town and district containing about 100 houses^ snowy mountains visible towards the norths large numbers of camel^ sheep^ and horses in this country. 4. Yangi-shahr^ 6 tash. Cross Karatal River^ road passes through sandy soil. 5. Achma Urtang^ 5 tash. Country sandy ; small village ; cold climate ; snowy mountains visible both to north and south. 6. Charchi^ 5 tash. Good pasture grounds^ and plenty of fuel. 7. Sh&kur or Ichertchou^ 6 tash. Large lake in vicinity^ country marshy. 8. Rurla or Koila or Kurungla^ 4 tash. Large town^ Kalmak population. District contains about 5^000 houses ; town is situate on left bank of a large river; climate mild; and abundance of grain ; grapes and other fruit in great profusion. 9. Yash Uigur^ 4 tash. A post stage ; coal found near. 10. Karashahr^ 5 tash. Formerly an enormous city^ one of^ if not^ the largest in East Turkes- tan ; three days to its north is the important town and district of Lukchin^ now chiefly inhabited by Kalmaks who migrate to the hills in summer. Climate cold, and much snow falls here ; wheat, barley, and Indian-corn grow. There is but little fruit. A great rendezvous for merchants. ROUTE XVI. Karashahr to Turfan, authority Captain Trotter, compiled from VARIOUS sources. 1. Tawalgha^ 4 tash. Road through cultivation^ mountains visible on north of road. 2. Tagharchi, 8 tash. 3. Ushak Tal^ 8 tash. A post house. 4. ILkik Kizil^ 7 tash. Road passes through sandy desert. 5. Kumush^ 5 tash. Road passes through hills. 6. Ighar Bul^k, 5 tash. Cross mountain ridge en route. 7. Subashi, Z\ tash. 8. Takshun, 5 tash. A large town. Cross a mountain ridge en route. 9. Bugum^ 4 tash. ( 463 ) 10. Turfan^ 4 tash. A large city. Climate hot^ and fruits and grain produced in abundance. Snowy mountains on norths but at a considerable distance. Iron, copper^ and gold found in neighbourhood. Water is procured from wells^ and irrigation is carried on by means of underground canals. ROUTE xvn. TtJBFAK to Kkudlj OB KhAMIL or HAMf (aTJTHOEITT Dk. B£LLEW,t ¥KOU Native information), 1. Kaii Khoja^ 4 tash. Town of 500 houses. MusahnAn &milies. 2. Yangi Khhin, 4 tash. 100 houses. Water from Kdrez or Khhin streamjs. At % tash is the Maz£r Abul Futtih« 300 houses and bazar. Musalmins. 3. Lukchun^ 4 tash. Town of 2^000 houses. A stream from Ghochan T&gh north of PicMn^ flows through the town on to the desert. In flood seasons it reaches Lob Nor. 4. Pichiln'^ 4 tash. Town of 500 houses ; all Musalm&ns. Stream from Ghochan Tagh flows through the town. Outside is a Chinese fort. 5. Chightan^ 5 tash. 100 houses. Springs. Kashghar frontier. 6. Lotu Changza^ 5 tash. Camp ground at a well on Gobi desert. 7. Kosh, 6 tash. Well. Gobi desert. 8. Kuduk^ 5 tash. Well. Gobi desert. Cyclones^ sandstorms^ and whirlwinds common on this part of the desert^ and sometimes shifting sands overwhelm the traveller. Diabolical sounds and spirit calls here mislead the unwary to destruction in the trackless waste. 9. Otar Kima^ 5 tash. Custom House^ and 20 houses. Springs. 10. Otun Oza, 4 tash. Small village^ cook-shop and restaurant. Springs. 11. Lodung^ 5 tash. SO houses of Musalm^ns. Springs. 12. Shothd^ 3 tash. 15 houses of Musalm^ns. Springs. 13. Jighdi^ 4 tash. 40 houses of Musalm&ns. 14. Taghochi^ 4 tash. 100 houses of Musalmins. Bazar and fort. A river from the Kazanchi T^gh on the south flows by the city to Lupchuk and Kar&taba and Lob Nor. 15. Sumc^ho^ 5 tash. 300 houses. Bazar and fort. Musalmins. Kdrez conduits. At 3 tash is Abdul Alim Fort^ 2 gates ; 500 houses. Kdrez, 16. Eamul, 5 tash. Commercial city ; 2^500 houses. A Chinese Governor with a Musalmi^n Wang over the Muhammadans. The city has three gates^ and populous suburbs. ROUTE XVIIa. ' TUEFAN TO ORtJMCHi OR IJEUMTSf . (De, BELLEWf FEOM NATIVE INPOEMATION.) 1. Sham&l Ortang, 5 tash. Four houses. Stream from hills. 2. Dabdnchi^ 5 tash. Town and fort. 360 houses^ in a valley amongst hills. * There is an alternative road to Pich&n or H^an passing by Sanghin and Lemtsin. There is also an alter- native road from Pidjan to Eamul, Ijin^to the south of the road here described. The soathem road passes through the towns of Khoing and Ehartoube. — H.T. t I have not the means of verifying many of the routes given by Dr. Bellew, and they are inserted as given by him.— H. T. a87 ( 454 ) 3. Kaburghi Ortang, 4 tash. Fotir houses in ruins. Hilly country. 4. Dacy&yunus^ 5 lash. Ten houses and an artang. Kuins of ancient city. 6. Orumchi^ 4 tash. A strong city ; 8^000 houses. Double walls and four gates. Population mostly Khitdy and Tungani with Musalm&n traders. Suburbs populous and extensive. Kalm^ camps in hill country around. ROUTE XVIII. OR^MCHf TO Manas (Dr, Bellew). 1. GrunULtur^ 5 tash. Town^ 600 houses of Ear£ Khit^y or Chinese. 2. Sinjd Ortang or Sijti^ 5 tash. Ten houses. Mountainous country. S. S£nju, 4 tash. City and fort. 600 houses. Residence of Daud Khalifa. 4. Langar^ 4 tash. Ten houses and an ortang. 5. Man^, 5 tash. City and fort. 800 houses ; S gates. ROUTE XIX. ManIs to Ttjld^z (Dr. Belle w), 1. Shit&y, 4 tash. Fifty houses of Ear& Ehit&y and Turgut Kalmyk. 2. KipotiLy, 6 tash. 100 houses of ditto ditto. 3. K&ydu^ 4 tash. Town of 200 houses of ditto ditto on E^wydu river. 4. Ear&sd^ 8 tash. 12^000 tents of Ear£ Ehit&y and Ealmdk of the Orumchi District scattered about the streams all over the valley. 5. Purg&chi, 4 tash. 100 tents of the Ear&su camps. 6. Tomodi, 4 tash. 200 farms of Ear£ Ehit^y of Yulduz. 7. Toli> 4 tash. SO tents of Turgdt Ealmak. Salt mine in hills here. 8. Yulduz^ 5 tash. City of 1^000 houses. Capital of Ealmak Queen. ROUTE XX. TuLDtJz TO Gh^lja or Ila (Dr. Bellew), 1. Otdy, 4 tash. 100 tents of Tdrgut Ealmik. 2. T&ghi Yanza, 3 tash. 100 tents of Turgut« Ealm&k. Wheat and barley grown here. 8. Sitdy, 4 tash. 60 tents of Ch%hir Ealmak of Yulduz. Deer abound here. 4. Sint&y, 6 tash. Ten houses and an ortang. Ila or Ghulja territory begins here. 5. Sarim Eol, S tash. The lake is two days' circuit and is fed from the TabJd hills^ and has no outlet. 6. T&bah^n, 1 tash. Ch£ghir and Ear& Ealm£k camps on Talaki river. 7. Tdlji, 7tash. Ditto ditto ditto. 8. Chongshahr^ 8 tash. Commercial town. Russian Consul resides here. 9. Ohulja or Ila^ 6 tash. Capital city. Russian frontier town and Telegraph Office. Emporium of China trade. ( 455 ) ROUTE XXI, KiJrla to Lob (De. Bellew). 1. Y&t Euralj 4 tash. Over saady waste with reeds, poplars, and pools. 2. Konchi, 5 tash. On the T&rim river below junction of the united streams from Eurla and Ktichd. Country desert waste. River banks belted with reeds and thickets of poplar and tamarisk ; full of wild pig, stags, wolves, lynxes, and tigers. 3. Choi, 4 tash.* Camp on desert of salt and reeds and pools. 4. Kar^ Kochun, 5 tash. Across a desert waste to the bank of T£rim river. Reed huts of Musalm^n Kirghiz and Kalmyk on river bank. Here the Lob district begins and extends eastward to the lake along the river course in little settlements of reed huts each with its own boats. ROUTE XXII. Kabashahb to Tuld^z Valley (Dr. Bellew). 1. Kari Modnn, 6 tash. Ruins of a former Kalmyk Khan's house. 2. Khapchigh^y, 5 tash. Over a mountain pass ; easy for horses and camels. 3. B^ghont^y, 5 tash. Waste country, cross low ridges and streams. Pine trees on the mountains. 4 & 5. Cross several hill ridges and camp on streams in the hollows at 5 tash each day. Vegetation very scanty. No fuel. 6. D&lan Dawan, 5 tash. Camp on snow at top of pass. No fuel nor forage. 7 & 8. Cross " Yatmish Daw£n " = " Seventy Hills'' by two stages of five tash each, and camp on snow. No fuel nor forage. 9. Yulduz, 6 tash. Descend to Yulduz valley. Meadows and streams, and Kalm£k camps all over the valley. The foregoing routes have been derived from Native traders and travellers, and are on tiie whole, I believe, tolerably correct, though varying in the different ideas as to distance and number of houses, and sometimes as to the nature of the road. ROUTE xxm. Fhom Khotan to AKst. Authority Captain Chapman, peom Native infoemation. Khotan to— 1. Tarashi-gul. Through cultivation. 2. Lokul. Ditto. 3. Agroya. Desert. 4. Koshlush {or Katilich). This is the point where the K^r^k&sh and the Yurdngk&sh Rivers unite. 5. Tagag. Desert. 6. Mazar-tdgh. Sand hills. ( 456 ) *- Stages throngh desert 7. Booksam (or Bash Bonisem). 8. Kolu. 9. Badlik Eotagh {or Bedelik Kudok). 10. Nurs-shakum. 11. Balfuz-nakiim. 12. Khal. 13. Darialoe. 14. Mihtung. Here cultivation is encountered. 15. Eaiatal (Kkaratal). 16. Besh-turkimirum {Besk^arii), 17. Aksu. These are stages for donkeys, the chief trade being carried on with donkeys — copper, rice, iron, gold silk, and country cotton cloths going from Ehotan. A trader with horses ¥rill accomplish the journey in 10 stages. Note.— Thifl route would appear to be reliable. Namee in italics are found by me in Klaproth's Map. — H. T. ROUTE XXIV. Fbom Khotan to Polu (direct). Authority OiiPTAiN i^hafman, from Native information. Khotan to— 1. Sampiila ... ... 3 tash. 2. H^sha ... ... 3 tash. These six marches are through 3. Oanju-tdgh ... ... Stash. A large town. cultivated lands with small 4. Miira ... ... ... 4 tash. villages. No rivers encoun- 5. Im&m Mazar or Chehar Imim, 4 tash. tered. 6. Polu ... ... ... 5 tash. ^ NOTi. — ^Tfais route agrees very weU with another procured by me frc )m a different souroe.— H. T. EOUTE XXV. Ehotan to Chauchand and Eitsla. Aijthoeitt Captain Tbottbe, compiled peou vabious 80tjece8 of native infoehation. Khotan to^ 1. 2. S. 4. 6. 6. 7. 8. 16i MUes. 35 25 27i 15 if )9 i» V ride Route XIV. Dol Chira Kardkia . . . Kiria Ui Toghrak Yessulghun. Auras. Naia. At a day's journey from Naia in a southerly direction lie the Sorg^h&k gold fields. The river, from Sorgh^k flows by Naia and passes in a northerly direction to Maz&r Im&m Jafr Sadik, a &vourite place of pilgrimage, two days' journey north of Naia. From Naia to Charchand lie two roads across the desert, the northern road passes the camps of-^ K&ra Buran. Yantagh Kuduk. Kok-muran. Yang-arik. Charchand. 9. Baliklik. 14. 10. Yer-tonguz. 15. 11. Haidil-shah Enduk. 16. 12. Andhira. 17. 18. Shiodang. 18. ( 457 ) At all these campe wells have been dug. On the altemative southern route the camping grounds are as follows : — 9. Subed (from here a road goes to Sorghdk). 10. Ap&lik. 14. Tokpai. 11. Shrine of Bibi Tujilik. 16. Hassan Gonj. 12. Moljia. 16. Achian. 13. The K&pa gold fields. 17. Charchand. The marches from Naia probably average between 20 and 25 miles in length. Charchand is a place of some importance^ and is said to be used as a penal settlement ; a large river is said to flow tiirough it coming from Thibet and ultimately finding its way to Lob. The geographical position of Charchand is not fixed with any degree of certainty but it is probably about equidistant from Keria (Route XIV.) and Kurla (Route XV.), to which latter place a road passes vi£ Tartang and Chaktuk. Between Charchand and the Lob District are said to be oases where wandering tribes of Sokpos (Kalmaks) wander about with their flocks and herds. Near Charchand are tiie Rhadlak gold fields, where 100 diggers are employed. ROUTE XXVI. KiLA Wamur (Roshan) to Eila Kht71£b (Darwaz), authority Captain Trotter through Abdul Subhan, from native information. Eila W&mur, chief town of Roshan. Wazniid. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Amem. Eila Chamarj. Wadkhod. Jarf. Eila Ehumb. Road down Fanjah or Amu river the whole way. Valley very narrow and precipitous, and not practicable for laden horses. An alternative road goes in a northerly direction by which Eila Ehumb may be reached in three days from Wamur. _«.,«_ ROUTE XXVII. From Bar Panjah (Shighnan) to Eashqhar, authority Captain Trotter through Abdul SUBHAN, from native INFORMATION. From Bar Punjab — 1. Ohund village. 7. Murghabi. 2. Ishtim or Wiar. 8. Rang-kul. 3. Charsim Fort. 9. Moji Chakr Arghin (Eirghiz). 4. Bugrumal Pamir.^ From here a road 10. BulghAr Pass (very high). . diverges to Ehokand vid Bartang. 11. Tashb^lig. 5. Sasik-kul (2 lakes and Pamir). 12. E&shghar. 6. Eara-su. ROUTE XXVIII. From Bugrumal Pamir (No. 4 of Route XXVII) to Ehokand. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Marjanai. Sirich Fort (the capital of Bartang) . E&ra BuMk (on Murghabi river). Takhta Eorum. Altun Mazar, cross the Maz^r Pass. 11. Ehokand. „' I Two marches in the Alai. 8. 9. Osh Eurgh^n by Draot (Deraout). 10. Marjilan. NoTB. — These lonies are yerv meagre, but have been used ia conjunction with other souroes of inform- ation in the compilation of mj prelmiinary map. From Wamur there is a pathway up the Mur^abi River to Sirich Fort» but so difficult that travellers nearly always go by the Ghund river in preference. — H. T. * Probably the western prolongation of the Aliohur Pamir. a88 ( 468 ) ROUTE XXIX. Fkoic Yuk (sek No. 15 op Bovte YIII) to Chitbal, acthosity Captain Biddulph fkoh Natitb ikforuation. Yur to — 1. Suneen. 2. Over pass.* 3. Kusht. 4. Topkhana. 5. Gazan (inhabited). 6. Manzagram. 7. Mastuch. 8. Booni. 9. Bisht. 10. Bagh. 11. Chitrfl. These are marches for a man on foot. BOUTE XXX. Tashkurghan^ No. 9 of Boutb VIII, or Sabigh-E6l to Hanza in Kanjud (Dr. Bellew). 1. Davdir, 4 tash. Across valley and amongst hills to camp ground. The first stage from Tashkurgh&n. No habitation. 2. Jilghar, 3 tash. Easy road amongst hills. Desert. No fuel or forage. 3. Ghajakb^^t 4 tash. The same. 4. Bang or Zastol, 4 tash. Up a narrow gorge and over a glacier to 5. Bangal, 8 tash. Down a defile along a torrent. Boad rough. Hills bare. 6. Talictay, 4 tash. The same as last stage. 7. Lupgal, 5 tash. Continue down the valley. Mountains high and bare. 8. Udmurkishj 4 tash. Desert country amongst hills. 9. Misgar. \ 10. S^. / These are all the names of camp grounds. Each a day's journey from 11. Ehybar. f the other in vallies amongst hills. Streams from all sides, and 12. Passu. r scanty brushwood. Country very difficult and bare. .Under snow 13. Garnit. \ for half the year. 14. SyAbAn. J 15. Muhammaddb&d. First village from T&hkurgh£n. Fields and orchards on river bank. 16. Kanjud, 8 tash. 1,000 houses and fort. Capital of Hanza on a large river. Fields and fruit trees in terraces on hill slopes. BOUTE XXXI. Sabhadd, No. 14 op Route VIII, VTAKniNi to KANJth) (De. BejjLEw). 1. Shi war. In a glen. Fuel, water, and grass. 2. Langar4 On border of P^mir Khurd. Grass, fuel, and water. 3. Khaldarchit. In a glen of the Pamir hills. Ditto. No trees. 4. Luptuk. A deep narrow defile in the mountains. Grass and water. 6. Irshil. Over a high mountain and a glacier down to 6. Ast&n. A long march down a defile sJong a river which flows all the way to Kanjud. 7. Ispinj. A short march down course of the same river which is unfordable and only crossed on the ice in winter. 8. Beshit. Short march down the river. 9. ELirmin. Ditto. 10. Gircha or Goorki, Twenty scattered houses and terraced fields. 11. Khybar. 6 houses, Ditto. 12. Passd or Basoo. 20 houses, Ditto. * CloBed for several months in the year, t Probably Kila Ujadbai.— H. T. X station 13 of Route YIII.— H. T. ( 459 ) 13. Sissuni or Sasoni. 10 houses, scattered houses and terraced fields. A very short stag-e to 14. Gholki. 80 houses. Ditto. . 15. Guhuik or Oulmit. 100 houses on right bank of river. Leave river here and cross Durband Kotal, not high nor di£Scult in two stages to 1 7. Kanjud. 1,000 houses and a fort. Capital of the country, on a river which flows to Gilgit. These routes, XXX. and XXXL, probably meet about Gircia. Tie accounts given are incon- sistenty but as very little is known of the Kama country, every contribution to a knowledge of it is valuable. — S. T Yl&KAND TO ShAHIDULA vid ElLIK (CaPTAIN TkOTTER). 1. Yarkand to ) 2. KargMUk [ Ro^te I. 3. Beshterek. 40 or 60 houses ; 4 tash. 4. Balerak Eurba. 200 houses, 2 tash. 6. Akchik. 4 or 5 hiouses, 2 tash. 6. Takmk or Chakmk Camp, 4 tash. Kirghiz camp. Plenty of cattle. 7. Tupa Diwan, 4 tash. Pass. Good road. 8. Azghan or Kilik. Plenty of wood and grass. 9. Kilik Diwan. Higher than Tupa Diwan. 10. Larcha Ya Tuba, 8 tash. Good road. Plenty of grass and wood. 11. Gor Jilga, 4 tash. 12. Mazdr Khoja, 2 tash. Large stream. 13. Shahidiila. (Routes I. to III.) This road is said to be shorter and better than any other road between Yarkand and ShahidiHa ; grass and wood are to be found at eveiy stage. Shahidula can be reached by a horseman in five days from Y&rkand. The man who supplied this route has tried idl the roads from Yarkand and reports the road vid the KiUk Pass to be much the best for foot passengers. CHAPTER VIIL Section !• A hrief account of the geological structure of the Hill^anges between the Indue Valley in Ladai and Shahidula on the frontier of Yariand territory, by De. F. Stoliczka^ Geological Survey of India, Naturalist attached to the Yariand Embassy. The following brief notes on the general geological structure of the hill-ranges alluded to, are based upon observations made by myself on a tour from Leh vid Changchenmo, the high plains of Lingzi-thang, Karatagh, Aktagh to Shah-i dula, and upon corresponding observations made by Dr. H. W. Bellew, accompanying Mr. Forsyth's camp along the Kora- korum route to this place. Before proceeding with my account, I will only notice that our journey from Leh (or Ladak) was undertaken during the second half of September and in October, and that we found the greater portion of the country north of the Changchenmo valley covered with snow, the greatest obstacle a geologist can meet on his survey. While on our journey the thermometer very rarely rose during the day above the freezing point, and hammer opera- tions were not easily carried out. At night the thermometer sank as a rule to zero, or even to 8^ below zero in our tents, and to 26^ below zero in the open air. Adding to this the natural difficulties of the ground we had to pass through, it was occasionally not an easy matter to keep the health up to the required standard of working power. Near Leh, and for a few miles east and west of it, the Indus flows on the boundary between crystalline rocks on the north and eocene rocks on the south. The latter consisik chiefly of grey and reddish sandstones and shales, and more or less coarse conglomerates, containing an occasional nummulite and casts of pelecypods. These tertiary rocks extend from eastward south of the Pangkong lake, following the Indus either along one or both banks of the river, as far west as Kargil, where they terminate with a kind of brackish and fresh-water deposit, containing melania. Nearly the entire ridge north of the Indus, separating this river from the Shayok, and continuing in a south-easterly direction to the mouth of the Hanle river (and crossing here the Indus, extending to my knowledge as far as Demchock), consists of syenitic gneiss, an extremely variable rock as regards its mineralog^cal composition. The typical rock is a moderately fine grained syenite, crossed by veins which are somewhat richer in hornblende, while other portions contain a large quantity of schorl. Both about Leh and further east- ward, extensive beds of dark, almost black, fine-grained syenite occur in the other rocic. The felspar often almost entirely disappears from this fine-grained variety, and quartz remains very sparingly disseminated, so that gradually the rock passes into a hornblendic schist; and when schorl replaces hornblende, the same rock changes into layers which are almost entirely composed of needles of schorl. Again, the syenite loses in places all its hornblende, the crystak of felspar increase in size, biotite (or sometimes chlorite) becomes more or less abundant, and with the addition of quartz we have before us a typical gneiss (or protogine gneiss) without being able to draw a boundary between it and typical syenite. However, the gneissic portions, many of which appear to be regularly beddea, are decidedly subordinate to the syenitic ones. As sJready mentioned, the rock often has a porphyritic structure, and the felspar becomes pink instead of white, as, for instance, on the top of the Kardung pass and on the southern slope of the Chang-la, where large fragments are often met without the slightest trace of hornblende. To the north of the last mentioned pass the syenitic gneiss gradually passes into thick beds of syenite-schist, and this again inte chloritic schist, by the hornblende becoming replaced by chlorite, while the other mineral constituents are gradually almost entirely suppressed. The syenitic and chloritic beds alternate with quartzose schists of gi*eat thickness. This schistose series of rocks continues from north of the Chang-la te the western end of the Pangkong lake ( 461 ) and northwards to the Lonker-la^ generally called the Marsemik pass. On the western route Dr. Bellew met similar rocks north of the Kardung pass at the village Kardung^ and traced them northwards across the Shayok^ up the Nubra valley to near the foot of the Sussir pass. Intimately connected with the metamorphic schistose series just noticed^ is a greenish chloritic^ partly thin-bedded^ partly more massive rock^ which very closely resembles a similar rock found about Srinagg^. Only in this case certain layers^ or portions of it^ become often distinctly or even coarsely crystalline, sometimes containing bronzite sparingly disseminated, and thus passing into diallage. This chloritic rock forms the greater part of the left side of the Changchenmo valley, and also occurs south of the Sussir pass. I think we have to look upon this whole series of schistose and chloritic rocks as tiie representatives of the Silurian formationr. After crossing the Changchenmo valley to Gogra, we met with a different set of rocks. They are dark, often quite black, shales alternating with sandstones. Many beds of the latter have a comparatively recent aspect, and ai*e rather micaceous, without the least metamor-' phic structure, while the shales accompanying them very often exhibit a silky, sub-metamor- phic appearance on the plains of facture. I observed occasionally traces of fucoids and other plants in these shales, but no animal fossils. On the Changchenmo route these shaly rocks forms the ridge of the Chan-lang pass, as well as the whole of the western portion of the Lingzi-thang ; and they are met again after crossing these high plains and entering the Karakash valley, as far as Shinglung (or Dunglung). On the Korakorum route Dr. Bellew brought specimens of similar rocks from the Korakorum range itself. There can be but little doubt, — judging from similar rocks which I saw in Spiti, and from their geological relations to certain limestones, of which I shall presently speak — that we have in the shaly series the carboniferous formation represented. In many localities along the right bank of the Changchenmo river, then at the hot springs north of Gog^, and on the southern side of the Changlang pass, we find the carbo- niferous beds overlain by triassic limestone which often has the characteristic semi-oolitic structure of the Krol-limestones south of Simla. At Gogra and several other places dolomi- tic beds occur; and in these, sections of Dicerocardium Kiinalayaense are not uncommon. In other places beds are met with full of crinoid stems. North of the Lingzi-thang plain — to the west of which the hills are mostly composed of the same triassic limestone — a red brecciated, calcareous conglomerate is seen at the foot of the Compass-l£, but this conglomerate gradually passes into the ordinary grey limestone, which forms the ridge, and undoubtedly belongs to the same group of triassic rocks. The last place where I saw the triassic limestone was just before reaching the camping ground Shinglung; here it is an almost white or light grey compact rock, containing very perfect sections of Megalodon triqueter, the most charac- teristic triassic fossil. On Mr. Forsyth^s route Dr. Bellew met with similar triassic limestones on the northern declivities of the Sussir pass, and also on the Korakorum pass overlying the carboniferous shales and sandstones previously noticed. On the Korakorum the triassic limestone contains spherical corals very similar to those which had been a few years ago described by Professor Ritter von Beuss from the Hallstadt beds in the Alps, and which are here known to travellers as Korakorum stones. A description of these very remarkable corals will be given subsequently. Returning to our Lingzi-thang route, we leave> as already mentioned, the last traces of triassic limestone at Shinglung, in the upper Karakash.valley. Here the limestone rests upon some shales, and then follow immediately the same chloritic rock which we noticed on the Lunker-la, sJtemating with quartzose schists, both of which must be regarded as of upper palsBOzoic age. At Kizil-jilga regular sub-metamorphic slates appear, alternating with«a red conglomerate and red sandstones, and further on dark slate is the only rock to be seen the whole way down the Karakash, until the river assumes a north-easterly course, some fourteen miles west of the Karatagh pass. From here my route lay in a north-westerly direction towards Aktagh, and the same slatn^ rock was met with along the whole of this route up to the last mentioned place. Dr. Bellew also traced these slates from the northern side of the Korakorum to Aktagh. They a 89 ( 4«2 ) further continue northwards across the Suget-I^^ a few miles north of the pass^ as well as in single patches down the Suget river to its junction with the Karakash. The irregular range of hills to the south of the portion of the Karakash river^ which flows almost east-west from Shahidula^ on its southern side entirely consists of these slates, while on the northern side it is composed of a fine-grained syenite, which also forms the whole of the Kuenldn range along the right bank of the Karakash river, and also is the sole rock composing the hills about the camping ground Shah-i-dula. The slates of which I spoke are, on account of the dose cleavage, mostly fine, crumbling, not metamorphic, and must, I think, be referred to the Silurian group. They correspond to the metamorphic schists on the southern side of the Kora^ korum ranges. Thus we have the whole system of mountain ranges between the Indus and the borders of Turkistan bounded on the north and south by syenitic rocks, including between them the Silurian, carboniferous, and triassic formations. This fact is rather remarkable, for, south of the Indus, we have nearly all the principal sedimentary formations represented from the silurian up to the eocene, and most of the beds abound in fossils. The only exception to which I can allude on the Changchenmo route is near Kium, in the Changchehmo valley. Here there are on the left bank of the river some remarkably recent looking sandstones and conglomerates, dipping at an angle of about 45^ to north-by-east, and at the foot of these beds rise the hot springs^ of Kium. I think it probable that this conglo- merate has eastward a connection with the eocene deposits, which occur at the western end of the Pangkong lake, and in the Indus valley south of it. In the previous notes I have scarcely alluded to the dip of the rocks at the different localities. The reason is that there is indeed very great cfifficulty in directly observing both the dip and the strike. At the western end of the Pangkong lake the dip of the metamorphic schists is mostly a south-westerly one, but further on nearly all the rocks dip at a moderate angle to north-east, north-by-east, or to north. On the Lingzi-thang, just after crossing the Changlang, the shales are mostly highly inclined, but further on the limestones lie imconfor- mably on them and dip to north-east. Wherever the hills consist merely of shales and slates, their sides are generally so thickly covered with debris and detritus that it becomes almost an exception to observe a rock in situ. The debris is brought down in large quantities by the melting snow into the valleys, and high banks of it are everywhere observable along the water-courses. At a somewhat remote — say diluvial — period this state of things has operated on a far greater scale. Not only were the lakes, like the Pangkong, much more extensive, but valleys like the Changchenmo, or the Tanktze valley, sometimes became temporarily blocked up by glaciers, or great landslips, and the shingle and clay deposits were often accumulated in them to a thickness of two or more hundred feet. Near Aktagh similar deposits of stratified clay exist of about 160 feet thick- ness, and extend over an area of more than one hundred square miles. There can be but little doubt that when these large sheets of water were in existence, the climate of these now cold and arid regions was both milder and moister, and naturally more favorable to animal and vegetable life than it is now. A proof of this is given, for instance, by the occurrence of subfossil Succinea, Helices, and Pupa in the clay deposits of the Pangkong lake, while scarcely any land moUusk could exist at the present time in the same place. Section II. GbOLOGICAL K0TB8 ON THE BOUTB TBAVBB8BD BY THB YaBEAND EhBASSY FBOM ShAHIDULA TO YaBKA^KD AND Kashohab, by Db. F. Stoliczka, Naturalist aiiaehed to the Emhany. In a former communication I had already occasion to notice that the rocks composing the Kuenlun range near Shahidula, chiefly consist of syenitic gneiss, often interbedded, and alternating, with various metamorphic and quartzose schists. Similar rocks continue the * The temperature of these hot springs varies from 60*^ to 126^. They form no deposit of gypenm, like the springs north of Gogra, but there is a good deal of soda deposit round them. ( 463 ) whole way down the Earakash river for about twenty-four miles. After this the road follows, in a somewhat north-westerly direction, a small stream leading to the Sanju-(or Orimm-) Pass. Here the rocks are chiefly true mica schist, in places full of garnets. Near, and on, the pass itself chloritic and quartzose schists prevail, in which veins of pale green jade occur, numerous blocks containing this mineral having been observed near the top of the pass. All the strata are very highly inclined, often vertical, the slopes of the hills, and in fact of the entire range, being on that account rather precipitous, and the crests of the ridges them- selves very narrow. To the north of the Sanju Pass we again meet with metamorphic, mostly chloritic schists, until we approach the camping place Tdm, where, distinctly bedded, sedimentary rooks cap the hiUs of both sides of the valley. They are dark, almost black, silky slates, resting unconf ormably on the schists, and are overlain by a grey, partly quartzitic sandstone, passing into conglomerate. The last rock contains particles of the black slates, and is, therefore, clearly of younger age. Some of the conglomeratic beds have a remarkably recent aspect, but others are almost metamorphic. In none of the groups, the slates or sandstones or conglomerates, have any fossils been observed ; but they appear to belong to some palaeozoic formation. They all dip at from 40° to 50° towards north-east, extending for about one and a half miles down the Sanju valley. Here they are suddenly cut off by metamorphic schists, but the exact place of contact on the slopes of the hills is entirely concealed by debris. The schists are only in one or two places interrupted by massive beds of a beautiful porphyritic gneiss, containing splendid crystals of orthoclase and biotite ; they continue for about eighteen miles to the camp Kiw^z. On the road, which often passes through very narrow portions of the valley, we often met with old river deposits, consisting of beds of gravel and very fine clay, which is easily carried off by only a moderate breeze, and fills the atmosphere with clouds of dust. These old river deposits reach in many places up to about one hundred and fifty feet above the present level of the river, which has to be waded across at least once in every mile. At the camp Eiw^z the hills on both sides of the valley are low, composed of a com- paratively recent looking conglomerate, which in a few places alternates with beds of reddish, sandy clay, the thickness of the latter varying from two to five feet only. These rocks strikingly resemble those of the supra-nummulitic group, so extensively represented in the neighbourhood of Mari. They decompose very readily, covering the slopes of the mountains with loose boulders and sand, under which very little of the original roek can be seen. Near the camp the beds dip at about 40° to north-east, but about one mile and a half further on a low gap runs parallel to the strike, and on the other side of it the beds rise again, dipping with a similar angle to south-west, thus forming a synclinal at the gap. Below the conglomerate there crops out a grey, often semi-crystalline limestone, containing in some of its thick layers large numbers of Crinoid stems, a Spirifer, very like S. striatus, and two species of Fenneatella. Following the river to north by east, this carboniferous limestone again rests on chloritic schist, which, after a mile or two, is overlain by red sandstone, either in horizontal or very slightly inclined strata. Both these last named rocks are very friable, easily crumbling between the fingers, particularly the latter, from which the calcareous cement has almost entirely been dissolved out. At Sanju the red sandstones underlie coarse grey calcareous sandstones and chloritic marls, some beds of which are nearly exclusively composed of Qryphaa vesicularis, many specimens of this most characteristic middle cretaceous fossil being of enormous size. The Grypiaa beds and the red sandstones are conformable to each other, and although I have nowhere seen them interstratified near their contact, there is strong evidence of their being both of cretaceous age. Both decompose equally easily, and the Gryphma beds have indeed in many places been entirelv denuded. They have supplied. the greater portion of the gravel and beds of shifting sand, which stretch in a north-easterly direction towards the unknown desert-land. On the road from Sanju to Yarkand, which first passes almost due west and after some distance to north-west, we crossed extensive tracts of those gravel beds, and of low hills almost entirely composed of clay and sand, though we only skirted the true desert country. Locally, as, for instance, near Oi-tograk and Boria, pale reddish sandstones crop out from under the more recent deposits, but they appear to be younger than the cretaceous i^ sandstones under- lying the Gryphaa beds; the former most probably belong to some upper tertiary group. Among the sandy and clayey deposits I was not a little surprised to find true LoeM^ as typical ( 464 ) as it can anywhere be seen in the valleys of the Rhine or of the Danube. I might even speak of ' Berg' and ^ Thai-Loss/ but I shall not enter into details on this occasion ; for I may have a much better opportunity of studying this remarkable deposit. At present I will only notice that commonly we meet with extensive deposits of LoeM only in the valleys. Its thickness varies ii\ places from ten to eighty, and more, feet ; a fine yellowish unstratijied clay, occasion- ally with calcareous concretions and plant fragments. In Europe the origin of this extensive deposits was, and is up to the present date, a disputed question. Naturally, if a geologist is not so fortunate as to travel beyond the ' Rhine' or ' Donau-thal,' and is accustomed to be surrounded with the verdant beauty of these valleys, he might propose half a dozen theories, and as he advances in his experience disprove the probability of one after the other, until his troubled mind is wearied of prosecuting the object further. Here in the desert countries, where clouds of fertile dust replace those of beneficial vapour, where the atmosphere is hardly ever clear and free from sand, nay occasionally saturated with it, the explanation that the Lass is a subaerial deposit, is almost involuntarily pressed upon one^s mind. I do not think that by this I am advancing a new idea; for, — unless I am very much mistaken, — it was my friend Baron Bichthofen who came to a similar conclusion during his recent sojourn in Southern China. Tarkand lies about five miles from the river, far away from the hills, in the midst of a well cultivated land, intersected by numerous canals of irrigation j a land full of interest for the agriculturist, but where the geological mind soon involuntarily falls into repose. And what shall I say of our road from Yarkand to Kashghar? Little of geological interest, I am afraid. Leaving Yarkand we passed for the first few miles through cultivated land, which, how- ever, soon gave away to the usual aspect of the desert, or something very little better. A few miles south-west of Kokrabad a low ridge runs from south-east to north-west. If we are allowed to judge from the numerous boulders of red stahdstone and Oryphaa marl, some of considerable size and scarcely river-worn, we might consider the ridge as being composed of cretaceous rocks. But one hardly feels consoled with the idea, that in wading through the sand he should only cross a once cretaceous basin, and that the whole of this country should have remained free from encroachment of anv of the kainozoic seas. It is very dangerous to jump to conclusions regarding the nature of a ground untouched by the geological hammer. The answer to any doubt must for the present remain a desideratum. On the fourth day of our march approachins: Yans4hissar, we also crossed a few very low ridges, but these consisted entirely of g^vel and marly day b^, most of them dipping with a vl^high angle to aoath by east, the strike being nearly due east and west. South of Yangihissar the ridge bent towards south-west, and there was also a distant low ridge traceable in a north-easterly direction, the whole haying the appearance of representing the shore of some large inland watersheet. From Yangihissar to Kashghar we traversed only low land, as usually more or less thickly covered with a saline efflorescence, but still to a considerable extent cultivated. Here in Kashghar the distant heights of the Kuenldn, of the Pamir and Thinshan ranges, are ready to unfold their treasures, whether we go in a southerly, or westerly, or northerly direc- tion ; geological ground is even nearer to be found in some of the low ridges from twelve to thirty miles distant, while the Moralbashi forests lying eastward, invite the zoologist and sportsman. I trust we shall soon be able to see and relate some novelties from our neigh- bourhood. Kashghaty 20^A December 1873. Section III. NOTB BEOABDINO THE OCCUBBBNCB OF JADE IK THE EaBAXABH VALLEY, ON THE 80UTHBBN B0BDEB8 OF TuBEiBTAK, hy Db. F. Stoliczka, Naturalist attached to the Yarkand Embassy, The portion of the Kuenlun range, which extends from Shahidula eastward towards Kotan, appears to consist entirely of gneiss, syenitic gneiss, and metamorphic rocks, these being quartzose, micaceous, or homblendic schists. On the southern declivity of this range. ( 465 ) which runs along the right bank of the Karakash river^ are situated the old jade mines^ or rather quarries formerly worked by the Chinese. They are about seven miles distant from the Kirghiz encampment^ Belakchi^ which itself is about twelve miles south-east of Shahidula. I had the pleasure of visiting the mines in company with Dr. Bellew and Captain Biddulph^ with a Yarkandee official as our guide. We found the principal jade locality to be about one and a half miles distant from the river^ and at a height of about five hundred feet above the level of the same. Just in this portion of the range a few short spurs abut from the higher hills^ all of which are^ however, as usually^ thickly covered with d^ris and sand^ the result of disintegration of the original rock. The whole has the appearance as if an extensive slip of the mountain-side had occurred. Viewing the mines from a little distance the place seemed to resemble a number of pigeon-holes worked in the side of the mountain^ except that they were rather irregularly distributed. On closer inspection we saw a number of pits and holes dug out in the slopes^ extending over a height of nearly a couple of 100 feet^ and over a length of about a quart'ir of a mile. Each of these excavations has a heap of fragments of jade and rock at its entrance. Most of them are only from ten to twenty feet high and broad^ and their depth rarely exceeds twenty or thirty feet; only a few show some approach to low galleries of moderate lengthy and one or two are said to have a length of eighty or a hundred feet. Looking on this mining operation as a whole^ it is no doubt a very inferior piece of the miner's skill ; nor could the workmen have been provided with any superior instruments. I estimated the number of holes at about hundred and twenty ; but several had been opened only experimentally, an operation which had often to be resorted to on account of the superficial sand concealing the underlying rock. Several pits also which were probably exhausted at a'moderate depth were again filled in ; their great number^ however, clearly indicates that the people had been working singly or in small parties. The rock of which the low spurs at the base of the range are composed, is partly a thin bedded, rather sandy, syenitic gneiss, partly mica and homblendic schist. The felspar gradually disappears entirely in the schistose beds, which on weathered planes often have the appearance of a laminated standstone. They include the principal jade-yielding rocks, being traversed by veins of a pure white, apparently zeolitic mineral, varying in thickness from a few to about forty feet, and perhaps even more. The strike of the veins is from north-by-west to sout-by-east, or sometimes almost due east-and-west ; and their dip is either very, high towards north, or they run vertically. I have at present no sufficient means to ascertain the true nature of this vein-rock, as it may rather be called, being an aggregate of single crystals. The mineral has the appearance of albite, but the lustre is more silky, or perhaps rather glassy, and it is not in any way altered before the blowpipe, either by itself, or with borax or soda. The texture is somewhat coarsely crystalline, rhomhohedric faces being on a fresh frac- ture clearly traceable. It sometimes contains iron pyrites in very small particles, and a few flakes of biotite are also occasionally observed. This zeolitic rock is again traversed by veins of nephrite, commonly called jade ; which, however, also occure in nests. There appear to be two varities of it, if the one, of which I shall presently speak, really deserves the name of jade. It is a white tough mineral, having an indistinct cleavage in two different directions, while in the other directions the fracture is finely granular or spUntry, as in true nephrite. Portions of this mineral, which is apparently the same as usually called white jade, have some- times a fibrous structure. This white jade rarely occupies the whole thickness of a vein ; it usually only occurs along the sides in immediate contact with the zeolitic vein-rock, with which it sometimes appears to be very closely connected. The middle part of some of the veins and most of the others entirely consists of the common green jade, which is characterized by a thorough absence of cleavage, great toughness, and rather dull vitreous lustre. The hardness is always below 7, generaUy only equal to that of common felspar, or very little higher, though the polished surface of the stone appears to attain a greater hardness after long ex- posure to the air. The colour is very variable, from pale to somewhat darker green, approaching that of pure serpentine. The pale green variety is by far the most common, and is in general use for cups, mouth-pieces for pipes, rings and other articles used as charms and ornaments. I saw veins of the pale green jade fully amounting in thickness to ten feet; but it is by no means easy to obtain large pieces of it, the mineral being generally fractured in all directions. a90 ( 466 ) Like the crystalline vein-mineral^ neither the white nor the green variety of jade is affected by the blowpipe heat^ with or without addition of borax or soda. Green jade of a brighter colour and higher translucency is comparatively rare^ and^ already on that account^ no doubt much more valuable. It is usually only found in thin veins of one or a few inches ; and even then it is generally full of flaws. Since the expulsion of the Chinese from Yarkand in 1864, the jade quarries in the Karakash valley have become entirely deserted. They must have yielded a considerable portion of the jade of commerce ; though no doubt the workmen made a good selection already on the spot, taking away only the best coloured and largest pieces ; for even now a great number of fair fragments, measuring 12 to 15 inches in diameter, form part of the rubbish thrown away as useless. The Belakchi locality is, however, not the only one which yielded jade to the Chinese. There is no reason to doubt the existence of jade along the whole of the Kuenlun range^ as far as the mica and hornblendic schists extend. The great obstacle in tracing out the veins^ and following them when once discovered, is the large amount of superficial debris and shifting sand, which conceal the original rock in situ. However, fragments of jade may be seen among the boulders of almost every stream which comes down from the range. We also observed large fragments of jade near the top of the Sanju Pass, which on its southern side at least mostly consists of thin-bedded gneiss and hornblendic schist. Another rich locality for jade appears to exist somewhere south of Kotan, from whenoe the largest and best coloured pieces are said to come ; most of them are stated to be obtained as boulders in a river bed, though this seems rather doubtful. Very likely the Chinese worked several quarries south of Kotan^ similar to those in the Karakash valley, and most of the jade from this last locality was no doubt brought into Kotan, this being the nearest manafiac- turing town. A great number of the better polished ornaments, such as rings, &c., sold in the bazaar of Yarkand, have the credit of coming from Kotan ; possibly they are made there by Chinese workmen, but the art of carving seems to have entirely died away, and indeed it is not to be expected that such strict Mahomedans, as the Yarkandees mostly are, would eagerly cultivate it. If the Turkistan people will not take the opportunity of profiting by the export of jade, or if no new locality of that mineral is discovered within Chinese territory, the celestial people will feel greatly the want of the article, and good carved specimens of jade will become great rarities. The Chinese seem to have been acquainted with the jade of the Kuenlun mountains during the last two thousand years, for Kotan jade is stated to be men- tioned* " by Chinese authors in the time of the dynasty under Wuti (B.C. 148 — 86.)'' Vaftand, 14M November 1873. Section IV. Geological obsbbvations madb on a visit to the Chadebkul, Tuian Shan banob. by Db. F. Stoliczka, Naturalist attached to the Yarkand Embasty, Afteb a stay of nearly a month in our embassy quarters at Yangishar, near Kashgar, the diplomacy of our envoy secured us the Amir's permission for a trip to the Chaderkul, a lake situated close on the iiussian frontier, about 112 miles north by west of Kashgar, among the southern branches of the Thian Shan range. Under the leadership of Colonel Gordon, we. Captain Trotter and myself, left Yangishar about noon on the last day of 1873, receiving the greeting of the new year in one of the villages of the Artush valley, some 25 miles north- west from our last quarters. On the 1st of January 1874 we marched up the Toyan river for about 20 miles to a small encampment of the Kirghiz, called Chungterek ; and following the Toyan and passing the forts Murza-terek and Chakm^k, we camped on the fifth day at Turug-at-bela, about 1 1 miles south of the Turug pass, beyond which five miles further on lies the Chaderkul. On the sixth we visited the lake, and on the day following retraced our steps, by the same route we came, towards Kashgar, which we reached on the 11th Januaiy. • Yttle'fl Maico Polo. Vol. 1, p. 177. ( 467 ) Having had a shooting day at Turug-at-bela^ and one day's halt with the King's obliging officers at the Chakm^k fort, we were actually only nine days on the march^ daring which we accomplished a distance of about 224 miles. It will be readily understood that while thus marchings there was not much time to search for favorable sections in out-of-the-way places ; but merely to note what was at hand on the road. I can, therefore, only introduce my geolo- gical observations as passing remarks. Leaving the extensive loss-deposits of the valley of the Kashgar Daria, the plain rises very gradually towards a low ridge, of which I shall speak as the Artush range. It is remark- ably uniform in its elevation, averaging about 400 feet, somewhat increasing in height towards the west and diminishing towards the east, which direction is its general strike. This range separates the Kashgar plain from the valley of the Artush river, which cuts through the ridge about eight miles nearly due north of the city. Viewed from this, the entire ridge appears very regularly furrowed and weather-worn on its slope, indicating the softness of the material of which it is composed. One would have, however, hardly fancied that it merely consists of bedded clay and sand, mostly yellowish white, occasionally reddish, and sometimes with inter- stratified layers of greater consistency, hardened by a calcareous or silicious cement. On the left bank, in tbe passage of the river through the ridge, the beds appear in dome-shape, gently dipping towards the Kashgar plain on one side, and with a considerably higher angle into the Artush valley on the other. On the right bank at the gap all the exposed beds dip southward, those on the reverse of the anticlinal having been washed away by the Artush river up to the longitudinal axis, and thus exposing almost vertical faces. These remarkably homo- geneous, clayey, and sandy beds may aj»propriately be called Artush beds, and although I could nowhere find a trace of a fossil in them, it seems to me very probable that they are of marine origin and of neogene age. The southern slopes of the ridge are on their basal half entirely covered with gravel, which in places even extends to the top, assuming here a thickness of from 10 to 15 feet. Locally the gravel beds are separated from the main range by a shallow depression, forming a low ridge which runs along the base of the higher one, and from which it is, even in the distance, clearly discernible by its dark tint. The pebbles in the gravel are mostly of small size and well river- worn ; they are derived to a very large extent from grey or greenish sandstones and shales, black or white limestone, more rarely of trap, basalt, and of gneiss. With the exception of the last-named rock, all the others had been met with in situ in the upper Toyan valley. The pieces of gneiss belong to a grotip of metamorphic rock which is usually called Protogine. It is mainly composed of quartz and white or reddish orthoclase, with a comparatively small proportion of a green chloritic substance. The white felspar variety generally contains as an accessory mineral schorl, in short, rather thick, crystals. I shall subsequently allude to the probable source from which the protogine pebbles might have been derived. From Artush we marched, as already stated, northwards, up the Toyan river, and for the next 22 miles one was surprised to find nothing but the same Artush — and gravel — deposits, the former constantly dipping at a high angle to north by west, and the latter resting on them in slightly inclined or horizontal strata ; while among the recent river deposits in the bed of the valley itself the order of things appeared reversed. The gravels, having first yielded to denudation, were here underlying the clays derived from the Artush beds, thus preparing an arable ground for the agriculturist, whenever a favourable opportunity offered itself. A few miles south of Chungterek the laminated Artush beds entirely dis- appeared under the gravel, which from its greater consistency assumed here the form of a rather tough, coarse conglomerate. In the bend of the river the latter have a thickness of fully 200 feet, and are eroded by lateral rivulets into remarkably regular Gothic pillars and turrets. It is rare to meet with a more perfect imitation of nature by human art. The general surface of the gravel deposits is comparatively low, from 400 to 500 feet above the level of the river, and much denuded and intersected by minor streams and old watercourses. At a couple of miles north of Chungterek the Koktan range begins with rather abrupt limestone cliffs, rising to about 3,000 feet above the level of the Toyan. Nearly in the midiUe ( 468 ) of it are situated the forts Murzaterek and Chakm^k^ some ten miles distant from each other. The soathern portion of this range consists at its base of undulating layers of greenish or pur- plish shales, overlain by dark coloured, mostly black, limestone in thick and thin strata, the latter being generally earthy. The limestone occupies all the higher elevations, and, as is generally the case, greatly adds to the ruggedness of the mountains. About five miles north of Chungterek, I found in a thick bed of limestone an abundance of Megalodus triqueter, a large Pinna, a Spiriferina of the type of S. Stracheyi, blocks full of Lithodendron corals, and numerous sections of various small Gastropods. Thinner layers of the same limestone were full of fragments of crinoid stems, and of a branching Ceriopora, the rock itself bearing a strong resemblance to the typical St. Cassian beds. In this place the shales, underlying the limestone, were partly interstratified with it, in layers of from 5 to 10 feet ; and from this fact it seems to me probable that they also are of triassic age, representing a lower series of the same formation. Proceeding in a north-westerly direction, the MeffaloduS''\imestone8 are last seen near Murzaterek. From this place the greenish shales continue for a few miles further on, much disturbed and contorted ; and at last disappear under a variety of dark coloured shales, slates, and sandstones, with occasional interstratified layers of black, earthy limestone. The strike of the beds is from east by north to west by south, and the dip either very high to north or vertical. At Chakm^k the river has cut a very narrow passage through these almost vertical strata, which rise precipitously to about 8,000 feet, and to the south of the fort appear to be overlain by a lighter coloured rock. It is very difficult to say what the age of these slaty beds may be, as they seem entirely unfossiliferous, and we can at present only regard them as repre- senting, in all probability, one of the pals&ozoic formations. About five miles north-west of Chakm jk a sensible decrease in the height of the range takes place, and with it a change in the geological formation. The palseozoic beds, although still crossing the valley in almost vertical strata, become very much contorted ; while, uncon- formably on them, rest reddish and white sandstones and conglomerates, regularly bedded, and dipping to north-west with a steady slope of about 40 degrees. The rocks, though evidently belonging to a comparatively recent (kainozoic) epoch, appear to be much altered by heat, some layers having been changed into a coarse grit, in which the cement has almost entirely dis- appeared. I have not, however, observed any kind of organic remains in them. A little dis- tance further on they several times alternate with successive, conformably bedded, doleritic trap. The rock is either hard and compact, being an intimate, rather fine grained mixture of felspar and augite in small thin crystals, or it decomposes into masses of various greenish and purplish hues, like some of the basic greenstones. After leaving the junction of the Suyok and Toyan (or Chakm&k) rivers, and turning northwards into the valley of the latter, the panorama is really magnificent. Shades of white, red, purple, and black compete with each other in distinctness and brilliancy, until the whole series of formations appear in the distance capped by a dark bedded rock. Although, judging from the greater frequency of basaltic boulders, we already knew that this rock must be found further north, we hardly realized the pleasant sight which awaited us on the march of the 4th January, after having left our camp at Kulja or Bokum-bashi. The doleritic beds increased step by step in thickness, and after a few miles we passed through what appears to be the centre of an extensive volcanic eruption. Along the banks of the river columnar and massive basalt was noticed several times, with occasional small heaps of sla^ and scoriflB, among a few outcrops of very much altered and disturbed strata of red or white sandstone, thus adding to the remarkable contrast of the scene. In front of us, and to the right, stretched in a simicircle a regular old Somma ; the almost perpendicular walls rising to about 1,500 feet above the river, and clearly exposing the stratification of the basaltic flows, which were successively dipping to north-east, east, and south-east. On our left, as well as in an almost due western direction, portions of a similar Somma were visible above the sedimentary rocks, all dipping in the opposite way from those ahead of us. The cone itself has in reality entirely disappeared by subsidence, and the cavity was filled with the rubbish of the neighbour- ing rocks. ( 469 ) Passing further north we crossed a comparatively low country^ studded with small rounded hills and intercepted by short ridges with easy slopes ; the average height was between 12^000 and IS^OOO feet. This undulating high plateau proved to be one of the head-quarters of the Kulja {Ovis Polii), chiefly on account of the very rich grass vegetation which exists here. For this the character of the soil fully accounts. The entire ground was shown to consist of limestone gravel and pebbles of ratiier easily decomposing rocks^ mixed with the ashes and detritus^ evidently derived from the proximity of the volcanic eruption. Only rarely was an isolated basaltic dyke seen^ or the tertiary sandstone cropping out from under the more recent deposits. Viewing the country from an elevated position near our camp at Turug-at-bela^ the con- glomerate and gravel beds^ well clad with grass vegetation^ were seen to stretch far away eastwards^ and m a north-easterly direction across the Turug pass ; while on the south they were bounded by a continuation of the somewhat higher basaltic hills. Towards the west I traced them for about seven miles^ across a low pass at which a tributary of the Toyan rises in two branches ; while on the other side two similar streams flow west by south to join the Suyok river. To the north the proximity of a rather precipitously rising range shut the rest of the world out of view. For this ridge the name Terek-tagh of Humboldt^s map may be retained; its average height ranges between about 16^000 and 17,000 feet. In its western extension it runs almost due east-west^ composed at base of a tough limestone conglomerate of younger tertiaiy origin^ followed by white dolomitic limestone, and then .by a succession of slaty and dark limestone rocks, the former occasionally showing distinct signs of metamorphism, and changing into schist. All the beds are nearly vertical or very highly inclined^ dipping to north by west, the older apparently resting on the younger ones. North of Turug-at-bela the range makes a sudden bend in an almost northerly direction, and continues to the Chaderkul, where it forms the southern boundary of the lake-plateau. By this time the white dolomitic, and afterwards the slaty beds, had entirely disappeared, and with them the height has also diminished. A comparatively low and narrow branch of the range which we visited consists here entirely of dark limestone^ which in single fragments is not distinguishable from the Trias limestone of the Eoktan mountains, but here it does not contain any fossils. The ridge itself, after a short stretch in a north-east-by-north direction^ gradually disappears under the much younger conglomeratic beds. Across the Chaderkul plain the true Thian Shan range was visible, a regular forest of peaks seemingly of moderate and tolerably uniform elevation. The rocks all exhibited dark tints, but most of them, as well as the hills to the west of the Chaderkul, near the sources of the Arpa, were clad in snow. The lake itself was frozen, and the surrounding plain covered with a white sheet of saline efflorescence. Brief sketch of the geological history of the hill ranges traversed. — In order that the preceding remarks may be more easily understood^ I add a few wor^ regarding the changes which appear to have taken place at the close of the kainozoic epoch within the southern offshoots of the Thian Shan which we visited. Short as our sojourn in the mountains was^ it proved to be very interesting and equally instructive. Humboldt's account of the volcanicity of the I'hian Shan, chiefly taken from Chinese sources, receives great support ; but we must not speculate further beyond confiding in the expectation that both meso and kainozoic rocks will be found amply represented in it. As far as our present researches in the physical aspect of the country extend^ we may speak of three geologicallv different ranges : the Terek range, which is the northernmost, the Koktan in the middle, followed by the Artush range, below which begins the Kashghar plain. All three decrease in the same order in their absolute height, the last very much more so than the middle one. The first consists of. old sedimentary rocks, the second of similar rocks in its southern parts, while younger tertiary and basaltic rocks occupy the northern portions, the third is entirely composed of young tertiary deposits. The general direction of all the ranges is from w^ to east, or nearly so ; this direction evidently dating from the time when the whole of the Thian Shan chain was elevated. The undulating high plateau a91 ( 470 ) between the Terek and the Koktan is, near Turug-at-bela, about eight miles wide, the distance between the two ranges diminishing westward, while in the opposite direction it must soon more than double. Judging from the arrangement of the pebbles, which, as already noticed, are half derived from limestone, the direction of the old drainage must have been from west to east, and must have formed the headwaters of the Aksai river, which on the maps is recorded as rising a short distance east of the Chaderkul. Similarly, the gravel valley between the Koktan and Artush ranges indicates a west to east drainage, and its width appears to have approximately averaged 20 miles. About three miles north of Chungterek a secondary old valley exists, also extending from west to east, and is diametrically cut across by the Toyan river. In this valley, which was formerly tributary to the one lying more southward, the gravel beds accumulated to a thickness of fully 100 feet. As the Artush range did not offer a sufficiently high barrier, masses of the gravel passed locally over it or through its gaps into the Kashgar plain, which itself at that time form^ a third large broad valley. Thus, at the close of the volcanic eruptions in the hills north of Chakmik, we find three river systems all flowing eastward, and made more or less independent of each other by moun- tain ranges, about which it would, however, not be fair to theorize (in the present stale of our knowlege) on the causes of their assumed relative position. It must have been at that time that the pebbles of protogine were brought down from some portion of the hills lying to the west; and it would be interesting to ascertain whether or not this rock is anywhere in that direction to. be met with in situ. When the turbulent times of Volcan^s reign became exhausted and tranquillity was restored, the whole country south of the axis of the Thian Shan must have greatly subsided, and the wider the valleys have been the more effectively was the extent of subsidence felt. To support this idea by an observation, I may notice that north of Chungterek, at the base of the Koktan range, the Artush beds have entirely disap- peared in the depth, and the gravel beds overlaying them dip partially under the Trias limestone, a state of things which cannot be explained by denudation, but only by subsidence and consequent overturning of the older beds above the younger ones. A similar state of things is to be observed on the Terek range, where the young tertiary limestone conglomerate is in some places of contact overlain by the much older dolomite. Now, if the broad valley of the Kashgar plain sank first, and gradually lowest^ as it in all probability did, we find a more ready explanation of the large quantities of loose gravel pouring into it and accumulating at the base of the Artush range. The sinking in of the volcanic centre northrwest of Chakmdk first appears to. have drained off the former head of the Aksai river, making it the head of the Toyan instead ,- and to the north of the Terek ridge it was most probably the cause of the origin of the Chaderkul. The subsidence of the country followed in the south, making it possible for the united Suyok and Toyan rivers to force their passage right across the Koktan range, strengthen the Artush river, cut with facility through the Artush range, and join the Kashghardaria. While thus indicat- ing the com-se of the comparatively recent geological history of the ground, it must be, however, kept in mind that this change in the system of drainage had no essential effect upoi^ the direction of the hill rangeB. This, dating £ix,ni mnch older times, was mainly an east- westerly one, following the strike of the rocks which compose the whole pio^ntaii) system. fC ASUGAR, The \&th January 1874 .1 Section V. The Altun Artush considered from a Geological point qf view, by Dr. P. Stoliczea, Ph.D, (Veni sed non vidi.) As soon as the most important political business had been concluded by the signing of the Commercial Treaty by the Amir, Mr. Forsyth expressed a wish to visit the renowned tomb of Sultan Artush. The King accorded his permission, and instructed the Hakim, Mahomed Khoja, to assist us in travelling over the province under his care, to whatever extent Mr. Forsyth might desire. ( 471 ) Under the personal guidance of our envoy we — Dr. Bellew, Captain Chapman^ Captain Trotter, and myself — left Yangishar on the 14th of February reaching Altun Artush at a late hour the same day. As an introduction to the difficulties in travelling, our baggage did not arrive till next day, and we had to accommodate ourselves for the night on the carpets of the floor in a spacious but tolerably warm room. A halt of two days was desirable to enable us to make all necessary arrangements for our further movements. However, before I proceed I shall endeavour to give the reader an idea of the geographical position and limits of the country of which I shall speak in the subsequent lines. The data are derived from a general survey by Captain Trotter and from information given by the Hakim, Mahomed Khoja. Altun Artush, which is the chief place of the province, lies approximately in east longitude 76^ 8', and north latitude 39° 41', therefore about 2S miles north by east of Yangishar. It is situated in the western part of the Filai on the Bugos — here called Artush river — and north of a low ridge which separates the Artush Valley from the plains. The southern boundary runs along this ridge for about ten miles west of Altun Artush, and fi'om there almost due north to the crest of the Koktau range ; then along this range eastwards of the Belauti Pass (east longitude 77° 47' and north latitude 40° 41'), and from thence in a south-eastern direc- tion to the village of Kusltiyilak, some 15 miles north of Fyzabad in longitude 76° 42' 30'^ and latitude 39^ 28' 30.'' From here the southern boundary runs close to the right bank of the Kashghar river until about opposite to where the Artush river runs into the plains. During the first four days we all marched in company up the valley of the Bogos river to the Fort Tangitar about 23 miles to the north by west, then to a Khirghiz camp, Bashsu* gun, in a north-easterly diredlion ; Tugurmatti almost eastern ; and Ayaksugun in a south- eastern direction, the directions being from the last camps, respectively. At Ayaksugun Captain Trotter and I separated from the rest of the party marching northwards along the Ushturfan road to Gaitana, and from thence across the Jigda Jilga in a north-east by east direction to the camp at Uibulak, crossing the Uibulak Pass, passing a second Jilga, and turning then for about nine miles more northwards to the Belauti Pass, beyond which lies the valley of the Kakshal or Aksai river. On our return we passed Ayaksugun, Karaul, about a mile from our former camp of the same name, and visited Kultiyilak and Fyssabad returning to Yangishar on the 3rd March. It was not a very favorable time for travelling in these regions, not so much on account of the cold as in consequence of the heavy falls of snow which appear to occur over the whole of Tianshan during the second-.half of February and firstrhalf of March. During the last few days of February we were almost constantly wading in fresh fallen snow, though on the saline plains it melted very rapidly. The snow naturally interfered seriously with our observations. However obtaining even but a little addition to our knowledge of these hills was a better way of occupying our time than remaining in our somewhat glooming quarters. From a geological point of view tlje trip proved in many respects to be of considerable interest, particularly as supplementing some former observations made more to the west. Although there is not much variety in the rock formations, we may distinguish three successive series. The most southern part of the province, along the foot of the hills, is formed of alluvial gravels and sands, in whose unfathomable depths are swallowed both the Artush and Sujun rivers, before thiey can reach the Kashghar Daria. Wherever irrigation from the latter is possi-t ble the fields appear to be fe|*tile, but in the contrary case the land is not much more than a mere desert covered with low and scanty scrubs of Ephedra spJ The marshy grounds along the river a^e the breeding places of innumerable water-fowl. Brahmini ducks and pintails were already selecting sites for their i^ests on the 1st of March. The latter must have only just arrived, Where high grass occurs wild pigs are not uncommon. The second series includes the low hills which extend diametrically from north to south over about 30 miles while the prevalent strike is from north-east by east to south-west by west. All these lower hills are occupied by Artush beds, of which I spoke ii^ a former com- munication. They are separated into two groups. The lower beds consist of greenish or red- dish clays or sandstones, and the upper ones of coarse conglomerates, which on a hill south of Tangitar have a ^ihickness of about ^ thoi^nd fee^. A^ their contact both groups generally ( 472 ) alternate in several layers. An anticlinal runs almost through the middle of their superficial extent. At the foot of Agaksugun it is caused by a low ridge of old dolomitic limestones on which the Artush clays and sandstones found a firm support. To the south of it the beds dip at angles of about 40^ — 50^ towards the Kashghar plain in remarkably regular and successive layers. North of the ridge, which has no doubt a considerable subterranean extent in an east to west direction, all the beds dip towards north by west at a similar angle. Approach- ing the higher range more recent diluvial gravels cover most of the slopes. The geological puzzle of finding strata of young beds as a rule dipping towards a high range composed of comparatively much older rocks seems to me to be due, at least in this special case, to the phe- nomenon that the atmospheric waters which descending on the crest flow down the slopes of the high ridge, gradually soften them, and if a subterranean outlet facilitate it, the softened beds are worn away. While this process is going on the more distant beds simply subside in order to fill the vacant spaces. In some cases a sinking or rising of the main range, or even an overturn of high and precipitous cliffs, seem to go hand in hand with the action of erosion, but it is not always the case. I hope to illustrate this idea by a few diagrams, partly derived from actual observation) on some future occasion. A third series of entirely different rocks forms the main range of hills which are a con- tinuation of the Koktau range, and in which, more to the westward, are situated the Terek and Chakmak forts. The average height of the range is here between 12 and 1,300 feet — single peaks rising to about 1,500 feet. The whole of its southern portion consists as far as I could see of carboniferous rocks, in which, however, there is a great variety of structure. The lowest beds are very often a peculiar breccia limestone passing into regular limestone conglomerate. Above this are beds of solid grey dolomitic limestone, partly massive, partly stratified. I'he former possessing the character of reef limestone, and portions of it are indeed full of reef, building corals, crinoid stems, and a large spirifer, the sections of which when seen on the sur- face have a striking resemblance to those of megalodon. North of Tangitar and about Bashsugun I met in several places great numbers of fossils, but they were so firmly cemented in a calcareous matrix that only a few could be extracted. Among these I could recognize a small beleropAotij productui semureticulatus, and an atkyrU, A new terebratula was also veiy common. Here about Bashsugun and Tug^matti greenish shales occurred often interstratified with the limestones, beds of which were highly carbona- ceous j the shales appeared to be unfossiliferous. The limestone hills which, as already stated, are a continuation of the Koktau range, extend in a north-easterlv direction the whole way to south of the Belauti Pass, where they are overlain by a particularly well bedded dark limestone, veiy similar to that containing mega- lodon north of Chungterek. On this limestone rest greenish and purplish sandstones and shales which occupy the pass and the adjoining hills to the north-west of it ; mineralogically these last rocks are quite identical with what we understand under the name of '' Bunier sandstein,'^ and it is by no means improbable that the Belauti beds are also of triassic age, as they succeed in regular layers those of the carboniferous formation. A peculiar feature in this part of these hills consists in the occurrence of extensive plains to which the name Jilga is generally applied. It means originally, I think, merely a water- course, and on a large scale these plains may be looked upon as water-courses of former water- sheets. They occur at the base of the high range, and in some respects resemble the doons of the southern slopes of the Himalayas. North of Tangitar one of these large plains occurs within the limestone rocks, being surrounded by them on all sides. It must be about 30 miles long from east to west, and about 16 from north to south. Several isolated limestone hills and ridges occur in it, and it is drained off by the Bogos and Sugun rivers, the former rising in the south-west, the latter in the south-east comer. The average elevation is about 5,000 feet. The greater portion is covered with a low scrubby vegetation and, near the rivers, with high grass. The principal camping grounds are Bashsugun and Tugurmatti. The whole plain which affords a good pasturage ground is occupied by about 120 tents of Kirghiz during the summer. The next Jilga is the Jigda Jilga. It differs considerably both in its physical situation and in its general character from the former. It stretches from west by south to east by north ( 473 ) for about 35 miles^ while the diameter of the eastern half is about 20^ and that of the western about 12 miles. Save for a few low hillocks it is almost a level plain throughout. On the north-western^ northern^ and north-eastern side it is bounded by the Koktau range^ from which several water-courses lead into it^ one about the middle from the norths and one from north-east of considerable size^ this containing a large quantity of crystalline pebbles^ the rocks from which they are derived must be in ntu near the axis of the ridge. A third big stream comes from the east leading from the Uibulak Pass. None of these streams had any water in them. On the souths eastj and south-east the plain is bounded by the much lower hills composed of Artush beds^ their slopes covered with gravel. An elevated gap or saddle situated in the south-west corner appears to connect this Jilga with that of Tugurmatti. There is no drainage from this Jilga^ all the water is absorbed by the enormous thickness of sand and mud which fills the entire basin. This accounts for the comparatively rich vegetation which exists in it. There are several stretches ef regular poplar forest (P. nigra or P. bahamifera) up to 10 miles long and 4 to 5 miles in breadth. Besides which there are several places occupied by regular jungle of tamarix, myricaria, epAedra, and the peculiar wormwood^ from the seed of which the Kirghiz prepare satu. The tamarix and poplars must absorb during their growth a very large quantity of the mineral salts with which the entire ground is saturated ; the wood on being burnt gives out a strong smell of sulphur and chlorine. The poplar trees are not healthy^ they resemble oak trees covered with mistletoe. The branches are shorty stumpy^ and bushy. It is evident that the trees only exist in consequence of the subterranean moisture. There are a great number of springs through the forest and on its edges^ but on aecount of the level character of the plain no flowing streams exist except where there has been a very heavy snowfall and very rapid melting. It is satis&ctoiy to observe that within three marches of Kashghar there is such a large supply of wood^ though it is by no means good wood. I have already stated that the entire soil is very saline^ and it is remarkable to see how snow melts on this saline ground. Thus about four inches of snow fell while we were there. In one day all was melted away on the saline ground^ while near springs^ where the saline matters has been gradually dissolved out of the ground^ hardly any snow had melted. * Where the soil is more moist or even swampy^ and in river courses^ high reed grass is abundant. The southern part of the Jilga^ particularly south- east of Taitma^ is lowest^ and here a large quantity of pure salt in small cubical crystals is collected. The fact that there is such a large quantity of saline matter together with salt swamps in the southern part seems to prove that the Jilga at leasts and probably most of the others^ had been washed out by the sea^ and that while others had gradually^ though only partially^ drained off the saline matter^ this one retained it because it has at present no outlet. It is in fact a dried up saline lake^ which at some remote time was cut off from the sea of which it was a fjord. Jigda Jilga is occupied by about 150 to 170 Kirghiz tents, each tent may be taken as containing five souls. There are a few fields near Jigda camp^ and if there has been a large quantity of snow the crops are said to prosper very well. During the winter the Kirghiz are encamped in small groups near the different springs. They do not keep many horses^ but large number of sheep and goats and a few camels. One whole akoi is a light load for a camel. When packed the blankets are made into saddles over the hump of the animal. A third Jilga is south of the Belauti Pass and north-east of the Uibulak Pass. It is about eight miles in breadth and the same in length. There are two large water-courses lead- ing to it from the range. On the southern side it is enclosed by Artush and gravel beds, but whether an outlet exists is not known. It has no f orest, nor any kind of trees or large bushes, and the grass vegetation is scanty evidently on account of the dryness. A southernly outlet very likely exists. We met a few Kirghiz encamped here from Ush-Turfan. The only supply of water they had was melted snow, and as soon as the beds about are exhausted, they have to retreat with their flocks to the Kakshal vfvlley, a92 CHAPTER IX. COMMERCE. By Captain E. F. Chapman. If the development of western civilization^ and the growth of luxury in Europe have caused the great trade-marts of Asia^ subject to Anglo-Saxon influence^ to undergo changes proportionate to the general progress of the age^ commerce along the old trade routes to the Tartar kingdoms of Central Asia has but slightly varied through many centuries. ^ It is only now, as Russia from the north and west brings Moscow and St. Peters- burg in close contact with Bokhara, Samarkand, and Kashghar, that a radical change is imminent in commercial dealings, which afiEect not only the prosperity but the political standing of the countries intermediate between Russia in Asia and British India. According to the latest calculations goods of European manufacture may be trans- ported from Moscow to Tashkend by Russian agency in from 70 to 90 days at an average cost per pood (36Ibs.) of 90 copecks =-]^ths of a rouble, which may be said to vary from 2«. 6 Employing from 60 to 100 people each. 5. At Earatagh ... j At K&ppa and Soorg£k the mines are reported to be of great depth. The best gold is obtained at Soorgf&k, where it is found in small beads and is of a red color ; at Kllppa, the nuggets are larger, but the color is a pale yellow and the ore is mixed with sand. ( 4.76 ) The working of the mines is thus conducted : — ^The miners^ men and women, are of the poor of the country, who sell the gold to licensed purchasers under the supervision of Grovem- ment officials. From the original peld a fifth part is at once appropriated by the Amir, who further reserves the right of purchasing the remainder from the r^^ar dealers at the rate of 120 Tungas per ser, the value in the market reaching 138 Tungas — (1 serssS^ tolahs). No guard is kept at the mines, but small detachments of soldiers watch the pro- ceedings, and there are regular searching houses, no gold being supposed to reach the market but through the authorized channel. At these searching houses the men are stripped, and women are made to jump over a broad ditch in order that any gold they may have concealed in their clothes may fall out. The punishment for secreting gold is very light, and the whole of the officials employed are said to take bribes to allow of its being t^ken direct to the market, where it is in great demand by foreign ti*aders. If a merchant is discovered to have purchased gold irregularly, no more than a fifth part is confiscated, and the remainder is purchased at the fixed Government rate. The gold mines in the Khoten province produce some 7,000 s^rs, of which 5,000 sers are said to reach the Amir's treasury, the remainder passing direct into the bazaar; this represents an income of 1,68,000 rupees. Gold is readily bought up by merchants from Hindustan and Andijan. The transport of the best gold of Khoten to India yields a profit of from 23 to 24 per cent. Gold of an inferior quality is obtained by washing from the Yarkand river ; this is allowed free entry to the market; its transport to India secures a profit of 11 ^ P^^ cent. Sericulture in Khoten dates from the earliest times. M. Remusafs account of the intro- duction of the silk-worm into this place is as follows, pp. 55, 65 :— " Au sud est de la ville royale, k cinq ou six li, on voit le monasteyre de Lou-che, fonde par une ancienne reine du pays. Autrefois les habitants du royaume ne connaissaient ni les muriers ni les vers k soie. On entendit patler de ceux qu'il-y-avait dans les royaumes orientaux, et Fon envoya un ambassadeur pour en demander. Le roi d'orient se ref usa a oette demande, et fit une defense tr^s severe aux gardiens des frontier^ et aux donaniers de laisser sortir ni miiriers ni semence de vers. Alors le roi de Kia-sa-tan-na fit demander une princesse en manage. Quand le roi d'orient, plein de tendresse pour les contrees lointaines, la lui eut accorded, le roi, chargea ?officier qui devait aller la prendre, de lui dire que dans son royaume, il n'-y-avait point d'habits de soie, parce qu'on n^-y-avait pas de muriers ni de cocons, et qu'il fallait en apporter, afin d'avoir de quoi se faire des habits. La princesse, ainsi avertie, se procura secr^tement de la semence des uns et des autres, et la cacha dans Petoffe de son bonnet. Quand le cortege fut arriv6 k la frontiere, celui qui y-commandait chercha partout; il n-y-eut que le bonnet de la princesse auquel il n'osa toucher. Arriv6e dans le pays de Kia-sa- tan-na, elle s'arrSta dans le lieu oil a et^ depuis le monast^re de Lou-che ; et pendant que les ceremonies de sa reception se preparaient, elle deposa en ce lieu la semence de miirier et des vers. Au printemps on planta les arbres, et la princesse alia assister elle-mSme aux operations de la r^olte des feuilles. On fut obligor dans le commencement de nourrir les vers k soie avec les feuilles de quelques autres arbres ; mais enfin les miiriers pouss^rent, et la reine fit graver sur la pierre une defense de faire perir les papillons jusqu'a ce qu'on put se procurer une quantity N.JS,-— The export of gold and silver, excepting in the form of the established coinage, has lately been prohibited bj the Amir. Specimens of Qalena containing a large admixtnre of silver are in the Mission Masenm. Theee were obtained from Shakchn in a ravine to the S.-W^. of Yarkand, known as Koohrab» about 80 miles in a direct line from Tarkand. Daring the occupation of the Chinese, the silver mine from which this ore was taken, was worked for seven yean ; its working has been long discontinued, but the Dadkhwah of Yarkand contempUtes obtaining silver once more from Shakchu. ( 477 ) BujSisante de cocons : oontrevenir ^ cet ordre ^tait^ disait le d^cret^ k revolter contre la lumiere et renoncer k la protection des dieux/' The quality of Khoten silk has always been considered superior ; owing^ however^ to an inferior method of reeling, it cannot compete with the silk of Khokand, and Khoten manu- &ctured silk is valueless as an article of export ; it is, however, largely used by women in chogas, and a mixed cloth of silk and cotton, known as silk chakman (mushroo), is very commonly worn by both sexes. The wearing of garments, made entirely of silk, bv men, being prohibited by the Sheriat, such have been discontinued as articles of men^s apparel since the expulsion of the Chinese. As a rule, the silk manufacture is a purely domestic business ; that is, both reeling and manufacture are carried on in the house where the eggs are hatched and the worms reared ; there is, however, a sale for cocoons in the market, the purchasers being regular traders, who sell again to reelers ; spun silk being again bought by Andijani merchants and others. Silk weavers laboring apart are usually employed by Andijani merchants, one of whom, last year, made some improvement in the reeung process, and arranged for the working of 15 reels by the turning of a single wheel. I refer to this in order to show that the introduction of machinery would be readily welcomed in Khoten. In a note on sericulture placed in the Appendix, I have detailed what I have been able to gather on this subject. Although manu&ctured silk is not exported, it is found profitable to send spun silk to the markets of Khokand, and the waste silk of Khoten finds a sale at Almati (Vemoe). (The paper used for the note currency in Russian Turkestan is said to be made from this.) This year, at the request of Mr. Christie of the Sujanpur Filature (near Gurdaspiir in the Punjab), an order was given in Yarkand for cocoons of Khoten silk to be brought down to the Filature ; it was further arranged to send a certain number of cocoons to the Filature of His Highness the Maharaja of Kashmir as an experiment. It is hoped that the money these cocoons will fetch in the markets of Kashmir and Umritsur will fully repay the cost of carriage. Mr. B. B. Shaw, in his Trade Report of 1873-74, as British Joint Commissioner of Ladakh, paragraph 63, indicates further an opening in England for the sale of refuse silk and pierced cocoons from Khoten. " The trade in refuse silk and cocoons also promises well. Pierced cocoons (that is, thos^ out of which the grub has eaten its way) are considered utterly worthless in Central Asia, yet in England these same pierced cocoons are in great demand, as they are treated by carding machinery and spun into threads which are used in various &brios. There is no silk reeling industry in England, I believe, to utilise entire cocoons. The probable price mentioned for the pierced ones in Khoten is such as to leave a hundred per cent, profit after paying all expenses when compared with the rate offered in England. When a demand springs up the Khoten rate will most likely rise, leaving only a more moderate profit." The carpets of Khoten are celebrated for the excellence of their manufacture, and for the variety of their patterns : they are made at three places in the province, Sumpula, Yungk&sh and near Khoten itself : they are made either of silk or of wool, and gold thread is often intro- duced into the pattern. The wool made use of is chiefly obtained from the Kirghiz settled in the mountain districts south of Khoten, by whom it is spun and sold in the weekly bazaars ; the dyeing is carried out by the carpet manufacturer. Madder, indigo, and cochineal are amongst the imported dyes, the mordants employed being alum in the case of browns and yellows, and grape juice for blues and mixed colors. The cost of labor in the Khoten district is veiy slight, and the carpet-makers are hired as required by those who are rich enough to purchase the material and set up the frames. There are two kinds of frames, the standard frame which is placed perpendicularly, and a horizon- tal frame which is placed near the ground ; the latter is generally used with large carpets, but the perpendicular frame allovra of tibie work being better done. a93 ( 478 ) The sizes of Khoten carpets range from the small saddle carpet^ on which one man works at a time^ to carpets upon which ten men are employed at once : these are about three and a half yards wide. The work is carried on in all cases under the superintendence of a master who is termed Aksak&l (white-beard)^ there being some 200 recognized masters in Khoten itself . The patterns do not exist on paper^ but are passed on from master to pupil by word of mouth. Workers employed in the manufacture of Government carpets receive a daily wage of 20 phool = 2^//. English money^ while in private houses food is supplied g^tis and a payment of one-half of the above is made. Recognizing the possibility of reviving the old trade in articles of cut Jade, which under the Chinese rule was a source of wealth to the people of Khoten, the Amir has endeavoured to obtain an opening for .the trade in Jade by way of Almati (Vemoe), where Chinese merchants are now appearing in search of such articles from Kashghar and Khokand as have at all times been prized in China. M. Remusat in speaking of the appreciation in which Jade is held amongst the Chinese and others, says: — "Les peuples de L^Asie orientale attachent le plus grand prix k une espece de pierre nomme^ en Chinois iu or iu-chi. Beaucoup de voyageurs et de Missionaries ont parler de Festime que les Chinois ont pour oette substance minerale, et des usages varies auxquels ils Temploient.'^ The fact that the Jade thus spoken of is known to exist nowhere save in the valleys running down from the Kuen-Luen, where the supply appears to be inexhaustible, has no doubt caused its value in the market to rise out of proportion to other minerals of a similar character ; and if skilful workmen could be brought &om China to replace those who fell victims during the Mahomedan re-occupation, the Jade of Khoten might still be regarded as a source of wealth to the kingdom of Kashghar. The demand for highly finished cups and ornaments in this mineral is sure to be kept up, but the endeavour to sell uncut Jade at Almati (Vemoe) for transport to China and to Russia has proved a failure. Just as the mineral has acquired a special value from being found in only one locality, the art which rendered it acceptable in the market belonged solely to the Chinese Jade-outters of Khoten. Interesting information regarding the Jade mines in the Karakash valley will be found amongst the Geological notes of the late Dr. F. Stoliczka. The iron ore met with by the members of the Mission can only be considered as of very inferior quality : it is chiefly obtained in the Kizzil Tagh to the north-west of Yarkand; it meets certain local requirements, and is used in the manufacture of agricultural implements and horse shoes. Copper, alum, and salamoniac are, however, unquestionably sources of wealth, and exist in sufficient quantity in the southern slopes of Tian Shan, to allow of their being largely exported towards Khokand. There is no Government monopoly in the mining of copper ore in the districts of Aksu, Bai, and Kuchar, whence it is chiefly procured. There are regular miners who can be hired by any one choosing to try for copper, the agreement with them being that they receive one- half of whatever is extracted. The copper mine between Yagh Aryk and Bai, which may be taken as a fair specimen, is in a low range of hills ; the ore is encountered at a depth of from SO to 86 feet : it is usually calculated that the ore yields from one-ninth to one-eighth of pure copper. A pound of copper sells in Bai for a sum equal to about 4 pence of English money. Although the mining is freely open to all, the smelting furnace on the spot is under Government supervision ; the contractor engaged in mining paying the wages of the smelters and one-seventh of the pure copper obtained in return for the use of the furnace. Salamoniac is obtained in lai^e quantities from the neighbourhood of a volcano, about one day^s journey to the north of Kuchar: it sells on the spot for about 11 pence the pound. ( 479 ) As cotton and cotton cloth of local manufacture are articles of export towards the Khanates through Khokand^ and to the Russian settlement through Almati (Yernoe)^ it maj not be uninteresting to give some account of the growth of cotton. Throughout the entire kingdom cotton is grown for home consumption^ cleaned and woven into cloth for the family use in the household of each cultivator^ and for sale^ as cloth^ thread, or raw cotton^ at the weekly bazaar. The best cotton is unquestionably produced in the district of Eanarik^ to the south-east of ELashghar. There are three different qualities of cotton. 1st. — Olderum or AksaidL The seed of this plant is said to have been originally imported from Khokand^ for which reason the cotton it yields is called Andijani cotton. The plant grows to a height of about three feet; the pod is larger than with the other two kindSj and by comparison the peld of cotton is greater^ and of seed less. This description is not grown in very large quantities, owing to the &ct that the seed is not so easily obtained as that of the other cottons; its cultivation too requires special care, and the soil in which it is grown needs to be more richly manured than is usual with other crops. The first description of cotton cloth, known as Chdkman, is prepared from this cotton. Ch&kman sells at from 1 rupee to 1-4 rupee per ThiLn, the length of which varies from 14 to 16 yards, and which is 1 1 inches wide. 2«rf. — Kara Kiwaz is the cotton usually met with : the plant is a low one, not growing much above two feet in height; the pod is smaller than that of the Aksakdl cotton, and the proportion of seed to cotton in the yield much greater. A medium description of cloth, known as Ellm, is prepared from this; a Th&n of K&m, 6 yards long and 18 inches broad, sells for from 6 to 8 annas. Srd.-^Mella or Kizzil (red) Kiwaz, so called from the coloring of the cotton which has a reddish tinge. This is a low plant like the previous one, and the proportion of cotton and seed in the yield is similar. The Kim prepared from this retains the reddish color spoken of, and is rarely dyed. The usual price in the market of cleaned cotton is 3 rupees the charak of 20Ibs. It occasionally rises higher, but there is really very little fluctuation, and the cottons from the three plants abovementioned obtain the same price when cleaned and exposed for sale. Where large families exist, it is more profitable to sell the cotton prepared, as thread or as K&m, than in its raw state. Although at the present moment Ch&kman and E&m are readily purchased in the bazaars by the Agents of traders who export to Khokand and Almati, and Mr. Shaw refers to these descriptions of cloth as being regularly sold in the bazaars at Leh, the capital of Ladakh, it would nevertheless be a mistake to consider the districts of Kashghar as favourable to the production of cotton. The seed is sown in April, and the crop is gathered in October and the b^^ning of November, there being only two pluckings at an interval of about fifteen days. There appears to be great waste in the expenditure of seed, the plants being allowed to come up too close together, and ther^ bein^ no thinning of the crop. Cotton, moreover, is rarely grown for two years running on the same land. A few years back the Chinese appear to have made an effort to encourage the further growth of cotton, but without success. The peculiar requirements of each family necessitate the growth of a sufficient quantity on each holding to supply, as far as possible, the immediate wants of its members; but the difficulties encountered in tiie growth of cotton make it an unpopular crop. The fact is that the surplus cloth and cotton of each establishment is all that finds its way into the market, whence it is collected through numerous agents for export, The pro- ducers are ignorant of the laws which should raise the price of their production, which realizes an even price, though the demand is practically unlimited. ( 480 ) The Pashm of Turfan and of other places in the Kashghar dominions being one of the articles of export^ deserves notice amongst the products of the conntry ; the demand for it in Kashmir and British India is however so small tluit it can never have much inflaenoe on the trade of the country generally. It has been supposed that precious stones are easily obtained in the markets of Eastern Turkestan. The impression which has prevailed on this subject is erroneous^ and geological investigation has made it clear that whatever precious stones exist, have been imported. Bubies, emeralds, and lapis lazuli from Badakshan, pearls from Persia, and turquoises from Khorassan (by way of Bokhara), and corals from China. Wherever Chinese wealth has had an influence, coral, emeralds, rubies, and pearls have been used in the decoration of Chinese idols, and the ornaments of women ; but few however remain in Kashghar, excepting amongst the treasures of the Amir, who is said to have success- fully despoiled the palaces and temples of former Chinese rulers, and no doubt possesses considerable wealth in the form of precious stones. No clearer review of the actual state of the trade between British India and Eastern Turkestan can be given than that contained in Mr. Shaw's last report on trade at Ladakh, and the "proceedings of the hon'ble the Lieutenant-Governor of the Punjab, in the Foreign Department,^' extracts from which are herein incorporated. " It is to be remembered that, though the development of trade between Yarkand and British India has received the careful attention of the British Government for upwards of six years, though transit duties have been abolished, and special officers appointed to watch over the interests of traders, the total value of the trade with Eastern Turkestan, though the greatest on record, amounted last year to less than £60,000, a great increase compared with what it was, but after all an amount which must be considered altogether insignificant ; and here it may be noted that the statement made in the first paragraph of the report that the trade through Ladakh increased by two lakhs of rupees, is perhaps likely to mislesid.* It is true that the sum total of imports and exports by the several routes increased in value from Rupees 15,84,800 to Rupees 17,76,729, but, as explained in paragraph 88, the imports and exports being the same goods, the value of the transit trade is really only half the totsd shown above. " Again, it must be confessed that the greater our experience of the routes between Indian and Yarkand, the greater do the difficulties appear in the way of establishing a satisfactory trade route, owing to the length of the journey, the enormous altitudes to be traversed, the arid and unproductive character of a large portion of the country, the absence of population, and the deficiency of carriage and supplies.'' The remarks which follow on the commerce of the country under the Amir's rule, and which are supported by notes in the Appendix, claim to be interesting, as resulting from obser- vations made in the two principal markets of Eastern Turkestan which are open directlv to foreign trade, viz., Kashghar and Yarkand, the latter receiving its supplies principally from British India, and the former so far as foreign productions are concerned, being at present wholly dependent on Russian sources of supply through Almati (Vernoe) and Khokand. Russian articles furnished to the markets of Eastern Turkestan are, in many respects, a close imitation of the products which from the earliest days have been in use, and are of Chinese introduction. With some of these, owing to their weight, the Indian market cannot profitably compete, but they must at all times represent a large item in the consignments from the Russian side. * I. — Iron and cast-iron vessels ; the former used in the manufacture of horse shoes, and of implements of agriculture, and in the Amir's workshops, the latter in use in every household as cooking vessels. Note.— From Tales' " Cathay and the way thither," preliminary Essay XLIL~(Qaoting Fliny.) " Ex omnihns aiitem generihas palma Serico f erro est. Seres hoc cnm vestihns snis peUibns que mittunt." Again (Julien quoted by Lassen.) " We found cast-iron pots and pans of remarkable quality to form a chief item among the misceUaneons notions" (apart from the silk which is the staple imported by the Chinese into Ava by the Yunan road. The art of castang iron ( 481 ) II. — Brass vessels and candlesticks. Although I have stated generally that it is comparatively unprofitable to carry iron from India to Yarkand across the Karakorum^ I should mention that Wazir Goshaon professed to have cleared a large profit on a load of made up horse shoes sent^ by way of experiment^ with his caravan in 1867. Articles of luxury being in small demand^ and household furniture reduced to a minimum by the simple habits of the Turks^ there remain but few articles of import^ and^ so far as I can ascertain^ Indian traders can undersell all others when offering them to buyers in the markets I have visited. These are — 10. — ^Madder (and other dyes). 11. — Su^^. 12. — Spioes. 13. — ^Arms. 14. — Percussion caps. 16. — Tobacco. 16. — Otter skins. 17. — Cored skins. 18. — ^Nick-nacks. 1. — Cotton piece-goods. 2. — Muslins. 3. — Chintzes. 4 — Broadcloths (a very small demand). 6. — Velvet. 6. — ^Kinkab. 7.— Tea. 8. — Opium. 9. — Indigo. That the trade in these articles so far as Kashghar is concerned is in the hands of Russian traders^ the following detail of a caravan which arrived from Khokand at the end of March in this year wOl dhow. This caravan comprised 1^635 loads^ of which 600 loads were piece-goods and chintzes^ the remainder, 1,086 in number, being made up of madder, indigo, tobacco, iron, and steel. The piece-goods, cloths, and chintzes were unquestionably Russian, but the indigo was said to have found its way from India vid Bokhara, and the madder was originally obtained from Badakshan« This caravan was a larger one than usual, owing to the fact that the merchants had been detained in Khokand in consequence of political disturbances. The total number of loads reaching Kashghar yearly by way of Khokand may be estimated at from three to four times the amount of this single caravan, i,e., from 5,000 to 6,000 loads, more than half the goods reaching Khokand, in the first instance, directly from Tashkend. Almati (Vemoe) is in far closer connection with the Kashghar market than Khokand and the arrival of small consignments from Russian territory, in return for which the merchants carry back cloth and cotton, gold, copper, alum, salamoniac, and ohuras, is pretty continuous throughout the year. The detail of merchants resident in Kashghar, which is given in the Appendix, will show that regular agencies are established between tiie markets of Khokand and Almati, and that of Kashghar. The Russian cpnsignments brought over are usually of a mixed character, comprising iron vessels, iron, steel, brass vessels, spices, sugar, honey, earthenware (Chinese), tea, otter skins, Russia leather, cloths and chintzes, bon-bons, matches, and a variety of nick-nacks. I have no data upon which to estimate accurately the total amount of trade between Almati and ELashghar, but the trade is an increasing one, and certainly exceeds that which passes by way of Khokand ; to explain the nature of the return traflSc along the Khokand route, I will here give the detail of the first outward caravan this season, which left Kashghar in February, taking the route across the Terek Pass. Total horse loads 871. No. qf loads, CoHper load in Tuiigas, Country doth, of Kashghar, K&m and Chakman ... 220 600 Churas ... ... ... ... 284 800 Numdas (felts) ... ... ... ... 120 500 Carpets ... ... ... ... 25 650 is, like most Chinese arts, a very old one, and we find thati in the first century before Christ, the people of Tawan or Farghana acquired the new art of casting iron tools and utensils from Chinese deserters." NJS, — The usual water yessels, the Aftaba and Chilumchi, are of copper, tinned oyer, and aro This consignment was divided between 50 men^ of whom the eight principal had invest- ments as under : — Mahomed Caravan hashi ... 15 horse loads. Mahomed Saleh Bai ... ... 40 ditto. Mahomed Kareem Bai ... ... 50 ditto. Mir Jan Bai of Margilan ... 40 ditto. Mahomed Khan Bai ... ... 30 horse loads. AibBai ... ... ... 20 ditto. Mahomed Ashgar Bai ... 45 ditto. Mahomed AliBatcha... ... 40 ditto. The remaining 591 loads were distributed amongst 42 men. A certain amount of trade from Russian markets is said to reach the towns of Aksu^ Bai Sairam^ Kuchar^ and Turfan by way of Kuldja and the Muzart Pass^ but of this I could gain no information of a reliable character^ and the business transacted must^ under any conditions^ be comparatively insignificant. It is very difficult to fix exactly the trade relations which unite the markets of Russian Turkestan and of Bokhara^ and Khokand with Kashghar ; the impetus of the trade which finds a centre in Eashghar is^ however^ from without. The merchants engaged are either Andijanis who have settled in the Amir's capital of late years^ or the goods moving along the several trade routes are bought and sold by agents of merchants living beyond the border. Notes of credit^ or exchange transactions of money between the different markets^ are quite unknown in general commercial dealings^ though^ between friends^ arrangements are made in Kashghar for the payment of small sums in Almati and Khokand, or even in Bokhara. The statement made before the Royal Geographical Society that there are Banks in Yarkand is quite unfounded. Between merchants at the different places exchanges of goods are occasionally made under written authority: but there are only some three men in Kashghar, and two in Yarkand, possessing sufficient capital to allow of transactions outside the ordinary caravan trade. The Amir's rule has not been of sufficiently long duration to attract traders of wealth, and beyond the money spent in investments for the return trip, the gains of the trader are usually spent without the country. If capital be accumulated in Kashghar, the owner of wealth is at present afraid to acknowledge his good fortune, though a more enlightened policy, and the con- clusion of the commercial treaties with Russia and Great Britain, have already improved the standing of traders throughout the country. The present condition, position, and privileges of traders in the Amir's dominions, now that these treaties are established facts, will bear favorable comparison with \vhat is met with in any other Mahomedan country in Asia. The enlightened treatment of traders who have reached Yarkand from India, Badakshan, and elsewhere, by the Dadkhwah Mahomed Yunus Jan, is quite exceptional ; the lead that he has taken in this matter has been fully approved by the Amir, and during our intercourse with Aalish Dadkhwah, the Governor of Kashghar, we had every reason to feel satisfied that he was equally inclined to promote the interests of trade. The removal of the disabilities under which Hindoo merchants have labored in the Maho- medan States of Central Asia by the Amir is an earnest of further progress. .y.J?.— Almonds and Pistachios are brought with profit from Badakshan, and no Dasterkhwan b complete nnlev ])on-bons with Kussian mottoes are offered to the guest. ( 483 ) We have had practical experience of the fact that Hindoo sind Mahomedan traders are treated with impartiality^ and no sketch of the commercial prospects of the Amir's country would be complete which did not bring prominently to notice the absence of prejudice which rendered possible in diplomatic negociations the consideration of questions affecting Mahome- dan and Hindoo traders without prejudice to the latter. The system of barter which prevails in the markets of Eastern Turkestan is inseparable from the conditions of the trade^ and the length of time occupied in passing from market to market. I have already mentioned that the evils attending it will be modified by the issue of gold and silver coinage from the Amir's Mint. In the relations of the Yarkand market with India^ the length of time during which an Indian merchant trading across the frontier must be absent from his home, when once he has determined to cross the Karakorum^ makes the investments for the return journey a part of the dingle venture which has enticed him to face the journey^ and he does not count his profits until he is safe at home once more. On reaching the city of Yarkand he secures rooms in one of the principal serais, care- fully stores his goods, and then, through the medium of the Deldl or Agent attached to his particular fraternity, makes known their number and quality in the market. It is only by slow degrees that his bales are unpacked, and his wares exposed, while little by little he accumulates a store of goods for the return venture. The real skill of the mer- chant becomes apparent in selecting articles for the return journey, that will bring him a fair profit in the Indian markets, and in converting the copper coinage which he must necessarily receive in large quantities into gold or other portable material. A quick return in this description of commerce is practically impossible, nor is it necessary to traders whose personal expenditure is at all times exceptionally small ; but this fact must exclude European competitors from the market, or must, at any rate, place them at so great a disadvantage, as to render it unlikely that they can undertake to trade on their own account with success. The market does not admit of any large consignment of a single description being readily disposed of, and the selection of a mixed consignment of those articles most likely to prove acceptable, requires considerable skill and experience. It will be. seen that difference of quality only in piece-goods does not assure a propor- tionate advantage in sale : the fact is that choice of color is of more account than quality, and fashion has a great deal to cay to color. Bright colored goods, and cloths of one color throughout, are much appreciated. With prints, the larger patterns are the most esteemed : it is however essential that goods upon which figures of men or animals are represented should not be offered for sale in the market of a Mahomedan country. Amongst the upper classes, greys and stone colors are fashionable, being in keeping with the unostentatious costume of the Amir himself, who aims ^t a singular simplicity in dress, as in other matters. Goods are often disposed of on a trust extending over two or three months, with no other than a personal security, and instances of faUujre in payment are not known. This is a con- venience to the foreign trader, the borrower becoming practically his agent for sale. Previous to the arrival of the Mission in Yarkand it had been supposed that green tea only was in use in Turkestan, no other having been, in former times, imported from China : it is now, however, placed beyond doubt that the black teas of our Indian plantations are highly approved of. The adulteration of China tea has, too, caused Indian teas to be sought for. In the present condition of the market, goods of the best quality will as a rule prove the most profitable investment for merchants proceeding from India to Yarkand. The introduction of adulterated or inferior goods from our side might destroy the confi- dence which has been established through the long residence of a British Mission in Kashghar, Assuming that the most seasonable time for the passage of the mountain plateau of the Karakorum is towards the end of September^ the Indian trader will leave Ladakh, if possible. ( 484 ) by the end of August : two courses then remain open to him ; he may return in the foUowing year^ either at the first opening of the passes before the snow meltings have swelled the moun* tain torrents^ which for some time remain impassable^ or at the end of the season, when he will reach Ladakh, but just in time to make his way to India before the winter snows have barred the passes in the southern Himalayas. In the one case the period of his absence from the Punjab may extend over from 10 to IZ months, and in the latter will be lengthened out to from 16 to 18 months. His venture must be limited to suit the period of absence intended. In the longer period of absence it seems a fair estimate to suppose that a single trader can dispose of a consignment of from Rupees 10,000 to Rupees 20,000 and reinvest for sale at home. While if the shorter period only is allowed he will be able to sell no more than from Rupees 5,000 to 10,000 worth of goods. In either case, once he has reached the Indian markets again, his bales are quickly converted into cash and he counts the proceeds. Hitherto he has not rested satisfied with a total return of less than 100 per cent., 70 per cent, being cleared on the outward venture, and 30 per cent, on the goods brought back to India. The facts put forward in the lists given in the Appendix would prove that, after the pay- ment of road expenses, and a fair allowance for loss, this sanguine estimate does not far exceed what may be realized by an intelligent trader who ventures across the lofty Kafakorum in search of gain. 'What then are the causes which put a limit upon our trade with Eastern Turkestan ? Beyond the difficulties of the road, and the small amount of our traders, competent to undertake the adventurous journey involved, I cannot do better than quote Mr. Slutw^s last report in explanation of the main difficulty which prevents an expansion of trade between British India and Yarkand, up to that point where the limit of the demand on that side the mountains, must so far reduce the profits to be realized that the venture ceases to attract. A limit to be measured by the amount of population, and the success which attends an attempt to secure some portion of the trade with Kashghar, which is now in the hands of Russian and Khokandi merchants. Mr. Shaw in speaking of the difficulty experienced on this side in obtaining carriage for the journey, says : — " It was almost impossible therefore to get carriage last season northward from Ladakh. The few avaUable animals were engaged by the first comers, and, later in the year. Rupees 70 was asked and given as the hire of a baggage horse to Yarkand ; whereas the rate usual in former years was Rupees 40 or 50 each. Such being the state of affairs, most of the traders from the south, including returning Yarkandis, had to wait at Ladakh till the caravan should arrive, as their only means of getting carriage. Its delay was therefore the more felt. " Up to the year 1870 the chief difficulty in point of carriage lay between the Punjab and Ladakh ; while between the latter place and Yarkand it was plentiful. Now the tables are completely turned. While the northern section of the road is reduced to such straits as are described in the last paragraph, the southern section, viz., from the Punjab to Ladakh, is fully supplied. This was in the first place made possible by the construction of the excellent hill road, which now leads from the Kangra valley through Kulu and Lahoul. But the establish- ment of mule traffic on this road was due to the creation in 1870 of the Kulu mule train by Captain Harcourt, under the Orders of Colonel Coxe, Commissioner of the Jullundur Division. The example of this train has been since followed by numerous private mule owners from the Punjab, who reap great profit from this traffic, undertaken at a time of the year (the hot weather and rains) when their business is slack in the plains. Last season the number of mules which came to Ladakh amounted to S75, against 250 the year before, and this most materially aided the local supply of carriage, — the nucleus of the mule traffic. The Kulu train also did good service last season by venturing beyond Ladakh, with provisions for Mr. Forsyth^s Embassy, to the very borders of the Yarkand dominions at Shahid-ullah ; thus showing the way, and a second time, over a new section of road. The carriage difficulty then seems in fair way of ( 485 ' ) • beings solved^ for the whole mule-supply of the Punjab is becoming available for employment in the Turkestan trade. ^' Thanks to the improvement of the road and the removal of various impediments efPected by His Highness the Maharaja^ the route through Kashmir has also come into extensive use^ thus providing two roads instead of one to Ladakh. This is a very hopeful circumstance^ as it doubles the total 6f carriage available/^ The return of carraige available for trade purposes in Yarkand territory which I have been able to prepare^ certainly shows a very small supply with reference to what our traders require, but the number of Yarkand ponies which reach Ladakh and are available for the return journey, is measured by the amount of goods imported from Turkestan. Practically there is no limit to the pony carriage on the Yarkand side, and, when required, the supply now kept up by the Kerai-Kush (professional hirers of carriage) might be increased to any extent. The amount of carriage required for the exportation of goods from India is necessarily greater than that demanded for the trade coming this way. In proof of this, I cannot do better than insert the remark lately made by Mr. Shaw on this subject : — " Proceeding to a consideration of the several headings under which the trade is grouped, the imports from Turkestan show a trifling increase of Rupees 8,927. '' The increase noted above consists of the balance between the greater quantity of certain articles and the smaller quantity of others that were brought down from Yarkand in the two successive years. An examination of these differences is instructive as showing the tendency of the trade. The increase is mpreciotts metals y horses ^ jade ^ pashm, and raw silk chiefly; while the decrease is in charras, coarse cotton goods, carpets and felts, furs, leather, sea-weed, silk fabrics axid precious stones, Sfc. y as a class, it wUl be observed, the former are articles of high value in proportion to their weight, or else such as carry themselves, viz,, horses ; while the latter are chiefly (though not entirely) bulky articles of less intrinsic value. '' This seems to show that the selections made in Yarkand with the view (which we know was in fact carried out) of the owners pushing rapidly down to India without being encumbered with heavy goods. This would imply a greater anxiety to obtain English or Indian goods, than to get rid of any particular articles of Turkestan production. The same anxiety has been marked in previous years, and is an encouraging feature of the trade. " The steady increase in the articles of ^oW, *Afl«^^w(?(?/? (pashm), raw silk, 8fc,, since the year 1867 (when a British officer was first appointed to Ladakh) is remarkable. In that year the import of gold (dust and 'tillas') wa^ Rupees 8,932 worth; in 1871 it was Rupees 85,899 worth; in 1872 it was Rupees 1,04,966 worth; in 1873 it rose to Rupees 1,49,498 worth, or about 45 per cent, of the imports from Yarkand. " Shawl-wool (pashm) also is steadily rising. In 1871 it stood for Rupees 28,550 ; in 1872 Rupees 36,330 ; and in 1873 Rupees 42,600, or nearly 13 per cent, of those imports. "The value of raio silk imported in the year 1871 was only Rupees 3,072; in 1872 it rose to Rupees 19,012; in 1873 to Rupees 25,500, including a small quantity (Rupees 132 worth) of cocoons, or nearly 8 per cent, of the imports. "Horses have risen from a value in 1871 of Rupees 16,650; in the year 1872 to Rupees 20,400 ; and in 1873 to Rupees 27,580, or over 8 per cent, of the imports. They are mostly strong hill-ponies. " The steady progress of all these items is most encouraging, as they are of a nature calculated to put the trade on a solid foundation.^' In calling attention to the necessity for giving some stimulus to the arrangements now existing for the supply of horses and mules to traders, I quote verbatim a short note regarding the horses and y&ks now available on this side of the passes which has been given to me by Mr. Johnson, the Wazir of Ladakh. In Eulu there are only about 40 horses to be had. In Lahoul about 200, but these are being sold off by the villagers since mules have begun to come up from the Punjab. a95 ( 486 ) Four hundred mules have been generally employed on the Kulu road — ^they come from Eangra^ Noorpur, and Hushiarpur. This season about 800 mules have come in. There are a great number of horses to be procured in Eashifur^ but they are mostly too weak to carry loads over the high plateau of Tibet. There are about 600 horses in Dras and Kirgil fit for carrying loads. The horses of Leh are particularly small and weak^ there are about 250 in all through Ladakh. The entire number of y&ks fit for carriage in Ladakh is about 1^000. Number of y&ks in Nubra^ Leh^ &c.^ available for crossing the Sasair^ Digai^^ &nOe9aDie^OOO^O&^O«fi^OTO«b6 •9/Z/l\ i6 nift f«i f-i M A ^ « A M • m OT ^ db » tp t- a» M jb M fH o iH Kih db db oeo CD 4D -iioi ft^OOOOOPPO' opoftoe^p^oo $88S8$68SSS =1 ^ N •9 81 • I& o ^ m ^ K«M * to o « N * « *» 6 o ^ ^ o o ft e ^ K^ 1^ o o « • ' 09idft«^ ' 8 S eS ^ %S ^ ** 8 ^ *^ ^ '^ S *^ ^ *^ '^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ SSSSS8 tlSSS*^ 2 I & fits ♦^ ' s & s » K i« * « « ss&s€^tfefie^i:s| : sssSI ssskstsse ««« ^^db,«tpHlHp4M tH ^ |i^ iH «»^ « « f-l ^ f^ 1 sftfiC:S(aes& a t c t 0* ■ • • • • IS Jill « ^^ » ^p • • • • 0^K • ^B « • • t 2 • «} • Q • . • ■ Jm • cf9 • • • • ^j • ^v^ • • • 1:1;; |t irri- • * • ■ • • t iNft I 111- ^ I O pq A« 0 ' d S, '<'i'*<^^^'i^i:iiiii:it!ismMi!^t6Miii^Ui:ii^Ui 9 ^UmUUi CHAPTER X. PHOTOGRAPHY. By Captain Chapman. Whkn the Mission was first formed^ it was proposed to engage a qualified Native Photo- grapher ; as, however, great difficulty was experienced in securing the services of a competent man, the work of photography fell upon the officers of the Mission. Captain Trotter and Captain Chapman provided themselves, through Messrs. Lyell and Co., with 7i x4i inch cameras and with chemicals, &c., for the preparation of some 400 plates. Messrs. Bourne and Shepherd, Photographers, Simla, were early consulted, and the ordi- nary wet process was adopted ; at the same time a certain number of dry plates were ordered from home from the Liverpool Dry Plate Company. Subsequently, two sets of Professor Piazzi Smith's apparatus for taking small photographs for enlargement were ordered. Mr. Shepherd, of the Firm previously mentioned, was good enough to devote a good deal of time during May and June 1873 to Captain Chapman's instruction. Both the officers, who have been engaged in photographing, desire prominently to acknowledge the assistance they have received from this gentleman, whose advice they have followed throughout. It was from the first decided to give up all thought of printing during the travels of the Mission, and the negatives have been Regularly forwarded to Messrs. Shepherd and Bourne, by whom the photographs have been printed. Packing. — ^The entire equipment was carried throughout the expedition on mules, the boxes containing chemicals, &c., being so regulated as to approximate one maund in weight : with one set, the leather trunks from the Cawnpoor Factory were provided with special fittings, and with the other, wooden boxes covered with felt and fitted with wicker cases were employed. The experience gained during the journey leads to the conclusion that boxen arranged to weigh half a maund each (40 lbs.) would have been more useful and less liable to injury than those of the larger size ; four such boxes would constitute a mule load. Each separate bottle had a covering of its own, and was carefully stowed with cotton wool in its own partition. The greater number of the photographs obtained have been taken with Dalmayer's wide-angle lens, the slide of the 7i" x 4^'' camera having warped so much under the weight of stereoscopic lenses, which were fdso provided, as to render them useless. The total number of negatives obtained is 110. The ordinary wet process, with proto-sulphate of iron developer and a pushing solution of PJf o-gr^^ ^d ^^ employed. Thomas^ collodion in half pints, and Mawson's collodion were both brought into use, the latter being chosen as tending to density in the negative. Triple erystalised and fused nitrate of silver was specially chosen. The greater number of subjects being figures, the dry plates furnished with the equip* ment were not made use of^ owing to the long exposure required with them, and as it was nearly always possible to employ the larger cameras, Professor Piaxzi Smith's apparatus was not brought into use. The possession of a certain amount of old proto-sulphate of iron which had become per- oxydized was found highly advantageous as assisting the rapid preparation of developing solution when required. The severity of the winter season and the difficulties attending photography on the line of march need to be appreciated ; but in favor of the equipment and the process employed, it may be recorded that some of the negatives were obtained when the thermometer showed many degrees of frost, and that the camera was constantly used after a long march. The prejudices which exist in all Mahomedan countries against the taking of likenesses were found to be very strongly in force on arrival, and it was only as confidence was estab* lished, and in consequence of the liberal policy of the Amir, that it became possible to secure the photographs which have been obtained. CHAPTER XI. Hemorandiim on the use of sheep carrying supplies across the Earakonun by Captain J. Biddulph. I LBFT Tankse on 18th September^ taking with me thirty sheep canying loads of grain and flour. Wishing merely to test their marching capabilities, I looked upon the supplies they carried as extra, and their loads remained intact till within four marches of Shahidoolla, when I was forced to commence using them. The Tartars usually make their sheep carry a load of SSIbs., and march seven or eight miles a day only, making frequent halts ; as, however, I expected to be marching hard at times, I put only, a load of 20956. on each sheep. Seyond this I took no care of them, and they simply took their chance. A great part of the route was over rough and stony ground, but only one sheep broke down, though many of them showed signs of footsoreness at times. The loads secured by breast and breach ropes ride well, sinking into the fleece, and not being liable to shift. On fair ground where they travelled with a broad front they marched at the rate of 1} mile an hour; a large number would no doubt travel slower, and much must depend on the breadth of the road. The greatest difficulty they had to contend with was crossing streams, and while march- ing in the Karakash Valley they were sometimes obliged to cross the river three or four times in a day. Not only were their loads liable to become damaged, but the weight of water hanging in their fleeces, and on several occasions freezing, greatiy impeded progress. On the days on which they had no grass, they had literally nothing to eat, as they refused grain, not being accustomed to it. One man was sufficient to manage the lot, and two men, I should say, could easily drive and manage an hundred. On arrival in camp they were unloaded, and turned out to shift for themselves till dark, when they were herded for the night. The &ct that a flock of sheep carrying 20B»s. loads should be able to march 380 miles in a month with only one casualty, through a country in which forage is always scanty, and at a very inclement season of the year, is remarkable. After the first march the elevation was never less than 11,000 feet, and the thermometer at night sank to 16^ and 16^ below zero. The sheep, however, apparently did not feel either cold or elevation. Future exploring parties on the Karakorum will, I feel certain, find a flock of sheep a most useful addition to their camp. Not only are they very easily looked after, but they can feed themselves as they go along, which ponies cannot do, and can pick up a subsistence on the scanty pasture grounds and among the rocks where horses would starve. Besides this, when their loads are disposed of, they can themselves be eaten. The accompanying table will show the particulars of the marches they made. I was accompanied the whole time by a Survey Pundit, who paced the distance each day. Tabie ihofoing marches taken by a flock of ihirtjf sheep carrying loads of 20ffis. MlBCH. Tankae to Tdrar-ka-talab Lukang Chagra Date. 1873. 18Ui September ... ISfth 21st If MiLBS. u 8 Rbillbkb. ( 493 ) Table thowiMg mareiet taken by ajloek, 8fe. — (Concluded.) Mabch. Date. Miles. ESMABKS. 1873. Rimdi 22nd 1 September ... 13 Cross Lnnknr La, 18,400 feet. Pamzal 23rd 13 Gogra 24tli 12i Shuminal Lnngpa . . . Camp near Niachu 26th 12 27th 14} ICo grass. Cross Changlnng La, 19,300 feet. „ on Lingzi Thang 2ath 16i No grass. Camp 29th 20i No grass. Sumnal 30th 21i Cross Eizzil Dawan, 17,600 feet ; did not arrive in Camp till dark. EizzilJilga 1st October ... | 11 Chung Tash 7th • 24 Grass very scarce ; did not amve till afler dark. Sumnal 9th 13 Camp 10th 10* Grass very scarce. ft ... ... 11th 15 No grass. ss ... ... 12th 16* No grass. One sheep broke down on march. Sorah 13th 5i Camp 14th 13 >» 15th 18 Supplies not begun to be used till this evening. »f • • • • • • 16th lOi Gulbasher 17th 18 Shahidoolla 18th 23 Total 330^ miles. The last eleven marches being down the valley of the Karakash. a97 CHAPTER XII. Monet, Weights, and Measuees op Kajshghab. Money. The denominations and values of the current coins are these — 2 piil or ful = 1 d&rchin or pysa. 25 ddrchin = 1 tanga = 4 annas Indian currency. 26 tanga = 1 til& = 6 rupees 12 annae. 30 iil4 = 1 y&mbd or kiirs = 172 rupees 8 annas. The pul is a thin copper disc with a square hole in the centre for stringing. It bears a Chinese inscription on each side^ and is the only copper coin current. Two of them go to a drdrchin and fifty to a tanga. The metal appears to be much alloyed with iron^ and is of Chinese mintage. The tanga is a small silver coin^ recently issued by the Amir^ in the name of the Sultan of Turkey, 'AbduF aziz Khan (on the obverse), as the coinage of the ''protected State of K^shghar'' (on the reverse). It is said to be of pure silver and worth about six' pence. The aid is a gold coin in the name of ' Abdul^ aziz, and bears the same legend as the tanga, simultaneously with which it was issued. Its market value varies between five and six ruppes. The yimb4 or Mrs is a silver ingot something the shape of a deep boat with projecting bow and stem. The upper surface is slightly hollowed, and stamped with a Chinese inscription. It is said to be pure silver, and to weigh fifty ser = 80,000 grains English. It is »« 99 Bread. — ^A charak of grain = 20 Bs. : this is sold for li tangas ; when baked, its pro- duct in bread realizes 2i tangas. About 8 charaks of grain represents a fair daily consumption in one baker's shop. ( 497 ) CONTENTS OF A DRUGGISTS SHOP. Local, India. Kaihmir, Elsewhere, ^leagnns. Emblica. Violets. Figs, dried. Almonds. Hareera. Maiden's hair fern. Baw tea. Litharge. Turmeric. Zirisk. Tea, China. Kantapa (root). Ginger. Belladonna. Mummy wax. Ayaldaroo. Black pepper. •» Colchicnni. Cardamoms. Gum Acacia. Cassia. Senna. Cinnamon. Bosa Canina. Astraeolus. Haleeub. Cape Gooseberry. Cucumber seed. doves. Com poppy. Bhubarb. Sebestin. Gall nuts. ^ Legume seed. Carroways. Water lilly. Liquorice. Fumitory. Henna. Hurmal. Ajwain. Ejibebs. Korpa. Bharnea. Indian manna. Turkmuk. Long pepper. Vetch. Goor. Earksin. Horse Chesnuts. Poplar bark.* Catechu. Dried plums. Glue. Poppy heads. Catgut. Emmery (Ehoten). %j Sulphate of copper. Antimony (Aksu). Alum (Aksu). Sesame. n Endiye. Fennel. In addition to the above exposed on the stalls the more valuable spices and medicines were carefully packed away inside the honse. Soap, — ^There are 65 dealers in soap. Soap is made of lime^ potash^ and mutton fat^ it costs 7 tangas the charak=li 3^^?= 15 to 16 lbs. 1 tanga = 50 puis. 850 puis = 26 lbs. of soap^ 22 to 23 puis to the pound. Candles. — There are 30 candlemakers. 1 charak of fat mixed with about 12 miskals of wax (6 puis) produces 120 candles of ordinary size, which are sold for from 2 to 4 dacheen, i.e.y 4 or 8 puis, or by weight per jing \\ tangas. Hides. — An ox hide uncured is purchased for from 12 to 15 tangas according to size : when cured it is sold at from 22 to 25 tangas. Ox hides are cured with quick lime and saltpetre and stained with rhubarb. The purchase of an uncured sheepskin averages one tanga and 12 puis: when cured it sells for 1 tanga and 25 puis. In addition to this, some portion of the wool from the skin remains with the currier this is used in the making up of ropes. Carpets. — Are made at a village called Khiwaz (about ISO houses) about 5 miles from Yarkand. They are inferior to Khoten carpets. A carpet, 8 yards by 4, costs 100 tangas (8 of these make a ]^ony load). A „ 6 ditto 3 „ 60 „ (weight 1 charak 2 jings). A „ 4 ditto 2 „ 60 A „ 2 ditto \i „ 25 n * (Togruoho) used as a ferment in making bread. a98 ( 498 ) Ehoten carpets are sold in the Yarkand market at the following rates : — A carpet, 8 yardfl by 4, costs 250 tangas. A ,, 4 ditto 2 „ 125 „ • A „ 3 ditto li „ 60 „ Dyers. — 280 shops^ SO of which are occupied solely with the dyeing of silk. Yellow dye. — From a seed name unknown. KAakee. — From the husk of pomegranate and impure carbonate of zinc. Red. — From Kirimiz (Cochineal) and lac from Bokhara. Purple. — From Kirimiz and indigo. Green. — Indigo^ alum^ and huldee. Black. — Carbonate of zinc and gall-nut and sulphate of iron. No. 1. — Andijani ... 2.— Ditto ... 3.— Ditto ... 4. — Ditto . . . 5. — Serai Su^t 6. — „ Sukhan 7. — .. Yarkand SERAIS YARKAND. No. it 15 rooms. 14 do. 21 do. 22 do. 28 do. (Kashmiri's.) 37 do. 27 do. n Si >f »» »> » 8. — Serai Khoten 9.— „ Nur Alii 10.— „ Kassim 11.— Oil Serai (Jeger) 12. — Serai Bajaori 13. — Hindoo Serai 14. — Serai Ghofan ... 34: rooms. ... 16 do. ... 14 do. ... 7 do. ... 21 do. ... 25 do. ... 20 do. The first four are chiefly occupied by Andijani merchants ; they are the most pretentious in appearance : the best have a large cellar beneath the central space of the court-yard they enclose^ the rooms for accommodation of the merchants being ranged all roimd. Taking No. 4 Serai as an example^ the hire of a room per mensem amounted to 5 tangas^ but the entire income on account of rooms and store-rooms comes to 4,000 tangas per annum. Here you may find pig-iron from Russia (Nijni) in large quantities. Madder from Andijan (average price SO tungas per charak). Cotton from Khoten and Yarkand bound for Kashghar and Andijan. Old iron. — Average price 8 jings for 2 tangas. Cotton. — 16 jings, or 1 charak, for 4 or 6 tangas. Grape juice — 16 jings, or 1 charak, for 8 tangas. Numdahs and carpets from Khoten are also among the goods in store. SERAIS KASHGHAR. 31 rooms (The Zakfltchi resides here.) 7. Zak Mullah Bai, No. 2 . .. 63 rooms (Very small rooms.) 30 do. (In the Chowk.) 8. Mahomed Tnsnf Bai . .. 28 do. 23 do. 9. YuBufBai .. 30 do. 31 do. 10. Khoda Yar Beg .. 40 do. 17 do. 11. iBmail Beg .. 22 do. 21 do. 1. Badahahi Kona 2. Badshahi Nawa 3. Serai Alum Akhun 4. Ahmed Akhnn 6. Ameen Akhnn Bai 6. Zak Mullah Bai, No. 1 . In the best of these serais 6 tangas per mensem is paid for the hire of a room ; in the second class serais the hire of a room is S tangas per mensem. The remaining serais are not occupied in any way by merchants and traders, but give shelter to people without a residence of their own ; camelmen, &c., &c. 1. Khoten 2. Kashghari 3. Sheik Beg 4. MnllahSaduk 5. Dhung Serai 50 roooiB. do. 60 do. do. do. SERAIS AKSU. 6. Khoona 7. Nar Kurgan Bai 8. Andijani 9. YarKandi ,.. Serai. , . . do. ... do. , . . do. do. There are three other serais within walls. ( 499 ) SERAIS OUTSIDE THE WAXLS AT AKSU. 13. Eesah Eor 14. Arjok 15. Abdullah Bai 16. Shah Mad Niaz 17. Lalu Sheik 18. Yands Bai 19. TudiBai 20. MiiBa Akhund 21. Mahomed Tej Bai 22. Ibrahim 23. Shamoh Akhnnd 24. Tdngani, Serai 1. The Custom House. 2. Charee Hakim t a • ... SeraL 3. iLirghiz Hakim • « • do. 4. Aid Darogah • • • do. 6. Mahomed Tokhta Bai. 6. Badshahi ... Serai. 7. Haji do. 8. Kush Najuk do. 9. Imam I[hwoja do. 10. Shukutiik do. 11. Abdullah Be^ Hikmut Baki do. 12. do. Serai, do. do. do. do. do. do. do do. do. do. do. There are altogether S8 sends outside the walls. Inside the walls there are 84 Musjids, and in the Yangi-Shahr of Aksu 64 Musjids. Outside the walls 500 shops : — 35 Copper-smiths, 33 Butchers, 22 Ash Khanas, 17 Bakers, &c., &c. Inside the walls : — 45 Copper-smiths, 45 Bakers, 34 Ash Paz, 50 Shoe-makers, &c., &c. PRINCIPAL MERCHANTS RESIDENT IN YARKAND AND AKSU. to ^ g Yarkand Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do Do ••# Name. ""Haii Dadkhwah Mohamad Buksh (4 gomashtas) Hazrat Abdul Rahmat Mohomad Jan Haii Nasr Khan ; this man goes to.. . .Mohamad Shah Mohamad Akh6nd AfzulMir Mohamad Jan Shroff (remains in the city) Saleh Bee Mini Kabuli Mir Afztil Khan Safr Ali (has Agents) Mohamad Umr Bhai MadaShah AbduUah Bhai Kari Akh6nd Bahadur Bashi (remains in dtj) Taluk J& (employs his son) Mir Abdullah TrdOesioith Ladak do. do. do. Calcutta . . . Ladak and Kashmir Ladak Umritsur ... Yarkand ... Ladak Calcutta ... Do. Ladak Do. and Umritsur Do. do. Do. do. Do. do. Yarkand ... Ladak Do. ProperUf. 80,000 Rs 60,000 60,000 60,000 30,000 80,000 8,000 20,000 30,000 15,000 15,000 10,000 10,000 10,000 8,000 8,000 5,000 5,000 5,000 5,000 Aksu Name, Shumsh Tar Akh6nd IJrade with Do Ahmed Shah Bhai Do. Jait Dar6ga Do Kassun Bhai, Andijani Property. ISSdA^ j 600 Y«nbooB=80.000 Rb. TAlmati j tS^' Z 5^ ^^ Yamboo8=64,000 „ ( Ormutsi iAlmad Kashghar ... Turfan Ormutsi Kokand Alma Kashghar Turfan Ormutsi ...^ 500 Yamboos=80,000 utsi ... ; ind ... I kti ... I ghar ... VI, 000 Yamboos=l,60,000 ( 600 ) CARRIAGE AVAILABLE IN 1874. IN YARKAND. ZUt of men (Keraia KusX) possessing horses, 8fc., Aired out for trade purposes in Yarkand, Sfc. Yarkand ... ToksdnBhai... ... 20 hones. Yarkand ... Nasr Mir ... 20 hones, 10 camels. Ditto ... Jam Sh^d ... 30 do. Ditto ... Ashur Mir ... .. 30 horses. Ditto ...GulMudid ... ... 30 do. Ditto ... Mohamad Tokhta .. 20 do. Ditto ... Nazar Bhai Badakshi ... 25 do. Ditto ... Miiza 8a1eh Bhai ... 60 do. Ditto ... Sadi Bhai ... 16 do. Ditto ... MadaShah... .. 60 do. Ditto ... Nazr ... 16 do. Ditto ... E[adir Buksh .. 20 do. Ditto ... Saliin ... 20 do. Ditto ... Talak Jin ... .. 20 do. Ditto ... Nauroz ... 16 do. Kogiar ... BaghBhai ... ... 30 do. Ditto . . . Chiring Beg Bhai ... H%]i Dadkhwah ... 20 do. Ditto ... Mir MnlLih... .. 40 do. Ditto ... 40 do. Sanju . . . Mohamad Beg .. 30 do. If the exigencies of the trade require it^ this number would probably be doubled^ the Keraia Kush obtaining additions without difficulty from the local market. In the month of April these horses are put on gpreen food^ and they are not available for transport till the end of May. Pony carriage in Kashghar is practically unlimited^ and some 2^000 camels could be engaged in Kashghar without difficulty. MERCHANTS RESIDENT IN KASHGHAR, Ac. Mahomed Yusuf Bai, Khokandi, — Has property valued at 3^000 yamboos (Rupees 4^80^000). He has Agents in Almati^ Aksu^ Kuchar^ Oorumchee^ Yarkand^ Bokhara^ and Khokand. He is the owner of the principal Serai^ which is called after his name. Shah Nuzzur Bai, of Margilan. — Has property valued at 2^000 yamboos. He has Agents. In January 1874 despatched a consignment of 200 camel-loads to Almati. Namam Bai, of Margilan. — Tash Del&l. Mohamad Khan, of Margilan, — He has Agents in Yarkand^ Khoten^ Aksu^ and Karashahr. Ismail Bai (Pukhta), Kashgaree. — He has Agents in Almati and Andijan. • Ibrahim Bai (Nakum). — Has property valued at 1^000 yamboos. Corresponds and trades with Almati. Abool Russool Khwoja Akhoonzada, Kashgaree, — With property valued at 1^600 yamboos. Trades with Almati^ Aksu^ and Khoten. He does business through his &mily connection. Akhoon Bai, Kashgaree. — Property valued at 2,000 yamboos. Has two Agents, one in Kashghar, and one in Almati. Hajee Pulto fArghJ.-^VTOfeTty about 40 yamboos. Mirza Mulla, Kashgaree. — ^With property 160 yamboos. This man is specially occupied in trade with the Kirghiz. Oulad Bai, Kashgaree. — Property 1,500 tillahs. Trades with Almati. Mirza Shareef, of Oura-tippa. — Property 800 yamboos. Trades with Andijan. Mahomed Sadik, of Oura-tippa. — Property 1,000 yamboos. Trades with Andijan. Hajee Ismail, Kashgaree, — This man is a money changer near the cloth market. II. KASHGHAE ON MARKET DAY. 9tA January 1874. The length of the main street from the south gate to the north, along which the principal shops are built, is 1,475 paces double (Kurrii) approximately 2,500 yards : about half-way is a central Chowk where are two important serais and a large open space in which there is a day market. From the Yangi Hissar (Kiim) gate as far as the Aksu Serai there are permanent shops as under ; — 114 Goth sellers. 12 Silk (skein) sellers. 9 Numdaho and Saddle cloth sellers. 92 Spices and general stores, soap, candles, <&c. 61 Butchers. 24 Saddlers and leather sellers. 37 Bakers. 9 Cleaners of steel articles. 19 Dyers. 28 Workers in brass, copper, and iron. 13 Cutlers. 28 Farriers. 16 Silver-smiths. 61 Dealers in flour and grain. 24 Fruiterers. 24 Boot-makers. 2 Barbers. 200 There are 13 serais for merchants and travellers outside the city gate. On the south side there are 74 shops of various kinds ; outside the north gate are 149 shops of different ^inds. JVom the west gate to the Urda of the Dadkhwah 251 shops. In addition there are about 100 shops scattered throughout the city. On market day commencing from outside the south gate, the business of the day was somewhat as under : — 250 stalls for selling thread, occupied by women, each woman having about lib. of thread to dispose of ; the whole being sold, estimated total value realized 375 tangas. 150 women selling cotton, all disposed of and estimated at 337 tangas. 100 sellers of pigeons, each having about four pigeons, of which about one-half were sold, value 24 tangas; price of a pigeon 6 puis. • 200 sellers of fowls, selling about 400 fowls in all 200 tangas; price of a fowl 25 puis. 200 oxen were offered for sale, of which about 90 were sold, value 1,000 tangas. Value of a cow or heifer about 50 to 80 tangas. Inside the Gate. — 200 donkey-loads of salt about an average of 1 tanga per load = tangas. 300 stalls selling flour and grain in small quantities ; total sale 2,400 tangas. Hemp seed brought on camels, 300 tangas : this was selling at 80 puis the charak. 215 fruit and vegetable sellers, total sale estimated at 860 tangas. 70 sellers of numdahs. Total sale of numdahs varying from 3 to 6 tangas each = 1,400 tangas. 30 stalls for selling country cloth, about 150 pieces exposed, all sold, 300 tangas. 40 sellers of ready made chogas ; sale at an average of 30 tangas each, both of silk and cotton = 3,000 tangas. 30 sellers of old cloths and pieces for patch work. 50 sellers of cotton seed for feeding cattle (Pewd) ; cotton refuse after oil has been extracted (Kull) used as fodder. Sale 300 tangas. 120 hide sellers (cured) chiefly ox hides. Sale 3,000 tangas. 35 men employed in pegging and heeling boots, who realized 170 tangas. 60 women (purrf wallahs) selling bits of silk and ornaments, sale 350 tangas. 50 sellers of country cloths apart, 500 tangas. 70 carpenters and dealers in wooden articles, boxes, spoons, door-frames, &c., 280 tangas. 200 boot-sellers, about 4,000 pairs of boots exposed and one-fourth sold = 20,000 tangas. 200 hawkers of cloths and chintzes, 8,000 tangas. a99 ( 502 ) 30 miscellaneous stalls^ 240 tangas. 200 sellers of caps^ value to 30^000 tangas exposed^ and one-half sold =15^000 tangas. 10 women selling glue^ 40 tangas. 2^000 loads of firewood, and gras^ for roofings all sold at an average of 2 tangas=4,000 tangas. » 60 soap-sellers, 546 tangas. 50 uncured skin sellers, selling at an average of 2 tangas each = 1,000 tangas. 200 hawkers of bread and pies^ 400 tangas. Live-stock. 18 camels exposed for sale at 300 tangas to 500 tangas, none sold. 500 ponies for sale, ranging from 100 tangas to 400 tangas only, about 16 were sold = 2,400 tangas. 200 donkeys averaging 30 tangas each, 12 sold = 360 tangas. 875 sheep and goats offered for sale at an average : — Sh^p. 26 tangaaj ^,0.000 tangas. The butchers killed and exposed for sale (at 16 tangas per sheep) 200 sheep =3,200 tangas. 20 oxen at an average of 50 tangas= 1,000 tangas. 10 horses, 500 tangas. ' The smaller proportion of meat sold in the city, in comparison with that in the country markets, is due to the fact that the A^sh shops are always open, and that there is little store kept at home. Intermediate hawkers selling old cloths, saddles, and every description of property on account of any one requiring cash^ at least 800 men and women circulating and doing this business =2^000 tangas. This represents an average day's sale and purchase, in addition to the trade done by the permanent shops at 101,746 tangas, that is, something over Rupees 20,000. The larger purchases of country cloths which have been brought from the district markets must be added to this : these transactions are however carried on in the different serais^ where the merchants trading with Almati are resident. A careful estimate of the number of persons circulating in the city on market day gives as under : — Outside the southern gate marked for cotton, poultry ... From the gate towards the Aksu Send 463 double paces, 80 souls in every 10 paces In the Chowk in central market From the Chowk to the Dadkhwah's Urda, 141 paces (double) In the open space in front of the Dadkhwah's Urda From this pomt to junction with 2nd bazaar, 300 double paces From this to the western gate, 613 douhle paces, at 60 men in each 10 paces Outside this gate From this down to the bridge over Kizzil ... At the horse market If olXWV 1} ... ... s.a ••• a.. Separately at the thread stalls ... From the Chowk to the Aksu Serai, 140 double paces, at 26 men per 10 paces . . . From the Serai along a straight gully, 172 double paces, at 30 men per 10 paces... From this to boot bazaar, 140 paces, in every 10 paces, 200 souls (a dance crowd) Eastwards a gully, 146 double paces, at the same estimate From this point to the junction with the western gate, 243 double paces, in each 10 double paces, 160 souls ... This gives a total of 27,520 souls in circulation : it is further calculated one-fourth part of this number are women, and that one-third of the whole do not reside in the city which contri- butes from its population but two-thirds to the crowd on the market day. 2,600 souls. 600 do. 3,630 do. 1,000 do. 1,120 do. 1,000 do. 2,400 do. 2,610 do. 600 do. 1,000 do. 600 do. 40O do. 200 do. 360 do. 610 do. 2,800 do. 2,900 do. 3,700 do. ( 503 ) Market begins at 8 o'clock and remains in full swing till mid-day^ from which time till sun-down the numbers decrease. The numbers given represent the crowd as it would actually be during the most busy time^ but there is a constant influx and efflux from the city^ so that comers and goers would bring the number up to something over 30^000. The trade represented is a purely local one^ and has nothing to do with the exchanges and transfers of merchandise in the larger sense. Appendix III. DISTRICT MARKETS, 20th JANUARY 1874. Tar A Sing's Rbpoet. I started on the 1st January to visit the bazaars in the Kashghar circuit. I halted, on the night of the Ist, at the village of Yanduma about 10 mile8« distant from Yangi-Shahr ; this is a village of some 60 houses ; as far as this point I had travelled on the Aksu road. 2nd January. I reached " Shumba Bazar'' about 20 miles from Yanduma ; the name of the village where this bazaar is held is Jewatchi ; there are about 80 houses in this village, which is in the district of Kizzil-ui ; there are two serais here for travellers. In the Kizzil-ui district there are altogether about 790 houses. 3rd January. There was a bazaar held at Jewatchi : stalls were temporarily occupied as follows : — 30 Bakers. 4 Iron-smiths. 30 Agents for bujing cotton. 16 Sheep butchers. 2 Beef ditto. 10 Sellers of hats. 10 Ditto of boots. 6 Carpenters. 30 Cntleiy, &c., spices. 20 Sellers of fruit, &c. 10 Purchasers of country cloth. 5 Basket sellers. 6 Tinkers. In addition many hawkers of silk^ cotton^ thready &c. There are only ten permanent shops in this place^ and on the evening of the bazaar-day the whole of the stalls are vacated. About 6^000 men assembled on bazaar-day. Men collect from Kashghar^ Faizabad^ Artush^ Yangi Hissar^ and a few men from Yarkand. Sale during one bazaar-day. * Cotton cloth, of local manufacture, 40,000 thans, average price 2 tungas * Cotton, 60 maunds, at 8 annas per charak . . . Miscellaneous goods, silk, tea, &c. Numdahs t Grain Sheep (100 sheep) ... Oxen (6) Fruit Small articles, not included Tangos. 80,000 2,000 1,200 225 3,000 1,400 300 400 200 Eupees 17,745 = 88,725 The above represents an average day's business on bazaar days at Shumba Bazaar. TAe revenue of theKizzilr4i di'Strtctiass follows: — One-tent A of the produce of grain of all kinds = 38^000 charaks. With every 30 charaks of grain the Hakim will claim one donkey load of straw^ or an equivalent amounting to 1 tanga 36 puis; this represents 12^664 loads^ or 21,785 tangas 26 puis. * Purchased for conveyance to Kashghar and Yarkand. t Of the gnrain sold the rice had come from Aksu and Yarkand districts ; it was selling at 3 tangas a charak. MukJci from Yarkand district, 1 tanga 10 puis per charak. Wheat from Yarkand district, 1 tanga 30 puis per charak. ( 505 ) Receipts on account of Cotton, 8fc. From each tanab (60 paces square representing about 5 beegabs) 7 tangas 30 puis. Tangas. Total revenue under this head ... ... ... ... ... 36,000 Melons, 7 tungas 10 phools on each tanah ... ... ... ... 12,500 Beda (fodder) 7 tungas 10 phools on each tanab ... ... ^ . . 10,000 Produce of gardens, 14 tungas 10 phools per tanab ... ... ... 13,000 In addition to the above^ the value of one-fifth levied on a small amount of tobacco grown^ and upon grass lands a small tax. The grain is collected in kind^ the remainder in cash* There is besides the tax on live-stock. The transfers of land by sale. The value of the land is often assessed according to the amount of seed that may be sown in it instead of by square measurement ; it is usually estimated that one tanab will require four charaks of seed (of wheat). If 70 charaks of seed are required for the sowing of a piece of land, it will be termed a puddum ; similarly a half puddum and quarter puddum of land, &c., will be spoken of. Goods of foreign- manufacture were not observed in the Shumba Bazaar, w^ith the exception of Russian chintzes. 4th January. I reached Ek-Shumba Bazaar, 10 miles from the last place : this is held at Atakchi in the Kanarik district. The village has about 200 houses, and there are 14 permanent shops. In the entire district of Kanarik there are 1,880 houses. On bazaar days stalls are open in Atakchi as follows : — 40 Purchasers of cotton cloths of local manu- facture. 50 Ditto of cotton. 65 Dealers in spices, Russian chintzes, &c., tea and miscellaneous stores. 20 Sellers of hats. 20 „ of boots. 4 „ of baskets. 12 Soad dealers. 20 Carpenters and dealers in wooden articles. 10 Iron-smiths. 40 Tobacco sellers. 30 Snuff dealers. , 40 Skein-pilk sellers. 10 Numdah sellers. 20 Ready made chogas. 50 Prepared leather. 4 Oil. 100 Provision shops, where bread and Aash are prepared. 40 Sheep butchers, 20 Beef butchers. A large number of hawkers of all kinds in addition. In one bazaar-day at this place as many as 500 sheep and 20 oxen are killed : the price of meat is 20 phools per jing for mutton; and 16 phools per jing for beef: the large ex- penditure of meat is accounted for by families purchasing their supply for an entire week durin<> this cold season. About 15,000 people assemble here on bazaar-days. One thousand donkey loads of grain are disposed of. The transactions on bazaar-days represent a trade equal to about double the amount of that done in the Shumba Bazaar. Do-Shumba Bazaar. This is held at Peinab, about 10 miles distant from Atakchi; this is a village of about 350 houses, and there are 25 permanent shops; it is in the Kanarik district. £k-Shumba and Do-Shumba Bazaars are under the Dadkhwah of Kanarik, Mir Maho- med (Kutchi.) alOO ( 506 ) On bazaar days there are staUs as follows :«- 85 Aush ahope and bakers (restauraniA). 50 Spices, minerals, -cloths, and tea. 30 Sellers of boots. 15 Hat and cap sellers. 30 Furriers. 50 Sellers of grain and flour. 40 Purchasers of country cotton cloths. 50 Purcbasen of cotton. 15 Carpenters and sellers of wooden articles. 11 Sellers of iron articles and Farriers. 20 Basket sellers. 10 Sellers of numdahs. 40 Fruit and vegetables sellers. 40 Sheep butchers. 20 Beef ditto. About 800 sheep and 150 oxen were in the live-stock market. Five hundred sheep and 70 oxen were slaughtered on market day: price of meat 20 puis, for mutton^ and 16 puis for beef^ the jing. Meat is dearer in the district bazaar than in the city, where it sells, mutton at 16 puis, and beef at 12 puis, the jing. Comparing the sales in this bazaar with the preceding, they may be taken to amount to li times what is realized at £k-Shumba. The probable number of people present on bazaar day = 18,000, all from the Amir's territories. In the district of Kanarik there are 8 Dewan Begis (tax collectors) under the Dadkhwah. The revenue of the Eanarik disljict may be estimated as under : — From cotton at ... ... 7 tungas 10 phools the tanab ... 92,000 tangas. „ melons at ... ... 7 „ 10 ditto ditto ... 44,000 do. { „ eardens at ... ... 14 „ 10 ditto ditto ... 50,000 do. „ land under grass ... 7 „ 10 ditto ditto ... 40,000 do. „ grain -^^th = 1,40,000 charaks. A charak of grain is 16 jings. A charak as applied to other articles of consumption, 12^ jings, as well as cotton, oil« butter, Slc. A charak of silk is, howeyer, 4 jings. Stubble in proportion ; of one donkey load for every 3 charaks of grain, at 1 tanga and 36 puis the load, for which it is commuted 80,265 tangas. In Kashghar itself this is taken in kind to supply what is required for the large number of animals in the palace and with the troops. In addition the small tax on fallow ground ; and one-fifth of the produce of tobacco. Tax is also levied on live-stock as follows : — On every cow, per annum... ... ... ... ... 1 tunga 30 phoola. Ditto sheep or goat, per annum ... ... ... ... 12 do. Ditto mare, according to valuation, ^th of value during the year ; the valuation being fixed yearly. This tax on animals is collected in the summer. The taxes on crops, on the gathering in of the crops (in September or October). On land under cultivation, for fruit or gardens, about the same time or at the time the crop is half-grown. If money is wanted in the Treasury, the value of the standing com is estimated before harvest and commuted for cash payment. As a rule, the entire amount of grain is collected and stored ; troops and employes of all kinds being paid by orders on individual Dewan Begis, who may happen to have a laige supply in hand. There is a Court Mirza (accountant) with two assistants, who records the demands on the various districts, and keeps an account of the revenue returns. ( 507 ) DISTRICT TRADERS OF ANY IMPORTANCE. Shumba Bazaar. Mohamed Bai, Kaahgari, purchaser of cloth. Fozznl Bai, Bpice and general dealer. Akhum Khwoja. Azim Khwoja. (This man trades directly with the Kirghiz of the Alai, making purchase in the hazaar on their account.) Fuzzil Khwoja, Saudagur. Mohamed Maiur, purcnaser of cloth. Azim Bai, Baker. Khodar Yar Bai, Butcher. Ek-Shumba. Mohamad Yussdf Khoda Wurdi . . . Ahmed Do-Shtjmba. MuUa Jan Bai... Bulhul Bai Mohamad Khan Rozi Bai ToktaBai Rozai Jan Mulla Akhdn ... Haiee Yashiir ... Mullah Shumsudin Buhan Bai Bukhte Chung Khwoja Beg ... Mohamad Meer Bai, Kashghar Imam Allaiidin, Imam of &inarik ... / '" I Of Kashghar. ... Of Kanarik. Kaitabik. These men do not trade beyond Ejishghar, Yarkand, Khoten, and Aksu. They have no foreign trade. REPORT ON THE ARTUSH (LOWER) BAZAAR MADE IN FEBRUARY 1874. JEn route to Artush we passed Besh Kirrim^ a considerable group of hamlets in the Kasbghar district comprising 960 houses; this is one of the principal fruit-growing portions of the Kashgbar district. Besh Kirrim has a small bazaar of its own on Wednesdays. From Besh Kirrim the road^ which leads from the city to Lower Artush^ runs through a small gap to the Artush valley on the other side of a low sand ridge : in the gorge is a small shrine to Sut Bium^ the wet-nurse of Sultan Satuk Bogra Khan ; the first hamlet in the Artush valley termed Lungur is 8 miles from Besh Kirrim ; the road from this passes at 6 miles through the hamlet of Beh Ahmed at one mile from Artush proper. In the entire district of Artush are some 2^000 houses^ which are grouped in hamlets as follows : — 11. Istachi 12. Tat^r 13. Lungur 14. May^ 16. Kuiti Aylak 16. T6k 17. Begum 18. SultflLn 19. Wukwuk. 20. Eurkla. 1. AltunArtufih 300 houses. 2. TuktaYun .. 200 do. 3. Shoriik .. 300 do.. 4. Ogruk .. 150 do. 5. Suntuk 60 do. 6. Togul 7. Malid .. 100 do. 60 do. 8. TeiiSn 9. Beh Ahmed .. 100 do. .. 160 do. 10. Argtik .. 100 do. 160 houses. 100 do. 40 do. 70 do. 300 do. (a Friday bazaar.) 16 do. 20 do. 60 do. (K am Singi.) ( 508 ) In addition to this are 100 Kirghiz tents scattered throughout the Tiggur Mati and Sugun valleys, belonging to its different tribes and grouped permanently under the Artush Hakim. Trades in the Artush District, Village No. 10 Chung-oche-clinDg, having property This man trades with Almati. 3 Kos^h Akhiin . . . lOSuffiBai 10 Tureun Bai 1 Mahomed Tokhta 1 Mahomed Ali . . . 1 Mahomed Aluneen 8 H^jee Alatip 1 Ahdul Russiil 19 Ahdiil Russul 3 Abdul Behman 11 Mullah Nax 2 Abdul Ghigar Trade is only allowed to pass to Almati by the Chakmak route, but the Kirghiz of Tiggur Mati have a direct, though diflSicult, line of communication with Naryn by Karamati. Bazaar on Monday; on the 15th February the people did not collect till afternoon, and the shops did not do much business until after 1 or 2 o'clock ; about 4,000 people assembled, of whom 500 were women. Shops as follow : — These men trade direct with Almati and purchase^ cloth made up in the dis- trict. »» »» 99 «» >» »» )) >* it • > »» l> »» H *i >» »» 91 yt n r> i» »» — 1,000 kurs. 500 91 700 ») 300 xf 1,000 »» 60 >f 80 •I* 24 Purchasers of country cloth. 21 Sellers of cotton. 53 Cloth, spices, and miscellaneous stores. 20 Sellers of country manufactured cloths. 10 Ditto of soap. 9 Ditto of tobacco. 20 Ditto of oil. 10 Ditto of boots, &c. 10 Ditto of leather. 3 Men employed in pegging and heeling boots. 20 Basket sellers. 15 Sellers of matting. 10 Ditto of earthenware vessels. 9 Sellers of wooden articles. 11 Ditto of country matches. 14 Ditto of spices. 10 Ditto of silk articles. 32 Ditto of grain. 48 Ditto of fruit and vegetables. 16 Ditto of hats. 9 Workers in iron. 1 Goldsmith. 1 Dyer. 28 Sheep butchers. 2 Beef ditto. 22 Bakers and Ash -pa/. About 100 sheep and 60 cattle were exposed for sale. About 400 sellere of cotton (women) were present with thread, each woman having about 3 jings of thready the sale of each amounting to about 6 tangas. About 500 men presented themselves to sell country cloth. In comparison with other bazaars the sale of cotton was very small ; it would appear that scarcely any cotton is grown in the Artush district, but that it is brought from Kanarik. The price of cotton at Artush is from 9 to 9^ tangas the charak, in comparison with 8 to 84 at Kanarik. Profit in cotton thread is as follow : — Each woman purchases about 3 tangas worth of cotton and works it into thread, about 4 jings of cotton being obtained with this amount ; this produces 3 jings of thread. This sells at the rate of 2 tangas per jing, giving the woman a profit of 3 tangas during the week j in each case the 3 tangas thus obtained would seem to be invested in necessary purchases for the week, and the remaining 3 in cotton to be worked up before the next market day. The total sale of cotton in one day was about 63 maunds at 4»7\ tangas per JXloVLXiLL ••• •«• •■• •■> ••• •«• Purchase of country cloths amounted to 50 horse loads, each load 2 maunds 10 seers, amounting to at 400 tungas per load to ... . . . == 2,000 = 2,984 tangas. ( 509 ) Shops. 53 MucellaneouB, tea, &c., at 40 tangas each shop 20 Cloths (oonntry) sold at 20 tangas each shop 10 Soap at 10 per shop 9 Tobacco at 2 20 OU at 30 10 Boots, &c., at 25 10 Leather at 10 3 Heeling boots at 4 20 Basket sellers at 2 15 Matting sellers at 3 10 Earthenware sellers at 2 9 Carpenters at 6 11 Match sellers at 1 14 Spice „ at 5 10 Sflk „ at 4 32 Flour and grain sellers at 40 48 Fmit sellers at 5 16 Hat sellers at 20 9 Smiths at 5 60 Sheep were sold at 21 4 Oxen „ at 50 Each Ash-paz realised at the rate of 30 tangas Sale of cotton thread Transactions on market day and profits on labor in bazaars amounting to cbl^Wlv ••• ■•• ••• •»• ••• •■■ »». 99 » » » 91 f> 99 » >» )» » n >» » »f >» » . — 2,120 tangas. . = 400 . = 100 . = 18 . = 600 . = 260 . = 100 . = 12 . = 40 . = 45 . = 20 . = 54 . = 11 . = 70 . = 40 . = 2,120 . = 240 . = 320 . = 45 . = 1,260 . = 200 , = 360 . = 2,400 »f 34,100 >» The sales in this bazaar in comparison with those of other places are small; it may thus fairly be urged that the population of the district is comparatiyely a small one. When the crops of the district are half ready, the revenue of the district is estimated by an officer appointed by the Amir, in company with the Hakim, under whom there are 20 Dewan Begies, or tax collectors. The proportion of the revenue at the disposal of the Hakim is the free gift of the King. The revenue is collected in accordance with the estimate, unless special grounds are advanced for remission. The revenue of the Artush district may be taken as imder, paid in cash : — Bevenue on gardens, cotton, fodder, and melons ... ... 1,20,000 tangas. Ditto in grain, 93,000 charaks of grain, being the 10th part of the produce, valaed at an average of 2 tnngas per charak ... ... = 1,86,000 On each 3 loads of grain, 1 load of straw, giving 31,000 loads of straw, valued at 2 tangas ... ... ... ... ^ 62,000 The tax on live-stock in addition. Tobacco is not grown in this district. 3,68,000 tangas. 99 >I Sujjee is made at Eulti Aylak, where a tax is levied on each house where it is prepared of 25 tangas annually. Land of the 1st class, in which one charak of sped can be sown, realizes ... ... 100 OXvL yy «•• •*• »■• ••■ ••• »•• wv From the Ist description, a crop yielding 14 charaks will be realized ; ditto 7 ditto ; and 4 ditto. From 2nd ditto, From 3rd ditto, ditto Transfers of land can only be made before the Eazee, 2 tangas per cent, being paid on the stamp. ftl Appendix IV. SERICULTURE. There are two breeds of silk-worms known in Eastern Tnrkestan^ one producing a white and the other a yellow silk : these appear to me to be the Bombyx Mori (Lin) and Bom- byx Testor (Hutton)^ which are referred to in the Appendix of Mr. Geogh^han's report on sericulture in Bengal. There is but one mulberry tree which grows to a considerable height and from which the leaves are gathered three times : this is^ so far as I could ascertain^ the Morus Serratta of Dr. Roxborough. The tree apparently receives but little attention ; it is grown along the side of the road and in small private holdings : it is pruned largely however^ and cuttings are made from it in the early spring before the leaves push. These trees produce leaves for several years as food for the silk-worms. The worms are annuals. The eggs are hatched between the ISth April and the 1st May : previous to hatching they are carried upon the persons of men and women^ in the kummurbund of the men^ or in the arms-pits of the women^ being hatched between the 5th and 7th day by means of the heat thus afforded. The culture of the worms^ silk-reelings weaving, and dyeing, are all carried on in the house. Whilst the worms are being tended, they are usually confided to one of the elder women of the family, and are kept apart in a room set aside for the purpose, only one individual being allowed to visit them. A pregnant woman or a girl in her courses is on no account allowed to approach them, and during the time that the eggs are being carried about the person previous to hatching, husband and wife keep apart. The greatest cleanliness is demanded from the different members of the family during the period of education ; tobacco, snuff, onions, and garlic are strictly prohibited. During the first 10 days of feeding, the leaves are chopped into small pieces when given as food; on the 10th day the first stupor comes on, and they leave off eating for 3 days; after this period the leaves are given whole, and the worms eat for another 10 days, when their second stupor occurs. It is after the Srd period and near the 40th day that they begin spinning. During no period of their existence is any stint placed upon their feeding, but the leaves are not too frequently renewed. Reeling is usually carried out during the month of July : the process is exceedingly primitive, and there is great want of uniformity in the thread, owing to no attempt being made at selection in bringing the cocoons together, or in regulating the number of threads brought at one time to the reel. The work is usually done by women and children, either in the house or in the court-yard, which is a part of the humblest residences in the country. The cocoons are placed in a large iron vessel which is filled with water : this rests on a tripod, and a fire is placed underneath it; when the temperature of the water is such as barely to allow of the fingers being dipped in it, the silk from a number of cocoons, floating on the surface of the water, is drawn together through a small iron eye which is placed im- mediately in front of the reel, from which the sUk runs to a roller upon which it is wound by means of a fly-wheel. The whole apparatus for reeling is of rough construction. Previous to reeling, a prayer is offered up to the prophet Job, the patron Saint of all silk- worms, which are supposed to have had their origin in his suffering body. I have elsewhere alluded to the introduction of silk-worms and mulberry trees having been originally made from China. The management of the worms, &c., seems to be very similar to that adopted in China. ' ( 511 ) Great care is taken in selecting cocoons for breeding; white cocoons are kept separate from yellow ones^ and with each description the best are chosen. Male and female cocoons are put together in small cloth bags which are hung on pegs round the room ; when the moths are laying their eggs, great care is taken not to disturb them. During the winter the eggs are usually placed in an old sheep-skin hat, and are depo- sited in a box in a fairly warm room, where there is no fear of their being frozen. CHAPTER XIII. The Galendab. ThiM is the same u ihe Muhanmuidan Almanac, the months and year being lunar, bat for agricultunl operations the solar months, or zodiacal signs, are used. The names of the lonar months and their corresponding Arabic ones are these — 'Ashiir Ay = Muharram. Safar Ay = Safar. Safar Coshini Ay =:: BabCulawwal. Jam&di-nl-awwal = Rab(-'ath-th4ni. Jam4d£-nl-&khir = Jam&di-nl-awwal. Tal4sh Ay ^ Jam&di-nth-th&ni. Da4 Ay = Bajab. Bar4t Ay = Shal>4n. Boza Ay = Bamazin. Hit (Id) Ay = Shawil. Ar4 Ay = Zi Ca'da. Hit Cdrb4n Ay =r Zi Hijja. The Torki cyde of yean is also lunar, and eyery thirtieth year a month is intercalated as in the Arabis calendar. The names of the years are these — Sichc4n yil = Mouse year. 'Uy yil = Ox year. Yolbirs yil = Tiger year. Taoshc&n yil = Hare year. Balic yil = Fish year. Yal4n yil =: Serpent year. 'At yil ^ Horse year. Cdy yil = Sheep year. Mymdn yil = Monkey year. Toc4khii yil = Fowl year. It yil = Dog year. Tonguz yfl = Hog year. The agricultural months are the following, beginning with the Temal equinox : — Duluw = February — March. Hdt = March — ^April. Hamal = April — May. Thaur = May — June. Jauza = June— July. Sartlun = August-- September. Asad = September — October. Sumbul ^ October — ^November. Mlzin = November — December. Acrab = December — January. Caush = January — February. Jndi = February — March. (Sd.) H. W. BsLLSW. CHAPTER Sjscokd of Meteorological observations on the march from Leh in LadAkH to KiSHGHAR. 1873. M. 9 04 D. 26 26 27 10 Si & 28 29 30 2 H. 5 10 12 16 20 5 10 12 16 20 6 10 12 14 16 18 21 6 10 12 16 20 6 U 16 18 20 6 16 18 21 6 14 16 18 21 6 12 14 16 18 21 6 12 14 16 18 21 6 14 Thsbmohx- TBB. i 68 68 68 61 69 70 68 .a 42 39 38 37 34 16 26 26*6 19-6 26*6 g 02 112 90 101 89 Htobo- HBTBB. P 44 66 69 64 67 43 66 62 69 61 41 62 66 60 61 63 61 38 • • • 67 68 • • # 34 ft • • 36 29 26 24 64 41 36 26 66 63 44 42 30 66 66 47 39*6 39 30 63 64 62 43 41 27 44 pS 38 46 49 62 46 38 47 61 49 44 37 44 46 49 49 44 43 36 • • • 47 46 • • • 30 • • • 31 29 22 22 • • ■ 30 31 26 49 49 38 37 29 47 46 40 36 36 29 49 49 41 37 36 27 40 1 20-70 20-70 20-74 20-83 20-80 2070 .20-70 20-79 20-86 20-81 20-76 20-77 20-81 20-87 20-90 20-90 20-88 20-78 20-78 20-86 20-77 18-80 18-94 18-96 18-97 18-90 19-37 19-42 18-68 20-38 20-36 20-36 20-36 20-33 20-60 20*62 20-49 20-62 20-62 20*46 20*61 20-66 20-62 20-69 20-66 20-62 20*49 I Cu. Cu. St. 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 4 8 Cu. 6 a. 6 a. St. St. 2 4 8 St. 10 St. 10 St. 10 Cu. 2 0 . • « 0 St.'** 8 St 10 St. 2 0 St. St. NL Cu. Cu. St St St St St Ni. NL 8 10 10 6 8 10 10 8 10 10 10 8 0 0 Cu. Cu. Cu. NL NL St C.S. 4 8 8 10 10 8 9 ^ , s .9 ^ 0 N.E. S. 0 W. 0 N.E. 0 S. 0 E. 0 S. 0 *S. 0 S.E. 0 S. 0 N.E. 0 N. 0 N. 0 N. 0 N.E. 0 0 0 0 0 N.E. 0 • • . 0 N. 0 S. 0 f « • s. • • • 0 • • • 0 s. 0 S.E. 0 0 0 S.E. 0 • • • 0 N. 0 0 0 W. s. 0 0 N.W. 0 N.W. 0 N.W. 0 N. 0 N.W. 0 N.W. 0 N.W. 0 S.R. 0 S.E. 0 N.W. 0 N.W. 0 N.W. 0 N.W. 0 N.W. 0 S.W, R. W. 0 w. 0 Locality. Leh Leh Leh Leh Leh Polu Polu. Khardoug . . . Khardong... Satti Satti. Tini Tint Tagar Tagar. Pan&mik ... S 16 8 Rbmabss. Camp pitched under trees in ttte Residency ^ garden. Instruments under awning of a tent verandah always. At foot of rise to Khar- dong Pass. Camp on open fields near village. Snow 4 inches. During clouds of dust Camp on open ground on Dank of the Shayok River. Nubra River. 12 Slight showers. Nubra River. ft2 ( 614 ) 1873. Thbbmomb- Htobo- TB£. MBTBB. '1 1 t • Locality. 1 BBMABn. M. D. H. a • .a • pq Pq a s C3 OQ ^ M s « S 10 4 16 52 • • ■ ft • • 48 38 20*46 C.S. 9 N.W. 0 f ' 18 • « • • • • ft ft • 41-6 39 20-41 Ci. 3 N. 0 21 • • ■ • • • • ft • 49 32 20-40 0 N. 0 « 5 6 ■ • ■ • • • ft • • 32*6 31-7 20-43 0 N. 0 Panimik ... ■ ft ft Halt. 8 • • • « • ■ • ■ ft 38 37 20-46 Co. 3 N. 0 10 t t ■ 28-6 ft ft ft 44-6 41-6 20-48 Cu. 6 0 0 12 • • • • ■ • ft ft ft 49-6 40-2 20-60 C.S. 9 N.W. 0 14 67 • • • ft ■ ft 47 38 20-46 C.S. 9 NW. 0 16 • « • • • • ft • • 46-7 37 20-46 C.S. 9 N.W. 0 18 • • • t « • ft • ft 43 34-7 20-42 St. 10 0 0 20 • • ■ • • • ft ft • 40 32 20-46 St. 8 0 0 6 6 • ■• 31 ft ■ ft 34 34 20-46 C.S. 6 N. 0 Pan&mik ... ft ft ft Nubra Biver. 16 ■ • • • • • • • • 48 38 19-83 C.S. 6 0 0 ChangluDg.. 12 18 66 ■ • • 86 36 29 19-84 0 0 0 21 • • ■ • • • ft ft ft 32 32 19-87 0 0 0 7 6 ■ • • 21 ft ft • 26 23-6 19-89 0 0. 0 Changlong. Tdtyfl4c ... 18 37 • • • ft ft • 23 18 17-38 0 N. 0 16 CrosB Car4wal Daw&n 21 • • t 12 ft ft • 21-6 20 17-39 0 N. 0 Glacier. Pass. 8 6 • • « 11 ft ft ft 11 11 17-40 0 N. 0 TutyttAc. 18 • « « • • t ft • ft 21 • ft • 16-84 0 N.W. 0 Saser 18 Croes Glacier Pass. 21 • • ■ • • • • ft ft 19 ft • ft 16-77 0 N.W. 0 Bnngsa. 9 6 » • • 6 • ft • 9 8-6 16-80 0 S.E. 0 Saser. 18 43 • • • ft ft • 26 21 16-76 0 S.E. 0 Etimd&n ... 10 Camp between two gla- 21 • • • 18-5 ■ ft • 21 19 16-76 0 0 0 ciers on Shayok river. 10 6 • • • 6 • ■ ■ 8 8 16-74 0 0 0 Edmd&n. ■r 9 ... « • ■ • ft • 9 9 16-76 0 s. 0 • 16 36 • ■ • ft ft ft 34 29 16-60 0 s.w. 0 Gyaptang... 10 On Shayok river head J5 21 • • • • • ■ • • ■ 11 11 16-60 0 s.w. 0 waters. :s" 11 6 • • • -2 ft ft ft 6 3-6 16-49 0 s.w. 0 Gyar>tang. D^uiatbeg... 6 16 • • ■ ... ft • ft 27 26 16-81 0 S.W. 0 16 High plateau: on a 18 29 • • • ft ft ft 16 16 16-77 0 0 0 stream. 21 ■ • • • ■ • • /• 12 11 16-76 0 0 0 12 6 ■ • • -3 ft • • 2 1 16-71 0 w. 0 Danlatbeg. 18 • • • • ■ ■ ■ ft ft 20 ■ ft • • ■ ft St. 10 0 0 Brangsa . . . 21 Cross Caraooram Fkss. 21 • • • t * • ft ft ft 17 ft • • 16-61 NL 10 0 s. Snow. 13 7 « • • -2 ft ft ■ 2 2 16-66 NL 10 0 s. Brangsa ... ft ft • Snow M till 11 AJc. 22 • • • 16 ft ft ft 17 16 16-80 St 10 S.E. 0 Act^h 26 14 6 • « • -9 • ft ft -2 -3 16-79 0 S.W. 0 Act4gh ... ... Halt 16 6 • • • -16 • • ft ■ • • • « • ft ft ft 0 S.W. 0 Actigh. 16 12 ■ ■ ■ • • • • ft ft 36 31 18-27 Cu. 8 0 0 Sugat 32 Camp on river. 14 ■ • • • • ■ • ft • 37 36 18-21 C.S. 9 0 0 16 • * • ■ • • « • ■ 34 34 18-22 C.S. 10 0 0 17 21 40 26 71 27 27 18-20 St. 10 0 0 Sugat. 18 19 • • • • • • • ft • 32 29 19-16 St .6 N.E. 0 Shahidulla... 6 Halt. Camp on river 21 • • ■ • • • • ft • 29 27 19-17 0 N.E. 0 near the Fort. 19 12 • • • ft • • • ft • 46 36 19-22 Cu. 2 N.E, 0 Shahidnlla. 14 ■ • • • • • ft ft ft 48 36 19*12 C.S. 6 N.E. 0 16 62 • ■ • ft ft ft 41 31 1912 C.S. 6 N.E. 0 18 • • • » • • 34 31 1910 St 10 N.E. 0 21 • • ■ 14 ft ft • 29 28 1911 0 N. 0 20 7 • • « • • • ft ft ft 16 16 19-16 0 0 0 Shahidnlla. 10 • ■ • ■ • • ft ft • 37 27 19-28 0 S.W. 0 12 • • • • ft • • • • 60 38 1921 0 S.W. 0 14 • • • • ■ « • ■ • 61 36 1916 a 2 s. 0 16 66 • • • 96 49 36 1911 0 N. 0 \ ■ 18 • • • • • • ft ft ft 36 31 19-11 0 N.E. 0 ( 615 ) 1873. Thbbmomb- TBB. M. D. 10 20 21 22 23 6 24 26 26 27 28 29 30 31 11 2 3 H. 21 7 12 16 18 21 8 10 12 16 18 21 7 10 12 16 18 21 21 7 18 21 7 16 18 22 7 16 17 19 21 8 18 22 7 17 19 21 7 9 12 16 21 9 12 16 18 21 7 22 7 16 18 21 7 16 cB d 70 61 60 38 43 48 44 11 66 -3 12 10 10 OQ 89 8 13 18 18 18 • • ■ 13 9-6 9-6 90 80 84 Htobo- MBTBB. 24 12 49 47 36 31 32 33 46 62 36 29 21 34 47 61 33 24 19 18 28 24 12 43 27 20 12 48 39 36 22 16 31 21 18 41 30 24 23 40 46 39 24 36 40 42 29 24 21 24 17 43 28 19 16 63 PQ 21 12 36 34 24 30 32 31 37 39 28 26 21 23 36 38 26 21 19 18 21 « • • « 10 10 36 • • • 36 22 32 32 22 21 34 33 33 26 21 20 • • • 16 32 24 18 14 42 19^ 1913 19-26 19-20 1918 19-18 19-26 19-27 19-18 1912 1913 1911 1916 19-24 19-19 1908 1906 1906 19-78 19-76 18-70 18-68 18-62 20-20 20-20 20-16 20-06 21-44 21-46 21-48 21-48 21-64 22-78 22-76 22-63 23-64 23-66 23-62 23-62 23-68 23-66 23-66 23-66 23-73 23*73 23-73 23-69 2370 23-76 24-13 24-16 24-26 24-16 2417 24-16 24-61 0 0 Ci. 1 Ci. 3 0 0 0 0 Ci. 1 CS. 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 a. 3 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Haze. Haze. 0 0 Haze. 9$ f» 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Haze. 0 0 0 Haze. I N.B. 0 N.E. N. N. K E. E. E. S.E. 0 N.E. S. s.w. S.E. S.E. N.W. N. 0 E.S.E 0 0 0 N.W. N.W. N.W. N. N. E. N.-E. 0 0 S.W. N.E. S.W. 0 0 0 E. 0 E. E. E. 0 0 0 0 W. 0 0 0 0 0 E. 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Locality. 1 a Shahidulla. • Shahidulla. • Shahidulla. Pilat4gh4cL 14 GadUxmun... 10 Ckr4oorain. Gechgha ... 16 Gechgha. Tarn 12 Tam. Eewaz 16 Eewaz. V S&njd 14 S&njd ... • •• S&^jd ... • t • 84ind. Coflht4c. 26 »» Oe-toghr^... 20 Ditto. Borya 12 Beilabks. Caric&sh river. In defile of the Sanju I>aw&n Pass. Sarighj&r river; camp in narrow valley cross the S&njl Pass. Sarighy4r river; camp in narrow valley. Ditto ditto Camp in open valley. Camp amongst farm- steads and trees. Halt. Open plain at foot of hills. Halt Open plain. Sandy hollow on plain country. Ditto ( 616 ) 1878. Thbemomx- Htoso- TBB. MBTSS. 1 1 1 • Localitj. M Rbmasks. M. D. H. • • g • QQ P • H 4 18 64 ■ • ft 78 86 27 24-60 St. 4 0 0 ... Total eclipee of moon r 21 • • • ft • • ft • ft 27 24 24-62 0 1 0 0 19 h. to 23 h. 6 6 • • • 14 ft ft ■ 20 19 24-68 0 E. 0 Boiya. 17 • • • • ft • ft ft ft 47 40 26-47 Ci. 6 0 0 Kargalik ... 22 Camp in garden in the 19 • « • « ■ • ft ft* 41 34 26-49 St. 8 0 0 town. 21 • • • ft ft ft ft ft ft 37 30 26-46 St. 5 0 0 6 7 • ■ • 29 ft ft ft 37 31 26-42 St. 9 0 0 Ditto * . • Halt. Hazy atmosphere. 10 • • • ft • • • ft • 44 34 26-46 a S.6 0 0 12 • • • • • ft ft ft ft 54 43 26-46 a S.8 0 0 16 68 ■ « • ft ft • 53 42 26-43 Ci. S.10 0 0 • • 19 • ■ • ft ft ft ft ft ft 4& 36 26-45 CLS.10 0 0 22 • • • • • ft • « ■ 38 29 26-46 0 w. 0 7 6 • • • 27 • • • 29 • ft ft 25-46 0 0 0 Ditto. 18 48 2« ft a ft 33 29 26-64 CL S.2 0 0 Poflg&m ... 26 Hazy air. 21 • • • ■ • ft ft ft ft 32 30 26-64 CL 2 0 0 8 6 • • « 20 • • ft 26 22 26-61 Ci. 2 0 0 Ditto. 16 63 • ft ft ft ft ft 53 42 26-77 0 0 0 T&rkand ... 16 Qnarters in a oonrtinthe 18 • • * ■ ft ft ft ft ft 46 43 25-78 0 0 0 Fort of Tangishahr. 9 9 • • • 26 ft ft ft 27 20 26-80 0 0 0 Ditto • • ft Hazy sky. 11 • •? ft ft • ft ft ft 41 33 26-86 0 0 0 13 • • • • ft • ■ ft ft 47 36 25-86 0 0 0 ft • ft Instmraents in an open 16 68 ft ft ft ... 4»| 39 25-86 0 0 0 court on a stand in 18 « • • • ft ft ft • ft 42 35 25-86 0 0 0 the shade of a widl. 21 « • • ■ • • ft ft « 36 33 25-85 0 0 0 and on its north side. 10 7 « • • 26 • « • 29 27 26-82 0 0 0 1 11 ■ • • ft ft ft ft ft • 40 36 26-86 0 0 0 14 ft • • ft • ■ ft ft ft 46 46 26-84 Ci. 4 0 0 T&rkand ... ft ft ft Hazy weather. 1*. ^ 17 47 • ft ft ft ft ft 41 34 26-80 Ci.S. 8 0 0 1 21 • • • ft ft ft ft ft a 33 30 26-80 St. 9 0 0 T&rkand. ^ 11 7 • • • 26 • ft ft 30 28*6 26-75 Ci. 3 0 0 Ditto. 10 • « • • • ft • ft • 41 41 25-78 Cu. 3 0 0 * 12 • • • ft • • ft ft • 46 46 26-76 Haze. 0 0 16 60 ft • • ft ft ft 46 46 26-76 H. 0 0 19 t « • • ft « ■ ft ft 38 38 25-76 0 0 0 21 • • • ft ft • • • ft 37 36 26-75 0 0 0 12 7 • « • 27 ft ft ft 33 26-75 a 2 0 0 Ditto. 10 • • • • • • ft ft • 48 25-79 CL 8 0 0 • 12 • « • • • « • •• 60 g 26-78 St. 6 0 0 16 62 • • • ft ft • 44 g 26-78 St. 6 0 0 19 • • • • • • • ft ft 36 i 26-76 Co. 4 0 0 21 • • • • • • • a • 34 Pm 25-76 0 0 0 13 7 • • ■ 2S ft ft « 29 29 25-76 0 0 0 Ditto. 11 • ■ ft • • • ft ft • 46 37 25-79 0 0 0 16 62 • • • » ft ft 48 39 26-77 Ci.S. 6 0 0 ' 20 ft ft ft • • • « « ■ 35 36 26-76 0 0 0 14 7 ft ft • 26-6 ft ft ft 31 28 25-77 Ci. 8 0 0 Ditto. 10 • • • ft ft « • • • 42 36 25-81 Ci. a 8 0 0 14 49 t • » ft ft • 47 39 26-78 |Ci. S.1C 0 0 17 • • • ft ft ft ft ■ • 41 36 25-77 iCi. S. 8 0 0 21 ft • ft ft ft ft • ■ ft 33 30 25-76 0 0 0 15 7 ft ■ ft 26*6 • • ft 30 28 25-78 Haze. 0 0 Ditto. 16 61 ■ ft ft • • • 61 42 26-84 H. 0 0 16 7 ft • ft 24-6 ft ft ft 28-6 26*6 25-90 0 0 0 Ditto. 11 ft • ft • • • ft ft ft 47 39 26-96 Haze. 0 0 kta 13 a • ft • • • ft ft ■ 49 40 26-94 H. 0 0 16 61 • • • ft ft ■ 60 40 26-93 H. 0 0 ( 517 ) 1873. M. D. 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 H. 21 8 12 16 20 7 14 19 7 12 16 21 a 12 17 20 7 11 14 16 18 21 7 11 14 16 18 20 7 10 12 15 18 21 7 10 12 14 16 18 21 7 12 16 21 7 12 16 21 7 11 14 20 17 21 7 Thsbmomb- TXB. .9 g 24 50-1 49 245 22 44 22 50 21 49 21-5 53 24 55 26 52 25 50 26 52 24 51 14 Htobo- MSTBS. m Q 35 28 43 41 37 31 48 37 27 44 49 32 28 48 45 35 28 41 49 46 38 33 27 43 50 49 43 36 29 44 51 55 42 38 31 39 48 52 48 43 38 29 46 45 36 31 45 49 35 30 45 50 35 37 29 18 32 126 37 34 33 29 39 32 25 37 40 31 26 40 36 33 26 35 41 39 33 30 26 34 41 41 35 30 28 36 42 44 35 32 28 33 39 42 40 36 32 27 37 37 31 29 36 41 31 28 38 44 32 29 26 17 25*92 25*83 25-83 25-80 25-78 25-82 25-85 25-85 25*85 25-88 25-88 25*87 25-87 25-90 25-87 25-87 25*86 25-92 25-90 25-88 25-81 25-84 25-78 25-82 25*78 26-77 26-76 2575 26*75 25*80 25*78 25*75 25*72 25*72 25*73 25-75 25-72 25*69 25-67 26-64 25-63 25-58 25*61 25*60 25-68 25-55 25*60 25-65 25*66 25-75 25*80 25-79 25*85 26-08 26-15 26-13 1 i » a s »f* ^ 'i 0 0 0 0 0 0 St. IQ 0 0 Ci.S10 0 0 0 0 0 St. 10 0 0 Ci. 3 0 0 St. 10 0 0 0 0 0 Ci. 4 0 0 Ci. S.8 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 St 3 0 0 0 0 0 SI T3 0 0 0 ^ 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Ci. 6 0 0 a. 4 0 0 0 0 0 Ci. 2 0 0 0 0 0 a. 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 St. 5 0 0 a. 3 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Ci. 3 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Ci. 1 0 0 Ci. 4 0 0 Ci. 5 0 0 0 0 0 Ci. 6 0 0 Cu. 4 0 0 0 0 • 0 0 0 0 Ci. 3 0 0 Ci. 3 0 0 Ci. 2 0 0 0 0 0 Cu. 4 N.W. 0 0 0 0 Hftze.' N.W. 0 Locality. Yarkand ... Ditto ... Ditto ... Ditto ... Ditto ... Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto ... Ditto Ditto ... Eokrab&t ... Ditto. 25 Bbhabes. Still, hazy weather. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. No haze. Sky clear and still. dear, fine weather. Ditto. Fine, clear weather. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. In rest house. bS ( S18 ) 1873. Thbsmomb- HTaBo- TBB. MBTBB. 1 1 1 • a Locality. • i Bbmabss. M. D. H. 9 A • pq • a ^ QQ P ^ H s ^ s • 29 18 « • • • • « 28 26 26-71 H. 0 0 ciziu 26 Hazy air. • 1 30 7 • • • 13 18 17 26-60 St. 10 0 0 Ditto ... • • • In i«st houae. ^1 17 • • • • a ■ 33 32 26-61 Ci. 3 0 0 TangiHiflsar 32 Camp in court and gar- V 19 • ■ ■ • • • • • • 30 27 26-63 Cu. 2 0 0 den on plain. 21 ■ « • • • # 26 24 26-68 Cn. 2 0 0 12 1 7 ■ • « 14-6 19 18 26-66 St 2 0 0 Ditto ... « • a Halt Hazy air. f" 10 • * « 34 32 26-66 Ci. 6 0 0 14 • ■ • 38 34 26-64 St. 9 0 0 17 44 30 30 26-63 St 4 0 0 21 • • « 24-6 24 26-63 0 0 0 2 7 • • ■ 14 26 26 26-70 CL 2 0 0 Ditto ... • ■ • StUl cloudy day. 12 ■ • • 40 34 26-61 St 4 0 0 16 49 37 31 26-67 St 9 0 0 20 ■ • • 28 26 25-68 Ci. 6 0 0 3 7 ■ • • 14 18 • • • 26-69 Ci. 3 0 0 Ditto 17 • • « 40 36 26-67 Ci. 6 0 0 Yapchang... 26 Hazy sky. 19 • • • 31 29 26-61 Ci. 1 0 0 21 • • • ■ « • 24 24 26-66 0 0 0 4 7 • • • i'i 17 16 26-65 Haze. S.W. 0 Ditto. 16 • • • 36 33 26-60 Ci. 2 0 0 K&shghar... 14 Quarters in a Residency 18 46 30 28 26-60 0 0 0 Court on plain near 20 » • • 27 26 26-62 0 0 0 the fort of Yangi- 6 7 • • • 16 19-6 19-5 26-62 Cu. 3 0 0 Ditto. shahr. 10 ■ * • 31 30 25-64 Cu. 6 0 0 12 • ■ « 46 42 26-66 Cu. 4 w. 0 • • ■ Instruments in an open 16 • • ■ 33 30 26-64 Cu. 4 S.W. 0 Court and on north 18 66 28 27 26-71 Ci. 3 0 0 side of a wall ; in the i 6 21 8 « • « • • • 13 24 32 23 33 26-76 26-71 0 Haze. 0 0 0 0 Ditto ... • • • open air. Still, hazy air. 13 63 64 48 41 26*74 0 0 0 « 19 • • • 28 32 25-80 0 0 0 7 8 • • • 13 38 32 25-84 0 0 0 Ditto ... • « ■ Ditto ditto. 12 • • • 42 42 26-78 0 0 0 16 68 42 38 26-83 0 0 0 20 • • • 32 29 26-87 0 0 0 8 7 • • a 13 20 20 26-93 0 0 0 Ditto ... • • • Ditto ditto. 12 ■ • * 46 46 25-90 0 0 0 16 68 44 40 26-90 St 2 0 0 19 ... 29 32 26-96 0 0 0 9 7 • • • 16 ?1 20 26-81 Cu. 7 0 0 Ditto ... • ■ • Still, cloudy sky . 14 67 44 40 26-66 Cu. 2 0 0 . 21 • • ■ 28 26 26-67 Cu. 4 0 0 10 7 • • a 17 22 21 26-63 Cu. 6 0 0 Ditto ... • • « Still, cloudcast sky. 13 • • ■ . . . 47 41 25-63 St 3 0 0 tf 16 66 36 30 25-67 St 10 0 0 19 • • • 31 28 25-63 St 10 0 0 . 11 8 • • • 13 22 • • • 26-76 St 2 0 0 Ditto ... • « ■ Still air. 12 ■ • • 46 42 2673 St 2 0 0 16 66 41 36 26-73 St 4 0 0 20 • « ■ 27 26 26-80 0 0 0 12 8 • ■ ■ 13 26 26 26-92 St 10 0 0 Ditto ... * • • Still, cloudcast sky. 12 • • • 37 33 26-86 St 10 0 0 >> 16 60 36 32 26-80 St 6 0 0 '*■ 20 . « • • • • 27 28 26-82 St 4 0 0 ( 619 ) 1873 Thbsmoms- Htobo- XV7# o • TEB. METBB. - • Locality. Bbmabks. M. D. H. * • • .2 1 • a ■ 14 3 1 1- 1 • a »f • • a • » • 13 8 11 . .. 15 25*86 Ci. 3 0 0 X&shghar ... still hazy atmosphere. 12 • • • • « • a .. 41 43 25-77 0 0 0 16 58 • • a • .. 45 39 25-75 CL 5 0 0 20 • • « a • a • .. 27 26 25-74 Cu. 6 0 0 14 7 • • • 11 . .. 20 19 25-80 St. 6 0 0 Ditto ... • • ■ Still cold air. 12 • • • a a a • .. 42 37 25-70 St. 8 0 0 • • • Cloudy sky. 16 54 • • • a .. 43 39 25-70 Ci. 4 0 0 20 • • • ■ a a • .. 26 25 25-74 0 0 0 15 7 • • « 12 . .. 18 17 25-73 Ci. 4 0 0 Ditto ... • a ■ Still hazy and cloudy day. 12 • a • • a • * .. 44 41 25-68 Ci. 4 0 0 16 53 a « a • .. 45 40 25-65 Ci. 2 0 0 • 20 • • • a a • a .. 27 25 25-70 Ci. 6 0 0 16 7 » 9 9 11 . .. 16 15 25-68 Ci. 5 0 0 Ditto ... ■ ■ ■ Ditto. 12 • • ■ • ■ • * .. ;46 42 25-51 St. 6 0 0 « a « Some sun at midday. 16 55 • a ■ • . 37 34 25-55 St. 4 0 0 20 • ■ ■ . .. 29 28 25-60 St 6 0 0 17 7 • ■ • 13 . .. 22 21 25-55 St. 10 0 0 Ditto ... a • • Dull cloudy day. 12 • • • a a a a . 31 30 25-50 St 10 0 0 • * a No sun. 16 39 • a • • . 33 31 25-48 St 10 0 0 20 • • ■ a * a a . 28 26 25-47 St 10 0 0 18 7 • • a 15 . . 22 21 26-50 0 0 0 Ditto ... • • • Clear bright sunny day. 12 ■ • • • a • a . 60 52 25-40 0 0 0 16 60 a a a a . 43 33 25-50 0 0 0 .. • a • Haze on hills. 20 • • • • • • a .. 35 28 25-58 0 0 0 19 7 • • • 8 . .. 17 16 25-75 Ci. 3 0 0 Ditto ... • a a Clear sunny day. Haze 12 • « • • • • a .. 41 39 25-75 0 0 0 on hills. • 1^ 16 46 • • ■ • .. 38 35 25-70 Ci. 4 0 0 ^ 20 ■ « • • a • ■ .. 22 21 25-75 0 0 0 i' 20 7 • • • 7 . .. 18 17 25-84 St 6 0 0 Ditto ... a a • Cloudy with some sun- 1 12 • • • ...• .. 32 28 25-84 as. 3 0 0 shine. 16 33 • « • • .. 32 30 25-80 Ci. 4 0 0 20 • • • • • ■ a .. 24 20 25-84 0 0 0 21 7 • • • 6 . .. 20 19 25-82 St. 7 0 0 Ditto ... • a a Still and cloudy. 12 • ■ • a • • * .. 31 29 25-75 St. 9 0 0 16 34 a • • * .. 30 29 25-73 Ci. 4 0 0 a a « Some sun at midday. 20 « • • « • • * .. 20 19 25-75 0 0 0 22 7 • • • 7 . .. 15 14 25-75 St 2 0 0 Ditto ... • • • Sunny day. 12 • • • • a a * .. 32 30 25-65 0 0 0 • t • Still, hazy air. 16 32 a a ■ a .. 32 31 25-73 St 3 0 0 20 • • « • • a a .. 22 20 25-60 0 0 0 23 7 a • • 8 . .. 16 15 25-50 St 10 0 0 Ditto ... • a « Dull, cloudy, and cold 12 • • • • • a a .. 29 28 25-40 St 10 0 0 day. 16 31 • ■ • a .. 27 26 25-33 St 10 0 0 20 • • • • a • ■ .. 26 24 25-35 St 4 0 0 24 7 • • ■ 8 . .. 29 28 25-80 St 8 0 0 Ditto ... a • a Gusty wind and dust 12 • • a a ■ • a . 44 35 25-50 St 6 0 0 clouds at 3 P.M. 16 32 a • • a .. 31 30 25-60 St 9 w. 0 20 a • • • a • a . 25 24 25-65 0 0 0 25 7 ■ • » 10 .. . 17 16 25-70 Cu. 4 0 0 Ditto ... • ■ a Fine weather. 12 • a • ft a • a 1 . 32 27 25-60 Cu. 6 E. 0 16 31 ■ • « at . 31 28 25-60 Cu. 8 E. 0 20 • • • 9 9m a « . 22 20 25-60 0 0 0 26 7 a a • 6 .. . 14 13 25-55 St 3 0 0 Ditto ... • • a Cloudy day ; little sun. 12 • « • •• • •* . 30 28 25-55 St 7 0 0 Still air. 16 35 • a • a a . 32 30 25-55 St 3 0 0 ^ B 20 a a • • • a a « . 25 23 25-64 0 0 0 ( 520 ) 1873. Thbkmohb- Hyobo- TEB. MBTBS. • 1 1 t • •a Locality. i RbMAB£8. M. D. H. i .s • g cq pq ■ a s ■ 14 P < s ^ ^ • • ■ f ■ 27 7 • • • 9 15 26'66 St. 2 0 0 Khasghar... Fine, sunny day. Still 12 • • • • • « 30 28 26-66 St. 3 0 0 air. 16 32 • • • 32 28 26-66 0 0 0 20 • • ■ • • • 22 20 25-60 0 0 0 28 7 • • • 7 14 14 26-73 Ci. 2 0 0 Ditto ... • • • Fine, sunny day. Sharp, 12 « • • • • • 30 27 26-76 a.s. 3 0 0 still air. 16 32 ■ • • 30 26 25-74 0 0 0 20 ■ • ■ • • • 18 16 26-76 0 0 0 29 7 ■ • ■ -1 16 13 26-75 St. 6 0 0 Ditto ... • • • Goudy sky. StiU air. -1- 12 • • ■ • • ■ 31 26 25-76 St. 8 0 0 I 16 31 • • a 29 a7 26 76 ^t. 10 0 0 s 20 • ■ • • « • 22 20 25-73 St. 5 0 0 ^ 30 7 • • • -3 10 9 25-85 St 3 0 0 Ditto ... • • • Sunny day. Still, frosty 12 • • ■ • • • 26 22 26'S2 Ci. 2 0 0 air. 16 30 • ■ • 23 21 26-80 0 0 0 20 • t • • • « 16 16 26-77 0 0 0 31 7 • » • -1 6 6 25-70 Ci. 4 0 0 Ditto ... • ■ • Frosty, fine day with 12 • • • • « « 26 23 25-62 St. 5 w. 0 light airs. 16 29 • • ■ 23 21 25-60 St. 3 S.E. 0 *^ s 20 • • ■ • « • 16 14 25-61 0 0 0 1874 L x^ t 1 7 • « • 2 9 8 25-60 St. 8 0 0 Ditto ... • • • Dull, cloudy, still air. 12 • • • 26 23 25-58 St. 10 0 0 16 29 23 22 25-60 St. 10 0 0 20 • m % 18 17 25-60 St. 10 0 0 2 7 • • • 9 16 16 26*60 St. 10 0 0 Ditto ... • • ■ doudcast sky. Still 12 • • • 26 24 26-60 St. 10 0 0 air. No sun. 16 29 24 22 25-69 St 10 0 0 20 ■ • • 20 19 25-60 St 10 0 0 3 7 • » ■ "6 14 13 26-70 St. 5 0 0 Ditto ... • • • Still, cloudy sky. Little 10 • « ■ 19 18 25-73 Ci. 4 0 0 sun. 12 ■ • ■ 27 26 25-70 Ci. 2 0 0 16 29 26 23 27-70 Ci. 4 0 0 20 • • • 16 16 26-72 0 0 0 4 7 • • • *7 16 16 26-74 Cu. 8 0 0 Ditto ... • • • Still, cloudy day. Little 3 0 10 • • • 16 18 26-75 Cu.S. 9 0 0 sun. 12 • • • 26 24 25-75 St 6 0 0 16 29 25 23 25-70 St. 8 0 0 s •^ 20 • « • 18 17 26-76 Cu. 8 0 0 5 7 • • • -2 6 6 25-78 St. 4 0 0 Ditto ... • • ■ Ditto ditto. 10 • • • 22 20 26-80 Cu. 6 0 0 12 • • • 27 26 25-70 St. 2 0 0 16 29 20 19 25-70 St 4 0 0 20 « fl • 16 14 2576 0 0 0 6 7 • • • -2 6 4 26-84 0 N. 0 JHtto ... « « ■ Clear, sunny day. Liipht 10 « • • 16 15 25-82 0 N. 0 airs. 12 ■ • • 20 19 25-82 0 0 0 t • • Haze on hills. 16 23 21 20 26-80 St. 4 0 0 20 • • • 16 16 26-82 St 2 0 0 7 7 • • • "i 11 10 26-85 St 10 0 0 Ditto ... • • • DuU, gloomy day. No 10 ■ • • 19 18 25-90 St. 10 0 0 sun. 12 • • • 22 21 25-85 Ni. 10 0 0 16 24 21 20 26-84 Ni. 10 0 0'' # 20 • • ■ 18 17 25-86 St 10 St 10 0 0 k 8 7 • • • 9 16 14 26-80 0 0 Ditto ... ■ • ■ IHtto ditto. ( 521 ) 1874. Thxsmomx- Htobo- / ft TBS. METBB. 12 1 • 1 • 1 Locahiy. 1 Bbhabkb. M. D. H. • ft .s 1 ft Q 20 ' ■ 8 10 ■ • • • • ft ft ft ft 21 25*82 St. 10 0 0 12 • ■ • • ft ft ft • ft 23 21 25-82 St. 10 0 0 16 26 ft ft • • ft • 19 18 25-76 Cu. 6 0 0 20 • • • ft ft • ft ft ft 16 15 26-72 0 0 0 9 7 • • • -1 • • ft 7 6 25-76 St. 6 0 0 E46ligliar... ft ft ft Dull, gloomy day. No 10 ■ • • ft ft • ft ft ft 22 21 25-67 Cu. 5 0 0 sun. 12 • • • ft • • ft ft • 25 22 25-67 Cu. 6 0 0 16 26 ft ft ft V ft ft 22 20 25-66 Cu. 2 0 0 20 • • • ft ft • • ft • 16 15 26-65 0 0 0 10 7 • ■ • 4 ft ft • 10 9 25-70 St. 8 0 0 Ditto ... ft ft • Cloudy, still day. Little 10 • • • ft • ft ft ft ft 18 17 26-72 Cu. 9 0 0 sun. 12 • ■ • ft • ft ft ft • 27 25 26-62 St. 10 0 0 16 28 ft ft • • • • 25 23 25-62 St. 8 0 0 20 ■ • • • • • ft ft ft 18 17 25-62 St. 8 0 0 / / 11 7 • • ft -2 ft • « 7 6 25-86 St 5 0 0 Ditto ... • ft ft Ditto. 10 • ■ ft ft ft ft ft ft ft 21 20 2600 Cu.S.8 0 0 12 ■ • ■ ft ft ft ft ft • 23 22 26-00 Cu.S.8 0 0 16 26 ft ft ft ft ft ft 22 21 2600 St. 4 0 0 20 ft ft ft ft ft • ft ft ft 15 14 2608 0 0 0 12 7 ft ft t -3 ft ft ft 5 4 2607 St. 4 0 0 Ditto ... ft ft ft Ditto. 10 ■ • • ft ft ft • ft ft 20 18 2500 Cu. S. 6 0 0 12 ft ft ■ • ft ft ft ft • 25 24 25-00 Cu. 3 0 0 16 26 ft ft ft ft ft ft 25 23 25-97 St. 3 0 0 20 ■ ft • a ft • ft ft ft 15 13 26-96 0 0 0 • 13 7 ft • ft -4 ft ft ft 4 3 25*88 St. 8 0 0 Ditto ... ft ■ • Ditto. fc* 10 ft • ft ft • ■ ft ft ft 20 18 26-82 Cu.S.9 0 0 1' Ha 12 • • • ft « « ft • • 24 22 25-80 Cu.S.6 0 0 16 26 ft ft ft ft ft ft 22 19 25-75 St. 4 0 0 m 20 • • ft ft ■ • ft ft ft 14 12 25-78 0 0 0 14 7 ft ft ft -4 ft • • 4 3 26-76 St. 4 0 0 Ditto ... ft ft ft Ditto. 10 ft • • ft ft ft ft • ft 18 17 26-75 St. 6 0 0 12 ft • • ft • ft ft ft ft 25 21 25-70 St. 8 0 0 16 28 • ft ft ft ■ • 24 23 25-70 St 3 0 0 20 ■ ft ft ft ft • ft ft ft 12 10 26-73 0 0 0 15 7 • •• -3 ft ft ft 4 3 25-78 Ci. 2 0 0 Ditto ... ft ft ft Clear, sunny day. Haze 10 ft ft ft ft ft ft ft ft ft 17 16 25-78 Ci. 2 0. 0 on hills. 12 ft • ft ft ft « « • ft 24 22 25-78 0 0 0 16 25 • ft ft ft • ft 23 22 25-76 0 0 0 20 ft ft • V ft ft ft ft • 13 11 26-80 0 0 0 1 16 7 ft ft ft -3 ft • ft 5 4 25-90 Ci. 3 0 0 Ditto ... ft ft ft Clear frosty air. Bright sun. No wind. 10 ft « ft ft ■ • ft • ft 25 24 26-90 Ci. 2 0 0 12 ft ft ft ft • • ft ft • 28 26 25-88 0 0 0 16 28 ft ft ft ft ft ft 24 21 25-88 0 0 0 20 ft ft • • * • ft ft • 16 14 26-92 0 0 0 17 7 ft ft • -3 ft ft ■ 6 . 4 26-00 as.2 0 0 Ditto ... ft • ft Still, cold air. Some 10 ft ft ft • ■ ft ft ft ft 22 20 26-98 Ci. 3 0 0 sun. Haze on hills. 12 ft ft • ft ft ft ft ft ft 25 23 26-98 as. 4 0 0 16 30 • ft ft ft ft ft 23 21 26-00 St. 8 0 0 20 ft ft ft ft ft ft ft ft ft 18 16 26-00 0 0 0 18 7 • ft ft -4 ft ft ft 12 11 25-90 St 8 0 0 Ditto ... ft • ft Ditto Little sun. 10 ft ft ft ■ ft ft ft ft ft 26 24 26-90 St. 6 0 0 12 ft ft ft ft ft ft ft ft a 28 27 25-82 St. 9 0 0 16 31 t ft ft • ft ft 28 25 25-75 St 9 0 0 20 • • ft ft ft ft ft ft ft 18 17 25-78 St 6 0 0 19 7 • ft • -2 ft ft ft 4 3 25-73 St 4 •o 0 Ditto ... • • ft Ditto. k - 10 ft ft ft ft ft ft ft ft ft 22 20 25-74 St 8 0 0 1 u 10 " • . 26 26 26-72 Cu. fi 0 0 —"* 12 . 35 34 2568 St 9 0 0 16 36 . 33 31 26-68 St 10 0 0 20 . 2i 23 26-72 ^t 10 0 0 21 7 18 ; . 21 20 26-60 Cn8.10 0 0 Ditto ... 10 . 38 36 26-60 CiiS.10 0 0 AirridU. 12 . 33 32 25-62 SL 10 0 0 10 39 . 32 31 26-60 St 10 0 0 20 . 26 26 26'64 St. 10 0 0 22 7 10 16 ! ... . . 16 . 33 16 29 2666 25 57 St 10 8t 10 0 0 0 0 Ditto ... Ditto. 12 . 34 30 25 57 St. 10 0 0 16 37 ... ! . 31 30 26-66 St. 8 0 0 20 . 26 24 26 60 0 0 0 23 7 13 ; . 20 19 25-60 Cu. 10 0 0 Ditto ... Gloomv Ay. StiU air. 10 . 26 26 25-60 Ca. 10 0 0 No ran. 12 . 33 31 26-56 St 10 0 0 16 36 . 30 28 25-56 St 6 0 0 20 . 24 23 26-61 0 0 0 U 7 14-6 '. . 22 21 26-70 Ctt. 4 0 0 Ditto ... Still, cloudy day. Little 10 . 32 30 26-70 Ca5.8 0 0 r 12 . 36 33 25-70 St. 7 0 0 16 40 . 33 30 25-70 St. 4 0 0 s 20 . 24 22 25-73 0 0 0 •i 25 7 ... 6 '. . 12 11 2674 0 0 0 Ktto ... SnnDT i»j. Sm ur. 10 . 21 20 26-70 a. 3 0 0 Hue on bill*. Star- 12 . 36 32 26-70 a. 3 0 0 light niglit 16 36 . 36 34 26-62 8t 6 0 0 20 . 28 27 26-62 0 0 0 26 7 is '■ . 20 19 25-60 St. 8 0 0 Ditto ... Ditto. 10 . 29 28 26-64 St. 2 0 0 12 . 34 33 25-60 Ci. 3 0 0 16 81 . 33 32 26-60 Ci. 6 0 0 20 . 24 23 26'68 0 0 0 27 7 9 '. . 16 17 26-?0 St. 10 0 0 Ditto ... Coudy, 5till forenoon. 10 . 30 31 26-70 St 10 0 0 SomeBun. Moonlight 12 . 32 32 25-68 Cq.8. 8 0 0 night. 16 37 . 34 33 25-63 Cu. 4 0 0 20 . 24 22 26-68 Cu. 2 0 0 28 7 8 '. . 16 14 2678 St 6 0 0 Ditto ... Some sun. Light 6in. 10 . 30 31 26-80 Cu.8. 8 0 0 HUTMT. 12 . 38 26-ao Ca. 6 0 0 16 39 . 36 36 26-75 Cu. 6 £. 0 20 . 31 30 26-81 Co.S.7 0 0 2& 7 16 '. . 19 19 25-82 St 4 0 0 Ditto ... ... MiW, tm «ir. Some 10 . 33 34 26-80 St. 6 0 0 lun. Hue. 12 , 36 37 26-78 St 3 0 0 16 37 . 34 34 26-70 K.a6 0 0 20 . 23 24 26-76 Ci. 2 0 0 30 7 "7 '. . 16 16 26-73 Cu. 4 0 0 Ditto ... Ditto. 10 . 37 37 26 73 Cu.S.6 0 0 12 ... . 39 39 26-78 Ca. 4 0 0 ( 523 ) 1874. Thxsmomb - Htgbo- ■& Vff ^Mm IBB. MBTBB. ft 1 1 1 • Locality. Miles. Rbmabks. M. D. H. i J J 3 P * 30 1^ 35 • • ft • .. 36 35 25-64 St. 5 0 0 • 20 « a • ft • • ft . 28 22 25-78 a 3 0 : 0 - 31 7 ■ • • 6 . .. 13 13 25-70 Cu. 3 • 0 0 Elishghar... ft • • Mild still air. Some sun. a" 10 • « • ft ft ft • 1 . 30 28 25-70 St. 3 0 0 Haze. 12 • « • ■ • • ft .. 36 31 25-65 Ci. 5 0 0 16 36 ft • ft • . 36 31 25-62 Ci. 3 0 0 k * 20 • • ■ • ft • ft 4 . 24 22 25-61 Ci, 2 0 0 2r 1 7 ■ • • 13 .. . 20 19 25-65 a&io 0 0 Ditto ft ft ft Gloomy sky. No wind. 10 • • • • • ft ft 1 . 31 32 25-63 Ci.S.10 0 0 12 • • • • • « • ■ . 36 35 25-60 St. 10 0 0 16 38 ft ft • • ■ . 33 33 25-55 St. 6 0 0 20 • ■ ■ • • ■ ft • . 26 25 25-57 CL 4 0 0 2 7 • • « 5 .. . 11 11 25-56 0 0 0 Ditto • ft • Fine sunny day. Cold 10 • • • ■ • • ft < . 29 29 26-56 0 0 0 air. No wind. 12 • • • a ■ • ft ■ . 37 37 25-50 St. 4 0 0 16 40 • • • • ■ . 39 38 25-60 Cn. 6 0 0 ft 20 • « • • • • • * . 30 28 25-57 Ci. 3 0 0 3 7 ■ « ■ 10 .. . 17 17 25-65 St. 4 0 0 Ditto ft ft ■ Mild, still air. Sunny 10 • • • • ft • • ■ . 37 32 25-65 St. 1 0 0 day. Haze on hills. 12 • • • » • « • % \ . 38 36 25-6i St. 2 0 0 16 39 • • ft • 1 . 36 32 25-60 Ci. 3 0 0 20 • • • a ■ ■ a .. 30 29 25-62 Ci. 5 0 0 • 4 7 • • ft 9 . .. 16 15 25-63 Cu.S.3 0 0 Ditto ft ft a Ditto. 10 ■ • • a a • ■ < . 34 34 25-60 Cu. 3 0 0 12 • • • a a a • .. 39 39 25-59 St 5 0 0 16 49 a • « a 4 . 38 33 25'55 St 7 0 0 ■ 20 • * • a • • • 1 . 27 25 26-60 Cu.S.8 0 0 6 7 « • • 16 .. . 22 22 25-60 St 10 0 0 Ditto • a ■ Gloomy, still air. No 10 • • • ft • ft * 1 .. 33 35 26-61 St 10 0 0 sun. 12 ■ • • ft • ft a 1 . 40 38 25-58 St 10 0 0 ft • • 16 41 ft ft ft ft . 39 32 ^5-56 St 8 0 0 20 • • ■ • a a % \ . 28 26 25-61 Cu. 5 0 0 6 7 • • • 11 .. . 18 17 26-60 St 8 0 0 Ditto ft ft ft Still, mild air. Some 1 10 • • « a • « ft 1 . 38 34 26-60 St 4 0 0 sun. Haze on bills. 12 • • « • % % ft i . 40 36 25-66 St 5 0 0 16 41 a a ft • « . 40 34 26-50 St 3 0 0 20 • • • m • * ■ ■ . 30 28 25-56 0 0 0 7 7 • • • 8 .. . 14 14 25-60 St 2 0 0 Ditto a ft ft line sunny di^. Still, mild air. Haze. 10 • • • • a « ft i . 36 85 26-60 St 2 0 0 12 • • ■ ft a ft ft 1 . 40 41 25-58 Cu. 5 0 0 16 41 • • ■ ft ft . 38 38 25-67 Cu.S.4 0 0 1 20 « • • a « a a 1 . 26 26 25-55 0 0 0 8 7 • • • 11 .. . 22 22 25-61 St. 10 N.W. 0 Ditto ft • ft Gloomy day. No sun. 10 ■ • • a a a ft ■ . 33 34 25 50 St 10 N.W. 0 light airs. 12 • ■ • ft • ft ft I . 87 39 25-45 St 10 N. 0 16 40 • • a • « . 36 35 25-35 St 10 0 0 20 • • • ft • ft • I . 34 33 25-35 St. 10 0 0 9 7 • • • 23 ., . 29 29 25-34 St 10 N.W. 0 Ditto ft • ft Gloomy day. No sun. 10 ■ • ■ ft 4 ft • 1 . 35 32 25-35 St 10 K. 0 ft Light air. 12 • ■ • a • » • 1 . 39 33 25-34 St 10 0 0 16 40 • ft ft • 1 . 37 35 25-34 St 10 0 0 • 20 ■ • • . 32 29 25-40 St 10 w. 0 10 7 • ft a 24 !! . 38 39 25-56 NL 10 N.W. 0 Ditto a a ft Saow began to fall 7 10 ■ • • a • a ft 1 . 36 37 25-60 NL 10 S.E. 0 P.M. 12 • • • ft ft • • 4 .. 35 37 25-60 Ni. 10 N.W. 0 Ik 16 40 • ft • a 1 . 33 34 25-55 Ni. 10 0 0 ( 824 ) 1874. Thbbuoub- Htobo- TBB. MVIBB. i 1 1 1 LocaUtj. 1 M j>. .H. i .i 1 3 10 20 32 30 26-60 m. 10 NL 10 0 s. 11 7 29 2ft 28 26-57 N. E. KfahgW ... Snow in fore Md atttr- 10 32 33 26-60 ... .^ N. 8. noon. Some inn M 12 28 31 26-66 9 0 0 midday. Starlisht. 16 37 30 32 25'SO ,0 0 a ■tilln^t. 20 28 25-60 0 0 12 7 U 21 21 25-60 7 N. E. 0 DHto ... Clear, Btmny da;. Hill* dittinct for &«t tine. 10 25 26 26-60 4 E. 0 12 29 28 25-66 2 0 0 16 3a 31 30 26-56 0 0 20 20 20 25-58 0 0 1 13 7 10 12 "a 11 24 33 11 24 31 25-64 26-66 26-65 3 3 N.E. 0 0 0 0 0 Ditto Ditto. £ 16 20 34 80 34 23 32 23 26-62 26-66 0 0 0 0 27 7 27 32 32 .0 0 0 Ditto ... Glocanj day. Little ion. 10 40 41 ,0 0 0 12 42 43 .( 0 0 16 44 ei 10 41 .0 0 0 20 33 33 J 2 0 0 28 7 10 12 22 27 40 4A 27 38 46 1 0 .0 8 0 0 0 0 0 0 Ditto Ditto. 16 49 72 43 44 7 0 0 20 36 36 7 0 0 3 1 7 21 25 26 B 6 0 0 Ktto Snnii J forailoon. Gloomj -a 10 42 42 7 0 0 %■ 12 46 46 0 0 0 i 16 20 4B 89 42 36 43 36 0 6 0 0 0 0 ( . 525 ) 1874 Thbbhomb- • Htgbo- JLOi 7B> TEB. MBTBS. 1 1 • Locality. i F5 Remabks. M. D. H. i • p: • / ' 2 s 22 ft ^ G ^ « • • • 3 7 « B ■ 25 25 as. 8 0 0 KAshghar ... still, cloudy day. Little sun. 10 « • • • • a • • « 43 43 Cu. 6 0 0 12 • • ■ ■ • ■ • 49 50 Cu. 4 0 0 16 54 ... 96 50 52 St. 6 0 0 20 ■ • ■ • • • 38 38 St. 10 0 0 3 7 • « • 26 • • • 30 31 St. 10 0 0 Ditto ... • • • Gloomy sky. Gusts of sand 10 • • • • • ■ • • • 42 44 St. 10 0 0 blown up from the S.-E. in 12 • • • • > • • • • 46 48 1st. 10 E. 0 afternoon. 16 50 60 43 44 St. 10 S.E. 0 V 20 • • » « ■ « • • * 47 47 iSt. lOl W. 0 4 7 ■ • • 33 • « • 37 37 1st. 10 W. 0 Ditto ... • • • Gloomy, damp air. 10 « * • • • • « • ■ 43 41 1st. 10| N.W. 0 12 • • « • « • 44 46 St. 8 0 0 16 50 • • • 78 47 48 St. 6 0 0 \ 20 ... ■ « • • • • 42 42 St 10 0 0 5 7 • • • 32 • « • 36 36 St 10 N.W. 0 .Ditto ... • » • Gloomy damp day and light 10 • • ■ • • « • • • 43 45 St 10 N. 0 breeze. 12 ■ • • • • • • « « 47 49 'St. 9 N.E. 0 16 51 • • • 75 44 45 St 8 N. 0 • 20 • • • • • • • • • 39 39 St 10 0 0 6 7 • • • 28 • • • 32 32 St 10 N. R. Ditto ... • • • Gloomy day throughout. Sleet 10 • • ■ • • • • • • 41 40 Ni. 10 N.W. R. and rain in morning. Air 12 • « « • • • • • • 45 47 St 10 0 0 damp and cold. 16 49 • « • • • • 45 45 St 10 0 0 20 • • • • » • • ■ • 40 40 St 10 0 0 7 7 • • • 32 • • • 38 38 St 10 N.E. 0 Ditto ... • • • Gloomy, cold, and damp air. • 10 • • • • « » • • • 41 42 Ni. 10 N. 0 No rain. §• 12 « « • • • » • • ■ 43 45 St. 10 0 0 s 16 46 ■ • • 41 41 ;st. 10 0 0 20 • • « • ■ • • • • 38 38 St 10 0 0 8 7 • • ■ 30 • ■ • 33 34 !Ni. 10 0 s. Ditto ... • • • Still air, snow fell nearly all 10 • « ■ • • « • • • 33 33 Ni. 10 0 s. day. 12 • • * • * • • ■ ■ 34 34 Ni. 10 0 s. 16 41 • • • • • • 35 35 Ni. 10 0 s. 20 t ■ • • • • « • • 34 34 Ni. 10 0 s. 9 7 • • • 28 • • « ^2 32 Ni. 10 N.W. s. Ditto ... • • • Sunny afternoon. Starlight 10 • ■ • • • 4 • • • 35 33 Cu. 10 N. R. night. Sleet and rain in 12 • • • • • • • • • 37 38 iCu. 7 0 0 forenoon. 16 42 • •» 58 39 40 Cu. 5 0 0 20 • • • • • • • • • 33 33 0 0 0 10 7 • • • 22 « • • 28 28 0 N.W. 0 Ditto ... • • ■ Clear sunny day. Hills very 10 ... • • * « • • 40 41 0 N.W. 0 distinct. 12 ■ • • » • • • « • 42 43 0 N. 0 16 45 • • ■ 88 41 42 Cu. 4J N. 0 20 « • ■ • • • ■ • • 33 33 Cu. 2 0 0 11 7 • • • 16 • • • 21 21 Cu. 3 N.W. 0 Ditto ... ft • ft Sunny day. Snow at nightfall. 10 » • ■ • •• * ■ • 36 37 Cu. 3 N.W. 0 12 • • • ■ • • ft • • 42 44 Cu. 5 N. 0 16 45 • • • 80 41 42 Cn. 7 0 0 20 . . • • ■ t • • • 35 35 St. 10 0 s. 12 7 • • • 25 ft • • 29 29 Ni. 10 S.W. s. Ditto ft ft • Snow all night and till noon 10 ■ • • • • • ft ft • 30 32 Ni. 10 s.w. s. 10 inches deep. 12 ■ ■ • • t • ft ft • 30 33 Ni. 10 w. s. 16 40 • • • ft ft ft 32 34 St 10 0 0 - 20 • « « ft • • ft ft • SO 31 St 10 0 0 b5 ( 526 ) 1874. Thbbmomb- Htgbo- TBS. MBTBB. 1 1 • a Locality. Remabks. M. D. H. * 9 » s ^ f? 1 S ^ S ft Q ^ w s " 13 7 26 ■ • • 29 29 St. 10 W. 0 K46hghai... 1 • • Gloomy, damp, cold day. No 10 • • ■ 33 34 St. 10 S.W. 0 sun. 12 • ■ ■ 34 37 St. 7 w. 0 16 43 64 36 36 St. 10 0 0 20 • • • 32 32 St. 10 0 0 14 7 • • • 32 32 St. 10 0 0 Ditto ... • • • Ditto. 10 * • • 37 38 St. 10 0 0 12 • • « 39 40 St. 10 0 0 16 44 • • • 38 39 St. 10 0 0 20 • • • 36 36 St. 10 0 0 16 7 2S • • • 33 33 S*;. 10 £. 0 Ditto ... • « ■ Gloomy, damp day. No sua. 10 • « • 36 36 St. lOi N.E. 0 12 • • » 39 40 St 10 N.E. 0 16 46 » • • 40 41 Si 10 0 0 20 • • • 36 36 St. 8 0 0 16 7 2S • • • 32 32 St. 10 £. 0 Ditto ... • • • Ditto. 10 • • • 34 36 St. 10 £. 0 12 a « * 40 41 St 10 N.B. 0 16 44 » « • 40 41 St 10 0 0 20 ■ « • 33 33 St 10 0 0 • 17 16 • • • 40 38 St 10 W. 0 Yapchang ... 14 Best-house court on sandy 18 49 • • • 38 32 Cu. 10 N.W. 0 plain. 20 « • • 33 30 Cu. 4 0 0 18 7 • • • 27 26 St 10 N.W. 0 Ditto ... 16 • « « 46 41 Haze. N.W. 0 Y4tie Hi.sfl&p. 26 Court of Residency. Instru- 19 64 • « • 40 36 H. S.E. 0 ^7 ments in open air in shade of • 21 « • « 36 326 St 4 S. 0 a N. verandah. 1- 19 8 ■ • • 36 32 St. 10 S.E. 0 Ditto ... • • « 10 • • • 48 43*6 Haze 0 0 • • • Mild air, cloudy sky and hazy S 12 46 42 Cu. 8 0 0 atmosphere. 16 60 93 48 40 Cu. 8 0 0 20 ■ A ■ 42 41 St 4 0 0 20 7 27 • • • 31 31 St 10 0 0 Ditto ... • • • Ditto. 10 • • « • ■ • 60 47 Cu. 6 0 0 12 k • • 62 46 Cu. 6 0 0 16 61 103 60 41 Cu. 4 0 0 20 • • « 46 40 0 0 0 21 7 34 • » • 37 36 St 10 N.E. 0 Ditto ... • • • Dittov 10 • • • 48 42 Cu. 8 E. 0 12 • • • 64 46 Cu. 6 SJS. 0 16 60 97 60 42 St 10 0 0 20 • • ■ 46 39 St 10 0 0 22 7 30 • • • 36 32 St 10 £. 0 Ditto ... • • ■ Cloudy and hazy sky. Little 10 ■ • • 44 40 St 10 0 0 sun and hot. Ijight airs 12 • • • 49 42 Cu. 8 0 0 from E. and 8. 16 67 101 62 61 Cu. 8 0 0 20 • • • 46 46 St 10 0 0 0 23 7 • • • 86 36 St 10 0 0 Ditto ... • • • Stm, cloudy and hazy day. 10 • t • 43 37 St 10 0 0 12 « • • 46 40 St 10 0 0 16 81 60 41 St 6 0 1 0 20 • • « 43 41 0 0 0 24 7 t ■ • 61 46 Cu.S.4 N. 0 Ditto ... • • • Sunny, spring weather. Hazj 10 • • • 66 48 Cu. 4 N. 0 atmosphers. In 12 • • • 60 62 Ci. 6 N.E. 0 * 16 67 121 67 46 Ci. 3 0 0 « ( 627 ) 1874. Thbikokb* Htg&o- XUf ^^ TEB. MBTBB. a Q 47 i • 0 Locality. J Remarks. M. D. H. 9 • • • ■ a ii • • • i QQ ' ' 24 20 47 Ci. 3 0 25 7 • ■ « 34 • • • 41 38 Cu. 8 N. 0 T&ngHisBir. a ■ a Sunny, spring weather. Hazy 10 12 • • • • B • • ■ • • • • 64 61 46 61 Cu. 6 Ci.S.8 N.E. 0 0 0 atmosphere. Clouds high. 16 69 • • • 118 68 46 Ci. 6 0 0 20 • ■ • ■ ■ • ■ • • 50 43 0 0 0 26 7 • • • 30 • • • 36 36 CuS.10 N. 0 Ditto ... Ditto. 10 12 • • ■ • • « • • • • • • • • • 67 66 50 65 Cu. 8 Ci. 6 E. E. 0 0 • ■ • a a • Wind in yariahle gusts. 16 70 • • • 121 68 48 CuS. 8 S.W. 0 / 20 • « ■ • • • ■ • • 47 42 0 w. 0 27 7 ■ • • 33 • • ■ 40 40 St. 10 E. 0 Ditto ... Ditto. 10 • • • * • • * ■ • 63 48 St 8 N.E. 0 ■•««■■ a • « Ditto. 12 • • • • « • • • ■ 61 52 Cu. 7 N.toS. 0 a a a 16 66 116 64 46 Cu. 6 N.W. 0 20 • • ■ • • • ■ • • 60 44 Ci. 5 N.W, 0 • •a 28 7 • • a 36 • • • 43 39 Ci.S.4 N.E. 0 Ditto ... Ditto. §• 10 • « ■ • • • • • • 64 64 Ci.S.4 N. 0 ■ • • a 12 • « ■ • « • • • • 68 68 CM. 5 N. 0 16 76 • • • 122 60 46 Ci. 5 N.W. 0 20 • • • • • • • * 9 60 42 Ci. 8 0 0 29 7 • « ■ 29 • • • 40 37 St. 8 N. 0 Ditto ... Cloudy day. Cold wind. Much 10 • • • • « • • • ■ 53 42 St. 5 N. 0 haze. 12 • • ■ * • • • • • 60 48 St. 8 W. 0 16 65 • * • 91 69 46 St. 8 w. 0 20 • * • • • • • • ■ 46 39 St. 6 S.W. 0 30 7 • ■ • 32 • • • 43 37 St. 8 N. 0 Ditto ... ■ a ■ Sunny weather. High clouds. 10 • • • ■ ■ ■ • « • 66 59 Ci. 6 N.W. 0 Gusty winds, and hazy at> 12 • • • • • ■ • • • 71 60 Ci. 6 E. 0 mosphere. 16 79 113 66 65 CS. S. 6 E. 0 A 20 • • • ■ • • 66 56 Ci. 3 N.W. 0 31 7 • • • 39 • • • 60 43 St 8; N.W. 0 Ditto ... Ditto. 10 • • • ■ • • « • • 60 50 Ci. 6 N. 0 12 • • • • • • • • • 63 49 Ci. 5 E. 0 16 73 ■ • • 109 66 58 St 5 S.E. 0 ^ V 20 • • ■ • • • 65 41 Ci. a S.E. 0 4 ? ' 6 7 • • • 33 • • • 42 38 Ci.S.9 0 0 Ditto ... • • • Cloudy and hazy. Breeze at 10 • • • • • • a ■ ■ 67 64 Cu. 6 0 0 sunset 12 • • • • ■ • • • • 73 61 Ci. 4 0 0 16 76 • • • 126 67 62 St. 8 N.W. 0 20 • • • ■ • • • 9 • 60 60 St 5 N.W. 0 7 7 ■ « « 41 • • • 46 39 St. 8 N.W. 0 Ditto ... a a a Breezy forenoon. Haze thick and low. 10 • • • • • • • ■ a 74 65 St 6 N.W. 0 12 • « • ■ • • ■ • • 78 67 Ci. 4 N. 0 16 79 • • • 129 70 59 CL 4 0 0 • 20 • « • • • ■ • « • 67 47 Cu. 6 0 0 8 7 • • • 31 • V • 42 38 Cu. 8 N. 0 Ditto ... a • a Ditto. 10 • • • • • • 9 9 9 58 61 Cu. 9 N.W. 0 12 • • • • • « • • a 71 62 St 9 0 0 16 73 * • • 126 70 67 Cu. 3 0 0 20 • • • • • • • • « 67 47 Cu. 6 0 0 9 7 • • ■ 36 a ■ • 49 44 St. 10 0 0 Ditto ... ■ • • Dull cloudy day. Thick ha2«. Gttst^ northerly wind in 10 • • • • • • • • • 62 50 St 10 N. 0 12 « ■ V ■ • • ■ • • 66 51 St 10 0 0 evening. 16 64 • • • 87 62 53 St 8 0 0 I 20 • » • ■ ■ • • ■ a 57 44 St. 10 N. W. 0 I 1 1 1 ( 528 ) 1874. M. D. 10 11 12 13 14 15 ft < 16 17 18 19 20 I 21 H. 7 10 12 16 20 7 10 12 16 20 7 10 12 16 20 7 10 12 16 20 7 10 12 16 20 7 10 12 16 20 7 10 12 16 20 7 10 12 16 20 7 10 12 16 20 7 10 12 16 20 7 10 12 16 20 7 Thbrmomb- TBB. M 08 60 61 55 64 70 71 86 75 71 78 67 .a d 34 41 37 38 42 46 42 32 35 33 70 31 42 Hyobo- HBTBB. 127 139 136 75 PQ 45 57 61 59 52 49 49 50 49 46 45 50 52 51 50 50 56 60 58 53 50 61 64 64 58 54 60 65 63 57 60 68 74 70 61 54 62 70 73 63 50 69 68 62 57 54 61 65 77 55 47 53 58 60 56 51 pq -§ i 40 47 48 46 44 41 41 42 43 42 42 45 45 44 45 45 47 50 47 45 45 51 51 50 49 48 60 52 61 51 50 56 55 51 49 49 54 64 67 55 44 60 52 43 49 39 46 48 51 41 38 42 46 46 44 45 St. 10 St. 10 St. 8 St 8 St. 10 St. 10 Haze H. H. H. St. 10 Haze H. H. H. St. 101 Haze H. H. H. St. lOl Haze H. H. H. Haze H. H. H. H. St. 10* Haze St. 6 Cu. 6 St. 10 Cu. 3 Cu. 3 0 0 0 Dust. D. D. D. D. 0 Cu. 2 Cu. 3 Cu. 6 Cu. 2 St 10 St. 8 St. 6 St. 6 St. 8 St. 10 • n3 a « a I 0 N. N. 0' 0 0 N.W. 0 J^.W. 0 0 0 0 0 N. 0 N. 0 N. 0 N. 0 N.W. 0 N. 0 N. 0 0 0 N. 0 N.W. 0 0 0 0 0 N. 0 N. 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 N.W. 0 N.W. 0 0 0 N. 0 N.W. 0 N.W. R. N.W. 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 N.W. 0 N.W. 0 N.W. 0 - 0 0 N.W. 0 0 0 N. 0 N.W. 0 0 0 0 0 N. 0 N.W. 0 N.W. 0 J^.W. 0 0 0 N. 0 Locality. 0) Yang Hissar Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto • ■ • • Ditto Ditto Ditto .. Ditto Rbicabbs. Dull cloudy day. Thick haz^. Gusty northerly wind in evening. Little sun. Dense haze fog. Air damp and chiU. Haze fog. Steady breeze from north. No sun. Ditto. Wind cold. # Ditto ditto. DensQ haze fog. Gusty wind all day. Slight rain at sunrise. Hazy forenoon. Cloudy day, and still air. Clear sky. Still air. Warm, sunny day. Gale from N.W. Dust clouds all day. Darkness firom noon to 2 P.M. Lull from 4 to 6 P.M. Fine dear day. Light airs. Distant haze. Cloudy, breezy day. Little sun. Much haze. Ditto ditto. ( 620 ) 1874. Thbbhohs- Htgbo- • ^^^« ^B* TBB. HBTEB. Localify. Remabks. M. D. H. • P • § OQ i • • .s • • 21 10 • • • • • • a • • 58 46 Haze. N.W. 0 # — 12 • « • • • • ■ • • 61 50 H. N.W. 0 16 68 • • • 88 65 49 H. 0 0 20 • • ■ • • ■ • ■ a 58 45 H. 0 0 22 7 ■ • • 4d • ■ a 51 48 St 10 N.W. 0 Ting Hissir • • • Densely hazy sky. 10 • fl • • • • • ■ a 59 50 H. N.W. 0 12 • a • ■ • • • • • 63 51 H. N.W. 0 16 68 • « • 98 65 58 H. 0 0 20 ■ • • • • • • • • 58 48 H. 0 0 23 7 ■ ■ ■ 89 • a • 55 48 St 6 N.W. 0 Ditto ... • • • Sunny and dowdy day. Hazy 10 fl • ■ • ■ a • • • 65 48 St 8 0 0 afternoon. 12 ■ a • ■ • ■ • • • 70 50 Cu. 6 0 0 • 16 76 • ■ ■ 122 72 51 H. S.£. 0 20 • • • • • • • ■ • 60 47 H. 0 0 24 7 • • • 39 • m • 52 47 St 6 N. 0 Ditto ... a • • Ditto. 10 • • • • ■ « ■ a a 67 48 H. N.W. 0 12 • • • • • a ■ • • 71 51 H. 0 0 16 76 • • ■ 125 73 57 H. s. 0 20 ■ • « • • • fl ■ • 61 46 H. S.E. 0 25 7 • • • 37 ■ ■ a 51 45 Cu. 3 N. 0 Ditto ... • • a Sunny, clear sky with high 10 • • • • • • • ■ a 70 50 Ci. 5 N. 0 clouds, and steady hreeze all 12 ... • • • a • « 74 52 Ci.S.4 N. 0 day, with slight lulls. 16 80 • • • 127 77 55 Ci. 3 N. 0 •r ' ^ April. 20 • • • • • • ■ as 62 53 0 N. 0 * 26 7 10 ■ ■ • • • • 40 • ■ ■ • ■ • « ■ ■ 55 72 46 54 H. H. N. 0 0 0 Ditto ... • - • Hazy sky more or less aU day. 12 • • a • • fl ■ as 77 56 H. 0 0 16 82 ■ • • 135 78 56 Cu. 8 0 0 «^^ 20 am • a • • • V a ■ • 69 48 Cu. 7 s.w. 0 Ditt» ... • fl • Still, warm, sunny day, dear 27 7 • • • 39 • • • 58 53 0 0 0 sky. Lower air obscured by 10 ■ • • a • • • •• 74 55 0 0 0 haze and glare. 12 ■ • • • • • • a • 80 59 0 0 0 « 16 84 • « • 137 81 60 0 0 0 20 • • • 42 • • m 67 56 0 0 0 28 7 • • • • • • • • • 61 49 0 0 0 Ditto ... • • ■ Ditto, with light aiiB. 10 • • • « • • a • a 76 54 0 N.W. 0 12 • • • • • a • • • 79 56 0 0 0 16 86 • • • 136 84 58 0 S.W. 0 20 • • • • • • • • • 69 55 0 0 0 29 7 • • a 50 fl • • 62 56 0 0 0 Ditto ... • • a Ditto. Intonse low haze and 10 « • • ■ « • • • • 76 56 0 0 0 glare. 12 • • • • • • • a ■ 80 59 0 0 0 w 16 88 ■ « fl 140 85 60 Cu. 5 N.W. 0 20 • ■ a ••-1 ■ a • 70 55 Cu. 3 0 0 30 7 10 • ■ ■ • as 47 • V • a • • a • ■ 61 73 52 53 St 10 Cu.S.8 N.R. N.E. 0 0 Ditto ... • fl • Sunny and gusty day. With chradf and luuw and dust 12 a • • • • • a a a 76 54 Cu. 5 S.E. 0 16 88 ■ • ■ 130 84 62 Cu. 6 N.W. 0 6f k 20 • • • • • • • a • 70 58 Cu. 3 N.W. 0 • 1 7 « fl • 46 • a • 61 53 0 S. 0 Ditto ... • • • Violent duststorm in after- i> 10 • • « • • • • ■ a 78 56 H. s. 0 noon from the norUi against S§' 12 • • a • • • a • • 82 59 Dust s. 0 a south wind. 16 90 • a • 134 82 58 D. N. 0 ki M 20 a • • • • • • • t 78 55 St 10 N. . 0 66 ( 530 ) 1874. Thebmohb- Htobo- • TEB. MBTBB. M. i • 1 • a 1 0 Locality. i ■ « • Bbmabks. D. 1 H. 1 • 1 ^ • 64 1 2 7 • • • 49 • mm 67 St. 10 N. Y&Dg HiB8&r Variable gusts of wind driying 1 1 10 a a • • • a a a k 66 63 D. S.-B. 0 dust clouds all day, and ob- 1 12 • • • ■ k a ■ • • 66 63 D. W. 0 scuring skj. 16 83 ■ a a 91 70 64 D. S..W. 0 20 • t • a » a a a • 67 62 H. N.-W. 0 3 12 • mm • k k 86 66 Cu. 3 N..W. 0 Topuluk ... 16 Clear sky, and hills seen dis- t 16 95 • a ■ 130 86 67 Cu. 6 N..W. 0 tinctly. Camp on fields. 20 • « • 46 a « ■ 67 46 Cu. 2 0 0 4 12 • • • • « • ■ • • 83 67 Cu. 3 N.-W. 0 CizUi 17 Sky obscured by base, and at- 16 91 « • ■ 136 78 66 H. N.-W. 0 mosphere by glare. Best- 20 ...i 46 a a • 66 60 H. S..W. 0 house. 5 3 • • • 42 • • • 66 46 Cu. 2 N.-W. 0 Ditto. 12 • • • • • k 80 67 St 4 N..W. 0 Eokrab&t ... 26 Hazy weather. Camp in rest- 16 63 93 80 66 Ci. 6 0 0 house. 20 • • • • ■ • 72 66 Cu.S.8 0 0 ' 6 12 • ■ a k • ■ 82 66 H. N.-W. 0 Tarkand ... 26 Residency in fort Inslaruments in shade on north side of a 16 60 126 79 66 Cu. 4 N.-W. 0 20 • • • 46 • ■ • 70 63 St. 8 0 0 wall in an open court 7 ' 7 • ■ a 40 ■ • a 68 60 H. N.-W. 0 Ditto. 10 • • • • • • • • • 70 66 H. N.-W. 0 12 • % • • • • ■ a a 78 66 Cu. 6 N..W. 0 16 91 • • • 126 80 66 Cu. 6 0 0 20 • • « • ■ a • • • 67 62 St. 8 0 0 8 7 • • • 4J • • • 64 62 H. 0 0 Ditto a a • Warm, sunny, hazy day. 10 4 • • V • a • • • 73 63 St. 6 0 0 Bright glare. 12 • k k • • • • a • 77 64 Cu. 8 N. 0 • 16 81 • • « 136 79 66 St. 6 0 0 OB 20 • ■ • a a a ■ • « 67 62 St. 8 0 0 9 7 • • • 42 • a • 66 63 H. 0 0 Ditto • • • (yusiy, dusty, haiy day. Light 10 • ■ • • • • k « • 73 63 H. N. 0 auB. 12 a a • • • • • ■ • 80 66 H. w. 0 16 84 • • • 133 80 66 H. w. 0 ^ • • ■ a • a • a a 74 62 H. w. 0 10 7 • • • 48 • « • 62 62 St. 10 N. 0 Ditto • • • Hazy, gusty, dusty day. Light 10 • • • • ■ • a • ■ 77 64 H. N. 0 airs. 12 • • • • • ■ ■ • • 79 66 H. N..W. 0 16 84 • • • 101 80 66 H. W. 0 20 • ■ • • ■ • • a • 72 61 St. 10 w. 0 11 7 ■ • • 47 • • • 61 49 St. 10 N. 0 Ditto .%. • « • Dense hazB» and gjare. Air 10 • • • ■ • • • • • 73 62 H. N.-W. 0 thick, and dusty. WmdM 12 • • tt • • • • • • 80 66 H. W. 0 gentle puffs. 16 89 • • • 108 81 66 H. w. 0 t 20 • • • • ■ a • ■ • 72 63 H. 0 0 12 7 • • • 48 • • • 67 66 St 10 0 0 Ditto • k • Hazy, thick weather. 10 • • • a • • • • • 84 64 H. w. 0 12 • « • • • • • • • 84 69 H. N.^W. 0 ^ 16 93 • • • 123 83 69 H. 0 0 • 20 • • • a a • • • • 70 66 St 4 0 0 13 7 • • • 63 • % m 63 46 St. 10 0 0 Ditto • » • Ditto. 10 • • • • • ■ • k a 71 61 St 10 N.^W. 0 12 • • ■ • a • • • a 76 64 St. 10 0 0 16 86 • • • 91 74 62 St 10 0 0 20 * » • 1 > • a fl a 69 61 St 10 0 0 14 7 • • • 48 • • • 61 41 St. 10 0 0 Ditto • • a Ditto. 10 • • • ■ a • • a • 70 66 H. w. 0 - 12 • • • • • • • at 76 66 H. w. 0 ( 531 ) 1874. 1 Thebmoms- Htgbo- TSB. liBTEB. « • '2 T3 • Locality. 1 Remabks. • • M. D. H. a • .S • p 75 PQ ■ 56 :3 o 0 r 14 16 84 • • • 103 H. 0 Yarkand ... » a • Hazy thick weather. 20 « « • • ■ a ■ • • 67 51 H. 0 0 15 7 ■ • • 48 • • m 61 43 St. 10 0 0 10 ■ » ■ • • • % • • 75 58 H. 0 0 Ditto • a a Ditto. 12 • ■ • • • a t • t 79 58 H. N. 0 16 86 a • a 106 80 56 H. N. 0 20 • « • • • a a • a 68 63 H. 0 0 16 7 « • • 40 a a • 61 45 St 8 N. 0 Ditto ■ a a Ditto. 10 « a • a a ■ • • • 77 46 Cu.S.6 N. 0 12 • • • ■ ■ a a • • 80 56 H. N.W. 0 16 86 • ■ a 128 64 57 H. N. 0 20 • • • at* • « • 72 55 Cu.S.8 0 0 17 7 • • ■ 46 • ■ a 63 52 St. 10 N. 0 Ditto a a « Ditto. 10 • ■ a a • • a a • 'J^ 56 H. N. 0 12 a ■ • a ■ a ■ a a 81 66 H. N. 0 16 89 a # » 121 81 58 H. 0 0 20 • a • a • a • a a 71 53 Cu. 6 0 0 18 10 • • • 40 • • % 80 68 St 8 N. 0 Yangiohik... 12 Cloudy and wann. Air clear of 12 • • • a ■ • • a a 82 61 Cu. 6 N. 0 haie. 16 88 • • • 112 82 63 Cu. 4 N.W. 0 20 • • • ■ • • • ■ a 71 65 Cu. 2 N.W. 0 19 12 • • » a a • ■ ■ ■ 90 71 s.w. 0 Yakskamba 18 Camp on fields. 16 97 a a * 120 83 71 0 w. 0 Bazar. 20 • • a 41 a • a 78 56 St 4 w. 0 20 10 t • a 45 • a a 67 55 Eargalik ... 16 Best house. 12 • • • • % % ■ • a 83 67 0 0 0 16 93 a • ■ 128 83 58 Cu. 3 N.W. 0 20 • • • • at ... 74 1 57 0 0 0 21 12 • a • • ■ • ■ ■ a 86 60 0 s 0 Beehtarik... 20 Camp on fields. 16 91 a a a 125 84 58 0 s. 0 20 • « • 51 • a a 55 60 0 N.W. 0 ^■^ 22 10 a • • a • a a a • 75 57 0 s. 0 Yolaric 12 Dustetorm and gusty whirls 12 ■ • a a a • a • a 78 60 0 S.E. 0 in afternoon. 16 86 • • • • a ■ 71 65 Dust Ver. 0 20 • • • 41 ■ a ■ 65 50 D. Ver. 0 23 12 • ■ • a a • « ■ • 79 67 St p S. 0 Eokyir . . . 13 Enter hills. 16 85 % • • 96 77 66 H. S. 0 20 • • • 43 • a a 65 55 H. S.W. 0 24 18 80 42 • • • 67 ■ • • 0 0 0 Acmasjid ... 24 Windy and dus^ day. Camp on Tiznaf Biver. Thun- 26 12 • ■ • a a a • • • 78 55 Cu. 6 s. 0 Chighbgh... 12 16 84 • a a a a a 65 54 St 10 s. R. der showers from noon to 20 • • % 43 a a a 55 48 St 10 0 0 2 P.M. 26 6 • • • 33 • mm 46 42 Cu. 3 N.W. 0 Ditto. 16 73 • • • • • • 67 68 Cu. 3 N.W. 0 ILhojaMaz&r 18 Camp in narrow valley on 20 a a • • ■ • ■ • « 57 46 0 N.W. 0 6 Tiznaf river. 27 10 • • a 32 • • • 75 52 Cu. 2 0 0 Duba • •• Camp on ditto at union of 12 • a • mm* • a a 77 53 Cu. 6 0 0 two streams. 16 81 a • • • a a 60 61 Cu. 8 N.W. 0 • 20 • k a • • • a a a 60 43 Cu. 3 0 0 Ditto ■ a ■ Halt 28 7 ■ a • 25 a a a 46 42 Cu. 3 S.R. 0 10 ■ • a ■ • • • ■ a 71 62 Ci. 6 S.E. 0 12 • a a a a • « a a 72 62 a. 3 E. 0 16 80 a • a a a a 61 46 H. N. 0 20 a a • • • • % • * 55 42 Cu. 6 0 0 29 7 .«• 24 a a • 45 38 Cu. 3 • N.W. 0 Ditto. » ( 532 ) M. 1874. D. 29 90 31 6r 2 3 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 H. 12 16 20 12 16 20 12 16 20 12 16 20 14 16 20 12 16 20 12 16 20 4 16 20 18 4 16 20 4 12 16 20 5 12 16 20 7 10 12 16 20 5 17 20 4 12 16 20 4 12 16 20 4 12 16 20 Thsbhomb- , Htobo- tbb. hbteb. H 71 68 76 69 60 61 69 ee 64 68 41 45 68 80 86 71 a p CO 25 22 31 16 15 15 8 10 14 25 14 10 16 24 39 PQ 68 65 51 48 61 42 70 64 54 58 52 40 43 43 48 65 52 45 66 43 40 24 45 38 57 26 62 43 32 58 57 44 40 39 39 36 34 38 37 40 31 25 47 40 31 73 67 55 45 78 75 64 56 65 63 66 39 50 21 26 49 35 29 49 Oi. 4 43 Cu. 5 35 Ci. 2 40 ,Ci. 3 51 Ci. 32 0 46 Ci. 3 43 Cu. 2 36 0 45 St. 10 39 ;St. 10 37 Ni. 10 37 'st. 10 37 St. 10 44 Cu. 8 52 Cu. St. 34 Cu. Cu. 39 St. 35 5 8 8 5 8 41 iCu. 30 Cu. 0 St. 10 3 0 Cu. Cu. Cu. 0 48 St. 47 St 35 33 35 35 33 31 35 34 38 29 24 41 33 30 61 49 42 41 68 61 57 52 58 3 3 3 5 8 St., 10 St. 10 Ni. 10 Ni. 10 Cu. 2 Ni. 10 Ni. 10 Ni. 10 Cu. 6 Cu. 3 Cu. 3 Ni. 10 Cu. 4 3 5 3 2 Cu. Cu. Cu. 0 Ci. Ci. 0 0 Cu. 8 St. 10 50 'Ni. 10 48 Cu. 4 N. S. S.E. N. S.W. S.W. 0 S.E. S.E. s. S.W. s.w. N.W. S.E. 0 S.E. S.E. S.E!. W. w. N.W. S.W. s. 0 0 0 0 S.E. 0 w. w. w. w. w. s. 0 s.w. s. s. s. 0 s.w. S.W. 0 N. N.W. N. 0 N. N.W. N. N. N. N.W. N.W. N. I 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 R. 0 R. 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 R. s. s.. s. 0 s. s. s. 0 0 0 s. 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 R. 0 LocaKty. Gurunj C&ldi CliiraghSildi CulAnuldi... Kukat Aghzi Kashmir Jilga Ehapalang . . . ActAgh Ditto. Brangsa . . . Caracoram. Daulatbeg . . Ditto. Burcha Ditto. Murgi Ditto. Brangsa S&ser Ditto Ditto Tuty414c ... Glacier. Tuty&l&c. Changlasg .. Ditto. Pau&mik Ditto. Tagar a S 9 14 12 15 26 12 20 25 21 26 12 10 18 16 12 12 Rbmabks. Camp on riyer bank. Camp at junction of two streams. Cross Yangi Dawan to camp in bed of Tarkand River. Stormy night. Camp in river bed. Rain at sunset. Thunder and lightning wiUi hail and rain 3 to 4 p.m. Gusty wind. Little sun. Camp in bed of upper course Yarkand River. Camp near ascent to Caracoram Pass. Camp in bed of tributaiy of Shayok River. Gusty wind with snow and rain at nightfalL Camp in a deep gulfy. Snow and sleet all day, and gusty wind. Night starlight Halt Snow till noon. Sunny afternoon. Snow in forenoon whilst cross- ing Saser Glacier Pass. Snow at sxmset. Camp on Nubra River. Cross Cariwal Pass. Clear, sonn^, breezy weather. Camp on river. Cloudy day, slight ram in after- noon. ( 633 ) 1874 M. D. 16 16 17 H. 4 12 16 20 4 12 16 20 4 18 20 Thbbhoms- TSB. I 80 73 64 i a 30 22 27 I QQ Htobo- p 46 69 66 67 38 67 62 61 44 60 62 42 66 63 40 30 49 46 42 39 48 42 6 1 Cu. 10 Cu. 6 Ca. 3 0 0 0 Cu. 8 Cu. 8 Si 10 Cu. 4 Cu. 6 Locality* N.W. 0 N.W. 0 N.W. 0 N. 0 £. 0 E. 0 N.E. 0 0 0 N.W. 0 W. 0 0 0 Tagar. Satti Ditto. Diggar Ditto. Leh I Bbmabks. 14 24 Windy, dusty day. Camp above yiUage, on fields. Hot, sunny forenoon. Cross Diggar Pass. Camp Besidency garden. In camp the instruments have always been set on a board fixed to a tripod stand, and stood in the shade at the edge of a tent verandah awning. In quarters they baye stood on the tripod in the open air of a oourt-yard in the shade on north side of a wall. The higher reading of the wet bulb thermometer in frosty and yery damp weather seems to be attributable to the protection afforaed to the bulb against tbe operation of the air by a thin layer of frost or uneyaporated water, in either case respectiyely, remaining in the mesnee of its coyering muslin. (Sd.) H. W. Bellew. 67 CHAPTER XV. COHFABATIVE VOCABULABY OF 80HE DIALECTS SPOKBN IV THE TEBBITOBY OF EABHOHAB. BY DB. H. W. Parts of tie hody^ diseases, and medicines. English. Tarkandi. Kirghiz. Singh Od1(. W6khL Ealmiw. Head. B^h. Bdsh. K61 Sar. T61gay. Fonhead. MangULy. MoBgULy. Bak. BtUdu MaiidL Temple. Cdl&o-tawi. Chaka. 8oyL zm. Shnl. Face. Ydz. Ytiz. Fyats. BoL Nyib-KhiT6. Ear. oaiiu). Cdl&c. Ghanl. Ghfsh. Chhikin. Noee. Bdrdn. MuTon. Nftdz. Mfs. Nostril Tnshc. Tnshao. D&iz. M. Sary. JSje. Edz. Etiz. Tsem. Nyndnn. Eye-lash. Sjipik. Eirpik. P4tsch. Ch. tapk. Eye-lid. K Capaghi. E. Capaghi. Ts-past. Ch. gnsht. N^gin. Eye-brow. C&sh. C&sh. VirAw. Viraw. Camsion. Eye-papil. Bobo. Carfigha. Gh&tsak. Ch.Siyahi. N. Ehara. Month. Aghz. Aghaz. Ghoy. Ghash. Aman. lap, Calpdc. Calpdc. Paytiz. Tiafch. UmL Tongne. Onm. m. ra.Dii. Ziy. Thfk. Khilin. Mnlk. Goshi. Shar&zd. Shind. Tooth. ChiRh. Chiflh. Zandin. Dandik. Sh6dmi. Tonsil. Chilchik. Kichik-til. Dz&-z£y. Zangak. Palate. Tamghao. Tanglay. Ebm. Ehom. Tangni. Chin. Manh. Manh. Zang&n. Zanakh. BArak. Cheek. Cobz. Cobz. Ln]\j. Eapdz. B6n. Pat-lnnj. lOtATIrlta. Jaw. Ingak. Sa«41. Tanghac. SadU. Yajfii. Eelin. SadO. V W vV • Beaid. Bayish. Moustache. Bdrat. Mdr^t. Bnmt Zilftyn. Sacti. ( 535 ) English. Yarkandi. Kirghiz. Sarigh Cdlf . Wdkhi. Kalmac. Neck. Gardan. Gal. Garden. GrardAn. Ehuzun. Throat Bogh4z. Yalc4. Mokh? Hale. Khol. Nape. Boyun, Moyun, Mokh. Makh. Shil. GuUet. Umgach. Halcum. Halcum. Halcum. Dokhtar. Larynx. Bdghdyac. Kekistak. Khpdrg. Kabitok. Khyukun. Clavicle. Akhurtak. Akhirak. Khafgd. Pushbar. Ehunkurka. Scapula. Dolu. DAla. Dold. Fayak. Diil. Back. Uch&. Area. Area. Dam. Arda. Loin. Ba-l. Bel. Myaz. Maz. Noi^hiln. Spine. . Umurgha. Omurtca. Wayogh. Dam. Nordn-yasiin* Thorax. Gokus. Kokrac. P6z. Push. Chaydin. Breast. Amchik. Emchik. Tej. Bap. Aymin. Nipple. Amchick. Emchik. Tejkol. Bapsar. Eokun. Rib, Cawnrgha. Cawnrgha. Pahld. Pdrs. 0 Ehobsdn. Flank. Yan. Y4n. Yacca. Pahl4. Cabarghd. Cabargha. Armpit. Coltuc. Coltuc. Coltic. Khkl So. Shoulder. Yaghrin. Kipti. Sefd. Isp. Miir. Arm. BiHc. Cardyflic. Charoet. Malungerch. Gharan. Elbow. Jaynac. Chicdnac. Yom. Barit. Tokhd. Cubit. BUac. Kunjilic. Yoru-zust. Yurm. Chimugin. Wrist. Bighish. Banja. Ch. band. Bandidast. Bagalsak. Hand. Cdl. Cwal. Znst. Dast. Ear. Palm. Alacan. Alacan. Alacan. Phun. Alakhan. Fist. Mush. Mush. Mut. Gawust. Noturma. Finger. Barmac. Besh-cwal. (ngyakht. Yangl. Kar. * Nail. Timac. Tirmdc. Nishdwr. Digar. Ehimsin. Abdomen. Ctia&c. CuTsac. Dawr. Dor. Gisdn. Ghroin. Ticim. Churay. Chab^. Yoghut. Chhawih. Anns. Eon. Kon. Znm. Thdm. Shin. Eoehcanac. Penis. Sik. Eotac. Ghdr. Zhtikh. Pat. Shodo. Vagina. Am. Hom. Efs. Kush. Utugun. ( 536 ) English. Testicle. Hip. Thigb. Knee. Knee-cap. Leg. Calf. Ankle. Foot. Heel. Sole. Toe. Heart. Lang. Stomach. Intestine. Liver. Kidney. Spleen. Bladder. Skin. Hair. Flesh. Fat, Blood. Bone. Brain. Marrow. Vein, Tendon. Cartilage. Tarkandi. Kaka. S&n. Yoia. 'Kz. T. lapiki. Ayigh. P&chac. Topuc. Phut. T4p4n. Iz&ngdltik. Barmac. Zhurak. 6pka. Cusac. tJchay. Jigar. Borak. Tihil. Dowusac. Tera. Teya. Chach. At. Fash. Y&gh. C&n. S6ngak. Mingh. Zhilik. T6mur. Pay. Cnmurchac. Kirghiz. Tashac. Yanbash. Yotd. Tiza. T. Kozdi. P&ycha. Baltar-goshi. Cizilashic. Phut. S6ghanchak. Tap4n. B4nji. Yiirak. 6pka. Chemarchac. (Jchay. Baghir. Borak. Talah. Towarsac. T^rL Ch&ch. Y^t. G68h. Yagh. Can. S6ng4k. Miya. Yilik. T6mur. P4y. Chumurchac. S4righ Call. Saful. Thdmzak. S4n. Zdn. Z. topic. Lang. L: gdkht. Pezband. Pez. Nabdrg. Tap4n. Ingyakht. Zord. Sol. K^ch. Rawd. Sud. Arwits. Khyanz. Patafish. Parkhaw. Kshid. Gdkht. W4st. Wakhin. UBtakhw4n. W4khi. Sif4L Shunj. B4jlang. Barin. Putyerch. Barikp4d. B : guflht. Bankband. Kaf-pudz. Posht. My4na-piidz. Yangh-pudz. PuzuT. Shosb. Ward. Shingar. Jigar. Waltik. SCk-tahl. Kalmac. Mojg. Rag. P4y. Kartish. PCst. Bip. Gusht. Boghn. Wakhrn. Yerch. Maghz. 8irk. Bag. Rag. Makh. Bildigin. Shi\jih. Kohi. Twan. Obtuc. Khdl. Bulchic. Shflwa. Shakha. Shir. Khul. Usca. Thawuc. Khdl-horo. Zhurkun. Ozhkih. Gessin. (Jtoigessin. Elkin. Bur. Delun. Eh41. Arsan. L&sun. M4khan. Semjin. Tedson. Y4flan. Ehkin. Chimigin. Shdrusun. Sddusun. M^lirugan- ( 537 ) EDglish. Tarkandi. Kirghiz. S&righCdlf. Wikhi. Ealmde. Dung. Puk. Ph6o. Gb^. Gib. Bfisun. Urine. Stiduc. Sidic. Mayj. Mizk. Shayasin. Flatus. Osr&c. 6sdM;. z^g. Ghmd. OnganE. Semen. ^ Mani. Sharwut. 'Ushc. Sh&wat. Notuc. Millc. Sut. Sut. Eshawd, Zharj. Ussan. Tears. Yash. Y&sh. Ydkbk. YashL Nulumsun. Saliva. Tupuk. Tukmk. Shaw61. Tdf. Tnkur. Mncns. P6tla. Chimkirik. Jar&hat. Lishp. Ehan. Snot • Mishiik. Yirin^. QUt Eat. Nosun. Pns. Chiring. Yiring. Gh&nd. Obirk. Eolsun. Body. Badan. B6y. Ustiikbw&n. Tan. Kbim. Pnlse. Tomur. « Tomur. Suwj. Bag. Sudus. Gall. 6t. 6t. Tir&ch. Tilkha. Thosun. Gland. Baz. Baz. Bez. Tsiland. Nor. Yawn. Asnak. Esnl Yiz&m. Zim. Ibsby&na. Belch. Eekik. Kekir. IWgh. Bok. Eekir. Sob. Zhighl4n. Zhighl&n. Naw» Nytij. tlnl Pain. Aghrf. Agric. Bizd. Efjd. Obdu4- Fever. Tap. Tepma. Tef. Shondr. Chichir. Ague. Bazgik. • Bazgik. Andoy. Andav. Chichir. Smallpox. Chichak. Chfchak. Qid. Sprug. Chichak. Cougb. Ydtil. Ydtal. KyakM, Eokh. Ehany&na. Catarrh. Zuk4m. PhutuptL Y6ng. Zuk6m. Thomo. Palsy. Shal. Shal. Shal. Shal. Ehaohndw&, Madness. Saranglik. Saranglik. Thayd, 1 Llv. Eftrikta Jaundice. S&rghiyip. S&righ kasal. Zird-parwen. Zart Sharla-5bdYi&. Wound. Zakhm. Zakhm. Zakhm. Sharkha. Ulcer. Yar&. Yard. Yal. Pustule. Tar&. Yard. J68h. Batfomo. Ringworm. TAz. T&z. Toz. Taz. Ehojdg6r. Itch. Ciohish. Eotnr. Zyokht. TTbilpah. 68 ( 638 ) Eogliflh. Eirgyz. SinigkOfilf. w.^ Kalmie. Absoeas. Club6n. Ohfo&n. TsHond. Tsilind. TBsikkcbL Groitre. Buc4c. Pnc&c. PokMk. Zhighir. Bokdr. Physician. Y4chi. Tawup. Tabfb. TabCb. Emchi. Medicine. 'Daw&. D&r^. Dore. D&ru. Em. Capping. Shakhak. JChmr^. Shaw. Shaw. Lonkha. Ointment. Malham. MftH^om. MiilhitTn. Malham. Tdrnkdu Cluinn. OMm&r. Tdmiur. Tdm&r. Tdmir. jPgrms of relatiofukip. Man. Adam. Er-kishi. Ad4m. Ehale. KAn. Woman. Aghichi. Mazhim. Maddm. Eand. Bawgi. Husband. Er Ar. Er. Chor-charsu. Shohar. iLhdrgdn. Wfe. Eh&tdn. Eh&tun. Ghigu. Zan. Ashchiend. Father. At4.Dad&. Ata. AiL Tal. Awa. Mother. Ana. Auk Auk. Nan. EjL Son. OghaL Oghul. Pdts. Pdtr. Khdwun. Daughter. Ciz. Ciz. Eadzen. Zaghit Kltiyukan. Infant. B&14. B&UL T«^ Tsakallly. Oltigata. Boy. T48h.b4UL Jigit. Tiuih. Zilik. ZamAn-kash. Z41ok6n. Girl. Chaucdn. Aghachi. Gh&ts. Zaghit Gfjikta. Brother. Ak&. lu. Vi<5d. Varit Akha. Sister. Singl. A^cha. £ya.SingL Takh. Khfiy. Dd. Grand&ther. Chong-dadi. Chong-at&. BAb. Pap. Aw. Grandmother. Chong-an&. Chong-an&. M4m. mm. lyL Grandchild. Nawera. Nawra.. Nabtis. Naptb. TdroL Uncla» paAemaL Tagh6y. Tagh4 KhAlak. Bdok. AnntypotomaL Dad&.&yl]aL T&yja. TltB. Vlck Unde, matemaL Ani-akisl. md4mak. BucL Aunt, matomal An&-ayl]fli. An&-aylisL Vita. VAnk. Nephew. KlifMlM. Ak&^bAl&sL Pdtish. Eharyaiu Akha^kkawon. Niece. ikk^'hiUd. Ak&^!iz.b41«H. P&tish. KhaiyiuL Dd-khdyukon. ( 589 ) English. TarkandL Kirghiz. S&cigh OdU. W&khL Kalm&c. Cousin. Jayn. Jayn. Kh&r. Bitsops. Step-father. Cgaj-dad&. Ugay-&t&. Hdayj. Tatayj. Step-mother. tJgaj-an&. Ugay-ani. Mftdayz. Nanayj. Step-son. tJgay-oghal. Ugay-b&Ul. tJgay-ptits. Pdtrayj. Step-daughter. Cgay-ciz. Ugay-dz-b&lft. Cgay-radzen. Zaghtirayj. Widow. TM-kh&tdn. Tul-kh&tdn. Be-chor. Bewa-zan. Khdrgundgi. Widower. TM-ar. Tul-er. Beghiyn. Bedok. B&wga-dgd. Orphan. Tatfm. Yetim. Yatim. Saghir. Onchun. Brother's wife. Tangi. Tanga. KMyun. Khuy. Bergin. Sister*s hushand. Cdyoghal. Yezda. Khaserz. Khasirdz. AMhk, Wife's sister. ayin4gh&. C&yin.4ghi. Kh&yun. Khiiy. Ayghachi. Wife's hrother. Kh/it6n-6k&sL K h4tun-4k&8i. Khaserz. Khasirdz. Kdrghun-&gh6. Hushand's brother. Ar-4k£si. Er.4k^L Kh&ytin. Vurut. Kh£dim-&kha. Husband's sister. Ar-singlisi. Acha. Khaserz. Khdy. Kdkun-d6. Kinsman. Carind&sh. Carind&sh. Khaysh. Khlsh. Kh6df . Akhanar. Family. Oew&c. Oe-drdzgar. Parkhokh. Kdkht. Gar. Ancestors. Ulugh-anlAd. Tati-pusht. Th&-pukht. Haft-pusht. Tdrul-tosur. Tribe. (Jrdgh. Crdgh. Clus. Caum. (JliXs. Household fumitfure and domestic animals ^ 8fc. House. Oe. Oy. Ch^ Khdn. Gir. Ger. WalL T4m. Tam. Dfw&l. IXw4L Bashin. Boofl Toyus. Torus. TAm. Kut Torga. Door. Ishik. Ishik. Div^. Bar. Oydua. Window. Tonglnk. Tushc. B^zn. Bitz. ZokhA. Chimney. MddL Tdnduk. Mdri. Bitz. Ork£. Hearth. « Koling. Koling. Kholing. Dfldong. Court H4wlL H&wU. Kdch6. Aghfl. Khdra. Steps. Palamp&ya. Palamp6y&. Palamp4ya. Wakhar. Shotta. Ladder. Shotd. Sh&ti. Shatt&. Wakhar. Shotta. Well 1 Cuddc. Cuddc. Cuddc. Zh5y. Ghdy. Cuddc < 640 ) English. Yarkaodi. Kirghiz. SirfghCuH. WAkhi. Ealmac. Bucket. Stighi. SbghL Slight Solghd. Bope. Aghamchi. Arkan. Vilkh. Shivan. Arghamchi. Broom. Bpurgvi. Shpurga. Vidir. Drapich. Shulwar. Dost heap. Pokluk. Rich. Kigh. Thig. Thart Otuk. Horse. At. At. Vorj. Yash. Murun. Mare;. ■ Byt61. Biy&. Virdz. MadAn. Colt. T4y. T&y. T4^. Toy. Filly. Tshi-tAy Cdn&n. Stir.t&^. Toy. Mane. Yal. Yfil. Y41. y&i. Y&l. Tail. Coyurde. Cuyuruc. Thtim. Bichkam. Kirghasin. Hoof. Tdwac. Tdwac. Phut Sumb. Col. Dung. Tizik. Tizik. Som. Shur. Arghasin. Stable. BgiL Akhta-kh&na. Akhor. Wanar. Gir. Tether- Ishkal. Arkan. Kashan. Shiyan. Tshkal. Halter. Nukta. NuktA. Nukta. AfsAr. Nukta. Nose bag. Ttibra. Tobra. Tnfra. Tufra. Tobra. Qothiag. JuL Y&ptSo. JaL Jul. Kfl^ldle. Egir. £gar. Bithftn. Pazn. Emal. Bridle. Zhtigh&D. Jligfok. Tizgin. • Jilaw. Tizgin. Bit. Jojay. Jojay. Viz&D. Ikh4n. Ghazar. Stirrup. {z&nga Uzanga. Padb&n. Bik&b. Dura. Girth. Tang. Basmayil. Trang. Irang. IJlang. Saddle bag. Talkand&Q Y4ghaz. Ehuijin. Khaijin. Baling. „ strap* Canjugh&. C4nchogh&w Canjugh6. CanchaghL Gh4njoc4. „ pack. Mul^. M0I&. Tuc6m. Mtill Tokhunu Whip. Camchi. CamchL Camchf. Bnshdp. Mela. Load. Zh^. Yuk. Vur. Vdr. Baran. Horse-shoe. Tacca. Tagha. Nal. Nal Takha. Farrier. TacMil Tagh&chi. Na'lband. Nalband. DarkhAn. Nail. Mekh. Mik. Mekh. Mekh. Mekh. Hammer. Bulka. Bulka. Bulka. BolikA. Bulka. ( 541 ) English. Yarkandi. Kirghiz. S4ngh CuH. Wakhi. Ka1m4c. Knife. Sum-tarash. Chim-tarash. Sam-tar&sh. Sum-tar&sh. Ydmun. Basp. Aykik. Eg4w. Akak. Tomur-shudun. Forceps. Ambur. Ambur. Ambur. Ambur. Shudun-abdd. Bull. Uy. Bdc4. Werz. » Druksh. Bukho. Cow. Inak. Inak. Zhaw. Thu. Okur. Ox. Ugoz. Okfiz. Khej. Khassi. Okdz. Calf. Moz^. Torpac. Wishk. Wdshk. Tughul. Steer. Ghonajin. Ghonajin. Khajak. Er-tughul. Heifer. Tishf-moz^. Stir-wishk. Yak ox. Cotaa. CotAfl. Staur. Zdg. Cotas. Cow dung. Poc. ZA.mpa. Ghash. Sigin. Angasir. >> » dry. Tizik. Huyl-zA.mpha Koksut. Sigini-kok. Cordr-angasir. Cow stalL Egil. Kalla-kh&na. Ghijed. Pukht. Cdsha. Hoof. Tuwac. Tuyac. Kshalgak. Snmb. Tdwuk. Horn. M6nguz. Mdyiiz. Shaw. Shaw. Owur. Hide. Teya. Tera. Past. Pist. Arsin. Udder. Bijik. Jaylin. Vistan. Bap. Elkin. Teat. Amehik. Amehik. Tej. Tej. Elkin. Milk. Sut. Sut Shevd. Zharj. Ussun. Cream. C4ym&gh. C4ymac. Marev. Marik- Us8un-t6snn. Curd. Caytic. C&tic. PAyi. P4y. Caytic. Whey. Caytic-Sdi. Sarigh-sd. Kshats. Shop. Shar-ussun. Butter. Muska. Mashka. Maskiw. Maska. Tosim. „ milk. D6gh. Hyr&n. MM. Zlgh. U6gh. „ boiled. Ydgh. Yfigh. B&wun. B6ghn. Shara-tosun. Cheese. Panfr. Zughrdt. Panlr. Panfr. — » dry. Cdrdt. Curdt. Cdrdt. Cdrdt. Shdrmuc. Cattle. Kalla. Arlash. Kalaw. MM. Okur. Grazier. P&tachL P/idAchi. Zhdb&n. Shpdn. P&tachi. Goat, he. Takka. Takka. Buch. Buch. Tikka. „ she. Ajkd. i^jkd. Vaz. T6gh. Yaman. b9 ( 642 ) Engliflh. Yarkandi. Kirghiz. 86r(ghCd]i. Wdkhi. Kalmdc. Kid. Oghlac. Oghlac. Ghirv. Chigh. Ishfghd. Goat 8 hair. Chtipu. Kflf. Z6r8. Zorts. Noson. „ dang. M&yak. Cdrghol. Bucdn. Pushk. M&yakk Groat-herd. Patachi. Coychf. Zhdbdn. Shpdn. Bam. Cochc^r. Cochdur. Wem. War. Khotso. £z(k. Ewe. Gadic. Erik. C6y. Stir-gath. Mdy. Sddic. Sheep. C6y. Soghluc. C6y. Gath. TokhlL Gadak. C6e. Lamb. CM. Cozl. Barkd. Wnrk. Wool. Coyi-tuki. Zhdn. R^v. Win. Ghar. NAsnn. Sheep-cot. Cotan. Cur&. Gh4L Pdkht. Khaaha. Shepherd. p4tachi. C6ychi. Zhob&n. Shpdn. Kh.kharalddc Camel, male. Tuga.DaTa. Tdga, Bdghrd. Shntur. Bdra. „ female. Ingan {ng&n. Ing&n. Shutur. l^man. young. T^yl4c. Biighr&. T&yldc. Sh. wushk. T : kobon. „ hair. Zhun. Zhdn. Bev. Zorts. T : noeun. Ass, male. Hangi. Hang-eshak. Angi. Kh6r. Er-aigigaL „ female. Eshak. Eshak. Markab. Kh6r. AnjigaL » oolt T&y khar. Tiy-khar, T4y.khir. K6wat. A : kobon. Mule. Cock. Eiu^hir. Elmraz. K&chir. Khoraz. Khachir. Khurds. Khachir. Khurdz. Lds. Tacca. Hen. Tdvuc. T&wuc. M4ky4n. Kork. M4k. Chicken. Chuja. Chdja. Chija. Chdcha. Egg. Tokhm. Tukhm. Kakha. Tokhm. Anddgar. Beak. Tumshuk. Tumshnk. Nosk. Nochk. A^man. Wing. Candt, Can&t. • Candt. Tap. Shogor. Feather. Tdki Tiik. Phdn. Pdr. Shogor. Crop. Dallik. Yamsawr. P&khor. Pagh&r. Gizzard. TdshHk. Bdrtaghl Cursac. • IHta. Makhan. Cock crow. Chilay. Ch£cir. C£yd. B&ng. Dogarwd. comb. Ul^'fk. IA14rzik. L&zak. T61gay. spur. TimAc. Tacawr. Nishawr. GheyiL ( 643 ) . Englkh. 1 Yarkandi. Kirgbiz. Sdrigb OdM, W4kbi. Kalm6c. Dog. It. Yit. K \\M. Sbacb. N6kb6y. Bitch. C4njic. C&i\jic. Kb£d. M&cb-BbM^b. Kokun n6kb6y. Puppy. Kdchuk. Eucbuk. Cbokb. Skan. N : Kobun. Cat. Musbuk. Misbik. Pisb. Pisb. Mfs. Kitten. Arsl&n. ArsUn. Arsl&n. Pisb-zam4n. Arsldn. Bai Sicbkin. Cbicbc&n. Pure Pure Kbulgbtina. Bug. CbbosL OhactL Kbasak. Cbocbi LouBe. Pbit. Pbit. Sp&l. Sbisb. Pbit. Flea. Burga. Bdrga. Sirga. Spurzaig. Sarsa. Ply. Cbiwin. Cbiwin. Pisbaw. Maks. Wasp. Sarigb beya. Hfira. H&rL Gnat. Pasba. Pasba. Pasba. Pisiw. M&sba. Spider. Urmacbik. Hannacbik. Yurgbimisb. Kborkba. „ web. Tor. Tor. Tor. Centipede. Siksan-pbut Siksan-pbut. Sbilut. Scorpion. S4Hgb-esbak. Cb4y&n. Kbsbdyinsber. Norgbun. Snake. ZbilAn. Yil4n. Tufusk. PiUks. Mogbi. Ant. Chumild. CdmurtsciL Cbum&l^. Beetle. C6ngaz. C6nguz. Jiflk. Prog. Pacd. Pacd. Sbarbej. M6kbt. Mekila. Lizard. Patm&cbuk. Patmacbuk. Cbarbost. Tb6t. Worm. CAt. Cit. Cbirm. Piricb. Kborka. Duck. (Jrdak. (Jrdak. Murg&yf. Y&cb. Urdak. Goose. - Gb4z. C&z. G&z. Kb/ilun. Pigeon. Eaptar. Kaptar. Cbabawd. Kabit Kaptar. Bird. Cdcbc4cb. Cdobc&cb. Tokbd Kark. Sbobur Nest. Cbanga. Cbanga. y&tb. YAtb. Sbobur-gir. Table. Joza. Baldang. Takbta. Joz-Sbira. Bedding. y6tcan. Oran. E^Yung. KurpL Orun. Carpet. Zilcba. Gilam. Gilam. PaULs. Kewis. Pelt. Kirgiz. Kirgbiz. Jayn. Jiyln. Isbigba. ( 6U ) EngliBh. Yarkandi. Kirghiz. Sirigh Culf. W&khi. Kalm4c. Mat. B6ra. Borya. Borya. Kolsun. Combin. Sang. Or a. Ora. Zh^v. Gh6v. Ora. Clothes. Egin. l^.gin. L^l Biit. Debil. Box. Sanddc. Sanduc. Sanduc. Sanduc. Abdur. Shirt Komlak. C6ynao. Yakt& Yakt4. Kiyilik. TrowBers. Tambal. Tambal. Tamb4n. Tambin. Shalwur. Frock. Chapan. Chapan. Chap4n. Chakman. DebiL Coat. Pejf. Faraji. Galim. Ikurma. Qoak. Th6n. Th6n. Za. „ fiir. Juba. Ichik. Warb6n. Karist. Naka-debil. Cap. Buc. Thakiya. Khawz. SMz. Toraae. „ fur. Tilpac. Tilpac. Tnm4kh . Turban. SaJla. SaUa. Khawd. Salla. Scarf. Bel-b%h. Bel-bagh. Miy6nd. Miy4n. Boz. Veil. Chumbal. Chumbal. Chumbal. Chfl. Glove. Pdylay. P4yky. Pflay. PQa. P&ylay. Boot. 6tak. 6tuk. Pyakh. 1 Shushk. Ghosun. Shoe. Kepish. Kawsh. 1 Kft.fk«h. Kafsh. Shagha. Stocking. P4ypdk. Payp4k. Padber. Jnrab. Paypac. Sleeve. Yang. Yang. Zuyl. Durast. Yang. Collar. Y4ca. Ydca. Zhar^j. Ghirdk. Yakh4. Skirt. Utuk. Itak. D&man. D4man. Etak. Pocket. Coyinti Ch6yntac. Yanjuc. Jib. Coydn. Button. Tughma. Topchi. T6c. Tak. • Topcha. Bundle. Buchca. Buccha. Bagh. Boccha. Spectacles. Kdzgi. Ldz-aynak. Ayinak. Ayina. Aynak. Pen. Calam. Calam. Calam. Calam. Calam. Ink. Siy&h. Siy4h. Siy4hi. Siyahf. Siy4h. Paper. E4ghaz. K4ghaz. E[4ghaz. K4ghaz. Yasan. Knife. Bichac. Buchac. Ch4gh. Ch4cur. 6toghur. Spoon. Cdshuc. Caahuc. Chip. Kapch. C48hue. # ( 545 ) English. Tarkandi. Kirghiz. S&Hgh CiiH. Wikhi. Kalm&c. Ladle. Eapgir. Ch6much. Kamich. Shinaghur. Bowl. Jam. Ay&c. Chan6k. Cuban. Aghih. Cup. Kasa. Nim-k&sa. Kora. PU. fdish. Dish. Tacsi. Chara. Tasch. Childpcha. Platter. Ayac Tuwaa. Tahac T4wac. Tray. Khw&n. Khwan. E[hw&n. Khw&ncha. „ cloth. Dastdrkhw&n. Dastarkhw&n. Tea-pot. Ch6gdn. Ch&eghun. Ch4yghdn. Ch&yjoeh. Chogdn. „ cap. Chfni. Chini. Chini. Chini. Chini. Cauldron. Caz4n. Cazghin. Spindeg. D^. Caz4n. Saucepan. Deg. Deg. Deg. Deg. Gugglet. Iwyic. Apt&wa. Ihric. L6t. Ktkkwuc Jar. ' Kyup. Chilak. Khyup. L6t. Sownlgho. Candle. Sham. Sham. Sham. Sham. Sham. Lamp. Chir&gh. Chir&gh. Tsiriw. Chirdgh. Shumnr. Wick. Philik. Philik. Philik. Philik. Gh61. OiL Y6gh. Sdyi-yigM. Rawn. Boghn. Usun-tosun. Flour. Un. Un. Yawj. Yiimj. Ghoyur. Salt. TiSz. Tdz. Nam&zj. Namak. Dabsdn. Onion. Piy4z. Piy4z. Piy&z. Pyiz. Mangasir. Garlic. Sams&c. Sams^. Sams&c. » Swan. Sugar. Shakir. Shakar. Nah&t Cand. Honey. Asal. Asal. Asal. Asal. ft o66» Heya. Hari. Hari, Hera. „ wax. Mom. Mom. Mom. Miom. Bdsin-asal. Bread. N&n. N&n. Shpfk. TOidch. Borsak. Biscuit. CtUcha. Takich. Takich. Put&k. Porridge. Y4rma. T&rama. Dalya. Kucha. Broth. Shorhd. Shorwa. Sharwa. Shurwa. Sholun. Stew. Ash. Ash. Xsh. Khotan. 610 ( 546 ) Tie eUmentt and teortU in eonnection English. TarkandL Kirghiz. SMgh Cdli. W4khi. Kalin&;. Fire. it Ot. Ydts. Bakhnfl. Ghal. Fuel. Ot4n. Otun. Zhiyz. Ghoz. Tdlan. Flame. 6t-uldgh. dt-dlugh. Tsirdkh. Tdlan-tdla. Smoke. Ddtdn. Tdtdn. Thdt Thit tJtan. Ashes. Kuyl. Edl. Th^r. PMg. Eomsun. Charcoal. Kdmdr. Komdr. B&jdr. Skorch. Mursun. Spark. tichkdn. tichkdn. tichghdn. Fireplace. Uch/ic TdlghA. (Jch&c. Dildong. T61ghur. Poker. Cusay. Cusaw. Wakharej. Modun. Water. Sd. Sd. Khats. Ydpk. Ussun. Bain. Y&mghdr. Yaghmdr. Awd. Wdr. Ehur. Snow. C&r. C4r. ZamAn. Zam. S48un. Ice. Muz. Mdz. Shto. Tkh. MosuD. Hail. TdUL. D614. Ware. Cloud. Buldt Buldt Yarm. M6r. Olun. Loh. Fog. Dam&n. Yotman. Bds. Salkin. Spring. Bulic. Bul4c. Bdlac. Chashma. Buloc. Hirer. Dary&. Sd. Daryl Zhirdv. Kh&ydic. Lake. Kdyl. K61. Eawl. Okun. Marsh. Liyldc. L&ylic. G6z. Bog. Shlampat. PhAtik. Shartang&z. Shdwir. Quicksand. Phatik-MLy. Phatkakh. Eh^mreg. LA-shawir. Canal. Aric. Eric. W&d. Jo6. Bdkh4. Aqueduct. Ustang. Ustang. Wa8p6m. Joe. Tagh. Ford. Gechid. Eechik. Pang. Guzar. Kmhik. Bridge. Cawnic. Eoprdk. Eapruk. Sk4rd. Takhta. Boat Quni. Kama. Eem4. Kima. Air. Haw&. H&wd. HawA. NArin. Sky. Asmin. Asmin. Asm&n. Asm&n. Tengir. Wind. ShamiU. Shamil. Sham&L DamA. S&lkin. ( 547 ) English. Yarkandi. Kirghiz. S4rlgh Oillf. W4khi. Ealm&c. Storm. Buran. Buran. Buran. Kh&to-s&lkln. Thunder. Gdldd. Edldu. Tanddr. Loh-dogarw&. Lightning. • Ch&cchuc. Ch4oohuc. Wad&fz. Ch&cnlgho. Sun. Eunash. Gdn. Khdr. Yir. N4r. Moon. lyf. . ly. • MAst Zamak. S4r. Star. Yulddz. Yilduz. Shturj. St&r. Yilduz. Night, Gija. Gija. Ksh^b. Naghd. Soah. Day. Kdndiiz. Gdnddz. Math. Baw&r. 6dur. Morning. Artigan. Arta. Piganas. Sah4r. Noon. Yarim-ktin. 1 Yarim-gdn. Mathawr. Pesbfn. • Evening. Akh8h4m. Akhshim. ShAm. Shim. To-day. Bugdn. Bugun. Ndr. Uthg. Ondur. To-morrow. [row. 'Day after to-mor- Arta. OgM. Erta. 6gdn. Pig&n. F&l. Figah. T6rt. Mangdur. Nakodur. Yesterday. [d.y. Day before yeeter- Tdnugun. tJldshgdn. Tdnugdn. tichgdn. Gbadar. Wadfr. Yaz. Tost. Tort. Echkoldur. Last night Tdnugdn gfja. Biyawr Shabram. * Week. Hapta. Hapta. Hafta.,* Jum£ N&minodur. Month. Ayl. ly. MAst. Mdy. S&r. Year. Yfl. n. Sftl. S41. Yfl. Summer. Y&z. Y4z. Menj. T&bist&n. Dol4n. Autumn. Edz. K&L. Paydz. Tiri-m4h. Eiytin. Winter. Cfsh. Ciysh. Zimistftn. Zamist&n. Mosun. Spring. Arta-yaz. Bah4r. Wdgh. Bah&r. Eh&wir. Sunshine. Apt&b. Gdnish. Rhi1w&. Ylr. Pit4o. N&rgharw4. Shade. Gdlga. Knlaka. S4y4. Saya. Sudur. Land. Yar. Yar. ZamM. Zamin. Gh&sir. Earth. Topa. Topa. Sith. Shit. Sh6wur. Dust. Chang. Chong. Sttha-khorm. Ehdyun. Mud, day. L6y. Saghaz. Lay. Saghaz. Shartangoz. Ehat. Chitak. Sand. Cdm. Cum. Shush. Liw&rch. Elsin. ( 548 ) Engliah. Tarkandi. Ejrghiz. S4rfgh Coll. W4khi. Ka]m4c. Gravel. Guram. ShaghU. Reg. Cholf-Bh4wnr. Mountain. T4gh. Taw. Chap4k. Eoh. (Jla. Stone. T46h. T4sh. Zh^r. Ghar. Cholun. Defile. T&rWc. Tang-tir. • Tang. Tang. Jilga. Hill pass. Daw4n. Acha. Daw4n. Daw&n. Kohtal. Cayem. Gh4r. (Jncur. Ghkr. Sumukh. Sarv. Ndkon. Plain. Myddn. Conush. Mydftn. Myd4n. Taghaflhi. Meadow. Ayl4c. Jilga. J&yl4w. WAkhk. . Ayl4c. Oazir. Desert. Choi. Choi. D&wkht. Dasht Khoyura. Plateau. P4mir. S4y. P&mir. S4y. Jilga. Myd4n. G4zir. Ravine. Y&r. Yor. Parend. Irgih. Pit Azgal. Chucur. Azgal. Sarv. Nyokun. Earthquake. Yar-tabridf. Yar-tabridur. Zm4d-junj. Zalanjum. G4zir-kodiln4. Gold. Alton. Alton. Til4. Til4. Altun. Silver. Komush. Gumush. Nucr&. Nucra. Sagh4-mongun. Copper. Mis. Mis. Mis. Mis. Zis. Iron. Tumi'ir. Tumor. Spin. Ylsh. Tomur. Lead. Curghashun. Cdrghashtin. Cdrghashtin. Surb. Khorgholjin. Brass. Tdch. Tdch. Biranj. Curac. Sulphur. G6gurt. GTogut. Gogud. Gogird. ShataghiiL Antimony. Surma. Surma. Ehalii\i. Suzma. Arms and armour, 8fc, Sword. Talw4r. CaUch. Mizj. Khingar. Ulda. Dagger. Khanjar. Bihbtidl. Knife. Bich4c. Buch4c. Chogh. Shop. Ortuc4. Shield. Sipar. Calc4n. Sipar. Sipar. Spear. Neza. Neza. Neza. Jida. Qub. Gholdti. Chom4c. Ghaldd. A84y. T4yac. Stick. As4. H488a. Hasul. Mundu. Musket. Miltic. Miltic. Miltic. Miltic. Boh. ( 549 ) English. Yarkandi. Kirghiz. S&rlgh CuH. W&khi. Kalm&c. Powder. Doru. D&rd. D&rd. D&rd. • D4rih. Bullet Oc Oc. Pdth. Wuch. Sumnn. Shot. Misha. Ohachma. M&sha. &4chma. Khetih. Bow. 6cyL Yij. Ocy&. Kam&nak. S&duc. Arrow. Oc. Col-oc K Pdth. Snmun. Waisthelt Bel-hagh. Bel-wagh. Eamar. Kamar. Bds. Armour. Yar4c. Yarigh. Yar&gh. Yar&gh. Boh-dldata. Helmet. Dorulgha. DnwnlghL Dabalgha. IXSwulkha. Army. Lashkar. Coehdn. Cdshdm. Lashkar. Cherik. Soldier, Foot. PiyAda. Sarb4z. PiyAda. Sarb4z. Y6ghdn. „ Horse. Atldc Atlio. Suw&r. Suw&r. Moran-omntu Banner. Byrac. Togh. Byrac TiSgh. T6c. Dram. Dnmbak. D&wuL Tabl. D61, D6L D6mbur. Trnmpet. Carnay. Carney. Narsing. Biwih. Fort Corghdn. Curgh&n. Oala' Cala'. Shiwa. Tower. P6tay. Borj. Eangdra. Tip-kh4na. Bdlong. Trench. Ehandac. Khandac Mine. Taship. ' Lacam. Barricade. Tdman. B6tay. Chap. Chip, P6ta. Agricultural terms and products. Town. Kand. Eant Eh&r. Shahr. Shanco. Village. Yai. Yiz. Tirwach. Diyir. Ahlf. • Farm. Ydrt Ydrt. Tayij. Bdna. Thumon, Plough. Bac6B. Bdcursdn. Sp6r. Sp6ndr. Andisin. „ share. Ttsh. Tish. Tish. Eish. A. Tomur. „ yoke. B6yun-turak. M6yun-tarak. Ydgh. Saval. Ehanut Uaarrow. Sdram. Malla. Nimdthg. Ildr. Spade. Katman. Eetman. BeL BQ. Eurza. Shovel Enjak. Eurak. Fay. Hoe. Bel. Bel. Banta. ill ( 550 ) English. Yarkandi. Kirghiz. S4righ Ciilf. W&khi. Ealmic. Pirong. KyAki. Ayrl. Skawn. Ach6. Majir. Pickaxe. Ch&cush. Ch&cuch. Matajrn. OyU. Sickle. Crghdc. Urghac. Zonr. Zutr. Khadiir. Sieve. Gh&lbir. Gh4lbir. Parwez. GhalbQ. Sezib. Field. Tarla. Cird. Atiz. Zemz. Wundr. Tagh. Turf. Chim. Chim. Chfm. Undusun. Clod. Kesak. Chalma. Khnlg. Manure. Akhkt. Akhlat. Bijayn. Thart. Topo. Seed. 1 Tukhm. Urugh. . T^ghm. Tukhm. Ekin. Stack. Challa. A^ju. ][up. Charkop. Indist. Tdd&. Thaptsi. Sheaf: Bagh. Birbagh. Bogh. B&gh. BAduk. Heap. Dong. Chach. Song. Ts&rih. Com. Bughz. Ashlik. GhaUa. Zhaw. Abba. Wheat. Bughd^y. Bughd&y. Zhand4m. Ghadfm. Chag&n-laran. Barley. Arpa. Arpa. Chushch. Yurc. Araw4. Maize. Con&c. Con4c. Conic. Conic. Erdnisbish. Millet. Terik. Tank, JiiarC. Ehor&suk. Bice. Sh41. Sh41. Sh&l. Totnrgha-ish. „ grain. Guruch. Gurunj. Girinj. Toturgha. „ straw. Pal&U. Palal. Pakh&l. ■ Saman. Com straw. Sam4n. Sam&n. Wdkh. Wuflh. Sam&n. Carrot. Zardak. ■ Zardak. T&wun. Turnip. Chamgdr. ShAm. Lo-ung. Cabbage. Chilang, Lahana. Hs&y. Radish. Turup, Turb. 1 Aysa. Pumpkin. Kapak. C4b& Kh&buk. Cucumber. Congan. Gho. Lucerne. Ydrpshca. — th&bP Beda (dry). Ozhirkf Omsun. 1 Mustard. Cachi. Z&ghun. Z&rgbiin. • Shartusnn, Hemp. EAudir. Elntfr. Flax. Zighir. Zighir. ToBun-tar&n. Cotton. Kiwaz. Kewaz. Kawaz. Eobun-mudun. ( 551 ) Engliflh. Yarkandi. Kii^hiz. S&righ Ciili. W^hi. Kalm4c. Cotton seed. Chigit. Chighit Chigit K. Orghusun. „ wooL Pakhta. Pakhta. Pakhta. Kobun. Tree. Darakht Darakht. Darakht. Darakht. Modun. Wood. Aghaj. yagh&ch. Shnng. Ghoz. Modun. Branch. 8hakh. Shakh. ShIUdu Shaikh. M. tirsun. Leaf. Yapr&c. yapr&c. Park. Parch. Bichir. Flower. GuL Chichak. GuL Spraw. Chichak. Fruit. Yamish. (Jrugh. Mewa. Mewa. tirdsun. feoot Zhildiz. Yildiz. Yfldlz. Bekh. (Jngnn. Stem. Phutak. Dumur. Kunda. Budun. Basket. Suwat. 1 Siwat. TsamiQgh. Wargasht. Sawik. Vine. T&l. Tal. Tal. Baz. Ustd-mudun. Grape. tJzum. Uzum. Uziim. Angdr. Usta. Mulberry. tJzhma. Uzhma. Uzhma. Juzum. ^leagnus. Jigda. Jigda. Jigda. Zigda. Jujube. Chfl&n. Chilftn. Chiwkhih. Apple. Mmk. AlmL TVfAn. Mdr. Almfn. Pear. Armut. Amut. Armdt. Nashwdtf Quince. Biya. Biya. . Peach. ShaptaL Shaft<i. ShaptaL Plum. Uruk. Arik. Ehub4ni. Umk. Apricot. 6lja. N68h. Pomegranate. Anar. An&r. Andr. Almond. Bad£m. Yangak. B6dam. Yanghak. B&d&m. Ghawz. B&d&m. B&ddm. Walnut. Yang^. Fig. Anjlr. Anjfr. Thorn. Tikan. Shuz. Zakh. Chighric. Bark. Cobzac. Cawzac. Capiz6k. Pist. Ehalsin. Gum. Zhilim. Yilim. Yelim. Zusun. Grass. Ot Ot. W6kh. Wnkh. Sawz. Omsun. Seed. Comush^ Chigh. Comush. Chigh. Camish. Chigh. Khamsh. ( 652 ) Birds, beasts^ , and insects. Englifih. 1 Yarkandi. Kirghiz. 8&Hgh (^1t. W4khi. Kalmac. Bird. Ctichc&ch. Cuchc&ch. T6kh6. Parinda. Shobung. Net. Tor. Tor. Tor. Ehapkhak. Noose. Kildak. Zong. KUtak. Trap. Tozak. Tozak. Eagle. Bdighiit, Cosh. Cash. Khutsdyd. Burgdt Hawk. Ldchin. L&chln. L&chfn. • Lechin. Magpie. Saghizghao. Tiger. Yolb&rs. Yolwas. Yolhdrs. Rftr. Leopard. Kapl4n. Eafl&n. Molun. Wolf. Burf. B6ri. Khfthp. Shapt. Chhona. Lynx. SiUesun. t ' Sdlesun. Fox. 1 Ti'ilkf. Raps. NakhcMr. krkd. Bear. Arik. Ayik. Yurkh. Nagharddm. Ayun. Otter. C&ma. SangUivf. Kh&ma. Antelope. Jayr&n. Kiyik. Jayr&n. Cuyosun. 1 Stag, male Bighd. Btighii. Bughd. Gdwaz. Bdghft. „ female Mar41. Mar&l. Marti. Wild goat, male Takka. Takka. Yakh. Ynksh. Ghorasun. „ female Marg. Wild sheep, male Ghu\ia. Ghu^a. Ba68. Rdsh. War. Ghdlja. „ female Virokh. M4y. Akir. Hare. T&OBhcdn Toshcdn. Khktdm. Sdyi. Tdla. Pig. Tonguz. Tonguz. Khawg. K hdg. Gh&kha. Hedgehog. Khirp&. Ehiarpf. Zara. Fish. Balic. Batic. M&hf. M&hi. Yaghsin. Trades and implements. Carpenter. Yagh&chcm. Chdbtar&sh. Ust&z. Modanchi. Hammer. BolkL Bulka. Bnlka. Kheyash. Polkha. Adze. Cay4ki. Wazhak. (Jzb4k. OHh. ( 653 ) English. YarkaadL Kirghiz. S4righ Oiilf. W&khi. Ealm&c. Chisel. Calam. Nal.kh4n. Calam. Saw. Ara. Ar&. mrih. Plane. Banda. Banda. Awl. fTshlri. Uchka. Bamuu Barma. Ushka. Nail. Mekh. Mekh. Makh. Mf^kh. K^zak. Wedge. P&na. F&na. Ph&na. File. Soh/ln. Ekak. Akak. Curch. Forceps. Amhdr. Amhdr. Ambdr. Amb „ care, hare. aw„ 99 as ott in house. ay „ M ,9 day. 4w„ 99 the same prolonged. ay „ » „ aye, aisle. t ,9 99 hard and aspirated. ^1. e „ n 99 toy, hoy. as o in cane, hale. as in tHe. 99 pin. •th„ th „ ph „ 99 99 99 hard and aspirated; each letter pronounced separately. as in those. aspirated, and each letter separately pronounced. i „ If as ^ in teeth. tkh„ 99 ditto. ditto. 0 „ >» as in top. C ,9 99 always hard as in cart. 6 „ 4 M „ told. zh „ 99 as j in ^^jour." • • 0 „ 99 „ "oMtf." • * NoTB. — This double letter is only in the Yarkandi column, t Note.— This double letter is mostly in the KalmAc column. (Sd.) H. W. Bellev. VOCABUIjARY OF SIRIKOL, WAKHAN, AND KUNJOOT DIALECTS, BT CAPTAIN J. BIDDULPH. The following Vocabulary was compiled during our trip to Sirikol and .Wakhan. The spelling is phonetic. The Sirikolee and Wakhee, however, contain sounds which it is impossible to render exactly in English, and much resembling sounds common in Gaelic. Sirikolee, IVakhee. Kunjootee. Ap^le. Maun. More. • Arm. Taran, Cheraat. Fekh, Yurnm. Ushok. Armpit. Eultok. KuU. Akiit AjBcent Dyoon. Ven. * Atmt (paternal). Dodeh. Bach. Aunt (maternal). Mana-Yerdeli. Wach. All. Fnknt. Tukkheh. Again. Woz deeger. Tserong gokh. Alwaji. Harwar. Abb. Sher. Koor. Air. Awoo. Animal. Jandar. Afraid. Khooj dared. Bannch. Alone. Tokha. ( 663 ) SirihoUe. IVahhee. Kunjootee. Back. Dom. • Dam. Ashtan. Barley. Chnsht. Yarok. Beard. Boon. Biggish. Ungi. BeUy. Kecheh. Vird. Ool. Black Pepper. Tor mirich. Blue. Knsheen. NeeU Boat. GhekHt. Eishti. Bread. Ehishpick, Shpeek. "Khat^^h. Breast. T«g. Bapp. Amamot. 4 Brick. Krich. Khisht. Bride. 24innn]l. Bridge. Kupprick. Bukhoord. Bridle. Wuzdun Widoon. Akhoon. Brother-in-law. Shnserez. Khiserez. Bnll. Chut khcg. Batter. Zord-i-on. Bown. Bogh. Brother and sister. Takh wordeh. But. Ehair. Because. Hntka. • Brother. Vnrood. Voroot Boy. Zikat. . Body. KechkaL Tastch. Bullock. Chat. Chat. Bird. Bownhtom. Kappch. Beak. Minkol. Gash. Bone. Tahch. Branch. Bhakh. Boot. Pekh. Blind. Koor. ^ Bad. Jeet. Shakk. 1 Broad. Kshoot. ( 564 ) Sirikolee, Wakhee. JSjuf^ootee. Calf of leg. Soon. Barun. Canal. Warch. Datch. Cap. Qhoza, Dopee» Tumakh. Ascape. Cheek. Peeza. Bohi. Amookush. Chest. Puz. Poshher. XJndeL Chin. Zina goon. Zinnakh. Asun. Cloth. Gleem. Pallas. Comh. Dolee. Kungoo. Uphoonun. Cooldngpot. Dyegh. Cow. Yoh. Cup. Chinak. Child. Ghada. TMbo. Gond. Yarm. Woor. Copper. Miss. Chair. Koorsee. » Clothing. Leel. Cave. Jeerhoon. Com. Zan. dean. Pokuza. Pokuza. Cold. Ish. Sur. Daughter. Bezeen. Zinnal. Thurght. DoBt. Seet. Shit. Day. Mass. Bokhun. Dog. ' Kiit. Shach. « Deaf. Chun. Eju*. i Dirty. Nopuk. Gajt. Difficult. Kilar. Dry. Kishta. Ear. 01, Ghowl. Gish. Altootul. Elder hrother. Lor derdo. Entrails. Roda. Shungur. Geekun. Ewe. Mawul. - ( 565 ) Sirikolee. Wdkkee. Kwi^'ootee. Eye. Cheem, sem. Eizm. Alcheen. Eyebrow. Warooh. Warooh. Altanaser. Eyelash. Posntch. Teppnk. Amolpol. Each. Wiifuth. Everywhere. Haijoi. Komjairech. EyerythiBg. Chaisvid. Evening. Shmn. • Shoom. East. Mnshrikh. Earth. Zimad. Zamin. Egg. Burza. Face. Tukkool, Pace. Bui. Asknll. Father. Dood. Tat Father-in-law. £hnsoor. Khars. Felt. Jane. Ajane. Finger. Anzekht. Jigl or Jyigl, Tangl. Amia nusser. finger-nail. Tossoor, Kashowr. Digger. Uria Nnsser. File. . Yur, Toots. Bokknigh. Flock of sheep. Ohio. Alis. Foot Forehead. Peza, Peyr. Bnkk. Poda. Bnkk. HyaU. Far. Thar. Thir. From. TJz. Feather. Knnnaut Pur. Fish. Mooee. Mahi. Food. Kngom. Flonr. Yogj. Tnmch. Flower. • Gnl. Spriig. Foolish. AkmaL Full. Takhi. Fatigued. Womgneh. Qoat. Waz^Yas. Togh. Grand&ther. Bap. Pope. bl5 ( 666 ) Grandmoiher. GrancLaon. Grape. Grass. Green. Girl. Gold. Grave. Great. Good. Hair. Hand. Head. Heart. Herd of cattle. Horse. House. Husband. How. How much. How many. Half. Hour. Hoof. Horn. Hill. Helmet. Hot. Hard. Hungry. Heavy. High. Sirikolee. Mam. Naboose. Azom. • Dokh, Woohf. Soz. OSlla. Gk>ur. LOWT. Charj. Kusbut. Shad. Yist, Zeest^ Thust. Eol. Zardeb. 2!iord. Cbut. Voorcb. Cbeed. Sbowr. Tserang. Dum. Sum. Sbokb. Taicb. Dabulgab. Jurm. Wahhee, Angoor. Soz. Zikat. Tilk. Loop. Buflf. Sbuffsb. Tbust. Sir. Pasyoo. Tasb. Kboon. Tserunga vitteb. Tsum. Tsumteb. Tom. Cbut. Sbayob. Eob. Sbundr. Sbukk. Murz. Gorung. Loop. Kunjootee. Arin. Guppal. Us. ( 567 ) Sirikolee. IVakhee. Kunjootecm Iron tripod. Kurwur. Immediately. Sheech dum. Aniy dum. In. Divoir. Iron. Speen. Yisht. Kidney. Aroora. Wultuk. Asamoz. Knee. Zeddun, Zoon. Bareen, Birin. Adoomuss. Knife. Oharg. Kurqj. King. Pofihow. Leather. Pershyoo, Farshan. Girdagee. Leg. Pehmush, Lung. Poty eshutoh. Geltun. Lip. Lucee, Pauz. Luceetch, Lufich. He. Little finger. Nameel umush. Liyer. Sod. Jiger. Egin. Lucerne grass. Bnda. Limgs. Sowel. Shoosh. Akhur poot. Lightning. Tundoorg thid. Lead. • Koorgushum. Lance. Neza. Neza. Lake. Kol. Leaf of a tree. Park. Long. Durc^. Vurz. Light. Banjk. Low. Pust. Mare. Varzeh. • Meat. Gekhat. Gusht. Melon. Kogun. Kurhooza. Middle finger. Mukooching, Amia russer. Milk. Kushyood, Shivd. Jurj. JAother. Moda, Anor. Nan. Mother-in-law. Khushukh. Khush. Mountain. Tej. Koh. Moustache. Bint. Buroot. Sullut ( 568 ) Sirikolee, Wakhw, Kimjootee. Month. Ghof. Ghosh. Bnkhat. Mud. Ghnt. lip. Many. Ghnllaba par. Tokkheh. Moon. Most Jumakh. horning. Elheyr-mothoor. Suba. Month. Most. Man. Choorik, Cherin. Thai. Mad. Ealnndur. Navel. Wunookh. Naf. Asooee. Neck. G^rdana. Ush. Nose. Nanz. Mim. ; Amooposhi. Nostril. Nanz def . Miss Bird. Amoltor. Now. Sheech. Aniv. ■ None. Bekoor heoh. Hechiz. Near. Nizd. Drimoseh. No. Nai. Never. Nay. Night Shob. Naghd. North. Shimmal. Narrow. Tong. On. Toos. Ont of. Vatch. Other. Deeger. Open. • Gnsh hut. Palate. Tez iLiirm. Kurm. TnU. Pnpil of eye. Chingazik. Ohismuk. Nanna. Pear. Narshbat. P«tience. Warofe.. Bam. ^ Bed Pepper. Eizzil Mirich. Bice. Girii^. Biver. Durya. Dnryai — « ( 569 ) Sirikolee. Wakhee. JSunjooiee. Road. Poonda. Dook. Bain. Wuraij zood. Saddle. Siran, Jeel. Poshmn. Salt. Ghazitch. Shoe. Kuffak. Kuffsh. Side. Hullah. Paiioo. Apateen. Sister. Yakh. Khooee. Sister-in-law. Khyoon. Sole of foot. Tulla Peza. Knff. Alls bar. Son. Poora. Puts. Putr. Son-in-law. Damood. Spoon. Kumach. Spoon, small. Cheb. Stone. Jehr. Gehr, Ghar. • Sweat. Khyud. Arak. Snn. Kheyr. Yfr. Star. Khutoorch. Sittar. Sonth. Janoob. Servant. Noknr. Nokor. Slave. Indeech. Gholam. Sheep. Knlloh. TCnllah. Sky. Usmun. Osman. Silver. Nokra. Nokra. Sugar. Shiikkr. * Soap. Zord. # Sword. Mithj. Eingar. Sword, straight. Kinjar. Shield. Sipar. Shade. Suyah. - Sand. Shoosh. Small. Zilikeek. Chklai. Sweet Khosk. ftl6 ( 570 ) SirikoUe. Wdkhee, Kunjootee, Short. Kut. Kurt. Soft. Shillot. Shut. Yandt. ' Strong. Taiyar. Snow. Zumoon . ■ Tent. Chowdyr. Chowdyr. Thumb. Lahoob nmush. Tongue. Ziou. Ziuck. OwmnsHee. Tooth. Thundoon. Dandook. Ameh. Town. Khashar. Shahr. Tree. Dutoj, Nawul. Derakht. Thi». Yam. Eeom. That. Yoo. Yekhnll. There. Urn. Derah. Then. Thorn. Dera wnkht. To. Hupa. To-day. Noor. Woothk. Dodakrich. , 1 * To-morrow. Fal. Tortur. Toe. Punja. Thunder. Waraij. Table. Wambone. Sundalee. TaU. Thum. Thirsty. Takumsith. % Thigh. Shoonj. ■ Uncle. Zul dodeh. Under. Yidzin. Pu86t. Valley. Daroo. Kubroo. YiUage. Dyoor. Dyar. Yeniflon. Gosag. Water. Khesr, Schatz. Yupk. - Wheat. Arund kum. Ghnddem. White. Suppeed. Sukhnd. ( 571 ) Siriholee. Wakhee, ^w^ootee. Wife. Ghin. • Kinnat. Wood. Khishung, Jeex. Gnz. What? Chais. Chiz. Who? Ohedoom. Knmkalk. Where? Kojaso. Kmnrut. When? Chedoom wukt. Tserung. Why? Chaisir. Tsemnga. West. Mnghrih. Woman. Abmt • Kund. 1 Wing. Kunnaut. Wind. Shamul. Dumah. Wine. Mai. • Wise. Hnkl. N Wet. Hoshtch. Yellow. Zurd. Znrd. Younger brother. Ziznl derdo. Yes. Hoi-Hoi. Yesterday. Pig4n. Verokh. Year. Sool. Sala. Yonng. Shugd. SIRIEOLEE SENTENCES. I will strike him. Come here. Go away. What do yon want ? I am not able to do this. What is yonr name P Whence do yon oome ? Where are you going? How old are yon?- Who is that (man) ? It is a hot day. Is this yonr horse P Atadaynm. Owd yoth. Tedth. Cha is kan. Natch kanam. Ta noom saiz. Uz kot yot Eoj nsoh. Tsnnd snla yetsoot Yoo choi. Noor joorm. Yam Yoorch taiya noh. ( 572 ) SIRIE^OLEE SENTENCES.-(Ume2tf This-at-haroi. Thus taroi. Turmoh usko. Fourteen. This-at-savoor. Thus tsavoor. Tormoh waltoh. Fifteen. ThiR-at-pinj. Thus pans. Tormoh sinsowur. Sixteen. This-at-khel. Thus shutt Tormoh Mushnudwur. Seventeen. This-at-nvd. Thus hiih. Tormoh talwah. • Eighteen. This-at-wohft. Thus hut Tormoh altamor. Nineteen. This-at-naen. Thus now. Tormoh unchoor. Twenty. Wist. Bist Altor. Thirty. See. See. Altor tormoh. Forty. Chal. Ohil. Altoh-altor. Fifty. Pinjoo. Puiga. A 1 toh-altor-normoh. Sixty. Oltmish* Shust. Isld-altor. Seventy. Tetmish. Huftad. Walta-altor-tormoh. Eighty. Sechsan. Hushtad. Altmya-altor. I^ety. Sechsan-at-thiB. Nowad. Uncha-altor-tormoh. Ninety-one. • Sechsan-at-this-at-ee. Nowad yeoo. One hundred. Sad. Sud. Teh. One thousand. Hozoor. Huzar. Huzar. J17 < ^ ^ -v«v^- I \ THE NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY KBPBRBNGB DBPARTtfBNT This book is uader n# oiroamstanoes to h€ taken from the Build lint 1 « 1 i 1 ( — ■ 1 1 1 1 1 ■ 1 1 1 1 1 i 1 1 1 i * m 1 1 1 < i 1 ■ ■ 1 f 1 f 1 1 1 form «M ( i I I I I .i R'O SEP 15 1915 r 1 t 9